Tothosewhoarehappilyunaccustomedtothem，thecountenancesinthestreetsandlabouring-places，too，areshocking。Allmenwhoknowthattherearelawsagainstinstructingslaves，ofwhichthepainsandpenaltiesgreatlyexceedintheiramountthefinesimposedonthosewhomaimandtorturethem，mustbepreparedtofindtheirfacesverylowinthescaleofintellectualexpression。
　　Butthedarkness-notofskin，butmind-whichmeetsthestranger'seyeateveryturn；thebrutalizingandblottingoutofallfairercharacterstracedbyNature'shand；immeasurablyoutdohisworstbelief。Thattravelledcreationofthegreatsatirist'sbrain，whofreshfromlivingamonghorses，peeredfromahighcasementdownuponhisownkindwithtremblinghorror，wasscarcelymorerepelledanddauntedbythesight，thanthosewholookuponsomeofthesefacesforthefirsttimemustsurelybe。
　　Ileftthelastofthembehindmeinthepersonofawretcheddrudge，who，afterrunningtoandfroalldaytillmidnight，andmopinginhisstealthywinksofsleepuponthestairsbetweenwhiles，waswashingthedarkpassagesatfouro'clockinthemorning；andwentuponmywaywithagratefulheartthatIwasnotdoomedtolivewhereslaverywas，andhadneverhadmysensesbluntedtoitswrongsandhorrorsinaslave-rockedcradle。
　　IthadbeenmyintentiontoproceedbyJamesRiverandChesapeakeBaytoBaltimore；butoneofthesteamboatsbeingabsentfromherstationthroughsomeaccident，andthemeansofconveyancebeingconsequentlyrendereduncertain，wereturnedtoWashingtonbythewaywehadcomethereweretwoconstablesonboardthesteamboat，inpursuitofrunawayslaves，andhaltingthereagainforonenight，wentontoBaltimorenextafternoon。
　　ThemostcomfortableofallthehotelsofwhichIhadanyexperienceintheUnitedStates，andtheywerenotafew，isBarnum's，inthatcity:wheretheEnglishtravellerwillfindcurtainstohisbed，forthefirstandprobablythelasttimeinAmericathisisadisinterestedremark，forIneverusethem；andwherehewillbelikelytohaveenoughwaterforwashinghimself，whichisnotatallacommoncase。
　　ThiscapitalofthestateofMarylandisabustling，busytown，withagreatdealoftrafficofvariouskinds，andinparticularofwatercommerce。Thatportionofthetownwhichitmostfavoursisnoneofthecleanest，itistrue；buttheupperpartisofaverydifferentcharacter，andhasmanyagreeablestreetsandpublicbuildings。TheWashingtonMonument，whichisahandsomepillarwithastatueonitssummit；theMedicalCollege；andtheBattleMonumentinmemoryofanengagementwiththeBritishatNorthPoint；arethemostconspicuousamongthem。
　　Thereisaverygoodprisoninthiscity，andtheStatePenitentiaryisalsoamongitsinstitutions。Inthislatterestablishmentthereweretwocuriouscases。
　　Onewasthatofayoungman，whohadbeentriedforthemurderofhisfather。Theevidencewasentirelycircumstantial，andwasveryconflictinganddoubtful；norwasitpossibletoassignanymotivewhichcouldhavetemptedhimtothecommissionofsotremendousacrime。Hehadbeentriedtwice；andonthesecondoccasionthejuryfeltsomuchhesitationinconvictinghim，thattheyfoundaverdictofmanslaughter，ormurderintheseconddegree；whichitcouldnotpossiblybe，astherehad，beyondalldoubt，beennoquarrelorprovocation，andifhewereguiltyatall，hewasunquestionablyguiltyofmurderinitsbroadestandworstsignification。
　　Theremarkablefeatureinthecasewas，thatiftheunfortunatedeceasedwerenotreallymurderedbythisownsonofhis，hemusthavebeenmurderedbyhisownbrother。Theevidencelayinamostremarkablemanner，betweenthosetwo。Onallthesuspiciouspoints，thedeadman'sbrotherwasthewitness:alltheexplanationsfortheprisonersomeofthemextremelyplausible
　　went，byconstructionandinference，toinculcatehimasplottingtofixtheguiltuponhisnephew。Itmusthavebeenoneofthem:
　　andthejuryhadtodecidebetweentwosetsofsuspicions，almostequallyunnatural，unaccountable，andstrange。
　　Theothercase，wasthatofamanwhooncewenttoacertaindistiller'sandstoleacoppermeasurecontainingaquantityofliquor。Hewaspursuedandtakenwiththepropertyinhispossession，andwassentencedtotwoyears'imprisonment。Oncomingoutofthejail，attheexpirationofthatterm，hewentbacktothesamedistiller's，andstolethesamecoppermeasurecontainingthesamequantityofliquor。Therewasnottheslightestreasontosupposethatthemanwishedtoreturntoprison:indeedeverything，butthecommissionoftheoffence，madedirectlyagainstthatassumption。Thereareonlytwowaysofaccountingforthisextraordinaryproceeding。Oneis，thatafterundergoingsomuchforthiscoppermeasureheconceivedhehadestablishedasortofclaimandrighttoit。Theotherthat，bydintoflongthinkingabout，ithadbecomeamonomaniawithhim，andhadacquiredafascinationwhichhefounditimpossibletoresist；swellingfromanEarthlyCopperGallonintoanEtherealGoldenVat。
