Thepalaceisbuiltinasplendidstyle,butisunfortunatelyquiteuseless,asthecourthasbeautifulsummer-palacesintheneighbourhoodofPotsdam,andspendsthewinterinBerlin。
Thecastlesquareisnotverygood;itisneitherlargenorregular,andnotevenlevel。Onitstandsthelargechurch,whichisnotyetcompleted,butpromisestobeafinestructure。Thetownistolerablylarge,andhasmanyfinehouses。Thestreets,especiallytheNaunerStreet,arewideandlong,butbadlypaved;thestonesarelaidwiththepointedsideupwards,andforfoot-passengersthereisastonepavementtwofeetbroadononesideofthestreetonly。ThepromenadeofthetownspeopleiscalledAmKanalbesidethecanal,andisafinesquare,throughwhichthecanalflows,andisornamentedwithtrees。
Oftheroyalpleasure-palacesIvisitedthatofSansSoucifirst。
Itissurroundedbyaprettypark,andliesonahill,whichisdividedintosixterraces。Largeconservatoriesstandoneachsideofthese;andinfrontofthemarelongalleysoforangeandlemon-
trees。
Thepalacehasonlyagroundfloor,andissurroundedbyarbours,trees,andvines,sothatitisalmostconcealedfromview。Icouldnotinspecttheinterior,astheroyalfamilywaslivingthere。
Aside-pathleadsfromheretotheRuinenberg,onwhichtheruinsofalargerandasmallertemple,raisedbythehandofart,aretastefullydisposed。Thetopofthehillistakenupbyareservoirofwater。FromthispointonecanseethebackofthepalaceofSansSouci,andtheso-callednewpalace,separatedfromtheformerbyasmallpark,anddistantonlyaboutaquarterofanhour。
Thenewpalace,builtbyFredericktheGreat,isassplendidasonecanimagine。Itformsalengthenedsquare,witharabesquesandflatcolumns,andhasaflatroof,whichissurroundedbyastonebalustrade,andornamentedbystatues。
Theapartmentsarehighandlarge,andsplendidlypainted,tapestried,andfurnished。Oil-paintings,manyofthemverygood,coverthewalls。Onemightfillavolumewiththedescriptionofallthewondersofthisplace,whichis,however,notinhabited。
Behindthepalace,andseparatedfromitbyalargecourt,aretwobeautifullittlepalaces,connectedbyacrescent-shapedhallofpillars;broadstonestepsleadtothebalconiessurroundingthefirststoryoftheedifices。Theyareusedasbarracks,andare,assuch,themostbeautifulIhaveeverseen。
FromhereapleasantwalkleadstothelovelypalaceofCharlottenburg。Comingfromthelargenewpalaceitseemedtoosmallforthedwellingevenofthecrown-prince。Ishouldhavetakenitforasplendidpavilionattachedtothenewpalace,towhichtheroyalfamilysometimeswalked,andperhapsremainedtheretotakerefreshment。ButwhenIhadinspecteditmoreclosely,andseenallthecomfortablelittlerooms,furnishedwithsuchtastefulluxury,Ifeltthatthecrown-princecouldnothavemadeabetterchoice。
Beautifulfountainsplayontheterraces;thewallsofthecorridorsandanteroomsarecoveredwithsplendidfrescoes,inimitationofthosefoundinPompeii。Theroomsaboundinexcellentengravings,paintings,andotherworksofart;andthegreatesttasteandsplendourisdisplayedevenintheminorarrangements。
AprettyChinesechiosque,filledwithgoodstatues,whichhavebeenunfortunatelymuchdamagedandbroken,standsnearthepalace。
Thesethreebeautifulroyalresidencesaresituatedinparks,whicharesounitedthattheyseemonlyasone。Theparksarefilledwithfinetrees,andverdantfieldscrossedbywell-keptpathsanddrives;butIsawveryfewflower-bedsinthem。
WhenIhadcontemplatedeverythingatleisure,IreturnedtothepalaceofSansSouci,toseethebeautifulfountains,whichplaytwiceaweek,onTuesdayandFriday,fromnoontillevening。Thecolumnsprojectedfromthebasininfrontofthecastlearesovoluminous,andrisewithsuchforce,thatIgazedinamazementattheartifice。Itisrealpleasuretobenearthebasinwhenthesunshinesinitsfullsplendour,formingthemostbeautifulrainbowsinthefallingshowerofdrops。Equallybeautifulisafountainrisingfromahighvase,enwreathedbylivingflowers,andfallingoverit,sothatitformsaquick,briskfountain,transparent,andpureasthefinestcrystal。Thelidofthevase,alsoenwreathedwithgrowingflowers,risesabovethefountain。TheNeptune'sgrottoisofnogreatbeauty;thewaterfallsfromanurnplacedoverit,andformslittlewaterfallsasitflowsovernautilus-shells。
ThemarblepalaceliesontheothersideofPotsdam,andishalfanhour'sdistancefromthesepalaces;butIhadtimeenoughtovisitit。
Enteringtheparkbelongingtothispalace,arowofneatpeasants'
cottagesisseenontheleft;theyareallalike,butseparatedbyfruit,flower,orkitchen-gardens。Thepalaceliesattheextremeendofthepark,onaprettylakeformedbytheriverHavel。Itcertainlyhassomerighttothenameofmarblepalace;butitseemspresumptiontocallitsowhencomparedtothemarblepalacesofVenice,orthemarblemosquesofConstantinople。
Thewallsofthebuildingareofbrickleftinitsnaturalcolour。
Thelowerandupperframe-work,thewindow-sashes,andtheportals,areallofmarble。Thepalaceispartlysurroundedbyagallerysupportedonmarblecolumns。Thestairsareoffinewhitemarble,andmanyoftheapartmentsarelaidwiththismineral。Theinteriorisnotnearlysoluxuriousastheotherpalaces。
ThiswasthelastofthesightsIsawinPotsdamortheenvironsofBerlin;forIcontinuedmyjourneytoViennaonthefollowingday。
BeforequittingBerlin,Imustmentionanarrangementwhichisparticularlyconvenientforstrangers——namely,thefaresforhackney-carriages。Oneneedasknoquestions,butmerelyenterthecarriage,tellthecoachmanwheretodrive,andpayhimsix-pence。
Thismoderatefareisforthewholetown,whichissomewhatextensive。Atalltherailwaystationstherearenumbersofthesevehicles,whichwilldrivetoanyhotel,howeverfaritmaybefromthestation,forthesamemoderatefare。Ifonlyallcab-driversweresoaccommodating!
