Ifoundmyselfstanding,whenagleamofconsciousnesscameuponme,holdingontosomething。Idon'tknowwhat。Ithinkitwastheboatswain:oritmayhavebeenthepump:orpossiblythecow。
Ican'tsayhowlongIhadbeenthere;whetheradayoraminute。
Irecollecttryingtothinkaboutsomethingaboutanythinginthewholewideworld,Iwasnotparticularwithoutthesmallesteffect。Icouldnotevenmakeoutwhichwasthesea,andwhichthesky,forthehorizonseemeddrunk,andwasflyingwildlyaboutinalldirections。Eveninthatincapablestate,however,I
recognisedthelazygentlemanstandingbeforeme:nauticallycladinasuitofshaggyblue,withanoilskinhat。ButIwastooimbecile,althoughIknewittobehe,toseparatehimfromhisdress;andtriedtocallhim,Iremember,PILOT。Afteranotherintervaloftotalunconsciousness,Ifoundhehadgone,andrecognisedanotherfigureinitsplace。ItseemedtowaveandfluctuatebeforemeasthoughIsawitreflectedinanunsteadylooking-glass;butIknewitforthecaptain;andsuchwasthecheerfulinfluenceofhisface,thatItriedtosmile:yes,eventhenItriedtosmile。Isawbyhisgesturesthatheaddressedme;
butitwasalongtimebeforeIcouldmakeoutthatheremonstratedagainstmystandinguptomykneesinwater-asIwas;ofcourseI
don'tknowwhy。Itriedtothankhim,butcouldn't。Icouldonlypointtomyboots-orwhereverIsupposedmybootstobe-andsayinaplaintivevoice,'Corksoles:'atthesametimeendeavouring,Iamtold,tositdowninthepool。FindingthatIwasquiteinsensible,andforthetimeamaniac,hehumanelyconductedmebelow。
ThereIremaineduntilIgotbetter:suffering,wheneverIwasrecommendedtoeatanything,anamountofanguishonlysecondtothatwhichissaidtobeenduredbytheapparentlydrowned,intheprocessofrestorationtolife。OnegentlemanonboardhadaletterofintroductiontomefromamutualfriendinLondon。Hesentitbelowwithhiscard,onthemorningofthehead-wind;andI
waslongtroubledwiththeideathathemightbeup,andwell,andahundredtimesadayexpectingmetocalluponhiminthesaloon。
Iimaginedhimoneofthosecast-ironimages-Iwillnotcallthemmen-whoask,withredfaces,andlustyvoices,whatsea-sicknessmeans,andwhetheritreallyisasbadasitisrepresentedtobe。
Thiswasverytorturingindeed;andIdon'tthinkIeverfeltsuchperfectgratificationandgratitudeofheart,asIdidwhenIheardfromtheship'sdoctorthathehadbeenobligedtoputalargemustardpoulticeonthisverygentleman'sstomach。Idatemyrecoveryfromthereceiptofthatintelligence。
Itwasmateriallyassistedthough,Ihavenodoubt,byaheavygaleofwind,whichcameslowlyupatsunset,whenwewereabouttendaysout,andragedwithgraduallyincreasingfuryuntilmorning,savingthatitlulledforanhouralittlebeforemidnight。Therewassomethingintheunnaturalreposeofthathour,andintheaftergatheringofthestorm,soinconceivablyawfulandtremendous,thatitsburstingintofullviolencewasalmostarelief。
ThelabouringoftheshipinthetroubledseaonthisnightIshallneverforget。'Williteverbeworsethanthis?'wasaquestionI
hadoftenheardasked,wheneverythingwasslidingandbumpingabout,andwhenitcertainlydidseemdifficulttocomprehendthepossibilityofanythingafloatbeingmoredisturbed,withouttopplingoverandgoingdown。Butwhattheagitationofasteam-
vesselis,onabadwinter'snightinthewildAtlantic,itisimpossibleforthemostvividimaginationtoconceive。Tosaythatsheisflungdownonhersideinthewaves,withhermastsdippingintothem,andthat,springingupagain,sherollsoverontheotherside,untilaheavyseastrikesherwiththenoiseofahundredgreatguns,andhurlsherback-thatshestops,andstaggers,andshivers,asthoughstunned,andthen,withaviolentthrobbingatherheart,dartsonwardlikeamonstergoadedintomadness,tobebeatendown,andbattered,andcrushed,andleapedonbytheangrysea-thatthunder,lightning,hail,andrain,andwind,areallinfiercecontentionforthemastery-thateveryplankhasitsgroan,everynailitsshriek,andeverydropofwaterinthegreatoceanitshowlingvoice-isnothing。Tosaythatallisgrand,andallappallingandhorribleinthelastdegree,isnothing。Wordscannotexpressit。Thoughtscannotconveyit。
Onlyadreamcancallitupagain,inallitsfury,rage,andpassion。
