Itneversomuchasoccurredtohertomindbeingcaughtatthiswork。
Somemonthslater，shortlybeforewinter，Ireturnedtothesameinnforafewdays，andfounditsomewhatdemoralised。Therehadbeengranddoingsofsomesort，and，thoughthedoingswereover，themoralandmaterialdebriswerenotyetquiteremoved。ThefamigliaBonvicinowasgone，andsowasCricco。Thecook，thenewwaiter，andthelandlordwhosingsagoodcomicsonguponoccasionhadalldrunkasmuchwineastheycouldcarry；andlateronIfoundVeneranda，theone-eyedoldchambermaid，lyinguponmybedfastasleep。Iafterwardsheardthat，inspiteoftheautumnalweather，thelandlordspenthisnightonthegrassunderthechestnuts，whilethecookwasfoundatfouro'clockinthemorninglyingatfulllengthuponatableundertheveranda。Nextday，however，allhadbecomenormalagain。
Amongourfellow-guestsduringthisvisitwasafiery-facedeructivebutcherfromTurin。Adifferenceofopinionhavingarisenbetweenhimandhiswife，ItoldtheSignorathatIwouldratherbewrongwithherthanrightwithherhusband。Theladywasdelighted。
"Doyouhearthat，mydear？"saidshe。"Hesayshehadratherbewrongwithmethanrightwithyou。Isn'theanaughtyman？"
Shesaidthatifshediedherhusbandwasgoingtomarryagirloffifteen。Isaid:"Andifyourhusbanddies，ma'am，sendmeadispatchtoLondon，andIwillcomeandmarryyoumyself。"Theywerebothdelightedatthis。
Shetoldusthethunderhadupsetherandfrightenedher。
"Hasitgivenyouaheadache？"
Shereplied:No；butithadupsetherstomach。Nodoubtthethunderhadshakenherstomach'sconfidenceinthesoundnessofitsopinions，soastoweakenitsproselytisingpower。Byandby，seeingthatsheateaprettygooddinner，Iinquired:
"Isyourstomachbetternow，ma'am？"
Andshesaiditwas。Nextdaymystomachwasbadtoo。
ItoldherIhadbeenmarried，buthadlostmywifeandhaddeterminednevertomarryagaintillIcouldfindawidowwhomI
hadadmiredasamarriedwoman。
Giovanni，thenewwaiter，explainedtomethatthebutcherwasnotreallybadorcruelatall。IshookmyheadathimandsaidI
wishedIcouldthinkso，butthathispoorwifelookedveryillandunhappy。
Thehousemaid'snamewasLaRosaMistica。
Thelandlordwasafavouritewithalltheguests。Everyonepattedhimonthecheeksorthehead，orchuckedhimunderthechin，ordidsomethingniceandfriendlyathim。Hewasalittlemanwithafacelikearussetpippinapple，aboutsixty-fiveyearsold，butmadeofiron。Hewasgoingtomarryathirdwife，andsixyoungwomenhadalreadycomeupfromS。Ambrogiotobelookedat。Isawoneofthem。ShewasaVisigoth-lookingsortofpersonandworealargewobbly-brimmedstrawhat；shewasaboutforty，andgavemetheimpressionofbeingfamiliarwithlabourofallkinds。Hepressedmetogivemyopinionofher，butIsneakedoutofitbydeclaringthatImustseeagooddealmoreoftheladythanIwaseverlikelytoseebeforeIcouldformanopinionatall。
OncomingdownfromthesanctuaryoneafternoonIheardthelandlord'scomicsong，ofwhichIhavespokenabove。Itwasaboutthemusicalinstrumentsinaband:thetrumpetdidthis，theclarinetdidthat，theflutewenttootle，tootle，tootle，andtherewasanappropriatemotionofthehandforeveryinstrument。Iwasalittledisappointedwithit，butthelandlordsaidIwastooseriousandtheonlythingthatwouldcuremewastolearnthesongmyself。Hesaidthebutcherhadlearneditalready，soitwasnothard，whichindeeditwasnot。Itwasaboutashardas:
ThebattleoftheNileIwasthereallthewhileAtthebattleoftheNile。
IhadtolearnitandsingitHeavenhelpme，forIhavenomorevoicethanamouse!，andthelandlordsaidthatthemotionofmylittlefingerwasverypromising。
Thechestnutsareneverbetterthanafterharvest，whentheyareheavy-ladenwiththeirpalegreenhedgehog-likefruitandalivewithpeopleswarmingamongtheirbranches，pruningthemwhiletheleavesarestillgoodwinterfoodforcattle。Why，Iwonder，istheresuchanespecialcharmaboutthepruningoftrees？Whodoesnotfeelit？Nomatterwhatthetreeis，thepoplarofFrance，orthebrooksidewilloworoakcoppiceofEngland，orthechestnutsormulberriesofItaly，allareinterestingwhenbeingpruned，orwhenprunedjustlately。Afriendonceconsultedmecasuallyaboutapictureonwhichhewasatwork，andcomplainedthatarowoftreesinitwaswithoutsufficientinterest。Iwasfortunateenoughtobeabletohelphimbysaying:"Prunethemfreelyandputamagpie'snestinoneofthem，"andthetreesbecameinterestingatonce。Peopleintreesalwayslookwell，orrather，Ishouldsay，treesalwayslookwellwithpeopleinthem，orindeedwithanylivingthinginthem，especiallywhenitisofakindthatisnotcommonlyseeninthem；andthemeasuredlopofthebill-hookand，byandby，theclickasaboughbreaksandthelazycrashasitfallsoverontotheground，areaspleasingtotheearasisthebough-bestrewnherbagetotheeye。
Towhatheightandtowhatslenderboughsdonotthesehardyclimberstrustthemselves。Itissaidthatthecomingmanistobetoeless。Iwillventureforitthathewillnotbetoelessifthesechestnut-pruningmenandwomenhavemuchtodowithhisdevelopment。Lettheraceprunechestnutsforacoupleofhundredgenerationsorso，anditwillhavelittletroublewithitstoes。
