stillinterrogativelytoeach。Thenheguessesthatyoudon'ttravelfasterinEngland；andonyourreplyingthatyoudo，says'Yes？'againstillinterrogatively，anditisquiteevident，don'tbelieveit。Afteralongpauseheremarks，partlytoyou，andpartlytotheknobonthetopofhisstick，that'Yankeesarereckonedtobeconsiderableofago-aheadpeopletoo；'uponwhichYOUsay'Yes，'andthenHEsays'Yes'againaffirmativelythistime；anduponyourlookingoutofwindow，tellsyouthatbehindthathill，andsomethreemilesfromthenextstation，thereisaclevertowninasmartlo-ca-tion，whereheexpectsyouhaveconcludedtostop。Youranswerinthenegativenaturallyleadstomorequestionsinreferencetoyourintendedroutealwayspronouncedrout；andwhereveryouaregoing，youinvariablylearnthatyoucan'tgettherewithoutimmensedifficultyanddanger，andthatallthegreatsightsaresomewhereelse。
　　Ifaladytakeafancytoanymalepassenger'sseat，thegentlemanwhoaccompanieshergiveshimnoticeofthefact，andheimmediatelyvacatesitwithgreatpoliteness。Politicsaremuchdiscussed，soarebanks，soiscotton。QuietpeopleavoidthequestionofthePresidency，fortherewillbeanewelectioninthreeyearsandahalf，andpartyfeelingrunsveryhigh:thegreatconstitutionalfeatureofthisinstitutionbeing，thatdirectlytheacrimonyofthelastelectionisover，theacrimonyofthenextonebegins；whichisanunspeakablecomforttoallstrongpoliticiansandtrueloversoftheircountry:thatistosay，toninety-ninemenandboysoutofeveryninety-nineandaquarter。
　　Exceptwhenabranchroadjoinsthemainone，thereisseldommorethanonetrackofrails；sothattheroadisverynarrow，andtheview，wherethereisadeepcutting，bynomeansextensive。Whenthereisnot，thecharacterofthesceneryisalwaysthesame。
　　Mileaftermileofstuntedtrees:somehewndownbytheaxe，someblowndownbythewind，somehalffallenandrestingontheirneighbours，manymerelogshalfhiddenintheswamp，othersmoulderedawaytospongychips。Theverysoiloftheearthismadeupofminutefragmentssuchasthese；eachpoolofstagnantwaterhasitscrustofvegetablerottenness；oneverysidetherearetheboughs，andtrunks，andstumpsoftrees，ineverypossiblestageofdecay，decomposition，andneglect。Nowyouemergeforafewbriefminutesonanopencountry，glitteringwithsomebrightlakeorpool，broadasmanyanEnglishriver，butsosmallherethatitscarcelyhasaname；nowcatchhastyglimpsesofadistanttown，withitscleanwhitehousesandtheircoolpiazzas，itsprimNewEnglandchurchandschool-house；whenwhir-r-r-r!almostbeforeyouhaveseenthem，comesthesamedarkscreen:thestuntedtrees，thestumps，thelogs，thestagnantwater-allsolikethelastthatyouseemtohavebeentransportedbackagainbymagic。
　　Thetraincallsatstationsinthewoods，wherethewildimpossibilityofanybodyhavingthesmallestreasontogetout，isonlytobeequalledbytheapparentlydesperatehopelessnessoftherebeinganybodytogetin。Itrushesacrosstheturnpikeroad，wherethereisnogate，nopoliceman，nosignal:nothingbutaroughwoodenarch，onwhichispainted'WHENTHEBELLRINGS，LOOK
　　OUTFORTHELOCOMOTIVE。'Onitwhirlsheadlong，divesthroughthewoodsagain，emergesinthelight，clattersoverfrailarches，rumblesupontheheavyground，shootsbeneathawoodenbridgewhichinterceptsthelightforasecondlikeawink，suddenlyawakensalltheslumberingechoesinthemainstreetofalargetown，anddashesonhaphazard，pell-mell，neck-or-nothing，downthemiddleoftheroad。There-withmechanicsworkingattheirtrades，andpeopleleaningfromtheirdoorsandwindows，andboysflyingkitesandplayingmarbles，andmensmoking，andwomentalking，andchildrencrawling，andpigsburrowing，andunaccustomedhorsesplungingandrearing，closetotheveryrails-there-on，on，on-tearsthemaddragonofanenginewithitstrainofcars；
　　scatteringinalldirectionsashowerofburningsparksfromitswoodfire；screeching，hissing，yelling，panting；untilatlastthethirstymonsterstopsbeneathacoveredwaytodrink，thepeopleclusterround，andyouhavetimetobreatheagain。
　　IwasmetatthestationatLowellbyagentlemanintimatelyconnectedwiththemanagementofthefactoriesthere；andgladlyputtingmyselfunderhisguidance，droveoffatoncetothatquarterofthetowninwhichtheworks，theobjectofmyvisit，weresituated。Althoughonlyjustofage-forifmyrecollectionserveme，ithasbeenamanufacturingtownbarelyone-and-twentyyears-Lowellisalarge，populous，thrivingplace。Thoseindicationsofitsyouthwhichfirstattracttheeye，giveitaquaintnessandoddityofcharacterwhich，toavisitorfromtheoldcountry，isamusingenough。Itwasaverydirtywinter'sday，andnothinginthewholetownlookedoldtome，exceptthemud，whichinsomepartswasalmostknee-deep，andmighthavebeendepositedthere，onthesubsidingofthewatersaftertheDeluge。Inoneplace，therewasanewwoodenchurch，which，havingnosteeple，andbeingyetunpainted，lookedlikeanenormouspacking-casewithoutanydirectionuponit。Inanothertherewasalargehotel，whosewallsandcolonnadesweresocrisp，andthin，andslight，thatithadexactlytheappearanceofbeingbuiltwithcards。Iwascarefulnottodrawmybreathaswepassed，andtrembledwhenIsawaworkmancomeoutupontheroof，lestwithonethoughtlessstampofhisfootheshouldcrushthestructurebeneathhim，andbringitrattlingdown。Theveryriverthatmovesthemachineryinthemillsfortheyareallworkedbywaterpower，seemstoacquireanewcharacterfromthefreshbuildingsofbrightredbrickandpaintedwoodamongwhichittakesitscourse；andtobeaslight-
