"WefoundourselvesextremelyawkwardindancingwhattheladieswerepleasedtocallEnglishcountrydances。Themusic,whichcamefromasolitaryill-scrapedfiddle,accompaniedbytherumblingofthesamehalf-rottendrumthathadsummonedthehighcourtofjustice,andbythejinglingofarustytriangle,wastomeutterlyunintelligible。Theextremerapiditywithwhichitwasnecessarytogothroughmanycomplicatedevolutionsinpropertime,completelybewilderedus;andourmistakes,andfrequentcollisionswithourneighbours,affordedmuchamusementtoourfairpartners,whofounditforalongtimeimpracticabletokeepusintherighttrack。
Whenallowedtobreathealittle,wehadanopportunityofremarkingsomesingularitiesinthestateofsocietyandmannersamongtheDanesofReikjavik。Whileunengagedinthedance,themendrinkpunch,andwalkaboutwithtobacco-pipesintheirmouths,spittingplentifullyonthefloor。TheunrestrainedevacuationofsalivaseemstobeafashionalloverIceland;butwhetherthenativeslearneditfromtheDanes,ortheDanesfromthenatives,wedidnotascertain。Severalladieswhosevirtuecouldnotbearaverystrictscrutinywerepointedouttous。
"Duringthedances,teaandcoffeewerehandedabout;andnegusandpunchwerereadyforthosewhochosetopartakeofthem。Acoldsupperwasprovided,consistingofhams,beef,cheese,&c。,andwine。Whileattable,severaloftheladiessang,andacquittedthemselvestolerablywell。ButIcouldnotenjoytheperformance,onaccountoftheincessanttalking,whichwasasfashionablearudenessinIcelandasitisnowinBritain。This,however,wasnotconsideredasintheleastunpolite。Oneofthesongswasinpraiseofthedonorsoftheentertainment;and,duringthechorus,theceremonyoftouchingeachother'sglasseswasperformed。Aftersupper,waltzesweredanced,inastylethatremindedmeofsoldiersmarchingincadencetothedeadmarchinSaul。Thoughtherewasnoneedofartificiallight,anumberofcandleswereplacedintherooms。Whenthecompanybrokeup,aboutthreeo'clock,thesunwashighabovethehorizon。"
{29}Amanofeightyyearsofageisseldomseenontheisland——
Kerguelen。
{30}Kerguelenwritingin1768says:"Theyliveduringthesummerprincipallyoncod'sheads。Acommonfamilymakeamealofthreeorfourcods'headsboiledinsea-water。"——ED。
{31}ThisbakehouseistheonlyoneinIceland,andproducesasgoodbreadandbiscuitasanythatcanbeprocuredinDenmark。[InKerguelen'stime1768breadwasveryuncommoninIceland。ItwasbroughtfromCopenhagen,andconsistedofbroadthincakes,orsea-
biscuits,madeofrye-flour,andextremelyblack——ED。]
{32}Inallhighlatitudesfatoilysubstancesareconsumedtoavastextentbythenatives。Thedesireseemstobeinstinctive,notacquired。Adifferentmodeoflivingwouldundoubtedlyrenderthemmoresusceptibletothecoldoftheseinclementregions。Manyinterestinganecdotesarerelatedofthefondnessofthesehyperboreanracesforakindoffoodfromwhichwewouldturnindisgust。BeforegaswasintroducedintoEdinburgh,andthecitywaslightedbyoil-lamps,severalRussiannoblemenvisitedthatmetropolis;anditissaidthattheirlongingfortheluxuryoftrain-oilbecameoneeveningsointense,that,unabletoprocurethedelicacyinanyotherway,theyemptiedtheoil-lamps。ParryrelatesthatwhenhewaswinteringintheArcticregions,oneoftheseamen,whohadbeensmittenwiththecharmsofanEsquimauxlady,wishedtomakeherapresent,andknowingthetastepeculiartothoseregions,hegaveherwithallduehonoursapoundofcandles,sixtothepound!Thepresentwassoacceptabletothelady,thatsheeagerlydevouredthelotinthepresenceofherwonderingadmirer——ED。
{33}AnAmericantravellinginIcelandin1852thusdescribes,inalettertotheBostonPost,themodeoftravelling:-"Alltravelisonhorseback。Immensenumbersofhorsesareraisedinthecountry,andtheyareexceedinglycheap。Asfortravellingonfoot,evenshortjourneys,nooneeverthinksofit。Theroadsaresobadforwalking,andgenerallysogoodforridingthatshoe-leather,tosaynothingoffatigue,wouldcostnearlyasmuchashorse-flesh。Theirhorsesaresmall,compact,hardylittleanimals,asizelargerthanShetlandponies,butrarelyexceedingfrom12or13。5handshigh。A
