Thepalaceisbuiltinasplendidstyle,butisunfortunatelyquiteuseless,asthecourthasbeautifulsummer-palacesintheneighbourhoodofPotsdam,andspendsthewinterinBerlin。
  Thecastlesquareisnotverygood;itisneitherlargenorregular,andnotevenlevel。Onitstandsthelargechurch,whichisnotyetcompleted,butpromisestobeafinestructure。Thetownistolerablylarge,andhasmanyfinehouses。Thestreets,especiallytheNaunerStreet,arewideandlong,butbadlypaved;thestonesarelaidwiththepointedsideupwards,andforfoot-passengersthereisastonepavementtwofeetbroadononesideofthestreetonly。ThepromenadeofthetownspeopleiscalledAmKanalbesidethecanal,andisafinesquare,throughwhichthecanalflows,andisornamentedwithtrees。
  Oftheroyalpleasure-palacesIvisitedthatofSansSoucifirst。
  Itissurroundedbyaprettypark,andliesonahill,whichisdividedintosixterraces。Largeconservatoriesstandoneachsideofthese;andinfrontofthemarelongalleysoforangeandlemon-
  trees。
  Thepalacehasonlyagroundfloor,andissurroundedbyarbours,trees,andvines,sothatitisalmostconcealedfromview。Icouldnotinspecttheinterior,astheroyalfamilywaslivingthere。
  Aside-pathleadsfromheretotheRuinenberg,onwhichtheruinsofalargerandasmallertemple,raisedbythehandofart,aretastefullydisposed。Thetopofthehillistakenupbyareservoirofwater。FromthispointonecanseethebackofthepalaceofSansSouci,andtheso-callednewpalace,separatedfromtheformerbyasmallpark,anddistantonlyaboutaquarterofanhour。
  Thenewpalace,builtbyFredericktheGreat,isassplendidasonecanimagine。Itformsalengthenedsquare,witharabesquesandflatcolumns,andhasaflatroof,whichissurroundedbyastonebalustrade,andornamentedbystatues。
  Theapartmentsarehighandlarge,andsplendidlypainted,tapestried,andfurnished。Oil-paintings,manyofthemverygood,coverthewalls。Onemightfillavolumewiththedescriptionofallthewondersofthisplace,whichis,however,notinhabited。
  Behindthepalace,andseparatedfromitbyalargecourt,aretwobeautifullittlepalaces,connectedbyacrescent-shapedhallofpillars;broadstonestepsleadtothebalconiessurroundingthefirststoryoftheedifices。Theyareusedasbarracks,andare,assuch,themostbeautifulIhaveeverseen。
  FromhereapleasantwalkleadstothelovelypalaceofCharlottenburg。Comingfromthelargenewpalaceitseemedtoosmallforthedwellingevenofthecrown-prince。Ishouldhavetakenitforasplendidpavilionattachedtothenewpalace,towhichtheroyalfamilysometimeswalked,andperhapsremainedtheretotakerefreshment。ButwhenIhadinspecteditmoreclosely,andseenallthecomfortablelittlerooms,furnishedwithsuchtastefulluxury,Ifeltthatthecrown-princecouldnothavemadeabetterchoice。
  Beautifulfountainsplayontheterraces;thewallsofthecorridorsandanteroomsarecoveredwithsplendidfrescoes,inimitationofthosefoundinPompeii。Theroomsaboundinexcellentengravings,paintings,andotherworksofart;andthegreatesttasteandsplendourisdisplayedevenintheminorarrangements。
  AprettyChinesechiosque,filledwithgoodstatues,whichhavebeenunfortunatelymuchdamagedandbroken,standsnearthepalace。
  Thesethreebeautifulroyalresidencesaresituatedinparks,whicharesounitedthattheyseemonlyasone。Theparksarefilledwithfinetrees,andverdantfieldscrossedbywell-keptpathsanddrives;butIsawveryfewflower-bedsinthem。
  WhenIhadcontemplatedeverythingatleisure,IreturnedtothepalaceofSansSouci,toseethebeautifulfountains,whichplaytwiceaweek,onTuesdayandFriday,fromnoontillevening。Thecolumnsprojectedfromthebasininfrontofthecastlearesovoluminous,andrisewithsuchforce,thatIgazedinamazementattheartifice。Itisrealpleasuretobenearthebasinwhenthesunshinesinitsfullsplendour,formingthemostbeautifulrainbowsinthefallingshowerofdrops。Equallybeautifulisafountainrisingfromahighvase,enwreathedbylivingflowers,andfallingoverit,sothatitformsaquick,briskfountain,transparent,andpureasthefinestcrystal。Thelidofthevase,alsoenwreathedwithgrowingflowers,risesabovethefountain。TheNeptune'sgrottoisofnogreatbeauty;thewaterfallsfromanurnplacedoverit,andformslittlewaterfallsasitflowsovernautilus-shells。
  ThemarblepalaceliesontheothersideofPotsdam,andishalfanhour'sdistancefromthesepalaces;butIhadtimeenoughtovisitit。
  Enteringtheparkbelongingtothispalace,arowofneatpeasants'
  cottagesisseenontheleft;theyareallalike,butseparatedbyfruit,flower,orkitchen-gardens。Thepalaceliesattheextremeendofthepark,onaprettylakeformedbytheriverHavel。Itcertainlyhassomerighttothenameofmarblepalace;butitseemspresumptiontocallitsowhencomparedtothemarblepalacesofVenice,orthemarblemosquesofConstantinople。
  Thewallsofthebuildingareofbrickleftinitsnaturalcolour。
  Thelowerandupperframe-work,thewindow-sashes,andtheportals,areallofmarble。Thepalaceispartlysurroundedbyagallerysupportedonmarblecolumns。Thestairsareoffinewhitemarble,andmanyoftheapartmentsarelaidwiththismineral。Theinteriorisnotnearlysoluxuriousastheotherpalaces。
  ThiswasthelastofthesightsIsawinPotsdamortheenvironsofBerlin;forIcontinuedmyjourneytoViennaonthefollowingday。
  BeforequittingBerlin,Imustmentionanarrangementwhichisparticularlyconvenientforstrangers——namely,thefaresforhackney-carriages。Oneneedasknoquestions,butmerelyenterthecarriage,tellthecoachmanwheretodrive,andpayhimsix-pence。
  Thismoderatefareisforthewholetown,whichissomewhatextensive。Atalltherailwaystationstherearenumbersofthesevehicles,whichwilldrivetoanyhotel,howeverfaritmaybefromthestation,forthesamemoderatefare。Ifonlyallcab-driversweresoaccommodating!
