thatFrancewouldgladlyhavepaidamuchlargersumthanfivemilliardsifshecouldhaveretainedAlsace—
  Lorraine;thatBismarckwouldhavemadeconcessions;butthat``Molkt’’wouldnot。HeaddedthatBismarcktold``Molkt’’thathe——thelatter——had,byinsistingonterritory,madepeacetoodifficult。Saint—HilairedweltlongonthefearfullegacyofstandingarmiesleftbythepolicywhichGermanyfinallyadopted,andevidentlyconsideredagreatinternationalwarasapproaching。[16]
  [16]December,1880。
  DiningafterwardattheForeignOfficewithmyoldfriendMillet,whowassecondincommandthere,ImetvariousinterestingFrenchmen,butwasmostofallpleasedwithM。Ribot。HavingdistinguishedhimselfbyphilosophicalstudiesandmadeahighreputationintheFrenchparliament,hewasnaturallyonhiswaytothecommandingpostintheministrywhichheafterwardobtained。Hiswife,anAmerican,wasespeciallyattractive。
  Itisathousandpitiesthatacountrypossessingsuchmenissowidelyknowntotheworld,notbythese,butbynovelistsanddramatistslargelyretailingfilth,journalistslargelygiventotheinventionofsensationallies,politicianslargelyobeyingeitheratheisticdemagoguesorclericalintriguers;andalltogetheractinglikeaswarmofobscene,tricky,mangymonkeyschattering,squealing,andtweakingoneanother’stailsinacage。SomeofthesemonkeysIsawperformingtheiranticsintheNationalAssemblythensittingatVersailles;anditsaddenedmetoseethenoblerelementinthatassemblagethwartedbysuchfeatherbrainedcreatures。[16]
  [16]December,1880。
  Anothermanofnote,nextwhomIfoundmyselfatadinner—party,wasM。deLesseps。Istillbelievehimtohavebeenagreatandtrueman,despitethecloudoffraudwhichthemisdeedsofothersdrewoverhislatterdays。Amongsundrycommentsonourcountry,hesaidthathehadvisitedSaltLakeCity,andthoughtapolicyofforceagainsttheMormonsamistake。InthisIfeelsurethathewasright。YearsagoIwasconvincedbyBishopTuttleoftheProtestantEpiscopalChurch,whohadbeenstationedforsomeyearsatSaltLakeCity,thatawaitingpolicy,inwhichpropercivilizationcanbebroughttobearupontheMormons,isthetruecourse。
  OnthefollowingSundayIheardPreHyacinthepreach,asatseveralvisitsbefore;buttheonlythingatallmemorablewasaratherhappyapplicationofVoltaire’sremarkontheHolyRomanEmpire,``NiSaint,niEmpire,niRomain。’’
  AtthesalonofMadameEdmondAdam,eminentasawriterofreviewarticlesandasahaterofeverythingTeutonic,Iwaspresentedtoacrowdofliterarymenwho,thoughatthatmomentstrikingthestarswiththeirloftyheads,havesincedroppedintooblivion。AmongtheseI
  especiallyremembermiledeGirardin,editor,spouter,intriguer——the``Grandmile,’’whoboastedthatheinventedandpresentedtotheFrenchpeopleanewideaeveryday。ThisfutileactivityofhisalwaysseemedtomebestexpressedintheAmericansimile:``Busyasabeeinatar—barrel。’’Therewas,indeed,onethingtohiscredit:
  hehadsomehowinspiredhisformerwife,thegiftedDelphineGay,withabeliefinhisgreatness;andaprettystorywascurrentillustratingthis。Duringtherevolutionof1848,variousmenofnote,callingonMadameGirardin,expressedalarmattheprogressofthatmostfoolishofoverturns,whenshesaid,withanairofgreatsolemnity,andpointingupward,``Gentlemen,thereisoneabovewhowatchesoverFrance。(Ilyaunl—hautquiveillesurlaFrance。)’’Allweregreatlyimpressedbythisevidenceofsublimefaith,untilthecontextshowedthatitwasnottheAlmightyinwhomsheputhertrust,butthegreatmile,whosestudywasjustaboveherparlor。
  Thisremindsmethat,duringmystudentdaysatParis,Iattendedthefuneralofthisgiftedlady,andinthecrowdofwell—knownpersonspresentnoticedespeciallyAlexandreDumas。Hewasverytallandlarge,withanAfricanhead,thicklips,andbushy,crisphair。Heevidentlyintendedtobeseen。Hisgood—naturedvanitywasasundisguisedaswhenhisfamoussonsaidofhiminhispresence,``Myfatherissovainthatheiscapableofstandinginliverybehindhisowncarriagetomakepeoplethinkhesportsanegrofootman。’’