October1st。
TherailwaygoesthroughLeipzictoDresden,whereItookthemail-
coachforPragueateighto'clockthesameevening,andarrivedthereineighteenhours。
Asitwasnightwhenwepassed,wedidnotenjoythebeautifulviewsoftheNollendorfmountain。Inthemorningwepassedtwohandsomemonuments,oneofthem,apyramidfifty-fourfeethigh,tothememoryofCountColloredo,theothertothememoryoftheRussiantroopswhohadfallenhere;bothhavebeenerectedsincethewarsofNapoleon。
Onwewentthroughcharmingdistrictstothefamedbathing-placeTeplitz,whichissurroundedbythemostbeautifulscenery;andcanbearcomparisonwiththefinestbathing-placesoftheworld。
Furtheronwepassedasolitarybasalticrock,Boren,whichdeservesattentionforitsbeautyandasanaturalcuriosity。Weunfortunatelyhurriedpastit,aswewishedtoreachPraguebeforesixo'clock,sothatwemightnotmissthetraintoVienna。
MyreadersmayimagineourdisappointmentonarrivingatthegatesofPrague,whenourpassportsweretakenfromusandnotreturned。
Invainwereferredtotheviseoftheboundary-townPeterswalde;invainwespokeofourhaste。Theansweralwayswas,"Thatisnothingtous;youcanhaveyourpapersbackto-morrowatthepolice-
office。"Thuswewereputoff,andlosttwenty-fourhours。
ImustmentionalittlejokeIhadontheridefromDresdentoPrague。Twogentlemenandaladybesidemyselfoccupiedthemail-
coach;theladyhappenedtohavereadmydiaryofPalestine,andaskedme,whensheheardmyname,ifIwerethattraveller。WhenI
hadacknowledgedIwasthatsameperson,ourconversationturnedonthatandonmypresentjourney。Oneofthegentlemen,HerrKatze,wasveryintelligent,andconversedinamostinterestingmanneroncountries,nationalities,andscientificsubjects。Theothergentlemanwasprobablyequallywellinformed,buthemadelessuseofhisacquirements。HerrKatzeremainedinTeplitz,andtheothergentlemanproceededwithustoVienna。Beforearrivingatourdestination,heaskedmeifHerrKatzehadnotrequestedmetomentionhisnameinmynextbook,andadded,thatifIwouldpromisetodothesame,hewouldtellmehisname。Icouldnotrefrainfromsmiling,butassuredhimthatHerrKatzehadnotthoughtofsuchathing,andbeggedhimnottocommunicatehisnametome,sothathemightseethatwefemaleswerenotsocuriousaswearesaidtobe。
Butthepoormancouldnotrefrainfromgivingmehisname——NicholasB——beforeweparted。Idonotinsertitfortworeasons:first,becauseIdidnotpromisetonamehim;andsecondly,becauseIdonotthinkitwoulddohimanyservice。
TherailwayfromPraguetoViennagoesoverOlmutz,andmakessuchaconsiderableround,thatthedistanceisnownearly320miles,andthearrangementsontherailwayareveryimperfect。
Therewerenohotelserectedontheroad,andwehadtobecontentwithfruit,beer,bread,andbutter,&c。thewholetime。Andtheseprovisionswerenoteasilyobtained,aswecouldnotventuretoleavethecarriages。Theconductorcalledoutateverystationthatweshouldgoondirectly,althoughthetrainfrequentlystoodupwardsofhalfanhour;butaswedidnotknowthatbefore,wewereobligedtoremainonourseats。Theconductorswerenotofthemostamiablecharacter,whichmayperhapsbeascribedtotheclimate;forwhenweapproachedtheboundaryoftheAustrianstatesatPeterswalde,theinspectorreceivedusverygruffly。Wewishedhimgoodeveningtwice,buthetooknonoticeofit,anddemandedourpapersinaloudandperemptorytone;heprobablythoughtusasdeafaswethoughthim。AtGanserndorf,twenty-fivemilesfromVienna,theytookourpapersfromusinaveryuncivil,uncourteousmanner。
Onthe4thofOctober,1845,afteranabsenceofsixmonths,I
arrivedagaininsightofthedearStephen'ssteeple,asmostofmycountrywomenwouldsay。
Ihadsufferedmanyhardships;butmyloveoftravellingwouldnothavebeenabated,norwouldmycouragehavefailedme,hadtheybeententimesgreater。Ihadbeenamplycompensatedforall。Ihadseenthingswhichneveroccurinourcommonlife,andhadmetwithpeopleastheyarerarelymetwith——intheirnaturalstate。AndI
broughtbackwithmetherecollectionsofmytravels,whichwillalwaysremain,andwhichwillaffordmerenewedpleasureforyears。