　　headed，thoughtless，andbriskayoungriver，initsmurmuringsandtumblings，asonewoulddesiretosee。Onewouldswearthatevery'Bakery，''Grocery，'and'Bookbindery，'andotherkindofstore，tookitsshuttersdownforthefirsttime，andstartedinbusinessyesterday。Thegoldenpestlesandmortarsfixedassignsuponthesun-blindframesoutsidetheDruggists'，appeartohavebeenjustturnedoutoftheUnitedStates'Mint；andwhenIsawababyofsomeweekortendaysoldinawoman'sarmsatastreetcorner，I
　　foundmyselfunconsciouslywonderingwhereitcamefrom:neversupposingforaninstantthatitcouldhavebeenborninsuchayoungtownasthat。
　　ThereareseveralfactoriesinLowell，eachofwhichbelongstowhatweshouldtermaCompanyofProprietors，butwhattheycallinAmericaaCorporation。Iwentoverseveralofthese；suchasawoollenfactory，acarpetfactory，andacottonfactory:examinedthemineverypart；andsawthemintheirordinaryworkingaspect，withnopreparationofanykind，ordeparturefromtheirordinaryeverydayproceedings。ImayaddthatIamwellacquaintedwithourmanufacturingtownsinEngland，andhavevisitedmanymillsinManchesterandelsewhereinthesamemanner。
　　Ihappenedtoarriveatthefirstfactoryjustasthedinnerhourwasover，andthegirlswerereturningtotheirwork；indeedthestairsofthemillwerethrongedwiththemasIascended。Theywereallwelldressed，butnottomythinkingabovetheircondition；forIliketoseethehumblerclassesofsocietycarefuloftheirdressandappearance，andeven，iftheyplease，decoratedwithsuchlittletrinketsascomewithinthecompassoftheirmeans。Supposingitconfinedwithinreasonablelimits，Iwouldalwaysencouragethiskindofpride，asaworthyelementofself-
　　respect，inanypersonIemployed；andshouldnomorebedeterredfromdoingso，becausesomewretchedfemalereferredherfalltoaloveofdress，thanIwouldallowmyconstructionoftherealintentandmeaningoftheSabbathtobeinfluencedbyanywarningtothewell-disposed，foundedonhisbackslidingsonthatparticularday，whichmightemanatefromtheratherdoubtfulauthorityofamurdererinNewgate。
　　Thesegirls，asIhavesaid，wereallwelldressed:andthatphrasenecessarilyincludesextremecleanliness。Theyhadserviceablebonnets，goodwarmcloaks，andshawls；andwerenotaboveclogsandpattens。Moreover，therewereplacesinthemillinwhichtheycoulddepositthesethingswithoutinjury；andtherewereconveniencesforwashing。Theywerehealthyinappearance，manyofthemremarkablyso，andhadthemannersanddeportmentofyoungwomen:notofdegradedbrutesofburden。IfIhadseeninoneofthosemillsbutIdidnot，thoughIlookedforsomethingofthiskindwithasharpeye，themostlisping，mincing，affected，andridiculousyoungcreaturethatmyimaginationcouldsuggest，I
　　shouldhavethoughtofthecareless，moping，slatternly，degraded，dullreverseIHAVEseenthat，andshouldhavebeenstillwellpleasedtolookuponher。
　　Theroomsinwhichtheyworked，wereaswellorderedasthemselves。
　　Inthewindowsofsome，thereweregreenplants，whichweretrainedtoshadetheglass；inall，therewasasmuchfreshair，cleanliness，andcomfort，asthenatureoftheoccupationwouldpossiblyadmitof。Outofsolargeanumberoffemales，manyofwhomwereonlythenjustverginguponwomanhood，itmaybereasonablysupposedthatsomeweredelicateandfragileinappearance:nodoubttherewere。ButIsolemnlydeclare，thatfromallthecrowdIsawinthedifferentfactoriesthatday，I
　　cannotrecallorseparateoneyoungfacethatgavemeapainfulimpression；notoneyounggirlwhom，assumingittobeamatterofnecessitythatsheshouldgainherdailybreadbythelabourofherhands，IwouldhaveremovedfromthoseworksifIhadhadthepower。
　　Theyresideinvariousboarding-housesnearathand。Theownersofthemillsareparticularlycarefultoallownopersonstoenteruponthepossessionofthesehouses，whosecharactershavenotundergonethemostsearchingandthoroughinquiry。Anycomplaintthatismadeagainstthem，bytheboarders，orbyanyoneelse，isfullyinvestigated；andifgoodgroundofcomplaintbeshowntoexistagainstthem，theyareremoved，andtheiroccupationishandedovertosomemoredeservingperson。Thereareafewchildrenemployedinthesefactories，butnotmany。ThelawsoftheStateforbidtheirworkingmorethanninemonthsintheyear，andrequirethattheybeeducatedduringtheotherthree。ForthispurposethereareschoolsinLowell；andtherearechurchesandchapelsofvariouspersuasions，inwhichtheyoungwomenmayobservethatformofworshipinwhichtheyhavebeeneducated。
　　Atsomedistancefromthefactories，andonthehighestandpleasantestgroundintheneighbourhood，standstheirhospital，orboarding-houseforthesick:itisthebesthouseinthoseparts，andwasbuiltbyaneminentmerchantforhisownresidence。LikethatinstitutionatBoston，whichIhavebeforedescribed，itisnotparcelledoutintowards，butisdividedintoconvenientchambers，eachofwhichhasallthecomfortsofaverycomfortablehome。Theprincipalmedicalattendantresidesunderthesameroof；
