Unfortunatelythebadweatherincreased，andthickfogsrolleddownintothevalleys。Thewaterfloweddownfromthemountains，andtransformedournarrowpathintoabrook，throughwhichwehadtowadeankle-deepinwater。Atlastwereachedthespotwhichaffordedthebestviewofthefall。Itwasyetfreefrommist，andIcouldstilladmiretheextraordinarybeautyofthefallanditsquantityofwater。Isawtheimmensemountain-rockwhichclosesthevalley，thetremendouspillarofwaterwhichdashesoverit，andreboundsfromtherockprojectinginthecentreofthefall，fillingthewholevalleywithcloudsofspray，andconcealingthedepthtowhichitdescends。Isawthis，oneoftherarestandofthemostmagnificentofnaturalbeauties；butalas，Isawitonlyforamoment，andhadscarcelytimetorecoverfromthesurpriseofthefirstviewwhenIlostitforever!Iwasnotdestinedtoseethesinglegrandeursofthefallandofthesurroundingscenery，andwasfaintobecontentwithonelook，oneglance。Impenetrablemistsrolledfromallsidesintothewildglen，andshroudedeverythingincompletedarkness；Isatonapieceofrock，andgazedfortwohoursstedfastlyatthespotwhereafaintoutlineofthefallwasscarcelydistinguishablethroughthemistsometimesthisfainttraceevenwaslost，andIcouldperceiveitsvicinityonlybythedreadfulsoundsofthefall，andbythetremblingoftherockbeneathmyfeet。
AfterIhadgazed，andhoped，andraisedmyeyesentreatinglytoheavenforasinglerayofsunshine，allinvain，Ihadatlasttodetermineonmyreturn。Ileftmypostalmostwithtearsinmyeyes，andturnedmyheadmorebackwardsthanforwardsasweleftthespot。AttheleastindicationofaclearingawayofthefogI
shouldhavereturned。
ButIretiredfartherandfartherfromittillIreachedMaelagain，whereIsadlyenteredmyboat，andproceededuninterruptedlytoTindosoe。Iarrivedtheretowardsteno'clockatnight。Thewet，thecold，thewantoffood，and，aboveall，thedepressedanddisappointedstateofmymind，hadsoaffectedme，thatIwenttobedwithaslightattackoffever，andfearedthatIshouldnotbeabletocontinuemyjourneyonthefollowingday。Butmystrongconstitutiontriumphedovereverything，andatfiveo'clockinthemorningIwasreadytocontinuemyjourneytoBolkesoeonhorseback。
IwasobligedtohurryforfearofmissingthedepartureofthesteamerfromChristiania。ThejourneytoDelemarkenhadbeenrepresentedtomeasmuchshorterthanIfounditinreality；fortheconstantwaitingforhorses，boats，guides，&c。takesupverymuchtime。
August28th。
Ihadorderedmyhorsetobereadyatfiveo'clock，butwasobligedtowaitforituntilseveno'clock。
AlthoughImadeonlyashorttripintotheinterior，IhadsufficientopportunitiesforexperiencingtheextortionsandinconveniencestowhichatravellerisliableinNorway。NocountryinEuropeissomuchinitsinfancyasregardsallconveniencesforlocomotion。Itistruethathorses，carriages，boats，&c。canbehadateverystation，andthelawhasfixedthepriceofthesecommodities；buteverythingisinthehandsofthepeasantsandthepublicans，andtheyaresoskilledintormentingthetravellerbytheirintentionalslowness，thatheiscompelledtopaythetwo-foldtax，inordertoproceedalittlemorequickly。Thestationsareshort，beingrarelyabovefiveorsixmiles，andoneisthereforeconstantlychanginghorses。Arrivedatastation，iteitherhappensthatthereisreallynohorsetobehad，orthatthisisanostensibleexcuse。Thetravelleristoldthatthehorsehastobefetchedfromthemountain，andthathecanbeservedinoneandahalfortwohours。Thusheridesonehour，andwaitstwo。Itisalsonecessarytokeepthetariff，aseverytrifle，thesaddle，thecarriage，theharness，fetchingthehorse，theboat，&c。，hastobepaidforextra；andwhenthetravellerdoesnotknowthefixedprices，heiscertaintobedreadfullyimposedupon。Ateverystationabooklies，containingthelegalprices；butitiswritteninthelanguageofthedistrict，andutterlyunintelligibletothestranger。Intothisbook，whichisexaminedbythejudgeofthedistricteverymonth，onemayentercomplaintsagainstthepeasantorpublican；buttheydonotseemtofearit，fortheguidewhoaccompaniedmetothefallofRykanfossendeavouredtocheatmetwiceinthemostbarefacedmanner，bychargingmesix-foldfortheuseofthesaddlesandthefetchingofthehorse。WhenIthreatenedtoinscribemycomplaintinthebook，heseemednottocare，andinsistedonhisdemand，tillIwasobligedtopayhim。OnmyreturntoMael，Ikeptmyword，askedforthebook，andenteredmycomplaint，althoughIwasalonewithallthepeasants。Itwasnotsomuchthemoneywhichannoyedme，astheshamelessimposition。I
amofopinionthateveryoneshouldcomplainwhenheiswronged；ifitdoesnotbenefithim，itwillmakethemattermoreeasyforhissuccessor。
Imustconfess，injusticetothepeasants，thattheywereveryindignantwhenItoldthemofthedishonestyoftheircountryman，anddidnotattempttopreventmycomplaint。
Toconcludemyjourney，Ineedonlyremarkthat，althoughtherainhadceased，theskywasstillcoveredwithclouds，andthecountryshroudedinmist。IthereforetooktheshorterroadtoChristiania，bywhichIhadcome，althoughItherebymissedabeautifuldistrict，whereIshould，asIwastold，haveseenthemostsplendidperspectiveviewsinNorway。ThiswouldhavebeenontheroadfromKongsbergoverKroxlebentoChristiania。ThefinestpartisnearKroxleben。
