AlittlecornerofUtahissoontraversed，andleavesnoparticularimpressionsonthemind。ByanearlyhouronWednesdaymorningwestoppedtobreakfastatToano，alittlestationonableak，high-
lyingplateauinNevada。Themanwhokeptthestationeating-housewasaScot，andlearningthatIwasthesame，hegrewveryfriendly，andgavemesomeadviceonthecountryIwasnowentering。"Yousee，"saidhe，"Itellyouthis，becauseIcomefromyourcountry。"Hail，britherScots!
Hismostimportanthintwasonthemoneysofthispartoftheworld。Thereissomethinginthesimplicityofadecimalcoinagewhichisrevoltingtothehumanmind；thustheFrench，insmallaffairs，reckonstrictlybyhalfpence；andyouhavetosolve，byaspasmofmentalarithmetic，suchposersasthirty-two，forty-five，orevenahundredhalfpence。InthePacificStatestheyhavemadeabolderpushforcomplexity，andsettletheiraffairsbyacointhatnolongerthatnolongerexists-theBIT，oroldMexicanreal。Thesupposedvalueofthebitistwelveandahalfcents，eighttothedollar。Whenitcomestotwobits，thequarter-dollarstandsfortherequiredamount。Buthowaboutanoddbit？Thenearestcointoitisadime，whichis，shortbyafifth。That，then，iscalledaSHORTbit。Ifyouhaveone，youlayittriumphantlydown，andsavetwoandahalfcents。Butifyouhavenot，andlaydownaquarter，thebar-keeperorshopmancalmlytendersyouadimebywayofchange；andthusyouhavepaidwhatiscalledaLONGBIT，andlosttwoandahalfcents，oreven，bycomparisonwithashortbit，fivecents。IncountryplacesalloverthePacificcoast，nothinglowerthanabitiseveraskedortaken，whichvastlyincreasesthecostoflife；asevenforaglassofbeeryoumustpayfivepenceorsevenpence-halfpenny，asthecasemaybe。Youwouldsaythatthissystemofmutualrobberywasasbroadasitwaslong；butIhavediscoveredaplantomakeitbroader，withwhichIhereendowthepublic。Itisbriefandsimple-radiantlysimple。Thereisoneplacewherefivecentsarerecognised，andthatisthepost-office。Aquarterisonlyworthtwobits，ashortandalong。Wheneveryouhaveaquarter，gotothepost-officeandbuyfivecentsworthofpostage-stamps；youwillreceiveinchangetwodimes，thatis，twoshortbits。Thepurchasingpowerofyourmoneyisundiminished。Youcangoandhaveyourtwoglassesofbeerallthesame；andyouhavemadeyourselfapresentoffivecentsworthofpostage-stampsintothebargain。BenjaminFranklinwouldhavepattedmeontheheadforthisdiscovery。
FromToanowetravelledalldaythroughdesertsofalkaliandsand，horribletoman，andbaresage-brushcountrythatseemedlittlekindlier，andcamebysupper-timetoElko。Aswewerestanding，afterourmanner，outsidethestation，Isawtwomenwhipsuddenlyfromunderneaththecars，andtaketotheirheelsacrosscountry。
Theyweretramps，itappeared，whohadbeenridingonthebeamssinceelevenofthenightbefore；andseveralofmyfellow-
passengershadalreadyseenandconversedwiththemwhilewebrokeourfastatToano。TheselandstowawaysplayagreatpartoverhereinAmerica，andIshouldhavelikeddearlytobecomeacquaintedwiththem。
AtElkoanoddcircumstancebefellme。Iwascomingoutfromsupper，whenIwasstoppedbyasmall，stout，ruddyman，followedbytwootherstallerandruddierthanhimself。
"Excuseme，sir，"hesaid，"butdoyouhappentobegoingon？"