　　andwerethepatientsmembersofhisownfamily，theycouldnotbebettercaredfor，orattendedwithgreatergentlenessandconsideration。Theweeklychargeinthisestablishmentforeachfemalepatientisthreedollars，ortwelveshillingsEnglish；butnogirlemployedbyanyofthecorporationsiseverexcludedforwantofthemeansofpayment。Thattheydonotveryoftenwantthemeans，maybegatheredfromthefact，thatinJuly，1841，nofewerthanninehundredandseventy-eightofthesegirlsweredepositorsintheLowellSavingsBank:theamountofwhosejointsavingswasestimatedatonehundredthousanddollars，ortwentythousandEnglishpounds。
　　Iamnowgoingtostatethreefacts，whichwillstartlealargeclassofreadersonthissideoftheAtlantic，verymuch。
　　Firstly，thereisajoint-stockpianoinagreatmanyoftheboarding-houses。Secondly，nearlyalltheseyoungladiessubscribetocirculatinglibraries。Thirdly，theyhavegotupamongthemselvesaperiodicalcalledTHELOWELLOFFERING，'Arepositoryoforiginalarticles，writtenexclusivelybyfemalesactivelyemployedinthemills，'-whichisdulyprinted，published，andsold；andwhereofIbroughtawayfromLowellfourhundredgoodsolidpages，whichIhavereadfrombeginningtoend。
　　Thelargeclassofreaders，startledbythesefacts，willexclaim，withonevoice，'Howverypreposterous!'Onmydeferentiallyinquiringwhy，theywillanswer，'Thesethingsareabovetheirstation。'Inreplytothatobjection，Iwouldbegtoaskwhattheirstationis。
　　Itistheirstationtowork。AndtheyDOwork。Theylabourinthesemills，uponanaverage，twelvehoursaday，whichisunquestionablywork，andprettytightworktoo。Perhapsitisabovetheirstationtoindulgeinsuchamusements，onanyterms。
　　ArewequitesurethatweinEnglandhavenotformedourideasofthe'station'ofworkingpeople，fromaccustomingourselvestothecontemplationofthatclassastheyare，andnotastheymightbe？
　　Ithinkthatifweexamineourownfeelings，weshallfindthatthepianos，andthecirculatinglibraries，andeventheLowellOffering，startleusbytheirnovelty，andnotbytheirbearinguponanyabstractquestionofrightorwrong。
　　Formyself，Iknownostationinwhich，theoccupationofto-daycheerfullydoneandtheoccupationofto-morrowcheerfullylookedto，anyoneofthesepursuitsisnotmosthumanisingandlaudable。
　　Iknownostationwhichisrenderedmoreendurabletothepersoninit，ormoresafetothepersonoutofit，byhavingignoranceforitsassociate。Iknownostationwhichhasarighttomonopolisethemeansofmutualinstruction，improvement，andrationalentertainment；orwhichhasevercontinuedtobeastationverylong，afterseekingtodoso。
　　OfthemeritsoftheLowellOfferingasaliteraryproduction，I
　　willonlyobserve，puttingentirelyoutofsightthefactofthearticleshavingbeenwrittenbythesegirlsafterthearduouslaboursoftheday，thatitwillcompareadvantageouslywithagreatmanyEnglishAnnuals。ItispleasanttofindthatmanyofitsTalesareoftheMillsandofthosewhoworkinthem；thattheyinculcatehabitsofself-denialandcontentment，andteachgooddoctrinesofenlargedbenevolence。Astrongfeelingforthebeautiesofnature，asdisplayedinthesolitudesthewritershaveleftathome，breathesthroughitspageslikewholesomevillageair；andthoughacirculatinglibraryisafavourableschoolforthestudyofsuchtopics，ithasveryscantallusiontofineclothes，finemarriages，finehouses，orfinelife。Somepersonsmightobjecttothepapersbeingsignedoccasionallywithratherfinenames，butthisisanAmericanfashion。OneoftheprovincesofthestatelegislatureofMassachusettsistoalteruglynamesintoprettyones，asthechildrenimproveuponthetastesoftheirparents。Thesechangescostinglittleornothing，scoresofMaryAnnesaresolemnlyconvertedintoBevelinaseverysession。
　　ItissaidthatontheoccasionofavisitfromGeneralJacksonorGeneralHarrisontothistownIforgetwhich，butitisnottothepurpose，hewalkedthroughthreemilesandahalfoftheseyoungladiesalldressedoutwithparasolsandsilkstockings。ButasI
　　amnotawarethatanyworseconsequenceensued，thanasuddenlooking-upofalltheparasolsandsilkstockingsinthemarket；
　　andperhapsthebankruptcyofsomespeculativeNewEnglanderwhoboughtthemallupatanyprice，inexpectationofademandthatnevercame；Isetnogreatstorebythecircumstance。
　　InthisbriefaccountofLowell，andinadequateexpressionofthegratificationityieldedme，andcannotfailtoaffordtoanyforeignertowhomtheconditionofsuchpeopleathomeisasubjectofinterestandanxiousspeculation，Ihavecarefullyabstainedfromdrawingacomparisonbetweenthesefactoriesandthoseofourownland。Manyofthecircumstanceswhosestronginfluencehasbeenatworkforyearsinourmanufacturingtownshavenotarisenhere；andthereisnomanufacturingpopulationinLowell，sotospeak:forthesegirlsoftenthedaughtersofsmallfarmerscomefromotherStates，remainafewyearsinthemills，andthengohomeforgood。
　　Thecontrastwouldbeastrongone，foritwouldbebetweentheGoodandEvil，thelivinglightanddeepestshadow。Iabstainfromit，becauseIdeemitjusttodoso。ButIonlythemoreearnestlyadjureallthosewhoseeyesmayrestonthesepages，topauseandreflectuponthedifferencebetweenthistownandthosegreathauntsofdesperatemisery:tocalltomind，iftheycaninthemidstofpartystrifeandsquabble，theeffortsthatmustbemadetopurgethemoftheirsufferinganddanger:andlast，andforemost，torememberhowthepreciousTimeisrushingby。
