Itookoccasiontoconsultthemap，toseewhereGardarwastobefound。AfterlookingkeenlyIfoundasmalltownofthatnameonthebordersoftheHvalfjord，aboutfourmilesfromReykjavik。Ipointedthisouttomyuncle，whomadeaveryenergeticgrimace。
"Onlyfourmilesoutoftwenty-two?Whyitisonlyalittlewalk。"
Hewasabouttomakesomeenergeticobservationtotheguide，butHans，withouttakingtheslightestnoticeofhim，wentinfrontofthehorses，andwalkedaheadwiththesameimperturbablephlegmhehadalwaysexhibited。
Threehourslater，stilltravelingoverthoseapparentlyinterminableandsandyprairies，wewerecompelledtogoroundtheKollafjord，aneasierandshortercutthancrossingthegulfs。ShortlyafterweenteredaplaceofcommunaljurisdictioncalledEjulberg，andtheclockofwhichwouldthenhavestrucktwelve，ifanyIcelandicchurchhadbeenrichenoughtopossesssovaluableandusefulanarticle。Thesesacrededificesare，however，verymuchlikethesepeople，whodowithoutwatches-andnevermissthem。
Herethehorseswereallowedtotakesomerestandrefreshment，thenfollowinganarrowstripofshorebetweenhighrocksandthesea，theytookuswithoutfurtherhalttotheAoalkirkjaofBrantar，andafteranothermiletoSaurboerAnnexia，achapelofease，situatedonthesouthernbankoftheHvalfjord。
Itwasfouro'clockintheeveningandwehadtraveledfourDanishmiles，aboutequaltotwentyEnglish。
Thefjordwasinthisplaceabouthalfamileinwidth。Thesweepingandbrokenwavescamerollinginuponthepointedrocks；thegulfwassurroundedbyrockywalls-amightycliff，threethousandfeetinheight，remarkableforitsbrownstrata，separatedhereandtherebybedsoftufaofareddishhue。Now，whatevermayhavebeentheintelligenceofourhorses，Ihadnottheslightestrelianceuponthem，asameansofcrossingastormyarmofthesea。Torideoversaltwateruponthebackofalittlehorseseemedtomeabsurd。
"Iftheyarereallyintelligent，"Isaidtomyself，"theywillcertainlynotmaketheattempt。Inanycase，Ishalltrustrathertomyownintelligencethantheirs。"
Butmyunclewasinnohumortowait。Hedughisheelsintothesidesofhissteed，andmadefortheshore。Hishorsewenttotheveryedgeofthewater，sniffedattheapproachingwaveandretreated。
Myuncle，whowas，soothtosay，quiteasobstinateasthebeasthebestrode，insistedonhismakingthedesiredadvance。Thisattemptwasfollowedbyanewrefusalonthepartofthehorsewhichquietlyshookhishead。Thisdemonstrationofrebellionwasfollowedbyavolleyofwordsandastoutapplicationofwhipcord；alsofollowedbykicksonthepartofthehorse，whichthrewitsheadandheelsupwardsandtriedtothrowhisrider。Atlengththesturdylittlepony，spreadingouthislegs，inastiffandludicrousattitude，gotfromundertheProfessor'slegs，andlefthimstanding，withbothfeetonaseparatestone，liketheColossusofRhodes。
"Wretchedanimal!"criedmyuncle，suddenlytransformedintoafootpassenger-andasangryandashamedasadismountedcavalryofficeronthefieldofbattle。
"Farja，"saidtheguide，tappinghimfamiliarlyontheshoulder。
"What，aferryboat!
"Der，"answeredHans，pointingtowherelaytheboatinquestion-"there。"
"Well，"Icried，quitedelightedwiththeinformation；"soitis。"
"Whydidyounotsaysobefore，"criedmyuncle；"whynotstartatonce?"