Ofcourse，theprunersfallsometimes，butveryrarely。IrememberintheValMastalloneseeingavotivepictureofapoorladyinashortpetticoatandtrouserstrimmedwithredroundthebottomwhowasfallingheadforemostfromthetopofahightree，whoseleavesshehadbeenpicking，andwasbeingsavedbytheinterventionoftwosaintswhocaughtherupontwogridirons。Suchaccidents，however，and，Ishouldthink，suchinterventions，areexceedinglyrare，andasarulethepeasantsventurefreelyintoplaceswhichinEnglandnoonebutasailororasteeple-jackwouldattempt。
AndsoweleftthispartofItaly，wishingthatmoreHugodeMontboissiershadcommittedmorecrimesandhadhadtoexpiatethembybuildingmoresanctuaries。
CHAPTERXI——LanzoFromS。AmbrogiowewenttoTurin，acitysowellknownthatIneednotdescribeit。TheHotelEuropaisthebest，and，indeed，oneofthebesthotelsonthecontinent。Nothingcanexceeditforcomfortandgoodcookery。Thegalleryofoldmasterscontainssomegreatgems。EspeciallyremarkablearetwopicturesofTobiasandtheangel，byAntonioPollaiuoloandSandroBotticelli；andamagnificenttemperapaintingoftheCrucifixion，byGaudenzioFerrari——oneofhisveryfinestworks。Therearealsoseveralotherpicturesbythesamemaster，buttheCrucifixionisthebest。
FromTurinIwentalonetoLanzo，aboutanhourandahalf'srailwayjourneyfromTurin，andfoundacomfortableinn，theHoteldelaPoste。Thereisafinefourteenth-centurytowerhere，andthegeneraleffectofthetownisgood。
OnemorningwhileIwasgettingmybreakfast，Englishfashion，withsomecutletstoaccompanymybreadandbutter，IsawanelderlyItaliangentleman，withhishanduptohischin，eyeingmewiththoughtfulinterest。Afteratimehebrokesilence。
"Edillatte，"hesaid，"serveperlasuppa。"{21}
Isaidthatthatwastheviewwetookofit。Hethoughtitoverawhile，andthenfeelinglyexclaimed-
"Ohbel!"
Soonafterwardsheleftmewiththewords-
"La!dunque!cerrea!chow!stiabene。"
"La"isaverycommonclosetoanItalianconversation。Iusedtobealittleafraidofitatfirst。Itsoundsratherlikesaying，"There，that'sthat。PleasetobearinmindthatItalkedtoyouverynicely，andletyouboremeforalongtime；IthinkIhavenowdonethethinghandsomely，soyou'llbegoodenoughtoscoremeoneandletmego。"ButIsoonfoundoutthatitwasquiteafriendlyandcivilwayofsayinggood-bye。
The"dunque"issofter；itseemstosay，"Icannotbringmyselftosaysosadawordas'farewell，'butwemustbothofusknowthatthetimehascomeforustopart，andso"-
"Cerrea"isanabbreviationandcorruptionof"disuaSignoria，"——
"byyourhighness'sleave。""Chow"Ihaveexplainedalready。
"Stiabene"issimply"farewell。"
TheprincipalpiazzaofLanzoisnice。Intheupperpartofthetownthereisalargeschoolorcollege。Onecanseeintotheschoolthroughagratingfromtheroad。Ilookeddown，andsawthattheboyshadcuttheirnamesalloverthedesks，justasEnglishboyswoulddo。Theywereverymerryandnoisy，andthoughtherewasaprieststandingatoneendoftheroom，heletthemdomuchastheyliked，andtheyseemedquitehappy。Iheardoneboyshoutouttoanother，"Nonc'epericolo，"inanswertosomethingtheotherhadsaid。Thisisexactlythe"nofear"ofAmericaandthecolonies。Neartheschoolthereisafieldontheslopeofthehillwhichcommandsaviewovertheplain。
Awomanwasmowingthere，and，bywayofmakingmyselfagreeable，Iremarkedthattheviewwasfine。"Yes，itis，"sheanswered；"youcanseeallthetrains。"
ThebasketswithwhichthepeoplecarrythingsinthisneighbourhoodareofadifferentconstructionfromanyIhaveseenelsewhere。Theyaremadetofitallroundtheheadlikesomethingbetweenasaddleandahelmet，andatthesametimetorestupontheshoulders——theheadbeing，asitwere，ensaddledbythebasket，andtheweightbeingsupportedbytheshouldersaswellasbythehead。Whyisitthatsuchcontrivancesasthisshouldprevailinonevalleyandnotinanother？If，oneistemptedtoargue，theplanisaconvenientone，whydoesitnotspreadfurther？Ifinconvenient，whyhasitspreadsofar？IfitisgoodinthevalleyoftheStura，whyisitnotalsogoodinthecontiguousvalleyoftheDora？Theremustbeplaceswherepeopleusinghelmet-madebasketslivenextdoortopeoplewhousebasketsthatareborneentirelybybackandshoulders。Whydonotthepeopleinoneorotherofthesehousesadopttheirneighbour'sbasket？Notbecausepeoplearenotamenabletoconviction，forwithinacertainradiusfromthesourceoftheinventiontheyareconvincedtoaman。Noragainisitfromanyinsuperableobjectiontoachangeofhabit。TheSturapeoplehavechangedtheirhabit——possiblyfortheworse；butiftheyhavechangeditfortheworse，howisittheydonotfinditoutandchangeagain？
Take，again，thepaneGrissino，fromwhichtheneighbourhoodofTurinhasderiveditsnicknameofilGrissinotto。Itismadeinlongsticks，ratherthickerthanatobaccopipe，andeatscrispliketoast。ItisalmostuniversallypreferredtoordinarybreadbytheinhabitantsofwhatwasformerlyPiedmont，butbeyondtheselimitsitisrarelyseen。Whyso？Eitheritisgoodornotgood。
