Nothingamusedmemore，whenIhadlodgingsofthisdescription，thanthecuriosityofthepeople，whowouldrushineverymorning，assoonasIopenedthedoor。Thefirstthingtheysaidtoeachotherwasalways，"Krarhefurhunsovid"Wherecanshehaveslept?。ThegoodpeoplecouldnotconceivehowitwaspossibletospendanightALONEinachurchsurroundedbyachurchyard；theyperhapsconsideredmeanevilspiritorawitch，andwouldtoogladlyhaveascertainedhowsuchacreatureslept。WhenIsawtheirdisappointedfaces，Ihadtoturnawaynottolaughatthem。
June29th。
EarlythenextmorningIcontinuedmyjourney。NotfarfromSkalholtwecametotheriverThiorsa，whichisdeepandrapid。Wecrossedinaboat；butthehorseshadtoswimafterus。Itisoftenverytroublesometomakethehorsesenterthesestreams；theyseeatoncethattheywillhavetoswim。Theguideandboatmencannotleavetheshoretillthehorseshavebeenforcedintothestream；
andeventhentheyhavetothrowstones，tothreatenthemwiththewhip，andtofrightenthembyshoutsandcries，topreventthemfromreturning。
Whenwehadmadenearlytwelvemilesonmarshyroads，wecametothebeautifulwaterfalloftheHuitha。Thisfallisnotsoremarkableforitsheight，whichisscarcelymorethanfifteentotwentyfeet，asforitsbreadth，andforitsquantityofwater。Somebeautifulrocksaresoplacedattheledgeofthefall，thattheydivideitintothreeparts；butitunitesagainimmediatelybeneaththem。Thebedoftheriver，aswellasitsshores，isoflava。
Thecolourofthewaterisalsoaremarkablefeatureinthisriver；
itinclinessomuchtomilkywhite，that，whenthesunshinesonit，itrequiresnoverystrongimaginativepowertotakethewholeformilk。
NearlyamileabovethefallwehadtocrosstheHuitha，oneofthelargestriversinIceland。Thencetheroadliesthroughmeadows，whicharelessmarshythantheformerones，tillitcomestoabroadstreamoflava，whichannouncesthevicinityofthefearfulvolcanoofHecla。
IhadhithertonotpassedoversuchanexpanseofcountryinIcelandasthatfromtheGeysertothisplacewithoutcominguponstreamsoflava。Andthislava-streamseemedtohavefeltsomepityforthebeautifulmeadows，foritfrequentlyseparatedintotwobranches，andthusenclosedtheverdantplain。Butitcouldnotwithstandtheviolenceofthesucceedingmasses；ithadbeencarriedon，andhadspreaddeathanddestructioneverywhere。Theroadtoit，throughplainscoveredwithdarksand，andoversteephillsintervening，wasveryfatiguingandlaborious。
WeproceededtothelittlevillageofStruvellir，wherewestoppedtogiveourhorsesafewhours'rest。Herewefoundalargeassemblyofmenandanimals。{42}IthappenedtobeSunday，andawarmsunnyday，andsoaveryfullservicewasheldintheprettylittlechurch。Whenitwasover，Iwitnessedanamusingruralscene。Thepeoplepouredoutofthechurch，——Icountedninety-six，whichisanextraordinarilynumerousassemblageforIceland，——formedintolittlegroups，chattingandjoking，notforgetting，however，tomoistentheirthroatswithbrandy，ofwhichtheyhadtakencaretobringanamplesupply。Thentheybridledtheirhorsesandpreparedfordeparture；nowthekissespouredinfromallsides，andtherewasnoendofleave-taking，forthepoorpeopledonotknowwhethertheyshallevermeetagain，andwhen。
InallIcelandwelcomeandfarewellisexpressedbyaloudkiss，——apracticenotverydelightfulforanon-Icelander，whenoneconsiderstheirugly，dirtyfaces，thesnuffynosesoftheoldpeople，andthefilthylittlechildren。ButtheIcelandersdonotmindthis。Theyallkissedthepriest，andthepriestkissedthem；andthentheykissedeachother，tillthekissingseemedtohavenoend。Rankisnotconsideredinthisceremony；andIwasnotalittlesurprisedtoseehowmyguide，acommonfarm-labourer，kissedthesixdaughtersofajudge，orthewifeandchildrenofapriest，orajudgeandthepriestthemselves，andhowtheyreturnedthecomplimentwithoutreserve。Everycountryhasitspeculiarcustoms!
