EverySundaymorning，ateighto'clock，alittlesteamerleavesStockholmforthiscastle；thedistanceisaboutforty-fivemiles，andispassedinfourhours；fourhoursmoreareallowedforthestay，andintheeveningthesteamerreturnstoStockholm。Thisexcursionisveryinteresting，althoughwepassthegreaterpartofthetimeonthatportionofthelakewhichwehadseenonourarrival，butforthelastfewmilestheshipturnedintoaprettybay，atwhoseapexthecastleissituated。Itisdistinguishedforitssize，itsarchitecture，anditscolossalturrets。Itisunfortunately，however，paintedwiththefavouritebrick-redcolouroftheSwedes。
Twoimmensecannons，whichtheSwedesoncegainedinbattlefromtheRussians，standinthecourtyard。Theapartmentsinthecastle，whicharekeptingoodcondition，displayneithersplendournorprofusionofappointments，indeedalmostthecontrary。Theprettytheatreis，however，anexception:foritswallsareinlaidfromtoptobottomwithmirrors，itspillarsaregilt，andtheroyalboxtapestriedwithrichredvelvet。TherehasbeennoperformanceheresincethedeathofGustavusIII。
Theimmenselymassivewallsarearemarkablefeatureofthispalace，andmustmeasureaboutthreeyardsinthicknessinthelowerstories。
Theupperapartmentsarealllargeandhigh，andaffordasplendidviewofthelakefromtheirwindows。Butitisimpossibletoenjoythesebeautifulsceneswhenonethinksofthesadeventswhichhavetakenplacehere。
Twokings，JohnIII。andEricXIV。，thelatterwithfourofhisministers，whoweresubsequentlybeheaded，wereimprisonedhereformanyyears。ThecaptivityofJohnIII。wouldnothavebeensobad，ifcaptivitywerenotbadenoughinitself。Hewasconfinedinalargesplendidsaloon，butwhichhewasnotpermittedtoquit，andwhichhewouldthereforeprobablyhavegladlyexchangedforthepooresthutandliberty。Hiswifeinhabitedtwosmallerapartmentsadjoining；shewasnottreatedasaprisoner，andcouldleavethecastleatwill。HissonSigismundwasbornhereintheyear1566，andtheroomandbedinwhichhewasbornarestillshewnascuriosities。
Eric'sfatewasmuchmoreunfortunate，forhewaskeptinnarrowanddarkconfinement。Asmallrudely-furnishedapartment，withnarrow，iron-barredwindows，inoneofthelittleturretswashisprison。
Theentrancewasclosedbyasolidoakendoor，inwhichasmallopeninghadbeenmade，throughwhichhisfoodwasgivenhim。Forgreatersecuritythisoakendoorwascoveredbyanironone。Roundtheoutsideoftheapartmentanarrowgalleryhadbeenmade，onwhichtheguardswereposted，andcouldatalltimesseetheirprisonerthroughthebarredwindows。Thespotisstillshewnatoneofthewindowswherethekingsatforhourslookingintothedistance，hisheadleaningonhishand。Whatmusthavebeenhisfeelingsashegazedonthebrightsky，theverdantturf，andthesmilinglake!Howmanysighsmusthavebeenechoedfromthesewalls，howmanysleeplessnightsmusthehavepassedduringthosetwolongyearsinanxiousexpectationofthefuture!
Theguidewhotookusroundthecastlemaintainedthatthefloorwasmorewornonthisspotthananywhereelse，andthatthewindow-sashhadbeenhollowedbytheelbowofthemiserableking；butIcouldnotperceiveanydifference。Ericwaskeptimprisonedherefortwoyears，andwasthentakentoanotherprison。
Thereisalargepicture-galleryinthiscastle；butitcontainsprincipallyportraitsofkings，notonlyofSweden，butofothercountries，fromtheMiddleAgesdowntothepresenttime；alsoportraitsofministers，generals，painters，poets，andlearnedmen；
ofcelebratedSwedishfemales，whohavesacrificedthemselvesfortheircountry，andofthemostcelebratedfemalebeauties。Thenameanddateofbirthofeachpersonareaffixedtohisorherportrait，sothateachvisitormayfindhisfavouritewithoutguideorcatalogue。Inmanyofthemthecolouringanddrawingarewretchedenough，butwewillhopethattheresemblanceisallthemorestriking。
Onourreturnseveralgentlemenwerekindenoughtodirectmyattentiontothemostinterestingpointsofthelake。AmongtheseI
mustmentionKakeholm，itsbroadestpoint；theislandofEsmoi，onwhichaSwedishfemalegainedabattle；Norsberg，alsocelebratedforabattlewhichtookplacethere；andSturrehof，thepropertyofagreatSwedishfamily。NearBjarkesoeasimplecrossiserected，ostensiblyonthespotwhereChristianitywasfirstintroduced。
IndeedtheMalarseehassomanyhistoricalassociations，inadditiontotheattractionsofitsscenery，thatitisoneofthemostinterestingseasnotonlyofSwedenbutofEurope。
JOURNEYFROMSTOCKHOLMTOUPSALAANDTOTHEIRON-MINESOFDANEMORA
September12th。
TheintercoursebetweenStockholmandUpsalaisveryconsiderable。
AsteamerleavesbothplaceseverydayexceptSunday，andtraversesthedistanceinsixhours。
TemptedbythisconvenientopportunityofeasilyandquicklyreachingthecelebratedtownofUpsala，andbytheunusuallyfineweather，Itookmypassageoneevening，andwasgreatlydisappointedwhen，onthefollowingmorning，therainpoureddownintorrents。
Butiftravellerspaidmuchattentiontotheweather，theywouldnotgofar；soIneverthelessembarkedathalf-pastseven，andarrivedsafelyinUpsala。Iremainedinthecabinduringthepassage，andcouldnotevenenjoytheprospectfromthecabin-windows，fortherainbeatonthemfromtheoutside，whileinsidetheywereobscuredbytheheat。ButIdidnotventureondeck，hopingtobefavouredbybetterweatheronmyreturn。
Atlast，aboutthreeo'clock，whenIhadbeeninUpsalamorethananhour，theweatherclearedup，andIsalliedouttoseethesights。
FirstIvisitedthecathedral。Ientered，andstoodstillwithastonishmentatthechiefportal，onlookingupatthehighroofrestingontworowsofpillars，andcoveringthewholechurch。Itisformedinonebeautifulstraightline，unbrokenbyasinglearch。