"Tidvatten，"saidtheguide。
"Whatdoeshesay?"Iasked，considerablypuzzledbythedelayandthedialogue。
"Hesaystide，"repliedmyuncle，translatingtheDanishwordformyinformation。
"OfcourseIunderstand-wemustwaittillthetideserves。"
"Forbida?"askedmyuncle。
"Ja，"repliedHans。
Myunclefrowned，stampedhisfeetandthenfollowedthehorsestowheretheboatlay。
Ithoroughlyunderstoodandappreciatedthenecessityforwaiting，beforecrossingthefjord，forthatmomentwhentheseaatitshighestpointisinastateofslackwater。Asneithertheebbnorflowcanthenbefelt，theferryboatwasinnodangerofbeingcarriedouttosea，ordashedupontherockycoast。
Thefavorablemomentdidnotcomeuntilsixo'clockintheevening。Thenmyuncle，myself，andguide，twoboatmenandthefourhorsesgotintoaveryawkwardflat-bottomboat。AccustomedasIhadbeentothesteamferryboatsoftheElbe，Ifoundthelongoarsoftheboatmenbutsorrymeansoflocomotion。Weweremorethananhourincrossingthefjord；butatlengththepassagewasconcludedwithoutaccident。
HalfanhourlaterwereachedGardar。
CHAPTER10
TravelinginIcelandITought，onewouldhavethought，tohavebeennight，eveninthesixty-fifthparalleloflatitude；butstillthenocturnalilluminationdidnotsurpriseme。ForinIceland，duringthemonthsofJuneandJuly，thesunneversets。
Thetemperature，however，wasverymuchlowerthanIexpected。Iwascold，buteventhatdidnotaffectmesomuchasravenoushunger。
Welcomeindeed，therefore，wasthehutwhichhospitablyopeneditsdoorstous。
Itwasmerelythehouseofapeasant，butinthematterofhospitality，itwasworthyofbeingthepalaceofaking。Aswealightedatthedoorthemasterofthehousecameforward，heldouthishand，andwithoutanyfurtherceremony，signaledtoustofollowhim。
Wefollowedhim，fortoaccompanyhimwasimpossible。Along，narrow，gloomypassageledintotheinteriorofthishabitation，madefrombeamsroughlysquaredbytheax。Thispassagegaveingresstoeveryroom。Thechamberswerefourinnumber-thekitchen，theworkshop，wheretheweavingwascarriedon，thegeneralsleepingchamberofthefamily，andthebestroom，towhichstrangerswereespeciallyinvited。Myuncle，whoseloftystaturehadnotbeentakenintoconsiderationwhenthehousewasbuilt，contrivedtoknockhisheadagainstthebeamsoftheroof。
Wewereintroducedintoourchamber，akindoflargeroomwithahardearthenfloor，andlightedbyawindow，thepanesofwhichweremadeofasortofparchmentfromtheintestinesofsheep-veryfarfromtransparent。
Thebeddingwascomposedofdryhaythrownintotwolongredwoodenboxes，ornamentedwithsentencespaintedinIcelandic。Ireallyhadnoideathatweshouldbemadesocomfortable。Therewasoneobjectiontothehouse，andthatwas，theverypowerfulodorofdriedfish，ofmaceratedmeat，andofsourmilk，whichthreefragrancescombineddidnotatallsuitmyolfactorynerves。
Assoonaswehadfreedourselvesfromourheavytravelingcostume，thevoiceofourhostwasheardcallingtoustocomeintothekitchen，theonlyroominwhichtheIcelandersevermakeanyfire，nomatterhowcolditmaybe。
Myuncle，nothingloath，hastenedtoobeythishospitableandfriendlyinvitation。Ifollowed。
Thekitchenchimneywasmadeonanantiquemodel。Alargestonestandinginthemiddleoftheroomwasthefireplace；above，intheroof，wasaholeforthesmoketopassthrough。Thisapartmentwaskitchen，parloranddiningroomallinone。
Onourentrance，ourworthyhost，asifhehadnotseenusbefore，advancedceremoniously，utteredawordwhichmeans"behappy，"andthenkissedbothofusonthecheek。
Hiswifefollowed，pronouncedthesameword，withthesameceremonial，thenthehusbandandwife，placingtheirrighthandsupontheirhearts，bowedprofoundly。
ThisexcellentIcelandicwomanwasthemotherofnineteenchildren，who，littleandbig，rolled，crawled，andwalkedaboutinthemidstofvolumesofsmokearisingfromtheangularfireplaceinthemiddleoftheroom。EverynowandthenIcouldseeafreshwhitehead，andaslightlymelancholyexpressionofcountenance，peeringatmethroughthevapor。
Bothmyuncleandmyself，however，wereveryfriendlywiththewholeparty，andbeforewewereawareofit，therewerethreeorfouroftheselittleonesonourshoulders，asmanyonourboxes，andtheresthangingaboutourlegs。Thosewhocouldspeakkeptcryingoutsaellvertuineverypossibleandimpossiblekey。Thosewhodidnotspeakonlymadeallthemorenoise。
Thisconcertwasinterruptedbytheannouncementofsupper。Atthismomentourworthyguide，theeider-duckhunter，cameinafterseeingtothefeedingandstablingofthehorses-whichconsistedinlettingthemloosetobrowseonthestuntedgreenoftheIcelandicprairies。Therewaslittleforthemtoeat，butmossandsomeverydryandinnutritiousgrass；nextdaytheywerereadybeforethedoor，sometimebeforewewere。
"Welcome，"saidHans。
Thentranquilly，withtheairofanautomaton，withoutanymoreexpressioninonekissthananother，heembracedthehostandhostessandtheirnineteenchildren。