　　Ireturnedatnightbythesamerailroadandinthesamekindofcar。Oneofthepassengersbeingexceedinglyanxioustoexpoundatgreatlengthtomycompanionnottome，ofcoursethetrueprinciplesonwhichbooksoftravelinAmericashouldbewrittenbyEnglishmen，Ifeignedtofallasleep。Butglancingallthewayoutatwindowfromthecornersofmyeyes，Ifoundabundanceofentertainmentfortherestoftherideinwatchingtheeffectsofthewoodfire，whichhadbeeninvisibleinthemorningbutwerenowbroughtoutinfullreliefbythedarkness:forweweretravellinginawhirlwindofbrightsparks，whichshoweredaboutuslikeastormoffierysnow。
　　CHAPTERV-WORCESTER。THECONNECTICUTRIVER。HARTFORD。NEW
　　HAVEN。TONEWYORK
　　LEAVINGBostonontheafternoonofSaturdaythefifthofFebruary，weproceededbyanotherrailroadtoWorcester:aprettyNewEnglandtown，wherewehadarrangedtoremainunderthehospitableroofoftheGovernoroftheState，untilMondaymorning。
　　ThesetownsandcitiesofNewEnglandmanyofwhichwouldbevillagesinOldEngland，areasfavourablespecimensofruralAmerica，astheirpeopleareofruralAmericans。Thewell-trimmedlawnsandgreenmeadowsofhomearenotthere；andthegrass，comparedwithourornamentalplotsandpastures，isrank，andrough，andwild:butdelicateslopesofland，gently-swellinghills，woodedvalleys，andslenderstreams，abound。Everylittlecolonyofhouseshasitschurchandschool-housepeepingfromamongthewhiteroofsandshadytrees；everyhouseisthewhitestofthewhite；everyVenetianblindthegreenestofthegreen；everyfineday'sskythebluestoftheblue。AsharpdrywindandaslightfrosthadsohardenedtheroadswhenwealightedatWorcester，thattheirfurrowedtrackswerelikeridgesofgranite。Therewastheusualaspectofnewnessoneveryobject，ofcourse。Allthebuildingslookedasiftheyhadbeenbuiltandpaintedthatmorning，andcouldbetakendownonMondaywithverylittletrouble。Inthekeeneveningair，everysharpoutlinelookedahundredtimessharperthanever。ThecleancardboardcolonnadeshadnomoreperspectivethanaChinesebridgeonatea-cup，andappearedequallywellcalculatedforuse。Therazor-likeedgesofthedetachedcottagesseemedtocuttheverywindasitwhistledagainstthem，andtosenditsmartingonitswaywithashrillercrythanbefore。Thoseslightly-builtwoodendwellingsbehindwhichthesunwassettingwithabrilliantlustre，couldbesolookedthroughandthrough，thattheideaofanyinhabitantbeingabletohidehimselffromthepublicgaze，ortohaveanysecretsfromthepubliceye，wasnotentertainableforamoment。Evenwhereablazingfireshonethroughtheuncurtainedwindowsofsomedistanthouse，ithadtheairofbeingnewlylighted，andoflackingwarmth；andinsteadofawakeningthoughtsofasnugchamber，brightwithfacesthatfirstsawthelightroundthatsamehearth，andruddywithwarmhangings，itcameupononesuggestiveofthesmellofnewmortaranddampwalls。
　　SoIthought，atleast，thatevening。Nextmorningwhenthesunwasshiningbrightly，andtheclearchurchbellswereringing，andsedatepeopleintheirbestclothesenlivenedthepathwaynearathandanddottedthedistantthreadofroad，therewasapleasantSabbathpeacefulnessoneverything，whichitwasgoodtofeel。Itwouldhavebeenthebetterforanoldchurch；betterstillforsomeoldgraves；butasitwas，awholesomereposeandtranquillitypervadedthescene，whichaftertherestlessoceanandthehurriedcity，hadadoublygratefulinfluenceonthespirits。
　　Wewentonnextmorning，stillbyrailroad，toSpringfield。FromthatplacetoHartford，whitherwewerebound，isadistanceofonlyfive-and-twentymiles，butatthattimeoftheyeartheroadsweresobadthatthejourneywouldprobablyhaveoccupiedtenortwelvehours。Fortunately，however，thewinterhavingbeenunusuallymild，theConnecticutRiverwas'open，'or，inotherwords，notfrozen。ThecaptainofasmallsteamboatwasgoingtomakehisfirsttripfortheseasonthatdaythesecondFebruarytrip，Ibelieve，withinthememoryofman，andonlywaitedforustogoonboard。Accordingly，wewentonboard，withaslittledelayasmightbe。Hewasasgoodashisword，andstarteddirectly。
　　Itcertainlywasnotcalledasmallsteamboatwithoutreason。I
　　omittedtoaskthequestion，butIshouldthinkitmusthavebeenofabouthalfaponypower。Mr。Paap，thecelebratedDwarf，mighthavelivedanddiedhappilyinthecabin，whichwasfittedwithcommonsash-windowslikeanordinarydwelling-house。Thesewindowshadbright-redcurtains，too，hungonslackstringsacrossthelowerpanes；sothatitlookedliketheparlourofaLilliputianpublic-house，whichhadgotafloatinafloodorsomeotherwateraccident，andwasdriftingnobodyknewwhere。Buteveninthischambertherewasarocking-chair。Itwouldbeimpossibletogetonanywhere，inAmerica，withoutarocking-chair。Iamafraidtotellhowmanyfeetshortthisvesselwas，orhowmanyfeetnarrow:
　　toapplythewordslengthandwidthtosuchmeasurementwouldbeacontradictioninterms。ButImaystatethatweallkeptthemiddleofthedeck，lesttheboatshouldunexpectedlytipover；andthatthemachinery，bysomesurprisingprocessofcondensation，workedbetweenitandthekeel:thewholeformingawarmsandwich，aboutthreefeetthick。