Thechurchitselfissimple:behindthegrandaltarahandsomechapeliserected，theceilingofwhichispaintedazureblue，embossedwithgoldenstars。InthischapelGustavusI。isinterredbetweenhistwowives。Themonumentwhichcoversthegraveislarge，andmadeofmarble，butclumsyandvoidoftaste。Itrepresentsasarcophagus，onwhichthreebodies，thesizeoflife，arelaid；amarblecanopyisraisedoverthem。Thewallsofthechapelarecoveredwithprettyfrescoes，representingthemostremarkablescenesinthelifeofthismonarch。Themostinterestingamongthemare，oneinwhichheentersapeasant'shutinpeasant'sattire，atthesamemomentthathispursuersareeagerlyinquiringafterhiminfrontofthehut；theother，whenhestandsonabarrel，alsodressedasapeasant，andharangueshispeople。TwolargetabletsinabroadgoldframecontaininSwedish，andnotintheLatinlanguage，theexplanationofthedifferentpictures，sothateverySwedemayeasilylearnthemonarch'shistory。
Severalothermonumentsareerectedintheside-chapels；thoseofCatharineMagelone，JohnIII。，GustavusErichson，whowasbeheaded，andofthetwobrothersSturre，whoweremurdered。ThemonumentofArchbishopMenander，inwhitemarble，isatastefulandartisticmodernproduction。ThegreatLinnaeusisburiedunderasimplemarbleslabinthischurch；buthismonumentisinoneoftheside-
chapels，andnotoverhisgrave，andconsistsofabeautifuldark-
brownporphyryslab，onwhichhisportraitissculpturedinrelief。
Thesplendidorgan，whichreachesnearlytotheroofofthechurch，alsodeservesspecialattention。Thetreasure-chamberdoesnotcontaingreattreasures；theblood-stainedanddagger-torngarmentsoftheunfortunatebrothersSturrearekeptinaglasscasehere；
andherealsostandsawoodenstatueoftheheathengodThor。ThiswoodenaffairseemstohaveoriginallybeenanEcceHomo，whichwasperhapstheornamentofsomevillagechurch，thencarriedoffbysomeunbeliever，andmademoreshapelessthanitscreator，notproficientinart，hadmadeit。Ithasagreaterresemblancenowtoafrightfulscarecrowthantoanythingelse。
Thechurchyardnearthechurchisdistinguishedforitssizeandbeauty。Itissurroundedbyawallofstonetwofeethigh，surmountedbyanironpalisadingofequalheight，brokenbystonepillars。Onseveralsides，stepsaremadeintotheburying-groundoverthispartition。Inthiscemetery，asintheoneofStockholm，oneseemstobeinalovelygarden，laidoutwithalleys，arbours，lawns，&c。；butitismorebeautifulthantheother，becauseitisolder。Thegravesarehalfconcealedbyarbours；manywereornamentedwithflowersandwreaths，orhedgedbyrose-bushes。Thewholeaspectofthiscemetery，orratherofthisgarden，seemsequallyadaptedfortheamusementofthelivingorthereposeofthedead。
Themonumentsareinnowaydistinguished；onlytwoareratherremarkable，fortheyconsistoftremendouspiecesofrockintheirnaturalcondition，standinguprightonthegraves。Oneofthesemonumentsresemblesamountain；itcoverstheashesofageneral，andislargeenoughtohavecoveredhiswholearmy；hisrelativesprobablytookthegravesofTroyasaspecimenfortheirmonument。
Itismoreoverinscribedbyverypeculiarsigns，whichseemedtometoberuniccharacters。Thegoodpeoplehaveunitedinthismonumenttwocharacteristicsoftheancientsoftwoentirelydistinctempires。
TheuniversityorlibrarybuildinginUpsalaislargeandbeautiful；
itissituatedonalittlehill，withafinefrontfacingthetown。
Thepark，whichis，however，stillsomewhatyoung，formsthebackground。{54}
Nearthisbuilding，onthesamehill，standsaroyalpalace，conspicuousforitsbrick-redcolour。Itisverylarge，andthetwowingsarefinishedbymassiveroundtowers。
Inthecentreofthecourtyard，behindthecastle，isplacedacolossalbustofGustavusI。，andafewpacesfromittwoartificialhillsserveasbastions，onwhichcannonsareplanted。Thisbeingthehighestpointofthetown，affordsthebestviewoverit，andoverthesurroundingcountry。
Thetownitselfisbuilthalfofwoodandhalfofstone，andisverypretty，beingcrossedbybroadstreets，andornamentedwithtastefullylaid-outgardens。Ithasonedisadvantage，whichisthedarkbrownish-redcolourofthehouses，whichhasapeculiarlysombreappearanceinthesettingsun。
Animmenseandfertileplain，diversifiedbydarkforestscontrastingwiththebrightgreenmeadowsandtheyellowstubble-
fields，surroundsthetown，andinthedistancethesilveryriverFyrisflowstowardsthesea。Forestsclosethedistantviewwiththeirdarkshadows。Isawbutfewvillages；theymay，however，havebeenhiddenbythetrees，forthattheyexistseemstobeindicatedbythewell-kepthighroadscrossingtheplaininalldirections。
BeforequittingmypositiononthebastionsoftheroyalpalaceI
castaglanceonthecastle-gardens，whichwerelyinglowerdownthehill，andareseparatedfromthecastlebyaroad；theydonotseemtobelarge，butareverypretty。
Ishouldhavewishedtobeabletovisitthebotanicgardennearthetown，whichwasthefavouriteresortofLinnaeus，whosesplendidly-
sculpturedbustissaidtobeitschiefornament；butthesunwassettingbehindthemountains，andIrepairedtomychamber，toprepareformyjourneytoDanemora。
September13th。
IleftUpsalaatfouro'clockinthemorning，toproceedtothefar-
famediron-minesofDanemora，upwardsofthirtymilesdistant，andwhereIwishedtoarrivebeforetwelve，astheblastingtakesplaceatthathour，afterwhichthepitsareclosed。AsIhadbeeninformedhowslowlytravellingisdoneinthiscountry，andhowtediousthedelaysarewhenthehorsesarechanged，Ideterminedtoallowtimeenoughforallinterruptions，andyetarriveattheappointedhour。
AfewmilesbehindUpsalaliesOldUpsalaGamlaUpsala。Isawtheoldchurchandthegrave-hillsinpassing；threeofthelatterareremarkablylarge，theotherssmaller。Itispresumedthatthehigheronescoverthegravesofkings。IsawsimilartumuliduringmyjourneytoGreece，onthespotwhereTroyissaidtohavestood。