  Goingsouthward,IstoppedatBourges,andwasfascinatedbytheamazingstoneworkofthecrypt。Howthemediaevalcathedral—builderswereabletoaccomplishsuchintricateworkwiththemeansattheircommandisstilloneofthegreatmysteries。Thereisto—dayintheUnitedStatesnogroupofworkmenwhocouldexecuteanythingapproachingthiswork,tosaynothingofsuchpiecesasthevaultingofHenryVII’sChapelatWestminsterorofKing’sCollegeChapelatCambridge。
  ThencewewenttotheChurchofBrou,nearLyons——
  exquisitelybeautiful,andfilledwithmonumentsevenmoreinspiringthanthechurchitself。Butitwasentirelyevident,fromalookatthechurchanditssurroundings,thatMatthewArnoldhadwrittenhischarmingpoemwithoutevervisitingtheplace。GoingthencetoNice,westoppedatTurin;andatthegraveofSilvioPellicotherecamebacktomevividmemoriesofhislittlebook,whichhadseemedtomakelifebetterworthliving。
  AtGenoaadecisionhadtobemade。AmassoflettersofintroductiontoleadingItalianshadbeengivenme,andIlongedtomaketheiracquaintance;butIwasweary,andsuddenlydecidedtoturnasideandgoupontheRiviera,wherewesettledforourvacationatNice。Therewefoundvariousinterestingpeople,moreespeciallythosebelongingtotheAmericancolonyandtotheship—of—warTrenton,thenlyingatVillefranche,nearby。Shortlyafterourarrival,LieutenantEmeryofthenavycalled,bearinganinvitationtotheshipfromAdmiralHowell,whowasincommandatthatstation;and,adayortwolater,onarrivingintheharbor,thoughIsawalong—boatdressedoutveryfinely,evidentlyawaitingsomebody,andsuspectedthatitwasintendedforme,IquietlyevadedthewholebusinessbyjoiningapartyofAmericansinasteam—launch,sothatIhadbeenonboardsomelittletimebeforetheadmiralrealizedtheomissioninhisprogramme。
  Asaresult,inordertoquiethisconscientiousandpatrioticfeelings,Icameagainadayortwoafterward,wasconveyedtothefrigatewiththeregulationpomp,andreceivedthesalutesdueanAmericanminister。
  Mystayontheshipwasdelightful;but,thoughtheadmiralmostkindlyurgedmetorevisithim,Icouldneveragaingathercouragetocausesomuchtroubleandmakesomuchnoise。
  MostinterestingtomeofallthepersonsinNiceatthattimewasayoungAmericanaboutfourteenyearsofage,whoseemedtomeoneofthebrightestandnoblestandmostpromisingyouthsIhadeverseen。Alas!howmanyhopesweredisappointedinhisdeathnotlongafterward!
  TheboywasyoungLelandStanford。Theaspirationsofhisfatherandmotherwereboundupinhim,andthegreatuniversityatPaloAltoisperhapsthefinestmonumenteverdedicatedbyparentstoachild。
  DuringanotheroftheseyearlyabsencesinItaly,Imetvariousinterestingmen,and,amongthese,atFlorencethesyndicUbaldinoPeruzzi,adescendantofthegreatPeruzzisofthemiddleages,andoneofthelastsurvivingassociatesofCavour。Hewasanadmirabletalker;butofallhesaidIwasmostpleasedwiththetributewhichhepaidtotheAmericanministeratRome,JudgeStalloofCincinnati。
  Hedeclaredthatatarecentconferenceofstatesmenanddiplomatists,JudgeStallohadcarriedoffallthehonors——
  speakingwithease,asmightbenecessary,inItalian,French,andEnglish,andfinallydrawingupaprotocolinLatin。
  AtFlorencealsoImadeanacquaintancewhichhaseversincebeenasourceofgreatpleasuretome——thatofProfessorVillari,senatorofthekingdom,historianofFlorence,andbiographerofSavonarola。SobeganafriendshipwhichhasincreasedthedelightsofmanyFlorentinevisitssincethosedays——afriendshipnotonlywithhim,butwithhisgiftedandcharmingwife。
  ThisremindsmethatatRomethenameoftheeminentprofessoroncebroughtuponmeacuriousreproof。