Butthetimewastooshorttotakethisround，andIreturnedbywayofDrammen。InthevillageofMuni，aboutfivemilesfromKongsberg，whereIarrivedatseveno'clockintheevening，theamiablehostwishedtokeepmewaitingagaintwohoursforahorse；
andasthiswouldprobablyhavehappenedateverystation，IwasobligedtohireahorseforthewholedistancetoChristiania，atathreefoldprice。Islepthereforafewhours，leftinthenightatoneo'clock，andarrivedatChristianiathefollowingafternoonattwo。
OnthisjourneyIfoundallthosepeopleverykindandobligingwithwhomIcameintonosortofpecuniaryrelation；butthehosts，theboatmen，thedrivers，theguides，wereasselfishandgraspingasinanyothercountry。Ibelievethatkindnessanddisinterestednesswouldonlybefoundinanydistrictbyhimwhohasthegoodfortunetobethefirsttraveller。
Thislittleexcursionwasverydear；andyetIthinkIcouldnowtravelcheaplyeveninthiscountry，universallyacknowledgedtobedear。IwouldgowiththesteameralongthecoasttoHammerfest，buyalittlevehicleandagoodhorsethere，andthentravelpleasantly，andwithoutannoyance，throughthewholecountry。Butforafamilywhowishedtotravelinacomfortablecoveredcarriage，itwouldbeincalculablydear，andinmanypartsimpossible，onaccountofthebadroads。
TheNorwegianpeasantryarestrongandrobust，buttheirfeaturesarenotthemostcomely，andtheyseemedneitherwealthynorcleanly。Theyweregenerallyverypoorlyclad，andalwaysbarefooted。Theircottages，builtofwoodandcoveredwithtiles，aremoreroomythanthoseoftheIcelanders；buttheyareneverthelessdirtyandwretched。AweaknessoftheNorwegiansistheirfondnessforcoffee，whichtheydrinkwithoutmilkorsugar。
Theoldwomen，aswellasthemen，smoketheirpipesmorningandnight。
Miles。
FromChristianiatoKongsbergisabout41
FromKongsbergtothewaterfallLabrafoss5
FromKongsbergtoBolkosoe14
FromBolkosoetoTindosoe16
FromTindosoeacrossthelaketoMael16
FromMaeltothewaterfallRykanfoss11
103
CHAPTERIX
August30th。
Atseveno'clockthismorningIleftChristiania，accompaniedbythegoodwishesofmycountrywomanandherhusband，andwentbacktoGottenburgbythesamesteamerwhichhadbroughtmethencetendaysbefore。IneedonlymentionthesplendidviewofaportionofChristian'sSound——alsocalledFiord——whichIlostontheformerjourneyfromthedarknessofthenight。Wepasseditintheafternoon。ThesituationofthelittletownofLauervigissuperb。
Itisbuiltonanaturalterrace，borderedinthebackgroundbybeautifulmountains。Infront，thefortressofFriedrichsverliesonamountainsurroundedbyrocks，onwhichlittlewatch-towersareerected；totheleftliesthevastexpanseofsea。
WeweredelayedanhouratFriedrichsvertotransferthetravellersforBergen{50}toavesselwaitingforthem，aswehadstoppedonourpreviousjourneyatSandesundforthesamepurpose。
Thisisthelastviewinthefiord；fornowwesteeredintotheopensea，andinafewhourswehadlostsightofland。WesawnothingbutlandandwatertillwearrivedthenextmorningattheScheren，andsteeredforGottenburg。
August31st。
Theseahadbeenroughallnight，andwethereforereachedGottenburgthreehourslaterthanusual。Inthisagitatedsea，thesurgingofthebreakersagainstthemanyrocksandisletsnearGottenburghasaverycuriouseffect。
Thefewtravellerswhocouldkeepontheirfeet，whodidnotsufferfromsea-sickness，andremainedondeck，spokemuchofthedangerousstorm。Ihadfrequentlymarvelledtohearpeoplewhohadmadeajourney，ifitwereevenonlyashortoneoffortytosixtyleagues，relateofsomefearfulstormtheyhadwitnessed。NowIcomprehendedthereason，whenIheardthetravellersbesidemecallthebriskbreeze，whichonlyoccasionedwhatseamencallalittleswell，adreadfulstorm；andtheywillprobablytellathomeofthedangerstheyhavepassed。Stormsare，fortunately，notsofrequent。Ihavetravelledmanythousandleagues，andhaveoftenmetwithstormyweather，especiallyonthepassagefromCopenhagentoIceland；butI
onlyexperiencedonerealstorm，butaviolentanddangerousone，asIwascrossingtheBlackSeatoConstantinopleinApril1842。
WearrivedatGottenburgatnineinsteadofatsixo'clockinthemorning。Ilandedatonce，tomakethecelebratedtripthroughthelocks，overthewaterfallsofTrollhatta，withthenextStockholmsteamer。BythejunctionoftheriverGothawithsomeoftheinteriorlakes，thisgreatconstructioncrossesthewholecountry，andconnectstheNorthSeawiththeBaltic。
IfoundthetownofGottenburgveryanimated，onaccountofthepresenceofthekingofSweden，whowasspendingafewdayshereonhiswaytoChristianiatoproroguetheStorthing。IarrivedonaSunday，andtheking，withhisson，wereinthechurch。Thestreetsswarmedwithhumanbeings，allcrowdingtowardsthecathedraltocatchaglimpseofhismajestyonhisdeparture。I，ofcourse，mingledwiththecrowd，andwasfortunateenoughtoseethekingandprincecomeoutofthechurch，entertheircarriage，anddriveawayveryneartome。Bothwerehandsome，amiable-lookingmen。Thepeoplerushedafterthecarriage，andeagerlycaughtthefriendlybowsoftheintelligentfatherandhishopefulson；theyfollowedhimtohispalace，andstationedthemselvesinfrontofit，impatientlylongingforthemomentwhentheroyalpairwouldappearatawindow。