Thereligiousceremoniesgenerallybeginaboutnoon，andlasttwoorthreehours。Therebeingnopublicinninwhichtoassemble，andnostableinwhichthehorsescanbefastened，allflocktotheopenspaceinfrontofthechurch，whichthusbecomesaveryanimatedspot。Allhavetoremainintheopenair。
Whentheservicewasover，Ivisitedthepriest，HerrHorfuson；hewaskindenoughtoconductmetotheSalsun，ninemilesdistant，principallytoengageaguidetoHeclaforme。
Iwasdoublyrejoicedtohavethisgoodmanatmyside，aswehadtocrossadangerousstream，whichwasveryrapid，andsodeepthatthewaterrosetothehorses'breasts。Althoughweraisedourfeetashighaspossible，wewereyetthoroughlywet。Thiswadingacrossriversisoneofthemostunpleasantmodesoftravelling。Thehorseswimsmorethanitwalks，andthiscreatesamostdisagreeablesensation；onedoesnotknowwhithertodirectone'seyes；tolookintothestreamwouldexcitegiddiness，andthesightoftheshoreisnotmuchbetter，forthatseemstomoveandtorecede，becausethehorse，bythecurrent，isforcedalittlewaydowntheriver。
Tomygreatcomfortthepriestrodebymysidetoholdme，incaseI
shouldnotbeabletokeepmyseat。Ipassedfortunatelythroughthisprobation；andwhenwereachedtheothershore，HerrHorfusonpointedouttomehowfarthecurrenthadcarriedusdowntheriver。
ThevalleyinwhichSalsunandtheHeclaaresituatedisoneofthosewhicharefoundonlyinIceland。Itcontainsthegreatestcontrasts。Herearecharmingfieldscoveredwitharichgreencarpetofsoftestgrass，andthereagainhillsofblack，shininglava；eventhefertileplainsaretraversedbystreamsoflavaandspotsofsand。MountHeclanotoriouslyhastheblackestlavaandtheblackestsand；anditmaybeimaginedhowthecountrylooksinitsimmediateneighbourhood。OnehillonlytotheleftofHeclaisreddishbrown，andcoveredwithsandandstonesofasimilarcolour。
Thecentreismuchdepressed，andseemstoformalargecrater。
MountHeclaisdirectlyunitedwiththelava-mountainspiledroundit，andseemsfromtheplainonlyasahigherpoint。Itissurroundedbyseveralglaciers，whosedazzlingfieldsofsnowdescendfardown，andwhosebrilliantplainshaveprobablyneverbeentrodbyhumanfeet；severalofitssideswerealsocoveredwithsnow。TotheleftofthevalleynearSalsun，andatthefootofalava-hill，liesalovelylake，onwhoseshoresanumerousflockofsheepweregrazing。Nearitrisesanotherbeautifulhill，sosolitaryandisolated，thatitlooksasifithadbeencastoutbyitsneighboursandbanishedhither。Indeed，thewholelandscapehereissopeculiarlyIcelandic，sostrangeandremarkable，thatitwilleverremainimpressedonmymemory。
SalsunliesatthefootofMountHecla，butisnotseenbeforeonereachesit。
ArrivedatSalsun，ourfirstcarewastoseekaguide，andtobargainforeverythingrequisitefortheascensionofthemountain。
Theguidewastoprocureahorseforme，andtotakemeandmyformerguidetothesummitofHecla。Hedemandedfivethalerandtwomarksaboutfifteenshillings，amostexorbitantsum，onwhichhecouldliveforamonth。Butwhatcouldwedo?Heknewverywellthattherewasnootherguidetobehad，andsoIwasforcedtoacquiesce。Whenallwasarranged，mykindcompanionleftme，wishingmesuccessonmyarduousexpedition。
InowlookedoutforaplaceinwhichIcouldspendthenight，andafilthyholefelltomylot。Abench，rathershorterthatmybody，wasputintoit，toserveasmybed；besideithungadecayedfish，whichhadinfectedthewholeroomwithitssmell。Icouldscarcelybreathe；andastherewasnootheroutlet，Iwasobligedtoopenthedoor，andthusreceivethevisitsofthenumerousandamiableinhabitants。Whatastrengtheningandinvigoratingpreparationforthemorrow'sexpedition!
AtthefootofMountHecla，andespeciallyinthisvillage，everythingseemstobeundermined。Nowhere，notevenonMountVesuvius，hadIheardsuchhollow，droningsoundsashere，——theechoesoftheheavyfootstepsofthepeasants。ThesesoundsmadeaveryawfulimpressiononmeasIlayallnightaloneinthatdarkhole。
MyHeclaguide，asIshallcallhimtodistinguishhimfrommyotherguide，advisedmetostartattwoo'clockinthemorning，towhichI
assented，wellknowing，however，thatweshouldnothavemountedourhorsesbeforefiveo'clock。
AsIhadanticipated，soithappened。Athalf-pastfivewewerequitepreparedandreadyfordeparture。Besidesbreadandcheese，abottleofwaterformyself，andoneofbrandyformyguides，wewerealsoprovidedwithlongsticks，tippedwithironpointstosoundthedepthofthesnow，andtoleanupon。
Wewerefavouredbyafinewarmsunnymorning，andgallopedbrisklyoverthefieldsandtheadjoiningplainsofsand。Myguideconsideredthefineweatheraveryluckyomen，andtoldmethatM。
Geimard，thebefore-mentionedFrenchscholar，hadbeencompelledtowaitthreedaysforfineweather。Nineyearshadelapsed，andnoonehadascendedthemountainsincethen。AprinceofDenmark，whotravelledthroughIcelandsomeyearsbefore，hadbeenthere，buthadreturnedwithouteffectinghispurpose。
Ourroadatfirstledusthroughbeautifulfields，andthenoverplainsofblacksandenclosedonallsidesbystreams，hillocks，andmountainsofpiled-uplava。Closerandcloserthesefearfulmassesapproach，andscarcelypermitapassagethroughanarrowcleft；wehadtoclimboverblocksandhillsoflava，whereitisdifficulttofindafirmresting-placeforthefoot。Thelavarolledbesideandbehindus，andwehadtoproceedcarefullynottofallorbehitbytherollinglava。Butmostdangerouswerethechasmsfilledwithsnowoverwhichwehadtopass；thesnowhadbeensoftenedbythewarmthoftheseason，sothatwesankintoitnearlyeverystep，or，whatwasworse，slippedbackmorethanwehadadvanced。Iscarcelythinktherecanbeanothermountainwhoseascentofferssomanydifficulties。
Afteralabourofaboutthreehoursandahalfwenearedthesummitofthemountain，wherewewereobligedtoleaveourhorses。I
should，indeed，havepreferredtodosolongbefore，asIwasapprehensiveofthepooranimalsfallingastheyclimbedovertheseprecipices——onemightalmostcallthemrollingmountains——butmyguidewouldnotpermitit。Sometimeswecametospotswheretheywereuseful，andthenhemaintainedthatImustrideasfaraspossibletoreservemystrengthfortheremainingdifficulties。Andhewasright；IscarcelybelieveIshouldhavebeenabletogothroughitonfoot，forwhenIthoughtwewerenearthetop，hillsoflavaagainrosebetweenus，andweseemedfartherfromourjourney'sendthanbefore。
Myguidetoldmethathehadnevertakenanyonesofaronhorseback，andIcanbelieveit。Walkingwasbadenough——ridingwasfearful。
Ateveryfreshdeclivitynewscenesofdeserted，melancholydistrictswererevealedtous；everythingwascoldanddead，everywheretherewasblackburntlava。Itwasapainfulfeelingtoseesomuch，andbeholdnothingbutastonydesert，animmeasurablechaos。
Therewerestilltwodeclivitiesbeforeus，——thelast，buttheworst。Wehadtoclimbsteepmassesoflava，sharpandpointed，whichcoveredthewholesideofthemountain。IdonotknowhowoftenIfellandcutmyhandsonthejaggedpointsofthelava。Itwasafearfuljourney!