　　AfterremaininghereacoupleofdaysIboundmyselftoarigidadherencetotheplanIhadlaiddownsorecently，andresolvedtosetforwardonourwesternjourneywithoutanymoredelay。
　　Accordingly，havingreducedtheluggagewithinthesmallestpossiblecompassbysendingbacktoNewYork，tobeafterwardsforwardedtousinCanada，somuchofitaswasnotabsolutelywanted；andhavingprocuredthenecessarycredentialstobanking-
　　housesontheway；andhavingmoreoverlookedfortwoeveningsatthesettingsun，withaswell-definedanideaofthecountrybeforeusasifwehadbeengoingtotravelintotheverycentreofthatplanet；weleftBaltimorebyanotherrailwayathalf-pasteightinthemorning，andreachedthetownofYork，somesixtymilesoff，bytheearlydinner-timeoftheHotelwhichwasthestarting-placeofthefour-horsecoach，whereinweweretoproceedtoHarrisburg。
　　Thisconveyance，theboxofwhichIwasfortunateenoughtosecure，hadcomedowntomeetusattherailroadstation，andwasasmuddyandcumbersomeasusual。Asmorepassengerswerewaitingforusattheinn-door，thecoachmanobservedunderhisbreath，intheusualself-communicativevoice，lookingthewhileathismouldyharnessasifitweretothathewasaddressinghimself，'IexpectweshallwantTHEBIGcoach。'
　　Icouldnothelpwonderingwithinmyselfwhatthesizeofthisbigcoachmightbe，andhowmanypersonsitmightbedesignedtohold；
　　forthevehiclewhichwastoosmallforourpurposewassomethinglargerthantwoEnglishheavynightcoaches，andmighthavebeenthetwin-brotherofaFrenchDiligence。Myspeculationswerespeedilysetatrest，however，forassoonaswehaddined，therecamerumblingupthestreet，shakingitssideslikeacorpulentgiant，akindofbargeonwheels。Aftermuchblunderingandbacking，itstoppedatthedoor:rollingheavilyfromsidetosidewhenitsothermotionhadceased，asifithadtakencoldinitsdampstable，andbetweenthat，andthehavingbeenrequiredinitsdropsicaloldagetomoveatanyfasterpacethanawalk，weredistressedbyshortnessofwind。
　　'Ifhereain'ttheHarrisburgmailatlast，anddreadfulbrightandsmarttolookattoo，'criedanelderlygentlemaninsomeexcitement，'darnmymother!'
　　Idon'tknowwhatthesensationofbeingdarnedmaybe，orwhetheraman'smotherhasakeenerrelishordisrelishoftheprocessthananybodyelse；butiftheenduranceofthismysteriousceremonybytheoldladyinquestionhaddependedontheaccuracyofherson'svisioninrespecttotheabstractbrightnessandsmartnessoftheHarrisburgmail，shewouldcertainlyhaveundergoneitsinfliction。
　　However，theybookedtwelvepeopleinside；andtheluggageincludingsuchtriflesasalargerocking-chair，andagood-sizeddining-tablebeingatlengthmadefastupontheroof，westartedoffingreatstate。
　　Atthedoorofanotherhotel，therewasanotherpassengertobetakenup。
　　'Anyroom，sir？'criesthenewpassengertothecoachman。
　　'Well，there'sroomenough，'repliesthecoachman，withoutgettingdown，orevenlookingathim。
　　'Therean'tnoroomatall，sir，'bawlsagentlemaninside。Whichanothergentlemanalsoinsideconfirms，bypredictingthattheattempttointroduceanymorepassengers'won'tfitnohow。'
　　Thenewpassenger，withoutanyexpressionofanxiety，looksintothecoach，andthenlooksupatthecoachman:'Now，howdoyoumeantofixit？'sayshe，afterapause:'forIMUSTgo。'
　　Thecoachmanemployshimselfintwistingthelashofhiswhipintoaknot，andtakesnomorenoticeofthequestion:clearlysignifyingthatitisanybody'sbusinessbuthis，andthatthepassengerswoulddowelltofixit，amongthemselves。Inthisstateofthings，mattersseemtobeapproximatingtoafixofanotherkind，whenanotherinsidepassengerinacorner，whoisnearlysuffocated，criesfaintly，'I'llgetout。'
　　Thisisnomatterofrelieforself-congratulationtothedriver，forhisimmovablephilosophyisperfectlyundisturbedbyanythingthathappensinthecoach。Ofallthingsintheworld，thecoachwouldseemtobetheverylastuponhismind。Theexchangeismade，however，andthenthepassengerwhohasgivenuphisseatmakesathirduponthebox，seatinghimselfinwhathecallsthemiddle；thatis，withhalfhispersononmylegs，andtheotherhalfonthedriver's。
　　'Goa-head，cap'en，'criesthecolonel，whodirects。
　　'Go-lang!'criesthecap'entohiscompany，thehorses，andawaywego。
