Alps and Sanctuaries of Piedmont and the Canton Ti_第1章

　　Fortheconvenienceofavoidingexplanations，Ihavetreatedtheeventsofseveralsummersasthoughtheybelongedtoonlyone。
　　Thiscanbeofnoimportancetothereader，butastheworkischronologicallyinexact，Ihadbetterperhapssayso。
　　TheillustrationsbyMr。H。F。Jonesareonpages95，211，225，238，254，260。Thefrontispieceandtheillustrationsonthetitle-pageandonpages261，262arebyMr。CharlesGogin。Therearetwodrawingsonpages136，137byanItaliangentlemanwhosenameIhaveunfortunatelylost，andwhosepermissiontoinsertthemIhave，therefore，beenunabletoobtain，andoneonpage138bySignorGaetanoMeo。Therestaremine，exceptthatallthefiguresinmydrawingsareineverycasebyMr。CharlesGogin，unlesswhentheyaremerelycopiedfromfrescoesorothersources。ThetwolargerviewsofOropaarechieflytakenfromphotographs。Therestareallofthemfromstudiestakenuponthespot。
　　ImustacknowledgethegreatobligationsIamundertoMr。H。F。
　　Jonesasregardstheletterpressnolessthantheillustrations；I
　　mightalmostsaythatthebookisnearlyasmuchhisasmine，whileitisonlythroughthecarewhichheandanotherfriendhaveexercisedintherevisionofmypagesthatIamabletoletthemappearwithsomeapproachtoconfidence。
　　November，1881。
　　CHAPTERI——IntroductionMostmenwillreadilyadmitthatthetwopoetswhohavethegreatestholdoverEnglishmenareHandelandShakespeare——foritisasapoet，asympathiserwithandrendererofallestatesandconditionswhetherofmenorthings，ratherthanasameremusician，thatHandelreignssupreme。TherehavebeenmanywhohaveknownasmuchEnglishasShakespeare，andso，doubtless，therehavebeennofewerwhohaveknownasmuchmusicasHandel:perhapsBach，probablyHaydn，certainlyMozart；aslikelyasnot，manyaknownandunknownmusiciannowliving；butthepoetisnotknownbyknowledgealone——notbygnosisonly——butalso，andingreaterpart，bytheagapewhichmakeshimwishtostealmen'shearts，andpromptshimsotoapplyhisknowledgethatheshallsucceed。
　　TherehasbeennoonetotouchHandelasanobserverofallthatwasobservable，aloverofallthatwasloveable，ahaterofallthatwashateable，and，therefore，asapoet。Shakespearelovednotwiselybuttoowell。HandellovedaswellasShakespeare，butmorewisely。HeisasmuchaboveShakespeareasShakespeareisaboveallothers，exceptHandelhimself；heisnolesslofty，impassioned，tender，andfullalikeoffireandloveofplay；heisnolessuniversalintherangeofhissympathies，nolessamasterofexpressionandillustrationthanShakespeare，andatthesametimeheisofrobuster，strongerfibre，moreeasy，lessintrospective。Englishmenareofsomixedarace，soinventive，andsogiventomigration，thatformanygenerationstocometheyareboundtobeattimespuzzled，andthereforeintrospective；
　　iftheygettheirfreedomatalltheygetitasShakespeare"withagreatsum，"whereasHandelwas"freeborn。"Shakespearesometimeserrsandgrievously，heisasoneofhisownbestmen"mouldedoutoffaults，"who"forthemostbecomemuchmorethebetter，forbeingalittlebad；"Handel，ifheputsforthhisstrengthatall，isunerring:hegainsthemaximumofeffectwiththeminimumofeffort。AsMozartsaidofhim，"hebeatsusallineffect，whenhechooseshestrikeslikeathunderbolt。"Shakespeare'sstrengthisperfectedinweakness；Handelistheserenityandunself-
　　consciousnessofhealthitself。"There，"saidBeethovenonhisdeathbed，pointingtotheworksofHandel，"there——istruth。"
　　These，however，aredetails，themainpointthatwillbeadmittedisthattheaverageEnglishmanismoreattractedbyHandelandShakespearethanbyanyothertwomenwhohavebeenlongenoughdeadforustohaveformedafairlypermanentverdictconcerningthem。WenotonlybelievethemtohavebeenthebestmenfamiliarlyknownhereinEngland，butweseeforeignnationsjoinusforthemostpartinassigningtothemthehighestplaceasrenderersofemotion。
　　Itisalwaysapleasuretometoreflectthatthecountriesdearesttothesetwomasterspiritsarethosewhicharealsodearesttomyself，ImeanEnglandandItaly。BothofthemlivedmainlyhereinLondon，butbothofthemturnedmainlytoItalywhenrealisingtheirdreams。Handel'smusicistheembodimentofallthebestItalianmusicofhistimeandbeforehim，assimilatedandreproducedwiththeenlargementsandadditionssuggestedbyhisowngenius。HestudiedinItaly；hissubjectsformanyyearswerealmostexclusivelyfromItaliansources；theverylanguageofhisthoughtswasItalian，andtotheendofhislifehewouldhavecomposednothingbutItalianoperas，iftheEnglishpublicwouldhavesupportedhim。HisspiritflewtoItaly，buthishomewasLondon。SoalsoShakespeareturnedtoItalymorethantoanyothercountryforhissubjects。Roughly，hewrotenineteenItalian，orwhattohimwerevirtuallyItalianplays，totwelveEnglish，oneScotch，oneDanish，threeFrench，andtwoearlyBritish。
　　ButwhodoesnotturntoItalywhohasthechanceofdoingso？