Thisceremonyconcludedtothesatisfactionofallparties，weallsatdowntotable，thatistwenty-fourofus，somewhatcrowded。
Thosewhowerebestoffhadonlytwojuvenilesontheirknees。
Assoon，however，astheinevitablesoupwasplacedonthetable，thenaturaltaciturnity，commoneventoIcelandicbabies，prevailedoverallelse。OurhostfilledourplateswithaportionoflichensoupofIcelandmoss，ofbynomeansdisagreeableflavor，anenormouslumpoffishfloatinginsourbutter。Afterthattherecamesomeskyr，akindofcurdsandwhey，servedwithbiscuitsandjuniper-berryjuice。Todrink，wehadblanda，skimmedmilkwithwater。
Iwashungry，sohungry，thatbywayofdessertIfinishedupwithabasinofthickoatenporridge。
Assoonasthemealwasover，thechildrendisappeared，whilstthegrownpeoplesataroundthefireplace，onwhichwasplacedturf，heather，cowdunganddriedfish-bones。Assoonaseverybodywassufficientlywarm，ageneraldispersiontookplace，allretiringtotheirrespectivecouches。Ourhostessofferedtopulloffourstockingsandtrousers，accordingtothecustomofthecountry，butaswegraciouslydeclinedtobesohonored，sheleftustoourbedofdryfodder。
Nextday，atfiveinthemorning，wetookourleaveofthesehospitablepeasants。Myunclehadgreatdifficultyinmakingthemacceptasufficientandproperremuneration。
Hansthengavethesignaltostart。
WehadscarcelygotahundredyardsfromGardar，whenthecharacterofthecountrychanged。Thesoilbegantobemarshyandboggy，andlessfavorabletoprogress。Totheright，therangeofmountainswasprolongedindefinitelylikeagreatsystemofnaturalfortifications，ofwhichweskirtedtheglacis。Wemetwithnumerousstreamsandrivuletswhichitwasnecessarytoford，andthatwithoutwettingourbaggage。Asweadvanced，thedesertedappearanceincreased，andyetnowandthenwecouldseehumanshadowsflittinginthedistance。Whenasuddenturnofthetrackbroughtuswithineasyreachofoneofthesespecters，Ifeltasuddenimpulseofdisgustatthesightofaswollenhead，withshiningskin，utterlywithouthair，andwhoserepulsiveandrevoltingwoundscouldbeseenthroughhisrags。Theunhappywretchesnevercameforwardtobeg；onthecontrary，theyranaway；notsoquick，however，butthatHanswasabletosalutethemwiththeuniversalsaellvertu。
"Spetelsk，"saidhe。
"Aleper，"explainedmyuncle。
Theverysoundofsuchawordcausedafeelingofrepulsion。Thehorribleafflictionknownasleprosy，whichhasalmostvanishedbeforetheeffectsofmodernscience，iscommoninIceland。Itisnotcontagiousbuthereditary，sothatmarriageisstrictlyprohibitedtotheseunfortunatecreatures。
Thesepoorlepersdidnottendtoenlivenourjourney，thesceneofwhichwasinexpressiblysadandlonely。Theverylasttuftsofgrassyvegetationappearedtodieatourfeet。Notatreewastobeseen，exceptafewstuntedwillowsaboutasbigasblackberrybushes。Nowandthenwewatchedafalconsoaringinthegreyandmistyair，takinghisflighttowardswarmerandsunnierregions。Icouldnothelpfeelingasenseofmelancholycomeoverme。IsighedformyownNativeLand，andwishedtobebackwithGretchen。
Wewerecompelledtocrossseverallittlefjords，andatlastcametoarealgulf。Thetidewasatitsheight，andwewereabletogooveratonce，andreachthehamletofAlftanes，aboutamilefarther。
Thatevening，afterfordingtheAlfaandtheHeta，tworiversrichintroutandpike，wewerecompelledtopassthenightinadesertedhouse，worthyofbeinghauntedbyallthefaysofScandinavianmythology。TheKingofColdhadtakenuphisresidencethere，andmadeusfeelhispresenceallnight。
Thefollowingdaywasremarkablebyitslackofanyparticularincidents。Alwaysthesamedampandswampysoil；thesamedrearyuniformity；thesamesadandmonotonousaspectofscenery。Intheevening，havingaccomplishedthehalfofourprojectedjourney，wesleptattheAnnexiaofKrosolbt。
Forawholemilewehadunderourfeetnothingbutlava。Thisdispositionofthesoiliscalledhraun:thecrumbledlavaonthesurfacewasinsomeinstanceslikeshipcablesstretchedouthorizontally，inotherscoiledupinheaps；animmensefieldoflavacamefromtheneighboringmountains，allextinctvolcanoes，butwhoseremainsshowedwhatoncetheyhadbeen。Hereandtherecouldbemadeoutthesteamfromhotwatersprings。
Therewasnotime，however，forustotakemorethanacursoryviewofthesephenomena。Wehadtogoforwardwithwhatspeedwemight。Soonthesoftandswampysoilagainappearedunderthefeetofourhorses，whileateveryhundredyardswecameupononeormoresmalllakes。Ourjourneywasnowinawesterlydirection；wehad，infact，sweptroundthegreatbayofFaxa，andthetwinwhitesummitsofSneffelsrosetothecloudsatadistanceoflessthanfivemiles。
Thehorsesnowadvancedrapidly。Theaccidentsanddifficultiesofthesoilnolongercheckedthem。Iconfessthatfatiguebegantotellseverelyuponme；butmyunclewasasfirmandashardashehadbeenonthefirstday。IcouldnothelpadmiringboththeexcellentProfessorandtheworthyguide；fortheyappearedtoregardthisruggedexpeditionasamerewalk!