Icouldnothavearrivedatamorefavourabletime；foreveryonewasinholidayattire，andthemilitary，theclergy，theofficials，citizensandpeople，wereallexertingthemselvestotheutmosttodohonourtotheirking。
Inoticedtwopeasant-girlsamongthecrowdwhowerepeculiarlydressed。Theyworeblackpetticoatsreachinghalfwaydownthecalfoftheleg，redstockings，redspensers，andwhitechemises，withlongwhitesleeves；akerchiefwastiedroundthehead。Someofthecitizens'wivesworecapsliketheSuabiancaps，coveredbyalittleblack，embroideredveil，which，however，leftthefacefree。
Here，asinCopenhagen，Inoticedboysoftentotwelveyearsofageamongthedrummers，andinthebandsofthemilitary。
ThekingremainedthisdayandthenextinGottenburg，andcontinuedhisjourneyontheTuesday。Onthetwoeveningsofhisstaythewindowsinthetownwereornamentedwithwreathsoffreshflowers，interspersedwithlightedtapers。Somehousesdisplayedtransparencies，which，however，didnotplacetheinventivepowersoftheamiableGottenburgersinaveryfavourablelight。Theywereallalike，consistingofatremendousOOscar，surmountedbyaroyalcrown。
IwasdetainedfourdaysinGottenburg；andsmallconsiderationseemstobepaidtothespeedytransportoftravellersinSweden。
ThesteamerforStockholmstartedonthedayIarrivedfromChristiania，butunfortunatelyatfiveo'clockinthemorning；andasinthemonthofSeptemberonlytwosteamersgointheweektoStockholm，IwascompelledtowaittillThursday。Thetimehungheavilyonmyhands；forIhadseenthetownitself，andthesplendidviewsonthehillsbetweenthesuburbs，duringmyformervisittothetown，andtheotherportionsonlyconsistedofbarerocksandcliffs，whichwereofnointerest。
September4th。
Thepressoftravellerswassogreatthistime，thattwodaysbeforethedeparturethecabinswereallengaged；severalladiesandgentlemenwhowouldnotwaitforthenextsteamerwerecompelledtobesatisfiedwiththedeck，andIwasamongthem；fortheprobabilityofsuchacrowdofpassengershadnotoccurredtome，andIappliedforaplaceonlytwodaysbeforeourdeparture。
Duringthejourneyfreshpassengersweretakeninateverystation，andthereadermayconceivethemiseryofthepoorcitizensunusedtosuchhardships。Everyonesoughtashelterforthenight，andthelittlecabinsoftheengineerandsteersmanweregivenuptosome，whileotherscreptintothepassages，orsquatteddownonthestepsofthestairsleadingtothecabins。Aplacewasofferedtomeintheengineer'scabin；butasthreeorfourotherpersonsweretosharetheapartmentcalculatedonlyforoneperson，Ipreferredtobivouacnightanddayupondeck。Oneofthegentlemenwaskindenoughtolendmeathickcloak，inwhichIcouldwrapmyself；andsoIsleptmuchmorecomfortablyunderthehighcanopyofheaventhanmycompanionsdidintheirsweating-room。
ThearrangementsinthevesselsnavigatingtheGothacanalarebynomeansthebest。Thefirstclassisverycomfortable，andthecabin-
placeisdividedintoprettylightdivisionsfortwopersons；butthesecondclassisallthemoreuncomfortable:itcabinisusedforacommondining-roombyday，andbynighthammocksareslungupinitforsleepingaccommodation。Thearrangementsfortheluggageareworsestill。Thecanal-boats，havingonlyaverysmallhold，trunks，boxes，portmanteaus，&c。areheapeduponthedeck，notfastenedatall，andveryinsufficientlyprotectedagainstrain。
Theconsequenceofthiscarelessnessonajourneyoffiveorsixdayswas，thattherainandthehighwavesofthelakesfrequentlyputtheafter-deckseveralinchesunderwater，andthentheluggagewaswettedthrough。ItwasworsestillinasquallontheWennerlake；forwhiletheshipwasratherroughlytossedabout，manyatrunklostitsequilibriumandfellfromitshighposition，frequentlyendangeringthesafetyofthepassengers'heads。Thefaresare，however，verycheap，whichseemeddoublystrange，asthemanylocksmustcauseconsiderableexpense。
Andnowforthejourneyitself。Westartedatfiveo'clockinthemorning，andsoonarrivedintheriverGotha，whoseshoresforthefirstfewmilesareflatandbare。Thevalleyitselfisboundedbybare，rockyhills。AfteraboutninemileswecametothetownofKongelf，whichissaidtohave1000inhabitants。Itissosituatedamongrocks，thatitisalmosthiddenfromview。OnarockoppositethetownaretheruinsofthefortressBogus。Nowthescenerybeginstobealittlemorediversified，andforestsaremingledwiththebleakrocks；littlevalleysappearonboththeshores；andtheriveritself，heredividedbyanislet，frequentlyexpandstoaconsiderablebreadth。Thepeasants'cottageswerelargerandbetterthanthoseinNorway；theyaregenerallypaintedbrick-red，andareoftenbuiltingroups。
ThefirstlockisatLillaEdet:therearefivehere；andwhiletheshippassesthroughthem，thepassengershaveleisuretoadmirethecontiguouslow，butbroadandvoluminousfalloftheGotha。
Thisfirstbatchoflocksinthecanalextendsoversomedistancepastthefall，andtheyarepartlyblastedoutoftherock，orbuiltofstone。TheriverpastAkestronflowsasthroughabeautifulpark；thevalleyishemmedinbyfertilehills，andleavesspaceonlyforthestreamandsomepicturesquepathswindingalongitsshores，andthroughthepine-grovesdescendingtoitsbanks。
