tohavethesesocialsacramentsstrippedofeverythingbutthemeregreedysatisfactionofthenaturalcravings；goessoagainstthegrainwithme，thatIseriouslybelievetherecollectionofthesefuneralfeastswillbeawakingnightmaretomeallmylife。
Therewassomereliefinthisboat，too，whichtherehadnotbeenintheother，forthecaptainablunt，good-naturedfellowhadhishandsomewifewithhim，whowasdisposedtobelivelyandagreeable，aswereafewotherlady-passengerswhohadtheirseatsaboutusatthesameendofthetable。Butnothingcouldhavemadeheadagainstthedepressinginfluenceofthegeneralbody。Therewasamagnetismofdulnessinthemwhichwouldhavebeatendownthemostfacetiouscompanionthattheeartheverknew。Ajestwouldhavebeenacrime，andasmilewouldhavefadedintoagrinninghorror。Suchdeadly，leadenpeople；suchsystematicplodding，weary，insupportableheaviness；suchamassofanimatedindigestioninrespectofallthatwasgenial，jovial，frank，social，orhearty；never，sure，wasbroughttogetherelsewheresincetheworldbegan。
Norwasthescenery，asweapproachedthejunctionoftheOhioandMississippirivers，atallinspiritinginitsinfluence。Thetreeswerestuntedintheirgrowth；thebankswerelowandflat；thesettlementsandlogcabinsfewerinnumber:theirinhabitantsmorewanandwretchedthananywehadencounteredyet。Nosongsofbirdswereintheair，nopleasantscents，nomovinglightsandshadowsfromswiftpassingclouds。Hourafterhour，thechangelessglareofthehot，unwinkingsky，shoneuponthesamemonotonousobjects。Hourafterhour，theriverrolledalong，aswearilyandslowlyasthetimeitself。
Atlength，uponthemorningofthethirdday，wearrivedataspotsomuchmoredesolatethananywehadyetbeheld，thattheforlornestplaceswehadpassed，were，incomparisonwithit，fullofinterest。Atthejunctionofthetworivers，ongroundsoflatandlowandmarshy，thatatcertainseasonsoftheyearitisinundatedtothehouse-tops，liesabreeding-placeoffever，ague，anddeath；vauntedinEnglandasamineofGoldenHope，andspeculatedin，onthefaithofmonstrousrepresentations，tomanypeople'sruin。Adismalswamp，onwhichthehalf-builthousesrotaway:clearedhereandthereforthespaceofafewyards；andteeming，then，withrankunwholesomevegetation，inwhosebalefulshadethewretchedwandererswhoaretemptedhither，droop，anddie，andlaytheirbones；thehatefulMississippicirclingandeddyingbeforeit，andturningoffuponitssoutherncourseaslimymonsterhideoustobehold；ahotbedofdisease，anuglysepulchre，agraveuncheeredbyanygleamofpromise:aplacewithoutonesinglequality，inearthorairorwater，tocommendit:suchisthisdismalCairo。
ButwhatwordsshalldescribetheMississippi，greatfatherofrivers，whopraisebetoHeavenhasnoyoungchildrenlikehim!
Anenormousditch，sometimestwoorthreemileswide，runningliquidmud，sixmilesanhour:itsstrongandfrothycurrentchokedandobstructedeverywherebyhugelogsandwholeforesttrees:nowtwiningthemselvestogetheringreatrafts，fromtheintersticesofwhichasedgy，lazyfoamworksup，tofloatuponthewater'stop；nowrollingpastlikemonstrousbodies，theirtangledrootsshowinglikemattedhair；nowglancingsinglybylikegiantleeches；andnowwrithingroundandroundinthevortexofsomesmallwhirlpool，likewoundedsnakes。Thebankslow，thetreesdwarfish，themarshesswarmingwithfrogs，thewretchedcabinsfewandfarapart，theirinmateshollow-cheekedandpale，theweatherveryhot，mosquitoespenetratingintoeverycrackandcreviceoftheboat，mudandslimeoneverything:nothingpleasantinitsaspect，buttheharmlesslightningwhichflickerseverynightuponthedarkhorizon。
Fortwodayswetoiledupthisfoulstream，strikingconstantlyagainstthefloatingtimber，orstoppingtoavoidthosemoredangerousobstacles，thesnags，orsawyers，whicharethehiddentrunksoftreesthathavetheirrootsbelowthetide。Whenthenightsareverydark，thelook-outstationedintheheadoftheboat，knowsbytherippleofthewaterifanygreatimpedimentbenearathand，andringsabellbesidehim，whichisthesignalfortheenginetobestopped:butalwaysinthenightthisbellhasworktodo，andaftereveryring，therecomesablowwhichrendersitnoeasymattertoremaininbed。