Andyet,intheverymidstoftheseterrors,Iwasplacedinasituationsoexquisitelyridiculous,thateventhenIhadasstrongasenseofitsabsurdityasIhavenow,andcouldnomorehelplaughingthanIcanatanyothercomicalincident,happeningundercircumstancesthemostfavourabletoitsenjoyment。Aboutmidnightweshippedasea,whichforceditswaythroughtheskylights,burstopenthedoorsabove,andcameragingandroaringdownintotheladies'cabin,totheunspeakableconsternationofmywifeandalittleScotchlady-who,bytheway,hadpreviouslysentamessagetothecaptainbythestewardess,requestinghim,withhercompliments,tohaveasteelconductorimmediatelyattachedtothetopofeverymast,andtothechimney,inorderthattheshipmightnotbestruckbylightning。Theyandthehandmaidbeforementioned,beinginsuchecstasiesoffearthatIscarcelyknewwhattodowiththem,Inaturallybethoughtmyselfofsomerestorativeorcomfortablecordial;andnothingbetteroccurringtome,atthemoment,thanhotbrandy-and-water,Iprocuredatumblerfullwithoutdelay。Itbeingimpossibletostandorsitwithoutholdingon,theywereallheapedtogetherinonecornerofalongsofa-afixtureextendingentirelyacrossthecabin-wheretheyclungtoeachotherinmomentaryexpectationofbeingdrowned。
WhenIapproachedthisplacewithmyspecific,andwasabouttoadministeritwithmanyconsolatoryexpressionstothenearestsufferer,whatwasmydismaytoseethemallrollslowlydowntotheotherend!AndwhenIstaggeredtothatend,andheldouttheglassoncemore,howimmenselybaffledweremygoodintentionsbytheshipgivinganotherlurch,andtheirallrollingbackagain!I
supposeIdodgedthemupanddownthissofaforatleastaquarterofanhour,withoutreachingthemonce;andbythetimeIdidcatchthem,thebrandy-and-waterwasdiminished,byconstantspilling,toateaspoonful。Tocompletethegroup,itisnecessarytorecogniseinthisdisconcerteddodger,anindividualverypalefromsea-
sickness,whohadshavedhisbeardandbrushedhishair,last,atLiverpool:andwhoseonlyarticleofdresslinennotincluded
wereapairofdreadnoughttrousers;abluejacket,formerlyadmiredupontheThamesatRichmond;nostockings;andoneslipper。
Oftheoutrageousanticsperformedbythatshipnextmorning;whichmadebedapracticaljoke,andgettingup,byanyprocessshortoffallingout,animpossibility;Isaynothing。ButanythingliketheutterdrearinessanddesolationthatmetmyeyeswhenI
literally'tumbledup'ondeckatnoon,Ineversaw。Oceanandskywereallofonedull,heavy,uniform,leadcolour。Therewasnoextentofprospectevenoverthedrearywastethatlayaroundus,forthesearanhigh,andthehorizonencompasseduslikealargeblackhoop。Viewedfromtheair,orsometallbluffonshore,itwouldhavebeenimposingandstupendous,nodoubt;butseenfromthewetandrollingdecks,itonlyimpressedonegiddilyandpainfully。Inthegaleoflastnightthelife-boathadbeencrushedbyoneblowofthesealikeawalnut-shell;andthereithungdanglingintheair:amerefaggotofcrazyboards。Theplankingofthepaddle-boxeshadbeentornsheeraway。Thewheelswereexposedandbare;andtheywhirledanddashedtheirsprayaboutthedecksatrandom。Chimney,whitewithcrustedsalt;
topmastsstruck;storm-sailsset;riggingallknotted,tangled,wet,anddrooping:agloomierpictureitwouldbehardtolookupon。
Iwasnowcomfortablyestablishedbycourtesyintheladies'cabin,where,besidesourselves,therewereonlyfourotherpassengers。
First,thelittleScotchladybeforementioned,onherwaytojoinherhusbandatNewYork,whohadsettledtherethreeyearsbefore。
Secondlyandthirdly,anhonestyoungYorkshireman,connectedwithsomeAmericanhouse;domiciledinthatsamecity,andcarryingthitherhisbeautifulyoungwifetowhomhehadbeenmarriedbutafortnight,andwhowasthefairestspecimenofacomelyEnglishcountrygirlIhaveeverseen。Fourthy,fifthly,andlastly,anothercouple:newlymarriedtoo,ifonemightjudgefromtheendearmentstheyfrequentlyinterchanged:ofwhomIknownomorethanthattheywereratheramysterious,run-awaykindofcouple;