IntheafternoonwearrivedatthecelebratedlocksnearTrollhatta。
Theyareofgiganticconstruction，whichthelargeststateswouldbehonouredincompleting，andwhichoccasionsurprisewhenfoundinacountryrankinghighneitherinextentnorininfluence。Thereareelevenlockshere，whichrise112feetinaspaceof3500feet。
Theyarebroad，deep，blastedoutoftherock，andwalledroundwithfinefreestone。Theyresemblethesinglestepsofagiant'sstaircase；andbythisnametheymightfitlyrankasoneofthewondersoftheworld。Locksucceedslock，mightygatesclosethem，andthelargevesselrisesmiraculouslytothegiddyheightsinawildlyromanticcountry。
Scarcelyarrivedatthelocks，thetravellerissurroundedbyacrowdofboys，whooffertheirservicesasguidestothewaterfallsnearTrollhatta。Thereisabundanceoftimeforthisexcursion；forthepassageoftheshipthroughthemanylocksoccupiesthreetofourhours，andtheexcursioncanbemadeinhalfthetime。Beforestarting，itis，however，advisabletoclimbtherocktowhichthelocksascend。Apavilioniserectedonitssummit，andtheviewfromitdownoverallthelocksisexceedinglyfine。
PrettypathshewnoutofthewoodleadtoTrollhatta，whichischarminglysituatedinalovelyvalley，surroundedbywoodsandhills，ontheshoreofariver，whosewhitefoamingwavescontraststronglywiththedarkfoliageoftheovershadowinggroves。Thecanal，whichdescribesalargesemicircleroundthechiefstream，glittersinthedistance；butthehighestlocksarequiteconcealedbehindrocks；wecouldneitherobservetheopeningofthegatesnortherisingofthewaterinthem，andwerethereforesurprisedwhensuddenlythemastsandthentheshipitselfrosefromthedepth。Aninvisiblehandseemedtoraiseitupbetweentherocks。
Thefallsoftheriverarelessdistinguishedfortheirheightthanfortheirdiversityandtheirvolumesofwater。Theprincipalarmoftheriverisdividedatthepointofdeclineintotwoequalfallsbyalittleislandofrock。Alongnarrowsuspension-bridgeleadstothisisland，andhangsoverthefall；butitissuchaweak，frailconstruction，thatonepersononlycancrossitatatime。
Theownerofthisdangerouspathkeepsitprivate，andimposesatollofabout3。5d。onallpassengers。
Apeculiarsensationoppressesthetravellercrossingtheslenderpath。Heseesthestreamtearingonwards，breakingitselfontheprojectingrock，andfallsurgingintotheabyss；heseestheboilingwavesbeneath，andfeelsthebridgevibrateateveryfootstep，andtimidlyhastenstoreachtheisland，nottakingbreathtolookarounduntilhehasfoundfooting；onthefirmisland。A
solidrockprojectsalittleoverthefall，andaffordshimasafeposition，whenceheseesnotonlythetwofallsoneitherside，butalsoseveralothersformedaboveandbelowhispointofview。Thesceneissoenchanting，thatitisdifficulttotearoneselfaway。
BeyondTrollhattatheriverexpandsalmosttoalake，andisseparatedintomanyarmsbythenumerousislands。Theshoreslosetheirbeauty，beingflatanduninteresting。
WeunfortunatelydidnotreachthesplendidWennersee，whichisfromforty-fivetosixty-fivemileslong，andproportionallybroad，untilevening，whenitwasalreadytoodarktoadmirethescenery。OurshipremainedsomehoursbeforetheinsignificantvillageWennersborg。
Wehadmetsixorsevensteamersonourjourney，whichallbelongedtoSwedishorNorwegianmerchants；anditaffordedusapeculiarlyinterestingsighttoseetheseshipsascendanddescendinthehighlocks。
September5th。
AswewereleavingWennersborglateonthepreviousnight，andwerecruisingaboutthesea，acontrarywind，orratherasquall，arose，whichwouldhavesignifiedlittletoagoodvessel，buttowhichoursmallshipwasnotequal。Thepoorcaptaintriedinvaintonavigatethesteameracrossthelake；hewasatlastcompelledtogiveuptheattempt，toreturnandtocastanchor。Welostourboatduringthisstorm；ahighwavedashedoverthedeckandsweptitaway:ithadprobablybeenaswellfastenedasourboxesandtrunks。
Thoughitwasbutnineo'clockinthemorning，ourcaptaindeclaredthathecouldnotproceedduringtheday，butthatiftheweatherbecamemorefavourable，hewouldstartagainaboutmidnight。
Fortunatelyafishing-boatventuredtocomealongside，andsomeofthepassengerslanded。Iwasamongthem，andmadeuseofthisopportunitytovisitsomecottageslyingattheedgeofawoodnearthelake。Theywereverysmall，butconsistedoftwochambers，whichcontainedseveralbedsandotherfurniture；thepeoplewerealsosomewhatbettercladthantheNorwegians。Theirfoodtoowasnotsounpalatable；theyboiledathickmessofcoarseblackflour，whichwaseatenwithsweetmilk。
September6th。
Weraisedanchoratoneo'clockinthemorning，andinaboutfivehoursarrivedattheislandEken，whichconsistsentirelyofrock，andissurroundedbyamultitudeofsmallerisletsandcliffs。Thisisoneofthemostimportantstationsinthelake。Alargewoodenwarehousestandsontheshore，andinitisstoredthemerchandiseofthevicinityintendedforexport；andinreturnitreceivesthecargofromtheships。Therearealwaysseveralvesselslyingatanchorhere。