　　What，indeed，dowenotowetothatmostlovelyandloveablecountry？TakeupaBankofEnglandnoteandtheItalianlanguagewillbefoundstilllingeringuponit。Itissigned"forBankofEnglandandCompa。"Compagnia，not"Compy。"OurlawsareRomanintheirorigin。Ourmusic，aswehaveseen，andourpaintingcomesfromItaly。Ourveryreligiontillafewhundredyearsagofounditsheadquarters，notinLondonnorinCanterbury，butinRome。What，infact，istherewhichhasnotfilteredthroughItaly，eventhoughitaroseelsewhere？Ontheotherhand，thereareinfiniteattractionsinLondon。Ihaveseenmanyforeigncities，butIknownonesocommodious，or，letmeadd，sobeautiful。IknowofnothinginanyforeigncityequaltotheviewdownFleetStreet，walkingalongthenorthsidefromthecornerofFetterLane。ItisoftensaidthatthishasbeenspoiledbytheLondon，Chatham，andDoverRailwaybridgeoverLudgateHill；I
　　think，however，theeffectismoreimposingnowthanitwasbeforethebridgewasbuilt。Timehasalreadysoftenedit；itdoesnotobtrudeitself；itaddsgreatlytothesenseofsize，andmakesusdoublyawareofthemovementoflife，thecolossalcirculationtowhichLondonowessomuchofitsimpressiveness。Wegainmorebythisthanwelosebytheinfractionofsomepedant'scanonabouttheartisticallycorrectintersectionofrightlines。Vastasistheworldbelowthebridge，thereisavasterstillonhigh，andwhentrainsarepassing，thesteamfromtheenginewillthrowthedomeofSt。Paul'sintotheclouds，andmakeitseemasthoughtherewereacomminglingofearthandsomefar-offmysteriouspalaceindreamland。IamnotveryfondofMilton，butIadmitthathedoesattimesputmeinmindofFleetStreet。
　　WhileonthesubjectofFleetStreet，Iwouldputinawordinfavourofthemuch-abusedgriffin。ThewholemonumentisoneofthehandsomestinLondon。Asforitsbeinganobstruction，Ihavediscoursedwithalargenumberofomnibusconductorsonthesubject，andamsatisfiedthattheobstructionisimaginary。
　　When，again，IthinkofWaterlooBridge，andthehugewide-openedjawsofthosetwoBehemoths，theCannonStreetandCharingCrossrailwaystations，IamnotsurethattheprospecthereisnotevenfinerthaninFleetStreet。Seehowtheybelchforthpuffingtrainsasthebreathoftheirnostrils，gorginganddisgorgingincessantlythosehumanatomswhosemovementisthelifeofthecity。Howlikeitallistosomegreatbodilymechanismofwhichthepeoplearetheblood。Andthen，aboveall，seetheineffableSt。Paul's。IwasonceonWaterlooBridgeafteraheavythunderstorminsummer。Athickdarknesswasupontheriverandthebuildingsuponthenorthside，butjustbelowIcouldseethewaterhurryingonwardasinanabyss，dark，gloomy，andmysterious。
　　Onalevelwiththeeyetherewasanabsoluteblank，butabove，theskywasclear，andoutofthegloomthedomeandtowersofSt。
　　Paul'sroseupsharply，lookinghigherthantheyactuallywere，andasthoughtheyresteduponspace。
　　Thenasfortheneighbourhoodwithin，wewillsay，aradiusofthirtymiles。Itisoneofthemainbusinessesofmylifetoexplorethisdistrict。Ihavewalkedseveralthousandsofmilesindoingso，andImarkwhereIhavebeeninredupontheOrdnancemap，sothatImayseeataglancewhatpartsIknowleastwell，anddirectmyattentiontothemassoonaspossible。FortenmonthsintheyearIcontinuemywalksinthehomecounties，everyweekaddingsomenewvillageorfarmhousetomylistofthingsworthseeing；andnomatterwhereelseImayhavebeen，IfindacharminthevillagesofKent，Surrey，andSussex，whichinitswayIknownotwheretorival。
　　Ihaveventuredtosaytheabove，becauseduringtheremainderofmybookIshallbeoccupiedalmostexclusivelywithItaly，andwishtomakeitclearthatmyItalianramblesaretakennotbecauseI
　　preferItalytoEngland，butasbywayofparergon，orby-work，aseverymanshouldhavebothhisprofessionandhishobby。IhavechosenItalyasmysecondcountry，andwoulddedicatethisbooktoherasathank-offeringforthehappinessshehasaffordedme。
　　CHAPTERII——FaidoForsomeyearspastIhavepaidavisitofgreaterorlesslengthtoFaidointheCantonTicino，whichthoughpoliticallySwissisasmuchItalianincharacterasanypartofItaly。Iwasattractedtothisplace，inthefirstinstance，chieflybecauseitisoneoftheeasiestplacesontheItaliansideoftheAlpstoreachfromEngland。Thismerititwillsoonpossessinastillgreaterdegree，forwhentheSt。Gothardtunnelisopen，itwillbepossibletoleaveLondon，wewillsay，onaMondaymorningandbeatFaidobysixorseveno'clockthenextevening，justasonecannowdowithS。AmbrogioonthelinebetweenSusaandTurin，ofwhichmorehereafter。
　　True，bymakinguseofthetunnelonewillmisstheSt。Gothardscenery，butIwouldnot，ifIwerethereader，laythistoomuchtoheart。Mountainscenery，whenoneisstayingrightinthemiddleofit，orwhenoneisonfoot，isonething，andmountainsceneryasseenfromthetopofadiligenceverylikelysmotheredindustisanother。BesidesIdonotthinkhewillliketheSt。
　　Gothardsceneryverymuch。
　　Itisapitythereisnomentalmicroscopetoshowusourlikesanddislikeswhiletheyareyettoovaguetobemadeouteasily。Wearesoapttoletimaginarylikingsrunawaywithus，asapersonatthefarendofCannonStreetrailwayplatform，ifheexpectsafriendtojoinhim，willseethatfriendinhalftheimpossiblepeoplewhoarecomingthroughthewicket。Ioncebegananessayon"TheArtofKnowingwhatgivesonePleasure，"butsoonfoundmyselfoutofthediatonicwithit，inallmannerofstrangekeys，amidamazeofmetaphysicalaccidentalsanddoubleandtrebleflats，soI