Ifnotgood，howhasitprevailedoversolargeanarea？Ifgood，whydoesitnotextenditsempire？TheReformationisanothercaseinpoint:grantedthatProtestantismisillogical，howisitthatsofewwithinagivenareacanperceiveittobeso？Thesamequestionarisesinrespectofthedistributionofmanyplantsandanimals；thereasonofthelimitswhichsomeofthemcannotpass，being，indeed，perfectlyclear，butasregardsperhapsthegreaternumberofthem，undiscoverable。Theupshotofitisthatthingsdonotinpracticefindtheirperfectlevelanymorethanwaterdoesso，butareliabletodisturbancebywayoftidesandlocalcurrents，orstorms。Itisinhispowertoperceiveandprofitbytheseirregularitiesthatthestrengthorweaknessofacommercialmanwillbeapparent，OnedayImadeanexcursionfromLanzotoaplace，thenameofwhichIcannotremember，butwhichisnotfarfromtheGroscavalloglacier。HereIfoundseveralItaliansstayingtotaketheair，andamongthemoneyounggentleman，whotoldmehewaswritingabookuponthisneighbourhood，andwasgoingtoillustrateitwithhisowndrawings。Thisnaturallyinterestedme，andIencouragedhimtotellmemore，whichhewasnothinglothtodo。Hesaidhehadapassionfordrawing，andwasmakingrapidprogress；buttherewasonethingthatheldhimback——thenothavinganyContechalk:
ifhehadbutthis，allhisdifficultieswouldvanish。
UnfortunatelyIhadnoContechalkwithme，IbutIaskedtoseethedrawings，andwasshownabouttwenty，allofwhichgreatlypleasedme。Iatonceproposedanexchange，andhavethusbecomepossessedofthetwowhichIreproducehere。Beingpencildrawings，andnotdonewithaviewtoMr。Dawson'sprocess，theyhavesufferedsomewhatinreproduction，butIdecidedtoletthemsufferratherthanattempttocopythem。Whatcanbemoreabsolutelyinthespiritofthefourteenthcenturythanthedrawingsgivenabove？Theyseemasthoughdonebysomefourteenth-
centurypainterwhohadrisenfromthedead。Andtoshowthattheyarenorareaccident，Iwillgiveanotherp。138，alsodonebyanentirelyself-taughtItalian，andintendedtorepresentthecastleofLaurenzanaintheneighbourhoodofPotenza。
Ifthereaderwillpardonadigression，Iwillrefertoamoreimportantexampleofanoldmasterbornoutofduetime。Oneday，inthecathedralatVarallo，IsawapicturepaintedonlinenofwhichIcouldmakenothing。Itwasnotoldanditwasnotmodern。
TheexpressionoftheVirgin'sfacewaslovely，andtherewasmoreindividualitythaniscommonlyfoundinmodernItalianwork。
ModernItaliancolourisgenerallyeithercoldanddirty，orelsestaring。Thecolourherewastender，andremindedmeoffifteenth-
centuryFlorentinework。Thefoldsofthedraperywerenotmodern；
therewasasenseofeffortaboutthem，asthoughthepainterhadtriedtodothembetter，buthadbeenunabletogetthemasfreeandflowingashehadwished。Yetthepicturewasnotold；toallappearanceitmighthavebeenpaintedamatteroftenyears；noragainwasitanecho——itwasasound:thearchaismwasnotaffected；onthecontrary，therewassomethingwhichsaid，asplainlyasthoughthelivingpainterhadspokenit，thathissomewhatconstrainedtreatmentwasduesimplytohishavingbeenpuzzledwiththeintricacyofwhathesaw，andgivingasmuchashecouldwithahandwhichwaslessadvancedthanhisjudgment。Bysomestrangelawitcomesaboutthattheimperfectionofmenwhoareatthisstageofanyartistheonlytrueperfection；forthewisdomofthewiseissetatnaught，andthefoolishnessofthesimpleischosen，anditisoutofthemouthsofbabesandsucklingsthatstrengthisordained。
Unabletoarriveatanyconclusion，Iaskedthesacristan，andwastolditwasbyacertainDedomeniciofRossa，intheValSesia，andthatithadbeenpaintedsomefortyorfiftyyearsago。I
expressedmysurprise，andthesacristancontinued:"Yes，butwhatismostwonderfulabouthimisthatheneverlefthisnativevalley，andneverhadanyinstruction，butpickeduphisartforhimselfasbesthecould。"
IhavebeentwicetoVarallosince，toseewhetherIshouldchangemymind，buthavenotdoneso。IfDedomenicihadbeenaFlorentineorVenetianinthebesttimes，hewouldhavedoneaswellasthebest；asitis，hisworkisremarkable。Hediedabout1840，veryold，andhekeptonimprovingtothelast。Hislastwork——atleastIwastolduponthespotthatitwashislast——isinalittleroadsidechapelperchedhighuponarock，anddedicated，ifI
rememberrightly，toS。Michele，onthepathfromFobellointheValMastallonetoTaponaccio。ItisaMadonnaandchildinclouds，withtwofull-lengthsaintsstandingbeneath——allthefigureslife-
size。Icameuponthischapelquiteaccidentallyoneevening，and，lookingin，recognisedthealtar-pieceasaDedomenici。Iinquiredatthenextvillagewhohadpaintedit，andwastold，"uncertoDedomenicidaRossa。"Iwasalsotoldthathewasnearlyeightyyearsoldwhenhepaintedthispicture。Iwentacoupleofyearsagotoreconsiderit，andfoundthatIremainedmuchofmyoriginalopinion。IdonotthinkthatanyofmyreaderswhocareaboutthehistoryofItalianartwillregrethavingpaiditavisit。
