Butprecioustimewenton，andagaincametelegramsfromtheladiesthatnothingwasdone。AgainIwenttotheministertourgethematteruponhisattention;againheassumedthesamejellyfishcondition，pleasingbutevasive。ThenIrealizedthesituation;wentatoncetotheprefectofSt。Petersburg，GeneralvonWahl，althoughitwasnotstrictlywithinhisdomain;andhe，amanofcharacterandvigor，tookthenecessarymeasuresandtheladieswerereleased。
LikesomanyotherpersonswhomIhaveknownwhocameintoRussiaandweredelightedwithitduringtheirwholestay，theseladiesreturnedtoAmericamostbitterhatersoftheempireandofeverythingwithinit。
AstoVonWahl，whoseemedtomeoneoftheverybestRussianofficialsImet，hehassincemetrewardforhisqualities:fromtheCzaratransfertoaprovincialgovernorship，andfromtheanarchistsabulletwhich，thoughintendedtokillhim，onlywoundedhim。
ManywerethesufferersfromthisfeatureinRussianadministration——thisshirkingoflaborandresponsibility。AmongthesewasagentlemanbelongingtooneofthemosthonoredRussianfamilies，whowasgreatlydevotedtofruit—culture，andsoughttobringtheproductsofhislargeestatesinthesouthofRussiaintoMoscowandSt。Petersburg。Hetoldmethathehadtriedagainandagain，buttheofficialsshruggedtheirshouldersandwouldnottakethetrouble;thatfinallyhehadinducedthemtogivehimafreight—carandtobringaloadoffruittoSt。
Petersburgassoonaspossible;but，thoughthejourneyoughttohavetakenonlythreeorfourdays，itactuallytookseveralweeks;and，ofcourse，allthefruitwasspoiled。AsItoldhimofthefruit—trainswhichbringtheproductsofCaliforniaacrossourcontinentanddistributethemtotheAtlanticports，evenenablingthemtobefoundfreshinthemarketsofLondon，healmostshedtears。Thiswasanotherresultofstatecontrolofrailways。Asamatteroffact，thereisfarmoreandbetterfruittobeseenonthetablesofartisansinmostAmericantowns，howeversmall，thaninthelordliesthousesofMoscowandSt。
Petersburg;andthissolelybecauseinourcountryenergeticmenconducttransportationwithsomelittleambitiontowinpublicapprovalandpatronage，whileinRussiaahordeofstateofficialsshirklaborandcareasmuchaspossible。
Stillanothersuffererwasaveryenergeticmanwhohadheldsundryhighpositions，butwasevidentlymuchdiscouraged。Heshowedmespecimensofvariousrichoresfromdifferentpartsoftheempire，butlamentedthattherewasnoonetotakeholdoftheworkofbringingouttheseriches。Itwasperfectlyclearthatwiththeministeroftheinterioratthattime，asinsundryotherdepartments，thegreatquestionwas"hownottodoit。"
Evidentlythisministerandfunctionarieslikehimfeltthatifgreatenterprisesandindustrieswereencouraged，theywouldbecomesolargeastobedifficulttomanage;hence，thatitwouldbemorecomfortabletokeepthingswithinasmoderatecompassaspossible。
Tothiseasy—goingviewofpublicdutytherewereafewnotableexceptions。WhileDeWittewasthemosteminentofthese，therewasonewhohassincebecomesadlyrenowned，andwho，asIrevisetheselines，hasjustperishedbythehandofanassassin。ThisofficialwasDePlehve，who，duringmyacquaintancewithhim，wasonlyanundersecretaryintheinteriordepartment，butwastaking，apparently，alltheimportantdutiesfromhissuperior，M。Dournovo。AtvarioustimesImethimtodiscussthestatusofsundryAmericaninsurancecompaniesinRussia，andwasfavorablyimpressedbyhisinsight，vigor，andcourtesy。