ThereisaverypleasantandcommodiouslibraryintheCapitol；andfromabalconyinfront，thebird's-eyeview，ofwhichIhavejustspoken，maybehad，togetherwithabeautifulprospectoftheadjacentcountry。Inoneoftheornamentedportionsofthebuilding，thereisafigureofJustice；whereuntotheGuideBooksays，'theartistatfirstcontemplatedgivingmoreofnudity，buthewaswarnedthatthepublicsentimentinthiscountrywouldnotadmitofit，andinhiscautionhehasgone，perhaps，intotheoppositeextreme。'PoorJustice!shehasbeenmadetowearmuchstrangergarmentsinAmericathanthoseshepinesin，intheCapitol。Letushopethatshehaschangedherdress-makersincetheywerefashioned，andthatthepublicsentimentofthecountrydidnotcutouttheclothesshehidesherlovelyfigurein，justnow。
　　TheHouseofRepresentativesisabeautifulandspacioushall，ofsemicircularshape，supportedbyhandsomepillars。Onepartofthegalleryisappropriatedtotheladies，andtheretheysitinfrontrows，andcomein，andgoout，asataplayorconcert。Thechairiscanopied，andraisedconsiderablyabovetheflooroftheHouse；
　　andeverymemberhasaneasychairandawritingdesktohimself:
　　whichisdenouncedbysomepeopleoutofdoorsasamostunfortunateandinjudiciousarrangement，tendingtolongsittingsandprosaicspeeches。Itisanelegantchambertolookat，butasingularlybadoneforallpurposesofhearing。TheSenate，whichissmaller，isfreefromthisobjection，andisexceedinglywelladaptedtotheusesforwhichitisdesigned。Thesittings，Ineedhardlyadd，takeplaceintheday；andtheparliamentaryformsaremodelledonthoseoftheoldcountry。
　　Iwassometimesasked，inmyprogressthroughotherplaces，whetherIhadnotbeenverymuchimpressedbytheHEADSofthelawmakersatWashington；meaningnottheirchiefsandleaders，butliterallytheirindividualandpersonalheads，whereontheirhairgrew，andwherebythephrenologicalcharacterofeachlegislatorwasexpressed:andIalmostasoftenstruckmyquestionerdumbwithindignantconsternationbyanswering'No，thatIdidn'trememberbeingatallovercome。'AsImust，atwhateverhazard，repeattheavowalhere，Iwillfollowitupbyrelatingmyimpressionsonthissubjectinasfewwordsaspossible。
　　Inthefirstplace-itmaybefromsomeimperfectdevelopmentofmyorganofveneration-Idonotrememberhavingeverfaintedaway，orhavingevenbeenmovedtotearsofjoyfulpride，atsightofanylegislativebody。IhavebornetheHouseofCommonslikeaman，andhaveyieldedtonoweakness，butslumber，intheHouseofLords。Ihaveseenelectionsforboroughandcounty，andhaveneverbeenimpellednomatterwhichpartywontodamagemyhatbythrowingitupintotheairintriumph，ortocrackmyvoicebyshoutingforthanyreferencetoourGloriousConstitution，tothenoblepurityofourindependentvoters，or，theunimpeachableintegrityofourindependentmembers。Havingwithstoodsuchstrongattacksuponmyfortitude，itispossiblethatImaybeofacoldandinsensibletemperament，amountingtoiciness，insuchmatters；
　　andthereforemyimpressionsofthelivepillarsoftheCapitolatWashingtonmustbereceivedwithsuchgrainsofallowanceasthisfreeconfessionmayseemtodemand。
　　DidIseeinthispublicbodyanassemblageofmen，boundtogetherinthesacrednamesofLibertyandFreedom，andsoassertingthechastedignityofthosetwingoddesses，inalltheirdiscussions，astoexaltatoncetheEternalPrinciplestowhichtheirnamesaregiven，andtheirowncharacterandthecharacteroftheircountrymen，intheadmiringeyesofthewholeworld？
　　Itwasbutaweek，sinceanaged，grey-hairedman，alastinghonourtothelandthatgavehimbirth，whohasdonegoodservicetohiscountry，ashisforefathersdid，andwhowillberememberedscoresuponscoresofyearsafterthewormsbredinitscorruption，arebutsomanygrainsofdust-itwasbutaweek，sincethisoldmanhadstoodfordaysuponhistrialbeforethisverybody，chargedwithhavingdaredtoasserttheinfamyofthattraffic，whichhasforitsaccursedmerchandisemenandwomen，andtheirunbornchildren。Yes。Andpubliclyexhibitedinthesamecityallthewhile；gilded，framedandglazedhungupforgeneraladmiration；
　　showntostrangersnotwithshame，butpride；itsfacenotturnedtowardsthewall，itselfnottakendownandburned；istheUnanimousDeclarationoftheThirteenUnitedStatesofAmerica，whichsolemnlydeclaresthatAllMenarecreatedEqual；andareendowedbytheirCreatorwiththeInalienableRightsofLife，Liberty，andthePursuitofHappiness!