Thedeclineofdayherewasverygorgeous；tingeingthefirmamentdeeplywithredandgold，uptotheverykeystoneofthearchaboveus。Asthesunwentdownbehindthebank，theslightestbladesofgrassuponitseemedtobecomeasdistinctlyvisibleasthearteriesintheskeletonofaleaf；andwhen，asitslowlysank，theredandgoldenbarsuponthewatergrewdimmer，anddimmeryet，asiftheyweresinkingtoo；andalltheglowingcoloursofdepartingdaypaled，inchbyinch，beforethesombrenight；thescenebecameathousandtimesmorelonesomeandmoredrearythanbefore，andallitsinfluencesdarkenedwiththesky。
Wedrankthemuddywaterofthisriverwhilewewereuponit。Itisconsideredwholesomebythenatives，andissomethingmoreopaquethangruel。IhaveseenwaterlikeitattheFilter-shops，butnowhereelse。
OnthefourthnightafterleavingLouisville，wereachedSt。Louis，andhereIwitnessedtheconclusionofanincident，triflingenoughinitself，butverypleasanttosee，whichhadinterestedmeduringthewholejourney。
Therewasalittlewomanonboard，withalittlebaby；andbothlittlewomanandlittlechildwerecheerful，good-looking，bright-
eyed，andfairtosee。ThelittlewomanhadbeenpassingalongtimewithhersickmotherinNewYork，andhadleftherhomeinSt。
Louis，inthatconditioninwhichladieswhotrulylovetheirlordsdesiretobe。Thebabywasborninhermother'shouse；andshehadnotseenherhusbandtowhomshewasnowreturning，fortwelvemonths:havinglefthimamonthortwoaftertheirmarriage。
Well，tobesure，thereneverwasalittlewomansofullofhope，andtenderness，andlove，andanxiety，asthislittlewomanwas:
andalldaylongshewonderedwhether'He'wouldbeatthewharf；
andwhether'He'hadgotherletter；andwhether，ifshesentthebabyashorebysomebodyelse，'He'wouldknowit，meetingitinthestreet:which，seeingthathehadneverseteyesuponitinhislife，wasnotverylikelyintheabstract，butwasprobableenough，totheyoungmother。Shewassuchanartlesslittlecreature；andwasinsuchasunny，beaming，hopefulstate；andletoutallthismatterclingingcloseaboutherheart，sofreely；thatalltheotherladypassengersenteredintothespiritofitasmuchasshe；
andthecaptainwhoheardallaboutitfromhiswifewaswondroussly，Ipromiseyou:inquiring，everytimewemetattable，asinforgetfulness，whethersheexpectedanybodytomeetheratSt。
Louis，andwhethershewouldwanttogoashorethenightwereacheditbuthesupposedshewouldn't，andcuttingmanyotherdryjokesofthatnature。Therewasonelittleweazen，dried-apple-facedoldwoman，whotookoccasiontodoubttheconstancyofhusbandsinsuchcircumstancesofbereavement；andtherewasanotherladywithalap-dogoldenoughtomoralizeonthelightnessofhumanaffections，andyetnotsooldthatshecouldhelpnursingthebaby，nowandthen，orlaughingwiththerest，whenthelittlewomancalleditbyitsfather'sname，andaskeditallmanneroffantasticquestionsconcerninghiminthejoyofherheart。
Itwassomethingofablowtothelittlewoman，thatwhenwewerewithintwentymilesofourdestination，itbecameclearlynecessarytoputthisbabytobed。Butshegotoveritwiththesamegoodhumour；tiedahandkerchiefroundherhead；andcameoutintothelittlegallerywiththerest。Then，suchanoracleasshebecameinreferencetothelocalities!andsuchfacetiousnessaswasdisplayedbythemarriedladies!andsuchsympathyaswasshownbythesingleones!andsuchpealsoflaughterasthelittlewomanherselfwhowouldjustassoonhavecriedgreetedeveryjestwith!
Atlast，therewerethelightsofSt。Louis，andherewasthewharf，andthosewerethesteps:andthelittlewomancoveringherfacewithherhands，andlaughingorseemingtolaughmorethanever，ranintoherowncabin，andshutherselfup。Ihavenodoubtthatinthecharminginconsistencyofsuchexcitement，shestoppedherears，lestsheshouldhear'Him'askingforher:butIdidnotseeherdoit。
Then，agreatcrowdofpeoplerushedonboard，thoughtheboatwasnotyetmadefast，butwaswanderingabout，amongtheotherboats，tofindalanding-place:andeverybodylookedforthehusband:
andnobodysawhim:when，inthemidstofusall-Heavenknowshowsheevergotthere-therewasthelittlewomanclingingwithbotharmstightroundtheneckofafine，good-looking，sturdyyoungfellow!andinamomentafterwards，thereshewasagain，actuallyclappingherlittlehandsforjoy，asshedraggedhimthroughthesmalldoorofhersmallcabin，tolookatthebabyashelayasleep!