AndnowItakeleaveofmydearreaders,requestingthemtoacceptwithindulgencemydescriptions,whicharealwaystrue,thoughtheymaynotbeamusing。IfIhave,asIcanscarcelyhope,affordedthemsomeamusement,Itrusttheywillinreturngrantmeasmallcornerintheirmemories。
Inconclusion,IbegtoaddanAppendix,whichmaynotbeuninterestingtomanyofmyreaders,namely:
1。AdocumentwhichIprocuredinReikjavik,givingthesalariesoftheroyalDanishofficials,andthesourcesfromwhencetheyarepaid。
2。AlistofIcelandicinsects,butterflies,flowers,andplants,whichIcollectedandbroughthomewithme。
APPENDIXA
SalariesoftheRoyalDanishOfficialsinIceland,whichtheyreceivefromtheIcelandicland-revenues。
Florins{58}
TheGovernorofIceland2000
Officeexpenses600
Thedeputyforthewesterndistrict1586
Officeexpenses400
Rent200
Thedeputyforthenorthernandeasterndistricts1286
Officeexpenses400
ThebishopofIceland,whodrawshissalaryfromtheschool-revenues,haspaidhimfromthistreasury800
ThemembersoftheSupremeCourt:
Onejudge1184
Firstassessor890
Secondassessor740
Theland-bailiffofIceland600
Officeexpenses200
Rent150
Thetown-bailiffofReikjavik300
Thefirstpolice-officerofReikjavik,whoisatthesametimegaoler,andthereforehas50fl。morethanthesecondofficer200
Thesecondpolice-officer150
ThemayorofReikjavikonlydrawsfromthistreasuryhishouse-rent,whichis15O
ThesysselmanoftheWestmannsIslands296
Theothersysselmen,each230
Medicaldepartmentandmidwifery:
Thephysician900
House-rent150
ApothecaryofReikjavik185
House-rent150
ThesecondapothecaryatSikkisholm90
Sixsurgeonsinthecountry,each300
House-rentforsome30
Forothers25
AmedicalpractitionerontheNorthland110
Reikjavikhastwomidwives,eachreceives50
TheothermidwivesinIceland,amountingtothirty,eachreceives100
Thesemidwivesareinstructedandexaminedbythelandphysician,whohasthechargeofpayingthemannually。
OrganistofReikjavik100
Fromtheschool-revenuesThebishopreceives1200
Theteachersatthehighschool:
Theteacheroftheology800
Theheadassistant,besidesfreelodging500
Thesecondassistant500
House-rent50
Thethirdassistant500
House-rent50
Theresidentattheschool170
LISTOFINVERTEBRATEDANIMALScollectedinIceland1。CRUSTACEA。
PagarusBernhardus,Linnaeus。
2。INSECTA。
a。Coleoptera。Nebriarubripes,Dejean。Patrobushyperboreus。
Calathusmelanocephalus,Fabr。Notiophilusaquaticus。Amaravulgaris,Duftsihm。Ptinusfur,Linn。AphodiusLapponum,Schh。
Otiorhynchuslaevigatus,Dhl。OtiorhynchusPinastri,Fabr。
Otiorhynchusovatus。Staphylinusmaxillosus。Byrrhuspillula。
b。Neuroptera。Limnophiluslineola,Schrank。
c。Hymenoptera。Pimplainstigator,Gravh。Bombussubterraneus,Linn。
d。Lepidoptera。Geometrarussata,Hub。Geom。alchemillata。
Geom。spec。nov。
e。Diptera。Tipulalunata,Meig。Scatophagastercoraria。Muscavomitaria。Muscamortuorum。Helomyzaserrata。Lecogasterislandicus,Scheff。{59}Anthomyiadecolor,Fallin。
LISTOFICELANDICPLANTScollectedbyIdaPfeifferintheSummeroftheyear1845
Felices。Cystopterisfragilis。
Equisetaceae。EquisetumTeltamegra。
Graminae。Festucauniglumis。
Cyperaceae。Careafiliformis。Careacaespitosa。Eriophorumcaespitosum。
Juncaceae。Luzulaspicata。Luzulacampestris。
Salicineae。Salixpolaris。
Polygoneae。Remuxarifolus。Oxyriareniformes。
Plumbagineae。Armeriaalpinaintheinteriormountainousdistricts。
Compositae。Chrysanthemummaritimumonthesea-shore,andonmarshyfields。Hieraciumalpinumongrassyplains。Taraxacumalpinum。ErigeronuniflorumwestofHavenfiord,onrockysoil。
Rubiaceae。Galliumpusillum。Galliumverum。
Labiatae。Thynusserpyllum。
Asperifoliae。Myosotisalpestris。Myosotisscorpioicles。
Scrophularineae。Bartsiaalpinaintheinteriornorth-westernvalleys。Rhinanthusalpestris。
Utricularieae。Pinguiculaalpina。Pinguiculavulgaris。
Umbelliferae。ArchangelicaofficinalisHavenfiord。
Saxifrageae。SaxifragacaespitosatherealLinnaeanplant:onrocksroundHecla。
Ranunculaceae。Ranunculusauricomus。Ranunculusnivalis。
Thalictrumalpinumgrowingbetweenlava,nearReikjavik。Calthapalustris。