Thedazzlingwhitenessofthesnowcontrastedwiththebrightblacklavabesideithadanalmostblindingeffect。WhencrossingfieldsofsnowIdidnotlookatthelava；forhavingtriedtodosoonceortwice，Icouldnotseemywayafterwards，andhadnearlygrownsnow-blind。
Aftertwohours'morelabourwereachedthesummitofthemountain。
IstoodnowonMountHecla，andeagerlysoughtthecrateronthesnowlesstop，butdidnotfindit。Iwasthemoresurprised，asI
hadreaddetailedaccountsofitinseveraldescriptionsoftravel。
Itraversedthewholesummitofthemountainandclimbedtotheadjoiningjokul，butdidnotperceiveanopening，afissure，adepressedspace，noranysignofacrater。Lowerdowninthesidesofthemountain，butnotintherealcone，Isawsomecleftsandfissuresfromwhichthestreamsoflavaprobablypoured。Theheightofthemountainissaidtobe4300feet。
Duringthelasthourofourascentthesunhadgrowndim。Cloudsofmistblownfromtheneighbouringglaciersenshroudedthehill-tops，andsoonenvelopedussocloselythatwecouldscarcelyseetenpacesbeforeus。Atlasttheydissolved，fortunatelynotinrainbutinsnow，whichprofuselycoveredtheblackunevenlava。Thesnowremainedontheground，andthethermometerstoodatonedegreeofcold。
Inalittlewhiletheclearblueskyoncemorewasvisible，andthesunagainshoneoverus。Iremainedonthetoptillthecloudshadseparatedbeneathus，andaffordedmeabetterdistantviewoverthecountry。
MypenisunfortunatelytoofeebletobringvividlybeforemyreadersthepicturesuchasIbeheldithere，andtodescribetothemthedesolation，theextentandheightoftheselava-masses。I
seemedtostandinacrater，andthewholecountryappearedonlyaburnt-outfire。Herelavawaspiledupinsteepinaccessiblemountains；therestonyrivers，whoselengthandbreadthseemedimmeasurable，filledtheonce-verdantfields。Everythingwasjumbledtogether，andyetthecourseofthelasteruptioncouldbedistinctlytraced。
Istoodthere，inthecentreofhorribleprecipices，caves，streams，valleys，andmountains，andscarcelycomprehendedhowitwaspossibletopenetratesofar，andwasovercomewithterroratthethoughtwhichinvoluntarilyobtrudeditself——thepossibilityofneverfindingmywayagainoutoftheseterriblelabyrinths。
Here，fromthetopofMountHecla，Icouldseefarintotheuninhabitedcountry，thepictureofapetrifiedcreation，deadandmotionless，andyetmagnificent，——apicturewhichonceseencanneveragainfadefromthememory，andwhichaloneamplycompensatesforalltheprevioustroublesanddangers。Awholeworldofglaciers，lava-mountains，snowandice-fields，riversandlakes，intowhichnohumanfoothaseverventuredtopenetrate。Hownaturemusthavelabouredandragedtilltheseformswerecreated!Andisitovernow?Hasthedestroyingelementexhausteditself；ordoesitonlyrest，likethehundred-headedHydra，tobreakforthwithrenewedstrength，anddesolatethoseregionswhich，pushedtothevergeofthesea-shore，encirclethesterileinteriorasamodestwreath?IthankGodthathehaspermittedmetobeholdthischaosinhiscreation；butIthankhimmoreheartilythathehasplacedmetodwellinregionswherethesundoesmorethanmerelygivelight；
whereitinspiresandfertilisesanimalsandplants，andfillsthehumanheartwithjoyandthankfulnesstowardsitsCreator。{43}
TheWestmannIsles，whicharesaidtobevisiblefromthetopofHecla，Icouldnotsee；theywereprobablycoveredbyclouds。
DuringtheascentoftheHeclaIhadfrequentlytouchedlava，——
sometimesinvoluntarily，whenIfell；sometimesvoluntarily，tofindahotoratleastawarmplace。Iwasunfortunateenoughonlytofindcoldones。Thefallingsnowwasthereforemostwelcome，andI
lookedanxiouslyaroundtoseeaplacewherethesubterraneanheatwouldmeltit。IshouldthenhavehastenedthitherandfoundwhatI
sought。Butunfortunatelythesnowremainedunmeltedeverywhere。
Icouldneitherseeanycloudsofsmoke，althoughIgazedsteadilyatthemountainforhours，andcouldfrommypostsurveyitfardownthesides。
Aswedescendedwefoundthesnowmeltingatadepthof500to600
feet；lowerdown，thewholemountainsmoked，whichIthoughtwastheconsequenceofthereturningwarmthofthesun，formythermometernowstoodatninedegreesofheat。Ihavenoticedthesamecircumstanceoftenonunvolcanicmountains。Thespotsfromwhichthesmokerosewerealsocold。
Thesmoothjet-black，bright，anddenselavaisonlyfoundonthemountainitselfandinitsimmediatevicinity。Butalllavaisnotthesame:thereisjagged，glassy，andporouslava；theformerisblack，andsoisthesandwhichcoversonesideofHecla。Thefartherthelavaandsandarefromthemountain，themoretheylosethisblackness，andtheircolourplaysintoiron-colourandevenintolight-grey；butthelighter-colouredlavagenerallyretainsthebrightnessandsmoothnessoftheblacklava。