　　Itwasnotamonth，sincethissamebodyhadsatcalmlyby，andheardaman，oneofthemselves，withoathswhichbeggarsintheirdrinkreject，threatentocutanother'sthroatfromeartoear。
　　Therehesat，amongthem；notcrushedbythegeneralfeelingoftheassembly，butasgoodamanasany。
　　Therewasbutaweektocome，andanotherofthatbody，fordoinghisdutytothosewhosenthimthere；forclaiminginaRepublictheLibertyandFreedomofexpressingtheirsentiments，andmakingknowntheirprayer；wouldbetried，foundguilty，andhavestrongcensurepasseduponhimbytherest。Hiswasagraveoffenceindeed；foryearsbefore，hehadrisenupandsaid，'Agangofmaleandfemaleslavesforsale，warrantedtobreedlikecattle，linkedtoeachotherbyironfetters，arepassingnowalongtheopenstreetbeneaththewindowsofyourTempleofEquality!Look!'ButtherearemanykindsofhuntersengagedinthePursuitofHappiness，andtheygovariouslyarmed。ItistheInalienableRightofsomeamongthem，totakethefieldafterTHEIRHappinessequippedwithcatandcartwhip，stocks，andironcollar，andtoshouttheirviewhalloa!alwaysinpraiseofLibertytothemusicofclankingchainsandbloodystripes。
　　Wheresatthemanylegislatorsofcoarsethreats；ofwordsandblowssuchascoalheaversdealuponeachother，whentheyforgettheirbreeding？Oneveryside。Everysessionhaditsanecdotesofthatkind，andtheactorswereallthere。
　　DidIrecogniseinthisassembly，abodyofmen，who，applyingthemselvesinanewworldtocorrectsomeofthefalsehoodsandvicesoftheold，purifiedtheavenuestoPublicLife，pavedthedirtywaystoPlaceandPower，debatedandmadelawsfortheCommonGood，andhadnopartybuttheirCountry？
　　Isawinthem，thewheelsthatmovethemeanestperversionofvirtuousPoliticalMachinerythattheworsttoolseverwrought。
　　Despicabletrickeryatelections；under-handedtamperingswithpublicofficers；cowardlyattacksuponopponents，withscurrilousnewspapersforshields，andhiredpensfordaggers；shamefultrucklingstomercenaryknaves，whoseclaimtobeconsidered，is，thateverydayandweektheysownewcropsofruinwiththeirvenaltypes，whicharethedragon'steethofyore，ineverythingbutsharpness；aidingsandabettingsofeverybadinclinationinthepopularmind，andartfulsuppressionsofallitsgoodinfluences:
　　suchthingsasthese，andinaword，DishonestFactioninitsmostdepravedandmostunblushingform，staredoutfromeverycornerofthecrowdedhall。
　　DidIseeamongthem，theintelligenceandrefinement:thetrue，honest，patrioticheartofAmerica？Hereandthere，weredropsofitsbloodandlife，buttheyscarcelycolouredthestreamofdesperateadventurerswhichsetsthatwayforprofitandforpay。
　　Itisthegameofthesemen，andoftheirprofligateorgans，tomakethestrifeofpoliticssofierceandbrutal，andsodestructiveofallself-respectinworthymen，thatsensitiveanddelicate-mindedpersonsshallbekeptaloof，andthey，andsuchasthey，belefttobattleouttheirselfishviewsunchecked。Andthusthislowestofallscramblingfightsgoeson，andtheywhoinothercountrieswould，fromtheirintelligenceandstation，mostaspiretomakethelaws，dohererecoilthefarthestfromthatdegradation。
　　Thatthereare，amongtherepresentativesofthepeopleinbothHouses，andamongallparties，somemenofhighcharacterandgreatabilities，Ineednotsay。TheforemostamongthosepoliticianswhoareknowninEurope，havebeenalreadydescribed，andIseenoreasontodepartfromtheruleIhavelaiddownformyguidance，ofabstainingfromallmentionofindividuals。Itwillbesufficienttoadd，thattothemostfavourableaccountsthathavebeenwrittenofthem，Imorethanfullyandmostheartilysubscribe；andthatpersonalintercourseandfreecommunicationhavebredwithinme，nottheresultpredictedintheverydoubtfulproverb，butincreasedadmirationandrespect。Theyarestrikingmentolookat，hardtodeceive，prompttoact，lionsinenergy，Crichtonsinvariedaccomplishments，Indiansinfireofeyeandgesture，Americansinstrongandgenerousimpulse；andtheyaswellrepresentthehonourandwisdomoftheircountryathome，asthedistinguishedgentlemanwhoisnowitsMinisterattheBritishCourtsustainsitshighestcharacterabroad。
　　Ivisitedbothhousesnearlyeveryday，duringmystayinWashington。OnmyinitiatoryvisittotheHouseofRepresentatives，theydividedagainstadecisionofthechair；butthechairwon。ThesecondtimeIwent，thememberwhowasspeaking，beinginterruptedbyalaugh，mimickedit，asonechildwouldinquarrellingwithanother，andadded，'thathewouldmakehonourablegentlemenopposite，singoutalittlemoreontheothersideoftheirmouthspresently。'Butinterruptionsarerare；thespeakerbeingusuallyheardinsilence。Therearemorequarrelsthanwithus，andmorethreateningsthangentlemenareaccustomedtoexchangeinanycivilisedsocietyofwhichwehaverecord:butfarm-yardimitationshavenotasyetbeenimportedfromtheParliamentoftheUnitedKingdom。Thefeatureinoratorywhichappearstobethemostpractised，andmostrelished，istheconstantrepetitionofthesameideaorshadowofanideainfreshwords；andtheinquiryoutofdoorsisnot，'Whatdidhesay？'but，'Howlongdidhespeak？'These，however，arebutenlargementsofaprinciplewhichprevailselsewhere。
　　TheSenateisadignifiedanddecorousbody，anditsproceedingsareconductedwithmuchgravityandorder。Bothhousesarehandsomelycarpeted；butthestatetowhichthesecarpetsarereducedbytheuniversaldisregardofthespittoonwithwhicheveryhonourablememberisaccommodated，andtheextraordinaryimprovementsonthepatternwhicharesquirtedanddabbleduponitineverydirection，donotadmitofbeingdescribed。Iwillmerelyobserve，thatIstronglyrecommendallstrangersnottolookatthefloor；andiftheyhappentodropanything，thoughitbetheirpurse，nottopickitupwithanunglovedhandonanyaccount。