　　Wetookupataruralbar-room，afterwehadgoneafewmiles，anintoxicatedgentlemanwhoclimbedupontheroofamongtheluggage，andsubsequentlyslippingoffwithouthurtinghimself，wasseeninthedistantperspectivereelingbacktothegrog-shopwherewehadfoundhim。Wealsopartedwithmoreofourfreightatdifferenttimes，sothatwhenwecametochangehorses，Iwasagainaloneoutside。
　　Thecoachmenalwayschangewiththehorses，andareusuallyasdirtyasthecoach。ThefirstwasdressedlikeaveryshabbyEnglishbaker；thesecondlikeaRussianpeasant:forheworealoosepurplecamletrobe，withafurcollar，tiedroundhiswaistwithaparti-colouredworstedsash；greytrousers；lightbluegloves:andacapofbearskin。Ithadbythistimecomeontorainveryheavily，andtherewasacolddampmistbesides，whichpenetratedtotheskin。Iwasgladtotakeadvantageofastoppageandgetdowntostretchmylegs，shakethewateroffmygreat-coat，andswallowtheusualanti-temperancerecipeforkeepingoutthecold。
　　WhenImountedtomyseatagain，Iobservedanewparcellyingonthecoachroof，whichItooktobearatherlargefiddleinabrownbag。Inthecourseofafewmiles，however，Idiscoveredthatithadaglazedcapatoneendandapairofmuddyshoesattheotherandfurtherobservationdemonstratedittobeasmallboyinasnuff-colouredcoat，withhisarmsquitepinionedtohissides，bydeepforcingintohispockets。Hewas，Ipresume，arelativeorfriendofthecoachman's，ashelaya-topoftheluggagewithhisfacetowardstherain；andexceptwhenachangeofpositionbroughthisshoesincontactwithmyhat，heappearedtobeasleep。Atlast，onsomeoccasionofourstopping，thisthingslowlyupreareditselftotheheightofthreefeetsix，andfixingitseyesonme，observedinpipingaccents，withacomplaisantyawn，halfquenchedinanobligingairoffriendlypatronage，'Wellnow，stranger，I
　　guessyoufindthisa'mostlikeanEnglisharternoon，hey？'
　　Thescenery，whichhadbeentameenoughatfirst，was，forthelasttenortwelvemiles，beautiful。OurroadwoundthroughthepleasantvalleyoftheSusquehanna；theriver，dottedwithinnumerablegreenislands，layuponourright；andontheleft，asteepascent，craggywithbrokenrock，anddarkwithpinetrees。
　　Themist，wreathingitselfintoahundredfantasticshapes，movedsolemnlyuponthewater；andthegloomofeveninggavetoallanairofmysteryandsilencewhichgreatlyenhanceditsnaturalinterest。
　　Wecrossedthisriverbyawoodenbridge，roofedandcoveredinonallsides，andnearlyamileinlength。Itwasprofoundlydark；
　　perplexed，withgreatbeams，crossingandrecrossingitateverypossibleangle；andthroughthebroadchinksandcrevicesinthefloor，therapidrivergleamed，fardownbelow，likealegionofeyes。Wehadnolamps；andasthehorsesstumbledandflounderedthroughthisplace，towardsthedistantspeckofdyinglight，itseemedinterminable。Ireallycouldnotatfirstpersuademyselfaswerumbledheavilyon，fillingthebridgewithhollownoises，andIhelddownmyheadtosaveitfromtheraftersabove，butthatIwasinapainfuldream；forIhaveoftendreamedoftoilingthroughsuchplaces，andasoftenargued，evenatthetime，'thiscannotbereality。'
　　Atlength，however，weemergeduponthestreetsofHarrisburg，whosefeeblelights，reflecteddismallyfromthewetground，didnotshineoutuponaverycheerfulcity。Weweresoonestablishedinasnughotel，whichthoughsmallerandfarlesssplendidthanmanyweputupat，itraisedabovethemallinmyremembrance，byhavingforitslandlordthemostobliging，considerate，andgentlemanlypersonIeverhadtodealwith。
　　Aswewerenottoproceeduponourjourneyuntiltheafternoon，I
　　walkedout，afterbreakfastthenextmorning，tolookaboutme；andwasdulyshownamodelprisononthesolitarysystem，justerected，andasyetwithoutaninmate；thetrunkofanoldtreetowhichHarris，thefirstsettlerhereafterwardsburiedunderit，wastiedbyhostileIndians，withhisfuneralpileabouthim，whenhewassavedbythetimelyappearanceofafriendlypartyontheoppositeshoreoftheriver；thelocallegislaturefortherewasanotherofthosebodieshereagain，infulldebate；andtheothercuriositiesofthetown。
　　IwasverymuchinterestedinlookingoveranumberoftreatiesmadefromtimetotimewiththepoorIndians，signedbythedifferentchiefsattheperiodoftheirratification，andpreservedintheofficeoftheSecretarytotheCommonwealth。Thesesignatures，tracedofcoursebytheirownhands，areroughdrawingsofthecreaturesorweaponstheywerecalledafter。Thus，theGreatTurtlemakesacrookedpen-and-inkoutlineofagreatturtle；
　　theBuffalosketchesabuffalo；theWarHatchetsetsaroughimageofthatweaponforhismark。SowiththeArrow，theFish，theScalp，theBigCanoe，andallofthem。
　　Icouldnotbutthink-asIlookedatthesefeebleandtremulousproductionsofhandswhichcoulddrawthelongestarrowtotheheadinastoutelk-hornbow，orsplitabeadorfeatherwitharifle-