  October1st。
  TherailwaygoesthroughLeipzictoDresden,whereItookthemail-
  coachforPragueateighto'clockthesameevening,andarrivedthereineighteenhours。
  Asitwasnightwhenwepassed,wedidnotenjoythebeautifulviewsoftheNollendorfmountain。Inthemorningwepassedtwohandsomemonuments,oneofthem,apyramidfifty-fourfeethigh,tothememoryofCountColloredo,theothertothememoryoftheRussiantroopswhohadfallenhere;bothhavebeenerectedsincethewarsofNapoleon。
  Onwewentthroughcharmingdistrictstothefamedbathing-placeTeplitz,whichissurroundedbythemostbeautifulscenery;andcanbearcomparisonwiththefinestbathing-placesoftheworld。
  Furtheronwepassedasolitarybasalticrock,Boren,whichdeservesattentionforitsbeautyandasanaturalcuriosity。Weunfortunatelyhurriedpastit,aswewishedtoreachPraguebeforesixo'clock,sothatwemightnotmissthetraintoVienna。
  MyreadersmayimagineourdisappointmentonarrivingatthegatesofPrague,whenourpassportsweretakenfromusandnotreturned。
  Invainwereferredtotheviseoftheboundary-townPeterswalde;invainwespokeofourhaste。Theansweralwayswas,"Thatisnothingtous;youcanhaveyourpapersbackto-morrowatthepolice-
  office。"Thuswewereputoff,andlosttwenty-fourhours。
  ImustmentionalittlejokeIhadontheridefromDresdentoPrague。Twogentlemenandaladybesidemyselfoccupiedthemail-
  coach;theladyhappenedtohavereadmydiaryofPalestine,andaskedme,whensheheardmyname,ifIwerethattraveller。WhenI
  hadacknowledgedIwasthatsameperson,ourconversationturnedonthatandonmypresentjourney。Oneofthegentlemen,HerrKatze,wasveryintelligent,andconversedinamostinterestingmanneroncountries,nationalities,andscientificsubjects。Theothergentlemanwasprobablyequallywellinformed,buthemadelessuseofhisacquirements。HerrKatzeremainedinTeplitz,andtheothergentlemanproceededwithustoVienna。Beforearrivingatourdestination,heaskedmeifHerrKatzehadnotrequestedmetomentionhisnameinmynextbook,andadded,thatifIwouldpromisetodothesame,hewouldtellmehisname。Icouldnotrefrainfromsmiling,butassuredhimthatHerrKatzehadnotthoughtofsuchathing,andbeggedhimnottocommunicatehisnametome,sothathemightseethatwefemaleswerenotsocuriousaswearesaidtobe。
  Butthepoormancouldnotrefrainfromgivingmehisname——NicholasB——beforeweparted。Idonotinsertitfortworeasons:first,becauseIdidnotpromisetonamehim;andsecondly,becauseIdonotthinkitwoulddohimanyservice。
  TherailwayfromPraguetoViennagoesoverOlmutz,andmakessuchaconsiderableround,thatthedistanceisnownearly320miles,andthearrangementsontherailwayareveryimperfect。
  Therewerenohotelserectedontheroad,andwehadtobecontentwithfruit,beer,bread,andbutter,&c。thewholetime。Andtheseprovisionswerenoteasilyobtained,aswecouldnotventuretoleavethecarriages。Theconductorcalledoutateverystationthatweshouldgoondirectly,althoughthetrainfrequentlystoodupwardsofhalfanhour;butaswedidnotknowthatbefore,wewereobligedtoremainonourseats。Theconductorswerenotofthemostamiablecharacter,whichmayperhapsbeascribedtotheclimate;forwhenweapproachedtheboundaryoftheAustrianstatesatPeterswalde,theinspectorreceivedusverygruffly。Wewishedhimgoodeveningtwice,buthetooknonoticeofit,anddemandedourpapersinaloudandperemptorytone;heprobablythoughtusasdeafaswethoughthim。AtGanserndorf,twenty-fivemilesfromVienna,theytookourpapersfromusinaveryuncivil,uncourteousmanner。
  Onthe4thofOctober,1845,afteranabsenceofsixmonths,I
  arrivedagaininsightofthedearStephen'ssteeple,asmostofmycountrywomenwouldsay。
  Ihadsufferedmanyhardships;butmyloveoftravellingwouldnothavebeenabated,norwouldmycouragehavefailedme,hadtheybeententimesgreater。Ihadbeenamplycompensatedforall。Ihadseenthingswhichneveroccurinourcommonlife,andhadmetwithpeopleastheyarerarelymetwith——intheirnaturalstate。AndI
  broughtbackwithmetherecollectionsofmytravels,whichwillalwaysremain,andwhichwillaffordmerenewedpleasureforyears。