thattheladyhadgreatpersonalattractionsalso;andthatthegentlemancarriedmoregunswithhimthanRobinsonCrusoe,woreashooting-coat,andhadtwogreatdogsonboard。Onfurtherconsideration,Irememberthathetriedhotroastpigandbottledaleasacureforsea-sickness;andthathetooktheseremediesusuallyinbeddayafterday,withastonishingperseverance。I
mayadd,fortheinformationofthecurious,thattheydecidedlyfailed。
Theweathercontinuingobstinatelyandalmostunprecedentedlybad,weusuallystraggledintothiscabin,moreorlessfaintandmiserable,aboutanhourbeforenoon,andlaydownonthesofastorecover;duringwhichinterval,thecaptainwouldlookintocommunicatethestateofthewind,themoralcertaintyofitschangingto-morrowtheweatherisalwaysgoingtoimproveto-
morrow,atsea,thevessel'srateofsailing,andsoforth。
Observationstherewerenonetotellusof,fortherewasnosuntotakethemby。Butadescriptionofonedaywillserveforalltherest。Hereitis。
Thecaptainbeinggone,wecomposeourselvestoread,iftheplacebelightenough;andifnot,wedozeandtalkalternately。Atone,abellrings,andthestewardesscomesdownwithasteamingdishofbakedpotatoes,andanotherofroastedapples;andplatesofpig'sface,coldham,saltbeef;orperhapsasmokingmessofrarehotcollops。Wefalltouponthesedainties;eatasmuchaswecanwehavegreatappetitesnow;andareaslongaspossibleaboutit。
IfthefirewillburnitWILLsometimesweareprettycheerful。
Ifitwon't,weallremarktoeachotherthatit'sverycold,rubourhands,coverourselveswithcoatsandcloaks,andliedownagaintodoze,talk,andreadprovidedasaforesaid,untildinner-time。Atfive,anotherbellrings,andthestewardessreappearswithanotherdishofpotatoes-boiledthistime-andstoreofhotmeatofvariouskinds:notforgettingtheroastpig,tobetakenmedicinally。Wesitdownattableagainrathermorecheerfullythanbefore;prolongthemealwitharathermouldydessertofapples,grapes,andoranges;anddrinkourwineandbrandy-and-water。Thebottlesandglassesarestilluponthetable,andtheorangesandsofortharerollingaboutaccordingtotheirfancyandtheship'sway,whenthedoctorcomesdown,byspecialnightlyinvitation,tojoinoureveningrubber:
immediatelyonwhosearrivalwemakeapartyatwhist,andasitisaroughnightandthecardswillnotlieonthecloth,weputthetricksinourpocketsaswetakethem。Atwhistweremainwithexemplarygravitydeductingashorttimeforteaandtoastuntileleveno'clock,orthereabouts;whenthecaptaincomesdownagain,inasou'-westerhattiedunderhischin,andapilot-coat:makingthegroundwetwherehestands。Bythistimethecard-playingisover,andthebottlesandglassesareagainuponthetable;andafteranhour'spleasantconversationabouttheship,thepassengers,andthingsingeneral,thecaptainwhonevergoestobed,andisneveroutofhumourturnsuphiscoatcollarforthedeckagain;shakeshandsallround;andgoeslaughingoutintotheweatherasmerrilyastoabirthdayparty。
Astodailynews,thereisnodearthofthatcommodity。ThispassengerisreportedtohavelostfourteenpoundsatVingt-et-uninthesaloonyesterday;andthatpassengerdrinkshisbottleofchampagneeveryday,andhowhedoesitbeingonlyaclerk,nobodyknows。Theheadengineerhasdistinctlysaidthatthereneverwassuchtimes-meaningweather-andfourgoodhandsareill,andhavegivenin,deadbeat。Severalberthsarefullofwater,andallthecabinsareleaky。Theship'scook,secretlyswiggingdamagedwhiskey,hasbeenfounddrunk;andhasbeenplayeduponbythefire-engineuntilquitesober。Allthestewardshavefallendown-stairsatvariousdinner-times,andgoaboutwithplastersinvariousplaces。Thebakerisill,andsoisthepastry-cook。Anewman,horriblyindisposed,hasbeenrequiredtofilltheplaceofthelatterofficer;andhasbeenproppedandjammedupwithemptycasksinalittlehouseupondeck,andcommandedtorolloutpie-crust,whichheprotestsbeinghighlybiliousitisdeathtohimtolookat。News!Adozenmurdersonshorewouldlacktheinterestoftheseslightincidentsatsea。
Dividedbetweenourrubberandsuchtopicsasthese,wewererunningaswethoughtintoHalifaxHarbour,onthefifteenthnight,withlittlewindandabrightmoon-indeed,wehadmadetheLightatitsouterentrance,andputthepilotincharge-whensuddenlytheshipstruckuponabankofmud。Animmediaterushondecktookplaceofcourse;thesideswerecrowdedinaninstant;
