ThelittlechapelatKrisuvikisonlytwenty-twofeetlongbytenbroad；onmyarrivalitwashastilypreparedformyreception。
　　Saddles，ropes，clothes，hats，andotherarticleswhichlayscatteredabout，werehastilyflungintoacorner；mattressesandsomenicesoftpillowssoonappeared，andaverytolerablebedwaspreparedformeonalargechestinwhichthevestmentsofthepriest，thecoveringsofthealtar，&c。，weredeposited。Iwouldwillinglyhavelockedmyselfin，eatenmyfrugalsupper，andafterwardswrittenafewpagesofmydiarybeforeretiringtorest；
　　butthiswasoutofthequestion。Theentirepopulationofthevillageturnedouttoseeme，oldandyounghastenedtothechurch，andstoodroundinacircleandgazedatme。
　　Irksomeasthiscuriositywas，Iwasobligedtoendureitpatiently，forIcouldnothavesentthesegoodpeopleawaywithoutseriouslyoffendingthem；soIbeganquietlytounpackmylittleportmanteau，andproceededtoboilmycoffeeoveraspirit-lamp。Awhisperingconsultationimmediatelybegan；theyseemedparticularlystruckbymymodeofpreparingcoffee，andfollowedeveryoneofmymovementswitheagereyes。Myfrugalmealdispatched，Iresolvedtotrythepatienceofmyaudience，and，takingoutmyjournal，begantowrite。
　　Forafewminutestheyremainedquiet，thentheybegantowhisperonetoanother，"Shewrites，shewrites，"andthiswasrepeatednumberlesstimes。Therewasnosignofanydispositiontodepart；I
　　believeIcouldhavesattheretilldoomsday，andfailedtotiremyaudienceout。Atlength，afterthisscenehadlastedafullhour，I
　　couldstanditnolonger，andwasfaintorequestmyamiablevisitorstoretire，asIwishedtogotobed。
　　Mysleepthatnightwasnoneofthesweetest。Acertainfeelingofdiscomfortalwaysattachestothefactofsleepinginachurchalone，inthemidstofagrave-yard。Besidesthis，onthenightinquestionsuchadreadfulstormarosethatthewoodenwallscreakedandgroanedasthoughtheirfoundationsweregivingway。Thecoldwasalsorathersevere，mythermometerinsidethechurchshewingonlytwodegreesabovezero。Iwastrulythankfulwhenapproachingdaybroughtwithitthewelcomehourofdeparture。
　　June5th。
　　TheheavysleepinessandextremeindolenceofanIcelandicguiderenderdeparturebeforeseveno'clockinthemorningathingnottobethoughtof。Thisis，however，oflittleconsequence，asthereisnonightinIcelandatthistimeofyear。
　　AlthoughthedistancewasmateriallyincreasedbyreturningtoReikjavikbywayofGrundivikandKeblevik，IchosethisrouteinordertopassthroughthewildestoftheinhabitedtractsinIceland。
　　Thefirststage，fromKrisuviktoGrundivik，adistanceoftwelvetofourteenmiles，laythroughfieldsoflava，consistingmostlyofsmallblocksofstoneandfragments，fillingthevalleysocompletelythatnotasinglegreenspotremained。Iheremetwithmassesoflavawhichpresentedanappearanceofsingularbeauty。
　　Theywereblackmounds，tenortwelvefeetinheight，pileduponeachotherinthemostvariedforms，theirbasescoveredwithabroadbandofwhitish-colouredmoss，whilethetopswerebrokenintopeaksandconesofthemostfantasticshapes。Theselava-streamsseemtodatefromarecentperiod，asthemassesaresomewhatscalyandglazed。
　　Grundivik，alittlevillageofafewwretchedcottages，lieslikeanoasisinthisdesertoflava。
　　Myguidewishedtoremainhere，assertingthattherewasnoplacebetweenthisandKeblevikwhereIcouldpassthenight，andthatitwouldbeimpossibleforourhorses，exhaustedastheywerewithyesterday'smarch，tocarryustoKeblevikthatnight。Thetruereasonofthissuggestionwasthathewishedtoprolongthejourneyforanotherday。
　　LuckilyIhadagoodmapwithme，andbydintofconsultingitcouldcalculatedistanceswithtolerableaccuracy；itwasalsomycustombeforestartingonajourneytomakeparticularinquiriesastohowIshouldarrangethedailystages。
　　SoIinsisteduponproceedingatonce；andsoonwewerewendingourwaythroughfieldsoflavatowardsStad，asmallvillagesixorsevenmilesdistantfromGrundivik。
　　OnthewayInoticedamountainofmostsingularappearance。Incolouritcloselyresemblediron；itssideswereperfectlysmoothandshining，andstreaksofthecolourofyellowochretraversedithereandthere。
　　Stadistheresidenceofapriest。Contrarytotheassertionsofmyguide，IfoundthisplacefarmorecheerfulandhabitablethanGrundivik。Whilstourhorseswereresting，thepriestpaidmeavisit，andconductedme，not，asIanticipated，intohishouse，butintothechurch。Chairsandstoolswerequicklybroughtthere，andmyhostintroducedhiswifeandchildrentome，afterwhichwepartookofcoffee，breadandcheese，&c。Ontherailsurroundingthealtarhungtheclothesofthepriestandhisfamily，differinglittleintextureandmakefromthoseofthepeasants。
　　Thepriestappearedtobeaveryintelligent，well-readman。I
　　couldspeaktheDanishlanguageprettyfluently，andwasthereforeabletoconversewithhimonvarioussubjects。OnhearingthatI
　　hadalreadybeeninPalestine，heputanumberofquestionstome，fromwhichIcouldplainlyseethathewasalikewellacquaintedwithgeography，history，naturalscience，&c。Heaccompaniedmeseveralmilesonmyroad，andwechattedawaythetimeverypleasantly。
　　ThedistancebetweenKrisuvikandKeblevikisaboutforty-twomiles。
　　Theroadliesthroughamostdrearylandscape，amongvastdesertplains，frequentlytwenty-fivetothirtymilesincircumference，entirelydivestedofalltracesofvegetation，andcoveredthroughouttheirextremeareabymassesoflava——gloomymonumentsofvolcanicagency。Andyethere，attheveryheartofthesubterraneanfire，Isawonlyasinglemountain，thesummitofwhichhadfallenin，andpresentedtheappearanceofacrater。Therestwereallcompletelyclosed，terminatingsometimesinabeautifulroundtop，andsometimesinsharppeaks；inotherinstancestheyformedlongnarrowchains。
　　Whocantellwhencetheseall-destroyingmassesoflavahavepouredforth，orhowmanyhundredyearstheyhavelaininthesepetrifiedvalleys?