　　ball-ofCrabbe'smusingsovertheParishRegister，andtheirregularscratchesmadewithapen，bymenwhowouldploughalengthyfurrowstraightfromendtoend。NorcouldIhelpbestowingmanysorrowfulthoughtsuponthesimplewarriorswhosehandsandheartsweresetthere，inalltruthandhonesty；andwhoonlylearnedincourseoftimefromwhitemenhowtobreaktheirfaith，andquibbleoutofformsandbonds。Iwonder，too，howmanytimesthecredulousBigTurtle，ortrustingLittleHatchet，hadputhismarktotreatieswhichwerefalselyreadtohim；andhadsignedaway，heknewnotwhat，untilitwentandcasthimlooseuponthenewpossessorsoftheland，asavageindeed。
　　Ourhostannounced，beforeourearlydinner，thatsomemembersofthelegislativebodyproposedtodousthehonourofcalling。Hehadkindlyyieldeduptoushiswife'sownlittleparlour，andwhenIbeggedthathewouldshowthemin，Isawhimlookwithpainfulapprehensionatitsprettycarpet；though，beingotherwiseoccupiedatthetime，thecauseofhisuneasinessdidnotoccurtome。
　　Itcertainlywouldhavebeenmorepleasanttoallpartiesconcerned，andwouldnot，Ithink，havecompromisedtheirindependenceinanymaterialdegree，ifsomeofthesegentlemenhadnotonlyyieldedtotheprejudiceinfavourofspittoons，buthadabandonedthemselves，forthemoment，eventotheconventionalabsurdityofpocket-handkerchiefs。
　　Itstillcontinuedtorainheavily，andwhenwewentdowntotheCanalBoatforthatwasthemodeofconveyancebywhichweweretoproceedafterdinner，theweatherwasasunpromisingandobstinatelywetasonewoulddesiretosee。Norwasthesightofthiscanalboat，inwhichweweretospendthreeorfourdays，byanymeansacheerfulone；asitinvolvedsomeuneasyspeculationsconcerningthedisposalofthepassengersatnight，andopenedawidefieldofinquirytouchingtheotherdomesticarrangementsoftheestablishment，whichwassufficientlydisconcerting。
　　However，thereitwas-abargewithalittlehouseinit，viewedfromtheoutside；andacaravanatafair，viewedfromwithin:thegentlemenbeingaccommodated，asthespectatorsusuallyare，inoneofthoselocomotivemuseumsofpennywonders；andtheladiesbeingpartitionedoffbyaredcurtain，afterthemannerofthedwarfsandgiantsinthesameestablishments，whoseprivatelivesarepassedinrathercloseexclusiveness。
　　Wesathere，lookingsilentlyattherowoflittletables，whichextendeddownbothsidesofthecabin，andlisteningtotherainasitdrippedandpatteredontheboat，andplashedwithadismalmerrimentinthewater，untilthearrivaloftherailwaytrain，forwhosefinalcontributiontoourstockofpassengers，ourdeparturewasalonedeferred。Itbroughtagreatmanyboxes，whichwerebumpedandtossedupontheroof，almostaspainfullyasiftheyhadbeendepositedonone'sownhead，withouttheinterventionofaporter'sknot；andseveraldampgentlemen，whoseclothes，ontheirdrawingroundthestove，begantosteamagain。Nodoubtitwouldhavebeenathoughtmorecomfortableifthedrivingrain，whichnowpoureddownmoresoakinglythanever，hadadmittedofawindowbeingopened，orifournumberhadbeensomethinglessthanthirty；
　　buttherewasscarcelytimetothinkasmuch，whenatrainofthreehorseswasattachedtothetow-rope，theboyupontheleadersmackedhiswhip，theruddercreakedandgroanedcomplainingly，andwehadbegunourjourney。
　　CHAPTERX-SOMEFURTHERACCOUNTOFTHECANALBOAT，ITSDOMESTIC
　　ECONOMY，ANDITSPASSENGERS。JOURNEYTOPITTSBURGACROSSTHE
　　ALLEGHANYMOUNTAINS。PITTSBURG
　　ASitcontinuedtorainmostperseveringly，weallremainedbelow:
　　thedampgentlemenroundthestove，graduallybecomingmildewedbytheactionofthefire；andthedrygentlemenlyingatfulllengthupontheseats，orslumberinguneasilywiththeirfacesonthetables，orwalkingupanddownthecabin，whichitwasbarelypossibleforamanofthemiddleheighttodo，withoutmakingbaldplacesonhisheadbyscrapingitagainsttheroof。Ataboutsixo'clock，allthesmalltableswereputtogethertoformonelongtable，andeverybodysatdowntotea，coffee，bread，butter，salmon，shad，liver，steaks，potatoes，pickles，ham，chops，black-
　　puddings，andsausages。
　　'Willyoutry，'saidmyoppositeneighbour，handingmeadishofpotatoes，brokenupinmilkandbutter，'willyoutrysomeofthesefixings？'
　　Therearefewwordswhichperformsuchvariousdutiesasthisword'fix。'ItistheCalebQuotemoftheAmericanvocabulary。Youcalluponagentlemaninacountrytown，andhishelpinformsyouthatheis'fixinghimself'justnow，butwillbedowndirectly:
　　bywhichyouaretounderstandthatheisdressing。Youinquire，onboardasteamboat，ofafellow-passenger，whetherbreakfastwillbereadysoon，andhetellsyouheshouldthinkso，forwhenhewaslastbelow，theywere'fixingthetables:'inotherwords，layingthecloth。Youbegaportertocollectyourluggage，andheentreatsyounottobeuneasy，forhe'll'fixitpresently:'andifyoucomplainofindisposition，youareadvisedtohaverecoursetoDoctorSo-and-so，whowill'fixyou'innotime。
　　Onenight，IorderedabottleofmulledwineatanhotelwhereI
　　wasstaying，andwaitedalongtimeforit；atlengthitwasputuponthetablewithanapologyfromthelandlordthathefeareditwasn't'fixedproperly。'AndIrecollectonce，atastage-coachdinner，overhearingaverysterngentlemandemandofawaiterwhopresentedhimwithaplateofunderdoneroast-beef，'whetherhecalledTHAT，fixingGodA'mighty'svittles？'
　　Thereisnodoubtthatthemeal，atwhichtheinvitationwastenderedtomewhichhasoccasionedthisdigression，wasdisposedofsomewhatravenously；andthatthegentlementhrustthebroad-
　　bladedknivesandthetwo-prongedforksfurtherdowntheirthroatsthanIeversawthesameweaponsgobefore，exceptinthehandsofaskilfuljuggler:butnomansatdownuntiltheladieswereseated；oromittedanylittleactofpolitenesswhichcouldcontributetotheircomfort。NordidIeveronce，onanyoccasion，anywhere，duringmyramblesinAmerica，seeawomanexposedtotheslightestactofrudeness，incivility，oreveninattention。
　　Bythetimethemealwasover，therain，whichseemedtohavewornitselfoutbycomingdownsofast，wasnearlyovertoo；anditbecamefeasibletogoondeck:whichwasagreatrelief，notwithstandingitsbeingaverysmalldeck，andbeingrenderedstillsmallerbytheluggage，whichwasheapedtogetherinthemiddleunderatarpaulincovering；leaving，oneitherside，apathsonarrow，thatitbecameasciencetowalktoandfrowithouttumblingoverboardintothecanal。Itwassomewhatembarrassingatfirst，too，tohavetoducknimblyeveryfiveminuteswheneverthemanatthehelmcried'Bridge!'andsometimes，whenthecrywas'LowBridge，'toliedownnearlyflat。Butcustomfamiliarisesonetoanything，andthereweresomanybridgesthatittookaveryshorttimetogetusedtothis。
　　Asnightcameon，andwedrewinsightofthefirstrangeofhills，whicharetheoutpostsoftheAlleghanyMountains，thescenery，whichhadbeenuninterestinghitherto，becamemoreboldandstriking。Thewetgroundreekedandsmoked，aftertheheavyfallofrain，andthecroakingofthefrogswhosenoiseinthesepartsisalmostincrediblesoundedasthoughamillionoffairyteamswithbellsweretravellingthroughtheair，andkeepingpacewithus。Thenightwascloudyyet，butmoonlighttoo:andwhenwecrossedtheSusquehannariver-overwhichthereisanextraordinarywoodenbridgewithtwogalleries，oneabovetheother，sothateventhere，twoboatteamsmeeting，maypasswithoutconfusion-itwaswildandgrand。
　　Ihavementionedmyhavingbeeninsomeuncertaintyanddoubt，atfirst，relativetothesleepingarrangementsonboardthisboat。I
　　remainedinthesamevaguestateofminduntilteno'clockorthereabouts，whengoingbelow，Ifoundsuspendedoneithersideofthecabin，threelongtiersofhangingbookshelves，designedapparentlyforvolumesofthesmalloctavosize。Lookingwithgreaterattentionatthesecontrivanceswonderingtofindsuchliterarypreparationsinsuchaplace，Idescriedoneachshelfasortofmicroscopicsheetandblanket；thenIbegandimlytocomprehendthatthepassengerswerethelibrary，andthattheyweretobearranged，edge-wise，ontheseshelves，tillmorning。
　　Iwasassistedtothisconclusionbyseeingsomeofthemgatheredroundthemasteroftheboat，atoneofthetables，drawinglotswithalltheanxietiesandpassionsofgamestersdepictedintheircountenances；whileothers，withsmallpiecesofcardboardintheirhands，weregropingamongtheshelvesinsearchofnumberscorrespondingwiththosetheyhaddrawn。Assoonasanygentlemanfoundhisnumber，hetookpossessionofitbyimmediatelyundressinghimselfandcrawlingintobed。Therapiditywithwhichanagitatedgamblersubsidedintoasnoringslumberer，wasoneofthemostsingulareffectsIhaveeverwitnessed。Astotheladies，theywerealreadyabed，behindtheredcurtain，whichwascarefullydrawnandpinnedupthecentre；thoughaseverycough，orsneeze，orwhisper，behindthiscurtain，wasperfectlyaudiblebeforeit，wehadstillalivelyconsciousnessoftheirsociety。
　　Thepolitenessofthepersoninauthorityhadsecuredtomeashelfinanooknearthisredcurtain，insomedegreeremovedfromthegreatbodyofsleepers:towhichplaceIretired，withmanyacknowledgmentstohimforhisattention。Ifoundit，onafter-
　　measurement，justthewidthofanordinarysheetofBathpostletter-paper；andIwasatfirstinsomeuncertaintyastothebestmeansofgettingintoit。Buttheshelfbeingabottomone，I