　　leftitaloneasaquestionnotworththetroubleitseemedlikelytotakeinanswering。Itislikeeverythingelse，ifwemuchwanttoknowourownmindonanyparticularpoint，wemaybetrustedtodevelopthefacultywhichwillrevealittous，andifwedonotgreatlycareaboutknowing，itdoesnotmuchmatterifweremaininignorance。Butinfewcasescanwegetatourpermanentlikingwithoutatleastasmuchexperienceasafishmongermusthavehadbeforehecanchooseatoncethebestbloateroutoftwentywhich，toinexperiencedeyes，seemoneasgoodastheother。LordBeaconsfieldwasathoroughErasmusDarwinianwhenhesaidsowellin"Endymion":"Thereisnothinglikewill；everybodycandoexactlywhattheylikeinthisworld，providedtheyreallylikeit。
　　Sometimestheythinktheydo，butingeneralit'samistake。"{1}
　　IfthisisastrueasIbelieveittobe，"thelongingafterimmortality，"thoughnotindeedmuchofanargumentinfavourofourbeingimmortalatthepresentmoment，isperfectlysoundasareasonforconcludingthatweshallonedaydevelopimmortality，ifourdesireisdeepenoughandlastingenough。Asforknowingwhetherornotonelikesapicture，whichunderthepresentaestheticreignofterrorisderigueur，Ionceheardamansaytheonlytestwastoaskone'sselfwhetheronewouldcaretolookatitifonewasquitesurethatonewasalone；IhaveneverbeenabletogetbeyondthistestwiththeSt。Gothardscenery，andapplyingittotheDevil'sBridge，Ishouldsayastayofaboutthirtysecondswouldbeenoughforme。IdaresayMendelssohnwouldhavestayedatleasttwohoursattheDevil'sBridge，butthenhedidstaysuchalongwhilebeforethings。
　　ThecomingoutfromtheshorttunnelontotheplainofAndermattdoescertainlygivethepleasureofasurprise。IshallneverforgetcomingoutofthistunnelonedaylateinNovember，andfindingthewholeAndermattvalleyinbrilliantsunshine，thoughfromFluelenuptotheDevil'sBridgethecloudshadhungheavyandlow。Itwasoneofthemoststrikingtransformationscenesimaginable。Thetopofthepassisgood，andtheHotelProsaacomfortableinntostayat。Idonotknowwhetherthishousewillbediscontinuedwhentherailwayisopened，butunderstandthattheproprietorhastakenthelargehotelatPiora，whichIwillspeakoflateron。ThedescentontheItaliansideisimpressive，andsoisthepointwheresightisfirstcaughtofthevalleybelowAirolo，butonthewholeIcannotseethattheSt。GothardisbetterthantheS。BernardinoontheItalianside，ortheLukmanier，nearthetop，ontheGerman；thislastisoneofthemostbeautifulthingsimaginable，butitshouldbeseenbyonewhoistravellingtowardsGermanSwitzerland，andinafinesummer'seveninglight。IwasnevermoreimpressedbytheSt。GothardthanontheoccasionalreadyreferredtowhenIcrosseditinwinter。
　　WewentinsledgesfromHospenthaltoAirolo，andIrememberthinkingwhatsplendidfellowsthepostillionsandguardsandmenwhohelpedtoshifttheluggageontothesledges，looked；theyweresoruddyandstrongandfullofhealth，asindeedtheymightwellbe——livinganactiveoutdoorlifeinsuchanair；besides，theywerepickedmen，forthepassageinwinterisneverwithoutpossibledangers。Itwasdelightfultravellinginthesledge。Theskywasofadeepblue；therewasnotasinglecloudeitherinskyoronmountain，butthesnowwasalreadydeep，andhadcoveredeverythingbeneathitssmoothandheavingbosom。Therewasnobreathofair，butthecoldwasintense；presentlythesunsetuponallexceptthehigherpeaks，andthebroadshadowsstoleupwards。
　　Thentherewasarichcrimsonflushuponthemountaintops，andafterthisapallorcoldandghastlyasdeath。Ifheisfortunateinhisday，IdonotthinkanyonewillbesorrytohavecrossedtheSt。Gothardinmid-winter；butonepasswilldoaswellasanother。
　　Airolo，atthefootofthepassontheItalianside，was，tilllately，aquietandbeautifulvillage，risingfromamonggreatgreenslopes，whichinearlysummerarecoveredwithinnumerableflowers。Theplace，however，isnowquitechanged。TherailwayhasturnedthewholeValLeventinatopsy-turvy，andaltereditalmostbeyondrecognition。Whenthelineisfinishedandtheworkmenhavegoneelsewhere，thingswillgetrightagain；butjustnowthereisanexplosivenessaboutthevalleywhichpuzzlesonewhohasbeenfamiliarwithitsformerquietness。Airolohasbeenespeciallyrevolutionised，beingtheheadquartersfortheworksupontheItaliansideofthegreatSt。Gothardtunnel，asGoschenenisforthoseontheGermanside；besidesthis，itwasburntdowntwoorthreeyearsago，hardlyoneofthehousesbeingleftstanding，sothatitisnowanewtown，andhaslostitsformerpicturesqueness，butitwillbenotabadplacetostayatassoonasthebustleoftheworkshassubsided，andthereisagoodhotel——
　　theHotelAirolo。Itliesnearly4000feetabovethesea，sothateveninsummertheairiscool。Thereareplentyofdelightfulwalks——toPiora，forexample，uptheValCanaria，andtoBedretto。
　　AfterleavingAirolotheroaddescendsrapidlyforafewhundredfeetandthenmoreslowlyforfourorfivekilometrestoPiotta。
　　HerethefirstsignsoftheItalianspiritappearinthewoodcarvingofsomeofthehouses。ItiswiththesehousesthatI