IsaidIwas，whereuponhesaidhehopedtopersuademetodesistfromthatintention。Hehadasituationtoofferme，andifwecouldcometoterms，why，goodandwell。"Yousee，"hecontinued，"I'mrunningatheatrehere，andwe'realittleshortintheorchestra。You'reamusician，Iguess？"
Iassuredhimthat，beyondarudimentaryacquaintancewith"AuldLangSyne"and"TheWearingoftheGreen，"Ihadnopretensionwhatevertothatstyle。Heseemedmuchputoutofcountenance；andoneofhistallercompanionsaskedhim，onthenail，forfivedollars。
"Yousee，sir，"addedthelattertome，"hebetyouwereamusician；Ibetyouweren't。Nooffence，Ihope？"
"Nonewhatever，"Isaid，andthetwowithdrewtothebar，whereI
presumethedebtwasliquidated。
Thislittleadventurewokebrighthopesinmyfellow-travellers，whothoughttheyhadnowcometoacountrywheresituationswenta-
begging。ButIamnotsosurethattheofferwasingoodfaith。
Indeed，Iammorethanhalfpersuadeditwasbutafeelertodecidethebet。
OfallthenextdayIwilltellyounothing，forthebestofallreasons，thatIremembernomorethanthatwecontinuedthroughdesolateanddesertscenes，fieryhotanddeadlyweary。ButsometimeafterIhadfallenasleepthatnight，Iwasawakenedbyoneofmycompanions。ItwasinvainthatIresisted。Afireofenthusiasmandwhiskyburnedinhiseyes；andhedeclaredwewereinanewcountry，andImustcomeforthupontheplatformandseewithmyowneyes。Thetrainwasthen，initspatientway，standinghaltedinaby-track。Itwasaclear，moonlitnight；butthevalleywastoonarrowtoadmitthemoonshinedirect，andonlyadiffusedglimmerwhitenedthetallrocksandrelievedtheblacknessofthepines。Ahoarseclamourfilledtheair；itwasthecontinuousplungeofacascadesomewherenearathandamongthemountains。Theairstruckchill，buttastedgoodandvigorousinthenostrils-afine，dry，oldmountainatmosphere。Iwasdeadsleepy，butIreturnedtoroostwithagratefulmountainfeelingatmyheart。
WhenIawokenextmorning，Iwaspuzzledforawhiletoknowifitweredayornight，fortheilluminationwasunusual。Isatupatlast，andfoundweweregradingslowlydownwardthroughalongsnowshed；andsuddenlyweshotintoanopen；andbeforewewereswallowedintothenextlengthofwoodentunnel，Ihadoneglimpseofahugepine-forestedravineuponmyleft，afoamingriver，andaskyalreadycolouredwiththefiresofdawn。Iamusuallyverycalmoverthedisplaysofnature；butyouwillscarcebelievehowmyheartleapedatthis。Itwaslikemeetingone'swife。Ihadcomehomeagain-homefromunsightlydesertstothegreenandhabitablecornersoftheearth。Everyspireofpinealongthehill-top，everytroutypoolalongthatmountainriver，wasmoredeartomethanabloodrelation。FewpeoplehavepraisedGodmorehappilythanIdid。Andthenceforward，downbyBlueCanon，Alta，DutchFlat，andalltheoldminingcamps，throughaseaofmountainforests，droppingthousandsoffeettowardthefarsea-levelaswewent，notIonly，butallthepassengersonboard，threwofftheirsenseofdirtandheatandweariness，andbawledlikeschoolboys，andthrongedwithshiningeyesupontheplatformandbecamenewcreatureswithinandwithout。Thesunnolongeroppresseduswithheat，itonlyshonelaughinglyalongthemountain-side，untilwewerefaintolaughourselvesforglee。Ateveryturnwecouldseefartherintothelandandourownhappyfutures。Ateverytownthecocksweretossingtheirclearnotesintothegoldenair，andcrowingforthenewdayandthenewcountry。Forthiswasindeedourdestination；thiswas"thegoodcountry"wehadbeengoingtosolong。
