Theconversationturneduponscientificmatters,andM。
  Fridrikssonaskedmyunclewhathethoughtofthepubliclibrary。
  "Library,sir?"criedmyuncle;"itappearstomeacollectionofuselessoddvolumes,andabeggarlyamountofemptyshelves。"
  "What!"criedM。Fridriksson;"why,wehaveeightthousandvolumesofmostrareandvaluableworks-someintheScandinavianlanguage,besidesallthenewpublicationsfromCopenhagen。"
  "Eightthousandvolumes,mydearsir-why,wherearethey?"criedmyuncle。
  "Scatteredoverthecountry,ProfessorHardwigg。Weareverystudious,mydearsir,thoughwedoliveinIceland。Everyfarmer,everylaborer,everyfishermancanbothreadandwrite-andwethinkthatbooksinsteadofbeinglockedupincupboards,farfromthesightofstudents,shouldbedistributedaswidelyaspossible。Thebooksofourlibraryarethereforepassedfromhandtohandwithoutreturningtothelibraryshelvesperhapsforyears。"
  "Thenwhenforeignersvisityou,thereisnothingforthemtosee?"
  "Well,"sir,foreignershavetheirownlibraries,andourfirstconsiderationis,thatourhumblerclassesshouldbehighlyeducated。Fortunately,theloveofstudyisinnateintheIcelandicpeople。In1816wefoundedaLiterarySocietyandMechanics'
  Institute;manyforeignscholarsofeminencearehonorarymembers;
  wepublishbooksdestinedtoeducateourpeople,andthesebookshaverenderedvaluableservicestoourcountry。Allowmetohavethehonor,ProfessorHardwigg,toenrollyouasanhonorarymember?"
  Myuncle,whoalreadybelongedtonearlyeveryliteraryandscientificinstitutioninEurope,immediatelyyieldedtotheamiablewishesofgoodM。Fridriksson。
  "Andnow,"hesaid,aftermanyexpressionsofgratitudeandgoodwill,"ifyouwilltellmewhatbooksyouexpectedtofind,perhapsImaybeofsomeassistancetoyou。"
  Iwatchedmyunclekeenly。Foraminuteortwohehesitated,asifunwillingtospeak;tospeakopenlywas,perhaps,tounveilhisprojects。Nevertheless,aftersomereflection,hemadeuphismind。
  "Well,"M。Fridriksson,"hesaidinaneasy,unconcernedkindofway,"Iwasdesirousofascertaining,ifamongothervaluableworks,youhadanyofthelearnedArneSaknussemm。"
  "ArneSaknussemm!"criedtheProfessorofReykjavik;"youspeakofoneofthemostdistinguishedscholarsofthesixteenthcentury,ofthegreatnaturalist,thegreatalchemist,thegreattraveler。"
  "Exactlyso。"
  "OneofthemostdistinguishedmenconnectedwithIcelandicscienceandliterature。"
  "Asyousay,sir-"
  "Amanillustriousaboveall。"
  "Yes,sir,allthisistrue,buthisworks?"
  "Wehavenoneofthem。"
  "NotinIceland?"
  "TherearenoneinIcelandorelsewhere,"answeredtheother,sadly。
  "Whyso?"
  "BecauseArneSaknussemmwaspersecutedforheresy,andin1573
  hisworkswerepubliclyburntatCopenhagen,bythehandsofthecommonhangman。"
  "Verygood!capital!"murmuredmyuncle,tothegreatastonishmentoftheworthyIcelander。
  "Yousaid,sir-"
  "Yes,yes,allisclear,Iseethelinkinthechain;everythingisexplained,andInowunderstandwhyArneSaknussemm,putoutofcourt,forcedtohidehismagnificentdiscoveries,wascompelledtoconcealbeneaththeveilofanincomprehensiblecryptograph,thesecret-"
  "Whatsecret?"