　　alwaysconsidermyselfasinItalyagain。ThencomeRoncoonthemountainsidetotheleft，andQuinto；allthewaythepasturesarethicklycoveredwithcowslips，evenfinerthanthosethatgrowonSalisburyPlain。Afewkilometresfartheronandsightiscaughtofabeautifulgreenhillwithafewnaturalterracesuponitandaflattop——risingfromamidpastures，andbackedbyhigherhillsasgreenasitself。OnthetopofthishilltherestandsawhitechurchwithanelegantLombardcampanile——thecampanileleftunwhitewashed。ThewholeformsalovelylittlebitoflandscapesuchassomeoldVenetianpaintermighthavechosenasabackgroundforaMadonna。
　　ThisplaceiscalledPrato。AfteritispassedtheroadentersatonceupontheMontePiottinogorge，whichisbetterthantheDevil'sBridge，butnotsomuchtomytasteastheauriculasandrhododendronswhichgrowupontherocksthatflankit。Thepeep，however，atthehamletofVigera，caughtthroughtheopeningofthegorge，isverynice。SoonaftercrossingthesecondoftheMontePiottinobridgesthefirstchestnutsarereached，orratherweresotillayearago，whentheywereallcutdowntomakeroomforsomeconstructioninconnectionwiththerailway。Acoupleofkilometresfartheronandmulberriesandoccasionalfig-treesbegintoappear。OnthiswefindourselvesatFaido，thefirstplaceupontheItaliansidewhichcanbecalledatown，butwhichafterallishardlymorethanavillage。
　　Faidoisapicturesqueoldplace。Ithasseveralhousesdatedthemiddleofthesixteenthcentury；andthereisone，formerlyaconvent，closetotheHoteldell'Angelo，whichmustbestillolder。Thereisabrewerywhereexcellentbeerismade，asgoodasthatofChiavenna——andamonasterywhereafewmonksstillcontinuetoreside。Thetownis2365feetabovethesea，andisnevertoohotevenintheheightofsummer。TheAngeloistheprincipalhotelofthetown，andwillbefoundthoroughlycomfortableandinallrespectsadesirableplacetostayat。Ihavestayedtheresooften，andconsiderthewholefamilyofitsproprietorsomuchamongthenumberofmyfriends，thatIhavenohesitationincordiallyrecommendingthehouse。
　　OtherattractionsIdonotknowthattheactualtownpossesses，buttheneighbourhoodisrich。Yearsago，intravellingbytheSt。
　　Gothardroad，Ihadnoticedthemanylittlevillagesperchedhighuponthesidesofthemountain，fromonetotwothousandfeetabovetheriver，andhadwonderedwhatsortofplacestheywouldbe。Iresolved，therefore，afteratimetomakeastayatFaidoandgouptoallofthem。Icarriedoutmyintention，andthereisnotavillagenorfractionofavillageintheValLeventinafromAirolotoBiascawhichIhavenotinspected。Inevertireofthem，andtheonlyregretIfeelconcerningthemis，thatthegreaternumberareinaccessibleexceptonfoot，sothatIdonotseehowI
　　shallbeabletoreachthemifIlivetobeold。ThesearetheplacesofwhichIdofindmyselfcontinuallythinkingwhenIamawayfromthem。ImayaddthattheValLeventinaismuchthesameaseveryothersubalpinevalleyontheItaliansideoftheAlpsthatIhaveyetseen。
　　IhadnoparticularaversiontoGermanSwitzerlandbeforeIknewtheItaliansideoftheAlps。Onthecontrary，IwasundertheimpressionthatIlikedGermanSwitzerlandalmostasmuchasI
　　likedItalyitself，butnowIcanlookatGermanSwitzerlandnolonger。AssoonasIseethewatergoingdownRhinewardsIhurrybacktoLondon。IwasunwillinglycompelledtotakepleasureinthefirsthourandahalfofthedescentfromthetopoftheLukmaniertowardsDisentis，butthisisonlyarippingoverofthebrimfulnessofItalyontotheSwissside。
　　ThefirstplaceItriedfromFaidowasMairengo——wherethereistheoldestchurchinthevalley——achurcholdereventhanthechurchofSt。NicolaoofGiornico。Thereislittleoftheoriginalstructure，buttherarepeculiarityremainsthattherearetwohighaltarssidebyside。
　　Thereisafinehalf-coveredtimberporchtothechurch。Theseporchesarerare，theonlyotherslikeitIknowofbeingatPrato，Rossura，andtosomeextentCornone。Ineachofthesecasesthearrangementisdifferent，theonlyagreementbeinginthehavinganoutershelteredplace，fromwhichthechurchisenteredinsteadofopeningdirectlyontothechurchyard。Mairengoisfullofgoodbits，andnestlesamongmagnificentchestnut-trees。FromhenceI
　　wenttoOsco，about3800feetabovethesea，and1430aboveFaido。
　　ItwashereIfirstcametounderstandthepurposeofcertainhighpoleswithcrossbarstothemwhichIhadalreadyseenelsewhere。
　　Theyarefordryingthebarleyon；assoonasitiscutitishunguponthecrossbarsandsecuredinthiswayfromtherain，butitisobviousthiscanonlybedonewhencultivationisonasmallscale。Theserascane，astheyarecalled，areafeatureoftheValLeventina，andlookverywellwhentheyarefullofbarley。
　　FromOscoItriedtocoastalongtoCalpiognia，butwaswarnedthatthepathwasdangerous，andfoundittobeso。IthereforeagaindescendedtoMairengo，andre-ascendedbyapathwhichwentstraightupbehindthevillage。AfteratimeIgotuptothelevelofCalpiognia，ornearlyso，andfoundapaththroughpinewoodswhichledmeacrossatorrentinaravinetoCalpiogniaitself。