Thechurchisnothonouredasaruin；ithasyettodoservice；anditgrievedmetoseethevenerablebuildingproppedupandcoveredwithfreshmortaronmanyatime-wornspot。
HalfwaybetweenUpsalaandDanemorawepassedalargecastle，notdistinguishedforitsarchitecture，itssituation，oranythingelse。ThenwenearedtheriverFyris，andthelonglakeofDanemora；botharequiteovergrownwithreedsandgrass，andhaveflatuninterestingshores；indeedthewholejourneyofferslittlevariety，astheroadliesthroughaplain，onlydiversifiedbywoods，fields，andpiecesofrock。Theseareinterestingfeatures，becauseonecannotimaginehowtheycamethere，themountainsbeingatagreatdistance，andthesoilbynomeansrocky。
ThelittletownofDanemoraliesinthemidstofawood，andonlyconsistsofachurchandafewlargeandsmalldetachedhouses。Thevicinityoftheminesisindicatedbeforearrivingattheplacebyimmenseheapsofstones，whicharebroughtbyhorse-ginsfromthepits，andwhichcoveraconsiderablespace。
Ihadfortunatelyarrivedintimetoseetheblastings。Thoseinthegreatpitarethemostinteresting；foritsmouthissoverylarge，thatitisnotnecessarytodescendinordertoseethepit-
menwork；allisvisiblefromabove。Thisisaverypeculiarandinterestingsight。Thepit，480feetdeep，withitscolossaldoorsandentrancesleadingsintothegalleries，lookslikeapictureofthelowerworld，fromwhichbridgesofrocks，projections，archesandcavernsformedinthewalls，ascendtotheupperworld。Themenlooklikepigmies，andonecannotfollowtheirmovementsuntiltheeyehasaccustomeditselftothedepthandtothedarknessprevailingbelow。Butthedarknessisnotverydense；Icoulddistinguishmostoftheladders，whichseemedtomelikechildren'stoys。
Itwasnearlytwelve，andtheworkmenleftthepits，withtheexceptionofthoseinchargeofthemines。Theyascendedbymeansoflittletubshangingbyropes，andwereraisedbyawindlass。Itisaterriblesighttoseethemensoaringuponthelittlemachine，especiallywhentwoorthreeascendatonce；forthenonemanstandsinthecentre，whiletheothertworideontheedgeofthetub。
Ishouldhavelikedtodescendintothegreatpit，butitwastoolateonthisday，andIwouldnotwaitanother。Ishouldnothavefearedthedescent，asIwasfamiliarwithsuchadventures，havingexploredthesalt-minesofWieliczkaandBochnia，inGallicia，someyearsbefore，inwhichIhadhadtoletmyselfdownbyarope，whichisamuchmoredangerousmethodthanthetub。
Withthestrokeoftwelve，fourblastingtrainsinthelargepitwerefired。Themanwhosebusinessitwastoapplythematchranawayingreathaste，andshelteredhimselfbehindawallofrock。
Inafewmomentsthepowderflashed，somestonesfell，andthenafearfulcrashwasheardallaround，followedbytherollingandfallingoftheblastedmasses。Repeatedechoesannouncedthefearfulexplosionintheinteriorofthepits:thewholeleftaterribleimpressiononme。Scarcelyhadonemineceasedtorage，whenthesecondbegan，thenthethird，andsoon。Theseblastingstakeplacedailyindifferentmines。
Theotherpitsaredeeper，thedeepestbeing600feet；butthemouthsaresmaller，andtheshaftsnotperpendicular，sothattheeyeislostindarkness，whichisastillmoreunpleasantsensation。
Igazedwithoppressedchestintothedarkspace，vainlyendeavouringtodistinguishsomething。Ishouldnotliketobeaminer；Icouldnotendurelifewithoutthelightofday；andwhenI
turnedfromthedarkpits，Icastmyeyesthankfullyonthecheerfullandscapebaskinginthesun。
IreturnedtoUpsalaonthesameday，havingmadethislittlejourneybypost。Icanmerelynarratethefacts，withoutgivinganopiniononthegoodorbadconveniencesforlocomotion，asthiswasmoreapleasure-tripthanajourney。
AsIhadhirednocarriage，Ihadadifferentvehicleateverystation，andthesevehiclesconsistedofordinarytwo-wheeledwoodencarts。Myseatwasatrussofhaycoveredwiththehorse-cloth。Iftheroadshadnotbeensoextremelygood，thesecartswouldhaveshakenterribly；butasitwas，ImustsaythatIrodemorecomfortablythaninthecarriolsoftheNorwegians，althoughtheywerepaintedandvanished；forinthemIhadtobesqueezedinwithmyfeetstretchedout，andcouldnotchangemyposition。
Thestationsareunequal，——sometimeslong，sometimesshort。Thepost-horsesareprovidedhere，asinNorway，bywealthypeasants，calledDschns-peasants。Thesehavetocollectacertainnumberofhorseseveryeveningforforwardingthetravellersthenextmorning。
Ateverypost-houseabookiskept，inwhichthetravellercanseehowmanyhorsesthepeasanthas，howmanyhavealreadybeenhired，andhowmanyareleftinthestable。Hemusttheninscribehisname，thehourofhisdeparture，andthenumberofhorsesherequires。Bythisarrangementdeceptionandextortionareprevented，aseverythingisopen，andthepricesfixed。{55}
Patienceisalsorequiredhere，thoughnotsomuchasinNorway。I
hadalwaystowaitfromfifteentotwentyminutesbeforethecarriagewasbroughtandthehorsesandharnessprepared，butneverlonger；andImustadmitthattheSwedishpost-mastershurriedasmuchaspossible，andneverdemandeddoublefare，althoughtheymusthaveknownthatIwasinhaste。Thepaceofthehorsedependsonthewillofthecoachmanandthepowersofhissteed；butinnoothercountrydidIseesuchconsiderationpaidtothestrengthofthehorses。Itisquiteridiculoustoseewhatsmallloadsofcorn，bricks，orwood，areallottedtotwohorses，andhowslowlyandsleepilytheydrawtheirburdens。
Thenumberofwoodengates，whichdividetheroadsintoasmanypartsastherearecommongroundsonit，areaterriblenuisancetotravellers。Thecoachmanhasoftentodismountsixoreighttimesinanhourtoopenandclosethesegates。Iwastoldthatthesedelectablegatesevenexistonthegreathighroad，onlynotquiteinsuchprofusionasontheby-roads。