OnSaturday，the20thJune，atsixo'clockintheevening，wereachedBudir，asmalltownpicturesquelysituatedontheshoreoftheocean；andheretheguideaskedforhismoney。Myunclesettledwithhimimmediately。
ItwasnowthefamilyofHanshimself，thatistosay，hisuncles，hiscousins-german，whoofferedushospitality。Wewereexceedinglywellreceived，andwithouttakingtoomuchadvantageofthegoodnessoftheseworthypeople，Ishouldhavelikedverymuchtohaverestedwiththemafterthefatiguesofthejourney。Butmyuncle，whodidnotrequirerest，hadnoideaofanythingofthekind；anddespitethefactthatnextdaywasSunday，I
wascompelledoncemoretomountmysteed。
Thesoilwasagainaffectedbytheneighborhoodofthemountains，whosegranitepeeredoutofthegroundliketopsofanoldoak。Wewereskirtingtheenormousbaseofthemightyvolcano。Myunclenevertookhiseyesfromoffit；hecouldnotkeepfromgesticulating，andlookingatitwithakindofsullendefianceasmuchastosay"ThatisthegiantIhavemadeupmymindtoconquer。"
Afterfourhoursofsteadytraveling，thehorsesstoppedofthemselvesbeforethedoorofthepresbyteryofStapi。
CHAPTER11
WeReachMountSneffelsSTAPIisatownconsistingofthirtyhuts，builtonalargeplainoflava，exposedtotheraysofthesun，reflectedfromthevolcano。Itstretchesitshumbletenementsalongtheendofalittlefjord，surroundedbyabasalticwallofthemostsingularcharacter。
Basaltisabrownrockofigneousorigin。Itassumesregularforms，whichastonishbytheirsingularappearance。HerewefoundNatureproceedinggeometrically，andworkingquiteafterahumanfashion，asifshehademployedtheplummetline，thecompassandtherule。Ifelsewheresheproducesgrandartisticeffectsbypilinguphugemasseswithoutorderorconnection-ifelsewhereweseetruncatedcones，imperfectpyramids，withanoddsuccessionoflines；here，asifwishingtogivealessoninregularity，andprecedingthearchitectsoftheearlyages，shehaserectedasevereorderofarchitecture，whichneitherthesplendorsofBabylonnorthemarvelsofGreeceeversurpassed。
IhadoftenheardoftheGiant'sCausewayinIreland，andofFingal'sCaveinoneoftheHebrides，butthegrandspectacleofarealbasalticformationhadneveryetcomebeforemyeyes。
ThisatStapigaveusanideaofoneinallitswonderfulbeautyandgrace。
Thewallofthefjord，likenearlythewholeofthepeninsula，consistedofaseriesofverticalcolumns，inheightaboutthirtyfeet。Theseuprightpillarsofstone，ofthefinestproportions，supportedanarchivaultofhorizontalcolumnswhichformedakindofhalf-vaultedroofabovethesea。Atcertainintervals，andbelowthisnaturalbasin，theeyewaspleasedandsurprisedbythesightofovalopeningsthroughwhichtheoutwardwavescamethunderinginvolleysoffoam。Somebanksofbasalt，tornfromtheirfasteningsbythefuryofthewaves，layscatteredonthegroundliketheruinsofanancienttemple-ruinseternallyyoung，overwhichthestormsofagessweptwithoutproducinganyperceptibleeffect!
Thiswasthelaststageofourjourney。Hanshadbroughtusalongwithfidelityandintelligence，andIbegantofeelsomewhatmorecomfortablewhenIreflectedthathewastoaccompanyusstillfartheronourway。
WhenwehaltedbeforethehouseoftheRector，asmallandincommodiouscabin，neitherhandsomenormorecomfortablethanthoseofhisneighbors，Isawamanintheactofshoeingahorse，ahammerinhishand，andaleathernaprontiedroundhiswaist。
"Behappy，"saidtheeider-downhunter，usinghisnationalsalutationinhisownlanguage。
"Goddag-goodday!"repliedtheformer，inexcellentDanish。
"Kyrkoherde，"criedHans，turningroundandintroducinghimtomyuncle。
half-vaultedroofabovethesea。Atcertainintervals，andbelowthisnaturalbasin，theeyewaspleasedandsurprisedbythesightofovalopeningsthroughwhichtheoutwardwavescamethunderinginvolleysoffoam。Somebanksofbasalt，tornfromtheirfasteningsbythefuryofthewaves，layscatteredonthegroundliketheruinsofanancienttemple-ruinseternallyyoung，overwhichthestormsofagessweptwithoutproducinganyperceptibleeffect!