  AndnowItakeleaveofmydearreaders,requestingthemtoacceptwithindulgencemydescriptions,whicharealwaystrue,thoughtheymaynotbeamusing。IfIhave,asIcanscarcelyhope,affordedthemsomeamusement,Itrusttheywillinreturngrantmeasmallcornerintheirmemories。
  Inconclusion,IbegtoaddanAppendix,whichmaynotbeuninterestingtomanyofmyreaders,namely:
  1。AdocumentwhichIprocuredinReikjavik,givingthesalariesoftheroyalDanishofficials,andthesourcesfromwhencetheyarepaid。
  2。AlistofIcelandicinsects,butterflies,flowers,andplants,whichIcollectedandbroughthomewithme。
  APPENDIXA
  SalariesoftheRoyalDanishOfficialsinIceland,whichtheyreceivefromtheIcelandicland-revenues。
  Florins{58}
  TheGovernorofIceland2000
  Officeexpenses600
  Thedeputyforthewesterndistrict1586
  Officeexpenses400
  Rent200
  Thedeputyforthenorthernandeasterndistricts1286
  Officeexpenses400
  ThebishopofIceland,whodrawshissalaryfromtheschool-revenues,haspaidhimfromthistreasury800
  ThemembersoftheSupremeCourt:
  Onejudge1184
  Firstassessor890
  Secondassessor740
  Theland-bailiffofIceland600
  Officeexpenses200
  Rent150
  Thetown-bailiffofReikjavik300
  Thefirstpolice-officerofReikjavik,whoisatthesametimegaoler,andthereforehas50fl。morethanthesecondofficer200
  Thesecondpolice-officer150
  ThemayorofReikjavikonlydrawsfromthistreasuryhishouse-rent,whichis15O
  ThesysselmanoftheWestmannsIslands296
  Theothersysselmen,each230
  Medicaldepartmentandmidwifery:
  Thephysician900
  House-rent150
  ApothecaryofReikjavik185
  House-rent150
  ThesecondapothecaryatSikkisholm90
  Sixsurgeonsinthecountry,each300
  House-rentforsome30
  Forothers25
  AmedicalpractitionerontheNorthland110
  Reikjavikhastwomidwives,eachreceives50
  TheothermidwivesinIceland,amountingtothirty,eachreceives100
  Thesemidwivesareinstructedandexaminedbythelandphysician,whohasthechargeofpayingthemannually。
  OrganistofReikjavik100
  Fromtheschool-revenuesThebishopreceives1200
  Theteachersatthehighschool:
  Theteacheroftheology800
  Theheadassistant,besidesfreelodging500
  Thesecondassistant500
  House-rent50
  Thethirdassistant500
  House-rent50
  Theresidentattheschool170
  LISTOFINVERTEBRATEDANIMALScollectedinIceland1。CRUSTACEA。
  PagarusBernhardus,Linnaeus。
  2。INSECTA。
  a。Coleoptera。Nebriarubripes,Dejean。Patrobushyperboreus。
  Calathusmelanocephalus,Fabr。Notiophilusaquaticus。Amaravulgaris,Duftsihm。Ptinusfur,Linn。AphodiusLapponum,Schh。
  Otiorhynchuslaevigatus,Dhl。OtiorhynchusPinastri,Fabr。
  Otiorhynchusovatus。Staphylinusmaxillosus。Byrrhuspillula。
  b。Neuroptera。Limnophiluslineola,Schrank。
  c。Hymenoptera。Pimplainstigator,Gravh。Bombussubterraneus,Linn。
  d。Lepidoptera。Geometrarussata,Hub。Geom。alchemillata。
  Geom。spec。nov。
  e。Diptera。Tipulalunata,Meig。Scatophagastercoraria。Muscavomitaria。Muscamortuorum。Helomyzaserrata。Lecogasterislandicus,Scheff。{59}Anthomyiadecolor,Fallin。
  LISTOFICELANDICPLANTScollectedbyIdaPfeifferintheSummeroftheyear1845
  Felices。Cystopterisfragilis。
  Equisetaceae。EquisetumTeltamegra。
  Graminae。Festucauniglumis。
  Cyperaceae。Careafiliformis。Careacaespitosa。Eriophorumcaespitosum。
  Juncaceae。Luzulaspicata。Luzulacampestris。
  Salicineae。Salixpolaris。
  Polygoneae。Remuxarifolus。Oxyriareniformes。
  Plumbagineae。Armeriaalpinaintheinteriormountainousdistricts。
  Compositae。Chrysanthemummaritimumonthesea-shore,andonmarshyfields。Hieraciumalpinumongrassyplains。Taraxacumalpinum。ErigeronuniflorumwestofHavenfiord,onrockysoil。
  Rubiaceae。Galliumpusillum。Galliumverum。
  Labiatae。Thynusserpyllum。
  Asperifoliae。Myosotisalpestris。Myosotisscorpioicles。
  Scrophularineae。Bartsiaalpinaintheinteriornorth-westernvalleys。Rhinanthusalpestris。
  Utricularieae。Pinguiculaalpina。Pinguiculavulgaris。
  Umbelliferae。ArchangelicaofficinalisHavenfiord。
  Saxifrageae。SaxifragacaespitosatherealLinnaeanplant:onrocksroundHecla。