Wewenttoalargehotel，calledthePlanter'sHouse:builtlikeanEnglishhospital，withlongpassagesandbarewalls，andsky-
lightsabovetheroom-doorsforthefreecirculationofair。Therewereagreatmanyboardersinit；andasmanylightssparkledandglistenedfromthewindowsdownintothestreetbelow，whenwedroveup，asifithadbeenilluminatedonsomeoccasionofrejoicing。Itisanexcellenthouse，andtheproprietorshavemostbountifulnotionsofprovidingthecreaturecomforts。Diningalonewithmywifeinourownroom，oneday，Icountedfourteendishesonthetableatonce。
IntheoldFrenchportionofthetown，thethoroughfaresarenarrowandcrooked，andsomeofthehousesareveryquaintandpicturesque:beingbuiltofwood，withtumble-downgalleriesbeforethewindows，approachablebystairsorratherladdersfromthestreet。Therearequeerlittlebarbers'shopsanddrinking-
housestoo，inthisquarter；andabundanceofcrazyoldtenementswithblinkingcasements，suchasmaybeseeninFlanders。Someoftheseancienthabitations，withhighgarretgable-windowsperkingintotheroofs，haveakindofFrenchshrugaboutthem；andbeinglop-sidedwithage，appeartoholdtheirheadsaskew，besides，asiftheyweregrimacinginastonishmentattheAmericanImprovements。
Itishardlynecessarytosay，thattheseconsistofwharfsandwarehouses，andnewbuildingsinalldirections；andofagreatmanyvastplanswhicharestill'progressing。'Already，however，someverygoodhouses，broadstreets，andmarble-frontedshops，havegonesofaraheadastobeinastateofcompletion；andthetownbidsfairinafewyearstoimproveconsiderably:thoughitisnotlikelyevertovie，inpointofeleganceorbeauty，withCincinnati。
TheRomanCatholicreligion，introducedherebytheearlyFrenchsettlers，prevailsextensively。AmongthepublicinstitutionsareaJesuitcollege；aconventfor'theLadiesoftheSacredHeart；'
andalargechapelattachedtothecollege，whichwasincourseoferectionatthetimeofmyvisit，andwasintendedtobeconsecratedonthesecondofDecemberinthenextyear。Thearchitectofthisbuilding，isoneofthereverendfathersoftheschool，andtheworksproceedunderhissoledirection。TheorganwillbesentfromBelgium。
Inadditiontotheseestablishments，thereisaRomanCatholiccathedral，dedicatedtoSaintFrancisXavier；andahospital，foundedbythemunificenceofadeceasedresident，whowasamemberofthatchurch。ItalsosendsmissionariesfromhenceamongtheIndiantribes。
TheUnitarianchurchisrepresented，inthisremoteplace，asinmostotherpartsofAmerica，byagentlemanofgreatworthandexcellence。Thepoorhavegoodreasontorememberandblessit；
foritbefriendsthem，andaidsthecauseofrationaleducation，withoutanysectarianorselfishviews。Itisliberalinallitsactions；ofkindconstruction；andofwidebenevolence。
Therearethreefree-schoolsalreadyerected，andinfulloperationinthiscity。Afourthisbuilding，andwillsoonbeopened。
Nomaneveradmitstheunhealthinessoftheplacehedwellsinunlessheisgoingawayfromit，andIshalltherefore，Ihavenodoubt，beatissuewiththeinhabitantsofSt。Louis，inquestioningtheperfectsalubrityofitsclimate，andinhintingthatIthinkitmustratherdisposetofever，inthesummerandautumnalseasons。Justadding，thatitisveryhot，liesamonggreatrivers，andhasvasttractsofundrainedswampylandaroundit，Ileavethereadertoformhisownopinion。
AsIhadagreatdesiretoseeaPrairiebeforeturningbackfromthefurthestpointofmywanderings；andassomegentlemenofthetownhad，intheirhospitableconsideration，anequaldesiretogratifyme；adaywasfixed，beforemydeparture，foranexpeditiontotheLooking-GlassPrairie，whichiswithinthirtymilesofthetown。Deemingitpossiblethatmyreadersmaynotobjecttoknowwhatkindofthingsuchagipsypartymaybeatthatdistancefromhome，andamongwhatsortofobjectsitmoves，Iwilldescribethejauntinanotherchapter。
CHAPTERXIII-AJAUNTTOTHELOOKING-GLASSPRAIRIEANDBACK
IMAYpremisethatthewordPrairieisvariouslypronouncedPARAAER，PAREARER，PAROARER。Thelattermodeofpronunciationisperhapsthemostinfavour。
Wewerefourteeninall，andallyoungmen:indeeditisasingularthoughverynaturalfeatureinthesocietyofthesedistantsettlements，thatitismainlycomposedofadventurouspersonsintheprimeoflife，andhasveryfewgreyheadsamongit。
Therewerenoladies:thetripbeingafatiguingone:andweweretostartatfiveo'clockinthemorningpunctually。
Iwascalledatfour，thatImightbecertainofkeepingnobodywaiting；andhavinggotsomebreadandmilkforbreakfast，threwupthewindowandlookeddownintothestreet，expectingtoseethewholepartybusilyastir，andgreatpreparationsgoingonbelow。
Butaseverythingwasveryquiet，andthestreetpresentedthathopelessaspectwithwhichfiveo'clockinthemorningisfamiliarelsewhere，Ideemeditaswelltogotobedagain，andwentaccordingly。
Iwokeagainatseveno'clock，andbythattimethepartyhadassembled，andweregatheredround，onelightcarriage，withaverystoutaxletree；onesomethingonwheelslikeanamateurcarrier'scart；onedoublephaetonofgreatantiquityandunearthlyconstruction；onegigwithagreatholeinitsbackandabrokenhead；andonerideronhorsebackwhowastogoonbefore。Igotintothefirstcoachwiththreecompanions；therestbestowedthemselvesintheothervehicles；twolargebasketsweremadefasttothelightest；twolargestonejarsinwickercases，technicallyknownasdemi-johns，wereconsignedtothe'leastrowdy'ofthepartyforsafe-keeping；andtheprocessionmovedofftotheferryboat，inwhichitwastocrosstheriverbodily，men，horses，carriages，andall，asthemannerinthesepartsis。
Wegotovertheriverinduecourse，andmusteredagainbeforealittlewoodenboxonwheels，hovedownallaslantinamorass，with'MERCHANTTAILOR'paintedinverylargelettersoverthedoor。
Havingsettledtheorderofproceeding，andtheroadtobetaken，westartedoffoncemoreandbegantomakeourwaythroughanill-
