OnoneoccasionIwaswitnesstoasadfauxpasathisdinner—table。ItwasintheearlydaysoftheCrimeanWar，andanAmericangentlemanwhowaspresentwassocarelessastorefertoQueenVictoria’sproclamationagainstallwhoaidedtheenemy，whichwasclearlyleveledatMr。Bairdandhisiron—works。Therewasasceneatonce。Theladiesalmostwentintohystericsindeprecationofthepositioninwhichtheproclamationhadplacedthem。ButMr。Bairdhimselfwasquiteequaltotheoccasion:inaveryup—and—downwayhesaidthatheofcourseregrettedbeingregardedasatraitortohiscountry，butthatinthetimeoftheallianceagainstthefirstNapoleonhisfatherhadbeeninducedbytheRussiangovernmenttoestablishworks，andthisnotmerelywiththeconsent，butwiththewarmapproval，oftheBritishgovernment;inconsequencetheestablishmenthadtakencontractswiththeRussiangovernmentandnowtheymustbeexecuted;sofarashewasconcernedhisconsciencewasentirelyclear;hisdutywasplain，andhewasgoingtodoit。
Onanotheroccasionathistabletherewasaverygoodrepartee。Thesubjectofspiritualismhavingbeenbroughtup，someonetoldastoryofapersonwho，havinggoneintoanunfrequentedgarretofanoldfamilyresidence，foundthatalltheoldclothingwhichhadbeenstoredthereduringmanygenerationshaddescendedfromtheshelvesandhooksandhadassumedkneelingposturesaboutthefloor。Allofusheardthestorywithmuchsolemnity，whengoodoldDr。Law，chaplainoftheBritishchurch，brokethesilencewiththewords，``ThatmusthavebeenafamilyofveryPIOUSHABITS。’’Thisofcoursebrokethespell。
IshouldbesorrytohaveitthoughtthatallmystayintheRussiancapitalwasgivenuptoofficialroutineandsocialfutilities。Fortunatelyforme，thesocialdemandswerenotveryheavy。ThewarintheCrimea，steadilygoingagainstRussia，threwacloudoverthecourtandcityandreducedthenumberofentertainmentstoaminimum。Thissecuredme，duringthelongwinterevenings，muchtimeforreading，andinadditiontoallthevaluabletreatisesIcouldfindonRussia，Iwentwithcarethroughanextensivecourseinmodernhistory。
AstoRussianmatters，itwasmygoodfortunetobecomeintimatelyacquaintedwithAtkinson，theBritishtravelerinSiberia。Hehadbroughtbackmanyportfoliosofsketches，andhischarmingwifehadtreasuredupagreatfundofanecdotesofpeopleandadventure，sothatIseemedforatimetoknowSiberiaasifIhadlivedthere。
ThenitwasthatIlearnedofthebeautiesandcapabilitiesofitssouthernprovinces。TheAtkinsonshadalsobroughtbacktheironlychild，asonbornontheSiberiansteppe，awonderfullybrightyoungster，whomtheydestinedfortheBritishnavy。HeboreanamewhichIfearmayattimeshaveprovedaburdentohim，forhisfatherandmotherweresodelightedwiththeplaceinwhichhewasbornthattheycalledhim，afterit，``Alatow—TamChiboulak。’’[10]
[10]Sincewritingtheabove，Ihavehadthepleasureofreceivingaletterfromthisgentleman，whohasforsometimeheldtheresponsibleandinterestingpositionofsuperintendentofpublicinstructionintheHawaiianIslands，hisson，agraduateoftheUniversityofMichigan，havingbeenSecretaryoftheTerritory。
ThegeneralRussianlife，asIthussawit，whileintenselyinterestinginmanyrespects，wascertainlynotcheerful。
Despitethefrivolitydominantamongtheupperclassandthefetishismcontrollingthelowerclasses，therewas，especiallyinthatperiodofcalamity，adeepundertoneofmelancholy。Melancholy，indeed，isamarkedcharacteristicofRussia，and，aboveall，ofthepeasantry。Theyseemsadevenintheirsports;theirsongs，almostwithoutexception，areintheminorkey;thewholeatmosphereisapparentlychargedwithvaguedreadofsomecalamity。
Despitethesuppressionofmostoftheforeignjournals，andtheblottingoutofpageafterpageofthenewspapersallowedtoentertheempire，despiteallthatthesecretpolicecoulddoinrepressingunfavorablecomment，itbecamegenerallyknownthatallwasgoingwrongintheCrimea。Newscameofreverseafterreverse:ofthedefeatsoftheAlmaandInkerman，and，asaclimax，thelossofSebastopolandthedestructionoftheRussianfleet。Inthemidstofitall，asiseverthecaseinRussianwars，cameuttercollapseinthecommissariatdepartment;