Thiswasthelaststageofourjourney。Hanshadbroughtusalongwithfidelityandintelligence，andIbegantofeelsomewhatmorecomfortablewhenIreflectedthathewastoaccompanyusstillfartheronourway。
WhenwehaltedbeforethehouseoftheRector，asmallandincommodiouscabin，neitherhandsomenormorecomfortablethanthoseofhisneighbors，Isawamanintheactofshoeingahorse，ahammerinhishand，andaleathernaprontiedroundhiswaist。
"Behappy，"saidtheeider-downhunter，usinghisnationalsalutationinhisownlanguage。
"Goddag-goodday!"repliedtheformer，inexcellentDanish。
"Kyrkoherde，"criedHans，turningroundandintroducinghimtomyuncle。
"TheRector，"repeatedtheworthyProfessor；"itappears，mydearHarry，thatthisworthymanistheRector，andisnotabovedoinghisownwork。"
DuringthespeakingofthesewordstheguideintimatedtotheKyrkoherdewhatwasthetruestateofthecase。Thegoodman，ceasingfromhisoccupation，gaveakindofhalloo，uponwhichatallwoman，almostagiantess，cameoutofthehut。Shewasatleastsixfeethigh，whichinthatregionissomethingconsiderable。
Myfirstimpressionwasoneofhorror。IthoughtshehadcometogiveustheIcelandickiss。Ihad，however，nothingtofear，forshedidnotevenshowmuchinclinationtoreceiveusintoherhouse。
Theroomdevotedtostrangersappearedtometobebyfartheworstinthepresbytery；itwasnarrow，dirtyandoffensive。Therewas，however，nochoiceaboutthematter。TheRectorhadnonotionofpracticingtheusualcordialandantiquehospitality。Farfromit。Beforethedaywasover，Ifoundwehadtodealwithablacksmith，afisherman，ahunter，acarpenter，anythingbutaclergyman。Itmustbesaidinhisfavorthatwehadcaughthimonaweekday；
probablyheappearedtogreateradvantageontheSunday。
ThesepoorpriestsreceivefromtheDanishGovernmentamostridiculouslyinadequatesalary，andcollectonequarterofthetitheoftheirparish-notmorethansixtymarkscurrent，oraboutL310s。
sterling。Hencethenecessityofworkingtolive。Intruth，wesoonfoundthatourhostdidnotcountcivilityamongthecardinalvirtues。
Myunclesoonbecameawareofthekindofmanhehadtodealwith。
Insteadofaworthyandlearnedscholar，hefoundadullill-manneredpeasant。Hethereforeresolvedtostartonhisgreatexpeditionassoonaspossible。Hedidnotcareaboutfatigue，andresolvedtospendafewdaysinthemountains。
ThepreparationsforourdepartureweremadetheverynextdayafterourarrivalatStapi；HansnowhiredthreeIcelanderstotaketheplaceofthehorses-whichcouldnolongercarryourluggage。When，however，theseworthyislandershadreachedthebottomofthecrater，theyweretogobackandleaveustoourselves。Thispointwassettledbeforetheywouldagreetostart。
Onthisoccasion，myunclepartlyconfidedinHans，theeider-duckhunter，andgavehimtounderstandthatitwashisintentiontocontinuehisexplorationofthevolcanotothelastpossiblelimits。
Hanslistenedcalmly，andthennoddedhishead。Togothere，orelsewhere，toburyhimselfinthebowelsoftheearth，ortotraveloveritssummits，wasallthesametohim!Asforme，amusedandoccupiedbytheincidentsoftravel，Ihadbeguntoforgettheinevitablefuture；butnowIwasoncemoredestinedtorealizetheactualstateofaffairs。Whatwastobedone?Runaway?ButifI
reallyhadintendedtoleaveProfessorHardwiggtohisfate，itshouldhavebeenatHamburgandnotatthefootofSneffels。
Oneidea，aboveallothers，begantotroubleme:averyterribleidea，andonecalculatedtoshakethenervesofamanevenlesssensitivethanmyself。
"Letusconsiderthematter，"Isaidtomyself；"wearegoingtoascendtheSneffelsmountain。Wellandgood。Weareabouttopayavisittotheverybottomofthecrater。Good，still。Othershavedoneitanddidnotperishfromthatcourse。
"That，however，isnotthewholemattertobeconsidered。IfaroaddoesreallypresentitselfbywhichtodescendintothedarkandsubterraneousbowelsofMotherEarth，ifthisthriceunhappySaknussemmhasreallytoldthetruth，weshallbemostcertainlylostinthemidstofthelabyrinthofsubterraneousgalleriesofthevolcano。Now，wehavenoevidencetoprovethatSneffelsisreallyextinct。Whatproofhavewethataneruptionisnotshortlyabouttotakeplace?Becausethemonsterhassleptsoundlysince1219，doesitfollowthatheisnevertowake?
"Ifhedoeswakewhatistobecomeofus?"
Thesewerequestionsworththinkingabout，anduponthemIreflectedlonganddeeply。Icouldnotliedowninsearchofsleepwithoutdreamingoferuptions。ThemoreIthought，themoreIobjectedtobereducedtothestateofdrossandashes。
Icouldstanditnolonger；soIdeterminedatlasttosubmitthewholecasetomyuncle，inthemostadroitmannerpossible，andundertheformofsometotallyirreconcilablehypothesis。
Isoughthim。Ilaidbeforehimmyfears，andthendrewbackinordertolethimgethispassionoverathisease。
"Ihavebeenthinkingaboutthematter，"hesaid，inthequietesttoneintheworld。
Whatdidhemean?Washeatlastabouttolistentothevoiceofreason?Didhethinkofsuspendinghisprojects?Itwasalmosttoomuchhappinesstobetrue。
Ihowevermadenoremark。Infact，Iwasonlytooanxiousnottointerrupthim，andallowedhimtoreflectathisleisure。Aftersomemomentshespokeout。
"Ihavebeenthinkingaboutthematter，"heresumed。"EversincewehavebeenatStapi，mymindhasbeenalmostsolelyoccupiedwiththegravequestionwhichhasbeensubmittedtomebyyourself-fornothingwouldbeunwiserandmoreinconsistentthantoactwithimprudence。"
"Iheartilyagreewithyou，mydearuncle，"wasmysomewhathopefulrejoinder。
"ItisnowsixhundredyearssinceSneffelshasspoken，butthoughnowreducedtoastateofuttersilence，hemayspeakagain。Newvolcaniceruptionsarealwaysprecededbyperfectlywell-knownphenomena。Ihavecloselyexaminedtheinhabitantsofthisregion；I
havecarefullystudiedthesoil，andIbegtotellyouemphatically，mydearHarry，therewillbenoeruptionatpresent。"
AsIlistenedtohispositiveaffirmations，Iwasstupefiedandcouldsaynothing。
"Iseeyoudoubtmyword，"saidmyuncle；"followme。"
Iobeyedmechanically。
Leavingthepresbytery，theProfessortookaroadthroughanopeninginthebasalticrock，whichledfarawayfromthesea。Weweresooninopencountry，ifwecouldgivesuchanametoaplaceallcoveredwithvolcanicdeposits。Thewholelandseemedcrushedundertheweightofenormousstones-oftrap，ofbasalt，ofgranite，oflava，andofallothervolcanicsubstances。
Icouldseemanyspoutsofsteamrisingintheair。Thesewhitevapors，calledintheIcelandiclanguage"reykir，"comefromhotwaterfountains，andindicatebytheirviolencethevolcanicactivityofthesoil。Nowthesightoftheseappearedtojustifymyapprehension。I
was，therefore，allthemoresurprisedandmortifiedwhenmyunclethusaddressedme。
"Youseeallthissmoke，Harry，myboy?"