Itwas，therefore，asurprisetomewhen，onbecomingafullminister，hebloomedoutasamostbitter，cruel，andevidentlyshort—sightedreactionary。TheworldstoodamazedatthemurderouscrueltiesagainsttheJewsatKishineff，whichhemighteasilyhaveprevented;andnothingmorecruelorshort—sightedthanhisdealingswithFinlandhasbeenknownsinceLouisXIVrevokedtheEdictofNantes。Icanonlyexplainhiscoursebysupposingthathesoughttowinthefavorofthereactionaryfactionwhich，uptothepresenttime，hascontrolledtheCzar，andthustofighthiswaytowardthehighestpower。Hemadeofthemostloyalandhappypartoftheempirethemostdisloyalandwretched;hepittedhimselfagainstthepatriotism，thesenseofjustice，andallthehighestinterestsandsentimentsoftheFinnishpeople;
andhemethisdeathatthehandsofanavenger，who，indestroyingtheenemyofhiscountry，hasstruckafearfulblowathiscountry’shappiness。
WhileathoughtfulAmericanmustcondemnmuchwhichheseesinRussia，thereisonethingwhichhecannotbutadmireandcontrasttothedisadvantageofhisowncountry;andthisisthefactthatRussiasetsahighvalueuponitscitizenship。Itsvalue，whateveritmaybe，istheresultofcenturiesofstruggles，oflongoutpouringsofbloodandtreasure;andRussiansbelievethatithasbeenboughtattoogreatapriceandisineverywaytooprecioustobelavishedandhawkedaboutasathingofnovalue。Ontheotherhand，whenoneseeshowthecitizenshipoftheUnitedStates，whichoughttobeamillionfoldmorepreciousthanthatofRussia，isconferredlooselyupontensofthousandsofmenabsolutelyunfittoexerciseit，——whoseexerciseofitseems，attimes，likelytodestroyrepublicangovernment;whenoneseesthepowerofconferringitgrantedtotheleastrespectableclassofofficialsatthebehestofwardpoliticians，withoutpropersafeguardsandattimeswithoutanyregardtothelaws;whenoneseesitprostitutedbymenofthemostunfitclass，——and，indeed，ofthepredatoryclass，——whohaveleftEuropejustlongenoughtoobtainit，andthenleftAmericainordertoescapethedutiesbothoftheirnativeandtheiradoptedcountry，andtoavailthemselvesoftheprivilegesofbothcitizenshipswithoutonethoughtofthedutiesofeither，usingthemoftenincareersofscoundrelism，——onefeelsthatRussiaisnearerthetrueidealinthisrespectthanweare。
Asamatteroffact，thereiswithusnopettyjoint—stockcompanyinwhichaninterestisnotvirtuallyheldtobesuperiortothiscitizenshipofoursforwhichsuchsacrificeshavebeenmade，andforwhichsomanyofourbestmenhavelaiddowntheirlives。Nostockholderinthepettiestmanufacturingcompanydreamsofadmittingmentoshareinitunlesstheyshowtheirrealfitnesstobethusadmitted;butadmissiontoAmericancitizenshipissurroundedbynosuchsafeguards:ithasbeencheapenedandprostituteduntilmanywhoformerlyreveredithavecometoscoffatit。Fromthisevil，atleast，Russiaisfree。
CHAPTERXXXV
"ALLSORTSANDCONDITIONSOFMEN"INRUSSIA——1892—1894
Stillanotherdepartmentwhichinterestedmewasthatknownasthe"MinistryofPublicEnlightenment，"itsheadbeingCountDelyanoff。Hewascertainlyamanofculture;butthetitleofhisdepartmentwasamisnomer，foritsdutywasclearlytopreventenlightenmentinthepublicatlarge。TheRussiantheoryis，evidently，thatacertainsmallnumbershouldbeeducateduptoacertainpointforthedischargeoftheirspecialduties;butthat，beyondthis，anythinglikethegeneraleducationofthepeopleistobediscouraged;hencetheRussianpeasantisthemostignorantandhelplessinChristendom。