favouredBlackHollow，called，lessexpressively，theAmericanBottom。
Thepreviousdayhadbeen-nottosayhot，forthetermisweakandlukewarminitspowerofconveyinganideaofthetemperature。
Thetownhadbeenonfire；inablaze。Butatnightithadcomeontorainintorrents，andallnightlongithadrainedwithoutcessation。Wehadapairofverystronghorses，buttravelledattherateoflittlemorethanacoupleofmilesanhour，throughoneunbrokensloughofblackmudandwater。Ithadnovarietybutindepth。Nowitwasonlyhalfoverthewheels，nowithidtheaxletree，andnowthecoachsankdowninitalmosttothewindows。
Theairresoundedinalldirectionswiththeloudchirpingofthefrogs，who，withthepigsacoarse，uglybreed，asunwholesome-
lookingasthoughtheywerethespontaneousgrowthofthecountry，hadthewholescenetothemselves。Hereandtherewepassedaloghut:butthewretchedcabinswerewideapartandthinlyscattered，forthoughthesoilisveryrichinthisplace，fewpeoplecanexistinsuchadeadlyatmosphere。Oneithersideofthetrack，ifitdeservethename，wasthethick'bush；'andeverywherewasstagnant，slimy，rotten，filthywater。
Asitisthecustominthesepartstogiveahorseagallonorsoofcoldwaterwheneverheisinafoamwithheat，wehaltedforthatpurpose，ataloginninthewood，farremovedfromanyotherresidence。Itconsistedofoneroom，bare-roofedandbare-walledofcourse，withaloftabove。Theministeringpriestwasaswarthyyoungsavage，inashirtofcottonprintlikebed-furniture，andapairofraggedtrousers。Therewereacoupleofyoungboys，too，nearlynaked，lyingidlebythewell；andthey，andhe，andTHE
travellerattheinn，turnedouttolookatus。
Thetravellerwasanoldmanwithagreygristlybeardtwoincheslong，ashaggymoustacheofthesamehue，andenormouseyebrows；
whichalmostobscuredhislazy，semi-drunkenglance，ashestoodregardinguswithfoldedarms:poisinghimselfalternatelyuponhistoesandheels。Onbeingaddressedbyoneoftheparty，hedrewnearer，andsaid，rubbinghischinwhichscrapedunderhishornyhandlikefreshgravelbeneathanailedshoe，thathewasfromDelaware，andhadlatelyboughtafarm'downthere，'pointingintooneofthemarsheswherethestuntedtreeswerethickest。Hewas'going，'headded，toSt。Louis，tofetchhisfamily，whomhehadleftbehind；butheseemedinnogreathurrytobringontheseincumbrances，forwhenwemovedaway，heloiteredbackintothecabin，andwasplainlybentonstoppingtheresolongashismoneylasted。Hewasagreatpoliticianofcourse，andexplainedhisopinionsatsomelengthtooneofourcompany；butIonlyrememberthatheconcludedwithtwosentiments，oneofwhichwas，Somebodyforever；andtheother，Blasteverybodyelse!whichisbynomeansabadabstractofthegeneralcreedinthesematters。
Whenthehorseswereswollenouttoabouttwicetheirnaturaldimensionsthereseemstobeanideahere，thatthiskindofinflationimprovestheirgoing，wewentforwardagain，throughmudandmire，anddamp，andfesteringheat，andbrakeandbush，attendedalwaysbythemusicofthefrogsandpigs，untilnearlynoon，whenwehaltedataplacecalledBelleville。
Bellevillewasasmallcollectionofwoodenhouses，huddledtogetherintheveryheartofthebushandswamp。Manyofthemhadsingularlybrightdoorsofredandyellow；fortheplacehadbeenlatelyvisitedbyatravellingpainter，'whogotalong，'asIwastold，'byeatinghisway。'Thecriminalcourtwassitting，andwasatthatmomenttryingsomecriminalsforhorse-stealing:withwhomitwouldmostlikelygohard:forlivestockofallkindsbeingnecessarilyverymuchexposedinthewoods，isheldbythecommunityinratherhighervaluethanhumanlife；andforthisreason，juriesgenerallymakeapointoffindingallmenindictedforcattle-stealing，guilty，whetherorno。
Thehorsesbelongingtothebar，thejudge，andwitnesses，weretiedtotemporaryrackssetuproughlyintheroad；bywhichistobeunderstood，aforestpath，nearlyknee-deepinmudandslime。
Therewasanhotelinthisplace，which，likeallhotelsinAmerica，haditslargedining-roomforthepublictable。Itwasanodd，shambling，low-roofedout-house，half-cowshedandhalf-
kitchen，withacoarsebrowncanvastable-cloth，andtinsconcesstuckagainstthewalls，toholdcandlesatsupper-time。Thehorsemanhadgoneforwardtohavecoffeeandsomeeatablesprepared，andtheywerebythistimenearlyready。Hehadordered'wheat-breadandchickenfixings，'inpreferenceto'corn-breadandcommondoings。'Thelatterkindofrejectionincludesonlyporkandbacon。Theformercomprehendsbroiledham，sausages，vealcutlets，steaks，andsuchotherviandsofthatnatureasmaybesupposed，byatolerablywidepoeticalconstruction，'tofix'achickencomfortablyinthedigestiveorgansofanyladyorgentleman。
Ononeofthedoor-postsatthisinn，wasatinplate，whereonwasinscribedincharactersofgold，'DoctorCrocus；'andonasheetofpaper，pastedupbythesideofthisplate，wasawrittenannouncementthatDr。Crocuswouldthateveningdelivera
Thebeditselfwascoveredwithanoldpatch-workcounterpane。Theroomwasdestituteofcarpetorofcurtain。Therewasadampfireplacewithoutanystove，fullofwoodashes；achair，andaverysmalltable；andonthelast-namedpieceoffurniturewasdisplayed，ingrandarray，thedoctor'slibrary，consistingofsomehalf-dozengreasyoldbooks。
Now，itcertainlylookedaboutthelastapartmentonthewholeearthoutofwhichanymanwouldbelikelytogetanythingtodohimgood。Butthedoor，asIhavesaid，stoodcoaxinglyopen，andplainlysaidinconjunctionwiththechair，theportrait，thetable，andthebooks，'Walkin，gentlemen，walkin!Don'tbeill，gentlemen，whenyoumaybewellinnotime。DoctorCrocusishere，gentlemen，thecelebratedDr。Crocus!Dr。Crocushascomeallthiswaytocureyou，gentlemen。Ifyouhaven'theardofDr。Crocus，it'syourfault，gentlemen，wholivealittlewayoutoftheworldhere:notDr。Crocus's。Walkin，gentlemen，walkin!'