  "Asecret-which,"stammeredmyuncle。
  "Haveyoudiscoveredsomewonderfulmanuscript?"criedM。
  Fridriksson。
  "No!no,Iwascarriedawaybymyenthusiasm。Ameresupposition。"
  "Verygood,sir。But,really,toturntoanothersubject,Ihopeyouwillnotleaveourislandwithoutexaminingintoitsmineralogicalriches。"
  "Well,"thefactis,Iamratherlate。Somanylearnedmenhavebeenherebeforeme。"
  "Yes,yes,butthereisstillmuchtobedone,"criedM。
  Fridriksson。
  "Youthinkso,"saidmyuncle,hiseyestwinklingwithhiddensatisfaction。
  "Yes,youhavenoideahowmanyunknownmountains,glaciers,volcanoestherearewhichremaintobestudied。Withoutmovingfromwherewesit,Icanshowyouone。Yonderontheedgeofthehorizon,youseeSneffels。"
  "Ohyes,Sneffels,"saidmyuncle。
  "Oneofthemostcuriousvolcanoesinexistence,thecraterofwhichhasbeenrarelyvisited。"
  "Extinct?"
  "Extinct,anytimethesefivehundredyears,"wasthereadyreply。
  "Well,"saidmyuncle,whodughisnailsintohisflesh,andpressedhiskneestightlytogethertopreventhimselfleapingupwithjoy。
  "IhaveagreatmindtobeginmystudieswithanexaminationofthegeologicalmysteriesofthisMountSeffel-Feisel-whatdoyoucallit?"
  "Sneffels,mydearsir。"
  ThisportionoftheconversationtookplaceinLatin,andI
  thereforeunderstoodallthathadbeensaid。IcouldscarcelykeepmycountenancewhenIfoundmyunclesocunninglyconcealinghisdelightandsatisfaction。Imustconfessthathisartfulgrimaces,putontoconcealhishappiness,madehimlooklikeanewMephistopheles。
  "Yes,yes,"hecontinued,"yourpropositiondelightsme。IwillendeavortoclimbtothesummitofSneffels,and,ifpossible,willdescendintoitscrater。"
  "Iverymuchregret,"continuedM。Fridriksson,"thatmyoccupationwillentirelyprecludethepossibilityofmyaccompanyingyou。ItwouldhavebeenbothpleasurableandprofitableifIcouldhavesparedthetime。"
  "No,no,athousandtimesno,"criedmyuncle。"Idonotwishtodisturbtheserenityofanyman。Ithankyou,however,withallmyheart。Thepresenceofonesolearnedasyourself,wouldnodoubthavebeenmostuseful,butthedutiesofyourofficeandprofessionbeforeeverything。"
  Intheinnocenceofhissimpleheart,ourhostdidnotperceivetheironyoftheseremarks。
  "Ientirelyapproveyourproject,"continuedtheIcelanderaftersomefurtherremarks。"Itisagoodideatobeginbyexaminingthisvolcano。Youwillmakeaharvestofcuriousobservations。Inthefirstplace,howdoyouproposetogettoSneffels?"
  "Bysea。Ishallcrossthebay。Ofcoursethatisthemostrapidroute。"
  "Ofcourse。Butstillitcannotbedone。"
  "Why?"
  "WehavenotanavailableboatinallReykjavik,"repliedtheother。
  "Whatistobedone?"
  "Youmustgobylandalongthecoast。Itislonger,butmuchmoreinteresting。"
  "ThenImusthaveaguide。"
  "Ofcourse;andIhaveyourveryman。"
  "SomebodyonwhomIcandepend。"
  "Yes,aninhabitantofthepeninsulaonwhichSneffelsissituated。Heisaveryshrewdandworthyman,withwhomyouwillbepleased。HespeaksDanishlikeaDane。"
  "WhencanIseehim-today?"
