Letanyonefancyanexcursionamidst900ships，greatandsmall，whichlinedbothshoresoftheElbeintiersofthreedeepormore；
thepassingtoandfroofcountlessboatsbusilyemployedinloadingorunloadingthesevessels；thesethings，togetherwiththeshoutingandsingingofthesailors，therattlingofanchorswhicharebeingweighed，andtherushandswellofpassingsteamers，combinetoconstituteapicturenottobesurpassedinanycityexceptinthatmetropolisoftheworld，London。{12}
Thereasonofthisunusualactivityintheharbourlayintheseverityofthepastwinter。Suchawinterhadnotbeenexperiencedforseventyyears:theElbeandtheBalticlayformonthsinicychains，andnotashipcouldtraversethefrozenriver，notananchorcouldbeweighedorlowered。Itwasonlyashorttimebeforemyarrivalthatthepassagehadoncemorebecomefree。
Intheneighbourhoodoftheharbouraresituatedthegreaternumberoftheso-called"yards。"Ihadreadconcerningthemthat，viewedfromtheexterior，theylooklikecommonhouses；butthattheyconstituteseparatecommunities，andcontainalleysandstreets，servingasthedomicileofinnumerablefamilies。Ivisitedseveraloftheseplaces，andcanassurethereaderthatIsawnothingextraordinaryinthem。Houseswithtwolargewings，forminganalleyoffromeightytoahundredpacesinlength，aretobemetwithineverylargetown；andthatanumberoffamiliesshouldinhabitsuchahouseisnotremarkable，consideringthattheyareallpoor，andthateachonlypossessesasinglesmallapartment。
Thefavouritewalkinthetownisthe"Jungfernstieg"Maiden'sWalk，abroadalley，extendingroundaspaciousandbeautifulbasinoftheAlster。Ononesidearesplendidhotels，withwhichHamburghisrichlyprovided；ontheother，anumberofprivateresidencesofequalpretensions。Otherwalksare，the"Wall，"surroundingthetown，andthe"BotanicalGarden，"whichresemblesafinepark。Thenoblestbuilding，distinguishedalikeasregardsluxury，skill，tastefulnessofdesign，andstability，istheBazaar。Itistrulyagiganticundertaking，andthemoretobeadmiredfromthefactthatitisnotbuiltuponshares，butattheexpenseofasingleindividual，HerrCarlSillem；thearchitect'snameisOverdick。Thebuildingitselfisconstructedentirelyofstone，andthewallsofthegreatroomandofthehallareinlaidwithmarble。Aloftycupolaandanimmenseglazeddomecoverboththegreatroomandthehall；theupperstaircasesareornamentedwithbeautifulstatues。
Whenintheeveningitisbrilliantlylightedwithgas，andfurtherornamentedbyatastefuldisplayoftherichestwares，thespectatorcanalmostfancyhimselftransportedtoafairypalace。
AltogethertheshopsinHamburghareveryluxurious。Thewaresliedisplayedinthemosttastefulmannerbehindhugewindowsofplate-
glass，whichareoftenfromfivetosixfeetbroad，andeightortenfeethigh；asinglesheetfrequentlycosts600florins。Thisplate-
glassluxuryisnotconfinedtoshops，butextendstowindowsgenerally，notonlyinHamburgh，butalsoinAltona，andisalsoseeninthehandsomestcountry-housesoftheHamburghers。Manyapanecostseightortenflorins；andtheglassisinsuredincaseofbreakage，likehousesincaseoffire。
Thisdisplayofglassisequalledbythecostlinessofthefurniture，whichisalmostuniversallyofmahogany；awoodwhichishereinsuchcommonuse，thatinsomeofthemosteleganthousestheverystair-banistersareconstructedofit。Eventhepilotshaveoftenmahoganyfurniture。
Thehandsomestandmostfrequentedstreetisthe"NeueWall"NewWall。Iwasparticularlystruckwiththenumberofshopsanddwellingsunderground，towhichonedescendsbyaflightofsixoreightstairs；anironrailingisgenerallyplacedbeforetheentrance，topreventthepassers-byfromfallingdown。
Averypracticalinstitutionisthegreatslaughterhouse，inwhichallcattlearekilledoncertaindaysoftheweek。
ConcerningthetownofAltona，IhaveonlytoobservethatitappearedtomeacontinuationofHamburgh；fromwhichtown，indeed，itisonlyseparatedbyawoodendoor。Averybroad，handsomestreet，or，moreproperlyspeaking，anelongatedsquare，plantedwithadoublerowoflargetrees，isthemostremarkablethingaboutAltona，whichbelongstotheDanishGovernment，andisconsidered，afterCopenhagen，themostimportantplaceinthekingdom。