everywhereoneheardhintsandfinallydetailedstoriesofscoundrelisminhighplaces:ofmoneywhichoughttohavebeenappropriatedtoarmysupplies，butwhichhadbeenexpendedatthegambling—tablesofHomburgorintheBredaquarteratParis。
ThenitwasthattherewasborneinuponmetheconvictionthatRussia，powerfulassheseemswhenviewedfromtheoutside，isanythingbutstrongwhenviewedfromtheinside。Tosaynothingofthethousandevidentweaknessesresultingfromautocracy，——thetheorythatoneman，andhe，generally，notoneofthemosthighlyendowed，candothethinkingforahundredmillionsofpeople，——therewasnowheretheslightestsignofanyuprisingofagreatnation，as，forinstance，oftheFrenchagainstEuropein1792，oftheGermansagainstFrancein1813andin1870，ofItalyagainstAustriain1859andafterward，andoftheAmericansintheCivilWarof1861。TherewerecertainlymanynoblecharactersinRussia，andthesemusthavefeltdeeplytheconditionofthings;buttherebeingnogreatmiddleclass，andthelowerclasshavingbeenlongkeptinbesottedignorance，thereseemedtobenoforceonwhichpatriotismcouldtakehold。
CHAPTERXXVII
ASATTACHANDBEAREROFDESPATCHES
INWAR—TIME——1855
Thespringof1855wasmadeinterestingbythearrivaloftheblockadingfleetbeforethemouthoftheNeva，andshortlyafterwardIwentdowntolookatit。
Itwasamostimposingsight:longlinesofmightythree—
deckersoftheoldpattern，BritishandFrench，——onehundredinall，——stretchedacrosstheGulfofFinlandinfrontofthefortressesofCronstadt。BehindthefortresseslaytheRussianfleet，helplessandabject;andyet，aseventsshowedduringourownCivilWarhalfadozenyearslater，averyslightdegreeofinventiveabilitywouldhaveenabledtheRussianstoannihilatethehostilefleet，andtogainthemostprodigiousnavalvictoryofmoderntimes。
HadtheysimplytakenoneortwooftheirowngreatshipstotheBairdiron—workshardby，andplatedthemwithrailwayiron，ofwhichtherewasplenty，theycouldhaveparalleledthedestructionofouroldwoodenfrigatesatNorfolkbytheMerrimac，butonavastlygreaterscale。Yetthissimpleexpedientoccurredtonoone;andthealliedfleet，underSirRichardDundas，badedefiancetotheRussianpowerduringthewholesummer。
TheRussianslookedmorephilosophicallyupontheblockadethanupontheirreversesintheCrimea，buttheyactedmuchlikethesmallboywhotakesrevengeonthebigboybymakingfacesathim。Someoftheircaricaturesontheirenemieswereveryclever。Fortunatelyforsuchartisticefforts，theBritishhadgiventhemafineopportunityduringthepreviousyear，whenSirCharlesNapier，thecommanderoftheBalticfleet，havingmadeaboastfulspeechatapublicdinnerinLondon，andinvitedhishearerstodinewithhimatSt。Petersburg，hadreturnedtoEngland，afterasummerbeforeCronstadt，withoutevenaglimpseoftheRussiancapital。
Iamthepossessorofaverylargecollectionofhistoricalcaricaturesofallnations，andamongthemallthereishardlyonemorespiritedandcomicalthanthatwhichrepresentsSirCharlesatthemastheadofoneofhisfrigates，seeking，throughaspy—glass，togetasightatthedomesandspiresofSt。Petersburg:noteventhebesteffortsofGillrayor``H。B。，’’orGavarniorDaumier，orthebrightestthingsin``Punch’’or``Kladderadatsch’’
surpassit。
SomeotherRussianeffortsatkeepinguppublicspiritwerelesslegitimate。Popularpicturesofarudesortwerecirculatedinvastnumbersamongthepeasants，representingBritishandFrenchsoldiersdesecratingchurches，plunderingmonasteries，andmurderingpriests。
NearthecloseofmystayImadeavisit，incompanywithMr。Erving，firstsecretaryofthelegation，toMoscow，——thejourney，whichnowrequiresbuttwelvehours，thenconsumingtwenty—four;andatryingjourneyitwas，sincetherewasnoprovisionforsleeping。