  Ihadmetatvarioustimes,intheEternalCityandelsewhere,arisingyoungprofessorandofficerofHarvardUniversity;and,beingonemorninginLoescher’sfamousbook—shopontheCorso,withalargenumberofpurchasesaboutme,thisgentlemancameinand,lookingthemover,waspleasedtoapproveseveralofthem。Presently,onshowinghimavolumejustpublishedandsaying,``ThereisthenewvolumeofVillari’shistory,’’Ipronouncedthenameoftheauthorwiththeaccentonthefirstsyllable,asanyoneacquaintedwithhimknowsthatitoughttobepronounced。Atthistheexcellentprofessortookthebook,butseemedtohavesomethingonhismind;and,havingglancedthroughit,heatlastsaid,rathersolemnly,``Yes;
  VillAri’’——accentingstronglythesecondsyllable——``isanadmirablewriter。’’Iacceptedhiscorrectionmeeklyandmadenoreply。Athingsotrivialwouldnotbeworthrememberingwereitnotoneofthoseevidences,whichprofessorsfromotherinstitutionsinourcountryhavenotinfrequentlyexperienced,ofa``certaincondescension’’
  insundrymenwhodohonortooneortwoofouroldestandgreatestuniversities。
  OfallpeopleatRomeIwasmostimpressedbyMarcoMinghetti。AconversationwithhimIhavegiveninanotherchapter。
  ReminiscencesofthatfirstofficiallifeofmineatBerlincenter,firstofall,inBismarck,andtheninthetwogreatrulerswhohavesincepassedaway——theoldhero,EmperorWilliamI,andthatembodimentofallqualitieswhichanymancouldaskforinamonarch,thecrownprincewhoafterwardbecametheEmperorFrederickIII。
  Bothwerekindly,butthelatterwasespeciallywinning。
  AtdifferenttimesIhadthepleasureofmeetingandtalkingwithhimonvarioussubjects;butperhapsthemostinterestingoftheseinterviewswasonewhichtookplacewhenitbecamemydutytoconducthimthroughtheAmericanexhibitintheInternationalFisheriesExhibitionatBerlin。
  HehadtakengreatinterestindevelopingthefisheriesalongthenortherncoastofGermany,andthisexhibitionwastheresult。Onedayhesentthevice—chancelloroftheempiretoaskmewhetheritwasnotpossibletosecureanexhibitfromtheUnitedStates,andespeciallytheloanofourwonderfulcollectionsfromtheSmithsonianInstitutionandfromtheFisheriesInstitutionofWood’sHoll{sic}。
  Todothiswasdifficult。Beforemyarrivalanattempthadbeenmadeandfailed。WordhadcomefrompersonshighinauthorityatWashingtonthatCongresscouldnotbeinducedtomakethelargeappropriationrequired,andthatsendingoverthecollectionswasoutofthequestion。
  IpromisedtodowhatIcould;and,rememberingthatFernandoWoodofNewYorkwaschairmanoftheCommitteeofWaysandMeansintheHouse,andthatGovernorSeymour,thenlivinginretirementnearUtica,washisoldpoliticalassociate,andespeciallyinterestedinre—
  stockingthewatersofNewYorkStatewithfish,Isenttheex—governorastatementofthewholecase,andurgedhimtopresentitfullytoMr。Wood。ThenIwroteinthesameveintoSenatorConkling,and,tomygreatsatisfaction,carriedtheday。TheappropriationwasmadebyCongress;andthecollectionsweresentoverunderthecontrolofMr。BrownGoodeoftheSmithsonian,perhapsthemostadmirablemanwhocouldhavebeenchosenoutofthewholeworldforthatpurpose。Theprincewasgreatlydelightedwithallhesaw,showedremarkableintelligenceinhisquestions,and,thankstoMr。Goode’sassistance,hereceivedsatisfactoryanswers。TheresultwasthattheAmericanexhibittookthegreatprize——thesilver—
  giltvaseofferedbytheEmperorWilliam,whichisnowintheNationalMuseumatWashington。
  Theprinceshowedarealinterestineverythingofimportanceinourcountry。IrememberhisaskingmeregardingtheBrooklynBridge——howitcouldpossiblybesustainedwithoutguy—ropes。Ofcourseitwaseasytoshowhimthatwhileinthefirstofourgreatsuspension—
  bridges——thatatNiagara——guy—ropeswereadmissible,atBrooklyntheywerenot:sinceshipsofwaraswellasmerchantvesselsofthelargestsizemustpassbeneathit;andIcouldonlyaddthatRoebling,whobuiltit,wasamanofsuchskillandforethoughtthatundoubtedly,withtheweighthewasputtingintoitandthesystemoftrusseshewasplacinguponit,noguy—ropeswouldbeneeded。
  Onmanyoccasionstheprinceshowedthoughtfulkindnesstomembersofmyfamilyaswellastomyself,andthenewsofhisdeathgavemerealsorrow。Itwasavastlosstohiscountry;nomodernmonarchhasshownsostrikingalikenesstoMarcusAurelius。