　　Thispathisverybeautiful。WhileonitIcaughtsightofalovelyvillagenestlingonaplateauthatnowshoweditselfhighupontheothersidethevalleyoftheTicino，perhapsacoupleofmilesoffasthecrowflies。ThisIfounduponinquirytobeDalpe；aboveDalperosepinewoodsandpastures；thentheloftieralpi，thenruggedprecipices，andabovealltheDalpeglacierroseatewithsunset。Iwasenchanted，anditwasonlybecausenightwascomingon，andIhadalongwaytodescendbeforegettingbacktoFaido，thatIcouldgetmyselfaway。IpassedthroughCalpiognia，andthoughtheduskwasdeepening，IcouldnotforbearfrompausingattheCampoSantojustoutsidethevillage。Igiveasketchtakenbydaylight，butneithersketchnorwordscangiveanyideaofthepathosoftheplace。WhenIsawitfirstitwasinthemonthofJune，andtherankdandelionswereinseed。Wildrosesinfullbloom，greatdaisies，andthenever-failingsalviaranriotamongthegraves。LookingoverthechurchyarditselftherewerethepurplemountainsofBiascaandthevalleyoftheTicinosomecoupleofthousandfeetbelow。TherewasnosoundsavethesubduedbutceaselessroaroftheTicino，andthePiumogna。InvoluntarilyIfoundthefollowingpassagefromthe"Messiah"soundinginmyears，andfeltasthoughHandel，whoinhistravelsasayoungmandoubtlesssawsuchplaces，mighthavehadoneoftheminhismindwhenhewrotethedivinemusicwhichhehasweddedtothewords"ofthemthatsleep。"{2}
　　[Atthispointinthebookamusicscoreisgiven]
　　Oragain:{3}
　　[Atthispointinthebookamusicscoreisgiven]
　　FromCalpiogniaIcamedowntoPrimadengo，andthencetoFaido。
　　CHAPTERIII——Primadengo，Calpiognia，Dalpe，Cornone，andPratoNextmorningIthoughtIwouldgouptoCalpiogniaagain。ItwasSunday。WhenIgotuptoPrimadengoIsawnoone，andheardnothing，savealwaysthesoundofdistantwaterfalls；allwasspaciousandfullofwhatMr。Ruskinhascalleda"greatpeacefulnessoflight。"Thevillagewassoquietthatitseemedasthoughitweredeserted；afteraminuteorso，however，Iheardacherryfall，andlookingup，sawthetreeswerefullofpeople。
　　Theretheywere，crawlingandlollingaboutontheboughslikecaterpillars，andgorgingthemselveswithcherries。Theyspokenotawordeithertomeortooneanother。Theyweretoohappyandgoodlytomakeanoise；buttheylayaboutonthelargebranches，andateandsighedforcontentandatetilltheycouldeatnolonger。Lotuseatingwasaroughnerve-jarringbusinessincomparison。TheywerelikesaintsandevangelistsbyFilippoLippi。AgaintherenderingofHandelcameintomymind，andI
　　thoughtofhowthegoodlyfellowshipofprophetspraisedGod。{4}
　　[Atthispointinthebookamusicscoreisgiven]
　　AndhowagaininsomesuchanotherquietecstasythemusessingaboutJove'saltarinthe"AllegroandPenseroso。"
　　HereisasketchofPrimadengoChurch——lookingoveritontotheothersidetheTicino，butIcouldnotgetthecherry-treesnorcherry-eaters。
　　OnleavingPrimadengoIwentontoCalpiognia，andtheretooI
　　foundthechildren'sfacesallpurplewithcherryjuice；thenceI
　　ascendedtillIgottoamonte，orcollectionofchalets，about5680feetabovethesea。Itwasdesertedatthisseason。I
　　mountedfartherandreachedanalpe，whereamanandaboyweretendingamobofcalves。Goingstillhigher，Iatlastcameuponasmalllakeclosetothetopoftherange:Ifindthislakegiveninthemapasabout7400feetabovethesea。Here，beingmorethan5000feetaboveFaido，Istoppedanddined。
　　Ihavespokenofamonteandofanalpe。Analpe，oralp，isnot，assomanypeopleinEnglandthink，asnowymountain。MontBlancandtheJungfrau，forexample，arenotalps。Theyaremountainswithalpsuponthem。
　　Analpeisatractofthehighestsummerpasturagejustbelowthesnow-line，andonlycapableofbeinggrazedfortwoorthreemonthsineveryyear。Itisheldascommonlandbyoneormorevillagesintheimmediateneighbourhood，andsometimesbyasingleindividualtowhomthevillagehassoldit。Afewmenandboysattendthewholeherd，whetherofcattleorgoats，andmakethecheese，whichisapportionedoutamongtheownersofthecattlelateron。Thepigsgouptobefattenedonwhey。Thecheeseisnotcommonlymadeatthealpe，butassoonasthecurdhasbeenpressedclearofwhey，itissentdownonmen'sbackstothevillagetobemadeintocheese。Sometimestherewillbealittlehaygrownonanalpe，asatGribbioandinPiora；inthiscasetherewillbesomechaletsbuilt，whichwillbeinhabitedforafewweeksandleftemptytherestoftheyear。
　　Themonteisthepasturelandimmediatelyabovethehighestenclosedmeadowsandbelowthealpe。Thecattlearekepthereinspringandautumnbeforeandaftertheirvisittothealpe。Themontehasmanyhouses，dairies，andcowhouses，——beingalmostthepaese，orvillage，inminiature。Itwillalwayshaveitschapel，andisinhabitedbysoconsiderableanumberofthevillagers，forsolongatimebothinspringandautumn，thattheyfinditworthwhiletomakethemselvesmorecomfortablethanisnecessaryforthefewwhomaketheshortsummervisittothealpe。
　　Everyinchoftheascentwasgood，butthedescentwasevenbetteronaccountoftheviewsoftheDalpeglacierontheothersidetheTicino，towardswhichonesbackisturnedasoneascends。AlldaylongthevillagesofDalpeandCornonehadbeentemptingme，soI