"Yes，sir。"
"Well，aslongasyouseethemthus，youhavenothingtofearfromthevolcano。"
"Howcanthatbe?"
"Becarefultorememberthis，"continuedtheProfessor。"Attheapproachofaneruptionthesespoutsofvaporredoubletheiractivity-
todisappearaltogetherduringtheperiodofvolcaniceruption；fortheelasticfluids，nolongerhavingthenecessarytension，seekrefugeintheinteriorofthecrater，insteadofescapingthroughthefissuresoftheearth。If，then，thesteamremainsinitsnormalorhabitualstate，iftheirenergydoesnotincrease，andifyouaddtothis，theremarkthatthewindisnotreplacedbyheavyatmosphericpressureanddeadcalm，youmaybequitesurethatthereisnofearofanyimmediateeruption。"
"But-"
"Enough，myboy。Whensciencehassentforthherfiat-itisonlytohearandobey。"
Icamebacktothehousequitedowncastanddisappointed。Myunclehadcompletelydefeatedmewithhisscientificarguments。
Nevertheless，Ihadstillonehope，andthatwas，whenoncewewereatthebottomofthecrater，thatitwouldbeimpossibleindefaultofagalleryortunnel，todescendanydeeper；andthis，despiteallthelearnedSaknussemmsintheworld。
Ipassedthewholeofthefollowingnightwithanightmareonmychest!and，afterunheard-ofmiseriesandtortures，foundmyselfintheverydepthsoftheearth，fromwhichIwassuddenlylaunchedintoplanetaryspace，undertheformofaneruptiverock!
Nextday，June23d，Hanscalmlyawaitedusoutsidethepresbyterywithhisthreecompanionsloadedwithprovisions，tools，andinstruments。Twoiron-shodpoles，twoguns，andtwolargegamebags，werereservedformyuncleandmyself。Hans，whowasamanwhoneverforgoteventheminutestprecautions，hadaddedtoourbaggagealargeskinfullofwater，asanadditiontoourgourds。Thisassureduswaterforeightdays。
Itwasnineo'clockinthemorningwhenwewerequiteready。Therectorandhishugewifeorservant，Ineverknewwhich，stoodatthedoortoseeusoff。TheyappearedtobeabouttoinflictonustheusualfinalkissoftheIcelanders。Tooursupremeastonishmenttheiradieutooktheshapeofaformidablebill，inwhichtheyevencountedtheuseofthepastoralhouse，reallyandtrulythemostabominableanddirtyplaceIeverwasin。TheworthycouplecheatedandrobbeduslikeaSwissinnkeeper，andmadeusfeel，bythesumwehadtopay，thesplendorsoftheirhospitality。
Myuncle，however，paidwithoutbargaining。AmanwhohadmadeuphismindtoundertakeavoyageintotheInterioroftheEarth，isnotthemantohaggleoverafewmiserablerix-dollars。
Thisimportantmattersettled，Hansgavethesignalfordeparture，andsomefewmomentslaterwehadleftStapi。
CHAPTER12
TheAscentofMountSneffelsTHEhugevolcanowhichwasthefirststageofourdaringexperimentisabovefivethousandfeethigh。Sneffelsistheterminationofalongrangeofvolcanicmountains，ofadifferentcharactertothesystemoftheislanditself。Oneofitspeculiaritiesisitstwohugepointedsummits。Fromwhencewestarteditwasimpossibletomakeouttherealoutlinesofthepeakagainstthegreyfieldofsky。Allwecoulddistinguishwasavastdomeofwhite，whichfelldownwardsfromtheheadofthegiant。
Thecommencementofthegreatundertakingfilledmewithawe。Nowthatwehadactuallystarted，Ibegantobelieveintherealityoftheundertaking!