　　ItrainedalldayasIoncethoughtitneverdidrainanywhere，butintheHighlandsofScotland。Theriverwasfulloffloatingblocksofice，whichwereconstantlycrunchingandcrackingunderus；andthedepthofwater，inthecoursewetooktoavoidthelargermasses，carrieddownthemiddleoftheriverbythecurrent，didnotexceedafewinches。Nevertheless，wemovedonward，dexterously；andbeingwellwrappedup，badedefiancetotheweather，andenjoyedthejourney。TheConnecticutRiverisafinestream；andthebanksinsummer-timeare，Ihavenodoubt，beautiful；atallevents，Iwastoldsobyayoungladyinthecabin；andsheshouldbeajudgeofbeauty，ifthepossessionofaqualityincludetheappreciationofit，foramorebeautifulcreatureIneverlookedupon。
　　Aftertwohoursandahalfofthisoddtravellingincludingastoppageatasmalltown，whereweweresalutedbyagunconsiderablybiggerthanourownchimney，wereachedHartford，andstraightwayrepairedtoanextremelycomfortablehotel:except，asusual，inthearticleofbedrooms，which，inalmosteveryplacewevisited，wereveryconducivetoearlyrising。
　　Wetarriedhere，fourdays。Thetownisbeautifullysituatedinabasinofgreenhills；thesoilisrich，well-wooded，andcarefullyimproved。ItistheseatofthelocallegislatureofConnecticut，whichsagebodyenacted，inbygonetimes，therenownedcodeof'BlueLaws，'invirtuewhereof，amongotherenlightenedprovisions，anycitizenwhocouldbeprovedtohavekissedhiswifeonSunday，waspunishable，Ibelieve，withthestocks。ToomuchoftheoldPuritanspiritexistsinthesepartstothepresenthour；butitsinfluencehasnottended，thatIknow，tomakethepeoplelesshardintheirbargains，ormoreequalintheirdealings。AsIneverheardofitsworkingthateffectanywhereelse，Iinferthatitneverwill，here。Indeed，Iamaccustomed，withreferencetogreatprofessionsandseverefaces，tojudgeofthegoodsoftheotherworldprettymuchasIjudgeofthegoodsofthis；andwheneverI
　　seeadealerinsuchcommoditieswithtoogreatadisplayoftheminhiswindow，Idoubtthequalityofthearticlewithin。
　　InHartfordstandsthefamousoakinwhichthecharterofKingCharleswashidden。Itisnowinclosedinagentleman'sgarden。
　　IntheStateHouseisthecharteritself。Ifoundthecourtsoflawhere，justthesameasatBoston；thepublicinstitutionsalmostasgood。TheInsaneAsylumisadmirablyconducted，andsoistheInstitutionfortheDeafandDumb。
　　Iverymuchquestionedwithinmyself，asIwalkedthroughtheInsaneAsylum，whetherIshouldhaveknowntheattendantsfromthepatients，butforthefewwordswhichpassedbetweentheformer，andtheDoctor，inreferencetothepersonsundertheircharge。OfcourseIlimitthisremarkmerelytotheirlooks；fortheconversationofthemadpeoplewasmadenough。
　　Therewasonelittle，primoldlady，ofverysmilingandgood-
　　humouredappearance，whocamesidlinguptomefromtheendofalongpassage，andwithacurtseyofinexpressiblecondescension，propoundedthisunaccountableinquiry:
　　'DoesPontefractstillflourish，sir，uponthesoilofEngland？'
　　'Hedoes，ma'am，'Irejoined。
　　'Whenyoulastsawhim，sir，hewas-'
　　'Well，ma'am，'saidI，'extremelywell。Hebeggedmetopresenthiscompliments。Ineversawhimlookingbetter。'
　　Atthis，theoldladywasverymuchdelighted。Afterglancingatmeforamoment，asiftobequitesurethatIwasseriousinmyrespectfulair，shesidledbacksomepaces；sidledforwardagain；
　　madeasuddenskipatwhichIprecipitatelyretreatedasteportwo；andsaid:
　　'Iamanantediluvian，sir。'
　　Ithoughtthebestthingtosaywas，thatIhadsuspectedasmuchfromthefirst。ThereforeIsaidso。
　　'Itisanextremelyproudandpleasantthing，sir，tobeanantediluvian，'saidtheoldlady。
　　'Ishouldthinkitwas，ma'am，'Irejoined。
　　Theoldladykissedherhand，gaveanotherskip，smirkedandsidleddownthegalleryinamostextraordinarymanner，andambledgracefullyintoherownbed-chamber。
　　Inanotherpartofthebuilding，therewasamalepatientinbed；
　　verymuchflushedandheated。
　　'Well，'saidhe，startingup，andpullingoffhisnight-cap:'It'sallsettledatlast。IhavearrangeditwithQueenVictoria。'
　　'Arrangedwhat？'askedtheDoctor。
　　'Why，thatbusiness，'passinghishandwearilyacrosshisforehead，'aboutthesiegeofNewYork。'
　　'Oh!'saidI，likeamansuddenlyenlightened。Forhelookedatmeforananswer。
　　'Yes。EveryhousewithoutasignalwillbefireduponbytheBritishtroops。Noharmwillbedonetotheothers。Noharmatall。Thosethatwanttobesafe，musthoistflags。That'sallthey'llhavetodo。Theymusthoistflags。'
　　Evenwhilehewasspeakingheseemed，Ithought，tohavesomefaintideathathistalkwasincoherent。Directlyhehadsaidthesewords，helaydownagain；gaveakindofagroan；andcoveredhishotheadwiththeblankets。
　　Therewasanother:ayoungman，whosemadnesswasloveandmusic。
　　Afterplayingontheaccordionamarchhehadcomposed，hewasveryanxiousthatIshouldwalkintohischamber，whichIimmediatelydid。
　　Bywayofbeingveryknowing，andhumouringhimtothetopofhisbent，Iwenttothewindow，whichcommandedabeautifulprospect，andremarked，withanaddressuponwhichIgreatlyplumedmyself:
　　'Whatadeliciouscountryyouhaveabouttheselodgingsofyours!'