Cruciferae。Drabaverna。Cardaminepratensis。
Violariceae。Violahirta。
Caryophylleae。Saginastricta。Cerastiumsemidecandrum。Lepigonumrubrum。Silenemaritima。Lychnisalpinaonthemountain-fieldsroundReikjavik。
Empetreae。Empetrumnigrum。
Geraniaceae。GeraniumsylvaticuminpitsnearThingvalla。
Troseaceae。Parnassiapalustris。
OEnothereae。EpilobiumlatifoliumincleftsofthemountainatthefootofHecla。EpilobiumalpinuminReikervalley,westofHavenfiord。
Rosaceae。Rubusarcticus。Potentillaanserina。PotentillagronlandicaonrocksnearKallmanstungaandKollismola。
Alchemillamontana。Sanguisorbaofficinalis。Geumrivale。DryasoctopelanearHavenfiord。
Papilionaceae。Trifoliumrepens。
Footnotes:
{1}InthisGutenbergeTextonlyMadamePfeiffer'sworkappears——
DP。
{2}MadamePfeiffer'sfirstjourneywastotheHolyLandin1842;
andonherreturnfromIcelandshestartedin1846ona"JourneyroundtheWorld,"fromwhichshereturnedintheendof1848。Thisadventurousladyisnow1853travellingamongtheislandsoftheEasternArchipelago——ED。
{3}Aflorinisworthabout2s。1d。;sixtykreutzersgotoaflorin。
{4}AtKuttenbergthefirstsilvergroschenswerecoined,intheyear1300。Thesilverminesarenowexhausted,thoughothermines,ofcopper,zinc,&c。arewroughtintheneighbourhood。Thepopulationisonlyhalfofwhatitoncewas——ED。
{5}TheexpressionofMadamePfeiffer'saboutFrederick"payinghisscoretotheAustrians,"issomewhatvague。Thefactsarethese。
In1757FredericktheGreatofPrussiainvadedBohemia,andlaidsiegetoPrague。BeforethiscityanAustrianarmylay,whowereattackedwithgreatimpetuositybyFrederick,andcompletelydefeated。Butthetownwasdefendedwithgreatvalour;andduringthetimethusgainedtheAustriangeneralDaunraisedfreshtroops,withwhichhetookthefieldatCollin。HerehewasattackedbyFrederick,whowasrouted,andallhisbaggageandcannoncaptured。
Thislosswas"payinghisscore;"andthedefeatwassocomplete,thatthegreatmonarchsatdownbythesideofafountain,andtracingfiguresinthesand,waslostforalongtimeinmeditationonthemeanstobeadoptedtoretrievehisfortune——ED。
{6}Imentionthislittleincidenttowarnthetravelleragainstpartingwithhiseffects。
{7}Thetrueversionofthisaffairisasfollows。JohnofNepomukwasapriestservingundertheArchbishopofPrague。Theking,Wenceslaus,wasahasty,crueltyrant,whowasdetestedbyallhissubjects,andhatedbytherestofGermany。Twopriestswereguiltyofsomecrime,andoneofthecourtchamberlains,actingunderroyalorders,causedtheprieststobeputtodeath。Thearchbishop,indignantatthis,placedthechamberlainunderaninterdict。Thissorousedthekingthatheattemptedtoseizethearchbishop,whotookrefugeinflight。JohnofNepomuk,however,andanotherpriest,wereseizedandputtothetorturetoconfesswhatwerethedesignsofthearchbishop。Thekingseemstohavesuspectedthatthequeenwasinsomewayconnectedwiththelineofconductpursuedbythearchbishop。JohnofNepomuk,however,refused,eventhoughtheKingwithhisownhandburnedhimwithatorch。Irritatedbyhisobstinatesilence,thekingcausedthepoormonktobecastoverthebridgeintotheMoldau。Thismonkwasafterwardscanonised,andmadethepatronsaintofbridges——ED。
{8}AlbertvonWallensteinorWaldstein,thefamousDukeofFriedland,iscelebratedasoneoftheablestcommandersoftheimperialforcesduringtheprotractedreligiouscontestknowninGermanhistoryasthe"ThirtyYears'War。"DuringitsearlierperiodWallensteingreatlydistinguishedhimself,andwascreatedbytheEmperorFerdinandDukeofFriedlandandgeneralissimooftheimperialforces。InthecourseofafewmonthsWallensteinraisedanarmyoffortythousandmenintheEmperor'sservice。ThestrictestdisciplinewaspreservedWITHINhiscamp,buthistroopssupportedthemselvesbyasystemofrapineandplunderunprecedentedeveninthosedaysofmilitarylicense。Meritwasrewardedwithprincelymunificence,andthehighestofficeswerewithinthereachofeverycommonsoldierwhodistinguishedhimself;——trivialbreachesofdisciplinewerepunishedwithdeath。