  "No,tomorrow;hewillnotbeherebefore。"
  "Tomorrowbeit,"repliedmyuncle,withadeepsigh。
  Theconversationendedbycomplimentsonbothsides。DuringthedinnermyunclehadlearnedmuchastothehistoryofArneSaknussemm,thereasonsforhismysteriousandhieroglyphicaldocument。Healsobecameawarethathishostwouldnotaccompanyhimonhisadventurousexpedition,andthatnextdayweshouldhaveaguide。
  CHAPTER8
  OffatLastTHATeveningItookabriefwalkontheshorenearReykjavik,afterwhichIreturnedtoanearlysleeponmybedofcoarseplanks,whereIsleptthesleepofthejust。WhenIawokeIheardmyunclespeakingloudlyinthenextroom。Irosehastilyandjoinedhim。HewastalkinginDanishwithamanoftallstature,andofperfectlyHerculeanbuild。Thismanappearedtobepossessedofverygreatstrength。Hiseyes,whichstartedratherprominentlyfromaverylargehead,thefacebelongingtowhichwassimpleandnaive,appearedveryquickandintelligent。Verylonghair,whicheveninEnglandwouldhavebeenaccountedexceedinglyred,felloverhisathleticshoulders。ThisnativeofIcelandwasactiveandsuppleinappearance,thoughhescarcelymovedhisarms,beinginfactoneofthosemenwhodespisethehabitofgesticulationcommontosouthernpeople。
  Everythinginthisman'smannerrevealedacalmandphlegmatictemperament。Therewasnothingindolentabouthim,buthisappearancespokeoftranquillity。Hewasoneofthosewhoneverseemedtoexpectanythingfromanybody,wholikedtoworkwhenhethoughtproper,andwhosephilosophynothingcouldastonishortrouble。
  Ibegantocomprehendhischaracter,simplyfromthewayinwhichhelistenedtothewildandimpassionedverbiageofmyworthyuncle。
  WhiletheexcellentProfessorspokesentenceaftersentence,hestoodwithfoldedarms,utterlystill,motionlesstoallmyuncle'sgesticulations。WhenhewantedtosayNohemovedhisheadfromlefttoright;whenheacquiescedhenodded,soslightlythatyoucouldscarcelyseetheundulationofhishead。Thiseconomyofmotionwascarriedtothelengthofavarice。
  JudgingfromhisappearanceIshouldhavebeenalongtimebeforeIhadsuspectedhimtobewhathewas,amightyhunter。Certainlyhismannerwasnotlikelytofrightenthegame。How,then,didhecontrivetogetathisprey?
  MysurprisewasslightlymodifiedwhenIknewthatthistranquilandsolemnpersonagewasonlyahunteroftheeiderduck,thedownofwhichis,afterall,thegreatestsourceoftheIcelanders'wealth。
  Intheearlydaysofsummer,thefemaleoftheeider,aprettysortofduck,buildsitsnestamidtherocksofthefjords-thenamegiventoallnarrowgulfsinScandinaviancountries-withwhicheverypartoftheislandisindented。Nosoonerhastheeiderduckmadehernestthanshelinestheinsideofitwiththesoftestdownfromherbreast。Thencomesthehunterortrader,takingawaythenest,thepoorbereavedfemalebeginshertaskoveragain,andthiscontinuesaslongasanyeiderdownistobefound。
  Whenshecanfindnomorethemalebirdsetstoworktoseewhathecando。As,however,hisdownisnotsosoft,andhasthereforenocommercialvalue,thehunterdoesnottakethetroubletorobhimofhisnestlining。Thenestisaccordinglyfinished,theeggsarelaid,thelittleonesareborn,andnextyeartheharvestofeiderdownisagaincollected。
  Now,astheeiderduckneverselectssteeprocksoraspectstobuilditsnest,butratherslopingandlowcliffsneartothesea,theIcelandichuntercancarryonhistradeoperationswithoutmuchdifficulty。Heislikeafarmerwhohasneithertoplow,tosow,nortoharrow,onlytocollecthisharvest。
  Thisgrave,sententious,silentperson,asphlegmaticasanEnglishmanontheFrenchstage,wasnamedHansBjelke。HehadcalleduponusinconsequenceoftherecommendationofM。Fridriksson。Hewas,infact,ourfutureguide。ItstruckmethathadIsoughttheworldover,Icouldnothavefoundagreatercontradictiontomyimpulsiveuncle。
  They,however,readilyunderstoodoneanother。Neitherofthemhadanythoughtaboutmoney;onewasreadytotakeallthatwasofferedhim,theotherreadytoofferanythingthatwasasked。Itmayreadilybeconceived,then,thatanunderstandingwassooncometobetweenthem。