Wehadnowtowindthroughaclusterofislands，tillweagainreachedtheopenlake，which，however，wasonlyremarkableforitssize。Itsshoresarebareandmonotonous，andonlydottedhereandtherewithwoodsorlowhills；thedistantviewevenisnotatallnoteworthy。OneofthefinestviewsisthetolerablylargecastleofLeko，whichliesonarock，andissurroundedbyfertilegroves。
FurtheroffrisestheKinneKulle，{51}towhichthetraveller'sattentionisdirected，becauseitissaidtoaffordanextendedview，notonlyoverthelake，butfarintothecountry。Acuriousgrottoissaidtoexistinthishill；butunfortunatelyonelosesthesesightssincetheestablishmentofsteamers，forweflypasteveryobjectofinterest，andthelongestjourneywillsoonbedescribedinafewwords。
Alargeglass-factoryisestablishedatBromoe，whichfabricateswindow-glassexclusively。Westoppedashorttime，andtookaconsiderablecargoofthebrittlematerialonboard。
Thefactoryandthelittledwellingsattachedtoitareprettilysituatedontheundulatingground。
NearSjotorpweenteredtheriveragainthroughseverallocks。ThepassageoftheWennerseeiscalculatedatabouttenorelevenhours。
Theriveratfirstwindsthroughwoods；andwhiletheshipslowlypassesthroughthelocks，itispleasantertowalkaportionofthedistanceintheirshade。Fartheronitflowsthroughbroadvalleys，which，however，presentnoveryattractivefeatures。
September7th。
EarlyinthemorningwecrossedtheprettyVikensee，whichdistinguishesitself，likeallSwedishlakes，bythemultitudeofitsislands，cliffs，androcks。Theseislandsarefrequentlycoveredwithtrees，whichmaketheviewmoreinteresting。
Thelakeis306feetabovetheleveloftheNorthSea，andisthehighestpointofthejourney；fromthencethelocksbegintodescend。Thenumberofascendinganddescendinglocksamountstoseventy-two。
AshortcanalleadsintotheBoltensee，whichiscomparativelyfreefromislands。Thepassageacrossthislittlelakeisverycharming；
theshoresarediversifiedbyhills，woods，meadows，andfields。
AfteritcomestheWeltersee，whichcanbeeasilydefendedbythebeautifulfortressofKarlsborg。Thislakehastwopeculiarities:
onebeingtheextraordinarypurityandtransparencyofitswaters；
theother，thenumberofstormswhichprevailinit。Iwastoldthatitfrequentlyragedandstormedonthelakewhilethesurroundingcountryremainedcalmandfree。Thestormsometimesovertakestheshipsosuddenlyandviolently，thatescapeisimpossible；andthesagasandfablestoldofthedeceitfultricksofthesewavesareinnumerable。
Wefortunatelyescaped，andcrosseditssurfacecheerfullyandmerrily。Onitsshoresaresituatedthebeautifulladies'
pensionary，Wadstena，andthecelebratedmountainOmberg，atwhosefootabattlewasfought。
Thenextcanalisshort，andleadsthroughalovelywoodintothelittlelakeofNorbysee。Itiscustomarytowalkthisdistance，andinspectthesimplemonumentofCountPlaten，whomadetheplansforthelocksandcanals，——alasting，colossalundertaking。Themonumentissurroundedbyanironrailing，andconsistsofaslabbearinganinscription，simplystatinginSwedishhisname，thedateofhisdeath，&c。Nearlyoppositethemonument，ontheothersideofthecanal，isthetownofMotala，distinguishedprincipallyforitslargeironfactories，inwhichthespaciouswork-roomsareespeciallyremarkable。
FifteenlocksleadfromtheNorbyseeintotheRoxersee，whichisadescentof116feet。Thecanalwindsgracefullythroughwoodsandmeadows，crossedbyprettyroads，andstuddedwithelegantlittlehousesandlargeredifices。Distantchurch-steeplespointoutthevillageofNorby，whichsometimespeepsforthbehindlittleforests，andthenvanishesagainfromtheviewofthetraveller。Whenthesunshinesonthewatersofthiscanal，ithasabeautiful，transparent，pea-greencolour，likethepurestchrysolite。
TheviewfromthehillwhichrisesimmediatelybeforethelakeofRoxenisexceedinglyfine。Itlooksdownuponanimmensevalley，coveredwiththemostbeautifulwoodsandrocks，anduponthebroadlake，whosearmflowsfarinland。Theeveningsunsheditslastraysoveralittletownonthelake-shore，anditsnewly-paintedtilesshonebrightlyinitslightbeams。
Whiletheshipdescendedthroughthemanylocks，wevisitedtheneighbouringchurchofthevillageofVretakloster，whichcontainstheskeletonsofseveralkingsinbeautifully-mademetalcoffins。
Wethencrossedthelake，whichisfromfourtofivemilesbroad，andremainedallnightbeforetheentranceofthecanalleadingintoabayoftheBaltic。
September8th。
Thiscanalisoneofthelongest；itsenvironsareverypretty，andthevalleythroughwhichitrunsisoneofthelargestwehadpassed。ThetownofSoderkopingissituatedatthefootofhigh，picturesquegroupsofrocks，whichextendtoaconsiderabledistance。
EveryvalleyandeveryspotofsoilinSwedenarecarefullycultivated。
Thepeopleingeneralarewelldressed，andinhabitsmallbutveryprettyhouses，whosewindowsarefrequentlydecoratedwithcleanwhitedraperies。Ivisitedseveralofthesehouses，aswehadabundanceoftimeforsuchexcursionswhiletheshipwasgoingthroughthelocks。IthinkonemightwalkthewholedistancefromGottenburgtoStockholminthesametimethattheshiptakesforthejourney。Welosesomehoursdailywiththelocks，andareobligedtoliestillatnightontheiraccount。Thedistanceiscalculatedatfrom180to250miles，andthejourneytakesfivedays。