strangerintravellingmustalwayshavea'guide,'andifhedoesgoequippedforagoodjourneyandintendstomakegoodspeed,hewantsasmanyassixhorses;oneforhimself,onefortheguide,onefortheluggage,andthreerelayhorses。Thenwhenonesetofhorsesaretiredthesaddlesareexchangedtotheothers。Therelayhorsesaretiedtogetherandareeitherledordrivenbeforetheothers。A
tentisoftencarried,unlessatravellerchoosestochanceitforhislodgings。SuchanarticleasanhotelisnotkeptinIcelandoutofthecapital。Youmustalsocarryyourprovisionswithyou,asyouwillbeabletogetbutlittleonyourroute。Plentyofmilkcanbehad,andsomefresh-waterfish。Theluggageiscarriedintrunksthatarehungoneachsideofthehorse,onarudeframethatservesasapack-saddle。Underthis,broadpiecesofturfareplacedtopreventgallingthehorse'sback。"
{34}Thedownoftheeider-duckformsamostimportantandvaluablearticleofIcelandiccommerce。Itissaidthattheweightofdownprocurablefromeachnestisabouthalfapound,whichisreducedone-halfbycleansing。Thedownissoldatabouttwelveshillingsperpound,sothattheproduceofeachnestisaboutthreeshillings。Theeider-duckisnearlyaslargeasthecommongoose;
andsomehavebeenfoundontheFernIslands,offthecoastofNorthumberland——ED。
{35}ThesameremarkapplieswithequalforcetomanypeoplewhoarenotIcelanders。ItwasoncethehabitamongaportionofthepopulationofLancashire,onreturningfrommarket,tocarrytheirgoodsinabagattachedtooneendofastringslungovertheirshoulders,whichwasbalancedbyabagcontainingastoneattheother。Sometimeago,itwaspointedouttoaworthymanthusreturningfrommarket,thatitwouldbeeasierforhimtothrowawaythestone,andmakehalfofhisloadbalancetheotherhalf,buttheadvicewasrejectedwithdisdain;theplanhehadadoptedwasthatofhisforefathers,andhewouldonnoaccountdepartfromit——ED。
{36}ThedescriptionoftheWolf'sHollowoccursinthesecondactofDerFreyschutz,whenRodolphsings:
"Howhorrid,dark,andwild,anddrear,Doththisgapinggulfappear!
Itseemsthehueofhelltowear。
Thebellowingthunderburstsyonclouds,Themoonwithbloodhasstainedherlight!
Whatformsarethoseinmistyshrouds,Thatstalkbeforemysight?
Andnow,hush!hush!
Theowlishootinginyonbush;
Howyonderoak-tree'sblastedarmsUponmeseemtofrown!
Myheartrecoils,butallalarmsArevain:fatecalls,Imustdown,down。"
{37}Thereadermustbearinmindthat,duringtheseasonofwhichIspeak,thereisnotwilight,muchlessnight,inIceland。
{38}ThespringsofCarlsbadaresaidtohavebeenunknownuntilaboutfivehundredyearsago,whenahunting-dogbelongingtooneoftheemperorsofGermanyfellin,andbyhishowlingattractedthehunterstothespot。Thetemperatureofthechiefspringis165
degrees——ED。
{39}HistorytellsofthisgreatIcelandicpoet,thatowingtohistreacherythefreeislandofIcelandcamebeneaththeNorwegiansceptre。ForthisreasonhecouldneverappearinIcelandwithoutastrongguard,andthereforevisitedtheAllthingundertheprotectionofasmallarmyof600men。BeingatlengthsurprisedbyhisenemiesinhishouseatReikiadal,hefellbeneaththeirblows,afterashortandineffectualresistance。[SnorriSturluson,themostdistinguishednameofwhichIcelandcanboast,wasborn,in1178,atHoam。Inhisearlyyearshewasremarkablyfortunateinhisworldlyaffairs。Thefortunehederivedfromhisfatherwassmall,butbymeansofarichmarriage,andbyinheritance,hesoonbecameproprietoroflargeestatesinIceland。Somewriterssaythathisguardof600men,duringhisvisittotheAllthing,wasintendednotasadefence,asindicatedinMadamePfeiffer'snote,butforthepurposesofdisplay,andtoimpresstheinhabitantswithforcibleideasofhisinfluenceandpower。HewasinvitedtothecourtoftheNorwegianking,andthereheeitherpromisedorwasbribedtobringIcelandundertheNorwegianpower。