  Now,theunderstandingwas,thathewastotakeustothevillageofStapi,situatedonthesouthernslopeofthepeninsulaofSneffels,attheveryfootofthevolcano。Hans,theguide,toldusthedistancewasabouttwenty-twomiles,ajourneywhichmyunclesupposedwouldtakeabouttwodays。
  ButwhenmyunclecametounderstandthattheywereDanishmiles,ofeightthousandyardseach,hewasobligedtobemoremoderateinhisideas,and,consideringthehorribleroadswehadtofollow,toalloweightortendaysforthejourney。
  Fourhorseswerepreparedforus,twotocarrythebaggage,andtwotobeartheimportantweightofmyselfanduncle。Hansdeclaredthatnothingeverwouldmakehimclimbonthebackofanyanimal。Hekneweveryinchofthatpartofthecoast,andpromisedtotakeustheveryshortestway。
  HisengagementwithmyunclewasbynomeanstoceasewithourarrivalatStapi;hewasfurthertoremaininhisserviceduringthewholetimerequiredforthecompletionofhisscientificinvestigations,atthefixedsalaryofthreerix-dollarsaweek,beingexactlyfourteenshillingsandtwopence,minusonefarthing,Englishcurrency。Onestipulation,however,wasmadebytheguide-themoneywastobepaidtohimeverySaturdaynight,failingwhich,hisengagementwasatanend。
  Thedayofourdeparturewasfixed。Myunclewishedtohandtheeider-downhunteranadvance,butherefusedinoneemphaticword-
  "Efter。"
  WhichbeingtranslatedfromIcelandicintoplainEnglishmeans-
  "After。"
  Thetreatyconcluded,ourworthyguideretiredwithoutanotherword。
  "Asplendidfellow,"saidmyuncle;"onlyhelittlesuspectsthemarvelouspartheisabouttoplayinthehistoryoftheworld。"
  "Youmean,then,"Icriedinamazement,"thatheshouldaccompanyus?"
  "Totheinterioroftheearth,yes,"repliedmyuncle。"Whynot?"
  Therewereyetforty-eighthourstoelapsebeforewemadeourfinalstart。Tomygreatregret,ourwholetimewastakenupinmakingpreparationsforourjourney。Allourindustryandabilityweredevotedtopackingeveryobjectinthemostadvantageousmanner-theinstrumentsononeside,thearmsontheother,thetoolshereandtheprovisionsthere。Therewere,infact,fourdistinctgroups。
  Theinstrumentswereofcourseofthebestmanufacture:
  1。AcentigradethermometerofEigel,countingupto150degrees,whichtomedidnotappearhalfenough-ortoomuch。Toohotbyhalf,ifthedegreeofheatwastoascendsohigh-inwhichcaseweshouldcertainlybecooked-notenough,ifwewantedtoascertaintheexacttemperatureofspringsormetalinastateoffusion。
  2。Amanometerworkedbycompressedair,aninstrumentusedtoascertaintheupperatmosphericpressureontheleveloftheocean。
  Perhapsacommonbarometerwouldnothavedoneaswell,theatmosphericpressurebeinglikelytoincreaseinproportionaswedescendedbelowthesurfaceoftheearth。
  3。Afirst-classchronometermadebyBoissonnas,ofGeneva,setatthemeridianofHamburg,fromwhichGermanscalculate,astheEnglishdofromGreenwich,andtheFrenchfromParis。
  4。Twocompasses,oneforhorizontalguidance,theothertoascertainthedip。
  5。Anightglass。
  6。TwoRuhmkorffcoils,which,bymeansofacurrentofelectricity,wouldensureusaveryexcellent,easilycarried,andcertainmeansofobtaininglight。*
  *TheRuhmkorffcoilisusedtoobtaincurrentsofinducedelectricityofgreatintensity。Itconsistsofacoilofcopperwire,insulatedbybeingcoveredwithsilk,surroundedbyanothercoiloffinewire,alsoinsulated,inwhichamomentarycurrentisinducedwhenacurrentispassedthroughtheinnercoilfromavoltaicbattery。Whentheapparatusisinaction,thegasbecomesluminous,andproducesawhiteandcontinuedlight。Thebatteryandwirearecarriedinaleatherbag,whichthetravelerfastensbyastraptohisshoulders。Thelanternisinfront,andenablesthebenightedwanderertoseeinthemostprofoundobscurity。Hemayventurewithoutfearofexplosionintothemidstofthemostinflammablegases,andthelanternwillburnbeneaththedeepestwaters。H。D。Ruhmkorff,anableandlearnedchemist,discoveredtheinductioncoil。In1864hewonthequinquennialFrenchprizeofL2,000forthisingeniousapplicationofelectricity。Avoltaicbattery,socalledfromVolta,itsdesigned,isanapparatusconsistingofaseriesofmetalplatesarrangedinpairsandsubjectedtotheactionofsalinesolutionsforproducingcurrentsofelectricity。