　　resolvedtotakethemnextday。ThisIdid，crossingtheTicinoandfollowingabroadwell-beatenpathwhichascendsthemountainsinasoutherlydirection。IfoundtherareEnglishfernWoodsiahyperboreagrowingingreatluxurianceontherocksbetweenthepathandtheriver。Isawsomefrondsfullysixinchesinlength。
　　IalsofoundonespecimenofAspleniumalternifolium，which，however，isabundantontheothersidethevalley，onthewallsthatflankthepathbetweenPrimadengoandCalpiognia，andelsewhere。WoodsiaalsogrowsontheroadsidewallsnearAirolo，butnotsofineasatFaido。IhaveoftenlookedforitinothersubalpinevalleysofNorthItalyandthecantonTicino，buthaveneverhappenedtolightuponit。
　　Aboutthreeorfourhundredfeetabovetheriver，undersomepines，Isawastringofantscrossingandrecrossingtheroad；Ihavesinceseentheseantseveryyearinthesameplace。InonepartI
　　almostthinkthestoneisalittlewornwiththedailypassageandrepassageofsomanythousandsoftinyfeet，butforthemostpartitcertainlyisnot。Half-an-hourorsoaftercrossingthestringofants，onepassesfromunderthepine-treesintoagrassymeadow，whichinspringisdeckedwithallmannerofAlpineflowers；aftercrossingthis，theoldSt。Gothardroadisreached，whichpassedbyPratoandDalpe，soastoavoidthegorgeoftheMontePiottino。
　　Thisroadisofverygreatantiquity，andhasbeenlongdisused，exceptforlocalpurposes；forevenbeforethecarriageroadovertheSt。Gothardwasfinishedin1827，therewasahorsetrackthroughtheMontePiottino。Inanothertwentyminutesorso，oncomingoutfromawoodofwillowsandalders，Dalpeisseencloseathandafterawalkoffromanhour-and-a-halftotwohoursfromFaido。
　　Dalpeisrathermorethan1500feetaboveFaido，andisthereforenearly4000feetabovethesea。Itisreckonedabelpaese，inasmuchasithasalittletolerablylevelpastureandtillablelandnearit，andafinealpe。Thisishowthewealthofavillageisreckoned。TheItalianssetgreatstorebyalittlebitofbellapianura，orlevelground；tothemitisaspreciousasahillorrockistoaLondoneroutforaholiday。ThepeasantryareasblindtothebeautiesofroughunmanageablelandasPeterBellwastothoseoftheprimrosewithayellowbrimIquotefrommemory。
　　ThepeoplecomplainoftheclimateofDalpe，thesnownotgoingoffbeforetheendofMarchorbeginningofApril。Noclimate，theysay，shouldbecolderthanthatofFaido；barley，however，andpotatoesdoverywellatDalpe，andnothingcanexceedthehaycrops。AgooddealofthehayissentdowntoFaidoonmen'sbacksorratherontheirheads，fortheroadisimpracticableevenforsledges。Itisastonishingwhataweightthemenwillbearupontheirheads，andtherateatwhichtheywillcomedownwhileloaded。Anaverageloadisfourhundredweight。Themanishardlyvisiblebeneathhisburden，whichlookslikeagoodbigpartofanordinaryEnglishhaystack。Withthisweightonhisheadhewillgodownroughplacesalmostatarunandnevermisshisfooting。Themengenerallycarrythehaydowninthreesandfourstogetherforcompany。Theylookdistressed，aswelltheymay:everymuscleisstrained，anditiseasytoseethattheirpowersarebeingtaxedtotheirutmostlimit；itisbetternoteventosaygood-daytothemwhentheyarethusloaded；theyhaveenoughtoattendtojustthen；nevertheless，assoonastheyhavedepositedtheirloadatFaidotheywillgouptoDalpeagainorCalpiognia，orwhereveritmaybe，foranother，andbringitdownwithoutresting。Twosuchjourneysarereckonedenoughforoneday。Thisishowthepeoplegettheircorpodilegnoegambadiferro——"theirbodiesofwoodandlegsofiron。"ButIthinktheyratheroverdoit。
　　Talkingoflegs，asIwentthroughthemainstreetofDalpeanoldladyofaboutsixty-fivestoppedme，andtoldmethatwhilegatheringherwinterstoreoffirewoodshehadhadthemisfortunetohurtherleg。Iwasverysorry，butIfailedtosatisfyher；
　　themoreIsympathisedingeneralterms，themoreIfeltthatsomethingfurtherwasexpectedofme。Iwentontryingtodothecivilthing，whentheoldladycutmeshortbysayingitwouldbemuchbetterifIweretoseethelegatonce；sosheshoweditmeinthestreet，andthere，sureenough，closetothegrointherewasaswelling。AgainIsaidhowsorryIwas，andaddedthatperhapssheoughttoshowittoamedicalman。"Butaren'tyouamedicalman？"saidsheinanalarmedmanner。"Certainlynot，"repliedI。
　　"Thenwhydidyouletmeshowyoumyleg？"saidsheindignantly，andpullingherclothesdown，thepooroldwomanbegantohobbleoff；presentlytwoothersjoinedher，andIheardheartypealsoflaughterassherecountedherstory。Astrangervisitingtheseout-of-the-wayvillagesisalmostcertaintobemistakenforadoctor。Whatbusiness，theysaytothemselves，cananyoneelsehavethere，andwhoinhissenseswoulddreamofvisitingthemforpleasure？Thisoldladyhadrushedtotheusualconclusion，andhadbeentryingtogetalittleadvicegratis。
　　AboveDalpethereisapaththroughtheuppervalleyofthePiumogna，whichleadstotheglacierwhencetherivercomes。Thehighestpeakabovethisuppervalleyjustturnsthe10，000feet，butIwasneverabletofindoutthatithasaname，noristhereanamemarkedintheOrdnancemapoftheCantonTicino。Thevalleypromiseswell，butIhavenotbeentoitshead，whereatabout7400