andforafewminuteswewereinaslivelyastateofconfusionasthegreatestloverofdisorderwoulddesiretosee。Thepassengers,andguns,andwater-casks,andotherheavymatters,beingallhuddledtogetheraft,however,tolightenherinthehead,shewassoongotoff;andaftersomedrivingontowardsanuncomfortablelineofobjectswhosevicinityhadbeenannouncedveryearlyinthedisasterbyaloudcryof'Breakersa-head!'andmuchbackingofpaddles,andheavingoftheleadintoaconstantlydecreasingdepthofwater,wedroppedanchorinastrangeoutlandish-lookingnookwhichnobodyonboardcouldrecognise,althoughtherewaslandallaboutus,andsoclosethatwecouldplainlyseethewavingbranchesofthetrees。
Itwasstrangeenough,inthesilenceofmidnight,andthedeadstillnessthatseemedtobecreatedbythesuddenandunexpectedstoppageoftheenginewhichhadbeenclankingandblastinginourearsincessantlyforsomanydays,towatchthelookofblankastonishmentexpressedineveryface:beginningwiththeofficers,tracingitthroughallthepassengers,anddescendingtotheverystokersandfurnacemen,whoemergedfrombelow,onebyone,andclusteredtogetherinasmokygroupaboutthehatchwayoftheengine-room,comparingnotesinwhispers。Afterthrowingupafewrocketsandfiringsignalgunsinthehopeofbeinghailedfromtheland,oratleastofseeingalight-butwithoutanyothersightorsoundpresentingitself-itwasdeterminedtosendaboatonshore。Itwasamusingtoobservehowverykindsomeofthepassengerswere,involunteeringtogoashoreinthissameboat:
forthegeneralgood,ofcourse:notbyanymeansbecausetheythoughttheshipinanunsafeposition,orcontemplatedthepossibilityofherheelingoverincasethetidewererunningout。
Norwasitlessamusingtoremarkhowdesperatelyunpopularthepoorpilotbecameinoneshortminute。HehadhadhispassageoutfromLiverpool,andduringthewholevoyagehadbeenquiteanotoriouscharacter,asatellerofanecdotesandcrackerofjokes。
Yethereweretheverymenwhohadlaughedtheloudestathisjests,nowflourishingtheirfistsinhisface,loadinghimwithimprecations,anddefyinghimtohisteethasavillain!
Theboatsoonshovedoff,withalanternandsundrybluelightsonboard;andinlessthananhourreturned;theofficerincommandbringingwithhimatolerablytallyoungtree,whichhehadpluckedupbytheroots,tosatisfycertaindistrustfulpassengerswhosemindsmisgavethemthattheyweretobeimposeduponandshipwrecked,andwhowouldonnoothertermsbelievethathehadbeenashore,orhaddoneanythingbutfraudulentlyrowalittlewayintothemist,speciallytodeceivethemandcompasstheirdeaths。
OurcaptainhadforeseenfromthefirstthatwemustbeinaplacecalledtheEasternpassage;andsowewere。Itwasaboutthelastplaceintheworldinwhichwehadanybusinessorreasontobe,butasuddenfog,andsomeerroronthepilot'spart,werethecause。Weweresurroundedbybanks,androcks,andshoalsofallkinds,buthadhappilydrifted,itseemed,upontheonlysafespeckthatwastobefoundthereabouts。Easedbythisreport,andbytheassurancethatthetidewaspasttheebb,weturnedinatthreeo'clockinthemorning。
Iwasdressingabouthalf-pastninenextday,whenthenoiseabovehurriedmeondeck。WhenIhadleftitovernight,itwasdark,foggy,anddamp,andtherewerebleakhillsallroundus。Now,wewereglidingdownasmooth,broadstream,attherateofelevenmilesanhour:ourcoloursflyinggaily;ourcrewriggedoutintheirsmartestclothes;ourofficersinuniformagain;thesunshiningasonabrilliantAprildayinEngland;thelandstretchedoutoneitherside,streakedwithlightpatchesofsnow;whitewoodenhouses;peopleattheirdoors;telegraphsworking;flagshoisted;wharfsappearing;ships;quayscrowdedwithpeople;
distantnoises;shouts;menandboysrunningdownsteepplacestowardsthepier:allmorebrightandgayandfreshtoourunusedeyesthanwordscanpaintthem。Wecametoawharf,pavedwithupliftedfaces;gotalongside,andweremadefast,aftersomeshoutingandstrainingofcables;darted,ascoreofusalongthegangway,almostassoonasitwasthrustouttomeetus,andbeforeithadreachedtheship-andleapeduponthefirmgladearthagain!