　　Itissomewhatremarkabletoo，atfirst，tosaytheleast，toseesomanyhonourablememberswithswelledfaces；anditisscarcelylessremarkabletodiscoverthatthisappearanceiscausedbythequantityoftobaccotheycontrivetostowwithinthehollowofthecheek。Itisstrangeenoughtoo，toseeanhonourablegentlemanleaningbackinhistiltedchairwithhislegsonthedeskbeforehim，shapingaconvenient'plug'withhispenknife，andwhenitisquitereadyforuse，shootingtheoldonefromhismouth，asfromapop-gun，andclappingthenewoneinitsplace。
　　Iwassurprisedtoobservethatevensteadyoldchewersofgreatexperience，arenotalwaysgoodmarksmen，whichhasratherinclinedmetodoubtthatgeneralproficiencywiththerifle，ofwhichwehaveheardsomuchinEngland。Severalgentlemencalleduponmewho，inthecourseofconversation，frequentlymissedthespittoonatfivepaces；andonebuthewascertainlyshort-sightedmistooktheclosedsashfortheopenwindow，atthree。Onanotheroccasion，whenIdinedout，andwassittingwithtwoladiesandsomegentlemenroundafirebeforedinner，oneofthecompanyfellshortofthefireplace，sixdistincttimes。Iamdisposedtothink，however，thatthiswasoccasionedbyhisnotaimingatthatobject；astherewasawhitemarblehearthbeforethefender，whichwasmoreconvenient，andmayhavesuitedhispurposebetter。
　　ThePatentOfficeatWashington，furnishesanextraordinaryexampleofAmericanenterpriseandingenuity；fortheimmensenumberofmodelsitcontainsaretheaccumulatedinventionsofonlyfiveyears；thewholeofthepreviouscollectionhavingbeendestroyedbyfire。Theelegantstructureinwhichtheyarearrangedisoneofdesignratherthanexecution，forthereisbutonesideerectedoutoffour，thoughtheworksarestopped。ThePostOfficeisaverycompactandverybeautifulbuilding。Inoneofthedepartments，amongacollectionofrareandcuriousarticles，aredepositedthepresentswhichhavebeenmadefromtimetotimetotheAmericanambassadorsatforeigncourtsbythevariouspotentatestowhomtheyweretheaccreditedagentsoftheRepublic；
　　giftswhichbythelawtheyarenotpermittedtoretain。IconfessthatIlookeduponthisasaverypainfulexhibition，andonebynomeansflatteringtothenationalstandardofhonestyandhonour。
　　Thatcanscarcelybeahighstateofmoralfeelingwhichimaginesagentlemanofreputeandstation，likelytobecorrupted，inthedischargeofhisduty，bythepresentofasnuff-box，orarichly-
　　mountedsword，oranEasternshawl；andsurelytheNationwhoreposesconfidenceinherappointedservants，islikelytobebetterserved，thanshewhomakesthemthesubjectofsuchverymeanandpaltrysuspicions。
　　AtGeorgeTown，inthesuburbs，thereisaJesuitCollege；
　　delightfullysituated，and，sofarasIhadanopportunityofseeing，wellmanaged。ManypersonswhoarenotmembersoftheRomishChurch，availthemselves，Ibelieve，oftheseinstitutions，andoftheadvantageousopportunitiestheyaffordfortheeducationoftheirchildren。Theheightsofthisneighbourhood，abovethePotomacRiver，areverypicturesque:andarefree，Ishouldconceive，fromsomeoftheinsalubritiesofWashington。Theair，atthatelevation，wasquitecoolandrefreshing，wheninthecityitwasburninghot。
　　ThePresident'smansionismorelikeanEnglishclub-house，bothwithinandwithout，thananyotherkindofestablishmentwithwhichIcancompareit。Theornamentalgroundaboutithasbeenlaidoutingardenwalks；theyarepretty，andagreeabletotheeye；thoughtheyhavethatuncomfortableairofhavingbeenmadeyesterday，whichisfarfromfavourabletothedisplayofsuchbeauties。
　　Myfirstvisittothishousewasonthemorningaftermyarrival，whenIwascarriedthitherbyanofficialgentleman，whowassokindastochargehimselfwithmypresentationtothePresident。
　　Weenteredalargehall，andhavingtwiceorthricerungabellwhichnobodyanswered，walkedwithoutfurtherceremonythroughtheroomsonthegroundfloor，asdiversothergentlemenmostlywiththeirhatson，andtheirhandsintheirpocketsweredoingveryleisurely。Someofthesehadladieswiththem，towhomtheywereshowingthepremises；otherswereloungingonthechairsandsofas；
　　others，inaperfectstateofexhaustionfromlistlessness，wereyawningdrearily。Thegreaterportionofthisassemblagewereratherassertingtheirsupremacythandoinganythingelse，astheyhadnoparticularbusinessthere，thatanybodyknewof。Afewwerecloselyeyeingthemovables，asiftomakequitesurethatthePresidentwhowasfarfrompopularhadnotmadeawaywithanyofthefurniture，orsoldthefixturesforhisprivatebenefit。
　　Afterglancingattheseloungers；whowerescatteredoveraprettydrawing-room，openinguponaterracewhichcommandedabeautifulprospectoftheriverandtheadjacentcountry；andwhoweresauntering，too，aboutalargerstate-roomcalledtheEasternDrawing-room；wewentup-stairsintoanotherchamber，wherewerecertainvisitors，waitingforaudiences。Atsightofmyconductor，ablackinplainclothesandyellowslipperswhowasglidingnoiselesslyabout，andwhisperingmessagesintheearsofthemoreimpatient，madeasignofrecognition，andglidedofftoannouncehim。
　　Wehadpreviouslylookedintoanotherchamberfittedallroundwithagreat，bare，woodendeskorcounter，whereonlayfilesofnewspapers，towhichsundrygentlemenwerereferring。Buttherewerenosuchmeansofbeguilingthetimeinthisapartment，whichwasasunpromisingandtiresomeasanywaiting-roominoneofourpublicestablishments，oranyphysician'sdining-roomduringhishoursofconsultationathome。