ItisadeliciousridetothevillageofBlankenese，distantninemilesfromHamburgh；theroadliesamongbeautifulcountry-housesandlargepark-likegardens。Blankeneseitselfconsistsofcottages，groupedinapicturesquemannerroundtheSulberg，ahillfromwhichthetravellerenjoysaveryextendedviewoverthegreatplain，inwhichitistheonlyelevatedpoint。ThecourseoftheElbe，asitwindsatmoderatespeedtowardsthesea，isheretobetracedalmosttoitsembouchureatCuxhaven。
ThebreadthoftheElbeatBlankeneseexceedstwomiles。
Anotherinterestingexcursionistothe"NewMills，"alittlevillageontheElbe，notmorethanhalfamilefromAltona，andinhabitedonlybyfishermenandpilots。WhoeverwishestoformanideaofDutchprettinessandcleanlinessshouldcomehere。
Thehousesaremostlyonestoryhigh，neatlyandtastefullybuilt；
thebrightestofbrasshandlesadornthestreet-doors；thewindowsarekeptscrupulouslyclean，andfurnishedwithwhitecurtains。
InSaxonyIhadfoundmanydwellingsofthepeasantrytidyandneatenough，displayingatanyratemoreopulencethanweareaccustomedtofindwiththisclassofpeople；butIhadseennonetocompetewiththisprettyvillage。
Amongthepeasants'costumes，Ionlylikedthatwornbythewomenfromthe"Vierlanden。"Theywearshortfullskirtsofblackstuff，finewhitechemisetteswithlongsleeves，andcolouredbodices，lightlyfastenedinfrontwithsilkcordsorsilverbuckles。Theirstrawhatshaveamostcomicalappearance；thebrimofthehatisturnedupinsuchamannerthatthecrownappearstohavecompletelysunkin。ManyprettyyounggirlsdressedinthismannercometoHamburghtosellflowers，andtakeuptheirpositioninfrontoftheExchange。
The26thofApril，thedayappointedformydeparture，arrivedonlytoospeedily。Topartistheunavoidablefateofthetraveller；butsometimeswepartgladly，sometimeswithregret。IneednotwritemanypagestodescribemyfeelingsatthepartinginHamburgh。I
wasleavingbehindmemylastrelations，mylastfriends。NowIwasgoingintothewideworld，andamongstrangers。
Ateighto'clockinthemorningIleftAltona，andproceededbyrailwaytoKiel。
Inoticedwithpleasurethatonthisrailwayeventhethird-classcarriagesweresecurelycoveredin，andfurnishedwithglasswindows。Infact，theyonlydifferedfromthoseofthefirstandsecondclassinbeingpaintedadifferentcolour，andhavingtheseatsuncushioned。
Thewholedistanceofseventymileswaspassedinthreehours；arapidjourney，butagreeablemerelybyitsrapidity，forthewholeneighbourhoodpresentsonlywidely-extendedplains，turf-bogsandmoorlands，sandyplacesandheaths，interspersedwithalittlemeadoworarableland。Fromthenatureofthesoil，thewaterintheditchesandfieldslookedblackasink。
NearBinneburgwenoticeafewstuntedplantationsoftrees。FromEisholmabranch-lineleadstoGluckstadt，andanotherfromNeumunster，alargeplacewithimportantcloth-factories，toRendsburg。
Fromherethereisnothingtobeseenbutaconvent，inwhichmanyDukesofHolsteinlieburied，andseveralunimportantlakes；forinstance，thoseofBernsholm，Einfeld，andSchulhof。ThelittleriverEiderwouldhavepassedunnoticedbyme，hadnotsomeofmyfellow-passengersmadeagreatfeatureofit。InthefinestcountriesIhavefoundthenativesfarlessenthusiasticaboutwhatwasreallygrandandbeautiful，thantheywerehereinpraiseofwhatwasneithertheonenortheother。Myneighbour，averyagreeablelady，wasuntiringinlaudationofherbeautifulnativeland。Inhereyesthecrippledwoodwasasplendidpark，thewastemoorlandaninexhaustiblefieldforcontemplation，andeverytrifleamatterofrealimportance。InmyheartIwishedherjoyofherfervidimagination；butunfortunatelymycoldernaturewouldnotcatchtheinfection。
TowardsKieltheplainbecomesaregionoflowhills。KielitselfisprettilysituatedontheBaltic，which，viewedfromthence，hastheappearanceofalakeofmiddlingsize。Theharbourissaidtobegood；buttherewerenotmanyshipsthere。{13}AmongthesewasthesteamerdestinedtocarrymetoCopenhagen。LittledidI
anticipatethegoodreasonIshouldhavetorememberthisvessel。
ThankstotheaffectionateforethoughtofmycousinSchmidt，Ifoundoneofhisrelations，HerrBrauer，waitingformeattherailway。I
wasimmediatelyintroducedtohisfamily，andpassedthefewhoursofmystayveryagreeablyintheircompany。
Eveningapproached，andwithitthehourofembarkation。MykindfriendstheBrauersaccompaniedmetothesteamer，andItookagratefulleaveofthem。
IsoondiscoveredthesteamerChristianVIII。，of180-horsepower，tobeavesseldirtierandmoreuncomfortablethananywithwhichI