ByafternoonwewereatSacramento，thecityofgardensinaplainofcorn；andthenextdaybeforethedawnwewerelyingtoupontheOaklandsideofSanFranciscoBay。Thedaywasbreakingaswecrossedtheferry；thefogwasrisingoverthecitiedhillsofSanFrancisco；thebaywasperfect-notaripple，scarceastain，uponitsblueexpanse；everythingwaswaiting，breathless，forthesun。
AspotofcloudygoldlitfirstupontheheadofTamalpais，andthenwideneddownwardonitsshapelyshoulder；theairseemedtoawaken，andbegantosparkle；andsuddenly"ThetallhillsTitandiscovered，"
andthecityofSanFrancisco，andthebayofgoldandcorn，werelitfromendtoendwithsummerdaylight。
[1879。]
CHAPTERII-THEOLDPACIFICCAPITAL
THEWOODSANDTHEPACIFIC
THEBayofMontereyhasbeencomparedbynolessapersonthanGeneralShermantoabentfishing-hook；andthecomparison，iflessimportantthanthemarchthroughGeorgia，stillshowstheeyeofasoldierfortopography。SantaCruzsitsexposedattheshank；themouthoftheSalinasriverisatthemiddleofthebend；andMontereyitselfiscosilyensconcedbesidethebarb。ThustheancientcapitalofCaliforniafacesacrossthebay，whilethePacificOcean，thoughhiddenbylowhillsandforest，bombardsherleftflankandrearwithnever-dyingsurf。Infrontofthetown，thelonglineofsea-beachtrendsnorthandnorth-west，andthenwestwardtoenclosethebay。ThewaveswhichlapsoquietlyaboutthejettiesofMontereygrowlouderandlargerinthedistance；youcanseethebreakersleapinghighandwhitebyday；atnight，theoutlineoftheshoreistracedintransparentsilverbythemoonlightandtheflyingfoam；andfromallround，eveninquietweather，thedistant，thrillingroarofthePacifichangsoverthecoastandtheadjacentcountrylikesmokeaboveabattle。
Theselongbeachesareenticingtotheidleman。Itwouldbehardtofindawalkmoresolitaryandatthesametimemoreexcitingtothemind。Crowdsofducksandsea-gullshoveroverthesea。
Sandpiperstrotinandoutbytroopsaftertheretiringwaves，trillingtogetherinachorusofinfinitesimalsong。Strangesea-
tangles，newtotheEuropeaneye，thebonesofwhales，orsometimesawholewhale'scarcase，whitewithcarrion-gullsandpoisoningthewind，liescatteredhereandtherealongthesands。Thewavescomeinslowly，vastandgreen，curvetheirtranslucentnecks，andburstwithasurprisinguproar，thatruns，waxingandwaning，upanddownthelongkey-boardofthebeach。Thefoamofthesegreatruinsmountsinaninstanttotheridgeofthesandglacis，swiftlyfleetsbackagain，andismetandburiedbythenextbreaker。Theinterestisperpetuallyfresh。OnnoothercoastthatIknowshallyouenjoy，incalm，sunnyweather，suchaspectacleofOcean'sgreatness，suchbeautyofchangingcolour，orsuchdegreesofthunderinthesound。TheveryairismorethanusuallysaltbythisHomericdeep。
Inshore，atractofsand-hillsbordersonthebeach。Hereandtherealagoon，moreorlessbrackish，attractsthebirdsandhunters。Arough，undergrowthpartiallyconcealsthesand。Thecrouching，hardylive-oaksflourishsinglyorinthickets-thekindofwoodformurdererstocrawlamong-andhereandtheretheskirtsoftheforestextenddownwardfromthehillswithafloorofturfandlongaislesofpine-treeshungwithSpaniard'sBeard。