　　Thereweresomefifteenortwentypersonsintheroom。One，atall，wiry，muscularoldman，fromthewest；sunburntandswarthy；
　　withabrownwhitehatonhisknees，andagiantumbrellarestingbetweenhislegs；whosatboltuprightinhischair，frowningsteadilyatthecarpet，andtwitchingthehardlinesabouthismouth，asifhehadmadeuphismind'tofix'thePresidentonwhathehadtosay，andwouldn'tbatehimagrain。Another，aKentuckyfarmer，six-feet-sixinheight，withhishaton，andhishandsunderhiscoat-tails，wholeanedagainstthewallandkickedthefloorwithhisheel，asthoughhehadTime'sheadunderhisshoe，andwereliterally'killing'him。Athird，anoval-faced，bilious-
　　lookingman，withsleekblackhaircroppedclose，andwhiskersandbeardshaveddowntobluedots，whosuckedtheheadofathickstick，andfromtimetotimetookitoutofhismouth，toseehowitwasgettingon。Afourthdidnothingbutwhistle。Afifthdidnothingbutspit。Andindeedallthesegentlemenweresoveryperseveringandenergeticinthislatterparticular，andbestowedtheirfavourssoabundantlyuponthecarpet，thatItakeitforgrantedthePresidentialhousemaidshavehighwages，or，tospeakmoregenteelly，anampleamountof'compensation:'whichistheAmericanwordforsalary，inthecaseofallpublicservants。
　　Wehadnotwaitedinthisroommanyminutes，beforetheblackmessengerreturned，andconductedusintoanotherofsmallerdimensions，where，atabusiness-liketablecoveredwithpapers，satthePresidenthimself。Helookedsomewhatwornandanxious，andwellhemight；beingatwarwitheverybody-buttheexpressionofhisfacewasmildandpleasant，andhismannerwasremarkablyunaffected，gentlemanly，andagreeable。Ithoughtthatinhiswholecarriageanddemeanour，hebecamehisstationsingularlywell。
　　Beingadvisedthatthesensibleetiquetteoftherepublicancourtadmittedofatraveller，likemyself，declining，withoutanyimpropriety，aninvitationtodinner，whichdidnotreachmeuntilIhadconcludedmyarrangementsforleavingWashingtonsomedaysbeforethattowhichitreferred，Ionlyreturnedtothishouseonce。Itwasontheoccasionofoneofthosegeneralassemblieswhichareheldoncertainnights，betweenthehoursofnineandtwelveo'clock，andarecalled，ratheroddly，Levees。
　　Iwent，withmywife，ataboutten。Therewasaprettydensecrowdofcarriagesandpeopleinthecourt-yard，andsofarasIcouldmakeout，therewerenoveryclearregulationsforthetakinguporsettingdownofcompany。Therewerecertainlynopolicementosoothestartledhorses，eitherbysawingattheirbridlesorflourishingtruncheonsintheireyes；andIamreadytomakeoaththatnoinoffensivepersonswereknockedviolentlyonthehead，orpokedacutelyintheirbacksorstomachs；orbroughttoastandstillbyanysuchgentlemeans，andthentakenintocustodyfornotmovingon。Buttherewasnoconfusionordisorder。Ourcarriagereachedtheporchinitsturn，withoutanyblustering，swearing，shouting，backing，orotherdisturbance:andwedismountedwithasmucheaseandcomfortasthoughwehadbeenescortedbythewholeMetropolitanForcefromAtoZinclusive。
　　Thesuiteofroomsontheground-floorwerelightedup，andamilitarybandwasplayinginthehall。Inthesmallerdrawing-
　　room，thecentreofacircleofcompany，werethePresidentandhisdaughter-in-law，whoactedastheladyofthemansion；andaveryinteresting，graceful，andaccomplishedladytoo。Onegentlemanwhostoodamongthisgroup，appearedtotakeuponhimselfthefunctionsofamasteroftheceremonies。Isawnootherofficersorattendants，andnonewereneeded。
　　Thegreatdrawing-room，whichIhavealreadymentioned，andtheotherchambersontheground-floor，werecrowdedtoexcess。Thecompanywasnot，inoursenseoftheterm，select，foritcomprehendedpersonsofverymanygradesandclasses；norwasthereanygreatdisplayofcostlyattire:indeed，someofthecostumesmayhavebeen，foraughtIknow，grotesqueenough。Butthedecorumandproprietyofbehaviourwhichprevailed，wereunbrokenbyanyrudeordisagreeableincident；andeveryman，evenamongthemiscellaneouscrowdinthehallwhowereadmittedwithoutanyordersorticketstolookon，appearedtofeelthathewasapartoftheInstitution，andwasresponsibleforitspreservingabecomingcharacter，andappearingtothebestadvantage。
　　Thatthesevisitors，too，whatevertheirstation，werenotwithoutsomerefinementoftasteandappreciationofintellectualgifts，andgratitudetothosemenwho，bythepeacefulexerciseofgreatabilities，shednewcharmsandassociationsuponthehomesoftheircountrymen，andelevatetheircharacterinotherlands，wasmostearnestlytestifiedbytheirreceptionofWashingtonIrving，mydearfriend，whohadrecentlybeenappointedMinisteratthecourtofSpain，andwhowasamongthemthatnight，inhisnewcharacter，forthefirstandlasttimebeforegoingabroad。IsincerelybelievethatinallthemadnessofAmericanpolitics，fewpublicmenwouldhavebeensoearnestly，devotedly，andaffectionatelycaressed，asthismostcharmingwriter:andIhaveseldomrespectedapublicassemblymore，thanIdidthiseagerthrong，whenIsawthemturningwithonemindfromnoisyoratorsandofficersofstate，andflockingwithagenerousandhonestimpulseroundthemanofquietpursuits:proudinhispromotionasreflectingbackupontheircountry:andgratefultohimwiththeirwholeheartsforthestoreofgracefulfancieshehadpouredoutamongthem。Longmayhedispensesuchtreasureswithunsparinghand；andlongmaytheyrememberhimasworthily!