IntheeveningweapproachedtheBaltic，whichhasthesamecharacterastheScherenoftheNorthSea。Theshipthreadsitswaythroughashoalofislandsandislets，ofrocksandcliffs；anditisasdifficulttoimaginehereastherehowitispossibletoavoidalltheprojectingcliffs，andguidetheshipsosafelythroughthem。Theseadividesitselfintoinnumerablearmsandbays，intosmallandlargelakes，whichareformedbetweentheislandsandrocks，andarehemmedinbybeautifulhills。ButnothingcanexceedthebeautyoftheviewofthecastleStorryHusby，whichliesonahighmountain，inabay。Infrontofthemountainabeautifulmeadow-lawnreachestotheshoresofthesea，whilethebackissurroundedinthedistancebyasplendidpine-forest。Nearthispicturesquecastleasteeplerisesonaneighbouringisland，whichisallthatremainsoftheancientcastleofStegeborg。Nothingcanbemoreromanticthanthesceneryhere，andonthewholejourneyoverthefiord；foritpresentsitselfinever-varyingpicturestothetraveller'snotice。
Butgraduallythehillsbecomelower，theislandsmorerare；theseasupersedeseverything，andseemsjealouslyanxioustoexcludeotherobjectsfromthetraveller'sattention，asifitwishedtomonopoliseit。Nowwewereintheopensea，andsawonlywaterandsky；andthenagainweweresohemmedinbytherocksandcliffs，thatitwouldbeimpossibletoextricatetheshipwithouttheassistanceofanexperiencedpilot。
September9th。
Weleftthesea，andenteredanotherlake，theMalarsee，celebratedforitsnumerousislands，byashortcanal。ThetownofSotuljeliesatitsentrance，charminglysituatedinanarrowvalleyatthefootofarathersteephill。Thislakeatfirstresemblesabroadriver，butwidensateverystep，andsoonshewsitselfinitswholeexpanse。ThepassageoftheMalarseetakesfourhours，andisoneofthemostcharmingexcursionsthatcanbemade。Itissaidtocontainaboutathousandisletsofvarioussizes；anditmaybeimaginedhowvariedinformandfeaturethescenerymustbe，and，likethefiordoftheBaltic，whataconstantsuccessionofnewscenesitmustpresent。
Theshoresalsoareverybeautiful:insomespotshillsdescendsharplytothewater'sedge，thesteeprocksformingdangerouspoints；onothersdark，sombrepine-forestsgrow；andagaintherearegayvalleysandmeadows，withvillagesorsinglecottages。Manytravellersassertthatthislakeis，afterall，verymonotonous；butIcannotagreewiththeiropinion。Ifounditsoattractive，thatI
couldrepeatthejourneymanytimeswithoutwearyingofthislovelysameness。ItcertainlyhasnotthemajesticbackgroundsoftheSwisslakes；butthisprofusionofsmallislandsisapleasingpeculiaritywhichcanbefoundonnootherlake。
OnthesummitofasteepprecipiceoftheshorethehatoftheunfortunateEricishoisted，fastenedtoalongpole。Historytellsthatthiskingfledfromtheenemyinabattle；thatoneofhissoldierspursuedhim，andreproachedhimforhiscowardice，whereuponEric，filledwithshameanddespair，gavespurstohishorseandleapedintothefearfulabyss。Athisfallhishatwasblownfromhishead，andwasleftonthisspot。
NotfarfromthispointthesuburbsofStockholmmaketheirappearance，beingspreadroundoneofthebroadarmsofthelake。
Withincreasingcuriositywegazedtowardsthetownaswegraduallyapproachedit。Manyoftheprettyvillas，whicharesituatedinthevalleysoronthesidesofthehillsasforerunnersofthetown，comeintoview，andthesuburbsriseamphi-theatricallyonthesteepshores。Thetownitselfclosestheprospectbyoccupyingthewholeuppershoreofthelake，andisflankedbythesuburbsateitherside。TheRitterholmchurch，withitscast-ironperforatedtowers，andthetrulygrandroyalpalace，whichisbuiltentirelyintheItalianstyle，canbeseenandadmiredfromthisdistance。
WehadscarcelycastanchorintheportofStockholm，whenanumberofHerculeanwomencameandofferedustheirservicesasporters。
TheywereDelekarliers，{52}whofrequentlycometoStockholmtoearnalivelihoodasporters，water-carriers，boatwomen，&c。Theyeasilyfindemployment，becausetheypossesstwoexcellentqualities:theyaresaidtobeexceedinglyhonestandhard-working，and，atthesametime，havethestrengthandperseveranceofmen。
Theirdressconsistsofblackpetticoats，whichcomehalfwayoverthecalfoftheleg，redbodices，whitechemiseswithlongsleeves，shortnarrowapronsoftwocolours，redstockings，andshoeswithwoodensolesaninchthick。Theytwistahandkerchiefroundtheirhead，orputonalittlecloseblackcap，whichfitscloseonthebackpartofthehead。
InStockholmthereareentirehouses，aswellassinglerooms，which，asinahotel，areletbytheday。Theyaremuchcheaperthanhotels，andarethereforemoreindemand。Iatoncehiredoneoftheserooms，whichwasverycleanandbright，andforwhich，withbreakfast，Ionlypaidoneriksdaler，whichisaboutoneshilling。
CHAPTERX
AsmyjourneywasostensiblyonlytoIceland，andasIonlypaidaflyingvisittothisportionofScandinavia，myreaderswillpardonmeifItreatitbriefly。ThisportionofEuropehasbeensofrequentlyandsoexcellentlydescribedbyothertravellers，thatmyobservationswouldbeoflittleimportance。