TherewasevidentlyadispositionamongverymanyofthemostardentRussianstomakeameritofthisimperfectcivilization，andtocultivatehatredforanypeoplewhomtheyclearlysawpossessinganythingbetter:henceitcamethat，justassomanyFrenchmenhateGreatBritain，andsomanyinthebackward，slipshodregionsofourcountryhateNewEngland，itwasquitethefashionamonglargeclassesofRussianstohateeverythingGerman，andespeciallytodetesttheBalticprovinces。
OneeveningduringmystayayoungRussianatasocialgatheringofmilitaryandotherofficialsvoicedthisfeelingbysaying，"I
hopethetimewillsooncomewhenweshallhaveclearedoutalltheseGermansfromtheRussianservice;theyarethecurseofthecountry。"ThereuponayoungAmericanpresent，whowasespeciallynotedforhisplainspeaking，immediatelyanswered，"Howareyougoingtodoit？Inoticethat，asarule，yourarelygiveapositionwhichreallyinvolveshighresponsibilitytoaRussian;
yougenerallygiveittoaGerman。WhentheEmperorgoestothemanoeuvers，doeshedaretrusthisimmediatesurroundingstoaRussian？Never;heintruststhemtoGeneralRichter，whoisaBaltic—ProvinceGerman。AndwhenhisMajestyishereintowndoeshedaretrusthispersonalsafetytoaRussian？Notatall;hereliesonVonWahl，prefectofSt。Petersburg，anotherGerman。"
Andsothisplain—spokenAmericanyouthwentonwithafullcatalogueofleadingBaltic—ProvinceGermansinpositionsofthehighestresponsibility，finallysaying，"YouknowaswellasI
thatifthesalvationoftheEmperordependedonanyoneofyou，andyoushouldcatchsightofaprettywoman，youwouldinstantlyforgetyoursovereignandrunafterher。"
RichterandVonWahlIknew，andtheywerecertainlymenwhomonecouldrespect，——thoughtful，earnest，devotedtoduty。WheneveronesawtheEmperoratareview，Richterwascloseathand;
whenevertheirMajestieswereattheopera，orinanypublicplace，therewasVonWahlwithhiseyesfasteneduponthem。
TheyoungAmericanmightnowaddthatwhenamanwasneededtodefendPortArthuranotherGermanwaschosen——Stoessel，whoseheroismthewholeworldisnowapplauding，asitonceapplaudedTodleben，thegeneralofGermanbirthwhocarriedofftheRussianlaurelsoftheCrimeanWar。
OneRussianofficialforwhomthereseemedtobedeepandwiderespectwasCountWoronzoff—Daschkoff;andIthinkthatourirrepressibleAmericanwouldhavemadeanexceptioninhisfavor。
CallinguponhimonedayregardingthedistributionofAmericanrelieftofamine—strickenpeasants，Iwasmuchimpressedbyhisstraightforwardhonesty:hewasgenerallycreditedwithstoppingthetime—honoredpilferingandplunderingattheWinterPalace。
OneofthemostinterestingofalltheRussiansImetwasGeneralAnnenkoff。Hisbrother—in—law，Struve，RussianministeratWashington，havinggivenmealettertohim，ourrelationsbecamesomewhatclose。Hehadgreatlydistinguishedhimselfbybuildingthetrans—Caucasianrailway，buthismainfeathadbeentheannexationofBokhara。Thestory，astoldmebyamemberofhisfamily，iscurious。Whilesuperintendinghisgreatforceofmenandpushingonthelayingoftherailsthroughthedesert，hisattentionwassuddenlycalledtosomehorsemeninthedistance，ridingtowardhimwithalltheirmight。OntheirarrivaltheirleaderwasdiscoveredtobeasonoftheAmeerofBokhara。Thatpotentatehavingjustdied，theothersonsweretryingtomaketheirwaytothethronebycuttingeachother’sthroats，butthisonehadthoughtitwisetofleetotheRussiansforsafety。