  7。Avoltaicbatteryonthenewestprinciple。
  Ourarmsconsistedoftworifles,withtworevolvingsix-shooters。
  Whythesearmswereprovideditwasimpossibleformetosay。Ihadeveryreasontobelievethatwehadneitherwildbeastsnorsavagenativestofear。Myuncle,ontheotherhand,wasquiteasdevotedtohisarsenalastohiscollectionofinstruments,andaboveallwasverycarefulwithhisprovisionoffulminatingorguncotton,warrantedtokeepinanyclimate,andofwhichtheexpansiveforcewasknowntobegreaterthanthatofordinarygunpowder。
  Ourtoolsconsistedoftwopickaxes,twocrowbars,asilkenladder,threeiron-shodAlpinepoles,ahatchet,ahammer,adozenwedges,somepointedpiecesofiron,andaquantityofstrongrope。
  Youmayconceivethatthewholemadeatolerableparcel,especiallywhenImentionthattheladderitselfwasthreehundredfeetlong!
  Thentherecametheimportantquestionofprovisions。Thehamperwasnotverylargebuttolerablysatisfactory,forIknewthatinconcentratedessenceofmeatandbiscuittherewasenoughtolastsixmonths。TheonlyliquidprovidedbymyunclewasSchiedam。Ofwater,notadrop。Wehad,however,anamplesupplyofgourds,andmyunclecountedonfindingwater,andenoughtofillthem,assoonaswecommencedourdownwardjourney。Myremarksastothetemperature,thequality,andevenastothepossibilityofnonebeingfound,remainedwhollywithouteffect。
  Tomakeuptheexactlistofourtravelinggear-fortheguidanceoffuturetravelers-add,thatwecarriedamedicineandsurgicalchestwithallapparatusnecessaryforwounds,fracturesandblows;lint,scissors,lancets-infact,aperfectcollectionofhorriblelookinginstruments;anumberofvialscontainingammonia,alcohol,ether,Goulardwater,aromaticvinegar,infact,everypossibleandimpossibledrug-finally,allthematerialsforworkingtheRuhmkorffcoil!
  Myunclehadalsobeencarefultolayinagoodlysupplyoftobacco,severalflasksofveryfinegunpowder,boxesoftinder,besidesalargebeltcrammedfullofnotesandgold。Goodbootsrenderedwatertightweretobefoundtothenumberofsixinthetoolbox。
  "Myboy,withsuchclothing,withsuchboots,andsuchgeneralequipment,"saidmyuncle,inastateofrapturousdelight,"wemayhopetotravelfar。"
  Ittookawholedaytoputallthesemattersinorder。IntheeveningwedinedwithBaronTrampe,incompanywiththeMayorofReykjavik,andDoctorHyaltalin,thegreatmedicalmanofIceland。
  M。Fridrikssonwasnotpresent,andIwasafterwardssorrytohearthatheandthegovernordidnotagreeonsomemattersconnectedwiththeadministrationoftheisland。Unfortunately,theconsequencewas,thatIdidnotunderstandawordthatwassaidatdinner-akindofsemiofficialreception。OnethingIcansay,myuncleneverleftoffspeaking。
  Thenextdayourlaborcametoanend。Ourworthyhostdelightedmyuncle,ProfessorHardwigg,bygivinghimagoodmapofIceland,amostimportantandpreciousdocumentforamineralogist。
  OurlasteveningwasspentinalongconversationwithM。
  Fridriksson,whomIlikedverymuch-themorethatIneverexpectedtoseehimoranyoneelseagain。Afterthisagreeablewayofspendinganhourorso,Itriedtosleep。Invain;withtheexceptionofafewdozes,mynightwasmiserable。
  Atfiveo'clockinthemorningIwasawakenedfromtheonlyrealhalfhour'ssleepofthenightbytheloudneighingofhorsesundermywindow。Ihastilydressedmyselfandwentdownintothestreet。Hanswasengagedinputtingthefinishingstroketoourbaggage,whichhedidinasilent,quietwaythatwonmyadmiration,andyethediditadmirablywell。Myunclewastedagreatdealofbreathingivinghimdirections,butworthyHanstooknottheslightestnoticeofhiswords。
  Atsixo'clockallourpreparationswerecompleted,andM。
  Fridrikssonshookhandsheartilywithus。Myunclethankedhimwarmly,intheIcelandiclanguage,forhiskindhospitality,speakingtrulyfromtheheart。