hadbecomeacquaintedinmymaritimeexcursions。Scrubbingandsweepingseemedthingsunknownhere。Theapproachtothecabinwasbyaflightofstairssosteep，thatgreatcarewasrequisitetoavoiddescendinginanexpeditiousbutdisagreeablemanner，byafallfromtoptobottom。Inthefore-cabintherewasnoattemptatseparatequartersforladiesandgentlemen。Inshort，thearrangementsseemedalltohavebeenmadewithaviewofimpressingtheshipvividlyontherecollectionofeverytraveller。
Atnineo'clockweleftKiel。Thedayandthetwilightareherealreadylongerthaninthelandslyingtothesouthandthewest。
Therewaslightenoughtoenablemetosee，loomingoutofthesurroundingdarkness，thefortress"Friedrichsort，"whichwepassedataboutteno'clock。
April27th。
To-dayIstillrosewiththesun；butthatwillsoonbeadifficultmattertoaccomplish；forinthenorththegoddessoflightmakesamendsinspringandsummerforhershortcomingsduringthewinter。
Iwentondeck，andlookedonthebroadexpanseofocean。Nolandwastobeseen；butsoonacoastappeared，thendisappeared，andthenanewandmoredistantoneroseoutofthesea。TowardsnoonwereachedtheislandofMoen，whichliesaboutforty{14}milesdistantfromCopenhagen。Itformsabeautifulgroupofrocks，risingboldlyfromthesea。Theyarewhiteaschalk，andhaveasmoothandshiningappearance。Thehighestofthesewallsofrocktowers400feetabovethelevelofthesurroundingocean。SoonwesawthecoastofSweden，thentheislandofMalmo；andatlastCopenhagenitself，wherewelandedatfouro'clockintheafternoon。
ThedistancefromKieltoCopenhagenis136sea-miles。
IremainedsevendaysatCopenhagen，andshouldhavehadampletimetoseeeverything，hadtheweatherbeenmorefavourable。Butitblewandrainedsoviolently，thatIwasobligedtogiveupallthoughtsofvisitingthesurroundingparks，andwasfaintocontentmyselfwithseeingafewofthenearestwalks，whichIaccomplishedwithsomedifficulty。
ThefirststreetinCopenhagenwhichItraversedoncomingfromtheharbourgenerallyproducesagreatimpression。Itiscalledthe"BroadStreet，"andleadsfromtheharbourthroughthegreaterpartofthetown。Inadditiontoitsbreadthitisverylongandregular，andthesplendidpalacesandhousesoneithersidegiveitaremarkablygrandappearance。
Itisapeculiarsight，when，inthemidstofthisfinequarter，wecomesuddenlyuponaruin，agiantbuildingrestingonhugepillars，buthalfcompleted，andpartlycoveredwithmossandlichens。Itwasintendedforasplendidchurch，andisbuiltentirelyofmarble；
butthesoftgroundwouldnotbeartheimmenseweight。Thehalf-
finishedbuildingbegantosink，andthecompletionoftheundertakingbecameforeverimpossible。
Manyotherstreetsrivalthe"BroadStreet"insizeandmagnificence。ForemostamongthemcomestheAmalienstrasse。Themostbustling，butbyfarnotthefinest，aretheOsterandGotherstrasse。Towalkintheseisatfirstquiteadifficultundertakingforastranger。Ononesideofthepavement，whichisraisedaboutafootabovethecarriage-way，hecomescontinuallyincontactwithstairs，leadingsometimestowarehousesabove，atotherstosubterraneanwarehousesbelowthelevelofthestreet。
TheapproachestothelatterarenotguardedbyrailingsasinHamburgh。Theothersideofthepavementisboundedbyalittleunostentatiousrivulet，calledbyunpoeticalpeople"canal，"intowhichtributariesequallysweetpourfromalltheneighbouringhouses。Itisthereforenecessarytotakegreatcare，lestyoushouldfallintothetraitorousdepthsontheoneside，orstumbleovertheprojectingstepsontheother。Thepavementitselfiscoveredwitharowofstoneslabs，afootandahalfwide，onwhichonewalkscomfortablyenough。Buttheneverybodycontendsforthepossessionofthese，toavoidtheunevenandpointedstonesattheside。This，addedtothedreadfulcrowding，rendersthestreetonewhichwouldscarcelybechosenforawalk，thelesssoastheshopsdonotcontainanythinghandsome，thehousesareneitherpalace-
likenoreventastefullybuilt，andthestreetitselfisneitherofthebroadestnorofthecleanest。
Thesquaresarealllargeandregularlybuilt。ThefinestistheKongensnytorfKing'sNewMarket。Somefinemansions，thechiefguard-house，thetheatre，thechiefcoffee-housesandinns，theacademyofthefinearts，andthebuildingbelongingtothebotanicalgarden，thetwolastcommonlyknownbythenameof"Charlottenburg，"areamongtheornamentsofthismagnificentsquare，inthemidstofwhichstandsabeautifulmonument，representingChristianV。onhorseback，andsurroundedbyseveralfigures。