　　Keblevikliesonthesea-coast；buttheharbourisinsecure，sothatshipsremainhereatanchoronlysolongasisabsolutelynecessary；
　　therearefrequentlyonlytwoorthreeshipsintheharbour。
　　Afewwoodenhouses，twoofwhichbelongtoHerrKnudson，andsomepeasants'cottages，aretheonlybuildingsinthislittlevillage。
　　Iwashospitablyreceived，andrestedfromthetoilsofthedayatthehouseofHerrSiverson，HerrKnudson'smanager。
　　OnthefollowingdayJune6thIhadalongridetoReikjavik，thirty-sixgoodmiles，mostlythroughfieldsoflava。
　　ThewholetractofcountryfromGrundivikalmosttoHavenfiordiscalled"Thelava-fieldsofReikianes。"
　　Tiredandalmostbenumbedwithcold，IarrivedintheeveningatReikjavik，withnootherwishthantoretiretorestasfastaspossible。
　　InthesethreedaysIhadridden114miles，besidesenduringmuchfromcold，storms，andrain。Tomygreatsurprise，theroadshadgenerallybeengood；therewere，however，manyplaceshighlydangerousanddifficult。
　　Butwhatmatteredthesefatigues，forgotten，astheywere，afterasinglenight'srest?whatweretheyincomparisontotheunutterablybeautifulandmarvellousphenomenaofthenorth，whichwillremaineverpresenttomyimaginationsolongasmemoryshallbesparedme?
　　Thedistancesofthisexcursionwere:FromReikjaviktoKrisuvik，37miles；fromKrisuviktoKeblevik，39miles；fromKebleviktoReikjavik，38miles:total，114miles。
　　CHAPTERV
　　Astheweathercontinuedfine，Iwishedtolosenotimeincontinuingmywanderings。Ihadnexttomakeatourofsome560
　　miles；itwasthereforenecessarythatIshouldtakeanextrahorse，partlythatitmightcarrymyfewpackages，consistingofapillow，somerye-bread，cheese，coffee，andsugar，butchieflythatImightbeenabledtochangehorseseveryday，asonehorsewouldnothavebeenequaltothefatigueofsolongajourney。
　　Myformerguidecouldnotaccompanymeonmypresentjourney，ashewasunacquaintedwithmostoftheroads。Mykindprotectors，HerrKnudsonandHerrBernhoft，wereobligingenoughtoprovideanotherguideforme；adifficulttask，asitisarareoccurrencetofindanIcelanderwhounderstandstheDanishlanguage，andwhohappenstobesoberwhenhisservicesarerequired。Atlengthapeasantwasfoundwhosuitedourpurpose；butheconsideredtwoflorinsperdiemtoolittlepay，soIwasobligedtogiveanadditionalzwanziger。
　　Ontheotherhand，itwasarrangedthattheguideshouldalsotaketwohorses，inorderthathemightchangeeveryday。
　　The16thofJunewasfixedforthecommencementofourjourney。
　　Fromtheveryfirstdaymyguidedidnotshewhimselfinanamiablepointofview。Onthemorningofourdeparturehissaddlehadtobepatchedtogether，andinsteadofcomingwithtwohorses，heappearedwithonlyone。Hecertainlypromisedtobuyasecondwhenweshouldhaveproceededsomemiles，addingthatitwouldbecheapertobuyoneatalittledistancefromthe"capital。"Iatoncesuspectedthiswasmerelyanexcuseoftheguide's，andthathewishedtherebytoavoidhavingthecareoffourhorses。TheeventprovedIwasright；notasinglehorsecouldbefoundthatsuited，andsomypoorlittleanimalhadtocarrytheguide'sbaggageinadditiontomyown。
　　Loadingthepack-horsesisabusinessofsomedifficulty，andisconductedinthefollowingmanner:sundrylargepiecesofdriedturfarelaiduponthehorse'sback，butnotfastened；overtheseisbuckledaroundpieceofwood，furnishedwithtwoorthreepegs。Tothesepegsthechestsandpackagesaresuspended。Iftheweightisnotquiteequallybalanced，itisnecessarytostopandrepackfrequently，forthewholeloadatoncegetsaskew。
　　Thetrunksusedinthiscountryaremassivelyconstructedofwood，coveredwitharoughhide，andstrengthenedonallsideswithnails，asthoughtheywereintendedtolastaneternity。Thepoorhorseshaveaconsiderableweighttobearinemptyboxesalone，sothatverylittlerealluggagecanbetaken。Theweightwhichahorsehastocarryduringalongjourneyshouldneverexceed150lbs。
　　Itisimpossibletorememberhowmanytimesourbaggagehadtoberepackedduringaday'sjourney。Thegreatpiecesofturfwouldneverstayintheirplaces，andeverymomentsomethingwaswrong。
　　Nothinglessthanamiracle，however，canprevailonanIcelandertodepartfromhisregularroutine。Hisancestorspackedinsuchandsuchamanner，andsohemustpackalso。{35}
　　Wehadajourneyofabovefortymilesbeforeusthefirstday，andyet，onaccountofthedamagedsaddle，wecouldnotstartbeforeeighto'clockinthemorning。
　　ThefirsttwelveorfourteenmilesofourjourneylaythroughthegreatvalleyinwhichReikjavikissituated；thevalleycontainsmanylowhills，someofwhichwehadtoclimb。Severalrivers，chiefamongwhichwastheLaxselv，opposedourprogress，butatthisseasonoftheyeartheycouldbecrossedonhorsebackwithoutdanger。Nearlyallthevalleysthroughwhichwepassedto-daywerecoveredwithlava，butneverthelessofferedmanybeautifulspots。
　　Manyofthehillswepassedseemedtometobeextinctvolcanoes；
　　thewholeupperportionwascoveredwithcolossalslabsoflava，asthoughthecraterhadbeenchokedupwiththem。Lavaofthesamedescriptionandcolour，butinsmallerpieces，laystrewedaround。