Annenkoffsawthepointatonce:withalargebodyofhiscavalryhestartedimmediatelyforBokhara，hisguestbyhisside;pushedhiswaythroughallobstacles;seatedtheyoungprinceonthethrone;andsomadehimaRussiansatrap。IshallspeaklaterofthevisitofthisprincetoSt。Petersburg。ItwasevidentthatAnnenkoff，duringmystay，wasnotinfavor。Itwassaidthathehadbeenintrustedwithlargeirrigation—worksinordertogiveemploymenttopeasantsduringthefamine，andthathehadnotmanagedthemwell;butitwasclearthatthiswasnotthemaindifficulty:hewasevidentlythoughttooprogressiveandliberal，andinthatseethingcaldronofintriguewhichcentersattheWinterPalacehisambitionshadcometogrief。
AnotherRussianwhointerestedmewasGlalkinWraskoy。Hewasdevoted，nightandday，toimprovingtheRussianprisonsystem。
Thattherewasmuchneedofsuchworkwascertain;butthefactthatthispersonageingovernmentemploywassodevotedtoimprovements，andhadcalledtogetherinRussiaaconventionofmeninterestedintheameliorationofprisonsystems，ledmetothinkthattheRussianGovernmentisnotsoutterlyandwilfullycruelinitsprisonarrangementsastheWesternworldhasbeenledtothink。
AnotherinterestingRussianwasCountOrloffDavidoff;andonmymeetinghim，justafterhisreturnfromtheChicagoExposition，atGeneralAnnenkoff’stable，heentertainedmewithhisexperiences。OnmyaskinghimwhatwasthemostamusingthinghehadseeninAmerica，heansweredthatitwasa"sacredconcert，"
onSunday，atachurchinColoradoSprings，inwhichthemusicofStrauss’swaltzesandOffenbach’scomicsongswereleadingfeatures，theaudiencetakingthemallverysolemnly。
IntheliterarydirectionIfoundPrinceJohnGalitzin’sreadingsfromFrenchdramasdelightful。Astohistoricalstudies，themostinterestingmanIfoundwasProfessorDemetrieff，whowasbroughttomyhousebyPobedonostzeff。IhadbeenreadingBillbassoff’s"LifeoftheEmpressCatherine";and，onmyaskingsomequestionsregardingit，theprofessorsaidthatatthedeathoftheEmpress，herson，theEmperorPaul，intrustedtheexaminationofherpaperstoRostopchine，who，ongoingthroughthem，foundacasketcontaininglettersandthelike，whichshehadevidentlyconsideredespeciallyprecious，andamongthesealetterfromOrloff，givingthedetailsofthemurderofherhusband，PeterIII，atRopscha。Theletter，insubstance，statedthatOrloffandhisassociates，havingattemptedtoseizePeter，whowasevidentlyonhiswaytoSt。PetersburgtoimprisontheEmpressCatherine，——ifnottoputhertodeath，——theEmperorhadresisted;andthatfinally，inthestruggle，hehadbeenkilled。
ProfessorDemetrieffthensaidthattheEmperorPaulshowedthesepaperstohissonsAlexanderandNicholas，whoafterwardsucceededhimonthethrone，andexpressedhisdevoutthankfulnessthatthekillingofPeterIIIwasnotintentional，andthereforethattheirgrandmotherwasnotamurderess。
Thisremindsmethat，atmyfirstvisittoSt。Petersburg，I
oftenpassed，duringmywalks，theoldpalaceofPaul，andthattherewasoneseriesofwindowscarefullybarred:thesebelongingtotheroomsinwhichtheEmperorPaulhimselfwasassassinatedinordertoprotectthelifeofhissonAlexanderandofthefamilygenerally。