  Ranunculaceae。Ranunculusauricomus。Ranunculusnivalis。
  Thalictrumalpinumgrowingbetweenlava,nearReikjavik。Calthapalustris。
  Cruciferae。Drabaverna。Cardaminepratensis。
  Violariceae。Violahirta。
  Caryophylleae。Saginastricta。Cerastiumsemidecandrum。Lepigonumrubrum。Silenemaritima。Lychnisalpinaonthemountain-fieldsroundReikjavik。
  Empetreae。Empetrumnigrum。
  Geraniaceae。GeraniumsylvaticuminpitsnearThingvalla。
  Troseaceae。Parnassiapalustris。
  OEnothereae。EpilobiumlatifoliumincleftsofthemountainatthefootofHecla。EpilobiumalpinuminReikervalley,westofHavenfiord。
  Rosaceae。Rubusarcticus。Potentillaanserina。PotentillagronlandicaonrocksnearKallmanstungaandKollismola。
  Alchemillamontana。Sanguisorbaofficinalis。Geumrivale。DryasoctopelanearHavenfiord。
  Papilionaceae。Trifoliumrepens。
  Footnotes:
  {1}InthisGutenbergeTextonlyMadamePfeiffer'sworkappears——
  DP。
  {2}MadamePfeiffer'sfirstjourneywastotheHolyLandin1842;
  andonherreturnfromIcelandshestartedin1846ona"JourneyroundtheWorld,"fromwhichshereturnedintheendof1848。Thisadventurousladyisnow1853travellingamongtheislandsoftheEasternArchipelago——ED。
  {3}Aflorinisworthabout2s。1d。;sixtykreutzersgotoaflorin。
  {4}AtKuttenbergthefirstsilvergroschenswerecoined,intheyear1300。Thesilverminesarenowexhausted,thoughothermines,ofcopper,zinc,&c。arewroughtintheneighbourhood。Thepopulationisonlyhalfofwhatitoncewas——ED。
  {5}TheexpressionofMadamePfeiffer'saboutFrederick"payinghisscoretotheAustrians,"issomewhatvague。Thefactsarethese。
  In1757FredericktheGreatofPrussiainvadedBohemia,andlaidsiegetoPrague。BeforethiscityanAustrianarmylay,whowereattackedwithgreatimpetuositybyFrederick,andcompletelydefeated。Butthetownwasdefendedwithgreatvalour;andduringthetimethusgainedtheAustriangeneralDaunraisedfreshtroops,withwhichhetookthefieldatCollin。HerehewasattackedbyFrederick,whowasrouted,andallhisbaggageandcannoncaptured。
  Thislosswas"payinghisscore;"andthedefeatwassocomplete,thatthegreatmonarchsatdownbythesideofafountain,andtracingfiguresinthesand,waslostforalongtimeinmeditationonthemeanstobeadoptedtoretrievehisfortune——ED。
  {6}Imentionthislittleincidenttowarnthetravelleragainstpartingwithhiseffects。
  {7}Thetrueversionofthisaffairisasfollows。JohnofNepomukwasapriestservingundertheArchbishopofPrague。Theking,Wenceslaus,wasahasty,crueltyrant,whowasdetestedbyallhissubjects,andhatedbytherestofGermany。Twopriestswereguiltyofsomecrime,andoneofthecourtchamberlains,actingunderroyalorders,causedtheprieststobeputtodeath。Thearchbishop,indignantatthis,placedthechamberlainunderaninterdict。Thissorousedthekingthatheattemptedtoseizethearchbishop,whotookrefugeinflight。JohnofNepomuk,however,andanotherpriest,wereseizedandputtothetorturetoconfesswhatwerethedesignsofthearchbishop。Thekingseemstohavesuspectedthatthequeenwasinsomewayconnectedwiththelineofconductpursuedbythearchbishop。JohnofNepomuk,however,refused,eventhoughtheKingwithhisownhandburnedhimwithatorch。Irritatedbyhisobstinatesilence,thekingcausedthepoormonktobecastoverthebridgeintotheMoldau。Thismonkwasafterwardscanonised,andmadethepatronsaintofbridges——ED。
  {8}AlbertvonWallensteinorWaldstein,thefamousDukeofFriedland,iscelebratedasoneoftheablestcommandersoftheimperialforcesduringtheprotractedreligiouscontestknowninGermanhistoryasthe"ThirtyYears'War。"DuringitsearlierperiodWallensteingreatlydistinguishedhimself,andwascreatedbytheEmperorFerdinandDukeofFriedlandandgeneralissimooftheimperialforces。InthecourseofafewmonthsWallensteinraisedanarmyoffortythousandmenintheEmperor'sservice。ThestrictestdisciplinewaspreservedWITHINhiscamp,buthistroopssupportedthemselvesbyasystemofrapineandplunderunprecedentedeveninthosedaysofmilitarylicense。Meritwasrewardedwithprincelymunificence,andthehighestofficeswerewithinthereachofeverycommonsoldierwhodistinguishedhimself;——trivialbreachesofdisciplinewerepunishedwithdeath。