Smaller，butmorebeautifulinitsperfectsymmetry，isthe"Amalienplatz，"containingfourroyalpalaces，builtexactlyalike，andintersectedbyfourbroadstreetsintheformofacross。Thissquarealsoisdecoratedbyamonumentstandinginthemidst，andrepresentingFrederickV。Inanotherfinesquare，the"Nytorf"NewMarket，thereisafountain。Itslittlestatuesendsforthverymeagrejetsofwater，andthefountainismerelynoticeableasbeingtheonlyoneIcouldfindatCopenhagen。
Thetravellercanhardlyfailofbeingsurprisedbythenumberandmagnificenceofthepalaces，atsightofwhichhecouldfancyhimselfinthemetropolisofoneofthelargestkingdoms。The"Christianensburg"istrulyimperial；itwascompletelydestroyedbyfireintheyear1794，buthassincebeenrebuiltwithincreasedsplendour。Thechapelofthispalaceisveryremarkable。Theinteriorhastheappearanceratherofaconcert-roomthanofabuildingdevotedtopurposesofworship。Tastefullydecoratedboxes，amongwhichwenoticethatoftheking，togetherwithgalleries，occupytheupperpartofthechapel；thelowerisfilledwithbenchescoveredwithredvelvetandsilk。Thepulpitandaltararesoentirelywithoutdecoration，that，onfirstentering，theywhollyescapenotice。
Inthe"Christianensburg"isalsothe"NorthernMuseum，"peculiarlyrichinspecimensoftheornaments，weapons，musicalinstruments，andothermementoesofnorthernnations。
TheWinterRiding-school，inwhichconcertsarefrequentlygiven，islargeandsymmetrical。Iadmiredthestalls，andyetmorethegreyhorseswhichoccupiedthem——descendantsofthepureArabianandwildNorwegianbreeds——creatureswithlongmanesandtailsoffinesilkyhair。Everyonewhoseesthesehorses，whetherhebeaconnoisseuroroneoftheuninitiated，mustadmirethem。
Adjoiningthe"Christianensburg"isThorwaldsen'sMuseum，asquarebuildingwithfinesaloons，lightedfromabove。WhenIsawit，itwasnotcompleted；thewallswerebeingpaintedinfrescobysomeofthefirstnativeartists。Thesculpturedtreasureswerethere，butunfortunatelyyetunpacked。
InthemidstofthecourtyardThorwaldsen'smausoleumisbeingerected。Therehisasheswillrest，withhisexquisitelyfinishedlionasagravestoneabovethem。{15}
Thelargestamongthechurchesisthe"Woman'sChurch。"Thebuildinghasnoarchitecturalbeauty；thepillars，galleries，andcupolaareallofwood，coveredwithamixtureofsandandplaster。
Butwhatevermaybewantinginoutwardsplendouriscompensatedbyitscontents，forthischurchcontainsthemasterpiecesofThorwaldsen。AtthehighaltarstandshisgloriousfigureofourSaviour，inthenichesofthewallhiscolossaltwelveapostles。
Inthecontemplationoftheseworksweforgettheplainnessofthebuildingwhichcontainsthem。Maythefatesbeprosperous，andnoconflagrationreachthischurch，builtasitishalfofwood!
TheCatholicChurchissmall，buttastefulbeyondexpression。ThelateemperorofAustriapresentedtoitagoodfull-tonedorgan，andtwooil-paintings，onebyKuppelweiser，theotherbyapupilofthismaster。
Inthe"MuseumofArts"Iwasmostinterestedintheancientchair，usedindaysofyorebyTychodeBrahe。{16}
TheExchangeisacuriousancientbuilding。Itisverylongandnarrow，andsurmountedbyninepeaks，fromthecentreofwhichprotrudesaremarkablepointedtower，formedoffourcrocodiles'
tailsintertwined。
Thehallitselfissmall，low，anddark；itcontainsafull-lengthportraitinoilofTychodeBrahe。Nearlyalltheupperpartofthebuildingisconvertedintoakindofbazaar，andthelowerportioncontainsanumberofsmallanddingybooths。
Severalcanals，havinganoutletintothesea，giveapeculiarcharmtothetown。Theyare，infact，somanymarkets；forthecraftlyinginthemareladenwithprovisionsofallkinds，whicharehereofferedforsale。
TheSailors'Town，adjoiningCopenhagen，andsituatedneartheharbour，issingularlyneatandpretty。Itconsistsofthreelong，broad，straightstreets，builtofhouseslookingsoexactlyalike，thatonafoggynightanaccurateknowledgeofthelocalityisrequisitetoknowonefromtheother。Itlooksasthough，oneachsideoftheway，therewereonlyonelonghouseofasinglefloor，withabuildingonestoryhighinthemiddle。Inthelatterdwellthecommandantandoverseers。
ThelightingofthestreetsismanagedinCopenhageninthesamewayasinoursmallerGermantowns。When"moonlight"isannouncedinthecalendar，notalampislighted。Iftheladymoonchoosestohidebehinddarkclouds，thatisherfault。Itwouldbeinsolenttoattempttosupplytheplaceofherradiancewithmiserablelamps——awisearrangement!?