  HardlylessheartyandkindlywastheEmperorthenreigning——WilliamI。Naturallyenough,heremembered,aboveallwhohadprecededme,Mr。Bancroft。Hisfirstquestionatcourtgenerallywas,``Howgoesitwithyourpredecessor?(WiegehtesmitIhremVorgnger?)’’andIalwaysknewthatbymy``predecessor’’
  hemeantBancroft。WhenIoncetoldhimthatMr。
  Bancroft,whowasnotfarfromtheoldKaiser’sage,hadboughtanewhorseandwasridingassiduouslyeveryday,theoldmonarchlaughedheartilyanddweltonhisrecollectionsofmypredecessor,withhislongwhitebeard,ridingthroughtheThiergarten。
  Pleasanttomewasthelastinterview,onthepresentationofmyletterofrecall。ItwasatBabelsberg,theEmperor’scountry—seatatPotsdam;andhedetainedmelong,talkingoveramultitudeofsubjectsinawaywhichshowedmuchkindlyfeeling。Amongotherthings,heaskedwheremyfamilyhadbeenstayingthroughthesummer。MyanswerwasthatwehadbeenatahotelneartheparkorpalaceofWilhelmshheaboveCassel;andthatweallagreedthathehadbeenverymagnanimousinassigningtotheEmperorNapoleonIIIsosplendidaprisonandsuchbeautifulsurroundings。Tothisheansweredquiteearnestly,``Yes;andhewasverygratefulforit,andwrotemetosayso;but,afterall,thatisbynomeansthefinestpalaceinGermany。’’TothisI
  answered,``YourMajestyisentirelyright;thatIsawonvisitingthepalaceofWrzburg。’’Atthishelaughedheartily,andsaid,``Yes,Iseethatyouunderstandit;
  thoseoldprince—bishopsknewhowtolive。’’Asamatteroffact,variousprince—bishopsintheeighteenthcenturyimpoverishedtheirrealmsinbuildingjustsuchimitationsofVersaillesasthatsumptuousWrzburgPalace。
  Hethenaskedme,``OnwhatshipdoyougotoAmerica?’’andIanswered,``OnthefinestshipinyourMajesty’smerchantnavy——theElbe。’’Hethenaskedmesomethingabouttheship;andwhenIhadtoldhimhowbeautifullyitwasequipped,——itbeingthefirstofthelargershipsoftheNorthGermanLloyd,——heanswered,``Yes;whatisnowdoinginthewayofshipbuildingiswonderful。Ireceivedaletterfrommyson,thecrownprince,thismorning,onthatverysubject。HeisatOsborne,andhasjustvisitedagreatEnglishiron—cladman—of—war。Itiswonderful;butitcostamillionpoundssterling。’’Atthisheraisedhisvoice,and,throwingupbothhands,saidveryearnestly,``Wecan’tstandit;wecan’tstandit。’’
  Afterthisandmuchotherpleasantchat,heputouthishandandsaid,``AufWiedersehen’’;andsoweparted,eachtotakehisownwayintoeternity。
  Theotherfarewellstomewerealsogratifying。TheGermanpresswasverykindlyinitsreferencestomydeparture;andjustbeforeIleftBerlinadinnerwasgivenmeinthegreathalloftheKaiserhofbyleadingmeninparliamentary,professional,literary,andartisticcircles。KindlyspeechesweremadebyGneist,Camphausen,Delbrck,GeorgevonBunsen,andothers——allformingatreasureinmymemorywhich,aslongaslifelasts,Icanneverlose。
  CHAPTERXXXII
  MYRECOLLECTIONSOFBISMARCK——1879—1881
  MyfirstglimpseofBismarckwasobtainedduringoneofmyjourneysthroughmiddleGermany,aboutthetime,Ithink,oftheFranco—PrussianWar。ArrivingattheKissingenjunction,wefoundacrowdgatheredoutsidethebarriers,andallgazingatarailway—carriageabouttobeattachedtoourtrain。Lookingtowardthis,I
  recognizedthefaceandformofthegreatNorth—Germanstatesman。Hewasintheprimeoflife——sturdy,hearty,andhappyinthepresenceofhiswifeandchildren。Thepeopleatthestationevidentlyknewwhatwasneeded;forhardlyhadhearrivedwhenwaitersappeared,bearingsalverscoveredwithhugemugsoffoamingbeer。ThereuponBismarcktooktwoofthemugsinimmediatesuccession;
  pouredtheircontentsdownhisthroat,evidentlywithgreatgusto;andaburlypeasantjustbackofme,unablelongertorestrainhisadmiration,soliloquizedinadeep,slow,guttural,reverberatingrumble:``A—a—a—berersiehtsehr—r—rgutaus。’’Soitstruckmealso;thewatersofKissingenhadevidentlyrestoredthegreatman,andhelookedlikeaTitanreadyforbattle。