Afteratroublesomedescent，havingspenttwelvehoursonthisexcursion，wearrivedsafelyatSalsun；andIwasonthepointofreturningtomylodging，somewhatannoyedattheprospectofspendinganothernightinsuchahole，whenmyguidesurprisedmeagreeablybythepropositiontoreturntoStruvelliratonce。Thehorses，hesaid，weresufficientlyrested，andIcouldgetagoodroomthereinthepriest'shouse。Isoonpacked，andinashorttimewewereagainonhorseback。ThesecondtimeIcametothedeepRangaa，Irodeacrossfearlessly，andneedednoprotectionatanyside。Suchisman:dangeronlyalarmshimthefirsttime；whenhehassafelysurmounteditonce，hescarcelythinksofitthesecondtime，andwondershowhecanhavefeltanyfear。
Isawfivelittletreesstandinginafieldnearthestream。Thestemsofthese，which，consideringthescarcityoftreesinIceland，maybecalledremarkablephenomena，werecrookedandknotty，butyetsixorsevenfeethigh，andaboutfourorfiveinchesindiameter。
Asmyguidehadforetold，Ifoundaverycomfortableroomandagoodbedinthepriest'shouse。HerrHorfusonisoneofthebestmenI
haveevermetwith。Heeagerlysoughtopportunitiesforgivingmepleasure，andtohimIoweseveralfinemineralsandanIcelandicbookoftheyear1601。MayGodrewardhiskindnessandbenevolence!
July1st。
WeretracedourstepsasfarastheriverHuitha，overwhichwerowed，andthenturnedinanotherdirection。Ourjourneyledusthroughbeautifulvalleys，manyofthemproducingabundanceofgrass；butunfortunatelysomuchmossgrewamongit，thattheselargeplainswerenotavailableforpastures，andonlyaffordedcomforttotravellersbytheiraspectofcheerfulness。Theywerequitedry。
ThevalleyinwhichHjalmholm，ourresting-placeforthisnight，wassituated，istraversedbyastreamoflava，whichhad，however，beenmodestenoughnottofillupthewholevalley，buttoleaveaspacefortheprettystreamElvas，andforsomefieldsandhillocks，onwhichmanycottagesstood。ItwasoneofthemostpopulousvalleysIhadseeninIceland。
Hjalmholmissituatedonahill。InitlivestheSysselmannoftheRangaardistrict，inalargeandbeautifulhousesuchasIsawnowhereinIcelandexceptinReikjavik。HehadgonetothecapitaloftheislandasmemberoftheAllthing；buthisdaughtersreceivedmeveryhospitablyandkindly。
Wetalkedandchattedmuch；ItriedtodisplaymyknowledgeoftheDanishlanguagebeforethem，andmustoftenhavemadeuseofcuriousphrases，forthegirlscouldnotcontaintheirlaughter。Butthatdidnotabashme；Ilaughedwiththem，appliedtomydictionary，whichIcarriedwithme，andchattedon。Theyseemedtogathernoveryhighideaofthebeautyofmycountrywomenfrommypersonalappearance；forwhichIhumblycravetheforgivenessofmycountrywomen，assuringthemthatnooneregretsthefactmorethanI
do。ButdameNaturealwaystreatspeopleofmyyearsveryharshly，andsetsabadexampletoyouthoftherespectduetoage。Insteadofhonouringusandgivingusthepreference，shepatronisestheyoungfolks，andeverymaidenofsixteencanturnuphernoseatusvenerablematrons。Besidesmynaturaldisqualifications，thesharpairandtheviolentstormstowhichIhadbeensubjectedhaddisfiguredmyfaceverymuch。TheyhadaffectedmemorethantheburningheatoftheEast。Iwasverybrown，mylipswerecracked，andmynose，alas，evenbegantorebelagainstitsuglycolour。Itseemedanxioustopossessanew，dazzlingwhite，tenderskin，andwascastingofftheoldoneinlittlebits。
Theonlycircumstancewhichreinstatedmeinthegoodopinionoftheyounggirlswas，thathavingbrushedmyhairunusuallyfaroutofmyface，awhitespacebecamevisible。Thegirlsallcriedoutsimultaneously，quitesurprisedanddelighted:"Hunerquit"sheiswhite。Icouldnotrefrainfromlaughing，andbaredmyarmtoprovetothemthatIdidnotbelongtotheArabrace。
Agreatsurprisewasdestinedmeinthishouse；for，asIwasransackingtheSysselmann'sbook-case，IfoundRotteck'sUniversalHistory，aGermanLexicon，andseveralpoemsandwritingsofGermanpoets。
July2d。
ThewayfromKalmannstungatoThingvallaleadsovernothingbutlava，andtheoneto-daywententirelythroughmarshes。Assoonaswehadcrossedone，anotherwasbeforeus。Lavaseemedtoformthesoilhere，forlittleportionsofthismineralroselikeislandsoutofthemarshes。
Thecountryalreadygrewmoreopen，andwegraduallylostsightoftheglaciers。Thehighmountainsontheleftseemedlikehillsinthedistance，andtheneareroneswerereallyhills。AfterridingaboutninemileswecrossedthelargestreamofElvasinaboat，andthenhadtotreadcarefullyacrossaverylong，narrowbank，overameadowwhichwasquiteunderwater。Ifatravellerhadmetusonthisbank，Idonotknowwhatweshouldhavedone；toturnroundwouldhavebeenasdangerousastosinkintothemorass。