Inthepassagebelow，whenIwentdown-stairsagain，wasDr。Crocushimself。AcrowdhadflockedinfromtheCourtHouse，andavoicefromamongthemcalledouttothelandlord，'Colonel!introduceDoctorCrocus。'
'Mr。Dickens，'saysthecolonel，'DoctorCrocus。'
UponwhichDoctorCrocus，whoisatall，fine-lookingScotchman，butratherfierceandwarlikeinappearanceforaprofessorofthepeacefulartofhealing，burstsoutoftheconcoursewithhisrightarmextended，andhischestthrownoutasfarasitwillpossiblycome，andsays:
'Yourcountryman，sir!'
WhereuponDoctorCrocusandIshakehands；andDoctorCrocuslooksasifIdidn'tbyanymeansrealisehisexpectations，which，inalinenblouse，andagreatstrawhat，withagreenribbon，andnogloves，andmyfaceandnoseprofuselyornamentedwiththestingsofmosquitoesandthebitesofbugs，itisverylikelyIdidnot。
'Longintheseparts，sir？'saysI。
'Threeorfourmonths，sir，'saystheDoctor。
'Doyouthinkofsoonreturningtotheoldcountry？'saysI。
DoctorCrocusmakesnoverbalanswer，butgivesmeanimploringlook，whichsayssoplainly'Willyouaskmethatagain，alittlelouder，ifyouplease？'thatIrepeatthequestion。
'Thinkofsoonreturningtotheoldcountry，sir!'repeatstheDoctor。
'Totheoldcountry，sir，'Irejoin。
DoctorCrocuslooksrounduponthecrowdtoobservetheeffectheproduces，rubshishands，andsays，inaveryloudvoice:
'Notyetawhile，sir，notyet。Youwon'tcatchmeatthatjustyet，sir。IamalittletoofondoffreedomforTHAT，sir。Ha，ha!It'snotsoeasyforamantotearhimselffromafreecountrysuchasthisis，sir。Ha，ha!No，no!Ha，ha!Noneofthattillone'sobligedtodoit，sir。No，no!'
AsDoctorCrocussaystheselatterwords，heshakeshishead，knowingly，andlaughsagain。Manyofthebystandersshaketheirheadsinconcertwiththedoctor，andlaughtoo，andlookateachotherasmuchastosay，'Aprettybrightandfirst-ratesortofchapisCrocus!'andunlessIamverymuchmistaken，agoodmanypeoplewenttothelecturethatnight，whoneverthoughtaboutphrenology，oraboutDoctorCrocuseither，inalltheirlivesbefore。
FromBelleville，wewenton，throughthesamedesolatekindofwaste，andconstantlyattended，withouttheintervalofamoment，bythesamemusic；until，atthreeo'clockintheafternoon，wehaltedoncemoreatavillagecalledLebanontoinflatethehorsesagain，andgivethemsomecornbesides:ofwhichtheystoodmuchinneed。Pendingthisceremony，Iwalkedintothevillage，whereI
metafull-sizeddwelling-housecomingdown-hillataroundtrot，drawnbyascoreormoreofoxen。
Thepublic-housewassoverycleanandgoodaone，thatthemanagersofthejauntresolvedtoreturntoitandputupthereforthenight，ifpossible。Thiscoursedecidedon，andthehorsesbeingwellrefreshed，weagainpushedforward，andcameuponthePrairieatsunset。
Itwouldbedifficulttosaywhy，orhow-thoughitwaspossiblyfromhavingheardandreadsomuchaboutit-buttheeffectonmewasdisappointment。Lookingtowardsthesettingsun，therelay，stretchedoutbeforemyview，avastexpanseoflevelground；
unbroken，savebyonethinlineoftrees，whichscarcelyamountedtoascratchuponthegreatblank；untilitmettheglowingsky，whereinitseemedtodip:minglingwithitsrichcolours，andmellowinginitsdistantblue。Thereitlay，atranquilseaorlakewithoutwater，ifsuchasimilebeadmissible，withthedaygoingdownuponit:afewbirdswheelinghereandthere:andsolitudeandsilencereigningparamountaround。Butthegrasswasnotyethigh；therewerebareblackpatchesontheground；andthefewwildflowersthattheeyecouldsee，werepoorandscanty。
Greatasthepicturewas，itsveryflatnessandextent，whichleftnothingtotheimagination，tameditdownandcrampeditsinterest。
IfeltlittleofthatsenseoffreedomandexhilarationwhichaScottishheathinspires，orevenourEnglishdownsawaken。Itwaslonelyandwild，butoppressiveinitsbarrenmonotony。IfeltthatintraversingthePrairies，Icouldneverabandonmyselftothescene，forgetfulofallelse；asIshoulddoinstinctively，weretheheatherunderneathmyfeet，oraniron-boundcoastbeyond；
butshouldoftenglancetowardsthedistantandfrequently-recedinglineofthehorizon，andwishitgainedandpassed。Itisnotascenetobeforgotten，butitisscarcelyone，Ithinkatallevents，asIsawit，torememberwithmuchpleasure，ortocovetthelooking-onagain，inafter-life。
Weencampednearasolitarylog-house，forthesakeofitswater，anddinedupontheplain。Thebasketscontainedroastfowls，buffalo'stongueanexquisitedainty，bytheway，ham，bread，cheese，andbutter；biscuits，champagne，sherry；lemonsandsugarforpunch；andabundanceofroughice。Themealwasdelicious，andtheentertainerswerethesoulofkindnessandgoodhumour。Ihaveoftenrecalledthatcheerfulpartytomypleasantrecollectionsince，andshallnoteasilyforget，injunketingsnearerhomewithfriendsofolderdate，mybooncompanionsonthePrairie。