ThedarkandambitiousspiritofWallensteinwouldnotallowhimtorestsatisfiedwiththerewardsanddignitiesheapeduponhimbyhisimperialmaster。Hetemporisedandenteredintonegotiationswiththeenemy;andduringaninterviewwithaSwedishgeneralArnheim,isevensaidtohaveproposedanallianceto"hunttheEmperortothedevil。"ItissupposedthatheaspiredtothesovereigntyofBohemia。Ferdinandwasinformedoftheambitiousdesignsofhisgeneral,andatlengthdeterminedthatWallensteinshoulddie。Hedespatchedoneofhisgenerals,Gallas,tothecommander-in-chief,withamandatedeprivinghimofhisdignityofgeneralissimo,andnominatingGallasashissuccessor。Surprisedbeforehisplanswereripe,anddesertedbymanyonwhosesupporthehadrelied,WallensteinretiredhastilyuponEgra。Duringabanquetinthecastle,threeofhisgeneralswhoremainedfaithfultotheirleaderweremurderedinthedeadofnight。Rousedbythenoise,Wallensteinleaptfromhisbed,andencounteredthreesoldierswhohadbeenhiredtodespatchhim。
Speechlesswithastonishmentandindignation,hestretchedforthhisarms,andreceivinginhisbreastthestrokeofahalbert,felldeadwithoutagroan,inthefifty-firstyearofhisage。
Thefollowinganecdote,curiouslyillustrativeofthestateofaffairsinWallenstein'scamp,isrelatedbySchillerinhisHistoryoftheThirtyYears'War,aworkcontainingafullaccountofthelifeandactionsofthisextraordinaryman。"TheextortionsofWallenstein'ssoldiersfromthepeasantshadatoneperiodreachedsuchapitch,thatseverepenaltiesweredenouncedagainstallmarauders;andeverysoldierwhoshouldbeconvictedoftheftwasthreatenedwithahalter。Shortlyafterwards,itchancedthatWallensteinhimselfmetasoldierstrayinginthefield,whomhecausedtobeseized,ashavingviolatedthelaw,andcondemnedtothegallowswithoutatrial,byhisusualwordofdoom:"Lettherascalbehung!"Thesoldierprotested,andprovedhisinnocence。
"Thenletthemhangtheinnocent,"criedtheinhumanWallenstein;
"andtheguiltywilltremblethemore。"Thepreparationsforcarryingthissentenceintoeffecthadalreadycommenced,whenthesoldier,whosawhimselflostwithoutremedy,formedthedesperateresolutionthathewouldnotdieunrevenged。Rushingfuriouslyuponhisleader,hewasseizedanddisarmedbythebystandersbeforehecouldcarryhisintentionintoeffect。"Nowlethimgo,"saidWallenstein;"itwillexciteterrorenough。""——ED。
{9}PoniatowskiwasthecommanderofthePolishlegioninthearmiesofNapoleon,bywhomhewashighlyrespected。AtthebattleofLeipzig,foughtinOctober1813,PoniatowskiandMarshalMacDonaldwereappointedtocommandtherearofNapoleon'sarmy,which,aftertwodayshardfighting,wascompelledtoretreatbeforetheAllies。Thesegeneralsdefendedtheretreatofthearmysogallantly,thatalltheFrenchtroops,exceptthoseundertheirimmediatecommand,hadevacuatedthetown。Therear-guardwaspreparingtofollow,whentheonlybridgeovertheElsterthatremainedopentothemwasdestroyed,throughsomemistake。ThiseffectuallybarredtheescapeoftherearofNapoleon'sarmy。A
few,amongwhomwasMarshalMacDonald,succeededinswimmingacross;
butPoniatowski,aftermakingabraveresistance,andrefusingtosurrender,wasdrownedinmakingthesameattempt——ED。
{10}Leipzighaslongbeenfamousasthechiefbook-martofGermany。AtthegreatEastermeetings,publishersfromallthedifferentstatesassembleatthe"BuchhandlerBorse,"andalargeamountofbusinessisdone。ThefairsofLeipzighavedonemuchtowardsestablishingthepositionofthiscityasoneofthefirsttradingtownsinGermany。Theytakeplacethreetimesannually:atNew-year,atEaster,andatMichaelmas;buttheEasterfairisbyfarthemostimportant。Thesecommercialmeetingslastaboutthreeweeks,andduringthistimethetownpresentsamostanimatedappearance,asthestreetsarethrongedwiththecostumesofalmosteverynation,thesmartdressoftheTyrolesecontrastinggailywiththesombregarbofthePolishJews。Theamountofbusinesstransactedatthesefairsisveryconsiderable;onseveraloccasions,abovetwentythousanddealershaveassembled。Thetradeisprincipallyinwoollencloths;butlighterwares,andevenornamentsofeverydescription,aresoldtoalargeextent。Themannerinwhicheveryavailableplaceistakenadvantageofisverycurious:archways,cellars,passages,andcourtyardsarealikefilledwithmerchandise,andthestreetsareattimessocrowdedastobealmostimpassable。Whenthethreeweekshavepassed,thewoodenboothswhichhavebeenerectedinthemarket-placeandtheprincipalstreetsaretakendown,thebuyersandsellersvanishtogether,andthevisitorwouldscarcelyrecogniseinthequietstreetsaroundhimthebustlingbusycityofafewdaysago——ED。