　　ThetermwehadassignedforthedurationofourstayinWashingtonwasnowatanend，andweweretobegintotravel；fortherailroaddistanceswehadtraversedyet，injourneyingamongtheseoldertowns，areonthatgreatcontinentlookeduponasnothing。
　　IhadatfirstintendedgoingSouth-toCharleston。ButwhenI
　　cametoconsiderthelengthoftimewhichthisjourneywouldoccupy，andtheprematureheatoftheseason，whichevenatWashingtonhadbeenoftenverytrying；andweighedmoreover，inmyownmind，thepainoflivingintheconstantcontemplationofslavery，againstthemorethandoubtfulchancesofmyeverseeingit，inthetimeIhadtospare，strippedofthedisguisesinwhichitwouldcertainlybedressed，andsoaddinganyitemtothehostoffactsalreadyheapedtogetheronthesubject；IbegantolistentooldwhisperingswhichhadoftenbeenpresenttomeathomeinEngland，whenIlittlethoughtofeverbeinghere；andtodreamagainofcitiesgrowingup，likepalacesinfairytales，amongthewildsandforestsofthewest。
　　TheadviceIreceivedinmostquarterswhenIbegantoyieldtomydesireoftravellingtowardsthatpointofthecompasswas，accordingtocustom，sufficientlycheerless:mycompanionbeingthreatenedwithmoreperils，dangers，anddiscomforts，thanIcanrememberorwouldcatalogueifIcould；butofwhichitwillbesufficienttoremarkthatblowings-upinsteamboatsandbreakings-
　　downincoacheswereamongtheleast。But，havingawesternroutesketchedoutformebythebestandkindestauthoritytowhichI
　　couldhaveresorted，andputtingnogreatfaithinthesediscouragements，Isoondeterminedonmyplanofaction。
　　Thiswastotravelsouth，onlytoRichmondinVirginia；andthentoturn，andshapeourcoursefortheFarWest；whitherIbeseechthereader'scompany，inanewchapter。
　　CHAPTERIX-ANIGHTSTEAMERONTHEPOTOMACRIVER。VIRGINIAROAD，ANDABLACKDRIVER。RICHMOND。BALTIMORE。THEHARRISBURGMAIL，ANDAGLIMPSEOFTHECITY。ACANALBOAT
　　WEweretoproceedinthefirstinstancebysteamboat；andasitisusualtosleeponboard，inconsequenceofthestarting-hourbeingfouro'clockinthemorning，wewentdowntowhereshelay，atthatveryuncomfortabletimeforsuchexpeditionswhenslippersaremostvaluable，andafamiliarbed，intheperspectiveofanhourortwo，looksuncommonlypleasant。
　　Itisteno'clockatnight:sayhalf-pastten:moonlight，warm，anddullenough。Thesteamernotunlikeachild'sNoah'sarkinform，withthemachineryonthetopoftheroofisridinglazilyupanddown，andbumpingclumsilyagainstthewoodenpier，astherippleoftherivertrifleswithitsunwieldycarcase。Thewharfissomedistancefromthecity。Thereisnobodydownhere；andoneortwodulllampsuponthesteamer'sdecksaretheonlysignsofliferemaining，whenourcoachhasdrivenaway。Assoonasourfootstepsareheardupontheplanks，afatnegress，particularlyfavouredbynatureinrespectofbustle，emergesfromsomedarkstairs，andmarshalsmywifetowardstheladies'cabin，towhichretreatshegoes，followedbyamightybaleofcloaksandgreat-
　　coats。Ivaliantlyresolvenottogotobedatall，buttowalkupanddownthepiertillmorning。
　　Ibeginmypromenade-thinkingofallkindsofdistantthingsandpersons，andofnothingnear-andpaceupanddownforhalf-an-
　　hour。ThenIgoonboardagain；andgettingintothelightofoneofthelamps，lookatmywatchandthinkitmusthavestopped；andwonderwhathasbecomeofthefaithfulsecretarywhomIbroughtalongwithmefromBoston。HeissuppingwithourlatelandlordaFieldMarshal，atleast，nodoubtinhonourofourdeparture，andmaybetwohourslonger。Iwalkagain，butitgetsdullerandduller:themoongoesdown:nextJuneseemsfartheroffinthedark，andtheechoesofmyfootstepsmakemenervous。Ithasturnedcoldtoo；andwalkingupanddownwithoutmycompanioninsuchlonelycircumstances，isbutpooramusement。SoIbreakmystaunchresolution，andthinkitmaybe，perhaps，aswelltogotobed。
　　Igoonboardagain；openthedoorofthegentlemen'scabinandwalkin。Somehoworother-fromitsbeingsoquiet，Isuppose-I
　　havetakenitintomyheadthatthereisnobodythere。Tomyhorrorandamazementitisfullofsleepersineverystage，shape，attitude，andvarietyofslumber:intheberths，onthechairs，onthefloors，onthetables，andparticularlyroundthestove，mydetestedenemy。Itakeanotherstepforward，andslipontheshiningfaceofablacksteward，wholiesrolledinablanketonthefloor。Hejumpsup，grins，halfinpainandhalfinhospitality；whispersmyownnameinmyear；andgropingamongthesleepers，leadsmetomyberth。Standingbesideit，Icounttheseslumberingpassengers，andgetpastforty。Thereisnouseingoingfurther，soIbegintoundress。Asthechairsarealloccupied，andthereisnothingelsetoputmyclotheson，Idepositthemupontheground:notwithoutsoilingmyhands，foritisinthesameconditionasthecarpetsintheCapitol，andfromthesamecause。Havingbutpartiallyundressed，Iclamberonmyshelf，andholdthecurtainopenforafewminuteswhileIlookroundonallmyfellow-travellersagain。Thatdone，Iletitfallonthem，andontheworld:turnround:andgotosleep。
　　Iwake，ofcourse，whenwegetunderweigh，forthereisagooddealofnoise。Thedayisthenjustbreaking。Everybodywakesatthesametime。Someareself-possesseddirectly，andsomearemuchperplexedtomakeoutwheretheyareuntiltheyhaverubbedtheireyes，andleaningononeelbow，lookedaboutthem。Someyawn，somegroan，nearlyallspit，andafewgetup。Iamamongtherisers:
　　foritiseasytofeel，withoutgoingintothefreshair，thattheatmosphereofthecabinisvileinthelastdegree。Ihuddleonmyclothes，godownintothefore-cabin，getshavedbythebarber，andwashmyself。Thewashinganddressingapparatusforthepassengersgenerally，consistsoftwojack-towels，threesmallwoodenbasins，akegofwaterandaladletoserveitoutwith，sixsquareinchesoflooking-glass，twodittodittoofyellowsoap，acombandbrushforthehead，andnothingfortheteeth。Everybodyusesthecombandbrush，exceptmyself。Everybodystarestoseemeusingmyown；
　　andtwoorthreegentlemenarestronglydisposedtobantermeonmyprejudices，butdon't。WhenIhavemademytoilet，Igouponthehurricane-deck，andsetinfortwohoursofhardwalkingupanddown。Thesunisrisingbrilliantly；wearepassingMountVernon，whereWashingtonliesburied；theriveriswideandrapid；anditsbanksarebeautiful。Allthegloryandsplendourofthedayarecomingon，andgrowingbrightereveryminute。
　　Ateighto'clock，webreakfastinthecabinwhereIpassedthenight，butthewindowsanddoorsareallthrownopen，andnowitisfreshenough。Thereisnohurryorgreedinessapparentinthedespatchofthemeal。Itislongerthanatravellingbreakfastwithus；moreorderly，andmorepolite。
　　Soonafternineo'clockwecometoPotomacCreek，wherewearetoland；andthencomestheoddestpartofthejourney。Sevenstage-
　　coachesarepreparingtocarryuson。Someofthemareready，someofthemarenotready。Someofthedriversareblacks，somewhites。Therearefourhorsestoeachcoach，andallthehorses，harnessedorunharnessed，arethere。Thepassengersaregettingoutofthesteamboat，andintothecoaches；theluggageisbeingtransferredinnoisywheelbarrows；thehorsesarefrightened，andimpatienttostart；theblackdriversarechatteringtothemlikesomanymonkeys；andthewhiteoneswhoopinglikesomanydrovers:
　　forthemainthingtobedoneinallkindsofhostleringhere，istomakeasmuchnoiseaspossible。ThecoachesaresomethingliketheFrenchcoaches，butnotnearlysogood。Inlieuofsprings，theyarehungonbandsofthestrongestleather。Thereisverylittlechoiceordifferencebetweenthem；andtheymaybelikenedtothecarportionoftheswingsatanEnglishfair，roofed，putuponaxle-treesandwheels，andcurtainedwithpaintedcanvas。
　　Theyarecoveredwithmudfromtherooftothewheel-tire，andhaveneverbeencleanedsincetheywerefirstbuilt。
　　TheticketswehavereceivedonboardthesteamboataremarkedNo。
　　1，sowebelongtocoachNo。1。Ithrowmycoatonthebox，andhoistmywifeandhermaidintotheinside。Ithasonlyonestep，andthatbeingaboutayardfromtheground，isusuallyapproachedbyachair:whenthereisnochair，ladiestrustinProvidence。
　　Thecoachholdsnineinside，havingaseatacrossfromdoortodoor，whereweinEnglandputourlegs:sothatthereisonlyonefeatmoredifficultintheperformancethangettingin，andthatis，gettingoutagain。Thereisonlyoneoutsidepassenger，andhesitsuponthebox。AsIamthatone，Iclimbup；andwhiletheyarestrappingtheluggageontheroof，andheapingitintoakindoftraybehind，haveagoodopportunityoflookingatthedriver。
　　Heisanegro-veryblackindeed。Heisdressedinacoarsepepper-and-saltsuitexcessivelypatchedanddarnedparticularlyattheknees，greystockings，enormousunblackedhigh-lowshoes，andveryshorttrousers。Hehastwooddgloves:oneofparti-
　　colouredworsted，andoneofleather。Hehasaveryshortwhip，brokeninthemiddleandbandagedupwithstring。Andyethewearsalow-crowned，broad-brimmed，blackhat:faintlyshadowingforthakindofinsaneimitationofanEnglishcoachman!Butsomebodyinauthoritycries'Goahead!'asIammakingtheseobservations。Themailtakestheleadinafour-horsewaggon，andallthecoachesfollowinprocession:headedbyNo。1。
　　Bytheway，wheneveranEnglishmanwouldcry'Allright!'anAmericancries'Goahead!'whichissomewhatexpressiveofthenationalcharacterofthetwocountries。
　　Thefirsthalf-mileoftheroadisoverbridgesmadeoflooseplankslaidacrosstwoparallelpoles，whichtiltupasthewheelsrolloverthem；andINtheriver。Theriverhasaclayeybottomandisfullofholes，sothathalfahorseisconstantlydisappearingunexpectedly，andcan'tbefoundagainforsometime。
　　Butwegetpasteventhis，andcometotheroaditself，whichisaseriesofalternateswampsandgravel-pits。Atremendousplaceisclosebeforeus，theblackdriverrollshiseyes，screwshismouthupveryround，andlooksstraightbetweenthetwoleaders，asifheweresayingtohimself，'Wehavedonethisoftenbefore，butNOWI
　　thinkweshallhaveacrash。'Hetakesareinineachhand；jerksandpullsatboth；anddancesonthesplashboardwithbothfeetkeepinghisseat，ofcourselikethelatelamentedDucrowontwoofhisfierycoursers。Wecometothespot，sinkdowninthemirenearlytothecoachwindows，tiltononesideatanangleofforty-
　　fivedegrees，andstickthere。Theinsidesscreamdismally；thecoachstops；thehorsesflounder；alltheothersixcoachesstop；
　　andtheirfour-and-twentyhorsesflounderlikewise:butmerelyforcompany，andinsympathywithours。Thenthefollowingcircumstancesoccur。
　　BLACKDRIVERtothehorses。'Hi!'