　　Forthefirsttwelveorfourteenmilestheseaisvisiblefromthebrowofeverysuccessivehill。Thecountryisalsoprettygenerallyinhabited；butafterwardsadistanceofnearlythirtymilesispassed，onwhichthereisnotahumanhabitation。Thetravellerjourneysfromonevalleyintoanother，andinthemidstofthesehill-girtdesertsseesasinglesmallhut，erectedfortheconvenienceofthosewho，inthewinter，cannotaccomplishthelongdistanceinoneday，andmusttakeuptheirquartersforthenightinthevalley。Noonemust，however，rashlyhopetofindhereahumanbeingintheshapeofahost。Thelittlehouseisquiteuninhabited，andconsistsonlyofasingleapartmentwithfournakedwalls。Thevisitormustdependontheaccommodationhecarrieswithhim。
　　Theplainsthroughwhichwetravelledto-daywerecoveredthroughoutwithoneandthesamekindoflava。Itoccursinmasses，andalsoinsmallerstones，isnotveryporous，ofalightgreycolour，andmixed，inmanyinstances，withsandorearth。
　　SomemilesfromThingvallaweenteredavalley，thesoilofwhichisfine，butneverthelessonlysparinglycoveredwithgrass，andfulloflittleacclivities，mostlyclothedwithdelicatemoss。Ihavenodoubtthattheindolenceoftheinhabitantsalonepreventsthemfrommateriallyimprovingmanyapieceofground。TheworstsoilisthatintheneighbourhoodofReikjavik；yetthereweseemanyagarden，andmanyapieceofmeadow-land，wrung，asitwere，fromthebarrenearthbylabourandpains。Whyshouldnotthesamethingbedonehere——themoresoasnaturehasalreadyaccomplishedthepreliminarywork?
　　Thingvalla，ourresting-placeforto-night，issituateonalakeofthesamename，andonlybecomesvisiblewhenthetravelleriscloseuponit。Thelakeisratherconsiderable，beingalmostthreemilesinlength，andatsomepartscertainlymorethantwomilesinbreadth；itcontainstwosmallislands，——SandeyandNesey。
　　Mywholeattentionwasstillrivetedbythelakeanditsnakedandgloomycircleofmountains，whensuddenly，asifbymagic，Ifoundmyselfstandingonthebrinkofachasm，intowhichIcouldscarcelylookwithoutashudder；involuntarilyIthoughtofWeber'sFreyschutzandthe"Wolf'sHollow。"{36}
　　ThesceneisthemorestartlingfromthecircumstancethatthetravellerapproachingThingvallainacertaindirectionseesonlytheplainsbeyondthischasm，andhasnoideaofitsexistence。Itwasafissuresomefiveorsixfathomsbroad，butseveralhundredfeetindepth；andwewereforcedtodescendbyasmall，steep，dangerouspath，acrosslargefragmentsoflava。Colossalblocksofstone，threateningtheunhappywandererwithdeathanddestruction，hangloosely，intheformofpyramidsandofbrokencolumns，fromtheloftywallsoflava，whichencirclethewholelongravineintheformofagallery。Speechless，andinanxioussuspense，wedescendapartofthischasm，hardlydaringtolookup，muchlesstogiveutterancetoasinglesound，lestthevibrationshouldbringdownoneoftheseavalanchesofstone，totheterrificforceofwhichtherockyfragmentsscatteredaroundbearampletestimony。Thedistinctnesswithwhichechorepeatsthesoftestsoundandthelightestfootfallistrulywonderful。
　　Theappearancepresentedbythehorses，whichareallowedtocomedowntheravineaftertheirmastershavedescended，ismostpeculiar。Onecouldfancytheywereclingingtothewallsofrock。
　　ThisravineisknownbythenameofAlmanagiau。Itsentirelengthisaboutamile，butasmallportiononlycanbetraversed；therestisblockedupbymassesoflavaheapedoneupontheother。Ontherighthand，therockywallopens，andformsanoutlet，overformidablemassesoflava，intothebeautifulvalleyofThingvalla。
　　IcouldhavefanciedIwanderedthroughthedepthsofacrater，whichhadpiledarounditselfthesestupendousbarriersduringamightyeruptionintimeslonggoneby。
　　ThevalleyofThingvallaisconsideredoneofthemostbeautifulinIceland。Itcontainsmanymeadows，forming，asitwere，aplaceofrefugefortheinhabitants，andenablingthemtokeepmanyheadofcattle。TheIcelandersconsiderthislittlegreenvalleythefinestspotintheworld。Notfarfromtheopeningoftheravine，onthefartherbankoftheriverOxer，liesthelittlevillageofThingvalla，consistingofthreeorfourcottagesandasmallchapel。
　　Afewscatteredfarmsandcottagesaresituatedintheneighbourhood。
　　ThingvallawasonceoneofthemostimportantplacesinIceland；thestrangerisstillshewnthemeadow，notfarfromthevillage，onwhichtheAllthinggeneralassemblywasheldannuallyintheopenair。Herethepeopleandtheirleadersmet，pitchingtheirtentsafterthemannerofnomads。Hereitwasalsothatmanyanopinionandmanyadecreewereenforcedbytheweightofsteel。
　　Thechiefsappeared，ostensiblyforpeace，attheheadoftheirtribe；yetmanyofthemreturnednotagain，butbeneaththesword-
　　strokeoftheirenemiesobtainedthatpeacewhichnomanseeketh，butwhichallmenfind。
　　Ononesidethevalleyisskirtedbythelake，ontheotheritisboundedbyloftymountains，someofthemstillpartlycoveredwithsnow。Notfarfromtheentranceoftheravine，theriverOxerrushesoverawallofrockofconsiderableheight，formingabeautifulwaterfall。
　　ItwasstillfinecleardaylightwhenIreachedThingvalla，andtheskyrosepureandcloudlessoverthefardistance。Itseemedthereforethemoresingulartometoseeafewcloudsskimmingoverthesurfaceofthemountains，nowshroudingapartoftheminvapour，nowwreathingthemselvesroundtheirsummits，nowvanishingentirely，toreappearagainatadifferentpoint。