ReturningtoLebanonthatnight，welayatthelittleinnatwhichwehadhaltedintheafternoon。InpointofcleanlinessandcomfortitwouldhavesufferedbynocomparisonwithanyEnglishalehouse，ofahomelykind，inEngland。
Risingatfiveo'clocknextmorning，Itookawalkaboutthevillage:noneofthehouseswerestrollingaboutto-day，butitwasearlyforthemyet，perhaps:andthenamusedmyselfbylounginginakindoffarm-yardbehindthetavern，ofwhichtheleadingfeatureswere，astrangejumbleofroughshedsforstables；
arudecolonnade，builtasacoolplaceofsummerresort；adeepwell；agreatearthenmoundforkeepingvegetablesin，inwintertime；andapigeon-house，whoselittleapertureslooked，astheydoinallpigeon-houses，verymuchtoosmallfortheadmissionoftheplumpandswelling-breastedbirdswhowerestruttingaboutit，thoughtheytriedtogetinneversohard。Thatinterestexhausted，Itookasurveyoftheinn'stwoparlours，whichweredecoratedwithcolouredprintsofWashington，andPresidentMadison，andofawhite-facedyoungladymuchspeckledbytheflies，whohelduphergoldneck-chainfortheadmirationofthespectator，andinformedalladmiringcomersthatshewas'JustSeventeen:'althoughIshouldhavethoughtherolder。Inthebestroomweretwooilportraitsofthekit-catsize，representingthelandlordandhisinfantson；bothlookingasboldaslions，andstaringoutofthecanvaswithanintensitythatwouldhavebeencheapatanyprice。Theywerepainted，Ithink，bytheartistwhohadtoucheduptheBellevilledoorswithredandgold；forIseemedtorecognisehisstyleimmediately。
Afterbreakfast，westartedtoreturnbyadifferentwayfromthatwhichwehadtakenyesterday，andcomingupatteno'clockwithanencampmentofGermanemigrantscarryingtheirgoodsincarts，whohadmadearousingfirewhichtheywerejustquitting，stoppedtheretorefresh。Andverypleasantthefirewas；for，hotthoughithadbeenyesterday，itwasquitecoldto-day，andthewindblewkeenly。Loominginthedistance，aswerodealong，wasanotheroftheancientIndianburial-places，calledTheMonks'Mound；inmemoryofabodyoffanaticsoftheorderofLaTrappe，whofoundedadesolateconventthere，manyyearsago，whentherewerenosettlerswithinathousandmiles，andwereallsweptoffbytheperniciousclimate:inwhichlamentablefatality，fewrationalpeoplewillsuppose，perhaps，thatsocietyexperiencedanyveryseveredeprivation。
Thetrackofto-dayhadthesamefeaturesasthetrackofyesterday。Therewastheswamp，thebush，andtheperpetualchorusoffrogs，therankunseemlygrowth，theunwholesomesteamingearth。
Hereandthere，andfrequentlytoo，weencounteredasolitarybroken-downwaggon，fullofsomenewsettler'sgoods。Itwasapitifulsighttoseeoneofthesevehiclesdeepinthemire；theaxle-treebroken；thewheellyingidlybyitsside；themangonemilesaway，tolookforassistance；thewomanseatedamongtheirwanderinghouseholdgodswithababyatherbreast，apictureofforlorn，dejectedpatience；theteamofoxencrouchingdownmournfullyinthemud，andbreathingforthsuchcloudsofvapourfromtheirmouthsandnostrils，thatallthedampmistandfogaroundseemedtohavecomedirectfromthem。
Induetimewemusteredonceagainbeforethemerchanttailor's，andhavingdoneso，crossedovertothecityintheferry-boat:
passing，ontheway，aspotcalledBloodyIsland，theduelling-
groundofSt。Louis，andsodesignatedinhonourofthelastfatalcombatfoughtthere，whichwaswithpistols，breasttobreast。
Bothcombatantsfelldeadupontheground；andpossiblysomerationalpeoplemaythinkofthem，asofthegloomymadmenontheMonks'Mound，thattheywerenogreatlosstothecommunity。
CHAPTERXIV-RETURNTOCINCINNATI。ASTAGE-COACHRIDEFROMTHAT
CITYTOCOLUMBUS，ANDTHENCETOSANDUSKY。SO，BYLAKEERIE，TOTHE
FALLSOFNIAGARA
ASIhadadesiretotravelthroughtheinteriorofthestateofOhio，andto'strikethelakes，'asthephraseis，atasmalltowncalledSandusky，towhichthatroutewouldconductusonourwaytoNiagara，wehadtoreturnfromSt。Louisbythewaywehadcome，andtoretraceourformertrackasfarasCincinnati。
ThedayonwhichweweretotakeleaveofSt。Louisbeingveryfine；andthesteamboat，whichwastohavestartedIdon'tknowhowearlyinthemorning，postponing，forthethirdorfourthtime，herdepartureuntiltheafternoon；werodeforwardtoanoldFrenchvillageontheriver，calledproperlyCarondelet，andnicknamedVidePoche，andarrangedthatthepacketshouldcallforusthere。