FortunatelyonenevermeetsanytravellersinIceland。
Beyondthedyketheroadrunsforsomemilesalongthemountainsandhills，whichallconsistoflava，andareofaverydark，nearlyblackcolour。Thestonesonthesehillswereveryloose；intheplainbelowmanycolossalpieceswerelying，whichmusthavefallendown；andmanyothersthreatenedtofalleverymoment。Wepassedthedangerousspotsafely，withouthavinghadtowitnesssuchascene。
Ioftenheardahollowsoundamongthesehills；Iatfirsttookitfordistantthunder，andexaminedthehorizontodiscovertheapproachingstorm。ButwhenIsawneithercloudsnorlightning，I
perceivedthatImustseektheoriginofthesoundsnearer，andthattheyproceededfromthefallingportionsofrock。
Thehighermountainstotheleftfadegraduallymoreandmorefromview；buttheriverElvasspreadsinsuchamanner，anddividesintosomanybranches，thatonemightmistakeitforalakewithmanyislands。Itflowsintotheneighbouringsea，whoseexpansebecomesvisibleaftersurmountingafewmoresmallhills。
ThevaleofReikum，whichwenowentered，is，likethatofReikholt，richinhotsprings，whicharecongregatedpartlyintheplain，partlyonorbehindthehills，inacircumferenceofbetweentwoandthreemiles。
WhenwehadreachedthevillageofReikumIsentmyeffectsatoncetothelittlechurch，tookaguide，andproceededtotheboilingsprings。Ifoundverymany，butonlytworemarkableones；these，however，belongtothemostnoteworthyoftheirkind。TheoneiscalledthelittleGeyser，theothertheBogensprung。
ThelittleGeyserhasaninnerbasinofaboutthreefeetdiameter。
Thewaterboilsviolentlyatadepthoffromtwotothreefeet，andremainswithinitsboundstillitbeginstospout，whenitprojectsabeautifulvoluminoussteamoffrom20to30feethigh。
Athalf-pasteightintheeveningIhadthegoodfortunetoseeoneoftheseeruptions，andneedednot，asIhaddoneatthegreatGeyser，tobivouacnearitfordaysandnights。Theeruptionlastedsometime，andwastolerablyequable；onlysometimesthecolumnofwatersankalittle，torisetoitsformerheightwithrenewedforce。Afterfortyminutesitfellquitedownintothebasinagain。
Thestoneswethrewin，itrejectedatonce，orinafewseconds，shiveredintopieces，toaheightofabout12to15feet。Itsbulkmusthavebeen1to1。5feetindiameter。Myguideassuredmethatthisspringgenerallyplaysonlytwice，rarelythrice，intwenty-
fourhours，andnot，asIhaveseenitstated，everysixminutes。I
remainednearittillmidnight，butsawnoothereruption。
ThisspringverymuchresemblestheStrukkernearthegreatGeyser，theonlydifferencebeingthatthewatersinksmuchlowerinthelatter。
Thesecondofthetworemarkablesprings，thearchedspring，issituatednearthelittleGeyser，onthedeclivityofahill。Ihadneverseensuchacuriousformationforthebedofaspringasthisis。Ithasnobasin，butlieshalfopenatyourfeet，inalittlegrotto，whichisseparatedintovariouscavitiesandholes，andwhichishalf-surroundedbyawallofrockbendingoveritslightlyataheightofabout2feet，andthenrises10to12feethigher。
Thisspringneverisatrestmorethanaminute；thenitbeginstoriseandboilquickly，andemitsavoluminouscolumn，which，strikingagainsttheprojectingrock，isflattenedbyit，andrisesthencelikeanarchedfan。Theheightofthispeculiarly-spreadjetofwatermaybeabout12feet，thearchitdescribes15to20feet，anditsbreadth3to8feet。Thetimeoferuptionisoftenlongerthanthatofrepose。Afteraneruptionthewateralwayssinksafewfeetintothecave，andfor15or20secondsadmitsofaglanceintothiswonderfulgrotto。Butitrisesagainimmediately，fillsthegrottoandthebasin，whichisonlyacontinuationofthegrotto，andspringsagain。
Iwatchedthismiraculousplayofnatureformorethananhour，andcouldnottearmyselffromit。Thisspring，whichiscertainlytheonlyoneofitskind，gratifiedmemuchmorethanthelittleGeyser。
ThereisanotherspringcalledtheroaringGeyser；butitisnothingmorethanamisshapenhole，inwhichonehearsthewaterboil，butcannotseeit。Thenoiseis，also，notatallconsiderable。
July3d。
NearReikumwecrossedabrookintowhichallthehotspringsflow，andwhichhasaprettyfall。Wethenascendedtheadjoiningmountain，androdefulltwohoursonthehighplain。Theplainitselfwasmonotonous，asitwasonlycoveredwithlava-stonesandmoss，buttheprospectintothevalleywasvariedandbeautiful。
Valeandseawerespreadbeforeme，andIsawtheWestmannIslands，withtheirbeautifulhills，whichtheenviouscloudshadconcealedfrommeontheHecla，lyinginthedistance。Belowmestoodsomehousesintheport-town，Eierbach，andnearthemthewatersoftheElvasflowintothesea。