WoodmustbeasabundanthereasinNorway，foreverythingisenclosed；evenfieldswhichseemsobarrenasnottobeworththelabourorthewood。
ThevillagesthroughwhichIpassedweregenerallyprettyandcheerful，andIfoundthecottages，whichIenteredwhilethehorseswerechanged，neatlyandcomfortablyfurnished。
Thepeasantsofthisdistrictwearapeculiarcostume。Themen，andfrequentlyalsotheboys，wearlongdark-blueclothsurtouts，andclothcapsontheirheads；sothat，atadistance，theylooklikegentlemenintravellingdress。Itseemscurioustoaforeignertoseetheseapparentgentlemenfollowingtheploughorcuttinggrass。
Atanearerview，ofcoursetheaspectchanges，andtherentsanddirtappear，ortheleathernapronwornbeneaththecoat，likecarpentersinAustria，becomesvisible。Thefemalecostumewaspeculiaronlyinsofarthatitwaspoorandragged。IndressandshoestheNorwegianandSwedesarebehindtheIcelanders，buttheysurpasstheminthecomfortoftheirdwellings。
September14th。
To-dayIreturnedtoStockholmontheMalarsee，andtheweatherbeingmorefavourablethanonmyformerpassage，Icouldremainondeckthewholetime。IsawnowthatwesailedforseveralmilesontheriverFyris，whichflowsthroughwoodsandfieldsintothelake。
ThelargeplainonwhicholdandnewUpsalaliewassoonoutofsight，andafterpassingtwobridges，weturnedintotheMalar。Atfirsttherearenoislandsonitsflatexpanse，anditsshoresarestuddedwithlowtree-coveredhills；butwesoon，however，arrivedattheregionofislands，wherethepassagebecomesmoreinteresting，andthebeautyoftheshoresincreases。ThefirstfineviewwesawwastheprettyestateKrusenberg，whosecastleisromanticallysituatedonafertilehill。ButmuchmorebeautifulandsurprisingisthesplendidcastleofSkukloster，alarge，beautiful，andregularpile，ornamentedwithfourimmenseroundturretsatthefourcorners，andwithgardensstretchingdowntothewater'sedge。
Fromthisplacethesceneryisfullofbeautyandvariety；everymomentpresentsanotherandamorelovelyview。Sometimesthewatersexpand，sometimestheyarehemmedinbyislands，andbecomeasnarrowascanals。Iwasmostcharmedwiththosespotswheretheislandsliesoclosetogetherthatnooutletseemspossible，tillanotherturnshewsanopeningbetweenthem，withaglimpseofthelakebeyond。Thehillsontheshoresarehigher，andthepromontorieslarger，thefarthertheshipadvances；andtheislandsappeartobemerelyprojectionsofthecontinent，tillanearerapproachdispelstheillusion。
ThevillageofSixtunaliesinapicturesqueandcharminglittlevalley，filledwithruins，principallyofroundtowers，whicharesaidtobetheremainsoftheRomantownofSixtum；thenamebeingretainedbythenewtownwithaslightmodification。
Afterthisfollowcliffsandrocksrisingperpendicularlyfromthesea，andwhosevicinitywouldbebynomeansdesirableinastorm。
OfthecastleofRouseonlythreebeautifuldomesriseabovethetrees；afrowningbleakhillconcealstherestfromtheeye。Thencomesapalace，thepropertyofaprivateindividual，onlyremarkableforitssize。ThelastofthenotabilitiesistheRokebybridge，saidtobeoneofthelongestinSweden。ItunitesthefirmlandwiththeislandonwhichtheroyalcastleofDrottingholmstands。ThetownofStockholmnowbecomesvisible；weturnintotheportionofthelakeonwhichitlies，andarrivethereagainattwoo'clockintheafternoon。
FROMSTOCKHOLMTOTRAVEMUNDEANDHAMBURGH
IbadefarewelltoStockholmonthe18thSeptember，andembarkedinthesteamerSvithiold，of100-horsepower，attwelveo'clockatnoon，togotoTravemunde。
Fewpassagescanbemoreexpensivethanthisoneis。Thedistanceisfivehundredleagues，andthejourneygenerallyoccupiestwoandahalftothreedays；forthisthefare，withoutfood，isfourpounds。Thefoodisalsoexorbitantlydear；inadditiontowhichthecaptainisthepurveyor；sothatthereisnoappealforthegrossestextortionorinsufficiency。
Itpainedmemuchwhenoneofthepoorertravellers，whosufferedgreatlyfromsea-sickness，havingappliedforsomesouptothesteward，whoreferredhimtotheamiablecaptain，tohearhimdeclarehewouldmakenoexception，andthatabasinofsoupwouldbechargedthewholepriceofacompletedinner。Thepoormanwastodowithoutthesoup，ofwhichhestoodsomuchinneed，orscrapeeveryfarthingtogethertopayafewshillingsdailyforhisdinner。
Fortunatelyforhimsomebenevolentpersonsondeckpaidforhismeals。Someofthegentlemenbroughttheirownwinewiththem，forwhichtheyhadtopayasmuchdutytothecaptainasthewinewasworth。
Tothesepleasuresoftravellingmustbeaddedthefact，thataSwedishvesseldoesnotadvanceatalliftheweatherisunfavourable。Mostofthepassengersconsideredthattheengineswereinefficient。Howeverthismaybe，weweredelayedtwenty-fourhoursatthefirsthalfofourjourney，fromStockholmtoCalmar，althoughwehadonlyaslightbreezeagainstusandaratherhighsea，butnostorm。InCalmarwecastanchor，andwaitedformorefavourablewind。Severalgentlemen，whosebusinessinLubeckwaspressing，leftthesteamer，andcontinuedtheirjourneybyland。
AtfirsttheBalticverymuchresemblestheMalarsee；forislands，rocks，andavarietyofscenerymakeitinteresting。TotherightwesawtheimmenselylongwoodenbridgeofLindenborg，whichunitesoneofthelargerislandswiththecontinent。
AttheendofoneoftheturnsofthesealiesthetownofWachsholm；andoppositetoit，uponalittlerockyisland，asplendidfortresswithacolossalroundtower。Judgingbythenumberofcannonsplantedalongthewalls，thisfortressmustbeofgreatimportance。Afewhourslaterwepassedasimilarfortress，Friedrichsborg；itisnotinsuchanopensituationastheother，butismoresurroundedbyforests。Wepassedataconsiderabledistance，andcouldnotseemuchofit，norofthecastlelyingontheoppositeside，whichseemstobeverymagnificent，andisalsosurroundedbywoods。