  Mypersonalintercoursewithhimbeganin1879,when,aschancelloroftheGermanEmpire,hereceivedmeasministeroftheUnitedStates。Onmyenteringhisworkroom,herose;anditseemedtomethatIhadneverseenanothermansotoweringsaveAbrahamLincoln。Oneithersideofhimwerehistwobig,blackdogs,theReichshunde;and,asheputouthishandwithapleasantsmile,theyseemedtojoinkindlyinthewelcome。
  HisfirstremarkwasthatIseemedayoungmantoundertakethedutiesofaminister,towhichImadethetritereplythattimewouldspeedilycurethatdefect。Theconversationthenran,foratime,uponcommonplacesubjects,butfinallystruckmattersofinteresttobothourcountries。
  Therewerethen,aseversince,agreatnumberoftroublesomequestionsbetweenthetwonations,andamongthemthoserelatingtoGermanswho,havinggoneovertotheUnitedStatesjustatthemilitaryage,hadlivedtheremerelylongenoughtoacquirecitizenship,andhadthenhastenedbacktoGermanytoenjoytheprivilegesofbothcountrieswithoutdischargingthedutiesofeither。Thesepersonshaddonegreatharmtotheinterestsofbona—fideGerman—Americans,andBismarckevidentlyhadanintensedislikeforthem。Thisheshowedthenandafterward;
  buthistendenciestoseveritytowardthemweretempted{sic}bytheministerofforeignaffairs,VonBlow,oneofthemostreasonablemeninpublicbusinesswithwhomIhaveeverhadtodo,andfatherofthepresentchancellor,whogreatlyresembleshim。
  ButBismarck’sfeelingagainstthemenwhohadacquiredAmericancitizenshipforthepurposeofevadingtheirdutiesinbothcountriesdidnotpreventhistakingagreatinterestinGermanswhohadsettledintheUnitedStatesand,whilebecominggoodAmericans,hadpreservedaninterestintheFatherland。Hespokeofthese,withalarge,kindlyfeeling,asconstitutingabondbetweenthetwonations。Amongotherthings,heremarkedthatGermanslivingintheUnitedStatesbecomemoretractablethaninthelandoftheirbirth;thatrevolutioniststhusbecomemoderates,andradicalsconservatives;thatthewordEinigkeit(union)hadalwaysacharmforthem;
  thatithadworkedbothwaysuponthemforgood,theunionofStatesinAmericaleadingthemtoprizetheunionofstatesinGermany,andtheevilsofdisunioninGermany,whichhadbeensolongandpainful,leadingthemtoabhordisunioninAmerica。
  Theconversationthenfellintoordinarychannels,andI
  tookleaveafteranotherheartyshakeofthehandandvariouskindassurances。Afewdayslatercameaninvitationtodinnerwithhim;andIprizedthisallthemorebecauseitwasnottobeanofficial,butafamilydinner,andwastoincludeafewofhismostintimatefriendsintheministryandtheparliament。Ontheinvitationitwasstatedthateveningdresswasnottobeworn;andonmyarrival,accompaniedbyHerrvonSchltzer,atthattimetheGermanministerinWashington,Ifoundalltheguestsarrayedinsimpleafternooncostume。Thetablehadapatriarchalcharacter。Attheheadsattheprince;athisside,inthenextseatbutone,hiswife;whilebetweenthemwastheseatassignedme,sothatIenjoyedtothefulltheconversationofboth。Theotherseatsattheheadofthetablewereoccupiedbyvariousguests;andthen,scatteredalongdown,weremembersofthefamilyandsomepersonagesinthechancerywhostoodnearestthechief。Theconversationwasledbyhim,andsoontookaturnespeciallyinteresting。HeaskedmewhethertherehadeverbeenaseriousefforttomakeNewYorkthepermanentcapitalofthenation。Iansweredthattherehadnot;thatbothNewYorkandPhiladelphiawere,forashortperiodatthebeginningofournationalhistory,provisionalcapitals;butthattherewasadeep—seatedideathatthepermanentcapitalshouldnotbeacommercialmetropolis,andthatunquestionablytheplacingofitatWashingtonwasdecided,notmerelybythecentralpositionofthatcity,butalsobythefactthatitwasanartificialtown,neverlikelytobeagreatbusinesscenter;andIcitedThomasJefferson’ssaying,``Greatcitiesaregreatsores。’’