IremainedinStockholmsixdays，andmadeasgooduseofmytimeasIcould。ThetownissituatedontheshoresoftheBalticSeaandtheMalarlake。Thesetwowatersareconnectedbyashortcanal，onwhoseshoresthemostdelightfulhousesareerected。
MyfirstvisitwastothebeautifulchurchofRitterholm，whichisusedmoreforacemeteryandanarmorythanforaplaceofworship。
Thevaultsserveasburial-placesforthekings，andtheirmonumentsareerectedintheside-chapels。Oneachsideofthenaveofthechurchareplacedeffigiesofarmedknightsonhorseback，whosearmourbelongedtotheformerkingsofSweden。Thewallsandanglesofthechurchareprofuselydecoratedwithflagsandstandards，saidtonumberfivethousand。Inadditiontothis，thekeysofconqueredtownsandfortresseshangalongtheside-walls，anddrumsarepileduponthefloor；trophiestakenfromdifferentnationswithwhichSwedenhasbeenatwar。
Besidesthesecuriosities，severalcoatsofarmourandgarmentsofSwedishregentsaredisplayedbehindglass-casesintheside-
chapels。Amongthem，thedresswhichCharlesXII。woreonthedayofhisdeath，andhishatperforatedbyaball，interestedmemost。
Hisriding-bootsstandonthegroundbesideit。Themoderndressandhat，embroideredwithgoldandornamentedwithfeathers，ofthelastking，thefounderofthenewdynasty，isnotlessinteresting，partlyperhapsfromthegreatcontrast。
ThechurchofSt。Nicholasstandsonthesamesideofthecanal，andisoneofthefinestProtestantchurchesIhadseen；itisveryevidentthatitwasbuiltinCatholictimes，andthatitsformerdecorationshavebeenallowedtoremain。Itcontainsseverallargeandsmalloil-paintings，someancientandsomemodernmonuments，andaprofusionofgilding。Theorganisfineandlarge；flankingtheentranceofthechurcharebeautifulreliefs，hewninstone；andaboveit，carvedinwood，astatueofthearchangelMichael，largerthanlife，sittingonhorsebackonabridge，intheactofkillingthedragon。
Nearthechurchissituatedtheroyalpalace，whichneedsamorefluentpenthanminetodescribeit。ItwouldfillavolumewereI
toenumerateanddescribethetreasures，curiosities，andbeautiesofitsconstruction，oritsinteriorarrangement；IcanonlysaythatIneversawanythingtoequalit，excepttheroyalpalaceofNaples。Suchanedificeisthemoresurprisinginthenorth，andinacountrywhichhasneverbeenoverstockedwithwealth。
ThechurchofShifferholmisremarkableonlyforitspositionanditstemple-likeform；itstandsontheledgeofarockfacingthe，royalpalace，ontheoppositeshoreofthesameindentationoftheBaltic。Alongbridgeofboatsleadsfromtheonetotheother。
ThechurchofSt。Catharineislargeandbeautiful。InanouterangleofthechurchisshewnthestoneonwhichoneofthebrothersSturrewasbeheaded。{53}
OntheRitterplatzstandstheRitterhouse，averyfinepalace；alsotheoldroyalpalace，andseveralotherroyalandprivatemansions；
buttheyarenotnearlysonumerousnorsofineasinCopenhagen，andthestreetsandsquaresalsocannotbecomparedwiththoseofthecapitalofDenmark。
ThefinestprospectisfromahillinoneofthesuburbscalledtheGreatMosbecken；itaffordsamagnificentviewoftheseaandthelake，ofthetownanditssuburbs，asfarasthepointsofthemountains，andofthelovelycountry-houseswhichbordertheshoresoflakeandsea。Thetownanditsenvironsaresointerspersedwithisletsandrocks，thattheseseemtobepartofthetown；andthisgivesStockholmsuchacuriousappearance，thatIcancompareittonoothercityIhaveseen。Woodedhillsandnakedrocksprolongtheview，andtheirridgesextendintothefardistance；whilelevelfieldsandlawnstakeupbutaverysmallproportionofthemagnificentscenery。
OndescendingfromthishillthetravellershouldnotfailtogotoSodermalm，andtoinspecttheimmenseiron-stores，whereironisheapedupincountlessbars。Thecorn-marketofStockholmisinsignificant。Theprincipalbuildingsbesidesthosealreadyenumeratedare，thebank，themint，theguard-house，thepalaceofthecrown-prince，thetheatre，&c。Thelatterisinteresting，partlybecauseGustavusIII。wasshotinit。Hefellonthestage，whileagrandmasqueradewastakingplace，forwhichthetheatrehadbeenchangedintoaball-room。Thekingwasshotbyamask，anddiedinafewhours。
Thereisnotarepresentationinthetheatreeverynight；andontheoneeveningofperformanceduringmyvisitafestivalwastobecelebratedinthehallofantiquities。TheesteemedartistVogelberg，anativeofSweden，hadbeautifullysculpturedthethreeheathengods，Thor，Balder，andOdin，incolossalsize，andbroughtthemoverfromRome。Thestatueshadonlybeenlatelyplaced，andalargecompanyhadbeeninvitedtomeetintheilluminatedsaloon，anddohonourtotheartist。Solemnhymnsweretobesungattheuncoveringofthestatues，besideotherfestivities。Iwasfortunateenoughtoreceiveaninvitationtothisfestival，whichwastocommencealittlepastseven。BeforethatIwenttothetheatre，which，Iwastold，wouldopenathalf-pastsix。Iintendedtoremaintherehalfanhour，andthendrivetothepalace，wheremyfriendswouldmeetmetoaccompanymetothefestival。Iwenttothetheatreatsix，andanxiouslywaitedhalfanhourforthecommencementoftheoverture；itwasafterhalf-pastsix，andnosignsofthecommencement。Ilookedagainatthebill，andsaw，tomyannoyance，thattheoperadidnotbegintillseven。ButasI