　　Nothinghappens。Insidesscreamagain。
　　BLACKDRIVERtothehorses。'Ho!'
　　Horsesplunge，andsplashtheblackdriver。
　　GENTLEMANINSIDElookingout。'Why，whatonairth-
　　Gentlemanreceivesavarietyofsplashesanddrawshisheadinagain，withoutfinishinghisquestionorwaitingforananswer。
　　BLACKDRIVERstilltothehorses。'Jiddy!Jiddy!'
　　Horsespullviolently，dragthecoachoutofthehole，anddrawitupabank；sosteep，thattheblackdriver'slegsflyupintotheair，andhegoesbackamongtheluggageontheroof。Butheimmediatelyrecovershimself，andcriesstilltothehorses，'Pill!'
　　Noeffect。Onthecontrary，thecoachbeginstorollbackuponNo。
　　2，whichrollsbackuponNo。3，whichrollsbackuponNo。4，andsoon，untilNo。7isheardtocurseandswear，nearlyaquarterofamilebehind。
　　BLACKDRIVERlouderthanbefore。'Pill!'
　　Horsesmakeanotherstruggletogetupthebank，andagainthecoachrollsbackward。
　　BLACKDRIVERlouderthanbefore。'Pe-e-e-ill!'
　　Horsesmakeadesperatestruggle。
　　BLACKDRIVERrecoveringspirits。'Hi，Jiddy，Jiddy，Pill!'
　　Horsesmakeanothereffort。
　　BLACKDRIVERwithgreatvigour。'AllyLoo!Hi。Jiddy，Jiddy。
　　Pill。AllyLoo!'
　　Horsesalmostdoit。
　　BLACKDRIVERwithhiseyesstartingoutofhishead。'Lee，den。
　　Lee，dere。Hi。Jiddy，Jiddy。Pill。AllyLoo。Lee-e-e-e-e!'
　　Theyrunupthebank，andgodownagainontheothersideatafearfulpace。Itisimpossibletostopthem，andatthebottomthereisadeephollow，fullofwater。Thecoachrollsfrightfully。Theinsidesscream。Themudandwaterflyaboutus。
　　Theblackdriverdanceslikeamadman。Suddenlyweareallrightbysomeextraordinarymeans，andstoptobreathe。
　　Ablackfriendoftheblackdriverissittingonafence。Theblackdriverrecogniseshimbytwirlinghisheadroundandroundlikeaharlequin，rollinghiseyes，shrugginghisshoulders，andgrinningfromeartoear。Hestopsshort，turnstome，andsays:
　　'Weshallgetyouthroughsa，likeafiddle，andhopeapleaseyouwhenwegetyouthroughsa。Old'oomanathomesa:'chucklingverymuch。'Outsidegentlemansa，heoftenrememberold'oomanathomesa，'grinningagain。
　　'Ayay，we'lltakecareoftheoldwoman。Don'tbeafraid。'
　　Theblackdrivergrinsagain，butthereisanotherhole，andbeyondthat，anotherbank，closebeforeus。Sohestopsshort:criestothehorsesagain'Easy。Easyden。Ease。Steady。Hi。Jiddy。
　　Pill。Ally。Loo，'butnever'Lee!'untilwearereducedtotheverylastextremity，andareinthemidstofdifficulties，extricationfromwhichappearstobeallbutimpossible。
　　Andsowedothetenmilesorthereaboutsintwohoursandahalf；
　　breakingnobones，thoughbruisingagreatmany；andinshortgettingthroughthedistance，'likeafiddle。'
　　ThissingularkindofcoachingterminatesatFredericksburgh，whencethereisarailwaytoRichmond。Thetractofcountrythroughwhichittakesitscoursewasonceproductive；butthesoilhasbeenexhaustedbythesystemofemployingagreatamountofslavelabourinforcingcrops，withoutstrengtheningtheland:anditisnowlittlebetterthanasandydesertovergrownwithtrees。
　　Drearyanduninterestingasitsaspectis，Iwasgladtothehearttofindanythingonwhichoneofthecursesofthishorribleinstitutionhasfallen；andhadgreaterpleasureincontemplatingthewitheredground，thantherichestandmostthrivingcultivationinthesameplacecouldpossiblyhaveaffordedme。
　　Inthisdistrict，asinallotherswhereslaverysitsbrooding，I
　　havefrequentlyheardthisadmitted，evenbythosewhoareitswarmestadvocates:thereisanairofruinanddecayabroad，whichisinseparablefromthesystem。Thebarnsandouthousesaremoulderingaway；theshedsarepatchedandhalfroofless；thelogcabinsbuiltinVirginiawithexternalchimneysmadeofclayorwoodaresqualidinthelastdegree。Thereisnolookofdecentcomfortanywhere。Themiserablestationsbytherailwayside，thegreatwildwood-yards，whencetheengineissuppliedwithfuel；thenegrochildrenrollingonthegroundbeforethecabindoors，withdogsandpigs；thebipedbeastsofburdenslinkingpast:gloomanddejectionareuponthemall。
　　Inthenegrocarbelongingtothetraininwhichwemadethisjourney，wereamotherandherchildrenwhohadjustbeenpurchased；thehusbandandfatherbeingleftbehindwiththeiroldowner。Thechildrencriedthewholeway，andthemotherwasmisery'spicture。ThechampionofLife，Liberty，andthePursuitofHappiness，whohadboughtthem，rodeinthesametrain；and，everytimewestopped，gotdowntoseethattheyweresafe。TheblackinSinbad'sTravelswithoneeyeinthemiddleofhisforeheadwhichshonelikeaburningcoal，wasnature'saristocratcomparedwiththiswhitegentleman。
　　Itwasbetweensixandseveno'clockintheevening，whenwedrovetothehotel:infrontofwhich，andonthetopofthebroadflightofstepsleadingtothedoor，twoorthreecitizenswerebalancingthemselvesonrocking-chairs，andsmokingcigars。Wefounditaverylargeandelegantestablishment，andwereaswellentertainedastravellersneeddesiretobe。Theclimatebeingathirstyone，therewasnever，atanyhouroftheday，ascarcityofloungersinthespaciousbar，oracessationofthemixingofcoolliquors:buttheywereamerrierpeoplehere，andhadmusicalinstrumentsplayingtothemo'nights，whichitwasatreattohearagain。