　　feetthereisasmalllake。GreatquantitiesofcrystalsarefoundinthemountainsaboveDalpe。Somepeoplemakealivingbycollectingthesefromthehigherpartsoftherangeswherenonebutbornmountaineersandchamoiscanventure；many，again，emigratetoParis，London，America，orelsewhere，andreturneitherforamonthortwo，orsometimesforapermanency，havingbecomerich。InCornonethereisonelargewhitenewhousebelongingtoamanwhohasmadehisfortunenearComo，andinallthesevillagestherearesimilarhouses。FromtheValLeventinaandtheValBlenio，butmoreespeciallyfromthislast，verylargenumberscometoLondon，whilehardlyfewergotoAmerica。SignorGatti，thegreaticemerchant，camefromtheValBlenio。
　　Ioncefoundthewords，"Tommy，makeroomforyouruncle，"onachapeloutsidethewallsofoneveryquietlittleuplandhamlet。
　　Thewritingwasinachild'sscrawl，andinlikefashionwithallelsethatwaswrittenonthesamewall。Ishouldhavebeenmuchsurprised，ifIhadnotalreadyfoundouthowmanyfamiliesreturntothesepartswithchildrentowhomEnglishisthenativelanguage。ManyasarethevillagesintheCantonTicinoinwhichI
　　havesatsketchingforhourstogether，IhaverarelydonesowithoutbeingaccostedsoonerorlaterbysomeonewhocouldspeakEnglish，eitherwithanAmericanaccentorwithoutit。Itiscuriousatsomeout-of-the-wayplacehighupamongthemountains，toseealotofchildrenatplay，andtohearoneofthemshoutout，"Marietta，ifyoudothatagain，I'llgoandtellmother。"
　　OneEnglishwordhasbecomeuniversallyadoptedbytheTicinesithemselves。Theysay"waitee"justasweshouldsay"wait，"tostopsomeonefromgoingaway。Itisabhorrenttothemtoendawordwithaconsonant，sotheyhaveadded"ee，"buttherecanbenodoubtabouttheoriginoftheword。{5}
　　Whenwebearinmindthetendencyofanylanguage，ifitonceattainsacertainpredominance，tosupplantallothers，andwhenwelookatthemapoftheworldandseetheextentnowinthehandsofthetwoEnglish-speakingnations，IthinkitmaybeprophesiedthatthelanguageinwhichthisbookiswrittenwillonedaybealmostasfamiliartothegreaternumberofTicinesiastheirown。
　　Imaymentiononeotherexpressionwhich，thoughnotderivedfromEnglish，hasacuriousanalogytoanEnglishusage。WhenthebeautifulchildrenwithnameslikeHandel'soperascomeroundonewhileoneissketching，someoneofthemwillassuredlybeforelongbeheardtowhisperthewords"Tiragiu，"oraschildrensaywhentheycomeroundoneinEngland，"Heisdrawingitdown。"Thefundamentalideais，ofcourse，thatthedraughtsmandragstheobjectwhichheisdrawingawayfromitsposition，and"transfers"
　　it，aswesaybythesamemetaphor，tohispaper，asSt。Cecilia"drewanangeldown"in"Alexander'sFeast。"
　　AgoodwalkfromDalpeistotheAlpediCampolungoandFusio，butitisbettertakenfromFusio。AveryfavouritepathwithmeistheoneleadingconjointlyfromCornoneandDalpetoPrato。TheviewupthevalleyoftheSt。GothardlookingdownonPratoisfine；Igiveasketchofittakenfiveyearsagobeforetherailwayhadbeenbegun。
　　Thelittleobjectslookinglikesentryboxesthatgoallroundthechurchcontainroughmodernfrescoes，representing，ifIrememberrightly，theeventsattendantupontheCrucifixion。TheseareonasmallscalewhatthechapelsonthesacredmountainofVaralloareonalargeone。SmallsingleoratoriesarescatteredaboutallovertheCantonTicino，andindeedeverywhereinNorthItalybytheroadside，atallhalting-places，andespeciallyatthecrestofanymoremarkedascent，wherethetiredwayfarer，probablyheavyladen，mightbeinclinedtosayanaughtywordortwoifnotchecked。Thepeoplelikethem，andmissthemwhentheycometoEngland。Theysometimesdowhattheloweranimalsdoinconfinementwhenprecludedfromhabitstheyareaccustomedto，andputupwithstrangemakeshiftsbywayofsubstitute。IoncesawapoorTicinesewomankneelinginprayerbeforeadentist'sshow-caseintheHampsteadRoad；shedoubtlessmistooktheteethfortherelicsofsomesaint。Iamafraidshewasalittlelikeahensittinguponachalkegg，butsheseemedquitecontented。
　　Whichofus，indeed，doesnotsitcontentedlyenoughuponchalkeggsattimes？Andwhatwouldlifebebutforthepowertodoso？
　　Wedonotsufficientlyrealisethepartwhichillusionhasplayedinourdevelopment。Oneoftheprimerequisitesforevolutionisacertainpowerforadaptationtovaryingcircumstances，thatistosay，ofplasticity，bodilyandmental。Butthepowerofadaptationismainlydependentonthepowerofthinkingcertainnewthingssufficientlylikecertainotherstowhichwehavebeenaccustomedforusnottobetoomuchincommodedbythechange——uponthepower，infact，ofmistakingthenewfortheold。Thepoweroffusingideasandthroughideas，structuresdependsuponthepowerofconfusingthem；thepowertoconfuseideasthatarenotveryunlike，andthatarepresentedtousinimmediatesequence，ismainlyduetothefactoftheimpetus，sotospeak，whichthemindhasuponit。Wealways，Ibelieve，makeanefforttoseeeverynewobjectasarepetitionoftheobjectlastbeforeus。Objectsaresovaried，andpresentthemselvessorapidly，thatasageneralrulewerenouncethisefforttoopromptlytonoticeit，butitisalwaysthere，anditisbecauseofitthatweareabletomistake，andhencetoevolvenewmentalandbodilydevelopments。Wheretheeffortissuccessful，thereisillusion；wherenearlysuccessfulbutnotquite，thereisashockandasenseofbeingpuzzled——moreorless，asthecasemaybe；whereitissoobviouslyimpossibleasnottobepursued，thereisnoperceptionoftheeffortatall。