ThedarkandambitiousspiritofWallensteinwouldnotallowhimtorestsatisfiedwiththerewardsanddignitiesheapeduponhimbyhisimperialmaster。Hetemporisedandenteredintonegotiationswiththeenemy;andduringaninterviewwithaSwedishgeneralArnheim,isevensaidtohaveproposedanallianceto"hunttheEmperortothedevil。"ItissupposedthatheaspiredtothesovereigntyofBohemia。Ferdinandwasinformedoftheambitiousdesignsofhisgeneral,andatlengthdeterminedthatWallensteinshoulddie。Hedespatchedoneofhisgenerals,Gallas,tothecommander-in-chief,withamandatedeprivinghimofhisdignityofgeneralissimo,andnominatingGallasashissuccessor。Surprisedbeforehisplanswereripe,anddesertedbymanyonwhosesupporthehadrelied,WallensteinretiredhastilyuponEgra。Duringabanquetinthecastle,threeofhisgeneralswhoremainedfaithfultotheirleaderweremurderedinthedeadofnight。Rousedbythenoise,Wallensteinleaptfromhisbed,andencounteredthreesoldierswhohadbeenhiredtodespatchhim。
  Speechlesswithastonishmentandindignation,hestretchedforthhisarms,andreceivinginhisbreastthestrokeofahalbert,felldeadwithoutagroan,inthefifty-firstyearofhisage。
  Thefollowinganecdote,curiouslyillustrativeofthestateofaffairsinWallenstein'scamp,isrelatedbySchillerinhisHistoryoftheThirtyYears'War,aworkcontainingafullaccountofthelifeandactionsofthisextraordinaryman。"TheextortionsofWallenstein'ssoldiersfromthepeasantshadatoneperiodreachedsuchapitch,thatseverepenaltiesweredenouncedagainstallmarauders;andeverysoldierwhoshouldbeconvictedoftheftwasthreatenedwithahalter。Shortlyafterwards,itchancedthatWallensteinhimselfmetasoldierstrayinginthefield,whomhecausedtobeseized,ashavingviolatedthelaw,andcondemnedtothegallowswithoutatrial,byhisusualwordofdoom:"Lettherascalbehung!"Thesoldierprotested,andprovedhisinnocence。
  "Thenletthemhangtheinnocent,"criedtheinhumanWallenstein;
  "andtheguiltywilltremblethemore。"Thepreparationsforcarryingthissentenceintoeffecthadalreadycommenced,whenthesoldier,whosawhimselflostwithoutremedy,formedthedesperateresolutionthathewouldnotdieunrevenged。Rushingfuriouslyuponhisleader,hewasseizedanddisarmedbythebystandersbeforehecouldcarryhisintentionintoeffect。"Nowlethimgo,"saidWallenstein;"itwillexciteterrorenough。""——ED。
  {9}PoniatowskiwasthecommanderofthePolishlegioninthearmiesofNapoleon,bywhomhewashighlyrespected。AtthebattleofLeipzig,foughtinOctober1813,PoniatowskiandMarshalMacDonaldwereappointedtocommandtherearofNapoleon'sarmy,which,aftertwodayshardfighting,wascompelledtoretreatbeforetheAllies。Thesegeneralsdefendedtheretreatofthearmysogallantly,thatalltheFrenchtroops,exceptthoseundertheirimmediatecommand,hadevacuatedthetown。Therear-guardwaspreparingtofollow,whentheonlybridgeovertheElsterthatremainedopentothemwasdestroyed,throughsomemistake。ThiseffectuallybarredtheescapeoftherearofNapoleon'sarmy。A
  few,amongwhomwasMarshalMacDonald,succeededinswimmingacross;
  butPoniatowski,aftermakingabraveresistance,andrefusingtosurrender,wasdrownedinmakingthesameattempt——ED。
  {10}Leipzighaslongbeenfamousasthechiefbook-martofGermany。AtthegreatEastermeetings,publishersfromallthedifferentstatesassembleatthe"BuchhandlerBorse,"andalargeamountofbusinessisdone。ThefairsofLeipzighavedonemuchtowardsestablishingthepositionofthiscityasoneofthefirsttradingtownsinGermany。Theytakeplacethreetimesannually:atNew-year,atEaster,andatMichaelmas;buttheEasterfairisbyfarthemostimportant。Thesecommercialmeetingslastaboutthreeweeks,andduringthistimethetownpresentsamostanimatedappearance,asthestreetsarethrongedwiththecostumesofalmosteverynation,thesmartdressoftheTyrolesecontrastinggailywiththesombregarbofthePolishJews。Theamountofbusinesstransactedatthesefairsisveryconsiderable;onseveraloccasions,abovetwentythousanddealershaveassembled。Thetradeisprincipallyinwoollencloths;butlighterwares,andevenornamentsofeverydescription,aresoldtoalargeextent。Themannerinwhicheveryavailableplaceistakenadvantageofisverycurious:archways,cellars,passages,andcourtyardsarealikefilledwithmerchandise,andthestreetsareattimessocrowdedastobealmostimpassable。Whenthethreeweekshavepassed,thewoodenboothswhichhavebeenerectedinthemarket-placeandtheprincipalstreetsaretakendown,thebuyersandsellersvanishtogether,andthevisitorwouldscarcelyrecogniseinthequietstreetsaroundhimthebustlingbusycityofafewdaysago——ED。