Ofthenearwalks，thegardenofthe"Rosenburg，"withinthetown，pleasedmemuch；asdidalsothe"LongLine，"analleyofbeautifultreesextendingparallelwiththesea，andinwhichonecaneitherwalkorride。Acoffee-house，infrontofwhichthereismusicinfineweather，attractsmanyoftheloungers。Themostbeautifulplaceofallisthe"Kastell，"abovethe"LongLine，"fromwhenceonecanenjoyabeautifulview。Thetownliesdisplayedbelowinallitsmagnificence:theharbour，withitsmanyships；thesparklingblueSound，whichspreadsitsbroadexpansebetweenthecoastsofDenmarkandSweden，andwashesmanyabeautifulgroupofislandsbelongingtooneortheotherofthesecountries。Thebackgroundofthepicturealoneisuninteresting，asthereisnochainofmountainstoformahorizon，andtheeyewandersovertheboundlessflatsofDenmark。
AmongthevesselslyingatanchorintheharbourIsawbutfewthree-masters，andstillfewersteamers。Theshipsofthefleetpresentedacuriousappearance；atthefirstviewtheylooklikegreathouseswithflag-staves，foreveryshipisprovidedwitharoof，outofwhichthemastsriseintotheair；theyarebesidesveryhighoutofthewater，sothatalltheport-holesandthewindowsofthecabinsappearintwoorthreestories，oneabovetheother。
Asomewhatmoredistantexcursion，whichcanbeveryconvenientlymadeinacapitalomnibus，takesyoutotheroyalchateau"Friedrichsberg，"lyingbeforethewater-gate，twomilesdistantfromthetown。Splendidavenuesleadtothisplace，wherearetobefoundallthedelightsthatcancombinetodrawacitizenintothecountry。Thereareativoli，arailway，cabinets，andboothswithwax-figures，andcountlessothersights，besidescoffee-houses，beer-rooms，andmusic。Thegardensareplantedatthesideswithanumberofsmallarbours，eachcontainingatableand。chairs，andallopeninfront，soastoshewatoneviewallthevisitorsoftheseprettynaturalhuts。OnSundays，whenthegardensarecrowded，thisisaveryanimatedsight。
Onthewaytothis"Prater"ofCopenhagen，wepassmanyhandsomevillas，eachstandinginafinegarden。
Theroyalpalaceissituatedonthesummitofahill，attheendoftheavenue，andissurroundedbyabeautifulpark；itcommandsaviewofagreatportionofthetown，withthesurroundingcountryandthesea；stillIfarprefertheprospectfromthe"Kastell。"
TheParkcontainsaconsiderableisland，which，duringsomepartoftheyear，standsinthemidstofanextensivelake。ThisislandisappropriatedtotheCourt，buttherestoftheparkisopentothepublic。
Immediatelyoutsidethewater-gatestandsanobelisk，remarkableneitherforitsbeautynorfortheskilldisplayedinitserection，foritconsistsofvariousstones，andisnothigh，butinterestingfromthecircumstancetowhichitowesitsorigin。ItwaserectedbyhisgratefulsubjectsinmemoryofthelatekingChristianVII。，tocommemoratetheabolitionoffeudalservice。Surelynofeelingpersoncancontemplatewithoutjoyfulemotionamonumentlikethis。
IhaveheregivenafaithfulaccountofwhatIsawduringmyshortstayatCopenhagen。Itonlyremainsformetodescribeafewpeculiarcustomsofthepeople，andsoIwillbeginasitwereattheend，withtheburialofthedead。InDenmark，asinfactinthewholeofScandinavia，notexceptingIceland，itiscustomarynottoburythedeaduntileightortendayshaveelapsed。Inwinter-timethisisnotofsomuchconsequence，butinsummeritisfarfromhealthyforthoseunderthesameroofwiththecorpse。IwaspresentatCopenhagenatthefuneralofDr。Brandis，physiciantotheking。Twooftheking'scarriagesandanumberofprivateequipagesattended。Nearlyallthesewereempty，andtheservantswalkedbesidethem。AmongthemournersIdidnotnoticeasinglewoman；Isupposedthatthiswasonlythecaseatthefuneralsofgentlemen，butoninquiryIfoundthatthesameruleisobservedattheburialofwomen。Thisconsiderationfortheweakersexiscarriedsofar，thatonthedayofthefuneralnowomanmaybeseeninthehouseofmourning。Themournersassembleinthehouseofthedeceased，andpartakeofcoldrefreshments。Attheconclusionoftheceremonytheyareagainregaled。WhatparticularlypleasedmeinCopenhagenwas，thatIneveronanyoccasionsawbeggars，orevensuchmiserablycladpeopleasarefoundonlytoofrequentlyinourgreatcities。Heretherearenodoubtpoorpeople，astherearesucheverywhereelseintheworld，butonedoesnotseethembeg。
Icannothelpmentioninganarrangementwhichcertainlydeservestobeuniversallycarriedout；——Imean，thesettingapartofmanylargehouses，partlybelongingtotheroyalfamily，partlytorichprivatepeopleortocompanies，forthereceptionofpoorpeople，whoareherelodgedatamuchcheaperratethanispossibleinordinarydwellings。
Thecostumesofthepeasantsdidnotparticularlypleaseme。Thewomenweardressesofgreenorblackwoollenstuff，reachingtotheankle，andtrimmedattheskirtwithbroadcolouredwoollenborders。