　　finallydeterminedonlyinguponthefloor，rollinggentlyin，stoppingimmediatelyItouchedthemattress，andremainingforthenightwiththatsideuppermost，whateveritmightbe。Luckily，I
　　cameuponmybackatexactlytherightmoment。Iwasmuchalarmedonlookingupward，tosee，bytheshapeofhishalf-yardofsackingwhichhisweighthadbentintoanexceedinglytightbag，thattherewasaveryheavygentlemanaboveme，whomtheslendercordsseemedquiteincapableofholding；andIcouldnothelpreflectinguponthegriefofmywifeandfamilyintheeventofhiscomingdowninthenight。ButasIcouldnothavegotupagainwithoutaseverebodilystruggle，whichmighthavealarmedtheladies；andasIhadnowheretogoto，evenifIhad；Ishutmyeyesuponthedanger，andremainedthere。
　　Oneoftworemarkablecircumstancesisindisputablyafact，withreferencetothatclassofsocietywhotravelintheseboats。
　　Eithertheycarrytheirrestlessnesstosuchapitchthattheyneversleepatall；ortheyexpectorateindreams，whichwouldbearemarkableminglingoftherealandideal。Allnightlong，andeverynight，onthiscanal，therewasaperfectstormandtempestofspitting；andoncemycoat，beingintheverycentreofthehurricanesustainedbyfivegentlemenwhichmovedvertically，strictlycarryingoutReid'sTheoryoftheLawofStorms，Iwasfainthenextmorningtolayitonthedeck，andrubitdownwithfairwaterbeforeitwasinaconditiontobewornagain。
　　Betweenfiveandsixo'clockinthemorningwegotup，andsomeofuswentondeck，togivethemanopportunityoftakingtheshelvesdown；whileothers，themorningbeingverycold，crowdedroundtherustystove，cherishingthenewlykindledfire，andfillingthegratewiththosevoluntarycontributionsofwhichtheyhadbeensoliberalallnight。Thewashingaccommodationswereprimitive。
　　Therewasatinladlechainedtothedeck，withwhicheverygentlemanwhothoughtitnecessarytocleansehimselfmanyweresuperiortothisweakness，fishedthedirtywateroutofthecanal，andpoureditintoatinbasin，securedinlikemanner。
　　Therewasalsoajack-towel。And，hangingupbeforealittlelooking-glassinthebar，intheimmediatevicinityofthebreadandcheeseandbiscuits，wereapubliccombandhair-brush。
　　Ateighto'clock，theshelvesbeingtakendownandputawayandthetablesjoinedtogether，everybodysatdowntothetea，coffee，bread，butter，salmon，shad，liver，steak，potatoes，pickles，ham，chops，black-puddings，andsausages，alloveragain。Somewerefondofcompoundingthisvariety，andhavingitallontheirplatesatonce。Aseachgentlemangotthroughhisownpersonalamountoftea，coffee，bread，butter，salmon，shad，liver，steak，potatoes，pickles，ham，chops，black-puddings，andsausages，heroseupandwalkedoff。Wheneverybodyhaddonewitheverything，thefragmentswereclearedaway:andoneofthewaitersappearinganewinthecharacterofabarber，shavedsuchofthecompanyasdesiredtobeshaved；whiletheremainderlookedon，oryawnedovertheirnewspapers。Dinnerwasbreakfastagain，withouttheteaandcoffee；andsupperandbreakfastwereidentical。
　　Therewasamanonboardthisboat，withalightfresh-colouredface，andapepper-and-saltsuitofclothes，whowasthemostinquisitivefellowthatcanpossiblybeimagined。Heneverspokeotherwisethaninterrogatively。Hewasanembodiedinquiry。
　　Sittingdownorstandingup，stillormoving，walkingthedeckortakinghismeals，therehewas，withagreatnoteofinterrogationineacheye，twoinhiscockedears，twomoreinhisturned-upnoseandchin，atleasthalfadozenmoreaboutthecornersofhismouth，andthelargestoneofallinhishair，whichwasbrushedpertlyoffhisforeheadinaflaxenclump。Everybuttoninhisclothessaid，'Eh？What'sthat？Didyouspeak？Saythatagain，willyou？'Hewasalwayswideawake，liketheenchantedbridewhodroveherhusbandfrantic；alwaysrestless；alwaysthirstingforanswers；perpetuallyseekingandneverfinding。Thereneverwassuchacuriousman。
　　Iworeafurgreat-coatatthattime，andbeforewewerewellclearofthewharf，hequestionedmeconcerningit，anditsprice，andwhereIboughtit，andwhen，andwhatfuritwas，andwhatitweighed，andwhatitcost。Thenhetooknoticeofmywatch，andaskedmewhatTHATcost，andwhetheritwasaFrenchwatch，andwhereIgotit，andhowIgotit，andwhetherIboughtitorhaditgivenme，andhowitwent，andwherethekey-holewas，andwhenI
　　woundit，everynightoreverymorning，andwhetherIeverforgottowinditatall，andifIdid，whatthen？WherehadIbeentolast，andwherewasIgoingnext，andwherewasIgoingafterthat，andhadIseenthePresident，andwhatdidhesay，andwhatdidI
　　say，andwhatdidhesaywhenIhadsaidthat？Eh？Lornow!dotell!