　　Mr。Lockehasbeengreatlypraisedforhisessayuponhumanunderstanding。Anessayonhumanmisunderstandingshouldbenolessinterestingandimportant。Illusiontoasmallextentisoneofthemaincauses，ifindeeditisnotthemaincause，ofprogress，butitmustbeuponasmallscale。Allabortivespeculation，whethercommercialorphilosophical，isbaseduponit，andmuchaswemayabusesuchspeculation，weare，allofus，itsdebtors。
　　LeonardodaVincisaysthatSandroBotticellispokeslightinglyoflandscape-painting，andcalledit"butavainstudy，sincebythrowingaspongeimpregnatedwithvariouscoloursagainstawall，itleavessomespotsuponit，whichmayappearlikealandscape。"
　　LeonardodaVincicontinues:"Itistruethatavarietyofcompositionsmaybeseeninsuchspotsaccordingtothedispositionofmindwithwhichtheyareconsidered；suchasheadsofmen，variousanimals，battles，rockyscenes，seas，clouds，words，andthelike。Itmaybecomparedtothesoundofbellswhichmayseemtosaywhateverwechoosetoimagine。Inthesamemannerthesespotsmayfurnishhintsforcomposition，thoughtheydonotteachushowtofinishanyparticularpart。"{6}NoonecanhatedrunkennessmorethanIdo，butIamconfidentthehumanintellectowesitssuperiorityoverthatoftheloweranimalsingreatmeasuretothestimuluswhichalcoholhasgiventoimagination——
　　imaginationbeinglittleelsethananothernameforillusion。Asforwaysidechapels，mine，whenIaminLondon，aretheshopwindowswithprettythingsinthem。
　　TheflowersontheslopesabovePratoarewonderful，andthevillageisfullofnicebitsforsketching，butthebestthing，tomyfancy，isthechurch，andthewayitstands，andthelovelycoveredporchthroughwhichitisentered。Thisporchisnotstrikingfromtheoutside，butItooktwosketchesofitfromwithin。Thereis，also，afresco，halffinished，ofSt。GeorgeandtheDragon，probablyofthefifteenthcentury，andnotwithoutfeeling。Thereisnotmuchinsidethechurch，whichismodernisedandmorerecentthanthetower。Thetowerisverygood，andonlysecond，ifsecond，intheupperLeventinatothatofQuinto，which，however，isnotnearlysowellplaced。
　　ThepeopleofPratoarejustasfondofcherriesasthoseofPrimadengo，butIdidnotseeanymeninthetrees。ThechildreninthesepartsarethemostbeautifulandmostfascinatingthatI
　　knowanywhere；theyhaveblackmouthsallthroughthemonthofJulyfromthequantitiesofcherriesthattheydevour。Icanbearwitnessthattheyareirresistible，foronekindoldgentleman，seeingmepaintingnearhishouse，usedtobringmedailyabranchofacherry-treewithallthecherriesonit。"Sonpiccole，"hewouldsay，"masongustose"——"Theyaresmall，buttasty，"whichindeedtheywere。SeeingIateallhegaveme——fortherewasnostoppingshortaslongasasinglecherrywasleft——he，daybyday，increasedthesizeofthebranch，butnomatterhowmanyhebroughtIwasalwaysevenwithhim。Ididmybesttostophimfrombringingthem，ormyselffromeatingallofthem，butitwasnouse。
　　[Autographwhichcannotbereproduced:TlolindaDelPietro]
　　Hereistheautographofoneofthelittleblack-mouthedfolk。I
　　watchthemgrowingupfromyeartoyearinmanyavillage。IwassketchingatPrimadengo，andalittlegirlofaboutthreeyearscameupwithherbrother，aboyofperhapseight。Beforelongthesmallerchildbegantosethercapatme，smiling，ogling，andshowingallhertrickslikeanaccomplishedlittleflirt。Herbrothersaid，"Shealwaysgoesonlikethattostrangers。"Isaid，"What'shername？""Forolinda。"Thenamebeingnewtome，Imadetheboywriteit，andhereitis。HehasforgottentocrosshisF，butthewritingiswonderfullygoodforaboyofhisage。Thechild'sname，doubtless，isFlorinda。
　　MorethanonceatPrato，andoftenelsewhere，peoplehavewantedtobuymysketches:ifIhadnotrequiredthemformyownuseImighthavesoldagoodmany。Idonotthinkmypatronsintendedgivingmorethanfourorfivefrancsasketch，butaquickworker，whocouldcoverhisthreeorfourFortunypanelsaday，mightpayhisexpenses。ItoftenhappensthatpeoplewhoaredoingwellinLondonorParisarepayingavisittotheirnativevillage，andliketotakebacksomethingtoremindthemofitinthewinter。
　　FromPrato，therearetwowaystoFaido，onepastanoldcastle，builttodefendthenorthernentranceoftheMontePiottino，andsooverasmallpasswhichwillavoidthegorge；andtheother，byDazioandtheMontePiottinogorge。Botharegood。
　　CHAPTERIV——Rossura，CalonicoAnotherdayIwentuptoRossura，avillagethatcanbeseenfromthewindowsoftheHoteldell'Angelo，andwhichstandsabout3500
　　feetabovethesea，oralittlemorethan1100feetaboveFaido。
　　Thepathtoitpassesalongsomemeadows，fromwhichthechurchofCalonicocanbeseenonthetopofitsrockssomefewmilesoff。
　　Byandbyatorrentisreached，andtheascentbeginsinearnest。
　　WhenthelevelofRossurahasbeennearlyattained，thepathturnsoffintomeadowstotheright，andcontinues——occasionallyundermagnificentchestnuts——tillonecomestoRossura。

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