　　'Poh!'saidhe，movinghisfingerscarelesslyoverthenotesofhisinstrument:'WELLENOUGHFORSUCHANINSTITUTIONASTHIS!'
　　Idon'tthinkIwaseversotakenabackinallmylife。
　　'Icomeherejustforawhim，'hesaidcoolly。'That'sall。'
　　'Oh!That'sall!'saidI。
　　'Yes。That'sall。TheDoctor'sasmartman。Hequiteentersintoit。It'sajokeofmine。Ilikeitforatime。Youneedn'tmentionit，butIthinkIshallgooutnextTuesday!'
　　IassuredhimthatIwouldconsiderourinterviewperfectlyconfidential；andrejoinedtheDoctor。Aswewerepassingthroughagalleryonourwayout，awell-dressedlady，ofquietandcomposedmanners，cameup，andprofferingaslipofpaperandapen，beggedthatIwouldobligeherwithanautograph，Icomplied，andweparted。
　　'IthinkIrememberhavinghadafewinterviewslikethat，withladiesoutofdoors。IhopeSHEisnotmad？'
　　'Yes。'
　　'Onwhatsubject？Autographs？'
　　'No。Shehearsvoicesintheair。'
　　'Well!'thoughtI，'itwouldbewellifwecouldshutupafewfalseprophetsoftheselatertimes，whohaveprofessedtodothesame；andIshouldliketotrytheexperimentonaMormonistortwotobeginwith。'
　　Inthisplace，thereisthebestjailforuntriedoffendersintheworld。Thereisalsoaverywell-orderedStateprison，arrangeduponthesameplanasthatatBoston，exceptthathere，thereisalwaysasentryonthewallwithaloadedgun。Itcontainedatthattimeabouttwohundredprisoners。Aspotwasshownmeinthesleepingward，whereawatchmanwasmurderedsomeyearssinceinthedeadofnight，inadesperateattempttoescape，madebyaprisonerwhohadbrokenfromhiscell。Awoman，too，waspointedouttome，who，forthemurderofherhusband，hadbeenacloseprisonerforsixteenyears。
　　'Doyouthink，'Iaskedofmyconductor，'thataftersoverylonganimprisonment，shehasanythoughtorhopeofeverregainingherliberty？'
　　'Ohdearyes，'heanswered。'Tobesureshehas。'
　　'Shehasnochanceofobtainingit，Isuppose？'
　　'Well，Idon'tknow:'which，by-the-bye，isanationalanswer。
　　'Herfriendsmistrusther。'
　　'WhathaveTHEYtodowithit？'Inaturallyinquired。
　　'Well，theywon'tpetition。'
　　'Butiftheydid，theycouldn'tgetherout，Isuppose？'
　　'Well，notthefirsttime，perhaps，noryetthesecond，buttiringandwearyingforafewyearsmightdoit。'
　　'Doesthateverdoit？'
　　'Whyyes，that'lldoitsometimes。Politicalfriends'lldoitsometimes。It'sprettyoftendone，onewayoranother。'
　　IshallalwaysentertainaverypleasantandgratefulrecollectionofHartford。Itisalovelyplace，andIhadmanyfriendsthere，whomIcanneverrememberwithindifference。WeleftitwithnolittleregretontheeveningofFridaythe11th，andtravelledthatnightbyrailroadtoNewHaven。Upontheway，theguardandIwereformallyintroducedtoeachotherasweusuallywereonsuchoccasions，andexchangedavarietyofsmall-talk。WereachedNewHavenatabouteighto'clock，afterajourneyofthreehours，andputupforthenightatthebestinn。
　　NewHaven，knownalsoastheCityofElms，isafinetown。ManyofitsstreetsasitsALIASsufficientlyimportsareplantedwithrowsofgrandoldelm-trees；andthesamenaturalornamentssurroundYaleCollege，anestablishmentofconsiderableeminenceandreputation。ThevariousdepartmentsofthisInstitutionareerectedinakindofparkorcommoninthemiddleofthetown，wheretheyaredimlyvisibleamongtheshadowingtrees。TheeffectisverylikethatofanoldcathedralyardinEngland；andwhentheirbranchesareinfullleaf，mustbeextremelypicturesque。
　　Eveninthewintertime，thesegroupsofwell-growntrees，clusteringamongthebusystreetsandhousesofathrivingcity，haveaveryquaintappearance:seemingtobringaboutakindofcompromisebetweentownandcountry；asifeachhadmettheotherhalf-way，andshakenhandsuponit；whichisatoncenovelandpleasant。
　　Afteranight'srest，weroseearly，andingoodtimewentdowntothewharf，andonboardthepacketNewYorkFORNewYork。ThiswasthefirstAmericansteamboatofanysizethatIhadseen；andcertainlytoanEnglisheyeitwasinfinitelylesslikeasteamboatthanahugefloatingbath。Icouldhardlypersuademyself，indeed，butthatthebathingestablishmentoffWestminsterBridge，whichI
　　leftababy，hadsuddenlygrowntoanenormoussize；runawayfromhome；andsetupinforeignpartsasasteamer。BeinginAmerica，too，whichourvagabondsdosoparticularlyfavour，itseemedthemoreprobable。
　　Thegreatdifferenceinappearancebetweenthesepacketsandours，is，thatthereissomuchofthemoutofthewater:themain-deckbeingenclosedonallsides，andfilledwithcasksandgoods，likeanysecondorthirdfloorinastackofwarehouses；andthepromenadeorhurricane-deckbeinga-topofthatagain。Apartofthemachineryisalwaysabovethisdeck；wheretheconnecting-rod，inastrongandloftyframe，isseenworkingawaylikeanirontop-
　　sawyer。Thereisseldomanymastortackle:nothingaloftbuttwotallblackchimneys。Themanatthehelmisshutupinalittlehouseintheforepartoftheboatthewheelbeingconnectedwiththerudderbyironchains，workingthewholelengthofthedeck；