SuchmenaremorecommoninItalythanisbelieved。ThereisafrescooftheCrucifixionoutsidetheCampoSantoatFusio，intheCantonTicino，donebyalocalartist，which，thoughfarinferiortotheworkofDedomenici，isstillremarkable。Thepainterevidentlyknowsnothingoftherulesofhisart，buthehasmadeChristonthecrossbowingHisheadtowardsthesoulsinpurgatory，insteadofintheconventionalfinefrenzytowhichweareaccustomed。ThereisastormwhichhascaughtandissweepingthedraperyroundChrist'sbody。Theangel'swingsarenolongerwhite，butmanycolouredasinoldtimes，andthereisatouchofhumourinthefactthatofthesixsoulsinpurgatory，fourarewomenandonlytwomen。TheexpressiononChrist'sfaceisveryfine，butotherwisethedrawingcouldnotwellbemoreimperfectthanitis。
CHAPTERXII——ConsiderationsontheDeclineofItalianArtThosewhoknowtheItalianswillseenosignofdecayaboutthem。
Theyarethequickestwittedpeopleintheworld，andatthesametimehavemuchmoreoftheoldRomansteadinessthantheyaregenerallycreditedwith。Notonlyistherenosignofdegeneration，but，asregardspracticalmatters，thereiseverysignofhealthandvigorousdevelopment。TheNorthItaliansaremorelikeEnglishmen，bothinbodyandmind，thananyotherpeoplewhomIknow；IamcontinuallymeetingItalianswhomIshouldtakeforEnglishmenifIdidnotknowtheirnationality。Theyhaveallourstrongpoints，buttheyhavemoregraceandelasticityofmindthanwehave。
Priggishnessisthesinwhichdothmosteasilybesetmiddle-classandso-callededucatedEnglishmen:wecallitpurityandculture，butitdoesnotmuchmatterwhatwecallit。Itisthealmostinevitableoutcomeofauniversityeducation，andwilllastaslongasOxfordandCambridgedo，butnotmuchlonger。
LordBeaconsfieldsentLothairtoOxford；itiswithgreatpleasurethatIseehedidnotsendEndymion。MyfriendJonescalledmyattentiontothis，andwenotedthatthegrowthobservablethroughoutLordBeaconsfield'slifewascontinuedtotheend。Hewasoneofthosewho，nomatterhowlonghelived，wouldhavebeenalwaysgrowing:thisiswhatmakeshislaternovelssomuchbetterthanthoseofThackerayorDickens。Therewassomethingofthechildabouthimtothelast。Earnestnesswashisgreatestdanger，butifhedidnotquiteovercomeitaswhoindeedcan？Itisthelastenemythatshallbesubdued，hemanagedtoveilitwithafairamountofsuccess。AsforEndymion，ofcourseifLordBeaconsfieldhadthoughtOxfordwouldbegoodforhim，hecould，asJonespointedouttome，justaswellhavekilledMr。Ferrarsayearortwolater。Wefeelsatisfied，therefore，thatEndymion'sexclusionfromauniversitywascarefullyconsidered，andareglad。
IwillnotsaythatpriggishnessisabsolutelyunknownamongtheNorthItalians；sometimesonecomesuponayoungItalianwhowantstolearnGerman，butnotoften。Priggism，orwhateverthesubstantiveis，isasessentiallyaTeutonicviceasholinessisaSemiticcharacteristic；andifanItalianhappenstobeaprig，hewill，likeTacitus，invariablyshowahankeringafterGermaninstitutions。Theidea，however，thattheItalianswereeverafinerpeoplethantheyarenow，willnotpassmusterwiththosewhoknowthem。
Atthesametime，therecanbenodoubtthatmodernItalianartisinmanyrespectsasbadasitwasoncegood。Iwillconfinemyselftopaintingonly。ThemodernItalianpainters，withveryfewexceptions，paintasbadlyaswedo，orevenworse，andtheirmotivesareaspoorasistheirpainting。AtanexhibitionofmodernItalianpictures，Igenerallyfeelthatthereishardlyapictureonthewallsbutisasham——thatistosay，paintednotfromloveofthisparticularsubjectandanirresistibledesiretopaintit，butfromawishtopaintanacademypicture，andwinmoneyorapplause。
ThesameholdsgoodinEngland，andinallothercountriesthatI
knowof。Thereisverylittletolerablepaintinganywhere。Insomekinds，indeed，ofblackandwhiteworkthepresentageisstrong。Theillustrationsto"Punch，"forexample，areoftenasgoodasanythingthatcanbeimagined。Weknowofnothingliketheminanypastageorcountry。Thisistheonekindofart——anditisaverygoodone——inwhichweexcelasdistinctlyastheageofPhidiasexcelledinsculpture。LeonardodaVinciwouldneverhavesucceededingettinghisdrawingsacceptedat85FleetStreet，anymorethanoneoftheartistsonthestaffof"Punch"couldpaintafrescowhichshouldholditsownagainstDaVinci'sLastSupper。MichaelAngeloagainandTitianwouldhavefaileddisastrouslyatmodernillustration。TheyhadnomoresenseofhumourthanaHebrewprophet；theyhadnoeyeforthemoretrivialsideofanythingroundaboutthem。Thisaspectwentinatoneeyeandoutattheother——andtheylostmorethaneverpoorPeterBelllostinthematterofprimroses。Inevercanseewhattherewastofindfaultwithinthatyoungman。
Fancyastreet-ArabbyMichaelAngelo。Fancyeventheresultwhichwouldhaveensuedifhehadtriedtoputthefiguresintotheillustrationsofthisbook。Ishouldhavebeenverysorrytolethimtryhishandatit。Tohimapriestchuckingasmallboyunderthechinwassimplynon-existent。Hedidnotcareforit，andhadthereforenoeyeforit。IfthereaderwillturntothecopyofafrescoofSt。Christopheronp。209，hewillseetheconventionaltreatmentoftherocksoneithersidethesaint。Thiswasthebestthingtheartistcoulddo，andprobablycosthimnolittletrouble。