TheoldRussiancapital，and，aboveall，theKremlin，interestedmegreatly;but，ofallthevastcollectionsintheKremlin，twothingsespeciallyarrestedmyattention。
Thefirstwasastatue，——theonlystatueinallthosevasthalls，——andthereseemedawondrouspoeticjusticeinthefactthatitrepresentedthefirstNapoleon。TheotherthingwasanevidenceofthefeelingoftheEmperorNicholastowardPoland。Inoneofthelargeroomswasafull—lengthportraitofNicholas’selderbrotherandimmediatepredecessor，AlexanderI;flungonthefloorathisfeetwastheconstitutionofPoland，whichhehadgiven，andwhichNicholas，afterfearfulbloodshed，hadtakenaway;andlyingnearwasthePolishscepterbrokeninthemiddle。
AvisittotheSparrowHills，fromwhichNapoleonfirstsawMoscowandtheKremlin，wasalsointeresting;
butthecityitself，thoughpicturesque，disappointedme。
Everywherewerefilth，squalor，beggary，andfetishism。
Evidencesofofficialstupidityweremany。InoneoftheKremlintowersacatastrophehadoccurredontheoccasionoftheEmperor’sfuneral，adayortwobeforeourarrival:somethirtymenhadbeenringingoneoftheenormousbells，whenitbrokeloosefromitsrottenfasteningsandcrasheddownintothemidstoftheringers，killingseveral。Sadremindersofthisslaughterwereshownus;itwasclearlytheresultofgrossneglect。
AnotherrevelationofRussianofficialismwastherevouchsafedus。WishingtosendaverysimplemessagetoourministeratSt。Petersburg，wewenttothetelegraphofficeandhandedittotheclerkincharge。
Puttingonanairofgreatimportance，hebeganalonginquisitorialprocess，insistingonknowingourfullnames，whencewehadcome，whereweweregoing，howlongwewerestaying，whyweweresendingthemessage，etc。，etc。;
andwhenhehadevidentlyaskedallthequestionshecouldthinkof，hegravelyinformedusthatourmessagecouldnotbesentuntiltheheadoftheofficehadgivenhisapproval。Onouraskingwheretheheadoftheofficewas，hepointedoutastoutgentlemaninmilitaryuniformseatednearthestoveinthefurthercorneroftheroom，readinganewspaper;and，onourrequestinghimtonotifythissuperiorbeing，heansweredthathecouldnotthusinterrupthim;thatwecouldseethathewasbusy。AtthisErvinglosthistemper，caughtupthepaper，toreitinpieces，threwthemintothefaceoftheunderlingwithaloudexclamationmorevigorousthanpious，andwemarchedoutdefiantly。Lookingbackwhendrivingoffinourdroshky，wesawthathehadarousedtheentireestablishment:atthedoorstoodthewholepersonneloftheoffice，——themilitarycommanderatthehead，——allgazingatusinasortofstupefaction。Weexpectedtohearfromthemafterward，butonreflectiontheyevidentlythoughtitbestnottostirthematter。
InreviewingthisfirstofmysojournsinRussia，mythoughtsnaturallydwelluponthetwosovereignsNicholasIandAlexanderII。ThefirstofthesewasagreatmanscaredoutofgreatnessbytheeverrecurringspecteroftheFrenchRevolution。Therehadbeenmuchtomakehimasternreactionary。HecouldnotbutrememberthattwoCzars——hisfatherandgrandfather——hadbothbeenmurderedinobediencetofamilynecessities。Athisproclamationasemperorhehadbeenwelcomedbyarevoltwhichhadforcedhim``Towadethroughslaughtertoathrone——’’
arevoltwhichhaddelugedthegreatparade—groundofSt。Petersburgwiththebloodofhisbestsoldiers，whichhadsentmanycofflesofthenobilitytoSiberia，andwhichhadobligedhimtoseethebodiesofseveralmenwhomighthavemadehisreignillustriousdanglingfromthefortresswallsoppositetheWinterPalace。HehadbeenobligedtograpplewithafearfulinsurrectioninPoland，causedpartlybythebrutalityofhissatraps，butmainlybyreligioushatreds;tosuppressitwithenormouscarnage;
andtosubstitute，forthemoderateconstitutionallibertywhichhisbrotherhadgranted，acrueldespotism。