Theboundariesoftherightshorenowdisappear，butthenagainappearasaterribleheapofnakedrocks，atwhoseextremeedgeissituatedthefinefortressDolero。Nearitgroupsofhousesarebuiltonthebarerocksprojectingintothesea，andformanextensivetown。
September19th。
To-daywewereontheopen，somewhatstormysea。TowardsnoonwearrivedattheCalmarSound，formedbytheflat，uniformshoresofthelongislandOlandontheleft，andontherightbySchmoland。
Infrontrosethemountain-islandtheJungfrau，towhicheverySwedepointswithself-satisfiedpride。Itsheightisonlyremarkablecomparedwiththeflatnessaround；besidetheproudgiant-mountainofthesamenameinSwitzerlanditwouldseemlikealittlehill。
September20th。
Onaccountofthecontrarywind，wehadcastanchorherelastnight，andthismorningcontinuedthejourneytoCalmar，wherewearrivedabouttwointheforenoon。Thetownissituatedonanimmenseplain，andisnotveryinteresting。Afewhoursmaybeagreeablyspenthereinvisitingthebeautifulchurchandtheantiquatedcastle，andwehadmorethanenoughleisureforit。Windandweatherseemedtohaveconspiredagainstus，andthecaptainannouncedanindefinitestayatthisplace。Atfirstwecouldnotland，asthewavesweretoohigh；butatlastoneofthelargerboatscamealongside，andthemorecuriousamongusventuredtorowtothelandintheunsteadyvessel。
Theexteriorofthechurchresemblesafineantiquatedcastlefromitsfourcornertowersandthelownessofitsdome，whichrisesverylittleabovethebuilding，andalsobecausetheotherturretshereandthereerectedforornamentarescarcelyperceptible。Theinteriorofthechurchisremarkableforitssize，itsheight，andaparticularlyfineecho。Thetonesoftheorganaresaidtoproduceamoststrikingeffect。Wesentfortheorganist，buthewasnowheretobefound；sowehadtocontentourselveswiththeechoofourownvoices。WewentfromthisplacetotheoldroyalcastlebuiltbyQueenMargaretinthesixteenthcentury。Thecastleissodilapidatedinsidethatatarryingintheupperchambersisscarcelyadvisable。Thelowerroomsofthecastlehavebeenrepaired，andareusedasprisons；andaswepassed，armswerestretchedforthfromsomeofthebarredwindows，andplaintivevoicesentreatedthepassers-bytobestowsometrifleuponthepoorinmates。Upwardsof140prisonersaresaidtobeconfinedhere。{56}
Aboutthreeo'clockintheafternoonthewindabated，andwecontinuedourjourney。Thepassageisveryuniform，andwesawonlyflat，bareshores；agroupoftreesevenwasararity。
September21st。
WhenIcameondeckthismorningtheSoundwasfarbehindus。Totheleftwehadtheopensea；ontheright，insteadofthebleakSchmoland，wehadthebleakerSchonen，whichwassobarren，thatwehardlysawapaltryfishing-villagebetweenthelowsterilehills。
Atnineo'clockinthemorningweanchoredintheportofYstadt。
Thetownispretty，andhasalargesquare，inwhichstandthehouseofthegovernor，thetheatre，andthetown-hall。Thestreetsarebroad，andthehousespartlyofwoodandpartlyofstone。Themostinterestingfeatureistheancientchurch，andinitamuch-damagedwoodenaltar-piece，whichiskeptinthevestry。Thoughthefiguresarecoarseanddisproportionate，onemustadmirethecompositionandthecarving。Thereliefsonthepulpit，andabeautifulmonumenttotherightofthealtar，alsodeserveadmiration。Theseareallcarvedinwood。
IntheafternoonwepassedtheDanishislandMalmo。
Atlast，afterhavingbeennearlyfourdaysontheseainsteadoftwodaysandahalf，wearrivedsafelyintheharbourofTravemundeonthe22dSeptemberattwoo'clockinthemorning。Andnowmysea-
journeyswereover；Ipartedsorrowfullyfromthesaltwaters，foritissodelightfultoseethewater'sexpanseallaround，andtraverseitsmirror-likesurface。Theseapresentsabeautifulpicture，evenwhenitstormsandrages，whenwavestoweruponwaves，andthreatentodashthevesseltopiecesortoengulfit——whentheshipalternatelydancesontheirpoints，orshootsintotheabyss；
andIfrequentlycreptforhoursinacorner，orheldfasttothesidesoftheship，andletthewavesdashoverme。Ihadovercometheterriblesea-sicknessduringmynumerousjourneys，andcouldthereforefreelyadmirethesefearfullybeautifulscenesofexcitednature，andadoreGodinHisgrandestworks。
Wehadscarcelycastanchorintheportwhenawholearrayofcoachmensurroundedus，volunteeringtodriveusoverlandtoHamburgh，ajourneyofthirty-sixmiles，whichittakeseighthourstoaccomplish。
Travemundeisaprettyspot，whichreallyconsistsofonlyonestreet，inwhichthemajorityofthehousesarehotels。ThecountryfromheretoLubeck，adistanceoftenmiles，isverypretty。A
splendidroad，onwhichthecarriagesrollsmoothlyalong，runsthroughacharmingwoodpastacemetery，whosebeautyexceedsthatofUpsala；butforthemonuments，onemighttakeitforoneofthemostsplendidparksorgardens。
IregrettednothingsomuchasbeingunabletospendadayinLubeck，forIfeltverymuchattractedbythisoldHansetown，withitspyramidically-builthouses，itsvenerabledome，andotherbeautifulchurches，itsspacioussquares，&c。；butIwasobligedtoproceed，andcouldonlygazeatandadmireitasIhurriedthrough。
ThepavementofthestreetsisbetterthanIhadseenitinanynortherntown；andonthestreets，infrontofthehouses，Isawmanywoodenbenches，onwhichtheinhabitantsprobablyspendtheirsummerevenings。Isawhereforthefirsttimeagainthegay-
lookingstreet-mirrorsusedinHamburgh。TheTrave，whichflowsbetweenTravemundeandLubeck，hastobecrossedbyboat。NearOldesloearethesalt-factories，withlargebuildingsandimmenselyhighchimneys；anoldromanticcastle，entirelysurroundedbywater，liesnearArensburg。