AnotherRussian，PrinceSergeWolkonsky，wascertainlythemostversatilemanIhaveeverknown:aplaywright，anactor，anessayist，anorator，alecturer，andadmirableineachofthesecapacities。Atadinnergivenme，justbeforemydeparturefromSt。Petersburg，bytheRussianswhohadtakenpartintheChicagoExposition，IwassomewhattroubledbythefactthatthespeechesofthevariousofficialswereinRussian，andthat，asIsoimperfectlyunderstoodthem，Icouldnotknowwhatlinetotakewhenmyownspeechcame;butpresentlythechairman，MinisterDelyanoff，calleduponyoungPrinceSerge，whocameforwardverymodestlyand，inadmirableEnglish，gaveasummaryofthewholeseriesofRussianspeechesformybenefit，concludingwithanexcellentspeechofhisown。HisspeechesandaddressesatChicagowerereallyremarkable;and，whenherevisitedAmerica，hislecturesonRussianliteratureatCornellUniversity，atWashington，andelsewhere，wereworthyoftheCollegedeFrance。
Thisyoungmancouldspeakfluentlyandidiomatically，notonlyhisownlanguage，butEnglish，French，German，Italian，andI
knownothowmanyothertongues。
TomeetscientificmenofnotemywontwastovisittheLatinQuarter;andthere，atthehouseofProfessorWoeikoffofSt。
PetersburgUniversity，Imet，atvarioustimes，aconsiderablebodyofthosebestworthknowing。OneofthosewhomadeanespeciallystrongimpressionuponmewasAdmiralMakharoff。
RecentlyhascomenewsofhisdeathwhilecommandingtheRussianfleetatPortArthur——hisflag—ship，withnearlyallonboard，sunkbyatorpedo。Atcourt，intheuniversityquarter，andlateratWashington，Imethimoften，andratedhimamongthehalf—dozenbestRussiansIeverknew。HavingwonfameasavigorousandskilfulcommanderintheTurkishwar，hewasdevotinghimselftothescientificsideofhisprofession。Hehadmadeasuccessofhiscolossalice—breakerinvariousnorthernwaters，andwasnowgivinghismainthoughtstothemappingout，onanimmensescale，ofalltheoceans，asregardswindsandcurrents。Asexplainedbyhim，withquietenthusiasm，itseemedlikelytobeoneofthegreatesttriumphsoftheinductivemethodsinceLordBacon。WithSenatorSemenoffandPrinceGregoryGalitzinIhadveryinterestingtalksontheirAsiatictravels，andwasgreatlyimpressedbythesimplicityandstrengthofMendeleieff，whoiscertainlyto—dayoneoftwoorthreeforemostlivingauthoritiesinchemistry。Althoughmenofscience，unlesstheyholdhighofficialpositions，arenottobeseenatcourt，I
wasgladtofindthatthereweresomeRussiannobleswhoappreciatedthem;andanadmirableexampleofthiswasonceshownatmyownhouse。Itwasatadinner，whentherewaspresentayoungRussianofveryhighlineage;andIwasingreatdoubtastothequestionofprecedence，thisbeingamatterofgraveimportunderthecircumstances。Atlastmywifewenttothenoblemanhimselfandaskedhimfranklyregardingit。Hisanswerdidhimcredit:hesaid，"IshouldbeashamedtotakeprecedencehereofamanlikeMendeleieff，whoisanhonortoRussiaintheeyesofthewholeworld;andIearnestlyhopethathemaybegiventhefirstplace。"
TherewerealsovariousinterestingwomeninSt。Petersburgsociety，thereceptionafternoonsoftwoofthembeingespeciallyattractive:theywere，indeed，inthenatureoftheFrenchsalonsundertheoldregime。
Oneoftheseladies——thePrincessWolkonsky——seemedtointerestallmennotabsorbedinfutilities;andtheresultwasthatoneheardatherhousethebestmeninSt。Petersburgdiscussingthemostinterestingquestions。
TheotherwastheAustrianambassadress，CountessWolkenstein，whomIhadslightlyknown，yearsbefore，asCountessSchleinitz，wifeoftheministeroftheroyalhouseholdatBerlin。Onherafternoonsoneheardthebesttalkbythemostinterestingmen;