HehadthusbecomethefanaticalapostleofreactionthroughoutEurope，andassuchwaseverywheretheimplacableenemyofanyevolutionofconstitutionalliberty。
ThedespotsofEuropeadoredhim。Assymbolsofhisideals，hehadgiventotheKingofPrussiaandtotheNeapolitanBourboncopiesoftwoofthestatueswhichadornedhisNevskybridge——statuesrepresentingrestivehorsesrestrainedbystrongmen;andtheBerlinpopulace，withanunerringinstinct，hadgiventooneofthesethename``Progresschecked，’’andtotheotherthename``Retrogressionencouraged。’’Tothisdayoneseesevery—
whereinthepalacesofContinentalrulers，whethergreatorpetty，hiscolumnsofSiberianporphyry，jasperbowls，ormalachitevases——signsofhisapprovalofreaction。
But，injusticetohim，itshouldbesaidthattherewasonecrimehedidnotcommit——acrime，indeed，whichhedidnotDAREcommit:hedidnotviolatehisoathtomaintainthelibertiesofFinland。THATwasreservedforthesecondNicholas，nowontheRussianthrone。
WhetheratthegreatassemblagesoftheWinterPalace，oratthereviews，orsimplydrivinginhissledgeorwalkinginthestreet，heoverawedallmenbyhispresence。WheneverIsawhim，andnevermorecogentlythanduringthatlastdriveofhisjustbeforehisdeath，therewasforcedtomylipsthethought:``Youarethemostmajesticbeingevercreated。’’Colossalinstature;withafacesuchasonefindsonaGreekcoin，butovercastwithashadowofMuscovitemelancholy;withabearingdignified，butwithamannernotunkind，heborehimselflikeagod。Andyetnomancouldbemoresimpleoraffable，whetherinhispalaceorinthestreet。ThosewerethedayswhenaRussianCzarcoulddriveorwalkaloneineverypartofeverycityinhisempire。HefrequentlytookexerciseinwalkingalongtheNevaquay，andenjoyedtalkingwithanyfriendshemet——especiallywithmembersofthediplomaticcorps。ThepublishedlettersofanAmericanminister——Mr。Dallas——giveaccountsofmanydiscussionsthusheldwithhim。
Thereseemedamostcharacteristicminglingofhisbetterandworsequalitiesinthetwopromiseswhich，accordingtotradition，heexactedonhisdeath—bedfromhisson——namely，thathewouldfreetheserfs，andthathewouldnevergiveaconstitutiontoPoland。
Theaccessionofthisson，AlexanderII，broughtachangeatonce:weallfeltit。WhilehehadthebigRomanoffframeandbeautyanddignity，hehadlessofthemajestyandnoneoftheimplacablesternnessofhisfather。
Atthereceptionofthediplomaticcorpsonhisaccessionheshowedthisabundantly;for，despitethestrongdeclarationsinhisspeech，histearsbetrayedhim。Reformsbeganatonce——halting，indeed，butalltendingintherightdirection。Howtheyweredeveloped，andhowsolargelybroughttonaught，theworldknowsbyheart。Ofalltheghastlymiscalculationsevermade，ofallthecrimeswhichhavecosttheearthmostdear，hismurderwastheworst。
ThemurdersofWilliamofOrange，ofLincoln，ofGarfield，ofCarnot，ofHumbertI，didnotstopthecourseofabeneficentevolution;butthemurderofAlexanderII
threwRussiabackintothehandsofareactionworsethananyeverbeforeknown，whichhasnowlastednearlyageneration，andwhichbidsfairtocontinueformanymore，unlesstheRussianreversesinthepresentwarforceonabetterorderofthings。Forme，lookingbackuponthosedays，itishardtoimagineeventhecraziestofnihilistsoranarchistswildenoughtocommitsuchacrimeagainstsoattractiveamanfullyembarkedonsoblessedacareer。He，too，inthedaysofmystay，waswonttominglefreelywithhispeople;heevenwenttotheirplacesofpublicamusement，andhewasfrequentlytobeseenwalkingamongthemonthequaysandelsewhere。InmyreminiscencesoftheHagueConference，IgivefromthelipsofPrinceMunsteranaccountofaconversationundersuchcircumstances:theCzarwalkingonthequayorrestingonaseatbytheroadside，whileplanningtorightawrongdonebyapettyRussianofficialtoaGermanstudent。Thereinappearsnotonlyadeepsenseofjusticeandhumanity，butthatmelancholy，sotrulyRussian，whichwasdeepestinhimandinhisuncle，thefirstAlexander。Theredwellalsoinmymemorycertainphotographsofhiminhislastdays，shownmenotlongbeforehisdeath，duringmyfirstofficialstayatBerlin。Hisfacewasbeautifulasofold，butthemelancholyhaddeepened，andtheeyesmadeafearfulrevelation;