　　andthepassengers，unlesstheweatherbeveryfineindeed，usuallycongregatebelow。Directlyyouhaveleftthewharf，allthelife，andstir，andbustleofapacketcease。Youwonderforalongtimehowshegoeson，forthereseemstobenobodyinchargeofher；andwhenanotherofthesedullmachinescomessplashingby，youfeelquiteindignantwithit，asasullencumbrous，ungraceful，unshiplikeleviathan:quiteforgettingthatthevesselyouareonboardof，isitsverycounterpart。
　　Thereisalwaysaclerk'sofficeonthelowerdeck，whereyoupayyourfare；aladies'cabin；baggageandstowagerooms；engineer'sroom；andinshortagreatvarietyofperplexitieswhichrenderthediscoveryofthegentlemen'scabin，amatterofsomedifficulty。
　　Itoftenoccupiesthewholelengthoftheboatasitdidinthiscase，andhasthreeorfourtiersofberthsoneachside。WhenI
　　firstdescendedintothecabinoftheNewYork，itlooked，inmyunaccustomedeyes，aboutaslongastheBurlingtonArcade。
　　TheSoundwhichhastobecrossedonthispassage，isnotalwaysaverysafeorpleasantnavigation，andhasbeenthesceneofsomeunfortunateaccidents。Itwasawetmorning，andverymisty，andwesoonlostsightofland。Thedaywascalm，however，andbrightenedtowardsnoon。Afterexhaustingwithgoodhelpfromafriendthelarder，andthestockofbottledbeer，Ilaydowntosleep；beingverymuchtiredwiththefatiguesofyesterday。ButI
　　wokefrommynapintimetohurryup，andseeHellGate，theHog'sBack，theFryingPan，andothernotoriouslocalities，attractivetoallreadersoffamousDiedrichKnickerbocker'sHistory。Wewerenowinanarrowchannel，withslopingbanksoneitherside，besprinkledwithpleasantvillas，andmaderefreshingtothesightbyturfandtrees。Soonweshotinquicksuccession，pastalight-
　　house；amadhousehowthelunaticsflunguptheircapsandroaredinsympathywiththeheadlongengineandthedrivingtide!；ajail；andotherbuildings:andsoemergedintoanoblebay，whosewaterssparkledinthenowcloudlesssunshinelikeNature'seyesturneduptoHeaven。
　　Thentherelaystretchedoutbeforeus，totheright，confusedheapsofbuildings，withhereandthereaspireorsteeple，lookingdownupontheherdbelow；andhereandthere，again，acloudoflazysmoke；andintheforegroundaforestofships'masts，cheerywithflappingsailsandwavingflags。Crossingfromamongthemtotheoppositeshore，weresteamferry-boatsladenwithpeople，coaches，horses，waggons，baskets，boxes:crossedandrecrossedbyotherferry-boats:alltravellingtoandfro:andneveridle。
　　StatelyamongtheserestlessInsects，weretwoorthreelargeships，movingwithslowmajesticpace，ascreaturesofaprouderkind，disdainfuloftheirpunyjourneys，andmakingforthebroadsea。Beyond，wereshiningheights，andislandsintheglancingriver，andadistancescarcelylessblueandbrightthantheskyitseemedtomeet。Thecity'shumandbuzz，theclinkingofcapstans，theringingofbells，thebarkingofdogs，theclatteringofwheels，tingledinthelisteningear。Allofwhichlifeandstir，comingacrossthestirringwater，caughtnewlifeandanimationfromitsfreecompanionship；and，sympathisingwithitsbuoyantspirits，glistenedasitseemedinsportuponitssurface，andhemmedthevesselround，andplashedthewaterhighabouthersides，and，floatinghergallantlyintothedock，flewoffagaintowelcomeothercomers，andspeedbeforethemtothebusyport。
　　CHAPTERVI-NEWYORK
　　THEbeautifulmetropolisofAmericaisbynomeanssocleanacityasBoston，butmanyofitsstreetshavethesamecharacteristics；
　　exceptthatthehousesarenotquitesofresh-coloured，thesign-
　　boardsarenotquitesogaudy，thegildedlettersnotquitesogolden，thebricksnotquitesored，thestonenotquitesowhite，theblindsandarearailingsnotquitesogreen，theknobsandplatesuponthestreetdoorsnotquitesobrightandtwinkling。
　　Therearemanyby-streets，almostasneutralincleancolours，andpositiveindirtyones，asby-streetsinLondon；andthereisonequarter，commonlycalledtheFivePoints，which，inrespectoffilthandwretchedness，maybesafelybackedagainstSevenDials，oranyotherpartoffamedSt。Giles's。
　　Thegreatpromenadeandthoroughfare，asmostpeopleknow，isBroadway；awideandbustlingstreet，which，fromtheBatteryGardenstoitsoppositeterminationinacountryroad，maybefourmileslong。ShallwesitdowninanupperflooroftheCarltonHouseHotelsituatedinthebestpartofthismainarteryofNewYork，andwhenwearetiredoflookingdownuponthelifebelow，sallyfortharm-in-arm，andminglewiththestream？
　　Warmweather!Thesunstrikesuponourheadsatthisopenwindow，asthoughitsrayswereconcentratedthroughaburning-glass；butthedayisinitszenith，andtheseasonanunusualone。WasthereeversuchasunnystreetasthisBroadway!Thepavementstonesarepolishedwiththetreadoffeetuntiltheyshineagain；theredbricksofthehousesmightbeyetinthedry，hotkilns；andtheroofsofthoseomnibuseslookasthough，ifwaterwerepouredonthem，theywouldhissandsmoke，andsmelllikehalf-quenchedfires。Nostintofomnibuseshere!Half-a-dozenhavegonebywithinasmanyminutes。Plentyofhackneycabsandcoachestoo；
　　gigs，phaetons，large-wheeledtilburies，andprivatecarriages-