Theseamsofthespenser，andthearm-holes，arealsotrimmedwithsmallercolouredborders。Ontheirheadstheywearahandkerchief，andoverthisakindofshade，likeabonnet。OnSundaysIsawmanyoftheminsmall，prettycaps，workedwithsilk，withaborderoflaceofmorethanahand'sbreadth，plaitedverystiffly；atthebacktheyhavelargebowsoffineriband，theendsofwhichreachhalfdowntotheirfeet。Ifoundnothingveryremarkableinthedressofthepeasants。Asfarasstrengthandbeautywereconcerned，IthoughtthesepeasantswereneithermorenorlessgiftedthanthoseofAustria。Asregardsthebeautyofthefairsex，IshouldcertainlygivethepreferencetotheAustrians。Fairhairandblueeyespredominate。
Isawbutfewsoldiers；theiruniforms，particularlythosewornbytheking'slife-guards，areveryhandsome。
Iespeciallynoticedthedrummers；theywerealllittleladsoftenortwelveyearsold。Onecouldalmosthaveexclaimed，"Drum，whitherartthoucarryingthatboy?"Tomarch，andtojoininfatiguingmanoeuvres，carryingsuchadrum，andbeatingitbravelyatthesametime，israthercruelworkforsuchyounglads。Manyaruinedconstitutionmaybeascribedtothiscustom。
DuringmystayinCopenhagenIspentmanyverydelightfulhourswithProfessorMariboeandhisamiablefamily，andwiththekindclergymanoftheembassy，HerrZimmermann。Theyreceivedmewithtruepolitenessandhospitality，anddrewmeintotheircircle，whereIsoonfeltmyselfquiteatease。Ishallneverforgettheirfriendship，andshallmakeuseofeveryopportunitytoshewthemmyappreciationofit。HerrEdouardGottschalkandHerrKnudsonhavealsomybestthanks。IappliedtothefirstofthesegentlementoprocuremeapassagetoIceland，andhewaskindenoughtousehisinterestwithHerrKnudsononmybehalf。
HerrKnudsonisoneofthefirstgeneraldealersinCopenhagen，andcarriesonalargerandmoreextendedcommercewithIcelandthananyotherhousetradingthither。Heisalreadybeginningtoretire，asthecontinualjourneysarebecomingirksometohim；buthestillownsanumberofgreatandsmallvessels，whicharepartlyemployedinthefisheries，andpartlyinbringingallkindsofarticlesofconsumptionandluxurytothedifferentharboursofIceland。
Hehimselfgoesinoneofhisshipseveryyear，andstaysafewmonthsinIcelandtosettlehisaffairsthere。OntherecommendationofHerrGottschalk，HerrKnudsonwaskindenoughtogivemeapassageintheshipinwhichhemadethejourneyhimself；
afavourwhichIknewhowtovalue。Itiscertainlynosmallkindnesstotakealadypassengeronsuchajourney。HerrKnudsonknewneithermyfortitudenormyperseverance；hedidnotknowwhetherIshouldbeabletoendurethehardshipsofajourneytothenorth，whetherIwouldbearsea-sicknessphilosophically，orevenifIhadcourageenough，incaseofstormsorbadweather，toabstainfromannoyingthecaptainbymyfearsorcomplaintsatatimewhenhewouldonlyhavetoomuchtoharasshim。Thekindmanallowednosuchconsiderationstoinfluencehim。HebelievedmewhenI
promisedtobehavecourageouslycomewhatmight，andtookmewithhim。IndeedhiskindnesswentsofarthatitistohimIoweeverycomfortIenjoyedinIceland，andeveryassistanceinfurtheringtheattainmentofmyjourney'sobject。Icouldcertainlynothavecommencedavoyageunderbetterauspices。
AllshipsvisitingIcelandleaveCopenhagenattheendofApril，oratthelatestinthemiddleofMay。Afterthistimeonlyoneshipisdespatched，tocarrythemailsoftheDanishgovernment。ThisvesselleavesCopenhageninOctober，remainsinIcelandduringthewintermonths，andreturnsinMarch。ThegainorlossofthisexpeditionisdistributedinsharesamongthemerchantsofCopenhagen。
Besidesthis，aFrenchfrigatecomestoIcelandeveryspring，andcruisesamongthedifferentharboursuntilthemiddleofAugust。
Shesuperintendsthefishingvessels，which，attractedbythelargeprofitsofthefisheries，visittheseseasingreatnumbersduringthesummer。{17}
OpportunitiesofreturningfromIcelandoccurduringthesummeruntiltheendofSeptember，bymeansofthemerchant-ships，whichcarryfreightsfromtheislandtoDenmark，England，andSpain。
Atlength，onSundaythe4thofMay，afavourablewindsprungup。
HerrKnudsonsentmewordtobereadytoembarkatnoononboardthefinebrigJohn。
Iimmediatelyproceededonboard。Theanchorwasweighed，andthesails，unfoldingthemselveslikegiantwings，waftedusgentlyoutoftheharbourofCopenhagen。Nopartingfromchildren，relations，orold-cherishedfriendsembitteredthishour。WithagladheartI
badeadieutothecity，inthejoyfulhopesoontoseethefulfilmentofmylong-expectedjourney。
Thebrightskysmiledaboveus，andamostfavourablewindfilledoursails。Isatondeckandrevelledinthecontemplationofscenessonewtome。Behinduslayspreadthemajestictown；beforeustheSound，animmensenaturalbasin，whichIcouldalmostcomparetoagreatSwisslake；ontherightandleftwerethecoastsofSwedenandDenmark，whichhereapproacheachothersocloselythattheyseemtoopposeabarriertothefurtherprogressoftheadventurousvoyager。