　　ThisisaphenomenonfrequentlyobservedinIcelandduringthefinestdays，andoneIhadoftennoticedintheneighbourhoodofReikjavik。Underaclearandcloudlesssky，alightmistwouldappearonthebrowofamountain，——inamomentitwouldincreasetoalargecloud，andafterremainingstationaryforatime，itfrequentlyvanishedsuddenly，orsoaredslowlyaway。Howeveroftenitmayberepeated，thisappearancecannotfailtointeresttheobserver。
　　HerrBeck，theclergymanatThingvalla，offeredmetheshelterofhishutforthenight；asthebuilding，however，didnotlookmuchmorepromisingthanthepeasants'cottagesbywhichitwassurrounded，Ipreferredquarteringmyselfinthechurch，permissiontodosobeingbuttooeasilyobtainedonalloccasions。ThischapelisnotmuchlargerthanthatatKrisuvik，andstandsatsomedistancefromthefewsurroundingcottages。ThiswasperhapsthereasonwhyIwasnotincommodedbyvisitors。Ihadalreadyconqueredanysuperstitiousfearsderivedfromtheproximityofmysilentneighboursinthechurchyard，andpassedthenightquietlyononeofthewoodenchestsofwhichIfoundseveralscatteredabout。
　　Habitiscertainlyeverything；afterafewnightsofgloomysolitudeonethinksnomoreaboutthematter。
　　June17th。
　　Ourjourneyofto-daywasmoreformidablethanthatofyesterday。I
　　wasassuredthatReikholtalsocalledReikiadalwasalmostfiftymilesdistant。Distancescannotalwaysbeaccuratelymeasuredbythemap；impassablebarriers，onlytobeavoidedbycircuitousroutes，oftenopposethetraveller'sprogress。Thiswasthecasewithusto-day。Tojudgefromthemap，thedistancefromThingvallatoReikholtseemedlessbyagreatdealthanthatfromReikjaviktoThingvalla，andyetwewerefullfourteenhoursaccomplishingit——
　　twohourslongerthanonouryesterday'sjourney。
　　SolongasourwaylaythroughthevalleyofThingvallatherewasnolackofvariety。AtonetimetherewasanarmoftheriverOxertocross，atanotherwetraversedacheerfulmeadow；sometimesweevenpassedthroughlittleshrubberies，——thatistosay，accordingtotheIcelandicacceptationoftheterm。Inmycountrytheselovelyshrubberieswouldhavebeenclearedawayasuselessunderwood。Thetreestrailalongtheground，seldomattainingaheightofmorethantwofeet。Whenoneofthesepunystemsreachesfourfeetinheight，itisconsideredagigantictree。Thegreaterportionoftheseminiatureforestsgrowonthelavawithwhichthevalleyiscovered。
　　Theformationofthelavahereassumesanewcharacter。Uptothispointithasmostlyappearedeitherinlargemassesorinstreamslyinginstrataoneabovetheother；butherethelavacoveredthegreaterportionofthegroundintheformofimmenseflatslabsorblocksofrock，oftensplitinaverticaldirection。Isawlongfissuresofeightortenfeetinbreadth，andfromtentofifteenfeetindepth。Inthesecleftstheflowersblossomearlier，andtheferngrowstallerandmoreluxuriantly，thanintheboisterousupperworld。
　　AfterthevalleyofThingvallahasbeenpassedthejourneybecomesverymonotonous。Thedistrictbeyondiswhollyuninhabited，andwetravelledmanymileswithoutseeingasinglecottage。Fromonedesertvalleywepassedintoanother；allwerealikecoveredwithlight-greyoryellowishlava，andatintervalsalsowithfinesand，inwhichthehorsessunkdeeplyateverystep。Themountainssurroundingthesevalleyswerenoneofthehighest，anditwasseldomthatajokulorglaciershoneforthfromamongthem。Themountainshadacertainpolishedappearance，theirsidesbeingperfectlysmoothandshining。Insomeinstances，however，massesoflavaformedbeautifulgroups，bearingagreatresemblancetoruinsofancientbuildings，andstandingoutinpeculiarlyfinerelieffromthesmoothwalls。
　　Thesemountainsareofdifferentcolours；theyareblackorbrown，greyoryellow，&c。；andthedifferentshadesofthesecoloursaredisplayedwithmarvellouseffectinthebrilliantsunshine。
　　Ninehoursofuninterruptedridingbroughtusintoalargetractofmoorland，veryscantilycoveredwithmoss。Yetthiswasthefirstandonlygrazing-placetobemetwithinallthelongdistancefromThingvalla。Wethereforemadeahaltoftwohours，toletourpoorhorsespickascantymeal。Largeswarmsofminutegnats，whichseemedtoflyintooureyes，nose，andmouth，annoyedusdreadfullyduringourstayinthisplace。
　　Onthismoortherewasalsoasmalllake；andhereIsawforthefirsttimeasmallflockofswans。Unfortunatelythesecreaturesaresoverytimid，thatthemostcautiousapproachofahumanbeingcausesthemtorisewiththespeedoflightningintotheair。Iwasthereforeobligedperforcetobecontentwithadistantviewoftheseproudbirds。Theyalwayskeepinpairs，andthelargestflockIsawdidnotconsistofmorethanfoursuchpairs。
　　SincemyfirstarrivalinIcelandIhadconsideredtheinhabitantsanindolentraceofpeople；to-dayIwasstrengthenedinmyopinionbythefollowingslightcircumstance。Themoorlandonwhichwehaltedtorestwasseparatedfromtheadjoiningfieldsoflavabyanarrowditchfilledwithwater。Acrossthisditchafewstonesandslabshadbeenlaid，toformakindofbridge。Nowthisbridgewassofullofholesthatthehorsescouldnottellwheretoplanttheirfeet，andrefusedobstinatelytocrossit，sothatintheendwewereobligedtodismountandleadthemacross。Wehadscarcelypassedthisplace，andsatdowntorest，whenacaravanoffifteenhorses，ladenwithplanks，driedfish，&c。arrivedatthebridge。