{11}Thefirebrokeouton4thMay1842,andragedwiththeutmostfuryforthreedays。Wholestreetsweredestroyed,andatleast2000housesburnedtotheground。Nearlyhalfamillionofmoneywasraisedinforeigncountriestoassistinrebuildingthecity,ofwhichaboutatenthwascontributedbyBritain。Suchawfulfires,fearfulthoughtheyareatthetime,seemabsolutelynecessarytogreattowns,astheycauseneedfulimprovementstobemade,whichtheindolenceorselfishnessoftheinhabitantswouldotherwiseprevent。Thereisnotagreatcitythathasnotatonetimeoranothersufferedseverelyfromfire,andhasrisenoutoftheruinsgreaterthanbefore——ED。
{12}TherearenodocksatHamburgh,consequentlyallthevesselslieintheriverElbe,andbothreceiveanddischargetheircargoesthere。MadamePfeiffer,however,ismistakeninsupposingthatonlyLondoncouldshowapictureofsomanyshipsandsomuchcommercialactivitysurpassingthatofHamburgh。Suchapicture,moreimpressiveeventhanthatseenintheElbe,isexhibitedeverydayintheMerseyortheHudson——ED。
{13}Kiel,however,isaplaceofconsiderabletrade;anddoubtlessthereasonwhyMadamePfeiffersawsofewvesselsatitwaspreciselythesamereasonwhyshesawsomanyatHamburgh。Kielcontainsanexcellentuniversity——ED。
{14}AtseaIcalculatebysea-miles,ofwhichsixtygotoadegree。
{15}ThisgreatDanishsculptorwasbornofpoorparentsatCopenhagen,onthe19thNovember,1770;hisfatherwasanIcelander,andearnedhislivingbycarvingfigure-headsforships。Albert,or"Bertel,"asheismoregenerallycalled,wasaccustomedduringhisyouthtoassisthisfatherinhislaboursonthewharf。AtanearlyagehevisitedtheAcademyatCopenhagen,wherehisgeniussoonbegantomakeitselfconspicuous。Attheageofsixteenhehadwonasilver,andattwentyagoldmedal。Twoyearslaterhecarriedoffthe"great"goldmedal,andwassenttostudyabroadattheexpenseoftheAcademy。In1797wefindhimpractisinghisartatRomeundertheeyeofZoegatheDane,whodoesnot,however,seemtohavediscoveredindicationsofextraordinarygeniusinthelaboursofhisyoungcountryman。ButaworkwassoontoappearwhichshouldsetallquestionsastoThorwaldsen'stalentforeveratrest。In1801heproducedhiscelebratedstatueof"Jason,"whichwasatoncepronouncedbythegreatCanovatobe"aworkinanewandagrandstyle。"Afterthisperiodthepathoffamelayopenbeforetheyoungsculptor;hisbas-reliefsof"Summer"and"Autumn,"the"DanceoftheMuses,""CupidandPsyche,"andnumerousotherworks,followedeachotherinrapidsuccession;andatlength,in1812,Thorwaldsenproducedhisextraordinarywork,"TheTriumphofAlexander。"In1819Thorwaldsenreturnedrichandfamoustothecityhehadquittedasayouthtwenty-threeyearsbefore;hewasreceivedwithgreathonour,andmanyfeastsandrejoicingswereheldtocelebratehisarrival。AfterasojournofayearThorwaldsenagainvisitedRome,wherehecontinuedhislaboursuntil1838,when,wealthyandindependent,heresolvedtorestinhisnativecountry。
ThistimehiswelcometoCopenhagenwasevenmoreenthusiasticthanin1819。Thewholeshorewaslinedwithspectators,andamidthunderingacclamationsthehorseswereunharnessedfromhiscarriage,andthesculptorwasdrawnintriumphbythepeopletohisatelier。DuringtheremainderofhislifeThorwaldsenpassedmuchofhistimeontheislandofNyso,wheremostofhislatestworkswereexecuted。OnSunday,March9th,1842,hehadbeenconversingwithacircleoffriendsinperfecthealth。Halm'stragedyofGriseldawasannouncedfortheevening,andThorwaldsenproceededtothetheatretowitnesstheperformance。Duringtheovertureherosetoallowastrangertopass,thenresumedhisseat,andamomentafterwardshisheadsunkonhisbreast——hewasdead!