Ourpartyformedquiteaprocession。Wewalkedinsinglefile，precededbyHans，theimperturbableeider-duckhunter。Hecalmlyledusbynarrowpathswheretwopersonscouldbynopossibilitywalkabreast。Conversationwaswhollyimpossible。Wehadallthemoreopportunitytoreflectandadmiretheawfulgrandeurofthescenearound。
BeyondtheextraordinarybasalticwallofthefjordofStapiwefoundourselvesmakingourwaythroughfibrousturf，overwhichgrewascantyvegetationofgrass，theresiduumoftheancientvegetationoftheswampypeninsula。Thevastmassofthiscombustible，thefieldofwhichasyetisutterlyunexplored，wouldsufficetowarmIcelandforawholecentury。Thismightyturfpit，measuredfromthebottomofcertainravines，isoftennotlessthanseventyfeetdeep，andpresentstotheeyetheviewofsuccessivelayersofblackburned-uprockydetritus，separatedbythinstreaksofporoussandstone。
Thegrandeurofthespectaclewasundoubted，aswellasitsaridanddesertedair。
AsatruenephewofthegreatProfessorHardwigg，anddespitemypreoccupationanddolefulfearsofwhatwastocome，Iobservedwithgreatinterestthevastcollectionofmineralogicalcuriositiesspreadoutbeforemeinthisvastmuseumofnaturalhistory。Lookingbacktomyrecentstudies，IwentoverinthoughtthewholegeologicalhistoryofIceland。
Thisextraordinaryandcuriousislandmusthavemadeitsappearancefromoutofthegreatworldofwatersatacomparativelyrecentdate。LikethecoralislandsofthePacific，itmay，foraughtweknow，bestillrisingbyslowandimperceptibledegrees。
Ifthisreallybethecase，itsorigincanbeattributedtoonlyonecause-thatofthecontinuedactionofsubterraneanfires。
Thiswasahappythought。
Ifso，ifthisweretrue，awaywiththetheoriesofSirHumphryDavy；awaywiththeauthorityoftheparchmentofArneSaknussemm；thewonderfulpretensionstodiscoveryonthepartofmyuncle-andtoourjourney!
Allmustendinsmoke。
Charmedwiththeidea，Ibeganmorecarefullytolookaboutme。A
seriousstudyofthesoilwasnecessarytonegativeorconfirmmyhypothesis。ItookineveryitemofwhatIsaw，andIbegantocomprehendthesuccessionofphenomenawhichhadprecededitsformation。
Iceland，beingabsolutelywithoutsedimentarysoil，iscomposedexclusivelyofvolcanictufa；thatistosay，ofanagglomerationofstonesandofrocksofaporoustexture。Longbeforetheexistenceofvolcanoes，itwascomposedofasolidbodyofmassivetraprockliftedbodilyandslowlyoutofthesea，bytheactionofthecentrifugalforceatworkintheearth。
Theinternalfires，however，hadnotasyetbursttheirboundsandfloodedtheexteriorcakeofMotherEarthwithhotandraginglava。
Myreadersmustexcusethisbriefandsomewhatpedanticgeologicallecture。Butitisnecessarytothecompleteunderstandingofwhatfollows。
Atalaterperiodintheworld'shistory，ahugeandmightyfissuremust，reasoningbyanalogy，havebeendugdiagonallyfromthesouthwesttothenortheastoftheisland，throughwhichbydegreesflowedthevolcaniccrust。Thegreatandwondrousphenomenonthenwentonwithoutviolence-theoutpouringwasenormous，andtheseethingfusedmatter，ejectedfromthebowelsoftheearth，spreadslowlyandpeacefullyintheformofvastlevelplains，orwhatarecalledmamelonsormounds。
Itwasatthisepochthattherockscalledfeldspars，syenites，andporphyriesappeared。
Butasanaturalconsequenceofthisoverflow，thedepthoftheislandincreased。Itcanreadilybebelievedwhatanenormousquantityofelasticfluidswerepiledupwithinitscenter，whenatlastitaffordednootheropenings，aftertheprocessofcoolingthecrusthadtakenplace。
Atlengthatimecamewhendespitetheenormousthicknessandweightoftheuppercrust，themechanicalforcesofthecombustiblegasesbelowbecamesogreat，thattheyactuallyupheavedtheweightybackandmadeforthemselveshugeandgiganticshafts。Hencethevolcanoeswhichsuddenlyarosethroughtheuppercrust，andnextthecraters，whichburstforthatthesummitofthesenewcreations。
Itwillbeseenthatthefirstphenomenainconnectionwiththeformationoftheislandweresimplyeruptive；tothese，however，shortlysucceededthevolcanicphenomena。
Throughthenewlyformedopenings，escapedthemarvelousmassofbasalticstoneswithwhichtheplainwewerenowcrossingwascovered。
Weweretramplingourwayoverheavyrocksofdarkgreycolor，which，whilecooling，hadbeenmouldedintosix-sidedprisms。Inthe"backdistance"wecouldseeanumberofflattenedcones，whichformerlyweresomanyfire-vomitingmouths。
Afterthebasalticeruptionwasappeasedandsetatrest，thevolcano，theforceofwhichincreasedwiththatoftheextinctcraters，gavefreepassagetothefieryoverflowoflava，andtothemassofcindersandpumicestone，nowscatteredoverthesidesofthemountain，likedisheveledhairontheshouldersofaBacchante。
Here，inanutshell，IhadthewholehistoryofthephenomenafromwhichIcelandarose。Alltaketheirriseinthefierceactionofinteriorfires，andtobelievethatthecentralmassdidnotremaininastateofliquidfire，whitehot，wassimplyandpurelymadness。
ThisbeingsatisfactorilyprovedQ。E。D。，whatinsensatefollytopretendtopenetrateintotheinteriorofthemightyearth!