ThroughthisquaintdeserttherailwaycarsdrewneartoMontereyfromthejunctionatSalinasCity-thoughthatandsomanyotherthingsarenowforeveraltered-anditwasfromherethatyouhadthefirstviewoftheoldtownshiplyinginthesands，itswhitewindmillsbickeringinthechill，perpetualwind，andthefirstfogsoftheeveningdrawingdrearilyarounditfromthesea。
Theonecommonnoteofallthiscountryisthehauntingpresenceoftheocean。Agreatfaintsoundofbreakersfollowsyouhighupintotheinlandcanons；theroarofwaterdwellsintheclean，emptyroomsofMontereyasinashelluponthechimney；gowhereyouwill，youhavebuttopauseandlistentohearthevoiceofthePacific。Youpassoutofthetowntothesouth-west，andmountthehillamongpine-woods。Glade，thicket，andgrovesurroundyou。
Youfollowwindingsandytracksthatleadnowhither。Youseeadeer；amultitudeofquailarises。Butthesoundoftheseastillfollowsyouasyouadvance，likethatofwindamongthetrees，onlyharsherandstrangertotheear；andwhenatlengthyougainthesummit，outbreaksoneveryhandandwithfreshenedvigourthatsameunending，distant，whisperingrumbleoftheocean；fornowyouareonthetopofMontereypeninsula，andthenoisenolongeronlymountstoyoufrombehindalongthebeachtowardsSantaCruz，butfromyourrightalso，roundbyChinatownandPinoslighthouse，andfromdownbeforeyoutothemouthoftheCarmelloriver。Thewholewoodlandisbegirtwiththunderingsurges。Thesilencethatimmediatelysurroundsyouwhereyoustandisnotsomuchbrokenasitishauntedbythisdistant，circlingrumour。Itsetsyoursensesuponedge；youstrainyourattention；youareclearlyandunusuallyconsciousofsmallsoundsnearathand；youwalklisteninglikeanIndianhunter；andthatvoiceofthePacificisasortofdisquietingcompanytoyouinyourwalk。
WhenonceIwasinthesewoodsIfounditdifficulttoturnhomeward。Allwoodslurearambleronward；butinthoseofMontereyitwasthesurfthatparticularlyinvitedmetoprolongmywalks。IwouldpushstraightfortheshorewhereIthoughtittobenearest。Indeed，therewasscarceadirectionthatwouldnot，soonerorlater，havebroughtmeforthonthePacific。Theemptinessofthewoodsgavemeasenseoffreedomanddiscoveryintheseexcursions。Ineverinallmyvisitsmetbutoneman。HewasaMexican，verydarkofhue，butsmilingandfat，andhecarriedanaxe，thoughhistruebusinessatthatmomentwastoseekforstrayingcattle。Iaskedhimwhato'clockitwas，butheseemedneithertoknownorcare；andwhenheinhisturnaskedmefornewsofhiscattle，Ishowedmyselfequallyindifferent。Westoodandsmileduponeachotherforafewseconds，andthenturnedwithoutawordandtookourseveralwaysacrosstheforest。
Oneday-Ishallneverforgetit-Ihadtakenatrailthatwasnewtome。Afterawhilethewoodsbegantoopen，theseatosoundnearerhand。Icameuponaroad，and，tomysurprise，astile。A
steportwofarther，and，withoutleavingthewoods，Ifoundmyselfamongtrimhouses。Iwalkedthroughstreetafterstreet，parallelandatrightangles，pavedwithswardanddottedwithtrees，butstillundeniablestreets，andeachwithitsnamepostedatthecorner，asinarealtown。Facingdownthemainthoroughfare-