IsupposethisHalifaxwouldhaveappearedanElysium,thoughithadbeenacuriosityofuglydulness。ButIcarriedawaywithmeamostpleasantimpressionofthetownanditsinhabitants,andhavepreservedittothishour。NorwasitwithoutregretthatIcamehome,withouthavingfoundanopportunityofreturningthither,andoncemoreshakinghandswiththefriendsImadethatday。
IthappenedtobetheopeningoftheLegislativeCouncilandGeneralAssembly,atwhichceremonialtheformsobservedonthecommencementofanewSessionofParliamentinEnglandweresocloselycopied,andsogravelypresentedonasmallscale,thatitwaslikelookingatWestminsterthroughthewrongendofatelescope。Thegovernor,asherMajesty'srepresentative,deliveredwhatmaybecalledtheSpeechfromtheThrone。Hesaidwhathehadtosaymanfullyandwell。Themilitarybandoutsidethebuildingstruckup"GodsavetheQueen"withgreatvigourbeforehisExcellencyhadquitefinished;thepeopleshouted;thein'srubbedtheirhands;theout'sshooktheirheads;theGovernmentpartysaidthereneverwassuchagoodspeech;theOppositiondeclaredthereneverwassuchabadone;theSpeakerandmembersoftheHouseofAssemblywithdrewfromthebartosayagreatdealamongthemselvesanddoalittle:and,inshort,everythingwenton,andpromisedtogoon,justasitdoesathomeuponthelikeoccasions。
Thetownisbuiltonthesideofahill,thehighestpointbeingcommandedbyastrongfortress,notyetquitefinished。Severalstreetsofgoodbreadthandappearanceextendfromitssummittothewater-side,andareintersectedbycrossstreetsrunningparallelwiththeriver。Thehousesarechieflyofwood。Themarketisabundantlysupplied;andprovisionsareexceedinglycheap。Theweatherbeingunusuallymildatthattimefortheseasonoftheyear,therewasnosleighing:buttherewereplentyofthosevehiclesinyardsandby-places,andsomeofthem,fromthegorgeousqualityoftheirdecorations,mighthave'goneon'
withoutalterationastriumphalcarsinamelodramaatAstley's。
Thedaywasuncommonlyfine;theairbracingandhealthful;thewholeaspectofthetowncheerful,thriving,andindustrious。
Welaytheresevenhours,todeliverandexchangethemails。Atlength,havingcollectedallourbagsandallourpassengersincludingtwoorthreechoicespirits,who,havingindulgedtoofreelyinoystersandchampagne,werefoundlyinginsensibleontheirbacksinunfrequentedstreets,theengineswereagainputinmotion,andwestoodoffforBoston。
EncounteringsquallyweatheragainintheBayofFundy,wetumbledandrolledaboutasusualallthatnightandallnextday。Onthenextafternoon,thatistosay,onSaturday,thetwenty-secondofJanuary,anAmericanpilot-boatcamealongside,andsoonafterwardstheBritanniasteam-packet,fromLiverpool,eighteendaysout,wastelegraphedatBoston。
TheindescribableinterestwithwhichIstrainedmyeyes,asthefirstpatchesofAmericansoilpeepedlikemolehillsfromthegreensea,andfollowedthem,astheyswelled,byslowandalmostimperceptibledegrees,intoacontinuouslineofcoast,canhardlybeexaggerated。Asharpkeenwindblewdeadagainstus;ahardfrostprevailedonshore;andthecoldwasmostsevere。Yettheairwassointenselyclear,anddry,andbright,thatthetemperaturewasnotonlyendurable,butdelicious。
HowIremainedondeck,staringaboutme,untilwecamealongsidethedock,andhow,thoughIhadhadasmanyeyesasArgus,Ishouldhavehadthemallwideopen,andallemployedonnewobjects-aretopicswhichIwillnotprolongthischaptertodiscuss。NeitherwillImorethanhintatmyforeigner-likemistakeinsupposingthatapartyofmostactivepersons,whoscrambledonboardattheperiloftheirlivesasweapproachedthewharf,werenewsmen,answeringtothatindustriousclassathome;whereas,despitetheleathernwalletsofnewsslungaboutthenecksofsome,andthebroadsheetsinthehandsofall,theywereEditors,whoboardedshipsinpersonasonegentlemaninaworstedcomforterinformedme,'becausetheylikedtheexcitementofit。'Sufficeitinthisplacetosay,thatoneoftheseinvaders,withareadycourtesyforwhichIthankhimheremostgratefully,wentonbeforetoorderroomsatthehotel;andthatwhenIfollowed,asIsoondid,I
foundmyselfrollingthroughthelongpassageswithaninvoluntaryimitationofthegaitofMr。T。P。Cooke,inanewnauticalmelodrama。
'Dinner,ifyouplease,'saidItothewaiter。
'When?'saidthewaiter。
'Asquickaspossible,'saidI。
'Rightaway?'saidthewaiter。
Afteramoment'shesitation,Ianswered'No,'athazard。
'NOTrightaway?'criedthewaiter,withanamountofsurprisethatmademestart。