　　Ofcoursethepoorcreaturesobservedthedangerousground，andcouldonlybedrivenbyhardblowstoadvance。Hardlytwentypacesofftherewerestonesinabundance；butratherthandevoteafewminutestofillinguptheholes，theselazypeoplebeattheirhorsescruelly，andexposedthemtotheriskofbreakingtheirlegs。I
　　pitiedthepooranimals，whichwouldbecompelledtorecrossthebridge，soheartily，that，aftertheyaregone，Idevotedapartofmyresting-timetocollectingstonesandfillinguptheholes，——abusinesswhichscarcelyoccupiedmeaquarterofanhour。
　　Itisinterestingtonoticehowthehorsesknowbyinstinctthedangerousspotsinthestonywastes，andinthemoorsandswamps。
　　Onapproachingtheseplacestheybendtheirheadstowardstheearth，andlooksharplyroundonallsides。Iftheycannotdiscoverafirmresting-placeforthefeet，theystopatonce，andcannotbeurgedforwardwithoutmanyblows。
　　Afterahaltoftwohourswecontinuedourjourney，whichagainledusacrossfieldsoflava。Atpastnineo'clockintheeveningwereachedanelevatedplain，aftertraversingwhichforhalfanhourwesawstretchedatourfeetthevalleyofReikholtorReikiadal；itisfourteentoseventeenmileslong，ofagoodbreadth，andgirtroundbyarowofmountains，amongwhichseveraljokulssparkleintheiricygarments。
　　AsunsetseeninthesublimewildnessofIcelandicsceneryhasapeculiarlybeautifuleffect。Overthesevastplains，divestedoftreesorshrubs，coveredwithdarklava，andshutinbymountainsalmostofasablehue，thepartingsunshedsanalmostmagicalradiance。Thepeaksofthemountainsshineinthebrightpartingrays，thejokulsareshroudedinthemostdelicateroseatehue，whilethelowerpartsofthemountainslieindeepshadow，andfrowndarklyonthevalleys，whichresembleasheetofdarkbluewater，withanatmosphereofabluish-redcolourfloatingaboveit。Themostimpressivefeatureofallistheprofoundsilenceandsolitude；
　　notasoundcanbeheard，notalivingcreatureistobeseen；everythingappearsdead。Throughoutthebroadvalleysnotatownnoravillage，no，notevenasolitaryhouseoratreeorshrub，variestheprospect。Theeyewandersoverthevastdesert，andfindsnotonefamiliarobjectonwhichitcanrest。
　　To-night，asatpasteleveno'clockwereachedtheelevatedplain，I
　　sawasunsetwhichIshallneverforget。Thesundisappearedbehindthemountains，andinitssteadagorgeousruddygleamlighteduphillandvalleyandglacier。ItwaslongereIcouldturnawaymyeyesfromtheglitteringheights，andyetthevalleyalsoofferedmuchthatwasstrikingandbeautiful。
　　Throughoutalmostitsentirelengththisvalleyformedameadow，fromtheextremitiesofwhichcolumnsofsmokeandboilingspringsburstforth。Themistshadalmostevaporated，andtheatmospherewasbrightandclear，moretransparenteventhanIhadseenitinanyothercountry。Inowforthefirsttimenoticed，thatinthevalleyitselftheradiancewasalmostasclearasthelightofday，sothatthemostminuteobjectscouldbeplainlydistinguished。
　　Thiswas，however，extremelynecessary，forsteepanddangerouspathsleadovermassesoflavaintothevalley。Ononesideranalittleriver，formingmanypicturesquewaterfalls，someofthemabovethirtyfeetinheight。
　　Istrainedmyeyesinvaintodiscoveranywhere，inthisgreatvalley，alittlechurch，which，ifitonlyofferedmeahardbenchforacouch，wouldatanyrateaffordmeashelterfromthesharpnight-wind；foritisreallynojoketorideforfifteenhours，withnothingtoeatbutbreadandcheese，andthennoteventohavethepleasantprospectofahotelalavilladeLondresordeParis。
　　Alas，mywisheswerefarmoremodest。Iexpectednoporteratthegatetogivethesignalofmyarrival，nowaiter，andnochambermaid；IonlydesiredalittlespotintheneighbourhoodofthedeardepartedIcelanders。Iwassuddenlyrecalledfromthesehappydelusionsbythevoiceoftheguide，whocriedout:"Hereweareatourdestinationforto-night。"Ilookedjoyfullyround；
　　alas!Icouldonlyseeafewofthosecottageswhichareneverobserveduntilyoualmosthityournoseagainstoneofthem，asthegrass-coveredwallscanhardlybedistinguishedfromthesurroundingmeadow。
　　Itwasalreadymidnight。Westopped，andturnedourhorsesloose，toseeksupperandrestinthenearestmeadow。Ourlotwasalessfortunateone。Theinhabitantswerealreadyburiedindeepslumbers，fromwhicheventhebarkingsetupbythedogsatourapproachfailedtoarousethem。Acupofcoffeewouldcertainlyhavebeenveryacceptabletome；yetIwasloathtorouseanyonemerelyforthis。Apieceofbreadsatisfiedmyhunger，andadraughtofwaterfromthenearestspringtastedmostdeliciouslywithit。Afterconcludingmyfrugalmeal，Isoughtoutacornerbesideacottage，whereIwaspartiallyshelteredfromthetoo-
　　familiarwind；andwrappingmycloakaroundme，laydownontheground，havingwishedmyself，withallmyheart，agoodnight'srestandpleasantdreams，inthebroaddaylight，{37}underthecanopyofheaven。Justdroppingofftosleep，Iwassurprisedbyamildrain，which，ofcourse，atonceputtoflighteveryideaofrepose。Thus，afterall，Iwasobligedtowakesomeoneup，toobtaintheshelterofaroof。
　　Thebestroom，i。e。thestore-room，wasthrownopenformyaccommodation，andasmallwoodenbedsteadplacedatmydisposal。