  AsformyselfIputtogetherafewofmybestLatinphrasesandpaidhimthehighestcomplimentsIcould。Thisfraternalandfriendlydutyperformed,wesalliedforthandmountedourhorses。
  Assoonaswewerequiteready,M。Fridrikssonadvanced,andbywayoffarewell,calledaftermeinthewordsofVirgil-wordswhichappearedtohavebeenmadeforus,travelersstartingforanuncertaindestination:
  "Etquacunqueviamdederitfortunasequamur。"
  "Andwhichsoeverwaythougoest,mayfortunefollow!"
  CHAPTER9
  WeMeetwithadventuresTHEweatherwasovercastbutsettled,whenwecommencedouradventurousandperilousjourney。Wehadneithertofearfatiguingheatnordrenchingrain。Itwas,infact,realtouristweather。
  AstherewasnothingIlikedbetterthanhorseexercise,thepleasureofridingthroughanunknowncountrycausedtheearlypartofourenterprisetobeparticularlyagreeabletome。
  Ibegantoenjoytheexhilaratingdelightoftraveling,alifeofdesire,gratificationandliberty。Thetruthis,thatmyspiritsrosesorapidly,thatIbegantobeindifferenttowhathadonceappearedtobeaterriblejourney。
  "Afterall,"Isaidtomyself,"whatdoIrisk?Simplytotakeajourneythroughacuriouscountry,toclimbaremarkablemountain,andiftheworstcomestotheworst,todescendintothecraterofanextinctvolcano。"
  TherecouldbenodoubtthatthiswasallthisterribleSaknussemmhaddone。Astotheexistenceofagallery,orofsubterraneouspassagesleadingintotheinterioroftheearth,theideawassimplyabsurd,thehallucinationofadistemperedimagination。All,then,thatmayberequiredofmeIwilldocheerfully,andwillcreatenodifficulty。
  ItwasjustbeforeweleftReykjavikthatIcametothisdecision。
  Hans,ourextraordinaryguide,wentfirst,walkingwithasteady,rapid,unvaryingstep。Ourtwohorseswiththeluggagefollowedoftheirownaccord,withoutrequiringwhiporspur。MyuncleandI
  camebehind,cuttingaverytolerablefigureuponoursmallbutvigorousanimals。
  IcelandisoneofthelargestislandsinEurope。Itcontainsthirtythousandsquaremilesofsurface,andhasaboutseventythousandinhabitants。Geographershavedivideditintofourparts,andwehadtocrossthesouthwestquarterwhichinthevernaculariscalledSudvestrFjordungr。
  Hans,ontakinghisdeparturefromReykjavik,hadfollowedthelineofthesea。Wetookourwaythroughpoorandsparsemeadows,whichmadeadesperateefforteveryyeartoshowalittlegreen。
  Theyveryrarelysucceedinagoodshowofyellow。
  Theruggedsummitsoftherockyhillsweredimlyvisibleontheedgeofthehorizon,throughthemistyfogs;everynowandthensomeheavyflakesofsnowshowedconspicuousinthemorninglight,whilecertainloftyandpointedrockswerefirstlostinthegreylowclouds,theirsummitsclearlyvisibleabove,likejaggedreefsrisingfromatroubloussea。
  Everynowandthenaspurofrockcamedownthroughthearidground,leavingusscarcelyroomtopass。Ourhorses,however,appearednotonlywellacquaintedwiththecountry,butbyakindofinstinct,knewwhichwasthebestroad。Myunclehadnoteventhesatisfactionofurgingforwardhissteedbywhip,spur,orvoice。Itwasutterlyuselesstoshowanysignsofimpatience。Icouldnothelpsmilingtoseehimlooksobigonhislittlehorse;hislonglegsnowandthentouchingthegroundmadehimlooklikeasix-footedcentaur。
  "Goodbeast,goodbeast,"hewouldcry。"Iassureyou,"Goodbeast,goodbeast,Henry,thatIbegintothinknoanimalismoreintelligentthananIcelandichorse。Snow,tempest,impracticableroads,rocks,icebergs-nothingstopshim。Heisbrave;heissober;
  heissafe;henevermakesafalsestep;neverglidesorslipsfromhispath。Idaretosaythatifanyriver,anyfjordhastobecrossed-andIhavenodoubttherewillbemany-youwillseehimenterthewaterwithouthesitationlikeanamphibiouslikeanamphibiousanimal,andreachtheoppositesideinsafety。Wemustnot,however,attempttohurryhim;wemustallowhimtohavehisownway,andIwillundertaketosaythatbetweenusweshalldoourtenleaguesaday。"
  "Wemaydoso,"wasmyreply,"butwhataboutourworthyguide?"