wouldnotleaveuntilIhadseenthestage，Ispentthetimeinlookingatthetheatreitself。Itistolerablylarge，andhasfivetiersofboxes，butisneithertastefullynorrichlydecorated。I
wasmostsurprisedattheexorbitantpriceandthevarietyofseats。
Icountedtwenty-sixdifferentkinds；itseemsthateveryrowhasadifferentprice，elseIdon'tunderstandhowtheycouldmakesuchavariety。
Atlasttheoverturebegan；Ilistenedtoit，sawthecurtainrise，lookedatthefatalspot，andleftafterthefirstair。Thedoor-
keeperfollowedme，tookmyarm，andwishedtogivemeareturn-
ticket；andwhenItoldhimthatIdidnotrequireone，asIdidnotintendtoreturn，hesaidthatithadonlyjustcommenced，andthatIoughttostop，andnothavespentallthemoneyfornothing。I
wasunfortunatelytoolittleacquaintedwiththeSwedishlanguagetoexplainthereasonofmydeparture，soIcouldgivehimnoanswer，butwentaway。I，however，heardhimsaytosomeone，"Inevermetwithsuchawomanbefore；shesatanhourlookingatthecurtain，andgoesawayassoonasitrises。"Ilookedroundandsawhowheshookhisheadthoughtfully，andpointedwithhisforefingertohisforehead。Icouldnotrefrainfromsmiling，andenjoyedthesceneasmuchasIshouldhavedonethesecondactofMozart'sDonGiovanni。
Icalledformyfriendsattheroyalpalace，andspenttheeveningveryagreeablyinthebrilliantly-illuminatedgalleriesofantiquitiesandofpictures。IhadthepleasurealsoofbeingintroducedtoHerrVogelberg。Hismodest，unpretendingmannersmustinspireeveryonewithrespect，evenifonedoesnotknowwhatdistinguishedtalenthepossesses。
TheroyalparkisoneofthefinestsightsintheneighbourhoodofStockholm，andisoneofthebestofitskind。Itisafinelargenaturalpark，withaninfinityofgroves，meadows，hills，androcks；
hereandthereliesacountry-housewithitsfragrantflower-garden，ortastefulcoffeeandrefreshmenthouses，whichonfineSundaysarefilledwithvisitorsfromthetown。Goodroadsaremadethroughthepark，andcommodiouspathsleadtothefinestpointsofviewoverseaandland。
ThebustofthepopularpoetBellmannstandsonanopensunnyspot，andanannualfestivalisgivenhereinhishonour。
Deeperintheparkliestheso-calledRosenthalRosevalley，arealEden。Thelatekingwassopartialtothisspot，thathespentmanyhoursinthelittleroyalcountry-househere，whichisbuiltonaretiredspotinthemidstofgrovesandflower-beds。Infrontofthepalacestandsasplendidvasemadeofasinglepieceofporphyry。IwastoldthatitwasthelargestinEurope，butI
considertheoneintheMuseumofNaplesmuchlarger。
IspentthelasthoursofmyvisittoStockholminthisspot，withtheamiablefamilyofHerrBojefromFinnland，whoseacquaintanceI
hadmadeonthejourneyfromGottenburgtoStockholm。Ishallthereforeneverforgetthisbeautifulparkandtheagreeableassociationsconnectedwithit。
ImadeaveryagreeableexcursionalsototheroyalpalaceofHaga，tothelargecemetery，andtothemilitaryschoolKarlberg。
TheroyalcastleofHagaissurroundedbyamagnificentpark，whichoweslittletoart；itcontainssomeofthefinesttrees，withhereandthereahill，andiscrossedbymajesticalleysandwell-keptroadsfordrivingandwalking。Thepalaceitselfissosmall，thatIcouldnotbutadmirethemoderationoftheroyalfamily；butIwasinformedthatthisisthesmallestoftheirsummerpalaces。
Nearlyoppositetothisparkisthegreatcemetery；butasithasonlyexistedforaboutseventeenyears，thetreesinitareyetratheryoung。Thiswouldbeoflittleconsequenceinothercountries，butinSwedenthecemeteriesserveaspromenades，andarecrossedbyalleys，ornamentedwithgroves，andprovidedwithseatsfortheaccommodationofvisitors。Thiscemeteryissurroundedbyadarkpine-forest，andreallyseemsquiteshutofffromtheouterworld。Itistheonlyburial-placeoutofthetown；theothersallliebetweenthechurchesandtheneighbouringhouses，whosefrontsoftenformtheimmediateboundary。Burialstakeplacethereconstantly，sothattheinhabitantsarequitefamiliarwiththeaspectofdeath。
FromthegreatcemeteryaroadleadstotheneighbouringKarlberg，whichistheacademyformilitaryandnavalcadets。Theextensivebuildingsattachedtothisseminaryarebuiltontheslopeofamountain，whichiswashedononesidebythewatersofthelake，andsurroundedontheotherbythebeautifulpark-plantations。
BeforeleavingStockholmIhadthehonourofbeingintroducedtohermajestytheQueenofSweden。Shehadheardofmytravels，andtookaparticularinterestinmyaccountofPalestine。Inconsequenceofthisfavour，Ireceivedthespecialpermissiontoinspectthewholeinteriorofthepalace。Althoughitwasinhabited，Iwasconducted，notonlythroughthestate-rooms，butthroughalltheprivateroomsofthecourt。Itwouldbeimpossibletodescribethesplendourwhichreignshere，thetreasuresofart，themagnificentappointments，andtheevidenttasteeverywheredisplayed。Iwasdelightedwithallthetreasuresandsplendour，butstillmorewiththewarminterestwithwhichhermajestyconversedwithmeaboutPalestine。Thisinterviewwilleverdwellonmymemoryasthebrightsalientpointofmynorthernexpedition。
EXCURSIONTOTHEOLDROYALCASTLEOFGRIPTHOLMONTHEMALARSEE