Ilookedathimdoubtfully,andreturned,'No;Iwouldratherhaveitinthisprivateroom。Ilikeitverymuch。'
Atthis,Ireallythoughtthewaitermusthavegoneoutofhismind:asIbelievehewouldhavedone,butfortheinterpositionofanotherman,whowhisperedinhisear,'Directly。'
'Well!andthat'safact!'saidthewaiter,lookinghelplesslyatme:'Rightaway。'
Isawnowthat'Rightaway'and'Directly'wereoneandthesamething。SoIreversedmypreviousanswer,andsatdowntodinnerintenminutesafterwards;andacapitaldinneritwas。
ThehotelaveryexcellentoneiscalledtheTremontHouse。Ithasmoregalleries,colonnades,piazzas,andpassagesthanIcanremember,orthereaderwouldbelieve。
CHAPTERIII-BOSTON
INallthepublicestablishmentsofAmerica,theutmostcourtesyprevails。MostofourDepartmentsaresusceptibleofconsiderableimprovementinthisrespect,buttheCustom-houseaboveallotherswoulddowelltotakeexamplefromtheUnitedStatesandrenderitselfsomewhatlessodiousandoffensivetoforeigners。TheservilerapacityoftheFrenchofficialsissufficientlycontemptible;butthereisasurlyboorishincivilityaboutourmen,alikedisgustingtoallpersonswhofallintotheirhands,anddiscreditabletothenationthatkeepssuchill-conditionedcurssnarlingaboutitsgates。
WhenIlandedinAmerica,IcouldnothelpbeingstronglyimpressedwiththecontrasttheirCustom-housepresented,andtheattention,politenessandgoodhumourwithwhichitsofficersdischargedtheirduty。
AswedidnotlandatBoston,inconsequenceofsomedetentionatthewharf,untilafterdark,IreceivedmyfirstimpressionsofthecityinwalkingdowntotheCustom-houseonthemorningafterourarrival,whichwasSunday。Iamafraidtosay,bytheway,howmanyoffersofpewsandseatsinchurchforthatmorningweremadetous,byformalnoteofinvitation,beforewehadhalffinishedourfirstdinnerinAmerica,butifImaybeallowedtomakeamoderateguess,withoutgoingintonicercalculation,Ishouldsaythatatleastasmanysittingswereprofferedus,aswouldhaveaccommodatedascoreortwoofgrown-upfamilies。Thenumberofcreedsandformsofreligiontowhichthepleasureofourcompanywasrequested,wasinveryfairproportion。
Notbeingable,intheabsenceofanychangeofclothes,togotochurchthatday,wewerecompelledtodeclinethesekindnesses,oneandall;andIwasreluctantlyobligedtoforegothedelightofhearingDr。Channing,whohappenedtopreachthatmorningforthefirsttimeinaverylonginterval。ImentionthenameofthisdistinguishedandaccomplishedmanwithwhomIsoonafterwardshadthepleasureofbecomingpersonallyacquainted,thatImayhavethegratificationofrecordingmyhumbletributeofadmirationandrespectforhishighabilitiesandcharacter;andfortheboldphilanthropywithwhichhehaseveropposedhimselftothatmosthideousblotandfouldisgrace-Slavery。
ToreturntoBoston。WhenIgotintothestreetsuponthisSundaymorning,theairwassoclear,thehousesweresobrightandgay:
thesignboardswerepaintedinsuchgaudycolours;thegildedlettersweresoverygolden;thebricksweresoveryred,thestonewassoverywhite,theblindsandarearailingsweresoverygreen,theknobsandplatesuponthestreetdoorssomarvellouslybrightandtwinkling;andallsoslightandunsubstantialinappearance-
thateverythoroughfareinthecitylookedexactlylikeasceneinapantomime。Itrarelyhappensinthebusinessstreetsthatatradesman,ifImayventuretocallanybodyatradesman,whereeverybodyisamerchant,residesabovehisstore;sothatmanyoccupationsareoftencarriedoninonehouse,andthewholefrontiscoveredwithboardsandinscriptions。AsIwalkedalong,Ikeptglancingupattheseboards,confidentlyexpectingtoseeafewofthemchangeintosomething;andIneverturnedacornersuddenlywithoutlookingoutfortheclownandpantaloon,who,Ihadnodoubt,werehidinginadoorwayorbehindsomepillarcloseathand。AstoHarlequinandColumbine,Idiscoveredimmediatelythattheylodgedtheyarealwayslookingafterlodgingsinapantomime
ataverysmallclockmaker'sonestoryhigh,nearthehotel;which,inadditiontovarioussymbolsanddevices,almostcoveringthewholefront,hadagreatdialhangingout-tobejumpedthrough,ofcourse。
Thesuburbsare,ifpossible,evenmoreunsubstantial-lookingthanthecity。Thewhitewoodenhousessowhitethatitmakesonewinktolookatthem,withtheirgreenjalousieblinds,aresosprinkledanddroppedaboutinalldirections,withoutseemingtohaveanyrootatallintheground;andthesmallchurchesandchapelsaresoprim,andbright,andhighlyvarnished;thatI