Hisfuneralwasmostsumptuous。Richandpoorunitedtodohonourtothememoryofthegreatman,whohadendearedhimselftothembyhisvirtuesasbyhisgenius。Thecrown-princefollowedthecoffin,andthepeopleofCopenhagenstoodintwolongrows,anduncoveredtheirheadsasthecoffinofthesculptorwascarriedpast。Thekinghimselftookpartinthesolemnity。AtthetimeofhisdeceaseThorwaldsenhadcompletedhisseventy-secondyear——ED。
{16}TychodeBrahewasadistinguishedastronomer,wholivedbetween1546and1601。HewasanativeofDenmark。Hiswholelifemaybesaidtohavebeendevotedtoastronomy。AsmallworkthathepublishedwhenayoungmanbroughthimunderthenoticeoftheKingofDenmark,withwhoseassistanceheconstructed,onthesmallislandofHulln,afewmilesnorthofCopenhagen,thecelebratedObservatoryofUranienburg。Here,seatedin"theancientchair"
referredtointhetext,andsurroundedbynumerousassistants,hedirectedforseventeenyearsaseriesofobservations,thathavebeenfoundextremelyaccurateanduseful。OnthedeathofhispatronheretiredtoPragueinBohemia,wherehewasemployedbyRodolphII。thenEmperorofGermany。HerehewasassistedbythegreatKepler,who,onTycho'sdeathin1601,succeededhim——ED。
{17}ThefisheriesofIcelandhavebeenveryvaluable,andindeedthechiefsourceofthecommerceofthecountryeversinceitwasdiscovered。Thefishchieflycaughtarecodandthetuskorcat-
fish。Theyareexportedinlargequantities,curedinvariousways。
SincethediscoveryofNewfoundland,however,thefisheriesofIcelandhavelostmuchoftheirimportance。Soearlyas1415,theEnglishsentfishingvesselstotheIcelandiccoast,andthesailorswhowereonboard,itwouldappear,behavedsobadlytothenativesthatHenryV。hadtomakesomecompensationtotheKingofDenmarkfortheirconduct。ThegreatestnumberoffishingvesselsfromEnglandthatevervisitedIcelandwasduringthereignofJamesI。,whosemarriagewiththesisteroftheDanishkingmightprobablymakeEnglandatthetimethemostfavourednation。ItwasinhistimethatanEnglishpirate,"GentlemanJohn,"ashewascalled,committedgreatravagesinIceland,forwhichJameshadafterwardstomakecompensation。ThechiefmarketsforthefishareintheCatholiccountriesofEurope。Intheseventeenthcentury,agreattrafficinfishwascarriedonbetweenIcelandandSpain——ED。
{18}ThedueschargedbytheDanishGovernmentonallvesselspassingthroughtheSoundhavebeenleviedsince1348,andthereforeenjoyaprescriptiverightofmorethanfivehundredyears。TheybringtotheDanishGovernmentayearlyrevenueofaboutaquarterofamillion;and,inconsiderationofthedues,theGovernmenthastosupportcertainlighthouses,andotherwisetorendersafeandeasythenavigationofthisgreatentrancetotheBaltic。Sound-
dueswerefirstpaidinthepalmycommercialdaysoftheHanseaticLeague。ThatpowerfulcombinationofmerchantshadsufferedseverelyfromtheravagesofDanishpirates,royalandotherwise;
butultimatelytheybecamesopowerfulthattherichmerchantcouldbeattheroyalbuccaneer,andtamehisferocitysoeffectuallyastoinducehimtobuildandmaintainthosebeacon-lightsontheshoresoftheSound,forwhoseusetheyandallnationsandmerchantsafterthemhaveagreedtopaycertainduties——ED。
{19}TheFeroeIslandsconsistofagreatmanyislets,someofthemmererocks,lyingabouthalfwaybetweenthenorthcoastofScotlandandIceland。AtonetimetheybelongedtoNorway,butcameintothepossessionofDenmarkatthesametimeasIceland。Theyareexceedinglymountainous,someofthemountainsattaininganelevationofabout2800feet。Thelargesttownorvillagedoesnotcontainmorethan1500or1600inhabitants。Thepopulationlivechieflyontheproduceoftheirlargeflocksofsheep,andonthedownprocured,oftenatgreatrisktohumanlife,fromtheeider-
duckandotherbirdsbywhichtheislandisfrequented——ED。
{20}Ishouldbetrulysorryif,inthisdescriptionofour"lifeaboardship,"IhadsaidanythingwhichcouldgiveoffencetomykindfriendHerrKnudson。Ihave,however,presumedthateveryoneisawarethatthemodeoflifeatseaisdifferenttolifeinfamilies。Ihaveonlytoadd,thatHerrKnudsonlivedmostagreeablynotonlyinCopenhagen,butwhatisfarmoreremarkable,inIcelandalso,andwasprovidedwitheverycomfortprocurableinthelargestEuropeantowns。