Thismentallecturedeliveredtomyselfwhileproceedingonajourney，didmegood。Iwasquitereassuredastothefateofourenterprise；andthereforewent，likeabravesoldiermountingabristlingbattery，totheassaultofoldSneffels。
Asweadvanced，theroadbecameeverymomentmoredifficult。Thesoilwasbrokenanddangerous。Therocksbrokeandgavewayunderourfeet，andwehadtobescrupulouslycarefulinordertoavoiddangerousandconstantfalls。
HansadvancedascalmlyasifhehadbeenwalkingoverSalisburyPlain；sometimeshewoulddisappearbehindhugeblocksofstone，andwemomentarilylostsightofhim。Therewasalittleperiodofanxietyandthentherewasashrillwhistle，justtotelluswheretolookforhim。
Occasionallyhewouldtakeitintohisheadtostoptopickuplumpsofrock，andsilentlypilethemupintosmallheaps，inorderthatwemightnotloseourwayonourreturn。
Hehadnoideaofthejourneywewereabouttoundertake。
Atallevents，theprecautionwasagoodone；thoughhowutterlyuselessandunnecessary-butImustnotanticipate。
Threehoursofterriblefatigue，walkingincessantly，hadonlybroughtustothefootofthegreatmountain。Thiswillgivesomenotionofwhatwehadstilltoundergo。
Suddenly，however，Hanscriedahalt-thatis，hemadesignstothateffect-andasummarykindofbreakfastwaslaidoutonthelavabeforeus。Myuncle，whonowwassimplyProfessorHardwigg，wassoeagertoadvance，thatheboltedhisfoodlikeagreedyclown。Thishaltforrefreshmentwasalsoahaltforrepose。TheProfessorwasthereforecompelledtowaitthegoodpleasureofhisimperturbableguide，whodidnotgivethesignalfordepartureforagoodhour。
ThethreeIcelanders，whowereastaciturnastheircomrade，didnotsayaword；butwentoneatinganddrinkingveryquietlyandsoberly。
Fromthis，ourfirstrealstage，webegantoascendtheslopesoftheSneffelsvolcano。Itsmagnificentsnowynightcap，aswebegantocallit，byanopticaldelusionverycommoninmountains，appearedtometobecloseathand；andyethowmanylongwearyhoursmustelapsebeforewereacheditssummit。Whatunheard-offatiguemustweendure!
Thestonesonthemountainside，heldtogetherbynocementofsoil，boundtogetherbynorootsorcreepingherbs，gavewaycontinuallyunderourfeet，andwentrushingbelowintotheplains，likeaseriesofsmallavalanches。
Incertainplacesthesidesofthisstupendousmountainwereatananglesosteepthatitwasimpossibletoclimbupwards，andwewerecompelledtogetroundtheseobstaclesasbestwemight。
ThosewhounderstandAlpineclimbingwillcomprehendourdifficulties。Oftenwewereobligedtohelpeachotheralongbymeansofourclimbingpoles。
Imustsaythisformyuncle，thathestuckasclosetomeaspossible。Heneverlostsightofme，andonmanyoccasionshisarmsuppliedmewithfirmandsolidsupport。Hewasstrong，wiry，andapparentlyinsensibletofatigue。Anothergreatadvantagewithhimwasthathehadtheinnatesentimentofequilibrium-forheneverslippedorfailedinhissteps。TheIcelanders，thoughheavilyloaded，climbedwiththeagilityofmountaineers。
Lookingup，everynowandthen，attheheightofthegreatvolcanoofSneffels，itappearedtomewhollyimpossibletoreachtothesummitonthatside；atallevents，iftheangleofinclinationdidnotspeedilychange。
Fortunately，afteranhourofunheard-offatigues，andofgymnasticexercisesthatwouldhavebeentryingtoanacrobat，wecametoavastfieldofice，whichwhollysurroundedthebottomoftheconeofthevolcano。Thenativescalleditthetablecloth，probablyfromsomesuchreasonasthedwellersintheCapeofGoodHopecalltheirmountainTableMountain，andtheirroadsTableBay。
Here，toourmutualsurprise，wefoundanactualflightofstonesteps，whichwonderfullyassistedourascent。Thissingularflightofstairswas，likeeverythingelse，volcanic。Ithadbeenformedbyoneofthosetorrentsofstonescastupbytheeruptions，andofwhichtheIcelandicnameisstina。Ifthissingulartorrenthadnotbeencheckedinitsdescentbythepeculiarshapeoftheflanksofthemountain，itwouldhavesweptintothesea，andwouldhaveformednewislands。
Suchasitwas，itservedusadmirably。Theabruptcharacteroftheslopesmomentarilyincreased，buttheseremarkablestonesteps，alittlelessdifficultthanthoseoftheEgyptianpyramids，weretheonesimplenaturalmeansbywhichwewereenabledtoproceed。
Aboutsevenintheeveningofthatday，afterhavingclambereduptwothousandoftheseroughsteps，wefoundourselvesoverlookingakindofspurorprojectionofthemountain-asortofbuttressuponwhichtheconelikecrater，properlysocalled，leanedforsupport。
Theoceanlaybeneathusatadepthofmorethanthreethousandtwohundredfeet-agrandandmightyspectacle。Wehadreachedtheregionofeternalsnows。