Yettherewererocksallaroundhim——little，infact，elsethanrockinthosedays；andtheartistcouldhavedrawnthemwellenoughifithadoccurredtohimtotryanddoso。IfhecoulddrawSt。Christopher，hecouldhavedrawnarock；buthehadaninterestintheone，andsawnothingintheotherwhichmadehimthinkitworthwhiletopayattentiontoit。Whatrocksweretohim，thecommonoccurrencesofeverydaylifeweretothosewhoaregenerallyheldtobethegiantsofpainting。Theresultofthisneglecttokissthesoil——ofthisattempttobealwayssoaring——isthatthesegiantsareforthemostpartnowveryuninteresting，whilethesmallermenwhoprecededthemgrowfresherandmoredelightfulyearly。ItwasnotsowithHandelandShakespeare。
Handel's"Ploughmannearathand，whistlingo'erthefurrowedland，"
isintenselysympathetic，andhishumourisadmirablewheneverhehasoccasionforit。
LeonardodaVinciistheonlyoneofthegiantItalianmasterswhoevertriedtobehumorous，andhefailedcompletely:so，indeed，mustanyoneifhetriestobehumorous。Wedonotwantthis；weonlywantthemnottoshuttheireyestoby-playwhenitcomesintheirway，andiftheyaregivingusanaccountofwhattheyhaveseen，totellussomethingaboutthistoo。Ibelievetheoldertheworldgrows，thebetteritenjoysajoke。Themediaevaljokegenerallywasaheavy，lumberingoldthing，onlyalittlebetterthantheclassicalone。Perhapsinthosedayslifewasharderthanitisnow，andpeopleiftheylookedatitatallcloselydweltuponitssobererside。Certainlyinhumorousart，wemayclaimtobenotonlyprincipes，butfacileprincipes。Nevertheless，theItaliancomicjournalsare，someofthem，admirablyillustrated，thoughinastylequitedifferentfromourown；sometimes，also，theyarebeautifullycoloured。
Asregardspainting，thelastraysofthesunsetofgenuineartaretobefoundinthevotivepicturesatLocarnoorOropa，andinmanyawaysidechapel。Inthese，religiousartstilllingersasalivinglanguage，howeverrudelyspoken。Inthesealoneisthestorytold，notasintheLatinandGreekversesofthescholar，whothinkshehassucceededbestwhenhehasmostconcealedhisnaturalmannerofexpressinghimself，butbyonewhoknowswhathewantstosay，andsaysitinhismother-tongue，shortly，andwithoutcaringwhetherornothiswordsareinaccordancewithacademicrules。Iregrettoseephotographybeingintroducedforvotivepurposes，andalsotodetectinsomeplacesadispositiononthepartoftheauthoritiestobealittleashamedofthesepicturesandtoplacethemratheroutofsight。
Sometimesinalittlecountryvillage，asatDoeranearMesocco，thereisamodernfrescoonachapelinwhichtheoldspiritappears，withitsabsoluteindifferenceastowhetheritwasridiculousorno，butsuchexamplesarerare。
Sometimes，again，IhaveeventhoughtIhavedetectedarayofsunsetuponamilkman'swindow-blindinLondon，andonceuponanundertaker's，butitwastoofaintaraytoreadby。ThebestthingofthekindthatIhaveseeninLondonisthepictureoftheladywhoiscleaningkniveswithMr。Spong'spatentknife-cleaner，inhisshopwindownearlyoppositeDay&Martin'sinHolborn。Itfallsalongwayshort，however，ofagoodItalianvotivepicture:
butithastheadvantageofmoving。
Iknewofalittlegirlonce，ratherlessthanfouryearsold，whoseunclehadpromisedtotakeherforadriveinacarriagewithhim，andhadfailedtodoso。Thechildwasfoundsoonafterwardsonthestairsweeping，andbeingaskedwhatwasthematter，replied，"Mansisallalike。"ThisisGiottesque。IoftenthinkofitasIlookuponItalianvotivepictures。Themeaningissosoundinspiteoftheexpressionbeingsodefective——if，indeed，expressioncanbedefectivewhenithassowellconveyedthemeaning。
Iknew，again，anoldladywhoseeducationhadbeenneglectedinheryouth。Shecameintoalargefortune，andatsomefortyyearsofageputherselfunderthebestmasters。Sheoncesaidtomeasfollows，speakingveryslowlyandallowingalongtimebetweeneachpartofthesentence；——"Yousee，"shesaid，"theworld，andallthatitcontains，iswrappedupinsuchcuriousforms，thatitisonlybyaknowledgeofhumannature，thatwecanrightlytellwhattosay，todo，ortoadmire。"Icopiedthesentenceintomynotebookimmediatelyontakingmyleave。Itislikeanacademypicture。
ButtoreturntotheItalians。Thequestionis，howhasthedeplorablefalling-offinItalianpaintingbeencaused？AndbydoingwhatmayweagaingetBellinisandAndreaMantegnasasinoldtime？Thefaultdoesnotlieinanywantofrawmaterial:thedrawingsIhavealreadygivenprovethis。Nor，again，doesitlieinwantoftakingpains。ThemodernItalianpainterfretshimselftothefullasmuchashispredecessordid——ifthetruthwereknown，probablyagreatdealmore。Itdoesnotlieinwantofschoolingorarteducation。Forthelastthreehundredyears，eversincetheCarracciopenedtheiracademyatBologna，therehasbeennolackofarteducationinItaly。Curiouslyenough，thedateoftheopeningoftheBologneseAcademycoincidesasnearlyasmaybewiththecompletedecadenceofItalianpainting。
ThisisanexampleofthewayinwhichItalianboysbegintheirarteducationnow。ThedrawingwhichIreproduceherewasgivenmebytheeminentsculptor，ProfessorVela，astheworkofaladoftwelveyearsold，andasdoingcreditaliketotheschoolwheretheladwastaughtandtothepupilhimself。{22}