{21}Itisnotonlyatseathatingeniousexcusesfordrinkingareinvented。Theloversofgoodorbadliquoronlandfindthesereasonsas"plentyasblackberries,"andapplythemwithamarvellouswantofstintorscruple。Inwarmclimatestheliquorisdranktokeepthedrinkercool,incoldtokeephimwarm;inhealthtopreventhimfrombeingsick,insicknesstobringhimbacktohealth。Veryseldomistherealreason,"becauseIlikeit,"given;
andalltheseexcusesandreasonsmustberegardedasimplyingsomelingeringsenseofshameattheact,andasformingpartof"thehomagethatvicealwayspaystovirtue。"——ED。
{22}Thesailorscallthosewaves"Spanish"which,comingfromthewest,distinguishthemselvesbytheirsize。
{23}Theseislandsformarockygroup,onlyoneofwhichisinhabited,lyingaboutfifteenmilesfromthecoast。TheyaresaidtoderivetheirnamefromsomenativesofIreland,calledWest-men,whovisitedIcelandshortlyafteritsdiscoverybytheNorwegians。
Inthisthereisnothingimprobable,forweknowthatduringtheninthandtenthcenturiestheDanesandNormans,calledEasterlings,mademanydescentsontheIrishcoast;andoneNorwegianchiefisreportedtohaveassumedsovereignpowerinIrelandabouttheyear866,thoughhewasafterwardsdeposed,andflungintoalough,wherehewasdrowned:ratheranignominiousdeathfora"sea-king。"——ED。
{24}Thiswork,whichMadamePfeifferdoesnotpraisetoohighly,wasfirstpublishedin1810。Afterpassingthroughtwoeditions,itwasreprintedin1841,atacheapprice,inthevaluablepeople'seditionsofstandardworks,publishedbyMessrs。ChambersofEdinburgh——ED。
{25}ItisrelatedofIngoldthathecarriedwithhimonhisvoyagethedoorofhisformerhouseinIreland,andthatwhenheapproachedthecoasthecastitintothesea,watchingthepointoflandwhichittouched;andonthatlandhefixedhisfuturehome。ThislandisthesameonwhichthetownofReikjaviknowstands。Theseoldsea-
kings,likethemenofAthens,were"inallthingstoosuperstitious。"——ED。
{26}Thesesea-rovers,thatweretothenationsofEuropeduringthemiddleageswhattheDanes,Norwegians,andothernorthmenwereatanearlierperiod,enjoyedatthistimethefullflowoftheirlawlessprosperity。Theirinsolenceandpowerweresogreatthatmanynations,ourownincluded,weregladtopurchase,byayearlypayment,exemptionfromtheattacksofthesesea-rovers。TheAmericanspaidthistributesolateas1815。TheunfortunateIcelanderswhowerecarriedoffintheseventeenthcenturynearlyalldiedascaptivesinAlgiers。Attheendoftenyearstheywereliberated;butofthefourhundredonlythirty-sevenwerealivewhenthejoyfulintelligencereachedtheplaceoftheircaptivity;andofthesetwenty-fourdiedbeforerejoiningtheirnativeland——ED。
{27}Thistown,thecapitalofIceland,andtheseatofgovernment,isbuiltonanarmoftheseacalledtheFaxefiord,inthesouth-
westpartoftheisland。Theresidentpopulationdoesnotexceed500,butthisisgreatlyincreasedduringtheannualfairs。Itconsistsmainlyoftwostreetsatrightanglestoeachother。Itcontainsalargechurchbuiltofstone,roofedwithtiles;anobservatory;theresidencesofthegovernorandthebishop,andtheprison,whichisperhapsthemostconspicuousbuildinginthetown——
ED。
{28}AsMadamePfeifferhadthusnoopportunityofattendingaballinIceland,thefollowingdescriptionofonegivenbySirGeorgeMackenziemaybeinterestingtothereader。
"WegaveaballtotheladiesofReikjavikandtheneighbourhood。
Thecompanybegantoassembleaboutnineo'clock。Wewereshewnintoasmalllow-roofedroom,inwhichwereanumberofmen,buttomysurpriseIsawnofemales。Wesoonfoundthem,however,inoneadjoining,whereitisthecustomforthemtowaittilltheirpartnersgotohandthemout。Onenteringthisapartment,IfeltconsiderabledisappointmentatnotobservingasinglewomandressedintheIcelandiccostume。ThedresseshadsomeresemblancetothoseofEnglishchambermaids,butwerenotsosmart。Anoldlady,thewifeofthemanwhokeptthetavern,washabitedlikethepicturesofourgreat-grandmothers。Sometimeafterthedancingcommenced,thebishop'slady,andtwoothers,appearedintheproperdressofthecountry。