fortheyweretheeyesofamanwhoforyearshadknownhimselftobehunted。AsIlookedatthemtherecamebacktometheremembranceofthegreat，beautifulfrightenedeyesofadeer，hunteddownandfinallyatmymercy，inthemidstofalakeintheAdirondacks——eyeswhichhauntedmelongafterward。AndtherecomesbackthesceneatthefuneralceremonyinhishonoratBerlin，coincidentwiththatatSt。Petersburg——hisuncle，theEmperorWilliamI，andallabouthim，intears，andadepthofrealfeelingshownsuchasnomonarchofacoarserfibercouldhaveinspired。Whenonereflectsthathehadgivenhiscountrymen，amongagreatmassofminorreforms，trialbyjury;theemancipationoftwentymillionsofserfs，withprovisionforhomesteads;andhadatthatmoment——ashisadviser，LorisMelikoff，confessedwhendying——aconstitutionreadyforhispeople，onefeelsinclinedtocursethosewhotakethemethodsofrevolutionratherthanthoseofevolution。
MydeparturefromRussiaembracesoneortwoincidentswhichmaythrowsomelightupontheRussiancivilizationofthatperiod。Onaccountoftheblockade，I
wasobligedtotakethepostfromSt。PetersburgtoWarsaw，givingtothejourneysevendaysandsevennightsofsteadytravel;and，asthepressureforplacesonthepostwasverygreat，Iwasobligedtosecuremineseveralweeksbeforehand，andthenthoughtmyselfespeciallyluckyinobtainingasortofsentry—boxontheroofofthesecondcoachusuallyoccupiedbytheguard。Thisgoodluckwasduetothefactthat，therebeingonthatdaytwocoaches，oneguardservedforboth;andtheplaceonthesecondwasthusleftvacantforme。
Dayandnight，then，duringthatwholeweek，werumbledonthroughtheinterminableforestsofPoland，andthedistressinglydirtyhamletsandtownsscatteredalongtheroad。Myfirstnightoutwastrying，foritwasverycold;but，havingsecuredfromadealerinthefirsttownwherewestoppedinthemorningalargesheetoffelt，Iwrappedmylegsinit，andthenceforwardwascomfortable。Mycompanionsinthetwopost—coacheswereverylively，beingmainlyFrenchactorsandactresseswhohadjustfinishedtheirwintercampaigninRussia;
and，whenwechangedhorsesatthepost—houses，thesceneswereofasortwhichanAmericanoratoroncecharacterizedas``halcyonandvociferous。’’
Bearingadespatch—bagtoourlegationatParis，I
carriedthepass，notonlyofanattach，butofabearerofdespatches，andonmydepartureourministersaidtome:
``TheRussianofficialsatthefrontierhavegivenmuchtroubletoAmericansoflate;andIhopethatiftheytroubleyou，youwillsimplystopandinformme。Youaretravelingforpleasureandinformation，andafewdaysmoreorlesswillmakelittledifference。’’Onarrivingatthefrontier，Igaveupmypaperstothepassportofficials，andwasthenapproachedbytheofficersofthecustom—
house。Oneofthese，atallpersonageinshowyuniform，wasverysolemn，andpresentlyasked:``Areyoucarryingoutanyspecie？’’Ianswered:``Nonetospeakof;onlyabouttwentyorthirtyGermandollars。’’Saidhe:
``Thatyoumustgiveuptome;thelawoftheempiredoesnotpermityoutotakeoutcoin。’’``No，’’Isaid;``youaremistaken。Ihavealreadyhadthemoneychanged，anditisinGermancoin，notRussian。’’``Thatmakesnodifference，’’saidhe;``youmustgiveituporstayhere。’’
MyanswerwasthatIwouldnotgiveitup，andonthishecommandedhissubordinatestotakemybaggageoffthecoach。Mytravelingcompanionsnowbesoughtmetomakeaquietcompromisewithhim，togivehimhalfthemoney，tellingmethatImightbedetainedthereforweeksormonths，orevenbemaltreated;butIsteadilyrefused，andmybaggagewasremoved。Allwerereadytostartwhentheheadofthepolicebureaucameuponthescenetoreturnourpapers。Hisfirstproceedingwastocalloutmynameinamostobsequioustone，and，bowingreverently，totendermemypassport。Iglancedatthecustom—houseofficial，andsawthatheturnedpale。Thehonordonemylittlebriefauthoritybythepassportofficialrevealedtohimhismistake，andheimmediatelyorderedhissubordinatestoreplacemybaggageonthecoach;butthisIinstantlyforbade。Hethencameuptomeandinsistedthatamisunderstandinghadoccurred。``No，’’I