Soitundoubtedlydoes。ItshowsasplainlythereceptivenessanddocilityofthemodernItalian，astheillustrationsgivenaboveshowhisfreshnessandnaivetewhenlefttohimself。Thedrawingisjustsuchaswetrytogetourownyoungpeopletodo，andfewEnglishelementaryschoolsinasmallcountrytownwouldsucceedinturningoutsogoodaone。Ihavenothing，therefore，butpraisebothforthepupilandtheteacher；butaboutthesystemwhichmakessuchteachersandsuchpupilscommendable，Iammoresceptical。Thatsystemtrainsboystostudyotherpeople'sworksratherthannature，and，asLeonardodaVincisowellsays，itmakesthemnature'sgrandchildrenandnotherchildren。Theboywhodidthedrawinggivenaboveisnotlikelytoproducegoodworkinlaterlife。Hehasbeentaughttoseenaturewithanoldman'seyesatonce，withoutgoingthroughtheembryonicstages。Hehasneversaidhis"mansisallalike，"andbytwentywillbepaintinglikemyoldfriend'slongacademicsentence。Allhisindividualityhasbeencrushedoutofhim。
IwillnowgiveareproductionofthefrontispiecetoAvogadro'sworkonthesanctuaryofS。Michele，fromwhichIhavealreadyquoted；itisaveryprettyandeffectivepieceofwork，butthosewhoaregoodenoughtoturnbacktop。93，andtobelievethatI
havedrawncarefully，willseehowdisappointingAvogadro'sfrontispiecemustbetothosewhohold，asmostofuswill，thatadraughtsman'sfirstbusinessistoputdownwhathesees，andtoletprettinesstakecareofitself。Themainfeatures，indeed，canstillbetraced，buttheyhavebecomeastransformedandlifelessasrudimentaryorgans。Suchafrontispiece，however，isthealmostinevitableconsequenceofthesystemoftrainingthatwillmakeboysoftwelvedodrawingsliketheonegivenonp。147。
IfhalfadozenyoungItalianscouldbegottogetherwithatastefordrawinglikethatshownbytheauthorsofthesketchesonpp。
136，137，138；iftheyhadpowertoaddtotheirnumber；iftheywereallowedtoseepaintingsanddrawingsdoneuptotheyearA。D。
1510，andvotivepicturesandthecomicpapers；iftheywereleftwithnootherassistancethanthis，absolutelyfreetopleasethemselves，andcouldbepersuadednottotryandpleaseanyoneelse，Ibelievethatinfiftyyearsweshouldhaveallthatwaseverdonerepeatedwithfreshnaivete，andasmuchmoredelightfullythanevenbythebestoldmasters，asthesearemoredelightfulthananythingweknowofinclassicpainting。Theyoungplantskeepgrowingupabundantlyeveryday——lookatBastianini，deadnottenyearssince——buttheyarebrowseddownbytheacademies。Iremembertherecameoutabookmanyyearsagowiththetitle，"Whatbecomesofallthecleverlittlechildren？"I
neversawthebook，butthetitleispertinent。
Anymanwhocanwrite，candrawtoanotinconsiderableextent。
LookattheBayeuxtapestry；yetMatildaprobablyneverhadadrawinglessoninherlife。SeehowwellprisonerafterprisonerintheTowerofLondonhascutthisorthatoutinthestoneofhisprisonwall，without，inallprobability，havingevertriedhishandatdrawingbefore。LookatmyfriendJones，whohasseveralillustrationsinthisbook。Thefirstyearhewentabroadwithmehecouldhardlydrawatall。HewasnoyearawayfromEnglandmorethanthreeweeks。Howdidhelearn？Ontheoldprinciple，ifIamnotmistaken。Theoldprinciplewasforamantobedoingsomethingwhichhewasprettystronglybentondoing，andtogetamuchyoungeronetohelphim。Theyoungerpaidnothingforinstruction，buttheeldertookthework，aslongastherelationofmasterandpupilexistedbetweenthem。I，then，wasmakingillustrationsforthisbook，andgotJonestohelpme。IlethimseewhatIwasdoing，andderiveanideaofthesortofthingI
wanted，andthenlefthimalone——beyondgivinghimthesamekindofsmallcriticismthatIexpectedfromhimself——butIappropriatedhiswork。Thatisthewaytoteach，andtheresultwasthatinanincrediblyshorttimeJonescoulddraw。Thetakingtheworkisasinequanon。IfIhadnotbeengoingtohavehiswork，Jones，inspiteofallhisquickness，wouldprobablyhavebeenratherslowerinlearningtodraw。Beingpaidinmoneyisnothinglikesogood。
Thisisthesystemofapprenticeshipversustheacademicsystem。
Theacademicsystemconsistsingivingpeopletherulesfordoingthings。Theapprenticeshipsystemconsistsinlettingthemdoit，withjustatrifleofsupervision。"Forallarhetorician'srules，"saysmygreatnamesake，"teachnothing，buttonamehistools；"andacademicrulesgenerallyaremuchthesameastherhetorician's。Somemencanpassthroughacademiesunscathed，buttheyareveryfew，andinthemaintheacademicinfluenceisabalefulone，whetherexertedinauniversityoraschool。Whileyoungmenatuniversitiesarebeingpreparedfortheirentryintolife，theirrivalshavealreadyenteredit。ThemostuniversityandexaminationriddenpeopleintheworldaretheChinese，andtheyaretheleastprogressive。