Forthishehasbeengreatlyblamed,andstigmatisedasatraitor;thoughitwouldappearfromsomehistoriansthatheonlyundertooktodobypeaceablemeanswhatotherwisetheNorwegiankingswouldhaveeffectedbyforce,andthussavedhiscountryfromaforeigninvasion。Butbethisasitmay,itisquiteclearthathesunkintheestimationofhiscountrymen,andthefeelingagainsthimbecamesostrong,thathewasobligedtoflytoNorway。Hereturned,however,in1239,andintwoyearsafterwardshewasassassinatedbyhisownson-in-law。TheworkbywhichheischieflyknownistheHeimskringla,orChronicleoftheSea-KingsofNorway,oneofthemostvaluablepiecesofnorthernhistory,whichhasbeenadmirablytranslatedintoEnglishbyMr。SamuelLaing。ThiscuriousnameofHeimskringlawasgiventotheworkbecauseitcontainsthewordswithwhichbegins,andmeansliterallythecircleoftheworld——
ED。]
{40}AtranslationofthispoemwillbefoundintheAppendix。
[NotincludedinthisGutenbergeText——DP]
{41}InIceland,asinDenmark,itisthecustomtokeepthedeadaweekaboveground。Itmaybereadilyimaginedthattoanon-
Icelandicsenseofsmell,itisanirksometasktobepresentataburialfrombeginningtoend,andespeciallyinsummer。ButIwillnotdenythatthecontinuedsensationmayhavepartlyproceededfromimagination。
{42}EveryoneinIcelandrides。
{43}Icannotforbearmentioningacuriouscircumstancehere。WhenIwasatthefootofMountEtnain1842,thefieryelementwascalmed;somemonthsaftermydepartureitflamedwithrenewedforce。
When,onmyreturnfromHecla,IcametoReikjavik,IsaidjocularlythatitwouldbemoststrangeifthisEtnaofthenorthshouldalsohaveaneruptionnow。ScarcelyhadIleftIcelandmorethanfiveweekswhenaneruption,moreviolentthantheformerone,reallytookplace。Thiscircumstanceisthemoreremarkable,asithadbeeninreposeforeightyyears,andwasalreadylookeduponasaburnt-outvolcano。IfIweretoreturntoIcelandnow,Ishouldbelookeduponasaprophetessofevil,andmylifewouldscarcelybesafe。
{44}Everypeasantintolerablygoodcircumstancescarriesalittletentwithhimwhenheleaveshomeforafewdays。Thesetentsare,attheutmost,threefeethigh,fiveorsixfeetlong,andthreebroad。
{45}"Thoughtheirpovertydisablesthemfromimitatingthehospitalityoftheirancestorsinallrespects,yetthedesireofdoingitstillexists:theycheerfullygiveawaythelittletheyhavetospare,andexpresstheutmostjoyandsatisfactionifyouarepleasedwiththegift。"UnovonTroil,1772——ED。
{46}ThepresenceofAmericanshipsintheportofGottenburgisnottobewonderedat,seeingthatnearlythree-fourthsofalltheironexportedfromGottenburgistoAmerica——ED。
{47}"St。Stephen'ssteeple"is450feethigh,beingabout40feethigherthanSt。Paul's,andformspartofSt。Stephen'sCathedralinVienna,amagnificentGothicbuilding,thatdatesasfarbackasthetwelfthcentury。Ithasagreatbell,thatweighsabouteighteentons,beingmorethandoubletheweightofthebellinSt。Peter'satRome,andfourtimestheweightofthe"GreatTomofLincoln。"
ThemetalusedconsistedofcannonstakenfromtheTurksduringtheirmemorablesiegesofVienna。Thecathedralis350feetlongand200wide,beinglessthanSt。Paul'sinLondon,whichis510
feetlongand282wide——ED。
{48}TheStorthingisthenamegiventotheNorwegianparliament,whichassemblesonceeverythreeyearsatChristiania。Thetimeandplaceofmeetingarefixedbylaw,andthekinghasnopowertopreventorpostponeitsassembly。Itconsistsofaboutahundredmembers,whodividethemselvesintotwohouses。Themembersmustnotbeunderthirtyyearsofage,andmusthavelivedfortenyearsinNorway。Theelectorsarerequiredtobetwenty-fiveyearsofage,andtobeeitherburgessesofatown,ortopossesspropertyoftheannualvalueof30l。Themembersmustpossessthesamequalification。ThemembersoftheStorthingareusuallyplain-