PastArensburgthecountrybeginstobeuninteresting，andremainssoasfarasHamburgh；butitseemstobeveryfertile，asthereisanabundanceofgreenfieldsandfinemeadows。
ThelittlejourneyfromLubecktoHamburghisratherdear，onaccountofthealmostincrediblenumberoftollsandduesthepoorcoachmenhavetopay。TheyhavefirsttoprocurealicensetodrivefromLubeckintoHamburghterritory，whichcostsabout1s。3d。；thenminehadtopaytwiceadoubletollof8d。，becausewepassedthroughbeforefiveo'clockinthemorning，andthegates，whicharenotopenedtillfiveo'clock，wereunfastenedespeciallyforus；
besidesthese，therewasapennytollonnearlyeverymile。
Thisdreadfulannoyanceoftheconstantstoppingandthetoll-barsisunknowninNorwayandinSweden。There，anannualtaxispaidforeveryhorse，andtheownercanthendrivefreelythroughthewholecountry，asnotoll-barsareerected。
Thefarm-houseshereareverylargeandfar-spread，butthereasonis，thatstable，barn，andshippenareunderthesameroof:thewallsofthehousesareofwoodfilledinwithbricks。
AfterpassingArensburg，wesawthesteeplesofWandsbeckandHamburghinthedistance；thetwotownsseemtobeone，andare，infact，onlyseparatedbyprettycountry-houses。ButWandsbeckcomparedtoHamburghisavillage，notatown。
IarrivedinHamburghabouttwoo'clockintheafternoon；andmyrelativesweresoastonishedatmyarrival，thattheyalmosttookmeforaghost。Iwasatfirststartledbytheirreception，butsoonunderstoodthereasonofit。
AtthetimeIleftIcelandanothervesselwenttoAltona，bywhichI
sentaboxofmineralsandcuriositiestomycousininHamburgh。
ThesailorwhobroughttheboxgavesuchadescriptionofthewretchedvesselinwhichIhadgonetoCopenhagen，that，afterhavingheardnothingofmefortwomonths，hethoughtImusthavegonetothebottomoftheseawiththeship。IhadindeedwrittenfromCopenhagen，buttheletterhadbeenlost；andhencetheirsurpriseanddelightatmyarrival。
CHAPTERXI
Ihadnotmuchtimetospare，sothatIcouldonlystayafewdayswithmyrelativesinHamburgh；onthe26thSeptember，IwentinalittlesteamerfromHamburghtoHarburg，wherewearrivedinthreequartersofanhour。FromthenceIproceededinastage-carriagetoCelle，aboutsixty-fivemiles。
Thecountryisnotveryinteresting；itconsistsforthemostpartofplains，whichdegenerateintoheathsandmarshes；butthereareafewfertilespotspeepingouthereandthere。
September27th。
WearrivedatCelleinthenight。FromheretoLehrte，adistanceofaboutsevenmiles，Ihadtohireaprivateconveyance，butfromLehrtetherailwaygoesdirecttoBerlin。{57}Manylargerandsmallertownsarepassedonthisroad；butwesawlittleofthem，asthestationsalllieatsomedistance，andtherailway-trainonlystopsafewminutes。
ThefirsttownwepassedwasBrunswick。Immediatelybeyondthetownliestheprettyducalpalace，builtintheGothicstyle，inthecentreofafinepark。Wolfenbuttelseemstobeaconsiderabletown，judgingbythequantityofhousesandchurch-steeples。A
prettywoodenbridge，withanelegantly-madeironbalustrade，isbuilthereacrosstheOcker。Fromthetown，abeautifullaneleadstoagentlehill，onwhosetopstandsalovelybuilding，usedasacoffee-house。
AssoonasonehaspassedtheHanoveriandomainsthecountry，thoughitisnotricherinnaturalcuriosities，islessabundantinmarshesandheaths，andisverywell-cultivatedland。Manyvillagesarespreadaround，andmanyacharmingtownexcitesthewishtotravelthroughataslowerpace。
WepassedSchepenstadt，Jersheim，andWegersleben，whichlattertownalreadybelongstoPrussia。InAsherslebenandinMagdeburgwechangedcarriages。NearSalzewesawsomefinebuildingswhichbelongtotheextensivesaltworksexistinghere。JernaudauisacolonyofMoravians。IshouldhavewishedtovisitthetownofKotten，——fornothingcanbemorecharmingthanthesituationofthetowninthemidstoffragrantgardens，——butweunfortunatelyonlystoppedthereafewminutes。ThetownofDessauisalsosurroundedbyprettyscenery:severalbridgescrossthevariousarmsoftheElbe；thatovertheriveritselfrestsonsolidstonecolumns。OfWittenbergweonlysawhousetopsandchurch-steeples；thesameofJuterbog，whichlooksasifitwerenewlybuilt。NearLukewaldetheregionsofsandbegin，andtheuniformityisonlybrokenbyalittleridgeofwoodedhillsnearTrebbin；butwhenthesearepast，therailwaypassesontoBerlinthroughamelancholy，unmitigateddesertofsand。
Ihadtravelledfromsixo'clockthismorninguntilsevenintheevening，overadistanceofabouttwohundredandtwentymiles，duringwhichtimewehadfrequentlychangedcarriages。
Thenumberofpassengerswehadtakenupontheroadwasverygreat，onaccountoftheLeipzicfairs；sometimesthetrainhadthirty-fivetofortycarriages，threelocomotives，andseventoeighthundredpassengers；andyetthegreatestorderhadprevailed。ItisagreatconveniencethatonecantakeaticketfromLehrtetoBerlin，althoughtherailwaypassesthroughsomanydifferentstates，becausethenoneneedsnotlookaftertheluggageoranythingelse。
Theofficialsontherailwayareallverycivil。Assoonasthetrainstopped，theguardsannouncedwithaloudvoicethetimeallowed，howeverlongorshortitmightbe；sothatthepassengerscouldactaccordingly，andtakerefreshmentsintheneighbouringhotels。Thearrangementsforalightingareveryconvenient:thecarriagesrunintodeeprailsatthestations，sothatthegroundislevelwiththecarriages，andtheentranceandexiteasy。Thecarriagesarelikebroadcoaches；twoseatsranbreadthwiseacrossthem，withalargedoorateachside。Thefirstandsecondclasscontaineightpersonsineachdivision，thethirdclassten。Thecarriagesareallnumbered，sothateverypassengercaneasilyfindhisseat。