  {11}Thefirebrokeouton4thMay1842,andragedwiththeutmostfuryforthreedays。Wholestreetsweredestroyed,andatleast2000housesburnedtotheground。Nearlyhalfamillionofmoneywasraisedinforeigncountriestoassistinrebuildingthecity,ofwhichaboutatenthwascontributedbyBritain。Suchawfulfires,fearfulthoughtheyareatthetime,seemabsolutelynecessarytogreattowns,astheycauseneedfulimprovementstobemade,whichtheindolenceorselfishnessoftheinhabitantswouldotherwiseprevent。Thereisnotagreatcitythathasnotatonetimeoranothersufferedseverelyfromfire,andhasrisenoutoftheruinsgreaterthanbefore——ED。
  {12}TherearenodocksatHamburgh,consequentlyallthevesselslieintheriverElbe,andbothreceiveanddischargetheircargoesthere。MadamePfeiffer,however,ismistakeninsupposingthatonlyLondoncouldshowapictureofsomanyshipsandsomuchcommercialactivitysurpassingthatofHamburgh。Suchapicture,moreimpressiveeventhanthatseenintheElbe,isexhibitedeverydayintheMerseyortheHudson——ED。
  {13}Kiel,however,isaplaceofconsiderabletrade;anddoubtlessthereasonwhyMadamePfeiffersawsofewvesselsatitwaspreciselythesamereasonwhyshesawsomanyatHamburgh。Kielcontainsanexcellentuniversity——ED。
  {14}AtseaIcalculatebysea-miles,ofwhichsixtygotoadegree。
  {15}ThisgreatDanishsculptorwasbornofpoorparentsatCopenhagen,onthe19thNovember,1770;hisfatherwasanIcelander,andearnedhislivingbycarvingfigure-headsforships。Albert,or"Bertel,"asheismoregenerallycalled,wasaccustomedduringhisyouthtoassisthisfatherinhislaboursonthewharf。AtanearlyagehevisitedtheAcademyatCopenhagen,wherehisgeniussoonbegantomakeitselfconspicuous。Attheageofsixteenhehadwonasilver,andattwentyagoldmedal。Twoyearslaterhecarriedoffthe"great"goldmedal,andwassenttostudyabroadattheexpenseoftheAcademy。In1797wefindhimpractisinghisartatRomeundertheeyeofZoegatheDane,whodoesnot,however,seemtohavediscoveredindicationsofextraordinarygeniusinthelaboursofhisyoungcountryman。ButaworkwassoontoappearwhichshouldsetallquestionsastoThorwaldsen'stalentforeveratrest。In1801heproducedhiscelebratedstatueof"Jason,"whichwasatoncepronouncedbythegreatCanovatobe"aworkinanewandagrandstyle。"Afterthisperiodthepathoffamelayopenbeforetheyoungsculptor;hisbas-reliefsof"Summer"and"Autumn,"the"DanceoftheMuses,""CupidandPsyche,"andnumerousotherworks,followedeachotherinrapidsuccession;andatlength,in1812,Thorwaldsenproducedhisextraordinarywork,"TheTriumphofAlexander。"In1819Thorwaldsenreturnedrichandfamoustothecityhehadquittedasayouthtwenty-threeyearsbefore;hewasreceivedwithgreathonour,andmanyfeastsandrejoicingswereheldtocelebratehisarrival。AfterasojournofayearThorwaldsenagainvisitedRome,wherehecontinuedhislaboursuntil1838,when,wealthyandindependent,heresolvedtorestinhisnativecountry。
  ThistimehiswelcometoCopenhagenwasevenmoreenthusiasticthanin1819。Thewholeshorewaslinedwithspectators,andamidthunderingacclamationsthehorseswereunharnessedfromhiscarriage,andthesculptorwasdrawnintriumphbythepeopletohisatelier。DuringtheremainderofhislifeThorwaldsenpassedmuchofhistimeontheislandofNyso,wheremostofhislatestworkswereexecuted。OnSunday,March9th,1842,hehadbeenconversingwithacircleoffriendsinperfecthealth。Halm'stragedyofGriseldawasannouncedfortheevening,andThorwaldsenproceededtothetheatretowitnesstheperformance。Duringtheovertureherosetoallowastrangertopass,thenresumedhisseat,andamomentafterwardshisheadsunkonhisbreast——hewasdead!