spoken,sensiblemen,whohavenodesiretoshineasorators,butwhodespatchwithgreatnativesagacitythebusinessbroughtbeforethem。ThisStorthingisthemostindependentlegislativeassemblyinEurope;fornotonlyhasthekingnopowertopreventitsmeetingattheappointedtime,butshouldherefusetoassenttoanylawsthatarepassed,theselawscomeintoforcewithouthisassent,providedtheyarepassedbythreesuccessiveparliaments——ED。
{49}ThepresentkingofSwedenandNorwayisOscar,oneofthefewfortunatescionsofthoselowlyfamiliesthatwereraisedtoroyalpoweranddignitybyNapoleon。Hisfather,Bernadotte,wasthesonofanadvocate,andenteredtheFrencharmyasacommonsoldier;inthatserviceherosetotherankofmarshal,andthenbecamecrown-
prince,andultimatelykingofSweden。Hediedin1844。ThemotherofOscarwasDesireeClary,asisterofJulieClary,wifeofJosephBonaparte,theelderbrotherofNapoleon。ThisladywasaskedinmarriagebyNapoleonhimself,butherfatherrefusedhisassent;andinsteadofbecominganunfortunateempressofFrance,shebecameafortunatequeenofSwedenandNorway。OscarwasbornatParisin1799,andreceivedhiseducationchieflyinHanover。HeaccompaniedhisfathertoSwedenin1810,andascendedthethroneonhisfather'sdeathin1844。In1824hemarriedJosephineBeauharnois,daughterofPrinceEugene,andgranddaughterofthebrilliantandfascinatingJosephine,thefirstandbestwifeofNapoleon。Oscarismuchbelovedbyhissubjects;hisadministrationismild,just,andequable;andhispersonalabilitiesandacquirementsarefarbeyondtheaverageofcrownedheads——ED。
{50}Bergenisatownofabouttwenty-fivethousandinhabitants,situatedneartheKonsFiord,onthewestcoastofNorway,anddistantabout350milesfromChristiania。Itistheseatofabishopric,andaplaceofveryconsiderabletrade,itsexportsbeingchieflyfish。IthasgivenitsnametoacountyandatownshipinthestateofNewJersey。TherearethreeotherBergens,——oneintheislandofRugen,oneintheNetherlands,andanotherintheelectorateofHesse——ED。
{51}KulleistheSwedishforhill。
{52}DelekarlienisaSwedishprovince,situatedninetyoronehundredmilesnorthofStockholm。
{53}ThefamilyofSturrewasoneofthemostdistinguishedinSweden。StenSturreintroducedprintingintoSweden,foundedtheUniversityofUpsala,andinducedmanylearnedmentocomeover。HewasmortallywoundedinabattleagainsttheDanes,anddiedin1520。
Hissuccessorsasgovernors,Suante,NilsonSturre,andhisson,StenSturretheyounger,stillliveinthememoryoftheSwedishnation,andarehonouredfortheirpatriotismandvalour。
{54}TheUniversityofUpsalaisthemostcelebratedinthenorth。
ItowesitsorigintoStenSturre,theregentofthekingdom,bywhomitwasfoundedin1476,onthesameplanastheUniversityofParis。ThroughtheinfluenceoftheJesuits,whowishedtoestablishanewacademyinStockholm,itwasdissolvedin1583,butre-establishedin1598。GustavusVasa,whowaseducatedatUpsala,gaveitmanyprivileges,andmuchencouragement;andGustavusAdolphusreconstitutedit,andgiveitveryliberalendowments。
Therearetwenty-fourprofessors,andthenumberofstudentsisbetweenfourandfivehundred——ED。
{55}SeenovelofIvar,theSkjutsBoy,byMissEmilieCarlen。
{56}AtCalmarwasconcluded,in1397,thefamoustreatywhichbearsitsname,bywhichDenmark,Sweden,andNorwaywereunitedunderonecrown,thatcrownplacednominallyontheheadofEricDukeofPomerania,butvirtuallyonthatofhisauntMargaret,whohasreceivedthenameof"theSemiramisoftheNorth。"——ED。
{57}ThereisnowarailwaydirectfromHamburghtoBerlin——ED。
{58}Aflorinisabouttwoshillingssterling——ED。
{59}HerrT。SchefferofModling,nearVienna,givesthefollowingcharacteristicofthisnewdipteralanimal,whichbelongstothefamilymuscidae,andresemblesthespeciesborborus:
Antennaedeflexae,breves,triarticulatae,articuloultimophoereco;
sedanuda。
Hypoctomasubprominulum,frontelata,setosa。Oculirotundi,remoti。Abdomenquinqueannulatum,dorsonudo。Tarsisimplices。
Alaeincumbentes,abdominelongiores,nervoprimosimplici。
Niger,abdominenitido,antennispedibusquerufopiceis。