"CentralAvenue，"asitwasticketed-Isawanopen-airtemple，withbenchesandsounding-board，asthoughforanorchestra。Thehouseswerealltightlyshuttered；therewasnosmoke，nosoundbutofthewaves，nomovingthing。Ihaveneverbeeninanyplacethatseemedsodreamlike。Pompeiiisallinabustlewithvisitors，anditsantiquityandstrangenessdeceivetheimagination；butthistownhadplainlynotbeenbuiltaboveayearortwo，andperhapshadbeendesertedovernight。Indeed，itwasnotsomuchlikeadesertedtownaslikeasceneuponthestagebydaylight，andwithnooneontheboards。Thebarkingofadogledmeatlasttotheonlyhousestilloccupied，whereaScotchpastorandhiswifepassthewinteraloneinthisemptytheatre。Theplacewas"ThePacificCampGrounds，theChristianSeasideResort。"Thither，inthewarmseason，crowdscometoenjoyalifeofteetotalism，religion，andflirtation，whichIamwillingtothinkblamelessandagreeable。
Theneighbourhoodatleastiswellselected。ThePacificboomsinfront。WestwardisPointPinos，withthelighthouseinawildernessofsand，whereyouwillfindthelightkeeperplayingthepiano，makingmodelsandbowsandarrows，studyingdawnandsunriseinamateuroil-painting，andwithadozenotherelegantpursuitsandintereststosurprisehisbrave，old-countryrivals。Totheeast，andstillnearer，youwillcomeuponaspaceofopendown，ahamlet，ahavenamongrocks，aworldofsurgeandscreamingsea-
gulls。Suchscenesareverysimilarindifferentclimates；theyappearhomelytotheeyesofall；tomethiswaslikeadozenspotsinScotland。Andyettheboatsthatrideinthehavenareofstrangeoutlandishdesign；and，ifyouwalkintothehamlet，youwillbeholdcostumesandfacesandhearatonguethatareunfamiliartothememory。Thejoss-stickburns，theopiumpipeissmoked，thefloorsarestrewnwithslipsofcolouredpaper-
prayers，youwouldsay，thathadsomehowmissedtheirdestination-
andamanguidinghisuprightpencilfromrighttoleftacrossthesheet，writeshomethenewsofMontereytotheCelestialEmpire。
ThewoodsandthePacificrulebetweenthemtheclimateofthisseaboardregion。OnthestreetsofMonterey，whentheairdoesnotsmellsaltfromtheone，itwillbeblowingperfumedfromtheresinoustree-topsoftheother。Fordaystogetherahot，dryairwilloverhangthetown，closeasfromanoven，yethealthfulandaromaticinthenostrils。Thecauseisnotfartoseek，forthewoodsareafire，andthehotwindisblowingfromthehills。ThesefiresareoneofthegreatdangersofCalifornia。IhaveseenfromMontereyasmanyasthreeatthesametime，bydayacloudofsmoke，bynightaredcoalofconflagrationinthedistance。A
littlethingwillstartthem，and，ifthewindbefavourable，theygallopovermilesofcountryfasterthanahorse。Theinhabitantsmustturnoutandworklikedemons，foritisnotonlythepleasantgrovesthataredestroyed；theclimateandthesoilareequallyatstake，andthesefirespreventtherainsofthenextwinteranddryupperennialfountains。Californiahasbeenalandofpromiseinitstime，likePalestine；butifthewoodscontinuesoswiftlytoperish，itmaybecome，likePalestine，alandofdesolation。
Tovisitthewoodswhiletheyarelanguidlyburningisastrangepieceofexperience。Thefirepassesthroughtheunderbrushatarun。Everyhereandthereatreeflaresupinstantaneouslyfromroottosummit，scatteringtuftsofflame，andisquenched，itseems，asquickly。Butthislastisonlyinsemblance。Forafterthisfirstsquib-likeconflagrationofthedrymossandtwigs，thereremainsbehindadeep-rootedandconsumingfireintheveryentrailsofthetree。Theresinofthepitch-pineisprincipallycondensedatthebaseoftheboleandinthespreadingroots。