SoonwepassedthelittleSwedishtownofCarlscrona，andthedesolateislandHveen，onwhichTychodeBrahepassedthegreaterportionofhislife，occupiedwithstellarobservationsandcalculations。Nowcameasomewhatdangerouspart，andonewhichcalledintoactionallthecarefulseamanshipofthecaptaintobringussafelythroughtheconfinedseaandthestrongcurrent，——
theentranceoftheSoundintotheCattegat。
Thetwocoastshereapproachtowithinamileofeachother。OntheSwedishsideliestheprettylittletownofHelsingborg，ontheDanishsidethatofHelsingor，andattheextremityofaprojectingneckoflandthefortressKronburg，whichdemandsatollofeverypassingship，andshewsalargerowofthreateningcannonincaseofnon-compliance。OurtollhadalreadybeenpaidbeforeleavingCopenhagen；wehadbeenaccuratelysignalled，andsailedfearlesslyby。{18}
Theentranceoncepassed，weenteredtheCattegat，whichalreadylookedmorelikethegreatocean:thecoastsretiredoneachside，andmostoftheshiftsandbarques，whichtillnowhadhoveredaroundusonallsides，badeus"farewell。"Somebenttheircoursetowardstheeast，otherstowardsthewest；andwealone，onthebroaddesertocean，setsailfortheicynorth。Twilightdidnotsetinuntil9o'clockatnight；andonthecoaststheflamingbeaconsflashedup，towarnthebenightedmarineroftheproximityofdangerousrocks。
InowofferedupmythanksgivingtoHeavenfortheprotectionhithertovouchsafedme，withahumbleprayerforitscontinuance。
ThenIdescendedtothecabin，whereIfoundaconvenientbunkakindofcribfixedtothesideoftheship；Ilaidmyselfdown，andwassooninadeepandrefreshingsleep。
Iawokefullofhealthandspirits，which，however，Ienjoyedbutforashorttime。Duringthenightwehadleftbehindusthe"Cattegat"andthe"Skagerrack，"andweredrivingthroughthestormyGermanOcean。Ahighwind，whichincreasedalmosttoagale，tumbledourpoorshipaboutinsuchamanner，thatnonebutagooddancercouldhopetomaintainanuprightposition。IhadunfortunatelybeenfrommyyouthnovotaryofTerpsichore，andwhatwasItodo?Thenaiadsofthisstormyregionseizedme，andbandiedmetoandfro，untiltheythrewmeintothearmsofwhatwas，accordingtomyexperience，ifnotexactlyafterSchiller'sinterpretation，"thehorribleofhorrors，"——sea-sickness。AtfirstItooklittleheedofthis，thinkingthatsea-sicknesswouldsoonbeovercomebyatravellerlikemyself，whoshouldbeinuredtoeverything。ButinvaindidIbearup；Ibecameworseandworse，tillI
wasatlengthobligedtoremaininmyberthwithbutoneconsolingthought，namely，thatwewereto-dayontheopensea，wheretherewasnothingworthyofnotice。ButthefollowingdaytheNorwegiancoastwasinsight，andatallhazardsImustseeit；soIcrawledondeckmoredeadthanalive，lookedatarowofmountainsofmoderateelevation，theirtopsatthisearlyseasonstillsparklingwiththeirsnowycovering，andthenhurriedback，benumbedbythepiercingicywind，tomygoodwarmfeather-bed。Thosewhohaveneverexperienceditcanhavenoconceptionofthebiting，penetratingcoldnessofagaleofwindinthenorthernseas。Thesunshonehighintheheavens；thethermometerIalwayscalculateaccordingtoReaumurstood3degreesabovezero；IwasdressedmuchmorewarmlythanIshouldhavethoughtnecessarywhen，inmyfatherland，thethermometerwas8degreesor10degreesBELOWzero，andyetIfeltchilledtotheheart，andcouldhavefanciedthatI
hadnoclothesonatall。
OnthefourthnightwesailedsafelypasttheShetlandIslands；andontheeveningofthefifthdaywepassedsonearthemajesticrockygroupoftheFeroeIslands，thatwewereatonetimeapprehensiveofbeingcastupontherocksbytheunceasinggale。{19}
AlreadyontheseventhdaywedescriedthecoastofIceland。Ourpassagehadbeenunprecedentedlyquick；thesailorsdeclaredthatafavourablegalewastobepreferredeventosteam，andthatonourpresentvoyageweshouldcertainlyhavelefteverysteamerinourwake。ButI，wretchedbeingthatIwas，wouldgladlyhavedispensedwiththeservicesbothofgaleandsteamforthesakeofafewhours'rest。Myillnessincreasedsomuch，thatontheseventhdayIthoughtImustsuccumb。Mylimbswerebathedinacoldperspiration；Iwasasweakasaninfant，andmymouthfeltparchedanddry。IsawthatImustnoweithermakeagreateffortorgiveupentirely；soIrousedmyself，andwiththeassistanceofthecabin-boygainedaseat，andpromisedtotakeanyandeveryremedywhichshouldberecommended。Theygavemehot-watergruelwithwineandsugar；butitwasnotenoughtobeobligedtoforcethisdown，I
wasfurthercompelledtoswallowsmallpiecesofrawbaconhighlypeppered，andevenamouthfulofrum。Ineednotsaywhatstrongdeterminationwasrequiredtomakemesubmittosucharegimen。I
had，however，butonechoice，eithertoconquermyrepugnanceorgivemyselfupavictimtosea-sickness；sowithallpatienceandresignationIreceivedtheprofferedgifts，andfound，afteratrialofmanyhours，thatIcouldmanagetoretainasmalldose。Thisphysickingwascontinuedfortwolong，longdays，andthenIbeganslowlytorecover。