Menshouldlearntodrawastheylearnconveyancing:theyshouldgointoapainter'sstudioandpaintonhispictures。Iamtoldthathalftheconveyancesinthecountryaredrawnbypupils；thereisnomoremysteryaboutpaintingthanaboutconveyancing——nothalfinfact，Ishouldthink，somuch。Onemayask，Howcanthebeginnerpaint，ordrawconveyances，tillhehaslearnthowtodoso？Theansweris，Howcanhelearn，withoutatanyratetryingtodo？Ifhelikeshissubject，hewilltry:ifhetries，hewillsoonsucceedindoingsomethingwhichshallopenadoor。Itdoesnotmatterwhatamandoes；solongashedoesitwiththeattentionwhichaffectionengenders，hewillcometoseehiswaytosomethingelse。Afterlongwaitinghewillcertainlyfindonedooropen，andgothroughit。Hewillsaytohimselfthathecanneverfindanother。Hehasfoundthis，morebyluckthancunning，butnowheisdone。YetbyandbyhewillseethatthereisONEmoresmall，unimportantdoorwhichhehadoverlooked，andheproceedsthroughthistoo。Ifheremainsnowforalongwhileandseesnoother，donotlethimfret；doorsarelikethekingdomofheaven，theycomenotbyobservation，leastofalldotheycomebyforcing:
letthemjustgoondoingwhatcomesnearest，butdoingitattentively，andagreatwidedoorwillonedayspringintoexistencewheretherehadbeennosignofonebutalittletimepreviously。Onlylethimbealwaysdoingsomething，andlethimcrosshimselfnowandagain，forbeliefinthewondrousefficacyofcrossesandcrossingisthecorner-stoneofthecreedoftheevolutionist。Thenafteryears——butnotprobablytillafteragreatmany——doorswillopenupallround，somanyandsowidethatthedifficultywillnotbetofindadoor，butrathertoobtainthemeansofevenhurriedlysurveyingaportionofthosethatstandinvitinglyopen。
Iknowthatjustasgoodacasecanbemadeoutfortheotherside。
Itmaybesaidastrulythatunlessastudentisincessantlyonthewatchfordoorshewillneverseethem，andthatunlessheisincessantlypressingforwardtothekingdomofheavenhewillneverfindit——sothatthekingdomdoescomebyobservation。Itiswiththisaswitheverythingelse——theremustbeaharmoniousfusingoftwoprincipleswhichareinflatcontradictiontooneanother。
Thequestionwhetheritisbettertoabidequietandtakeadvantageofopportunitiesthatcome，ortogofurtherafieldinsearchofthem，isoneoftheoldestwhichlivingbeingshavehadtodealwith。Itwasonthisthatthefirstgreatschismorheresyaroseinwhatwasheretoforethecatholicfaithofprotoplasm。Theschismstilllasts，andhasresultedintwogreatsects——animalsandplants。Theopinionthatitisbettertogoinsearchofpreyisformulatedinanimals；theother——thatitisbetteronthewholetostayathomeandprofitbywhatcomes——inplants。Someintermediateformsstillrecordtousthelongstruggleduringwhichtheschismwasnotyetcomplete。
IfImaybepardonedforpursuingthisdigressionfurther，Iwouldsaythatitistheplantsandnotwewhoaretheheretics。Therecanbenoquestionaboutthis；weareperfectlyjustified，therefore，indevouringthem。Oursistheoriginalandorthodoxbelief，forprotoplasmismuchmoreanimalthanvegetable；itismuchmoretruetosaythatplantshavedescendedfromanimalsthananimalsfromplants。Nevertheless，likemanyotherheretics，plantshavethrivenveryfairlywell。Thereareagreatmanyofthem，andasregardsbeauty，ifnotwit——ofalimitedkindindeed，butstillwit——itishardtosaythattheanimalkingdomhastheadvantage。Theviewsofplantsaresadlynarrow；alldissentersarenarrow-minded；butwithintheirownboundstheyknowthedetailsoftheirbusinesssufficientlywell——aswellasthoughtheykeptthemostnicely-balancedsystemofaccountstoshowthemtheirposition。Theyareeaten，itistrue；toeatthemisourbigotedandintolerantwayoftryingtoconvertthem:eatingisonlyaviolentmodeofproselytisingorconverting；andwedoconvertthem——togoodanimalsubstance，ofourownwayofthinking。Butthen，animalsareeatentoo。Theyconvertoneanother，almostasmuchastheyconvertplants。Andananimalisnosoonerdeadthanaplantwillconvertitbackagain。Itisobvious，however，thatnoschismcouldhavebeensolongsuccessful，withouthavingagooddealtosayforitself。
Neitherpartyhasbeenquiteconsistent。Whoeverisorcanbe？
Everyextreme——everyopinioncarriedtoitslogicalend——willprovetobeanabsurdity。Plantsthrowoutrootsandboughsandleaves；
thisisakindoflocomotion；andasDr。ErasmusDarwinlongsincepointedout，theydosometimesapproachnearlytowhatmaybecalledtravelling；amanofconsistentcharacterwillneverlookatabough，aroot，oratendrilwithoutregardingitasamelancholyandunprincipledcompromise。Ontheotherhand，manyanimalsaresessile，andsomesingularlysuccessfulgenera，asspiders，areinthemainliers-in-wait。Itmayappear，however，onthewhole，likereopeningasettledquestiontoupholdtheprincipleofbeingbusyandattentiveoverasmallarea，ratherthangoingtoandfrooveralargerone，foramammallikeman，butIthinkmostreaderswillbewithmeinthinkingthat，atanyrateasregardsartandliterature，itishewhodoeshissmallimmediateworkmostcarefullywhowillfinddoorsopenmostcertainlytohim，thatwillconducthimintotherichestchambers。