Attheendofthismountain-levelavalleywassituated，whichwasalsofilledwithlava，butwiththatjaggedblacklavawhichpresentssuchabeautifulappearance。Immensestreamscrosseditfromallsides，sothatitalmostresembledablacklakeseparatedfromtheseabyachainofequallyblackmountains。
Wedescendedintothissombrevalethroughpilesoflavaandfieldsofsnow，andwentonthroughvalleysandchasms，overfieldsoflava，plainsofmeadow-land，pastdarkmountainsandhills，tillwereachedthechiefstationofmyIcelandicjourney，thetownofReikjavik。
ThewholecountrybetweenReikumandReikjavik，adistanceof45to50miles，is，forthemostpart，uninhabited。Hereandthere，inthefieldsoflava，standlittlepyramidsofthesamesubstance，whichserveaslandmarks；andtherearetwohousesbuiltforsuchpersonsasareobligedtotravelduringthewinter。Butwefoundmuchtrafficontheroad，andoftenovertookcaravansof15to20
horses。BeingthebeginningofAugust，itwasthetimeoftradeandtrafficinIceland。ThenthecountrypeopletraveltoReikjavikfromconsiderabledistances，tochangetheirproduceandmanufactures，partlyformoney，partlyfornecessariesandluxuries。
Atthisperiodthemerchantsandfactorshavenothandsenoughtobarterthegoodsorclosetheaccountswhichthepeasantswishtosettleforthewholeyear。
AtthisseasonanunusualcommotionreignsinReikjavik。Numerousgroupsofmenandhorsesfillthestreets；goodsareloadedandunloaded；friendswhohavenotmetforayearormorewelcomeeachother，otherstakeleave。Ononespotcurioustents{44}areerected，beforewhichchildrenplay；onanotherdrunkenmenstaggeralong，orgalloponhorseback，sothatoneisterrified，andfearseverymomenttoseethemfall。
Thisunusualtrafficunfortunatelyonlylastssixoreightdays。
Thepeasanthastenshometohishay-harvest；themerchantmustquicklyregulatetheproduceandmanufactureshehaspurchased，andloadhisshipswiththem，sothattheymaysailandreachtheirdestinationbeforethestormsoftheautumnalequinox。
Miles。
FromReikjaviktoThingvallais45
FromThingvallatotheGeyser36
FromtheGeysertoSkalholt28
FromSkalholttoSalsun36
FromSalsuntoStruvellir9
FromStruvellirtoHjalmholm28
FromHjalmholmtoReikum32
FromReikumtoReikjavik45
259
CHAPTERVII
DuringmytravelsinIcelandIhadofcoursetheopportunityofbecomingacquaintedwithitsinhabitants，theirmannersandcustoms。
ImustconfessthatIhadformedahigherestimateofthepeasants。
Whenwereadinthehistoryofthatcountrythatthefirstinhabitantshademigratedthitherfromcivilisedstates；thattheyhadbroughtknowledgeandreligionwiththem；whenwehearofthesimplegood-heartedpeople，andtheirpatriarchalmodeoflifeintheaccountsofformertravellers，andwhichweknowthatnearlyeverypeasantinIcelandcanreadandwrite，andthatatleastaBible，butgenerallyotherreligionsbooksalso，arefoundineverycot，——onefeelsinclinedtoconsiderthisnationthebestandmostcivilisedinEurope。Ideemedtheirmoralitysufficientlysecuredbytheabsenceofforeignintercourse，bytheirisolatedposition，andthepovertyofthecountry。Nolargetownthereaffordsopportunityforpomporgaiety，orforthecommissionofsmallerorgreatersins。Rarelydoesaforeignerentertheisland，whoseremoteness，severeclimate，inhospitality，andpoverty，areuninviting。Thegrandeurandpeculiarityofitsnaturalformationalonemakesitinteresting，andthatdoesnotsufficeforthemasses。
IthereforeexpectedtofindIcelandarealArcadiainregardtoitsinhabitants，andrejoicedattheanticipationofseeingsuchanIdyllicliferealised。IfeltsohappywhenIsetfootontheislandthatIcouldhaveembracedhumanity。ButIwassoonundeceived。
Ihaveoftenbeenimpatientatmywantofenthusiasm，whichmustbegreat，asIseeeverythinginamoreprosaicformthanothertravellers。IdonotmaintainthatmyviewisRIGHT，butIatleastpossessthevirtueofdescribingfactsasIseethem，anddonotrepeatthemfromtheaccountsofothers。
Ihavealreadydescribedtheimpolitenessandheartlessnessoftheso-calledhigherclasses，andsoonlostthegoodopinionIhadformedofthem。InowcametotheworkingclassesinthevicinityofReikjavik。ThesayingoftenappliedtotheSwisspeople，"Nomoney，noSwiss，"onemayalsoapplytotheIcelanders。AndofthisfactIcanciteseveralexamples。
ScarcelyhadtheyheardthatI，aforeigner，hadarrived，thantheyfrequentlycametome，andbroughtquitecommonobjects，suchascanbefoundanywhereinIceland，andexpectedmetopaydearlyforthem。AtfirstIpurchasedfromcharity，ortoberidoftheirimportunities，andthrewthethingsawayagain；butIwassoonobligedtogivethisup，asIshouldelsehavebeenbesiegedfrommorningtonight。Theiranxietytogainmoneywithoutlabourannoyedmelessthantheextortionatepriceswithwhichtheytriedtoimposeonastranger。Forabeetle，suchascouldbefoundundereverystone，theyasked5kr。about2d。；asmuchforacaterpillar，ofwhichthousandswerelyingonthebeach；andforacommonbird'segg，10to20kr。4d。to8d。Ofcourse，whenI