Ihaveherecircumstantiallydescribedbothmyillnessanditscure，becausesomanypeopleareunfortunatelyvictimstothecomplaint，andwhenunderitsinfluencecannotsummonresolutiontotakesustenance。IshouldadviseallmyfriendsnottoholdoutsolongasIdid，buttotakefoodatonce，andcontinuetodosountilthesystemwillreceiveit。
AsIwasnowconvalescent，Itriedtorecruitmyweariedmindbyadiligentstudyofthemodeoflifeandcustomsofthemarinersofthenorthernseas。
Ourship'scompanyconsistedofHerrKnudson，HerrBrugeamerchantwhomweweretolandattheWestmannIslands，thecaptain，themate，andsixorsevensailors。Ourmodeoflifeinthecabinwasasfollows:inthemorning，atseveno'clock，wetookcoffee，butwhencethiscoffeecame，heavenknows!Idrankitforelevendays，andcouldneverdiscoveranythingwhichmightserveasaclueinmyattempttodiscoverthecountryofitsgrowth。Atteno'clockwehadamealconsistingofbreadandbutterandcheese，withcoldbeeforpork，allexcellentdishesforthoseinhealth；thesecondcourseofthismorningmealwas"tea-water。"InScandinavia，bytheway，theyneversay，"IdrinkTEA，"theword"water"isalwaysadded:"I
drinkTEA-WATER。"Our"tea-water"was，ifpossible，worsethanitspredecessor，theincomparablecoffee。ThusIwasbeatenatallpoints；theeatablesweretoostrongforme，thedrinkablestoo——
too——Icanfindnoappropriateepithet——probablytooartificial。I
consoledmyselfwiththeprospectofdinner；but，alas，toosoonthissweetvisionfadedintothinair!OnthesixthdayImademyfirstappearanceatthecoveredtable，andcouldnothelpatonceremarkingtheclothwhichhadbeenspreadoverit。Atthecommencementofourjourneyitmightperhapshavebeenwhite；nowitwasmostcertainlynolongerofthatsnowyhue。Thecontinualpitchingandrollingoftheshiphadcausedeachdishtosetitspeculiarstampuponthecloth。Asortofwoodennetworkwasnowlaiduponit，intheintersticesofwhichtheplatesandglasseswereset，andthussecuredfromfalling。Butbeforeplacingitonthetable，ourworthycabin-boytookeachplateandglassseparately，andpolisheditonatowelwhichhungnear，andincolourcertainlyratherresemblingthedingyfloorofthecabinthanthebight-huedrainbow。Thiscouldstillhavebeenendured，butthearticleinquestionreallydiddutyASATOWELinthemorning，beforeextendingitssalutaryinfluenceoverplatesandglassesfortheremainderoftheday。
Onmakingdiscoveriessuchasthese，Iwouldmerelyturnawaymyeyes，andtrytothinkthatperhapsMYGLASSandMYPLATEwouldbemoredelicatelymanipulated，orprobablyescapealtogether；andthenIwouldturnmywholeattentiontotheexpecteddishes。
Firstcamesoup；butinsteadofgravy-soup，itwaswater-soup，withriceanddriedplums。This，whenmingledwithredwineandsugar，formedamostexquisitedishforDanishappetites，butitcertainlydidnotsuitmine。Thesecondandconcludingcourseconsistedofalargepieceofbeef，withwhichIhadnofaulttofind，exceptthatitwastooheavyforoneinmyweakstateofhealth。Atsupperwehadthesamedishesasatdinner，andeachmealwasfollowedby"tea-water。"AtfirstIcouldnotfancythisbilloffareatall；
butwithinafewdaysaftermyconvalesence，Ihadaccustomedmyselftoit，andcouldbearthesea-dietverywell。{20}
Astherichownerofthevesselwasonboard，therewasnolackofthebestwines，andfeweveningspassedonwhichabowlofpunchwasnotemptied。Therewas，however，areasonfoundwhyeverybottleofwineorbowlofpunchshouldbedrunk:forinstance，atourembarkation，todrinkthehealthofthefriendswewereleaving，andtohopeforaquickandprosperousvoyage；then，whenthewindwasfavourable，itshealthwasdrunk，withtherequestthatitwouldremainso；whenitwascontrary，withtherequestthatitwouldchange；whenwesawland，wesaluteditwithaglassofwine，orperhapswithseveral，butIwastooilltocount；whenwelostsightofit，wedrankafarewellglasstoitshealth:sothateverydaybroughtwithitthreeorfourdistinctandseparateoccasionsfordrinkingwine。{21}
Thesailorsdranktea-waterwithoutsugareverymorningandevening，withtheadditionofaglassofbrandy；fordinnertheyhadpease，beans，barley，orpotatoes，withsaltedcod，bacon，"orjunk；"goodsea-biscuittheycouldgetwhenevertheychose。
Thedietisnottheworstpartofthesepoorpeople'shardships。
Theirlifemaybecalledacontinualfightagainsttheelements；foritispreciselyduringthemostdreadfulstorms，withrainandpiercingcold，thattheyhavetobecontinuallyupondeck。Icouldnotsufficientlyadmirethecoolness，orratherthecheerfulnessandalacritywithwhichtheyfulfilledtheironerousduties。Andwhatrewardhavethey?Scantypay，forfoodthedietIhavejustdescribed，andfortheirsleeping-placethesmallestandmostinconvenientpartoftheship，adarkplacefrequentlyinfestedwithvermin，andsmellingoffensivelyfrombeinglikewiseusedasareceptacleforoil-colours，varnish，tar，salt-fish，&c。&c。