Theplaceconsistedofafewpoorcottages，andtwoorthreepublic-houses；thestateofwhoselarderscertainlyseemedtojustifytheseconddesignationofthevillage，fortherewasnothingtoeatinanyofthem。Atlength，however，bygoingbacksomehalfamileorso，wefoundasolitaryhousewherehamandcoffeewereprocurable；andtherewetarriedtowaittheadventoftheboat，whichwouldcomeinsightfromthegreenbeforethedoor，alongwayoff。
Itwasaneat，unpretendingvillagetavern，andwetookourrepastinaquaintlittleroomwithabedinit，decoratedwithsomeoldoilpaintings，whichintheirtimehadprobablydonedutyinaCatholicchapelormonastery。Thefarewasverygood，andservedwithgreatcleanliness。Thehousewaskeptbyacharacteristicoldcouple，withwhomwehadalongtalk，andwhowereperhapsaverygoodsampleofthatkindofpeopleintheWest。
Thelandlordwasadry，tough，hard-facedoldfellownotsoveryoldeither，forhewasbutjustturnedsixty，Ishouldthink，whohadbeenoutwiththemilitiainthelastwarwithEngland，andhadseenallkindsofservice，-exceptabattle；andhehadbeenverynearseeingthat，headded:verynear。Hehadallhislifebeenrestlessandlocomotive，withanirresistibledesireforchange；
andwasstillthesonofhisoldself:forifhehadnothingtokeephimathome，hesaidslightlyjerkinghishatandhisthumbtowardsthewindowoftheroominwhichtheoldladysat，aswestoodtalkinginfrontofthehouse，hewouldcleanuphismusket，andbeofftoTexasto-morrowmorning。HewasoneoftheverymanydescendantsofCainpropertothiscontinent，whoseemdestinedfromtheirbirthtoserveaspioneersinthegreathumanarmy:whogladlygoonfromyeartoyearextendingitsoutposts，andleavinghomeafterhomebehindthem；anddieatlast，utterlyregardlessoftheirgravesbeingleftthousandsofmilesbehind，bythewanderinggenerationwhosucceed。
Hiswifewasadomesticated，kind-heartedoldsoul，whohadcomewithhim，'fromthequeencityoftheworld，'which，itseemed，wasPhiladelphia；buthadnoloveforthisWesterncountry，andindeedhadlittlereasontobearitany；havingseenherchildren，onebyone，diehereoffever，inthefullprimeandbeautyoftheiryouth。Herheartwassore，shesaid，tothinkofthem；andtotalkonthistheme，eventostrangers，inthatblightedplace，sofarfromheroldhome，easeditsomewhat，andbecameamelancholypleasure。
Theboatappearingtowardsevening，webadeadieutothepooroldladyandhervagrantspouse，andmakingforthenearestlanding-
place，weresoononboardTheMessengeragain，inouroldcabin，andsteamingdowntheMississippi。
Ifthecomingupthisriver，slowlymakingheadagainstthestream，beanirksomejourney，theshootingdownitwiththeturbidcurrentisalmostworse；forthentheboat，proceedingattherateoftwelveorfifteenmilesanhour，hastoforceitspassagethroughalabyrinthoffloatinglogs，which，inthedark，itisoftenimpossibletoseebeforehandoravoid。Allthatnight，thebellwasneversilentforfiveminutesatatime；andaftereveryringthevesselreeledagain，sometimesbeneathasingleblow，sometimesbeneathadozendealtinquicksuccession，thelightestofwhichseemedmorethanenoughtobeatinherfrailkeel，asthoughithadbeenpie-crust。Lookingdownuponthefilthyriverafterdark，itseemedtobealivewithmonsters，astheseblackmassesrolleduponthesurface，orcamestartingupagain，headfirst，whentheboat，inploughingherwayamongashoalofsuchobstructions，droveafewamongthemforthemomentunderwater。Sometimestheenginestoppedduringalonginterval，andthenbeforeherandbehind，andgatheringcloseaboutheronallsides，weresomanyoftheseill-
favouredobstaclesthatshewasfairlyhemmedin；thecentreofafloatingisland；andwasconstrainedtopauseuntiltheyparted，somewhere，asdarkcloudswilldobeforethewind，andopenedbydegreesachannelout。
Ingoodtimenextmorning，however，wecameagaininsightofthedetestablemorasscalledCairo；andstoppingtheretotakeinwood，layalongsideabarge，whosestartingtimbersscarcelyheldtogether。Itwasmooredtothebank，andonitssidewaspainted'CoffeeHouse；'thatbeing，Isuppose，thefloatingparadisetowhichthepeopleflyforshelterwhentheylosetheirhousesforamonthortwobeneaththehideouswatersoftheMississippi。Butlookingsouthwardfromthispoint，wehadthesatisfactionofseeingthatintolerableriverdraggingitsslimylengthanduglyfreightabruptlyofftowardsNewOrleans；andpassingayellowlinewhichstretchedacrossthecurrent，wereagainupontheclearOhio，never，Itrust，toseetheMississippimore，savingintroubleddreamsandnightmares。Leavingitforthecompanyofitssparklingneighbour，waslikethetransitionfrompaintoease，ortheawakeningfromahorriblevisiontocheerfulrealities。