　　Findingthatnothingwouldsatisfyhim，Ievadedhisquestionsafterthefirstscoreortwo，andinparticularpleadedignorancerespectingthenameofthefurwhereofthecoatwasmade。Iamunabletosaywhetherthiswasthereason，butthatcoatfascinatedhimafterwards；heusuallykeptclosebehindmeasIwalked，andmovedasImoved，thathemightlookatitthebetter；andhefrequentlydivedintonarrowplacesaftermeattheriskofhislife，thathemighthavethesatisfactionofpassinghishanduptheback，andrubbingitthewrongway。
　　Wehadanotheroddspecimenonboard，ofadifferentkind。Thiswasathin-faced，spare-figuredmanofmiddleageandstature，dressedinadustydrabbish-colouredsuit，suchasIneversawbefore。Hewasperfectlyquietduringthefirstpartofthejourney:indeedIdon'trememberhavingsomuchasseenhimuntilhewasbroughtoutbycircumstances，asgreatmenoftenare。Theconjunctionofeventswhichmadehimfamous，happened，briefly，thus。
　　Thecanalextendstothefootofthemountain，andthere，ofcourse，itstops；thepassengersbeingconveyedacrossitbylandcarriage，andtakenonafterwardsbyanothercanalboat，thecounterpartofthefirst，whichawaitsthemontheotherside。
　　Therearetwocanallinesofpassage-boats；oneiscalledTheExpress，andoneacheaperoneThePioneer。ThePioneergetsfirsttothemountain，andwaitsfortheExpresspeopletocomeup；
　　bothsetsofpassengersbeingconveyedacrossitatthesametime。
　　WeweretheExpresscompany；butwhenwehadcrossedthemountain，andhadcometothesecondboat，theproprietorstookitintotheirbeadstodraftallthePioneersintoitlikewise，sothatwewerefive-and-fortyatleast，andtheaccessionofpassengerswasnotatallofthatkindwhichimprovedtheprospectofsleepingatnight。
　　Ourpeoplegrumbledatthis，aspeopledoinsuchcases；butsufferedtheboattobetowedoffwiththewholefreightaboardnevertheless；andawaywewentdownthecanal。Athome，Ishouldhaveprotestedlustily，butbeingaforeignerhere，Iheldmypeace。Notsothispassenger。Hecleftapathamongthepeopleondeckwewerenearlyallondeck，andwithoutaddressinganybodywhomsoever，soliloquisedasfollows:
　　'ThismaysuitYOU，thismay，butitdon'tsuitME。ThismaybeallverywellwithDownEasters，andmenofBostonraising，butitwon'tsuitmyfigurenohow；andnotwowaysaboutTHAT；andsoI
　　tellyou。Now!I'mfromthebrownforestsofMississippi，Iam，andwhenthesunshinesonme，itdoesshine-alittle。Itdon'tglimmerwhereIlive，thesundon't。No。I'mabrownforester，I
　　am。Ian'taJohnnyCake。TherearenosmoothskinswhereIlive。
　　We'reroughmenthere。Rather。IfDownEastersandmenofBostonraisinglikethis，I'mgladofit，butI'mnoneofthatraisingnorofthatbreed。No。Thiscompanywantsalittlefixing，ITdoes。
　　I'mthewrongsortofmanfor'em，Iam。Theywon'tlikeme，THEY
　　won't。Thisispilingofitup，alittletoomountainous，thisis。'Attheendofeveryoneoftheseshortsentencesheturneduponhisheel，andwalkedtheotherway；checkinghimselfabruptlywhenhehadfinishedanothershortsentence，andturningbackagain。
　　Itisimpossibleformetosaywhatterrificmeaningwashiddeninthewordsofthisbrownforester，butIknowthattheotherpassengerslookedoninasortofadmiringhorror，andthatpresentlytheboatwasputbacktothewharf，andasmanyofthePioneersascouldbecoaxedorbulliedintogoingaway，weregotridof。
　　Whenwestartedagain，someoftheboldestspiritsonboard，madeboldtosaytotheobviousoccasionofthisimprovementinourprospects，'Muchobligedtoyou，sir；'whereuntothebrownforesterwavinghishand，andstillwalkingupanddownasbefore，replied，'Noyouan't。You'renoneo'myraising。Youmayactforyourselves，YOUmay。Ihavepintedouttheway。DownEastersandJohnnyCakescanfollowiftheyplease。Ian'taJohnnyCake，I
　　an't。IamfromthebrownforestsoftheMississippi，Iam'-andsoon，asbefore。Hewasunanimouslyvotedoneofthetablesforhisbedatnight-thereisagreatcontestforthetables-inconsiderationforhispublicservices:andhehadthewarmestcornerbythestovethroughouttherestofthejourney。ButI
　　nevercouldfindoutthathedidanythingexceptsitthere；nordidIhearhimspeakagainuntil，inthemidstofthebustleandturmoilofgettingtheluggageashoreinthedarkatPittsburg，I
　　stumbledoverhimashesatsmokingacigaronthecabinsteps，andheardhimmutteringtohimself，withashortlaughofdefiance，'I