anditwasatthesalonsofthesetwoladiesthattheretookplacetheconversationswhichIhaverecordedinmy"HistoryoftheWarfareofScience，"showingthedevelopmentofalegendregardingthemiraculouscureoftheArchbishopofSt。PetersburgbyFatherIvanofCronstadt。
AnotherplacewhichespeciallyattractedmewasthehouseofGeneralIgnatieff，formerlyambassadoratConstantinople，where，onaccountofhisallegedwantofscruplesinbringingonthewarwithRussia，hereceivedthenickname"MentirPasha。"HiswifewasthedaughterofKoutousoff，themainRussianopponentofNapoleonin1812;andheraccountsofRussiainherearlierdaysandofherlifeinConstantinoplewereattimesfascinating。
Iremembermeetingatherhouse，ononeoccasion，thePrincessOurousoff，whotoldmethattheEmperorAlexanderhadsaidtoher，"IwishthateveryonecouldseeSardou’splay’Thermidor’
anddiscoverwhatrevolutionreallyis";andthatshehadanswered，"Revolutionsarepreparedlongbeforetheybreakout。"
Thatstruckmeasaverysalutarybitofphilosophy，whicheveryRussianmonarchwoulddowelltoponder。
TheyoungPrincessRadzivillwasalsoespeciallyattractive。InoneofherroomshungaportraitofBalzac，takenjustafterdeath，anditwasmoststriking。Thisledhertogivemeveryinterestingaccountsofheraunt，MadamedeHanska，towhomBalzacwrotehisfamousletters，andwhomhefinallymarried。I
metatherhouseanotherladyofhighdegree，towhommyoriginalintroductionhadbeensomewhatcurious。DroppinginoneafternoonatthehouseofHenryHoward，theBritishfirstsecretary，Imetinthecrowdalargelady，simplydressed，whomIhadneverseenbefore。Beingpresentedtoher，andnothappeningtocatchhername，Istilltalkedon，andfoundthatshehadtraveled，firstinAustralia，theninCalifornia，thenceacrossourcontinenttoNewYork;andheraccountsofwhatshehadseeninterestedmegreatly。ButsomelittletimeafterwardImetheragainatthehouseofPrincessRadzivill，andthenfoundthatshewastheEnglishDuchessofBuckingham。OnedayIhadbeentalkingwiththePrincessandherguestonthetreasuresoftheImperialLibrary，andespeciallythewonderfulcollectionofautographs，amongthemthecopy—bookofLouisXIVwhenachild，whichshowedthepainstakentomakehimunderstand，eveninhisboyhood，thathewasanirresponsibleautocrat。Ononeofitspagesthelinetobecopiedranasfollows:
L’hommageestduauxRoys，ilsfontcequ’illeurplaist。——LOUIS。
Underthisthebuddingmonarchhadwrittenthesamewordssixtimes，withchildishcaretokeepthestrokesstraightandthespacesregular。Myaccountofthishavingledtheprincesstoaskmetotakeherandherfriendtothelibraryandtoshowthemsomeofthesethings，Igladlyagreed，wrotethedirector，securedanappointmentforacertainafternoon，andwhenthetimecamecalledfortheladies。Butacuriouscontretempsarose。I
hadmet，thedaybefore，twobrightAmericanladies，andontheiraskingmeaboutthethingsbestworthseeing，IhadespeciallyrecommendedthemtovisittheImperialLibrary。Onarrivingatthedoorwiththeprincessandtheduchess，Iwassurprisedtofindthatnopreparationshadbeenmadetomeetus，——infact，thatourcomingseemedtobeamatterofsurprise;andaconsiderabletimeelapsedbeforethedirectorandotherofficialscametous。ThenIlearnedwhatthedifficultywas。ThetwoAmericanladies，inperfectlygoodfaith，hadvisitedthelibraryafewhoursbefore;and，ontheirsayingthattheAmericanministerhadrecommendedthemtocome，ithadbeentakenforgrantedatoncethatTHEYweretheprincessandtheduchess，andtheyhadbeenshowneverythingwithalmostregalhonors，theofficialsneverdiscoveringthemistakeuntilourarrival。