Manyyearsago，inNewZealand，Iusedsometimestoaccompanyadrayandteamofbullockswhowouldhavetobeturnedlooseatnightthattheymightfeed。Therewerenohedgesorfencesthen，sosometimesIcouldnotfindmyteaminthemorning，andhadnocluetothedirectioninwhichtheyhadgone。AtfirstIusedtotryandthrowmysoulintothebullocks'souls，soastodivineifpossiblewhattheywouldbelikelytohavedone，andwouldthenrideofftenmilesinthewrongdirection。Peopleusedinthosedaystolosetheirbullockssometimesforaweekorfortnight——whentheyperhapswereallthetimehidinginagullyhardbytheplacewheretheywereturnedout。AftersometimeIchangedmytactics。
OnlosingmybullocksIwouldgotothenearestaccommodationhouse，andstandoccasionaldrinkstotravellers。Someonewoulderelong，asageneralrule，turnupwhohadseenthebullocks。
ThiscasedoesnotgoquiteonallfourswithwhatIhavebeensayingabove，inasmuchasIwasnotveryindustriousinmylimitedarea；butthestandingdrinksandinquiringwasbeingasindustriousasthecircumstanceswouldallow。
Toreturn，universitiesandacademiesareanobstacletothefindingofdoorsinlaterlife；partlybecausetheypushtheiryoungmentoofastthroughdoorwaysthattheuniversitieshaveprovided，andsodiscouragethehabitofbeingonthelook-outforothers；andpartlybecausetheydonottakepainsenoughtomakesurethattheirdoorsarebonafideones。If，tochangethemetaphor，anacademyhastakenabadshilling，itisseldomveryscrupulousabouttryingtopassiton。Itwillsticktoitthattheshillingisagoodoneaslongasthepolicewillletit。I
wasveryhappyatCambridge；whenIleftitIthoughtIneveragaincouldbesohappyanywhereelse；IshalleverretainamostkindlyrecollectionbothofCambridgeandoftheschoolwhereIpassedmyboyhood；butIfeel，asIthinkmostothersmustinmiddlelife，thatIhavespentasmuchofmymatureryearsinunlearningasinlearning。
Thepropercourseisforaboytobeginthepracticalbusinessoflifemanyyearsearlierthanhenowcommonlydoes。Heshouldbeginattheverybottomofaprofession；ifpossibleofonewhichhisfamilyhaspursuedbeforehim——fortheprofessionswillassuredlyonedaybecomehereditary。Theidealrailwaydirectorwillhavebegunatfourteenasarailwayporter。Heneednotbeaporterformorethanaweekortendays，anymorethanheneedhavebeenatadpolemorethanashorttime；butheshouldtakeaturninpractice，thoughbriefly，ateachofthelowerbranchesintheprofession。Thepaintershoulddojustthesame。Heshouldbeginbysettinghisemployer'spaletteandcleaninghisbrushes。Asforthegoodsideofuniversities，theproperpreservativeofthisistobefoundintheclub。
If，then，wearetohavearenaissanceofart，theremustbeacompletestandingalooffromtheacademicsystem。Thatsystemhashadtimeenough。Whereandwhoareitsmen？Canitpointtoonepainterwhocanholdhisownwiththemenof，say，from1450to1550？Academieswillbringoutmenwhocanpainthairverylikehair，andeyesverylikeeyes，butthisisnotenough。Thisisgrammaranddeportment；wewantitandakindlynature，andthesecannotbegotfromacademies。AsfarasmereTECHNIQUEisconcerned，almosteveryonenowcanpaintaswellasisintheleastdesirable。Thesamemutatismutandisholdsgoodwithwritingaswithpainting。Wewantlessword-paintingandfinephrases，andmoreobservationatfirst-hand。Letushaveaperiodicalillustratedbypeoplewhocannotdraw，andwrittenbypeoplewhocannotwriteperhaps，however，afterall，wehavesome，butwholookandthinkforthemselves，andexpressthemselvesjustastheyplease，——andthiswecertainlyhavenot。Everycontributorshouldbeatonceturnedoutifheorsheisgenerallybelievedtohavetriedtodosomethingwhichheorshedidnotcareabouttryingtodo，andanythingshouldbeadmittedwhichistheoutcomeofagenuineliking。Peoplearealwaysgoodcompanywhentheyaredoingwhattheyreallyenjoy。Acatisgoodcompanywhenitispurring，oradogwhenitiswaggingitstail。
Thesketchingclubsupanddownthecountrymightformthenucleusofsuchasociety，providedallprofessionalmenwererigorouslyexcluded。Asfortheoldmasters，thebetterplanwouldbenevereventolookatoneofthem，andtoconsignRaffaelle，alongwithPlato，MarcusAureliusAntoninus，Dante，Goethe，andtwoothers，neitherofthemEnglishmen，tolimbo，astheSevenHumbugsofChristendom。
Whileweareaboutit，letusleaveofftalkingabout"artforart'ssake。"Whoisartthatitshouldhaveasake？Aworkofartshouldbeproducedforthepleasureitgivestheproducer，andthepleasurehethinksitwillgivetoafewofwhomheisfond；butneithermoneynorpeoplewhomhedoesnotknowpersonallyshouldbethoughtof。OfcoursesuchasocietyasIhaveproposedwouldnotremainincorruptlong。"Everythingthatgrows，holdsinperfectionbutalittlemoment。"Thememberswouldtrytoimitateprofessionalmeninspiteoftheirrules，or，iftheyescapedthisandafterawhilegottopaintwell，theywouldbecomedogmatic，andarebellionagainsttheirauthoritywouldbeasnecessaryerelongasitwasagainstthatoftheirpredecessors:butthebalanceonthewholewouldbetothegood。
Professionalmenshouldbeexcluded，iffornootherreasonyetforthis，thattheyknowtoomuchforthebeginnertobeenrapportwiththem。Itisthebeginnerwhocanhelpthebeginner，asitisthechildwhoisthemostinstructivecompanionforanotherchild。