Bythesesimplearrangementsthetravellermaydescendandwalkaboutalittle，eventhoughthetrainshouldonlystoptwominutes，orevenpurchasesomerefreshments，withoutanyconfusionorcrowding。
Theseconveniencesare，ofcourse，impossiblewhenthecarriageshavethelengthofahouse，andcontainsixtyorseventypersonswithinlockeddoors，andwherethedoorsareopenedbytheguards，whoonlycalloutthenameofthestationwithoutannouncinghowlongthestayis。Insuchrailwaysitisnotadvisablefortravellerstoleavetheirseats；forbeforetheycanpassfromoneendofthecarriagetotheother，throughthenarrowdooranddownthesteepsteps，thehornissounded，andatthesametimethetrainmoveson；thesoundbeingthesignalfortheengine-driver，thepassengershavingnone。
Inthesestatestherewasalsonottheleasttroublewiththepassportandtheintolerablepass-tickets。Noofficiouspolice-
soldiercomestothecarriage，andpreventsthepassengersalightingbeforetheyhaveansweredallhisquestions。Ifpassportshadtobeinspectedonthisjourney，itwouldtakeafewdays，fortheymustalwaysbetakentothepassport-office，astheyareneverexaminedonthespot。
Suchannoyinginterruptionsoftenoccurseveraltimesinthesamestate。Andoneneednotevencomefromabroadtoexperiencethem，asajourneyfromaprovincialtoacapitaltownaffordsenoughscopeforannoyance。
IhadnoreasontocomplainofsuchannoyancesinanyofthecountriesthroughwhichIhadhithertopassed。Mypassportwasonlydemandedinmyhotelinthecapitalsofthecountries，ifIintendedtoremainseveraldays。InStockholm，however，Ifoundacuriousarrangement；everyforeignerthereisobligedtoprocureaSwedishpassport，andpayhalf-a-crownforit，ifheonlyremainsafewhoursinthetown。Thisis，inreality，onlyapolitewayoftakinghalf-a-crownfromthestrangers，astheyprobablydonotliketochargesomuchforasimplevise!
STAYINBERLIN——RETURNTOVIENNA
IhaveneverseenatownmorebeautifullyorregularlybuiltthanBerlin，——Imean，thetownofBerlinitself，——onlythefineststreets，palaces，andsquaresofCopenhagenwouldbearacomparisonwithit。
Ispentbutafewdayshere，andhadthereforescarcelytimetoseethemostremarkableandinterestingsights。
Thesplendidroyalpalace，theextensivebuildingsforthepicture-
galleryandmuseums，thegreatdome——allthesearesituatedveryneareachother。
TheDomechurchislargeandregularlybuilt；achapel，surroundedbyanironenclosure，standsateachsideoftheentrance。Severalkingsareburiedhere，andantiquatedsarcophagicovertheirremains，knownasthekings'graves。Nearthemstandsafinecast-
ironmonument，beneathwhichCountBrandenburglies。
TheCatholicchurchisbuiltinthestyleoftheRotundainRome；
but，unlikeit，thelightfallsfromwindowsmadearoundthewalls，andnotfromabove。Beautifulstatuesandasimplebuttastefulaltararetheonlyornamentsofthischurch。Theporticoisornamentedbybeautifulreliefs。
TheWerderchurchisamodernerection，builtintheGothicstyle，anditsturretsareornamentedbybeautifulbronzereliefs。Thewallsinsideareinlaidwithcolouredwooduptothegalleries，wheretheyterminateinGothicscroll-work。Theorganhasafull，cleartone；infrontofitstandsapaintingwhich，atfirstsight，resemblesascenefromheathenmythologymorethanasacredsubject。
Anumberofcupidssoaramongwreathsofflowers，andsurroundthreebeautifulfemalefigures。
Themintandthearchitecturalcollegestandnearthischurch。Theformeriscoveredwithfinesculptures；thelatterissquare，ofabrick-redcolour，withoutanyarchitecturalembellishment，andperfectlyresemblinganunusuallylargeprivatehouse。Theground-
flooristurnedintofineshops。
NearthepalaceliestheOperaSquare，inwhichstandthecelebratedopera-house，thearsenal，theuniversity，thelibrary，theacademy，theguardhouse，andseveralroyalpalaces。Threestatuesornamentthesquare:thoseofGeneralCountBulov，GeneralCountScharnhorst，andGeneralPrinceBlucher。Theyareallthreebeautifullysculptured，butthedraperydidnotpleaseme；itconsistedofthelongmilitaryclothcloak，which，openinginfront，affordedaglimpseofthesplendiduniforms。
ThearsenalisoneofthefinestbuildingsinBerlin，andformsasquare；atthetimeofmystaysomerepairswerebeingmade，sothatitwasclosed。Ihadtobecontentwithglimpsesthroughthewindowsofthefirstfloor，whichshowedmeimmensesaloonsfilledbytremendouscannons，rangedinrows。
Theguardhouseiscontiguous，andresemblesaprettytemple，withitsporticoofcolumns。
Theopera-houseformsalongdetachedsquare。Itwouldhaveamuchbettereffectiftheentranceswerenotsowretched。Theoneatthegrandportallookslikeanarrow，miserablechurch-door，lowandgloomy。Theotherentrancesareworsestill，andonewouldnotsupposethattheycouldleadtosuchasplendidinterior，whoseappointmentsareindescribablyluxuriousandcommodious。Thepitisfilledbyrowsofcomfortably-cushionedchairswithcushionedbacks，numbered，butnotbarred。Theboxesaredividedbyverylowpartitions，sothatthearistocraticworldseemstositonatribune。Theseatsinthepitandthefirstandsecondtiersarecoveredwithdark-redsilkdamask；theroyalboxisasplendidsaloon，thefloorofwhichiscoveredwiththefinestcarpets。
Beautifuloil-paintings，intastefulgoldframes，ornamenttheplafond；butthemagnificentchandelieristhegreatestcuriosity。
Itlookssomassivelyworkedinbronze，thatitispainfultoseetheheavymasshangsolooselyovertheheadsofthespectators。
Butitisonlyadelusion；foritismadeofpaste-board，andbronzedover。Innumerablelampslighttheplace；butonethingwhichImissinsuchelegantmoderntheatresisaclock，whichhasaplaceinnearlyeveryItaliantheatre。
Theotherbuildingsonthissquarearealsodistinguishedfortheirsizeandthebeautyoftheirarchitecture。