　　Thenextday，andthenext，werodeandwalkedaboutthetown，whichisdelightfullysituatedoneighthills，overhangingJamesRiver；asparklingstream，studdedhereandtherewithbrightislands，orbrawlingoverbrokenrocks。AlthoughitwasyetbutthemiddleofMarch，theweatherinthissoutherntemperaturewasextremelywarm；thepeech-treesandmagnoliaswereinfullbloom；
　　andthetreesweregreen。Inalowgroundamongthehills，isavalleyknownas'BloodyRun，'fromaterribleconflictwiththeIndianswhichonceoccurredthere。Itisagoodplaceforsuchastruggle，and，likeeveryotherspotIsawassociatedwithanylegendofthatwildpeoplenowsorapidlyfadingfromtheearth，interestedmeverymuch。
　　ThecityistheseatofthelocalparliamentofVirginia；andinitsshadylegislativehalls，someoratorsweredrowsilyholdingforthtothehotnoonday。Bydintofconstantrepetition，however，theseconstitutionalsightshadverylittlemoreinterestformethansomanyparochialvestries；andIwasgladtoexchangethisoneforaloungeinawell-arrangedpubliclibraryofsometenthousandvolumes，andavisittoatobaccomanufactory，wheretheworkmenareallslaves。
　　Isawinthisplacethewholeprocessofpicking，rolling，pressing，drying，packingincasks，andbranding。Allthetobaccothusdealtwith，wasincourseofmanufactureforchewing；andonewouldhavesupposedtherewasenoughinthatonestorehousetohavefilledeventhecomprehensivejawsofAmerica。Inthisform，theweedlooksliketheoil-cakeonwhichwefattencattle；andevenwithoutreferencetoitsconsequences，issufficientlyuninviting。
　　Manyoftheworkmenappearedtobestrongmen，anditishardlynecessarytoaddthattheywerealllabouringquietly，then。Aftertwoo'clockintheday，theyareallowedtosing，acertainnumberatatime。ThehourstrikingwhileIwasthere，sometwentysangahymninparts，andsangitbynomeansill；pursuingtheirworkmeanwhile。AbellrangasIwasabouttoleave，andtheyallpouredforthintoabuildingontheoppositesideofthestreettodinner。IsaidseveraltimesthatIshouldliketoseethemattheirmeal；butasthegentlemantowhomImentionedthisdesireappearedtobesuddenlytakenratherdeaf，Ididnotpursuetherequest。OftheirappearanceIshallhavesomethingtosay，presently。
　　Onthefollowingday，Ivisitedaplantationorfarm，ofabouttwelvehundredacres，ontheoppositebankoftheriver。Hereagain，althoughIwentdownwiththeowneroftheestate，to'thequarter，'asthatpartofitinwhichtheslavesliveiscalled，I
　　wasnotinvitedtoenterintoanyoftheirhuts。AllIsawofthem，was，thattheywereverycrazy，wretchedcabins，neartowhichgroupsofhalf-nakedchildrenbaskedinthesun，orwallowedonthedustyground。ButIbelievethatthisgentlemanisaconsiderateandexcellentmaster，whoinheritedhisfiftyslaves，andisneitherabuyernorasellerofhumanstock；andIamsure，frommyownobservationandconviction，thatheisakind-hearted，worthyman。
　　Theplanter'shousewasanairy，rusticdwelling，thatbroughtDefoe'sdescriptionofsuchplacesstronglytomyrecollection。
　　Thedaywasverywarm，buttheblindsbeingallclosed，andthewindowsanddoorssetwideopen，ashadycoolnessrustledthroughtherooms，whichwasexquisitelyrefreshingaftertheglareandheatwithout。Beforethewindowswasanopenpiazza，where，inwhattheycallthehotweather-whateverthatmaybe-theyslinghammocks，anddrinkanddozeluxuriously。Idonotknowhowtheircoolrejectionsmaytastewithinthehammocks，but，havingexperience，Icanreportthat，outofthem，themoundsoficesandthebowlsofmint-julepandsherry-cobblertheymakeintheselatitudes，arerefreshmentsnevertobethoughtofafterwards，insummer，bythosewhowouldpreservecontentedminds。
　　Therearetwobridgesacrosstheriver:onebelongstotherailroad，andtheother，whichisaverycrazyaffair，istheprivatepropertyofsomeoldladyintheneighbourhood，wholeviestollsuponthetownspeople。Crossingthisbridge，onmywayback，Isawanoticepaintedonthegate，cautioningallpersonstodriveslowly:underapenalty，iftheoffenderwereawhiteman，offivedollars；ifanegro，fifteenstripes。
　　Thesamedecayandgloomthatoverhangthewaybywhichitisapproached，hoverabovethetownofRichmond。Thereareprettyvillasandcheerfulhousesinitsstreets，andNaturesmilesuponthecountryround；butjostlingitshandsomeresidences，likeslaveryitselfgoinghandinhandwithmanyloftyvirtues，aredeplorabletenements，fencesunrepaired，wallscrumblingintoruinousheaps。Hintinggloomilyatthingsbelowthesurface，these，andmanyothertokensofthesamedescription，forcethemselvesuponthenotice，andarerememberedwithdepressinginfluence，whenlivelierfeaturesareforgotten。