　　Chambersofthiskindareluckilyfoundwherevertwoorthreecottagesliecontiguoustoeachother；theyarecertainlyfarfrominviting，asdriedfish，train-oil，tallow，andmanyotherarticlesofthesamedescriptioncombinetoproduceamostunsavouryatmosphere。Yettheyareinfinitelypreferabletothedwellingsofthepeasants，which，bytheby，arethemostfilthydensthatcanbeimagined。Besidesbeingredolentofeverydescriptionofbadodour，thesecottagesareinfestedwithvermintoadegreewhichcancertainlynotbesurpassed，exceptinthedwellingsoftheGreenlandersandLaplanders。
　　June18th。
　　Yesterdaywehadbeenforcedtoputuponourpoorhorsesawearisomedistanceofmorethanfiftymiles，asthelastfortymilesledusthroughdesertanduninhabitedplaces，boastingnotevenasinglecottage。To-day，however，oursteedshadalightdutytoperform，forweonlyproceededsevenmilestothelittlevillageofReikiadal，whereIhaltedto-day，inordertovisitthecelebratedsprings。
　　TheinconsiderablevillagecalledReikiadal，consistingonlyofachurchandafewcottages，issituatedamidstpleasantmeadows。
　　Altogetherthisvalleyisrichinbeautifulmeadow-lands；
　　consequentlyoneseesmanyscatteredhomesteadsandcottages，withfineherdsofsheep，andatolerablenumberofhorses；cowsarelessplentiful。
　　ThechurchatReikiadalisamongtheneatestandmostroomyofthosewhichcameundermyobservation。Thedwellingofthepriesttoo，thoughonlyaturf-coveredcottage，islargeenoughforthecomfortoftheoccupants。Thisparishextendsoveraconsiderablearea，andisnotthinlyinhabited。
　　Myfirstcareonmyarrivalwastobegtheclergyman，HerrJonasJonason，toprocureforme，asexpeditiouslyaspossible，freshhorsesandaguide，inorderthatImightvisitthesprings。Hepromisedtoprovidemewithbothwithinhalfanhour；andyetitwasnotuntilthreehourshadbeenwasted，that，withinfinitepains，I
　　sawmywishfulfilled。ThroughoutmystayinIceland，nothingannoyedmemorethantheslownessandunconcerndisplayedbytheinhabitantsinalltheirundertakings。Everywishandeveryrequestoccupiesalongtimeinitsfulfilment。HadInotbeencontinuallyatthegoodpastor'sside，IbelieveIshouldscarcelyhaveattainedmyobject。Atlengtheverythingwasready，andthepastorhimselfwaskindenoughtobemyguide。
　　Werodeaboutfourmilesthroughthisbeautifulvale，andinthisshortdistancewerecompelledatleastsixtimestocrosstheriverSidumule，whichrollsitsmosttortuouscoursethroughtheentirevalley。Atlengththefirstspringwasreached；itemergesfromarockaboutsixfeetinheight，standinginthemidstofamoor。Theuppercavityofthenaturalreservoir，inwhichthewatercontinuallyboilsandseethes，isbetweentwoandthreefeetindiameter。Thisspringneverstops；thejetofwaterrisestwo，andsometimesevenfourfeethigh，andisabouteighteeninchesthick。
　　Itispossibletoincreasethevolumeofthejetforafewseconds，bythrowinglargestonesorlumpsofearthintotheopening，andthusstirringupthespring。Thestonesarecastforciblyforth，andthelumpsofearth，dissolvedbytheactionofthewater，imparttothelatteradingycolour。
　　WhoeverhasseenthejetofwateratCarlsbad，inBohemia，canwellimaginetheappearanceofthisspring，whichcloselyresemblesthatofCarlsbad。{38}
　　Intheimmediateneighbourhoodofthespringisanabyss，inwhichwateriscontinuallyseething，butneverrisesintotheair。Atalittledistance，onahighrock，risingoutoftheriverSidumule，notfarfromtheshore，areothersprings。Theyarethreeinnumber，eachatashortdistancefromthenext，andoccupynearlytheentireuppersurfaceoftherock。Lowerdownwefindareservoirofboilingwater；andatthefootoftherock，andonthenearestshore，aremanymorehotsprings；butmostoftheseareinconsiderable。Manyofthesehotspringsemergealmostfromthecoldriveritself。
　　Thechiefgroup，however，liesstillfartheroff，onarockwhichmaybeabouttwentyfeetinheight，andfiftyinlength。ItiscalledTungaHuer，andrisesfromthemidstofamoor。Onthisrocktherearenolessthansixteensprings，someemergingfromitsbase，othersratherabovethemiddle，butnonefromthetopoftherock。
　　TheconstructionofthebasinsandtheheightanddiameterofthejetswerepreciselysimilartothoseIhavealreadydescribed。Allthesesixteenspringsaresoneareachotherthattheydonotevenoccupytwosidesoftherock。Itisimpossibletoformanideaofthemagnificenceofthissingularspectacle，whichbecomesreallyfairy-like，ifthebeholderhavethecouragetoclimbtherockitself，aproceedingofsomedanger，thoughoflittledifficulty。
　　Theupperstratumoftherockissoftandwarm，presentingalmosttheappearanceofmudthickenedwithsandandsmallstones。Everyfootstepleavesatracebehindit，andthevisitorhascontinuallybeforehiseyesthefearofbreakingthrough，andfallingintoahotspringhiddenfromviewbyathincovering。Thegoodpastorwalkedinadvanceofme，withastick，andprobedthedangeroussurfaceasmuchaspossible。Iwasloathtostaybehind，andsuddenlywefoundourselvesatthesummitoftherock。Herewecouldtakein，atoneview，thesixteenspringsgushingfrombothitssides。Iftheviewfrombelowhadbeenmostinterestingandsingular，howshallI