  Hisfuneralwasmostsumptuous。Richandpoorunitedtodohonourtothememoryofthegreatman,whohadendearedhimselftothembyhisvirtuesasbyhisgenius。Thecrown-princefollowedthecoffin,andthepeopleofCopenhagenstoodintwolongrows,anduncoveredtheirheadsasthecoffinofthesculptorwascarriedpast。Thekinghimselftookpartinthesolemnity。AtthetimeofhisdeceaseThorwaldsenhadcompletedhisseventy-secondyear——ED。
  {16}TychodeBrahewasadistinguishedastronomer,wholivedbetween1546and1601。HewasanativeofDenmark。Hiswholelifemaybesaidtohavebeendevotedtoastronomy。AsmallworkthathepublishedwhenayoungmanbroughthimunderthenoticeoftheKingofDenmark,withwhoseassistanceheconstructed,onthesmallislandofHulln,afewmilesnorthofCopenhagen,thecelebratedObservatoryofUranienburg。Here,seatedin"theancientchair"
  referredtointhetext,andsurroundedbynumerousassistants,hedirectedforseventeenyearsaseriesofobservations,thathavebeenfoundextremelyaccurateanduseful。OnthedeathofhispatronheretiredtoPragueinBohemia,wherehewasemployedbyRodolphII。thenEmperorofGermany。HerehewasassistedbythegreatKepler,who,onTycho'sdeathin1601,succeededhim——ED。
  {17}ThefisheriesofIcelandhavebeenveryvaluable,andindeedthechiefsourceofthecommerceofthecountryeversinceitwasdiscovered。Thefishchieflycaughtarecodandthetuskorcat-
  fish。Theyareexportedinlargequantities,curedinvariousways。
  SincethediscoveryofNewfoundland,however,thefisheriesofIcelandhavelostmuchoftheirimportance。Soearlyas1415,theEnglishsentfishingvesselstotheIcelandiccoast,andthesailorswhowereonboard,itwouldappear,behavedsobadlytothenativesthatHenryV。hadtomakesomecompensationtotheKingofDenmarkfortheirconduct。ThegreatestnumberoffishingvesselsfromEnglandthatevervisitedIcelandwasduringthereignofJamesI。,whosemarriagewiththesisteroftheDanishkingmightprobablymakeEnglandatthetimethemostfavourednation。ItwasinhistimethatanEnglishpirate,"GentlemanJohn,"ashewascalled,committedgreatravagesinIceland,forwhichJameshadafterwardstomakecompensation。ThechiefmarketsforthefishareintheCatholiccountriesofEurope。Intheseventeenthcentury,agreattrafficinfishwascarriedonbetweenIcelandandSpain——ED。
  {18}ThedueschargedbytheDanishGovernmentonallvesselspassingthroughtheSoundhavebeenleviedsince1348,andthereforeenjoyaprescriptiverightofmorethanfivehundredyears。TheybringtotheDanishGovernmentayearlyrevenueofaboutaquarterofamillion;and,inconsiderationofthedues,theGovernmenthastosupportcertainlighthouses,andotherwisetorendersafeandeasythenavigationofthisgreatentrancetotheBaltic。Sound-
  dueswerefirstpaidinthepalmycommercialdaysoftheHanseaticLeague。ThatpowerfulcombinationofmerchantshadsufferedseverelyfromtheravagesofDanishpirates,royalandotherwise;
  butultimatelytheybecamesopowerfulthattherichmerchantcouldbeattheroyalbuccaneer,andtamehisferocitysoeffectuallyastoinducehimtobuildandmaintainthosebeacon-lightsontheshoresoftheSound,forwhoseusetheyandallnationsandmerchantsafterthemhaveagreedtopaycertainduties——ED。
  {19}TheFeroeIslandsconsistofagreatmanyislets,someofthemmererocks,lyingabouthalfwaybetweenthenorthcoastofScotlandandIceland。AtonetimetheybelongedtoNorway,butcameintothepossessionofDenmarkatthesametimeasIceland。Theyareexceedinglymountainous,someofthemountainsattaininganelevationofabout2800feet。Thelargesttownorvillagedoesnotcontainmorethan1500or1600inhabitants。Thepopulationlivechieflyontheproduceoftheirlargeflocksofsheep,andonthedownprocured,oftenatgreatrisktohumanlife,fromtheeider-
  duckandotherbirdsbywhichtheislandisfrequented——ED。
  {20}Ishouldbetrulysorryif,inthisdescriptionofour"lifeaboardship,"IhadsaidanythingwhichcouldgiveoffencetomykindfriendHerrKnudson。Ihave,however,presumedthateveryoneisawarethatthemodeoflifeatseaisdifferenttolifeinfamilies。Ihaveonlytoadd,thatHerrKnudsonlivedmostagreeablynotonlyinCopenhagen,butwhatisfarmoreremarkable,inIcelandalso,andwasprovidedwitheverycomfortprocurableinthelargestEuropeantowns。