Heansweredthatinthisourfoundersshowedwisdom;thattheFrenchweremakingabadmistakeinbringingtheirnationallegislaturebackfromVersaillestoParis;thattheconstructionofthehumanbodyfurnishesagoodhintforarrangementsinthebodypolitic;that,asthehumanbrainisheldinastronginclosure,andatadistancefromthepartsofthebodywhicharemostactivephysically,sothebrainofthenationshouldbeprotectedwiththegreatestcare,andshouldnotbeplacedinthemidstofagreat,turbulentmetropolis。TothisIassented,butsaidthatduringmyattendanceatsessionsoftheFrenchlegislativebodies,bothinmyolddaysatParisandmorerecentlyatVersailles,itseemedtomethattheirmaindefectsarethoseoftheirqualities;thatoneofthemostfrequentoccupationsoftheirmembersisteasingoneanother,andthatwhentheyteaseoneanothertheyarewonderfullywitty;
  thatintheAmericanCongressandintheBritishParliamentmembersaremoreslowtocatchasubtlecommentorscathingwitticism;thatthemembersofAmericanandBritishassembliesaremorelikelargegrainsofcannon—
  powder,throughwhichignitionextendsslowly,sothattherecomesnosuddenexplosion;whereasintheFrenchAssemblythemembersaremorelikeminute,brightgrainsofrifle—powder,whichalltakefireatthesamemoment,withinstantdetonation,andexplosionssometimesdisastrous。Heassentedtothis,butinsistedthatthecurseofFrenchassemblieshadbeenthetyrannyofcitymobs,andespeciallyofmobsinthegalleriesoftheirassemblies;
  thattheworstfaultpossibleinanydeliberativebodyisspeakingtothegalleries;thatagallerymobissuretogetbetweenthemembersandthecountry,andvirtuallyscreenofffromtheassemblytheinterestsofthecountry。
  TothisImostheartilyassented。
  Imaysayherethattherehadnotthenbeenfullydevelopedinourcountrythatmonstrousabsurditywhichwehaveseenintheselastfewyears——nationalconventionsofthetwopartiestryingtodeliberateinthemidstofaudiencesoftwelveorfifteenthousandpeople;avastmobinthegalleries,oftennoisy,andsometimeshysterical,frequentlyseekingtothrowthedelegatesofftheirbearings,tooutclamorthem,andtoforcenominationsuponthem。
  Alittlelater,aswediscussedcertainrecentbooks,Ire—
  ferredtoJulesSimon’sworkonThiers’sadministration。
  BismarcksaidthatThiers,inthetreatynegotiationsatVersailles,impressedhimstrongly;thathewasapatriot;
  thatheseemedatthattimelikeaRomanamongByzantines。
  Thisstatementastonishedme。IfeverthereexistedamanattheoppositepolefromBismarck,Thierswascertainlythatman。Ihadstudiedhimasahistorian,observedhimasastatesman,andconversedwithhimasasocialbeing;andhehadalwaysseemed,andstillseems,tomethemostnoxiousofallthegreaterarchitectsofruinthatFranceproducedduringthelatterhalfofthenineteenthcentury——andthatissayingmuch。Hispolicywastodiscrediteverygovernmentwhichhefoundexisting,inorderthatitsruinsmightservehimasapedestal;
  and,whilehecertainlyshowedgreatskillinmitigatingthecalamitieswhichhedidsomuchtocause,hiswholecareerwasdamning。
  Byhis``HistoryoftheFrenchRevolution’’herevivedtheworstoftheRevolutionlegend,andespeciallythedeificationofdestructiveness;byhis``HistoryoftheConsulateandoftheEmpire,’’andhistranslationofthebodyofNapoleontoFrance,heeffectivelyrevivedtheNapoleoniclegend。TheQueenoftheFrench,whenescapingfromtheTuileriesin1848,wasentirelyrightinreproachinghimwithunderminingtheconstitutionalmonarchyof1830;
  andnomandidmorethanhetoarouseandmaintaintheanti—GermanspiritwhichledtotheFranco—PrussianWar。
  Byhiswritings,speeches,andintriguesheaidedinupsetting,notonlytheruleoftheBourbonsin1830,buttheruleofLouisPhilippein1848,theSecondRepublicin1851,andtheSecondEmpirein1870;and,hadhelived,hewoulddoubtlesshavedonethesamebythepresentRepublic。
  LouisBlanc,arevolutionistofanotherbadsort——socommoninFrance——whocanruinbutNOTrestore,oncesaidtomethatThiers’s``greatestpowerlayinhisvoicingaverage,unthinking,popularfolly;sothatafteroneofhisspeecheseveryfoolinFrancewouldcryoutwithdelight,``Mais,voilmonopinion!’’