　　describeitsappearanceasseenfromabove?Sixteenjetsofwaterseenatoneglance，sixteenreservoirs，inalltheirdiversityofformandconstruction，openingatoncebeneaththefeetofthebeholder，seemedalmosttoowonderfulasight。Forgettingallpusillanimousfeelings，IstoodandhonouredtheCreatorinthesehismarvellousworks。ForalongtimeIstood，andcouldnottireofgazingintotheabyssesfromwhosedarknessthemassesofwhiteandfoamingwatersprunghissingintotheair，tofallagain，andhasteninquietuniontowardstheneighbouringriver。Thegoodpastorfounditnecessarytoremindmeseveraltimesthatourpositionherewasneitherofthesafestnorofthemostcomfortable，andthatitwasthereforehightimetoabandonit。Ihadceasedtothinkoftheinsecurityofthegroundwetrod，andscarcelynoticedthemightycloudsofhotvapourwhichfrequentlysurroundedandthreatenedtosuffocateus，obligingustostepsuddenlybackwithwettedfaces。Itwasfortunatethatthesewaterscontainbutaverysmallquantityofbrimstone，otherwisewecouldscarcelyhavelongmaintainedourelevatedposition。
　　Therockfromwhichthesespringsriseisformedofareddishmass，andthebedoftheriverintowhichthewaterflowsisalsocompletelycoveredwithlittlestonesofthesamecolour。
　　Onourwaybackwenoticed，nearacottage，anotherremarkablephenomenon。Itwasabasin，inwhosedepthsthewaterboilsandbubblesviolently；andnearthisbasinaretwounsightlyholes，fromwhichcolumnsofsmokeperiodicallyrisewithagreatnoise。Whilstthisisgoingon，thebasinfillsitselfmoreandmorewithwater，butneversomuchastooverflow，ortoforceajetofwaterintotheair；thenthesteamandthenoiseceaseinbothcavities，andthewaterinthereservoirsinksseveralfeet。
　　Thisstrangephenomenongenerallylastsaboutaminute，andisrepeatedsoregularly，thatabetcouldalmostbemade，thattherisingandfallingofthewater，andtheincreasedandlessenednoiseofthesteam，shallbeseenandheardsixtyorsixty-fivetimeswithinanhour。
　　Incommunicationwiththisbasinisanother，situateatadistanceofaboutahundredpacesinasmallhollow，andfilledliketheformerwithboilingwater。Asthewaterintheupperbasingraduallysinks，andceasestoseethe，itbeginstoriseinthelowerone，andisatlengthforcedtwoorthreefeetintotheair；
　　thenitfallsagain，andthusthephenomenoniscontinuallyrepeatedintheupperandthelowerbasinalternately。
　　Attheupperspringthereisalsoavapour-bath。Thisisformedbyasmallchambersituatehardbythebasin，builtofstonesandroofedwithturf。Itisfurtherprovidedwithasmallandnarrowentrance，whichcannotbepassedinanuprightposition。Theflooriscomposedofstoneslabs，probablycoveringahotspring，fortheyareverywarm。Thepersonwishingtousethisbathbetakeshimselftothisroom，andcarefullycloseseverycranny；asuffocatingheat，whichinducesviolentperspirationoverthewholeframe，isthusgenerated。Thepeople，however，seldomavailthemselvesofthisbath。
　　OnmyreturnIhadstilltovisitabasinwithajetofwater，inafinemeadownearthechurch；alowwallofstonehasbeenerectedroundthisspringtopreventthecattlefromscaldingthemselvesiftheyshouldapproachtoonearintheardourofgrazing。Someeightypacesoffistobeseenthewool-batherectedbySnorriSturluson。
　　Itconsistsofastonebasinthreeorfourfeetindepth，andeighteenortwentyindiameter。Theapproachisbyafewstepsleadingtoalowstonebench，whichrunsroundthebasin。Thewaterisobtainedfromtheneighbouringspring，butisofsohighatemperaturethatitisimpossibletobathewithoutpreviouslycoolingit。Thebathstandsintheopenair，andnotracesareleftofthebuildingwhichoncecoveredit。Itisnowusedforclothesandsheep'swool。
　　Ihadnowseenalltheinterestingspringsonthissideofthevalley。Somecolumnsofvapour，whichmaybeobservedfromtheoppositeendofthevalley，proceedfromthermalsprings，thatoffernoremarkablefeaturesavetheirheat。
　　Onourreturnthepriesttookmetothechurchyard，whichlayatsomedistancefromhisdwelling，andshowedmetheprincipalgraves。
　　ThoughIthoughtthesightveryimpressive，itwasnotcalculatedtoinvigorateme，whenIconsideredthatImustpasstheapproachingnightaloneinthechurch，amidsttheseresting-placesofthedeparted。
　　Themoundaboveeachgraveisveryhigh，andthegreaterpartofthemaresurmountedbyakindofwoodencoffin，whichatfirstsightconveystheimpressionthatthedeadpersonisaboveground。I
　　couldnotshakeoffafeelingofdiscomfort；andsuchisthepowerofprejudice，that——Iacknowledgemyweakness——Iwaseveninducedtobegthatthepriestwouldremoveoneofthecovers。ThoughIknewfullwellthatthedeadmanwasslumberingdeepintheearth，andnotinthiscoffin，Ifeltashudderpassovermeasthelidwasremoved，andIsaw——asthepriesthadassuredmeIshoulddo——merelyatombstonewiththeusualinscription，whichthiscoffin-likecoveringisintendedtoprotectagainsttherudestormsofthewinter。
　　ClosebesidetheentrancetothechurchisthemoundbeneathwhichrestthebonesofSnorriSturluson，thecelebratedpoet；{39}overthisgravestandsasmallrunicstoneofthelengthofthemounditself。Thisstoneissaidtohaveoncebeencompletelycoveredwithruniccharacters；butalltraceofthesehasbeensweptawaybythestormsoffivehundredwinters，againstwhichthetombhadnoprotectingcoffin。Thestone，too，issplitthroughoutitsentirelengthintotwopieces。Themoundabovethegraveisoftenrenewed，sothatthebeholdercouldoftenfancyhesawanew-madegrave。I