declinedbuying，theyreducedtheirdemand，sometimestolessthanhalftheoriginalsum；butthiswascertainlynotinconsequenceoftheirhonesty。ThebakerinwhosehouseIlodgedalsoexperiencedtheselfishnessofthesepeople。Hehadengagedapoorlabourertotarhishouse，who，whenhehadhalffinishedhistask，heardofotheremployment。Hedidnoteventakethetroubletoaskthebakertoexcusehimforafewdays；hewentaway，anddidnotreturntofinishtheinterruptedworkforawholeweek。Thisconductwasthemoreinexcusableashischildrenreceivedbread，andevenbutter，twiceaweekfromthebaker。
Iwasfortunateenoughtoexperiencesimilartreatment。HerrKnudsonhadengagedaguideforme，withwhomIwastotakemydepartureinafewdays。Butithappenedthatthemagistratewishedalsototakeatrip，andsentformyguide。Thelatterexpectedtobebetterpaidbyhim，andwent；hedidnotcometometodischargehimself，butmerelysentmewordontheeveofmydeparture，thathewasill，andcouldthereforenotgowithme。Icouldenumeratemanymoresuchexamples，whichdonotmuchtendtogiveahighestimateofIcelandicmorality。
Iconsoledmyselfwiththehopeoffindingsimplicityandhonestyinthemoreretireddistricts，andthereforeanticipatedatwofoldpleasurefrommyjourneyintotheinterior。Ifoundmanyvirtues，butunfortunatelysomanyfaults，thatIamnolongerinclinedtoexalttheIcelandicpeasantsasexamples。
Thebestoftheirvirtuesistheirhonesty。Icouldleavemybaggageunguardedanywhereforhours，andnevermissedtheleastarticle，fortheydidnotevenpermittheirchildrentotouchanything。Inthispointtheyaresoconscientious，thatifapeasantcomesfromadistance，andwishestorestinacottage，heneverfailstoknockatthedoor，evenifitisopen。Ifnoonecalls"comein，"hedoesnotenter。Onemightfearlesslysleepwithopendoors。
Crimesareofsuchrareoccurrencehere，thattheprisonofReikjavikwaschangedintoadwelling-houseforthechiefwardenmanyyearssince。Smallcrimesarepunishedsummarily，eitherinReikjavikorattheseatoftheSysselmann。CriminalsofadeeperdyearesenttoCopenhagen，andaresentencedandpunishedthere。
MylandlordatReikjavik，themaster-bakerBernhoft，toldmethatonlyonecrimehadbeencommittedinIcelandduringthethirteenyearsthathehadresidedthere。Thiswasthemurderofanillegitimatechildimmediatelyafteritsbirth。Themostfrequentlyoccurringcrimeiscow-stealing。
IwasmuchsurprisedtofindthatnearlyalltheIcelanderscanreadandwrite。Thelatterqualityonlywassomewhatrarerwiththewomen。Youthsandmenoftenwroteafirm，goodhand。Ialsofoundbooksineverycottage，theBiblealways，andfrequentlypoemsandstories，sometimesevenintheDanishlanguage。
Theyalsocomprehendveryquickly；whenIopenedmymapbeforethem，theysoonunderstooditsuseandapplication。Theirquicknessisdoublysurprising，ifweconsiderthateveryfatherinstructshisownchildren，andsometimestheneighbouringorphans。Thisisofcourseonlydoneinthewinter；butaswinterlastseightmonthsinIceland，itislongenough。
Thereisonlyoneschoolinthewholeisland，whichoriginallywasinBessestadt，buthasbeenremovedtoReikjaviksince1846。Inthisschoolonlyyouthswhocanreadandwritearereceived，andtheyareeithereducatedforpriests，andmaycompletetheirstudieshere，orfordoctors，apothecaries，orjudges，whentheymustcompletetheirstudiesinCopenhagen。
Besidestheology，geometry，geography，history，andseverallanguages，suchasLatin，Danish，and，since1846，GermanandalsoFrench，aretaughtintheschoolofReikjavik。
ThechiefoccupationoftheIcelandicpeasantsconsistsinfishing，whichismostindustriouslypursuedinFebruary，March，andApril。
Thentheinhabitantsoftheinteriorcometothecoastingvillagesandhirethemselvestothedwellersonthebeach，therealfishermen，asassistants，takingaportionofthefishastheirwages。Fishingisattendedtoatothertimesalso，butthenexclusivelybytherealfishermen。InthemonthsofJulyandAugustmanyofthelattergointotheinteriorandassistinthehay-
harvest，forwhichtheyreceivebutter，sheep'swool，andsaltlamb。
OthersascendthemountainsandgathertheIcelandmoss，ofwhichtheymakeadecoction，whichtheydrinkmixedwithmilk，ortheygrindittoflour，andbakeflatcakesofit，whichservetheminplaceofbread。
Theworkofthewomenconsistsinthepreparationofthefishfordrying，smoking，orsalting；intendingthecattle，inknitting，sometimesingatheringmoss。Inwinterbothmenandwomenknitandweave。