almostbelievedthewholeaffaircouldbetakenuppiecemeallikeachild'stoy,andcrammedintoalittlebox。
Thecityisabeautifulone,andcannotfail,Ishouldimagine,toimpressallstrangersveryfavourably。Theprivatedwelling-housesare,forthemostpart,largeandelegant;theshopsextremelygood;andthepublicbuildingshandsome。TheStateHouseisbuiltuponthesummitofahill,whichrisesgraduallyatfirst,andafterwardsbyasteepascent,almostfromthewater'sedge。Infrontisagreenenclosure,calledtheCommon。Thesiteisbeautiful:andfromthetopthereisacharmingpanoramicviewofthewholetownandneighbourhood。Inadditiontoavarietyofcommodiousoffices,itcontainstwohandsomechambers;inonetheHouseofRepresentativesoftheStateholdtheirmeetings:intheother,theSenate。SuchproceedingsasIsawhere,wereconductedwithperfectgravityanddecorum;andwerecertainlycalculatedtoinspireattentionandrespect。
ThereisnodoubtthatmuchoftheintellectualrefinementandsuperiorityofBoston,isreferabletothequietinfluenceoftheUniversityofCambridge,whichiswithinthreeorfourmilesofthecity。Theresidentprofessorsatthatuniversityaregentlemenoflearningandvariedattainments;andare,withoutoneexceptionthatIcancalltomind,menwhowouldshedagraceupon,anddohonourto,anysocietyinthecivilisedworld。ManyoftheresidentgentryinBostonanditsneighbourhood,andIthinkIamnotmistakeninadding,alargemajorityofthosewhoareattachedtotheliberalprofessionsthere,havebeeneducatedatthissameschool。WhateverthedefectsofAmericanuniversitiesmaybe,theydisseminatenoprejudices;rearnobigots;diguptheburiedashesofnooldsuperstitions;neverinterposebetweenthepeopleandtheirimprovement;excludenomanbecauseofhisreligiousopinions;aboveall,intheirwholecourseofstudyandinstruction,recogniseaworld,andabroadonetoo,lyingbeyondthecollegewalls。
Itwasasourceofinexpressiblepleasuretometoobservethealmostimperceptible,butnotlesscertaineffect,wroughtbythisinstitutionamongthesmallcommunityofBoston;andtonoteateveryturnthehumanisingtastesanddesiresithasengendered;theaffectionatefriendshipstowhichithasgivenrise;theamountofvanityandprejudiceithasdispelled。ThegoldencalftheyworshipatBostonisapigmycomparedwiththegianteffigiessetupinotherpartsofthatvastcounting-housewhichliesbeyondtheAtlantic;andthealmightydollarsinksintosomethingcomparativelyinsignificant,amidstawholePantheonofbettergods。
Aboveall,IsincerelybelievethatthepublicinstitutionsandcharitiesofthiscapitalofMassachusettsareasnearlyperfect,asthemostconsideratewisdom,benevolence,andhumanity,canmakethem。Ineverinmylifewasmoreaffectedbythecontemplationofhappiness,undercircumstancesofprivationandbereavement,thaninmyvisitstotheseestablishments。
ItisagreatandpleasantfeatureofallsuchinstitutionsinAmerica,thattheyareeithersupportedbytheStateorassistedbytheState;orintheeventoftheirnotneedingitshelpinghand
thattheyactinconcertwithit,andareemphaticallythepeople's。Icannotbutthink,withaviewtotheprincipleanditstendencytoelevateordepressthecharacteroftheindustriousclasses,thataPublicCharityisimmeasurablybetterthanaPrivateFoundation,nomatterhowmunificentlythelattermaybeendowed。Inourowncountry,whereithasnot,untilwithintheselaterdays,beenaverypopularfashionwithgovernmentstodisplayanyextraordinaryregardforthegreatmassofthepeopleortorecognisetheirexistenceasimprovablecreatures,privatecharities,unexampledinthehistoryoftheearth,havearisen,todoanincalculableamountofgoodamongthedestituteandafflicted。Butthegovernmentofthecountry,havingneitheractnorpartinthem,isnotinthereceiptofanyportionofthegratitudetheyinspire;and,offeringverylittleshelterorreliefbeyondthatwhichistobefoundintheworkhouseandthejail,hascome,notunnaturally,tobelookeduponbythepoorratherasasternmaster,quicktocorrectandpunish,thanakindprotector,mercifulandvigilantintheirhourofneed。
Themaximthatoutofevilcomethgood,isstronglyillustratedbytheseestablishmentsathome;astherecordsofthePrerogativeOfficeinDoctors'Commonscanabundantlyprove。Someimmenselyricholdgentlemanorlady,surroundedbyneedyrelatives,makes,uponalowaverage,awilla-week。Theoldgentlemanorlady,neververyremarkableinthebestoftimesforgoodtemper,isfullofachesandpainsfromheadtofoot;fulloffanciesandcaprices;