said;``thereisnomisunderstanding;youhaveonlytreatedmeasyouhavetreatedotherAmericans。TheAmericanministerhasorderedmetowaithereandinformhim，andallthatIhavenowtoaskyouisthatyougivemethenameofahotel。’’Atthisbebeggedmetolistentohim，andpresentlywaspleadingmostpiteously;indeed，hewouldhavereadilykneltandkissedmyfeettosecuremyforgiveness。Hebecameutterlyabject。Allwerewaiting，thecoachstoodopen，theeyesofthewholepartywerefasteneduponus。Mycomradesbesoughtmetolettherascalgo;andatlast，afteramostearnestwarningtohim，Igavemygraciouspermissiontohavethebaggageplacedonthecoach。HewascertainlyatthatmomentoneofthehappiestmenIhaveeverseen;and，aswedroveofffromthestation，helingeredlong，hatinhand，profusewithbowsandgoodwishes。
Oneotheroccurrenceduringthosesevendaysandnightsofcoachingmaythrowsomelightuponthefeelingwhichhasrecentlyproduced，inthatsameregion，theKishineffmassacres。
OnepleasantSaturdayevening，ataPolishvillage，ourcoachpassedintothelittlegreeninclosureinfrontofthepost—house，andtherestoppedforachangeofhorses。
Whilewaiting，Inoticed，frommysentry—boxonthetopofthecoach，severalwell—dressedpeople——bythecutoftheirbeardsandhair，Jews——standingatsomedistanceoutsidetheinclosure，andlookingatus。Presentlytwoofthem——clearly，bytheirbearinganddress，menofmark——enteredtheinclosure，camenearthecoach，andstoodquietlyandrespectfully。Inafewmomentsmyattentionwasattractedbyamovementontheothersideofthecoach:ourcoachman，ayoungserf，wasskulkingrapidlytowardthestables，andpresentlyemergedwithhislonghorsewhip，skulkedswiftlybackagainuntilhecamesuddenlyonthesetwograveandreverendmen，——eachofthemdoubtlesswealthyenoughtohaveboughtadozenlikehim，——beganlashingthem，andfinallydrovethemoutoftheinclosurelikedogs，theassembledcrowdjeeringandhootingafterthem。
FeweveningslingermorepleasantlyinmymemorythanthatonwhichIarrivedinBreslau。IwasoncemoreoutsideoftheRussianEmpire;and，asIsettledfortheeveningbeforeakindlyfireuponacheerfulhearth，thereroseundermywindows，fromarollickingbandofuniversitystudents，the``Gaudeamusigitur。’’Iseemedtohavearrivedinanotherworld——aworldwhichheldhomeandfriends。Then，asneverbefore，IrealizedthefeelingwhichtheMarquisdeCustinehadrevealed，totheamusementofEuropeandthedisgustoftheEmperorNicholas，nearlytwentyyearsbefore。Thebrilliantmarquis，onhiswaytoSt。Petersburg，hadstoppedatStettin;and，onhisleavingtheinntotakeshipforCronstadtnextday，theinnkeepersaidtohim:``Well，youaregoingintoaverybadcountry。’’``Howso？’’saidDeCustine;``whendidyoutravelthere？’’``Never，’’answeredtheinn—
keeper;``butIhavekeptthisinnformanyyears。AlltheleadingRussians，goingandcomingbysea，havestoppedwithme;andIhavealwaysnoticedthatthosecomingfromRussiaareveryglad，andthosereturningverysad。’’
ThroughouttheremainderofmyjourneyacrosstheContinent，considerableattentionwasshownmeatvariousstopping—places，sincetravelersfromwithintheRussianlinesatthattimewererareindeed;buttherewasnothingworthyofnoteuntilmyarrivalatStrasburg。
There，intherailwaystation，IwaspresentedbyayoungAustriannoblemantoanAmericanladywhowasgoingontoParisaccompaniedbyherson;and，asshewasveryagreeable，Iwasgladwhenweallfoundourselvestogetherinthesamerailwaycompartment。
SometimeafterleavingStrasburgshesaidtome:``I
don’tthinkyoucaughtmynameatthestation。’’TothisIfranklyrepliedthatIhadnot。Shethenrepeatedit;