AsregardsthehospitalityoftheIcelanders，{45}Idonotthinkonecangivethemsoverymuchcreditforit。ItistruethatpriestsandpeasantsgladlyreceiveanyEuropeantraveller，andtreathimtoeverythingintheirpower；buttheyknowwellthatthetravellerwhocomestotheirislandisneitheranadventurernorabeggar，andwillthereforepaythemwell。Ididnotmeetonepeasantorpriestwhodidnotaccepttheprofferedgiftwithouthesitation。ButImustsayoftheprieststhattheywereeverywhereobligingandreadytoserveme，andsatisfiedwiththesmallestgift；andtheircharges，whenIrequiredhorsesformyexcursions，werealwaysmoderate。Ionlyfoundthepeasantlessinterestedindistrictswhereatravellerscarcelyeverappeared；
butinsuchplacesasweremorevisited，theirchargeswereoftenexorbitant。Forexample，Ihadtopay20to30kr。8d。to1s。forbeingferriedoverariver；andthenmyguideandIonlywererowedintheboat，andthehorseshadtoswim。TheguidewhoaccompaniedmeontheHeclaalsooverchargedme；butheknewthatIwasforcedtotakehim，asthereisnochoiceofguides，andonedoesnotgiveuptheascentforthesakeofalittlemoney。
ThisconductshowsthatthecharacteroftheIcelandersdoesnotbelongtothebest；andthattheytakeadvantageoftravellerswithasmuchshrewdnessasthelandlordsandguidesonthecontinent。
AbesettingsinoftheIcelandersistheirdrunkenness。Theirpovertywouldprobablynotbesogreatiftheywerelessdevotedtobrandy，andworkedmoreindustriously。Itisdreadfultoseewhatdeeprootthisvicehastaken。NotonlyonSundays，butalsoonweek-days，ImetpeasantswhoweresointoxicatedthatIwassurprisedhowtheycouldkeepintheirsaddle。Iam，however，happytosaythatIneversawawomaninthisdegradingcondition。
Anotheroftheirpassionsissnuff。Theychewandsnufftobaccowiththesameinfatuationasitissmokedinothercountries。Buttheirmodeoftakingitisverypeculiar。Mostofthepeasants，andevenmanyofthepriests，havenopropersnuff-box，butonlyaboxturnedofbone，shapedlikeapowder-flask。Whentheytakesnuff，theythrowbacktheirhead，insertthepointoftheflaskintheirnose，andshakeadoseoftobaccointoit。Theythen，withthegreatestamiability，offerittotheirneighbour，hetohis，andsoitgoesroundtillitreachestheowneragain。
Ithink，indeed，thattheIcelandersaresecondtononationinuncleanliness；noteventotheGreenlanders，Esquimaux，orLaplanders。IfIweretodescribeaportiononlyofwhatI
experienced，myreaderswouldthinkmeguiltyofgrossexaggeration；
Iprefer，therefore，toleaveittotheirimagination；merelysayingthattheycannotconceiveanythingtoodirtyforIcelanddelicacy。
Besidethisveryestimablequality，theyarealsoinsuperablylazy。
Notfarfromthecoastareimmensemeadows，somarshythatitisdangeroustocrossthem。Thefaultlieslessinthesoilthanthepeople。Iftheywouldonlymakeditches，andthusdrytheground，theywouldhavethemostsplendidgrass。Thatthiswouldgrowabundantlyisprovedbythelittleelevationswhichrisefromabovethemarshes，andwhicharethicklycoveredwithgrass，herbage，andwildclover。Ialsopassedlargedistrictscoveredwithgoodsoil，andsomewherethesoilwasmixedwithsand。
IfrequentlydebatedwithHerrBoge，whohaslivedinIcelandforfortyyears，andiswellversedinfarmingmatters，whetheritwouldnotbepossibletoproduceimportantpasture-groundsandhay-fieldswithindustryandperseverance。Heagreedwithme，andthoughtthatevenpotato-fieldsmightbereclaimed，ifonlythepeoplewerenotsolazy，preferringtosufferhungerandresignallthecomfortsofcleanlinessratherthantowork。Whatnaturevoluntarilygives，theyaresatisfiedwith，anditneveroccurstothemtoforcemorefromher。IfafewGermanpeasantsweretransportedhither，whatadifferentappearancethecountrywouldsoonhave!
ThebestsoilinIcelandisontheNorderland。Thereareafewpotato-groundsthere，andsomelittletrees，which，withoutanycultivation，havereachedaheightofseventoeightfeet。HerrBoge，establishedhereforthirtyyears，hadplantedsomemountain-
ashandbirch-trees，whichhadgrowntoaheightofsixteenfeet。
IntheNorderland，andeverywhereexceptonthecoast，thepeoplelivebybreedingcattle。Manyapeasanttherepossessesfromtwotofourhundredsheep，tentofifteencows，andtentotwelvehorses。
Therearenotmanywhoaresorich，butatalleventstheyarebetteroffthantheinhabitantsofthesea-coast。Thesoilthereisforthemostpartbad，andtheyarethereforenearlyallcompelledtohaverecoursetofishing。
BeforequittingIceland，ImustrelateatraditiontoldmebymanyIcelanders，notonlybypeasants，butalsobypeopleoftheso-
calledhigherclasses，andwhoallimplicitlybelieveit。