  {21}Itisnotonlyatseathatingeniousexcusesfordrinkingareinvented。Theloversofgoodorbadliquoronlandfindthesereasonsas"plentyasblackberries,"andapplythemwithamarvellouswantofstintorscruple。Inwarmclimatestheliquorisdranktokeepthedrinkercool,incoldtokeephimwarm;inhealthtopreventhimfrombeingsick,insicknesstobringhimbacktohealth。Veryseldomistherealreason,"becauseIlikeit,"given;
  andalltheseexcusesandreasonsmustberegardedasimplyingsomelingeringsenseofshameattheact,andasformingpartof"thehomagethatvicealwayspaystovirtue。"——ED。
  {22}Thesailorscallthosewaves"Spanish"which,comingfromthewest,distinguishthemselvesbytheirsize。
  {23}Theseislandsformarockygroup,onlyoneofwhichisinhabited,lyingaboutfifteenmilesfromthecoast。TheyaresaidtoderivetheirnamefromsomenativesofIreland,calledWest-men,whovisitedIcelandshortlyafteritsdiscoverybytheNorwegians。
  Inthisthereisnothingimprobable,forweknowthatduringtheninthandtenthcenturiestheDanesandNormans,calledEasterlings,mademanydescentsontheIrishcoast;andoneNorwegianchiefisreportedtohaveassumedsovereignpowerinIrelandabouttheyear866,thoughhewasafterwardsdeposed,andflungintoalough,wherehewasdrowned:ratheranignominiousdeathfora"sea-king。"——ED。
  {24}Thiswork,whichMadamePfeifferdoesnotpraisetoohighly,wasfirstpublishedin1810。Afterpassingthroughtwoeditions,itwasreprintedin1841,atacheapprice,inthevaluablepeople'seditionsofstandardworks,publishedbyMessrs。ChambersofEdinburgh——ED。
  {25}ItisrelatedofIngoldthathecarriedwithhimonhisvoyagethedoorofhisformerhouseinIreland,andthatwhenheapproachedthecoasthecastitintothesea,watchingthepointoflandwhichittouched;andonthatlandhefixedhisfuturehome。ThislandisthesameonwhichthetownofReikjaviknowstands。Theseoldsea-
  kings,likethemenofAthens,were"inallthingstoosuperstitious。"——ED。
  {26}Thesesea-rovers,thatweretothenationsofEuropeduringthemiddleageswhattheDanes,Norwegians,andothernorthmenwereatanearlierperiod,enjoyedatthistimethefullflowoftheirlawlessprosperity。Theirinsolenceandpowerweresogreatthatmanynations,ourownincluded,weregladtopurchase,byayearlypayment,exemptionfromtheattacksofthesesea-rovers。TheAmericanspaidthistributesolateas1815。TheunfortunateIcelanderswhowerecarriedoffintheseventeenthcenturynearlyalldiedascaptivesinAlgiers。Attheendoftenyearstheywereliberated;butofthefourhundredonlythirty-sevenwerealivewhenthejoyfulintelligencereachedtheplaceoftheircaptivity;andofthesetwenty-fourdiedbeforerejoiningtheirnativeland——ED。
  {27}Thistown,thecapitalofIceland,andtheseatofgovernment,isbuiltonanarmoftheseacalledtheFaxefiord,inthesouth-
  westpartoftheisland。Theresidentpopulationdoesnotexceed500,butthisisgreatlyincreasedduringtheannualfairs。Itconsistsmainlyoftwostreetsatrightanglestoeachother。Itcontainsalargechurchbuiltofstone,roofedwithtiles;anobservatory;theresidencesofthegovernorandthebishop,andtheprison,whichisperhapsthemostconspicuousbuildinginthetown——
  ED。
  {28}AsMadamePfeifferhadthusnoopportunityofattendingaballinIceland,thefollowingdescriptionofonegivenbySirGeorgeMackenziemaybeinterestingtothereader。
  "WegaveaballtotheladiesofReikjavikandtheneighbourhood。
  Thecompanybegantoassembleaboutnineo'clock。Wewereshewnintoasmalllow-roofedroom,inwhichwereanumberofmen,buttomysurpriseIsawnofemales。Wesoonfoundthem,however,inoneadjoining,whereitisthecustomforthemtowaittilltheirpartnersgotohandthemout。Onenteringthisapartment,IfeltconsiderabledisappointmentatnotobservingasinglewomandressedintheIcelandiccostume。ThedresseshadsomeresemblancetothoseofEnglishchambermaids,butwerenotsosmart。Anoldlady,thewifeofthemanwhokeptthetavern,washabitedlikethepicturesofourgreat-grandmothers。Sometimeafterthedancingcommenced,thebishop'slady,andtwoothers,appearedintheproperdressofthecountry。