Thus，afterthelight，showy，skirmishingflames，whichareonlyasthematchtotheexplosion，havealreadyscampereddownthewindintothedistance，thetrueharmisbutbeginningforthisgiantofthewoods。Youmayapproachthetreefromoneside，andseeitscorchedindeedfromtoptobottom，butapparentlysurvivoroftheperil。Makethecircuit，andthere，ontheothersideofthecolumn，isaclearmassoflivingcoal，spreadinglikeanulcer；
whileunderground，totheirmostextendedfibre，therootsarebeingeatenoutbyfire，andthesmokeisrisingthroughthefissurestothesurface。Alittlewhile，and，withoutanodofwarning，thehugepine-treesnapsoffshortacrossthegroundandfallsprostratewithacrash。Meanwhilethefirecontinuesitssilentbusiness；therootsarereducedtoafineash；andlongafterwards，ifyoupassby，youwillfindtheearthpiercedwithradiatinggalleries，andpreservingthedesignofallthesesubterraneanspurs，asthoughitwerethemouldforanewtreeinsteadoftheprintofanoldone。Thesepitch-pinesofMontereyare，withthesingleexceptionoftheMontereycypress，themostfantasticofforesttrees。Nowordscangiveanideaofthecontortionoftheirgrowth；theymightfigurewithoutchangeinacircleofthenetherhellasDantepicturedit；andattherateatwhichtreesgrow，andatwhichforestfiresspringupandgallopthroughthehillsofCalifornia，wemaylookforwardtoatimewhentherewillnotbeoneofthemleftstandinginthatlandoftheirnativity。Atleasttheyhavenotsomuchtofearfromtheaxe，butperishbywhatmaybecalledanaturalalthoughaviolentdeath；
whileitismaninhisshort-sightedgreedthatrobsthecountryofthenoblerredwood。YetalittlewhileandperhapsallthehillsofseaboardCaliforniamaybeasbaldasTamalpais。
Ihaveaninterestofmyownintheseforestfires，forIcamesoneartolynchingononeoccasion，thatabravermanmighthaveretainedathrillfromtheexperience。Iwishedtobecertainwhetheritwasthemoss，thatquaintfunerealornamentofCalifornianforests，whichblazedupsorapidlywhentheflamefirsttouchedthetree。IsupposeImusthavebeenundertheinfluenceofSatan，forinsteadofpluckingoffapieceformyexperimentwhatshouldIdobutwalkuptoagreatpine-treeinaportionofthewoodwhichhadescapedsomuchasscorching，strikeamatch，andapplytheflamegingerlytooneofthetassels。Thetreewentoffsimplylikearocket；inthreesecondsitwasaroaringpillaroffire。ClosebyIcouldheartheshoutsofthosewhowereatworkcombatingtheoriginalconflagration。Icouldseethewaggonthathadbroughtthemtiedtoaliveoakinapieceofopen；Icouldevencatchtheflashofanaxeasitswungupthroughtheunderwoodintothesunlight。Hadanyoneobservedtheresultofmyexperimentmyneckwasliterallynotworthapinchofsnuff；
afterafewminutesofpassionateexpostulationIshouldhavebeenrunuptoconvenientbough。
Todieforfactionisacommonevil；
Buttobehangedfornonsenseisthedevil。
Ihaverunrepeatedly，butneverasIranthatday。AtnightI
wentoutoftown，andtherewasmyownparticularfire，quitedistinctfromtheother，andburningasIthoughtwithevengreatervigour。
ButitisthePacificthatexercisesthemostdirectandobviouspowerupontheclimate。Atsunset，formonthstogether，vast，wet，melancholyfogsariseandcomeshorewardfromtheocean。Fromthehill-topaboveMontereythesceneisoftennoble，althoughitisalwayssad。Theupperairisstillbrightwithsunlight；aglowstillrestsupontheGabelanoPeak；butthefogsareinpossessionofthelowerlevels；theycrawlinscarvesamongthesandhills；