fullofspleen,distrust,suspicion,anddislike。Tocanceloldwills,andinventnewones,isatlastthesolebusinessofsuchatestator'sexistence;andrelationsandfriendssomeofwhomhavebeenbredupdistinctlytoinheritalargeshareoftheproperty,andhavebeen,fromtheircradles,speciallydisqualifiedfromdevotingthemselvestoanyusefulpursuit,onthataccountaresooftenandsounexpectedlyandsummarilycutoff,andreinstated,andcutoffagain,thatthewholefamily,downtotheremotestcousin,iskeptinaperpetualfever。Atlengthitbecomesplainthattheoldladyorgentlemanhasnotlongtolive;andtheplainerthisbecomes,themoreclearlytheoldladyorgentlemanperceivesthateverybodyisinaconspiracyagainsttheirpoorolddyingrelative;whereforetheoldladyorgentlemanmakesanotherlastwill-positivelythelastthistime-concealsthesameinachinateapot,andexpiresnextday。Thenitturnsout,thatthewholeoftherealandpersonalestateisdividedbetweenhalf-a-
dozencharities;andthatthedeadandgonetestatorhasinpurespitehelpedtodoagreatdealofgood,atthecostofanimmenseamountofevilpassionandmisery。
ThePerkinsInstitutionandMassachusettsAsylumfortheBlind,atBoston,issuperintendedbyabodyoftrusteeswhomakeanannualreporttothecorporation。Theindigentblindofthatstateareadmittedgratuitously。ThosefromtheadjoiningstateofConnecticut,orfromthestatesofMaine,Vermont,orNewHampshire,areadmittedbyawarrantfromthestatetowhichtheyrespectivelybelong;or,failingthat,mustfindsecurityamongtheirfriends,forthepaymentofabouttwentypoundsEnglishfortheirfirstyear'sboardandinstruction,andtenforthesecond。
'Afterthefirstyear,'saythetrustees,'anaccountcurrentwillbeopenedwitheachpupil;hewillbechargedwiththeactualcostofhisboard,whichwillnotexceedtwodollarsperweek;'atriflemorethaneightshillingsEnglish;'andhewillbecreditedwiththeamountpaidforhimbythestate,orbyhisfriends;alsowithhisearningsoverandabovethecostofthestockwhichheuses;sothatallhisearningsoveronedollarperweekwillbehisown。Bythethirdyearitwillbeknownwhetherhisearningswillmorethanpaytheactualcostofhisboard;iftheyshould,hewillhaveitathisoptiontoremainandreceivehisearnings,ornot。Thosewhoproveunabletoearntheirownlivelihoodwillnotberetained;
asitisnotdesirabletoconverttheestablishmentintoanalms-
house,ortoretainanybutworkingbeesinthehive。Thosewhobyphysicalormentalimbecilityaredisqualifiedfromwork,aretherebydisqualifiedfrombeingmembersofanindustriouscommunity;andtheycanbebetterprovidedforinestablishmentsfittedfortheinfirm。'
Iwenttoseethisplaceoneveryfinewintermorning:anItalianskyabove,andtheairsoclearandbrightoneveryside,thatevenmyeyes,whicharenoneofthebest,couldfollowtheminutelinesandscrapsoftraceryindistantbuildings。LikemostotherpublicinstitutionsinAmerica,ofthesameclass,itstandsamileortwowithoutthetown,inacheerfulhealthyspot;andisanairy,spacious,handsomeedifice。Itisbuiltuponaheight,commandingtheharbour。WhenIpausedforamomentatthedoor,andmarkedhowfreshandfreethewholescenewas-whatsparklingbubblesglanceduponthewaves,andwelledupeverymomenttothesurface,asthoughtheworldbelow,likethatabove,wereradiantwiththebrightday,andgushingoverinitsfulnessoflight:whenIgazedfromsailtosailawayuponashipatsea,atinyspeckofshiningwhite,theonlyclouduponthestill,deep,distantblue-and,turning,sawablindboywithhissightlessfaceaddressedthatway,asthoughhetoohadsomesensewithinhimofthegloriousdistance:Ifeltakindofsorrowthattheplaceshouldbesoverylight,andastrangewishthatforhissakeitweredarker。Itwasbutmomentary,ofcourse,andamerefancy,butIfeltitkeenlyforallthat。
Thechildrenwereattheirdailytasksindifferentrooms,exceptafewwhowerealreadydismissed,andwereatplay。Here,asinmanyinstitutions,nouniformisworn;andIwasverygladofit,fortworeasons。Firstly,becauseIamsurethatnothingbutsenselesscustomandwantofthoughtwouldreconcileustotheliveriesandbadgeswearesofondofathome。Secondly,becausetheabsenceofthesethingspresentseachchildtothevisitorinhisorherownpropercharacter,withitsindividualityunimpaired;notlostinadull,ugly,monotonousrepetitionofthesameunmeaninggarb:
whichisreallyanimportantconsideration。Thewisdomofencouragingalittleharmlessprideinpersonalappearanceevenamongtheblind,orthewhimsicalabsurdityofconsideringcharityandleatherbreechesinseparablecompanions,aswedo,requiresnocomment。