andIfoundhertobeadistinguishedleaderinNewYorkandParisiansociety，thewifeofanAmericanwidelyknown。AswerolledontowardParis，Ibecamevaguelyawarethattherewassometroubleinourcompartment;
but，beingoccupiedwithabook，Ipaidlittleattentiontothematter。Thereweresevenofus。FacingeachotheratonedoorweretheAmericanlady，whomIwillcall``Mrs。
X。，’’andmyself;atherleftwashermaid，thenavacantseat，andthenattheotherdooraGermanlady，richlyattired，evidentlyofhighdegree，andprobablyaboutfiftyyearsofage。FacingthisGermanladysatanelegantlydressedyoungmanofaboutthirty，alsoofaristocraticmanners，andaGerman。BetweenthisgentlemanandmyselfsatthesonofMrs。X。andtheAustriangentlemanwhohadpresentedmetoher。
PresentlyMrs。X。bentovertowardmeandasked，inanundertone，``Whatdoyouthinkistherelationshipbetweenthosetwopeopleattheotherdoor？’’Iansweredthatquitelikelytheywerebrotherandsister。``No，’’saidshe;``theyaremanandwife。’’Ianswered，``Thatcanhardlybe;thereisadifferenceofatleasttwentyyearsintheyoungman’sfavor。’’``Dependuponit，’’shesaid，``theyaremanandwife;itisamariagedeconvenance;
sheisdressedtolookasyoungaspossible。’’AtthisIexpressednewdoubts，andthediscussiondropped。
PresentlytheyoungGermangentlemansaidsomethingtotheladyoppositehimwhichindicatedthathehadlivedinBerlin;whereuponMrs。X。askedhim，diagonallyacrossthecar，ifhehadbeenattheBerlinUniversity。Atthisheturnedinsomesurpriseandanswered，civillybutcoldly，``Yes，madam。’’Thenheturnedawaytoconversewiththeladywhoaccompaniedhim。Mrs。X。，nothingdaunted，persisted，andasked，``HaveyoubeenRECENTLYattheuniversity？’’BeforehecouldreplytheladyoppositehimturnedtoMrs。X。andsaidmosthaughtily，``MonDieu，madam，youmustseethatthegentlemandoesnotdesireanyconversationwithyou。``AtthisMrs。X。becameveryhumble，andrejoinedmostpenitently，``Madam，Ibegyourpardon;ifIhadknownthatthegentleman’smotherdidnotwishhimtotalkwithastranger，Iwouldnothavespokentohim。’’AtthistheGermanladystartedasifstung，turnedveryred，andreplied，``Pardon，madam，Iamnotthemotherofthegentleman。’’AtthisthehumblemannerofMrs。X。wasflungoffinaninstant，andturningfiercelyupontheGermanlady，shesaid，``Madam，sinceyouarenotthemotherofthegentleman，and，ofcourse，cannotbehiswife，bywhatrightdoyouinterferetopreventhisansweringme？’’Theladythusaddressedstartedagainasifstabbed，turnedpale，andgaspedout，``Pardon，madam;IAMthewifeofthegentleman。’’InstantlyMrs。
X。becameagainpenitentlyapologetic，andanswered，``Madam，Ibegathousandpardons;Iwillnotspeakagaintothegentleman’’;andthen，turningtome，saidverysolemnly，butloudly，sothatallmighthear，``Heavens！canitbepossible！’’
Bythistimewewereallindistress，theGermanladyalmostinastateofcollapse，andherhusbandhardlylessso。AtvarioustimesduringtheremainderofthejourneyIheardthemaffectingtolaughthematteroff，butitwasclearthatthethrustfrommyfaircompatriothadcutdeepandwouldlastlong。
Arrivingatourdestination，Iobtainedthekeytothemystery。OntakingleaveofMrs。X。，Isaid，``ThatwasratherseveretreatmentwhichyouadministeredtotheGermanlady。’’``Yes，’’sheanswered;``itwillteachherneveragaintogooutofherwaytoinsultanAmericanwoman。’’ShethentoldmethattheladyhadbeenevidentlyvexedbecauseMrs。X。hadbroughthermaidintothecompartment;andthatthisaristocraticdamehadshownherfeelingbyapplyingherhandkerchieftohernose，bysniffing，andbyvariousothersignsofdisgust。
``Andthen，’’saidMrs。X。，``Ideterminedtoteachheralesson。’’
IneversawMrs。X。again。Afterabrilliantsocialcareerofafewyearsshedied;butherson，whowasthenaboyoftwelveyears，inashortjacket，hassincebecomeveryprominentinEuropeandAmerica，and，inaway，influential。