  DoubtlessBismarckwasimpressed,forthetimebeing,byThiers’sskillinnegotiation;butitisperfectlyevident,fromtherecollectionsofvariousofficialssincepublished,thathisusualopinionofThierswasnotatallindicatedbyhisremarkabovecited。
  Latertheconversationfellupontravel;and,ashespokeofhisexperiencesinvariouspartsofEurope,IrecommendedAmericatohimasanewfieldofobservation——alludingplayfullytothecitynamedafterhim,andsuggestingthathetakehisfamilywithhimuponalargesteamer,and,afterseeingthemoreinterestingthingsintheUnitedStates,passonaroundtheworld,callingattheSamoanIslands,onwhichIhadrecentlyheardhimspeakinparliament。Aftersomehumorousobjectionstothisplan,hesaidthatearlyinlifehehadagreatpassionfortravel,butthatuponhisfather’sdeathhewasobligedtodevotehimselftogettinghisestateinorder;thateversincethattimehispoliticaldutieshadpreventedhistravelingmuch;
  andthatnowhehadlosttheloveofwandering,andinplaceofithadgainedadesiretosettledowninthemidstofhisfamily。
  HespokeEnglishsoperfectlythatIaskedhimhowmuchtimehehadspentinEngland。Hesaid,``Verylittle——infact,onlytwoorthreedays。’’Hehadmadebuttwoshortvisits,oneofthemmanyyearsago,——Ithinkhesaidin1842,——theotherduringtheexpositionof1862。HeseemedmuchstruckwiththebeautyofEngland,andsaidthatifhislothadbeencasttherehewouldhavebeenveryhappyasanEnglishcountrygentleman;thathecouldnotunderstandhowEnglishmenaresopronetoliveoutsideoftheirowncountry。HespokeofvariousEnglishmen,andreferredtoLordDufferin,whohaddinedwithhimthedaybefore,asoneofthemostabstemiousmenhehadeverseen,drinkingonlyalittleclaretandwater。UponmyspeakingofthegreatimprovementwhichIhadnotedinEnglandduringthelastquarterofacentury,sothatthewholecountrywasbecomingmoreandmorelikeagarden,hesaidthatsuchastatementwashardlylikelytopleasethinkingEnglishmen;thattheycouldhardlybegladthatEnglandshouldbecomemoreandmorelikeagarden;``for,’’hesaid,``feedingagreatnationfromagardenislikeprovisioninganarmywithplumcake。’’
  HethendweltonthefactthatGreatBritainhadbecomemoreandmoredependentforherdailybreadonothercountries,andespeciallyontheUnitedStates。
  Theconversationnextturnedtothemanagementofestates,andheremarked,inabluff,heartyway,thathisfatherhaddesiredhimtobecomeaclergyman;thattherewasapastor’sliving,worth,ifIrememberrightly,aboutfifteenhundredthalersayear,whichhisfatherthoughtshouldbekeptinthefamily。Thisledtosomeamusingconversationbetweenhimandtheprincessonwhathislifewouldhavebeenundersuchcircumstances,endingbyhissayingjocoselytoher,``YouprobablythinkthatifI
  hadbecomeapastorIwouldhavebeenabetterman。’’Towhichsheansweredthatthisshewouldnotsay;thatitwouldnotbepolite。``But,’’shecontinued,``Iwillsaythis:thatyouwouldhavebeenahappierman。’’
  Hereferredtosomeofmypredecessors,speakingverykindlyofBayardTaylorandGeorgeBancroft;butbothheandtheprincessdweltespeciallyupontheirrelationswithMotley。TheprincetoldmeoftheirlifetogetheratGttingenandatBerlin,andofMotley’svisitssince,whenhealwaysbecameBismarck’sguest。TheprincesssaidthattherewasonesubjectonwhichitwasalwaysadelighttoteaseMotley——hissuppressednovel``Merrymount’’;thatMotleydefendedhimselfingeniouslyinvariouswaysuntil,athislastvisit,beingpressedhard,hedeclaredthatthewholethingwasameremyth;thathehadneverwrittenanysuchnovel。