WearrivedatLouisvilleonthefourthnight，andgladlyavailedourselvesofitsexcellenthotel。NextdaywewentonintheBenFranklin，abeautifulmailsteamboat，andreachedCincinnatishortlyaftermidnight。Beingbythistimenearlytiredofsleepinguponshelves，wehadremainedawaketogoashorestraightway；andgropingapassageacrossthedarkdecksofotherboats，andamonglabyrinthsofengine-machineryandleakingcasksofmolasses，wereachedthestreets，knockeduptheporteratthehotelwherewehadstayedbefore，andwere，toourgreatjoy，safelyhousedsoonafterwards。
WerestedbutonedayatCincinnati，andthenresumedourjourneytoSandusky。Asitcomprisedtwovarietiesofstage-coachtravelling，which，withthoseIhavealreadyglancedat，comprehendthemaincharacteristicsofthismodeoftransitinAmerica，Iwilltakethereaderasourfellow-passenger，andpledgemyselftoperformthedistancewithallpossibledespatch。
OurplaceofdestinationinthefirstinstanceisColumbus。ItisdistantaboutahundredandtwentymilesfromCincinnati，butthereisamacadamisedroadrareblessing!thewholeway，andtherateoftravellinguponitissixmilesanhour。
Westartateighto'clockinthemorning，inagreatmail-coach，whosehugecheeksaresoveryruddyandplethoric，thatitappearstobetroubledwithatendencyofbloodtothehead。Dropsicalitcertainlyis，foritwillholdadozenpassengersinside。But，wonderfultoadd，itisverycleanandbright，beingnearlynew；
andrattlesthroughthestreetsofCincinnatigaily。
Ourwayliesthroughabeautifulcountry，richlycultivated，andluxuriantinitspromiseofanabundantharvest。SometimeswepassafieldwherethestrongbristlingstalksofIndiancornlooklikeacropofwalking-sticks，andsometimesanenclosurewherethegreenwheatisspringingupamongalabyrinthofstumps；theprimitiveworm-fenceisuniversal，andanuglythingitis；butthefarmsareneatlykept，and，saveforthesedifferences，onemightbetravellingjustnowinKent。
Weoftenstoptowaterataroadsideinn，whichisalwaysdullandsilent。Thecoachmandismountsandfillshisbucket，andholdsittothehorses'heads。Thereisscarcelyeveranyonetohelphim；
thereareseldomanyloungersstandinground；andneveranystable-
companywithjokestocrack。Sometimes，whenwehavechangedourteam，thereisadifficultyinstartingagain，arisingoutoftheprevalentmodeofbreakingayounghorse:whichistocatchhim，harnesshimagainsthiswill，andputhiminastage-coachwithoutfurthernotice:butwegetonsomehoworother，afteragreatmanykicksandaviolentstruggle；andjogonasbeforeagain。
Occasionally，whenwestoptochange，sometwoorthreehalf-
drunkenloaferswillcomeloiteringoutwiththeirhandsintheirpockets，orwillbeseenkickingtheirheelsinrocking-chairs，orloungingonthewindow-sill，orsittingonarailwithinthecolonnade:theyhavenotoftenanythingtosaythough，eithertousortoeachother，butsitthereidlystaringatthecoachandhorses。Thelandlordoftheinnisusuallyamongthem，andseems，ofalltheparty，tobetheleastconnectedwiththebusinessofthehouse。Indeedheiswithreferencetothetavern，whatthedriverisinrelationtothecoachandpassengers:whateverhappensinhissphereofaction，heisquiteindifferent，andperfectlyeasyinhismind。
Thefrequentchangeofcoachmenworksnochangeorvarietyinthecoachman'scharacter。Heisalwaysdirty，sullen，andtaciturn。
Ifhebecapableofsmartnessofanykind，moralorphysical，hehasafacultyofconcealingitwhichistrulymarvellous。Heneverspeakstoyouasyousitbesidehimonthebox，andifyouspeaktohim，heanswersifatallinmonosyllables。Hepointsoutnothingontheroad，andseldomlooksatanything:being，toallappearance，thoroughlywearyofitandofexistencegenerally。Astodoingthehonoursofhiscoach，hisbusiness，asIhavesaid，iswiththehorses。Thecoachfollowsbecauseitisattachedtothemandgoesonwheels:notbecauseyouareinit。Sometimes，towardstheendofalongstage，hesuddenlybreaksoutintoadiscordantfragmentofanelectionsong，buthisfaceneversingsalongwithhim:itisonlyhisvoice，andnotoftenthat。
Healwayschewsandalwaysspits，andneverencumbershimselfwithapocket-handkerchief。Theconsequencestotheboxpassenger，especiallywhenthewindblowstowardshim，arenotagreeable。
Wheneverthecoachstops，andyoucanhearthevoicesoftheinsidepassengers；orwheneveranybystanderaddressesthem，oranyoneamongthem；ortheyaddresseachother；youwillhearonephraserepeatedoverandoverandoveragaintothemostextraordinaryextent。Itisanordinaryandunpromisingphraseenough，beingneithermorenorlessthan'Yes，sir；'butitisadaptedtoeveryvarietyofcircumstance，andfillsupeverypauseintheconversation。Thus:-