　　ratherofaclumsymake，andnotverydifferentfromthepublicvehicles，butbuiltfortheheavyroadsbeyondthecitypavement。
　　Negrocoachmenandwhite；instrawhats，blackhats，whitehats，glazedcaps，furcaps；incoatsofdrab，black，brown，green，blue，nankeen，stripedjeanandlinen；andthere，inthatoneinstancelookwhileitpasses，oritwillbetoolate，insuitsoflivery。
　　Somesouthernrepublicanthat，whoputshisblacksinuniform，andswellswithSultanpompandpower。Yonder，wherethatphaetonwiththewell-clippedpairofgrayshasstopped-standingattheirheadsnow-isaYorkshiregroom，whohasnotbeenverylongintheseparts，andlookssorrowfullyroundforacompanionpairoftop-boots，whichhemaytraversethecityhalfayearwithoutmeeting。Heavensavetheladies，howtheydress!Wehaveseenmorecoloursinthesetenminutes，thanweshouldhaveseenelsewhere，inasmanydays。Whatvariousparasols!whatrainbowsilksandsatins!whatpinkingofthinstockings，andpinchingofthinshoes，andflutteringofribbonsandsilktassels，anddisplayofrichcloakswithgaudyhoodsandlinings!Theyounggentlemenarefond，yousee，ofturningdowntheirshirt-collarsandcultivatingtheirwhiskers，especiallyunderthechin；buttheycannotapproachtheladiesintheirdressorbearing，being，tosaythetruth，humanityofquiteanothersort。Byronsofthedeskandcounter，passon，andletusseewhatkindofmenthosearebehindye:thosetwolabourersinholidayclothes，ofwhomonecarriesinhishandacrumpledscrapofpaperfromwhichhetriestospelloutahardname，whiletheotherlooksaboutforitonallthedoorsandwindows。
　　Irishmenboth!Youmightknowthem，iftheyweremasked，bytheirlong-tailedbluecoatsandbrightbuttons，andtheirdrabtrousers，whichtheywearlikemenwellusedtoworkingdresses，whoareeasyinnoothers。Itwouldbehardtokeepyourmodelrepublicsgoing，withoutthecountrymenandcountrywomenofthosetwolabourers。
　　Forwhoelsewoulddig，anddelve，anddrudge，anddodomesticwork，andmakecanalsandroads，andexecutegreatlinesofInternalImprovement!Irishmenboth，andsorelypuzzledtoo，tofindoutwhattheyseek。Letusgodown，andhelpthem，fortheloveofhome，andthatspiritoflibertywhichadmitsofhonestservicetohonestmen，andhonestworkforhonestbread，nomatterwhatitbe。
　　That'swell!Wehavegotattherightaddressatlast，thoughitiswritteninstrangecharacterstruly，andmighthavebeenscrawledwiththeblunthandleofthespadethewriterbetterknowstheuseof，thanapen。Theirwayliesyonder，butwhatbusinesstakesthemthere？Theycarrysavings:tohoardup？No。Theyarebrothers，thosemen。Onecrossedtheseaalone，andworkingveryhardforonehalfyear，andlivingharder，savedfundsenoughtobringtheotherout。Thatdone，theyworkedtogethersidebyside，contentedlysharinghardlabourandhardlivingforanotherterm，andthentheirsisterscame，andthenanotherbrother，andlastly，theiroldmother。Andwhatnow？Why，thepooroldcroneisrestlessinastrangeland，andyearnstolayherbones，shesays，amongherpeopleintheoldgraveyardathome:andsotheygotopayherpassageback:andGodhelpherandthem，andeverysimpleheart，andallwhoturntotheJerusalemoftheiryoungerdays，andhaveanaltar-fireuponthecoldhearthoftheirfathers。
　　Thisnarrowthoroughfare，bakingandblisteringinthesun，isWallStreet:theStockExchangeandLombardStreetofNewYork。Manyarapidfortunehasbeenmadeinthisstreet，andmanyanolessrapidruin。Someoftheseverymerchantswhomyouseehangingaboutherenow，havelockedupmoneyintheirstrong-boxes，likethemanintheArabianNights，andopeningthemagain，havefoundbutwitheredleaves。Below，herebythewater-side，wherethebowspritsofshipsstretchacrossthefootway，andalmostthrustthemselvesintothewindows，liethenobleAmericanvesselswhichhavingmadetheirPacketServicethefinestintheworld。Theyhavebroughthithertheforeignerswhoaboundinallthestreets:
　　not，perhaps，thattherearemorehere，thaninothercommercialcities；butelsewhere，theyhaveparticularhaunts，andyoumustfindthemout；here，theypervadethetown。
　　WemustcrossBroadwayagain；gainingsomerefreshmentfromtheheat，inthesightofthegreatblocksofcleanicewhicharebeingcarriedintoshopsandbar-rooms；andthepine-applesandwater-
　　melonsprofuselydisplayedforsale。Finestreetsofspacioushouseshere，yousee!-WallStreethasfurnishedanddismantledmanyofthemveryoften-andhereadeepgreenleafysquare。Besurethatisahospitablehousewithinmatestobeaffectionatelyrememberedalways，wheretheyhavetheopendoorandprettyshowofplantswithin，andwherethechildwithlaughingeyesispeepingoutofwindowatthelittledogbelow。Youwonderwhatmaybetheuseofthistallflagstaffintheby-street，withsomethinglikeLiberty'shead-dressonitstop:sodoI。Butthereisapassionfortallflagstaffshereabout，andyoumayseeitstwinbrotherinfiveminutes，ifyouhaveamind。
　　AgainacrossBroadway，andso-passingfromthemany-colouredcrowdandglitteringshops-intoanotherlongmainstreet，theBowery。Arailroadyonder，see，wheretwostouthorsestrotalong，drawingascoreortwoofpeopleandagreatwoodenark，withease。