InParisIdeliveredmydespatchestoourminister，Mr。
Mason;wasintroducedtoBaronSeebach，theSaxonmin—
ister，Nesselrode’sson—in—law，whowasaleadingpersonageattheconferenceofthegreatpowerstheninsession;andsawvariousinterestingmen，amongthemsundryyoungofficersoftheUnitedStatesarmy，whowereontheirwaytotheCrimeainordertoobservethewarlikeoperationsgoingonthere，andoneofthem，McClellan，alsoonhiswaytotheheadofourownarmyintheCivilWarwhichbeganafewyearslater。
ItwasthetimeofthefirstgreatFrenchExposition——
thatof1855。TheEmperorNapoleonIIIhadopeneditwithmuchpomp;and，thoughthewholeaffairwaspettycomparedwithwhatwehaveknownsince，itattractedvisitorsfromthewholeworld，andamongthemcameHoraceGreeley。
AsheshuffledalongtheboulevardsandstreetsofParis，inhismooningway，heattractedmuchwonderingattention，butwashimselfveryunhappybecausehisignoranceoftheFrenchlanguagepreventedhistalkingwiththepeopleabouthim。
Hehadjustgonethroughasingularexperience，having，thedaybeforemyarrival，beenreleasedfromClichyprison，wherehehadbeenconfinedfordebt。Nothingcouldbemorecomicalthanthewholebusinessfromfirsttolast。AyearortwopreviouslytherehadtakenplaceinNewYork，onwhathasbeensinceknownasReservoirSquare，aninternationalexpositionwhich，foritsday，wasverycreditable;but，thisexpositionhavingendedinbankruptcy，anewboardofcommissionershadbeenchosen，who，itwashoped，wouldsecurepublicconfidence，andamongthesewasMr。Greeley。
Yetevenunderthisnewboardtheexpositionhadnotbeenasuccess;andithadbeenfinallywoundupinaveryunsatisfactoryway，manypeoplecomplainingthattheirexhibitshadnotbeenreturnedtothem——amongtheseaFrenchsculptorofmoreambitionthanrepute，whohadsentaplastercastofsomesortofallegoricalfiguretowhichheattributedanenormousvalue。HavingsoughtinvainforredressinAmerica，hereturnedtoEuropeandthereawaitedthecomingofsomeoneofthedirectors;
andthefirstofthesewhomhecaughtwasnolessapersonthanGreeleyhimself，who，soonafterarrivinginParis，wasarrestedforthedebtandtakentoClichyprison。
MuchfeelingwasshownbytheAmericancommunity。
EveryoneknewthatMr。Greeley’sconnectionwiththeNewYorkexpositionwasmerelyofagood—natured，nominalsort。ItthereforebecamethefashionamongtravelingAmericanstovisithimwhilethusindurancevile;
andamongthosewhothuscalleduponhimweretwoformerPresidentsoftheUnitedStates，bothofwhomhehadmostbitterlyopposed——Mr。VanBurenandMr。Fillmore。
TheAmericanlegationhavingmadeveryearnestrepresentations，theprisonerwassoonreleased;andthemosttangibleresultofthewholebusinesswasaletter，verypithyandcharacteristic，whichGreeleywrotetothe``NewYorkTribune，’’givingthisstrangeexperience，andclosingwiththewords:``SoendedmylastchancetolearnFrench。’’
AdayortwoafterhisreleaseImethimatthestudentrestaurantofMadameBusque。AlargecompanyofAmericanswerepresent;andshortlyaftertakinghisseatattablehetriedtoaskforsomegreenstring—beans，whichweretheninseason。Addressingoneoftheserving—
maids，hesaid，``Flawronce，donneymoy——donneymoy——
donneymoy——’’;andthen，unabletoremembertheword，heimpatientlyscreamedoutinahightreble，thrustingouthisplateatthesametime，``BEANS！’’Thecrowdofusburstintolaughter;whereuponDonnPiatt，thensecretaryofthelegationatParisandafterwardeditorofthe``Capital’’atWashington，said:``Why，Greeley，youdon’timproveabit;youknewbeansyesterday。’’
ThisrestaurantofMadameBusque’shadbeen，forsomeyears，aplaceofresortforAmericanstudentsandtheirtravelingfriends。Thefewdishesserved，thoughsimple，weregood;allwasplain;therewerenotable—
cloths;buttheplacewasmadeattractivebytheportraitsofvariousAmericanartistsandstudentswhohadfrequentedtheplaceindaysgoneby，andwhohadlefttheseadornmentstothegoodoldmadame。