Anunusuallybroadstonebridge，withafinely-madeironbalustrade，isbuiltoveralittlearmoftheSpree，andunitesthesquareoftheoperawiththatonwhichthepalacestands。
Theroyalmuseumisoneofthefinestarchitecturalpiles，anditshighportaliscoveredwithbeautifulfrescoes。Thepicture-gallerycontainsmanychefs-d'oeuvre；andIregrettedthatIhadnotmoretimetoexamineitandthehallofantiquities，havingonlythreehoursforthetwo。
Fromtheacademyrunsalongstreetlinedwithlime-trees，andwhichisthereforecalledUnder-the-limesunterdenLinden。ThisalleyformsacheerfulwalktotheBrandenburg-gate，beyondwhichthepleasure-gardensaresituated。Thelongestandfineststreetswhichrunintothelime-alleyaretheFriedrichsStreetandtheWilhelmsStreet。TheLeipzigerStreetalsobelongstothefinest，butdoesnotrunintothispromenade。
TheGens-d'armeSquareisdistinguishedbytheFrenchandGermanchurches，atleastbytheirexterior，——bytheirhighdomes，columns，andporticoes。Theinteriorsaresmallandinsignificant。Onthissquarestandsalsotheroyaltheatre，atastefulpileofgreatbeauty，withmanypillars，andstatuesofmusesanddeities。
Iascendedthetoweronwhichthetelegraphworks，onaccountoftheviewoverthetownandtheflatneighbourhood。Averycivilofficialwaspoliteenoughtoexplainthesignsofthetelegraphtome，andtopermitmetolookattheothertelegraphsthroughhistelescope。
TheKonigstadt，situatedontheoppositeshoreoftheSpree，notfarfromtheroyalpalace，containsnothingremarkable。Itschiefstreet，theKonigsstrasse，islong，butnarrowanddirty。IndeeditformsagreatcontrasttothetownofBerlinineverything；thestreetsarenarrow，short，andwinding。Thepost-officeandthetheatresarethemostremarkablebuildings。
Theluxurydisplayedintheshop-windowsisverygreat。Manyamirrorandmanyaplate-glasswindowremindedmeofHamburgh'ssplendour，whichsurpassesthatofBerlinconsiderably。
TherearenotmanyexcursionsroundBerlin，asthecountryisflatandsandy。Themostinterestingaretothepleasure-gardens，Charlottenburg，and，sincetheopeningoftherailway，toPotsdam。
Theparkorpleasure-gardenisoutsidetheBrandenburg-gate；itisdividedintoseveralparts，oneofwhichremindedmeofourfinePraterinVienna。Thebeautifulalleyswerefilledwithcarriages，riders，andpedestrians；prettycoffee-housesenlivenedthewoodyportions，andmerrychildrengambolledonthegreenlawns。IfeltsomuchremindedofmybelovedPrater，thatIexpectedeverymomenttoseeawell-knownface，orreceiveafriendlygreeting。Kroll'sCasino，sometimescalledtheWinter-garden，isbuiltonthissideofthepark。Idonotknowhowtodescribethisbuilding；itisquiteafairypalace。Allthesplendourwhichfancycaninventinfurniture，gilding，painting，ortapestry，ishereunitedinthesplendidhalls，saloons，temples，galleries，andboxes。Thedining-
room，whichwilldine1800persons，isnotlightedbywindows，butbyaglassroofvaultedoverit。Rowsofpillarssupportthegalleries，orseparatethelargerandsmallersaloons。Intheniches，andinthecorners，roundthepillars，aboundfragrantflowers，andplantsinchastevasesorpots，whichtransformthisplaceintoamagicalgardeninwinter。ConcertsandreunionstakeplacehereeverySunday，andthepressofvisitorsisextraordinary，althoughsmokingisprohibited。Thisplacewillaccommodate5000
persons。
ThatsideoftheparkwhichliesinthedirectionofthePotsdam-
gateresemblesanornamentalgarden，withitswell-keptalleys，flower-beds，terraces，islets，andgold-fishponds。AhandsomemonumenttothememoryofQueenLouiseiserectedontheLouiseislandhere。
Onthisside，thecoffee-houseOdeonisthebest，butcannotbecomparedtoKroll'scasino。Herealsoarerowsofveryelegantcountry-houses，mostofwhicharebuiltintheItalianstyle。
CHARLOTTENBURG***DPPROOFEDANDCORRECTEDTOHERE***
Thisplaceisabouthalfanhour'sdistancefromtheBrandenburg-
gate，wheretheomnibusesthatdeparteveryminutearestationed。
Theroadleadsthroughthepark，beyondwhichliesaprettyvillage，andadjoiningitistheroyalcountry-palaceofCharlottenburg。Thepalaceisbuiltintwostories，ofwhichtheupperoneisverylow，andisprobablyonlyusedforthedomestics。Thepalaceismorebroadthandeep；theroofisterrace-shaped，andinitscentrerisesaprettydome。Thegardenissimple，andnotverylarge，butcontainsaconsiderableorangery。Inadarkgrovestandsalittlebuilding，themausoleuminwhichtheimageofQueenLouisehasbeenexcellentlyexecutedbythefamedartistRauch。Herealsoresttheashesofthelateking。Thereisalsoanislandwithstatuesinthemidstofalargepond，onwhichsomeswansfloatproudly。Itisapitythatdirtdoesnotsticktothesewhite-featheredanimals，elsetheywouldsoonbeblackswans；forthepondorriversurroundingtheislandisoneofthedirtiestditchesIhaveeverseen。
Fatiguewouldbeveryintolerableinthispark，forthereareveryfewbenches，butanimmensequantityofgnats。
POTSDAM。
ThedistancefromBerlintoPotsdamiseighteenmiles，whichispassedbytherailroadinthree-quartersofanhour。Therailwayisveryconvenientlyarranged；thecarriagesaremarkedwiththenamesofthestation，andthetravellerentersthecarriageonwhichtheplaceofhisdestinationismarked。Thus，thepassengersareneverannoyedbytheentranceorexitofpassengers，asalloccupyingthesamecarriagedescendatthesametime。
Theroadisveryuninteresting；butthisiscompensatedforbyPotsdamitself，forwhichadayisscarcelysufficient。
ImmediatelyinfrontofthetownflowstheriverHavel，crossedbyalong，beautifulbridge，whosepillarsareofstone，andtherestofthebridgeofiron。Thelargeroyalpalaceliesontheoppositeshore，andissurroundedbyagarden。Thegardenisnotveryextensive，butlargeenoughforthetown，andisopentothepublic。