　　pickedallthebuttercupsIcouldfindgrowingonthegrave，andpreservedthemcarefullyinabook。PerhapsImaybeabletogivepleasuretoseveralofmycountrywomenbyofferingthemafloweretfromthegraveofthegreatestofIcelandicpoets。
　　June19th。
　　Inordertopursuemyjourneywithoutinterruption，Ihiredfreshhorses，andallowedmyown，whichwereratherfatigued，toaccompanyusunloaded。MyobjectinthisfurtherexcursionwastovisittheveryremarkablecavernofSurthellir，distantagoodthirty-threemilesfromthisplace。Theclergymanwasagainkindenoughtomakethenecessaryarrangementsforme，andeventoactasmyMentoronthejourney。
　　Thoughwewereonlythreestrong，wedepartedwitharetinueofsevenhorses，andfornearlytenmilesrodebackthesamewaybywhichIhadcomefromReikholtontheprecedingmorning；thenweturnedofftotheleft，andcrossinghillsandacclivities，reachedothervalleys，whichwerepartlytraversedbybeautifulstreamsoflava，andpartlyinterspersedwithforests——FORESTS，asIhavealreadysaid，accordingtoIcelandicnotions。TheseparatestemswerecertainlyslightlyhigherthanthoseinthevalleyofThingvalla。
　　AtKalmannstungaweleftthesparehorses，andtookwithusamantoserveasguideinthecavern，fromwhichwewerenowstillsomesevenmilesdistant。ThegreatvalleyinwhichthiscavernliesisreckonedamongthemostremarkableinIceland。Itisamostperfectpictureofvolcanicdevastation。Themostbeautifulmassesoflava，inthemostvariedandpicturesqueforms，occupythewholeimmeasurablevalley。Lavaistobeseenthereinaroughglassystate，formingexquisiteflamesandarabesques；andinimmenseslabs，lyingsometimesscattered，sometimespiledinstrataoneabovetheother，asthoughtheyhadbeencasttherebyaflood。
　　Amongthese，again，liemightyisolatedstreams，whichmusthavebeenfrozeninthemidstoftheircourse。Fromthedifferentcoloursofthelava，andtheirtransitionsfromlightgreytoblack，wecanjudgeoftheeruptionswhichhavetakenplaceatdifferentperiods。Themountainssurroundingthisvalleyaremostlyofasombrehue；someareevenblack，formingastrikingcontrasttotheneighbouringjokuls，which，intheirlargeexpanse，presenttheappearancealmostofaseaofice。Ifoundoneofthesejokulsofaremarkablesize；itsshiningexpanseextendedfardownintothevalley，anditsuppersurfacewasalmostimmeasurable。
　　Theothermountainswereallsmooth，asthoughpolishedbyart；intheforegroundIonlynoticedonewhichwascoveredwithwonderfulformsofdriedlava。Adeathlikesilenceweighedonthewholecountryround，onhillandonvalleyalike。Everythingseemeddead，allroundwasbarrenanddesert，sothattheeffectwastrulyIcelandic。ThegreaterportionofIcelandmightbewithjusticedesignatedthe"NorthernDesert。"
　　ThecavernofSurthellirliesonaslightlyelevatedextendedplain，whereitwouldcertainlynotbesoughtfor，asweareaccustomedtoseenaturalphenomenaofthisdescriptiononlyinthebowelsofrocks。Itis，therefore，withnolittlesurprisethatthetravellerseessuddenlyopeningbeforehimalargeroundbasinaboutfifteenfathomsindiameter，andfourindepth。ItwaswithafeelingofawethatIlookeddownwardsonthecountlessblocksofrockpiledoneupontheother，extendingononesidetotheedgeofthehollow，acrosswhichtheroadledtothedarkravinesfartheron。
　　Wewerecomperedtoscrambleforwardonourhandsandknees，untilwereachedalongbroadpassage，whichledusatfirstimperceptiblydownwards，andthenranunderneaththeplain，whichformedarockycavernaboveourheads。Iestimatedthedifferentheightsofthisroofatnotlessthanfromeighteentosixtyfeet；butitseldomreachedagreaterelevationthanthelatter。Bothroofandwallsareinsomeplacesverypointedandrough:acircumstancetobeascribedtothestalactiteswhichadheretothem，without，however，formingfiguresorlongsharppoints。
　　Fromthisprincipalpathseveralsmalleronesleadfarintotheinteriorofthisstonyregion；buttheydonotcommunicatewitheachother，andoneiscompelledtoreturnfromeachside-pathintothemainroad。Someoftheseby-pathsareshort，narrow，andlow；
　　others，onthecontrary，arelong，broad，andlofty。
　　Inoneofthemostretiredoftheseby-pathsIwasshewnagreatnumberofbones，which，Iwastold，werethoseofslaughteredsheepandotheranimals。Icouldgather，fromtheaccountgivenbythepriestofthelegendconcerningthem，that，indaysofyore，thiscavewastheresortofamightybandofrobbers。Thismusthavebeenalong，longtimeago，asthisisrelatedasalegendorafable。
　　Formypart，IcouldnottellwhatrobbershadtodoinIceland。
　　Pirateshadoftencometotheisland；butforthesegentrythiscavernwastoofarfromthesea。Icannotevenimaginebeastsofpreytohavebeenthere；forthewholecountryroundaboutisdesertanduninhabited，sothattheycouldhavefoundnothingtopreyupon。
　　Infact，Iturnedoverinmymindeveryprobability，andcanonlysaythatitappearedtomeamostremarkablecircumstancetofindinthisdesertplace，sofarfromanylivingthing，anumberofbones，which，moreover，lookedasfreshasifthepooranimalstowhomtheyoncebelongedhadbeeneatenbutashorttimeago。UnfortunatelyI