　　an'taJohnnyCake，-Ian't。I'mfromthebrownforestsoftheMississippi，Iam，damme!'Iaminclinedtoarguefromthis，thathehadneverleftoffsayingso；butIcouldnotmakeanaffidavitofthatpartofthestory，ifrequiredtodosobymyQueenandCountry。
　　AswehavenotreachedPittsburgyet，however，intheorderofournarrative，Imaygoontoremarkthatbreakfastwasperhapstheleastdesirablemealoftheday，asinadditiontothemanysavouryodoursarisingfromtheeatablesalreadymentioned，therewerewhiffsofgin，whiskey，brandy，andrum，fromthelittlebarhardby，andadecidedseasoningofstaletobacco。Manyofthegentlemenpassengerswerefarfromparticularinrespectoftheirlinen，whichwasinsomecasesasyellowasthelittlerivuletsthathadtrickledfromthecornersoftheirmouthsinchewing，anddriedthere。Norwastheatmospherequitefreefromzephyrwhisperingsofthethirtybedswhichhadjustbeenclearedaway，andofwhichwewerefurtherandmorepressinglyremindedbytheoccasionalappearanceonthetable-clothofakindofGame，notmentionedintheBillofFare。
　　Andyetdespitetheseoddities-andeventheyhad，formeatleast，ahumouroftheirown-therewasmuchinthismodeoftravellingwhichIheartilyenjoyedatthetime，andlookbackuponwithgreatpleasure。Eventherunningup，bare-necked，atfiveo'clockinthemorning，fromthetaintedcabintothedirtydeck；
　　scoopinguptheicywater，plungingone'sheadintoit，anddrawingitout，allfreshandglowingwiththecold；wasagoodthing。Thefast，briskwalkuponthetowing-path，betweenthattimeandbreakfast，wheneveryveinandarteryseemedtotinglewithhealth；
　　theexquisitebeautyoftheopeningday，whenlightcamegleamingofffromeverything；thelazymotionoftheboat，whenonelayidlyonthedeck，lookingthrough，ratherthanat，thedeepbluesky；
　　theglidingonatnight，sonoiselessly，pastfrowninghills，sullenwithdarktrees，andsometimesangryinonered，burningspothighup，whereunseenmenlaycrouchingroundafire；theshiningoutofthebrightstarsundisturbedbynoiseofwheelsorsteam，oranyothersoundthanthelimpidripplingofthewaterastheboatwenton:allthesewerepuredelights。
　　Thentherewerenewsettlementsanddetachedlog-cabinsandframe-
　　houses，fullofinterestforstrangersfromanoldcountry:cabinswithsimpleovens，outside，madeofclay；andlodgingsforthepigsnearlyasgoodasmanyofthehumanquarters；brokenwindows，patchedwithworn-outhats，oldclothes，oldboards，fragmentsofblanketsandpaper；andhome-madedressersstandingintheopenairwithoutthedoor，whereonwasrangedthehouseholdstore，nothardtocount，ofearthenjarsandpots。Theeyewaspainedtoseethestumpsofgreattreesthicklystrewnineveryfieldofwheat，andseldomtolosetheeternalswampanddullmorass，withhundredsofrottentrunksandtwistedbranchessteepedinitsunwholesomewater。Itwasquitesadandoppressive，tocomeupongreattractswheresettlershadbeenburningdownthetrees，andwheretheirwoundedbodieslayabout，likethoseofmurderedcreatures，whilehereandtheresomecharredandblackenedgiantrearedalofttwowitheredarms，andseemedtocalldowncursesonhisfoes。
　　Sometimes，atnight，thewaywoundthroughsomelonelygorge，likeamountainpassinScotland，shiningandcoldlyglitteringinthelightofthemoon，andsoclosedinbyhighsteephillsallround，thatthereseemedtobenoegresssavethroughthenarrowerpathbywhichwehadcome，untiloneruggedhill-sideseemedtoopen，andshuttingoutthemoonlightaswepassedintoitsgloomythroat，wrappedournewcourseinshadeanddarkness。
　　WehadleftHarrisburgonFriday。OnSundaymorningwearrivedatthefootofthemountain，whichiscrossedbyrailroad。Thereareteninclinedplanes；fiveascending，andfivedescending；thecarriagesaredraggeduptheformer，andletslowlydownthelatter，bymeansofstationaryengines；thecomparativelylevelspacesbetween，beingtraversed，sometimesbyhorse，andsometimesbyenginepower，asthecasedemands。Occasionallytherailsarelaidupontheextremevergeofagiddyprecipice；andlookingfromthecarriagewindow，thetravellergazessheerdown，withoutastoneorscrapoffencebetween，intothemountaindepthsbelow。
　　Thejourneyisverycarefullymade，however；onlytwocarriagestravellingtogether；andwhileproperprecautionsaretaken，isnottobedreadedforitsdangers。
　　Itwasveryprettytravellingthus，atarapidpacealongtheheightsofthemountaininakeenwind，tolookdownintoavalleyfulloflightandsoftness；catchingglimpses，throughthetree-