  "Ihavenottheslightestanxietyabouthim:thatsortofpeoplegoaheadwithoutknowingevenwhattheyareabout。LookatHans。Hemovessolittlethatitisimpossibleforhimtobecomefatigued。
  Besides,ifheweretocomplainofweariness,hecouldhavetheloanofmyhorse。IshouldhaveaviolentattackofthecrampifIwerenottohavesomesortofexercise。Myarmsareright-butmylegsaregettingalittlestiff。"
  Allthiswhilewewereadvancingatarapidpace。Thecountrywehadreachedwasalreadynearlyadesert。Hereandtherecouldbeseenanisolatedfarm,somesolitarybur,orIcelandichouse,builtofwood,earth,fragmentsoflava-lookinglikebeggarsonthehighwayoflife。
  Thesewretchedandmiserablehutsexcitedinussuchpitythatwefelthalfdisposedtoleavealmsateverydoor。Inthiscountrytherearenoroads,pathsarenearlyunknown,andvegetation,poorasitwas,slowlyasitreachedperfection,soonobliteratedalltracesofthefewtravelerswhopassedfromplacetoplace。
  Nevertheless,thisdivisionoftheprovince,situatedonlyafewmilesfromthecapital,isconsideredoneofthebestcultivatedandmostthicklypeopledinallIceland。What,then,mustbethestateofthelessknownandmoredistantpartsoftheisland?AftertravelingfullyhalfaDanishmile,wehadmetneitherafarmeratthedoorofhishut,norevenawanderingshepherdwithhiswildandsavageflock。
  Afewstraycowsandsheepwereonlyseenoccasionally。What,then,mustweexpectwhenwecometotheupheavedregions-tothedistrictsbrokenandroughenedfromvolcaniceruptionsandsubterraneouscommotions?
  Weweretolearnthisallingoodtime。Isaw,however,onconsultingthemap,thatweavoidedagooddealofthisroughcountry,byfollowingthewindinganddesolateshoresofthesea。Inreality,thegreatvolcanicmovementoftheisland,andallitsattendantphenomena,areconcentratedintheinterioroftheisland;there,horizontallayersorstrataofrocks,piledoneupontheother,eruptionsofbasalticorigin,andstreamsoflava,havegiventhiscountryakindofsupernaturalreputation。
  LittledidIexpect,however,thespectaclewhichawaiteduswhenwereachedthepeninsulaofSneffels,whereagglomerationsofnature'sruinsformakindofterriblechaos。
  SometwohoursormoreafterwehadleftthecityofReykjavik,wereachedthelittletowncalledAoalkirkja,ortheprincipalchurch。Itconsistssimplyofafewhouses-notwhatinEnglandorGermanyweshouldcallahamlet。
  Hansstoppedhereonehalfhour。Hesharedourfrugalbreakfast,answeredYes,andNotomyuncle'squestionsastothenatureoftheroad,andatlastwhenaskedwhereweweretopassthenightwasaslaconicasusual。
  "Gardar!"washisone-wordedreply。