  Thedinnerbeingended,ourassemblywasadjournedtotheterraceatthebackofthechancellor’spalace,lookingoutupontheparkinwhichhewaswonttotakehisfamousmidnightwalks。Coffeeandcigarswerebrought,butforBismarckapipewithalongwoodenstemandalargeporcelainbowl。Itwasamassiveaffair;and,inajocose,apologeticway,hesaidthat,althoughothersmightsmokecigarsandcigarettes,heclungtothepipe——andinspiteofthefactthat,atthePhiladelphiaExposition,ashehadheard,agreatGermanpipewashungamongtomahawks,scalping—knives,andotherrelicsofbarbarism。Fromtimetotimeaservantrefilledhispipe,whilehediscourseduponvarioussubjects——firstupontheconditionofAmericaandofGermany;thenuponSouthAmericanmatters,andofthestrugglebetweenChileandotherpowers。HeshowedgreatrespectfortheChileans,andthoughtthattheymanifestedreallysterlingqualities。
  Hespokeofship—building,andshowed,asitseemedtome,ratheracloseknowledgeofthemainpointsinvolved。
  HereferredtothesuperiorityofRussianships,thewoodusedbeingmoresuitablethanthatgenerallyfoundelsewhere。
  AstoAmericanships,hethoughttheywerebuilt,asarule,ofinferiorwoods,andthattheirreputationhadsufferedinconsequence。
  Theconversationagainfallinguponpublicmen,areferenceofminetoGladstonedidnotelicitanythinglikeaheartyresponse;butthementionofDisraeliseemedtoarouseacordialfeeling。
  AmongtheguestswasLotharBucher,whomBismarck,inearlierdays,wouldhavehangedifhehadcaughthim,butwhohadnowbecomethechancellor’smostconfidentialagent;and,aswecameouttogether,Buchersaid:``Well,whatdoyouthinkofhim?’’Myanswerwas:``HeseemsevenagreatermanthanIhadexpected。’’``Yes,’’saidBucher;``andIamoneofthosewhohavesufferedmuchandlongtomakehimpossible。’’Isaid:``Theresultisworthit,isitnot?’’``Yes,’’wasthereply;``infinitelymorethanworthit。’’
  Mynextvisitwasofaverypeculiarsort。OnedaytherearrivedatthelegationMr。WilliamD。KellyofPennsylvania,anxious,aboveallthings,tohaveatalkwithBismarck,especiallyuponthetariffandthedoublemonetarystandard,bothofwhichwerejustthenburningquestions。ItoldMr。KellythatitwasmucheasiertopresenthimtotheEmperorthantothechancellor,butthatwewouldseewhatcouldbedone。ThereuponIwroteanotetellingBismarckwhoMr。Kellywas——theseniormemberoftheHouseofRepresentativesbytermofservice,theleadingchampionthereinofprotectionandofthedoublestandardofvalue;thathewasveryanxioustodiscussthesesubjectswithleadingGermanauthorities;
  andthat,knowingtheprince’sinterestinthem,ithadseemedtomethathemightnotbesorrytomeetMr。
  Kellyforabriefinterview。TothisIreceivedaheartyresponse:``ByallmeansbringMr。Kellyoveratfouro’clock。’’Atfouro’clock,then,weappearedatthepalace,andwerereceivedimmediatelyandcordially。Whenwewereseatedtheprincesaid:``Iamverysorry;butthenewPrussianministryistomeethereintwentyminutes,andImustpresideoverit。’’Themeaningofthiswasclear,andtheconversationbeganatonce,Ieffacingmyselfinordertoenjoyitmorefully。Inafewsecondstheywereinthethickofthetariffquestion;and,asbothwerehighprotectionists,theygotalongadmirably。Soonrosethequestionofthedoublestandardincoinage;andonthis,too,theyagreed。Notablewasthedenunciationbythechancellorofthosewhodifferedfromhim;heseemedtofeelthat,ascaptainofthepoliticalforcesoftheempire,hewasentitledtotheallegianceofallhonestmembersofparliament,andonallquestions。Thediscussionranthroughvariousinterestingphases,when,noticingthatthemembersofthePrussianministryweregatheringinthenextroom,Irosetogo;whereupontheprince,whoseemedgreatlyinterestedbothinthepresentationofhisownviewsandthoseofMr。Kelly,said:``No,no;letthemwait。’’Thenewministersthereforewaited,theargumentonthetariffandthedoublestandardbeingmorevigorouslyprosecutedthanever。Afterfifteenortwentyminutesmore,Iroseagain;butBismarcksaid:
  ``No,no;there’snohurry;let’sgoandtakeawalk。’’