TheAmericancolonyatSt。Petersburgwasverysmall。Interestingcompatriotscamefromtimetotimeonvariouserrands，andIwasgladtoseethem;butonewhosevisitsweremostheartilywelcomedwasaformerconsul，Mr。Prince，anoriginal，shrewd"down—easter，"andhisreminiscencesofsomeofmypredecessorswerefullofinteresttome。
Oneespeciallydwellsinmymind。IthadreferencetoaformersenatoroftheUnitedStateswho，abouttheyear1840，wassenttoRussiaasminister。Therewerevariousevidencesinthearchivesofthelegationthatsobrietywasnotthisgentleman’sespecialvirtue，andamongthemverymanycopiesofnotesinwhichtheminister，throughthesecretaryoflegation，excusedhimselffromkeepingengagementsattheForeignOfficeonthegroundof"suddenindisposition。"
Mr。Princetoldmethatonedaythisminister’svalet，whowasanIrishman，cametotheconsulateandsaid:"Oi’llnotstaywidhisigsillincyannylonger;Oi’vedonewidhim。"
"What’sthetroublenow？’saidMr。Prince。
"Well，"saidtheman，"thismorningOithoughtitwastoimetogethisigsillincyoutofbed，forhehadbeendhrunkaboutaweekandinbedmostofthetoime;andsoOiwenttohim，andsaysOi，gentle—loike，’Wouldyourigsillincyhaveacupofcoffee？’whinheroseupandshtruckmeintheface。OnthatOitookhimbythecollar，liftedhimoutofbed，tookhimacrasstheroom，showedhimhisuglyfaceintheglass，andOisaidtohim，saysOi，’Isthimtheeyesofaninvoyextraorr—rrdinarryandministherplinipotentiarry？’"
Amonginterestingremindersofmypredecessorswasaletterinthearchives，writtenabouttheyear1832byMr。Buchanan，afterwardsenator，ministerinLondon，SecretaryofState，andPresidentoftheUnitedStates。Itwasafriendlymissivetoanofficialpersonageinourcountry，andwentonsomewhatasfollows:"Ifeelalmostashamedtotellyouthatyourletterstome，minetoyou，and，indeed，everythingthathascomeandgonebetweenusbymail，hasbeenreadbyothereyesthanours。Thiswastrueofyourlastlettertome，and，withoutdoubt，itwillbetrueofthisletter。Canyouimagineit？Thinkofthemoralturpitudeofacreatureemployedtobreakopenprivatelettersandtoreadthem！Canyouimagineworkmoredegrading？Whatadirtydoghemustbe！howdespicable，indeed，hemustseemtohimself！"AndsoMr。Buchananwentonuntilhewoundupasfollows:"Notonlydoesthispersonreadprivateletters，butheisaforger:heforgesseals，andIregrettosaythathisimitationoftheeagleonourlegationsealisaVERYSORRY
BIRD。"WhetherthisdosehadanysalutaryeffectontheofficialconcernedIneverlearned。
ThetroublesofanAmericanrepresentativeatSt。Petersburgaremany，andtheygenerallybeginwiththesearchforanapartment。
Itisverydifficultindeedinthatcapitaltofindaproperlyfurnishedsuiteofroomsforaminister，andsincetheAmericanrepresentativehasbeenmadeanambassadorthisdifficultyisgreaterthanever。Inmyowncase，byespecialluckandlargeoutlay，Iwasabletosurmountit;butmanyothershadnotbeensofortunate，andtheresulthadgenerallybeenthat，whereasnearlyeveryotherpowerownedorheldonlongleaseahouseorapartmentforitsrepresentative，——simple，decent，dignified，andknowntotheentirecity，——theAmericanrepresentativehadlivedwherevercircumstancescompelledhim:——sometimesontheground—floorandsometimesinasky—parlor，withthenaturalresultthatRussianscouldhardlyregardtheAmericanLegationasonthesamefootingwiththatofothercountries。
AsIwrite，wordcomesthatthepresentambassadorhasbeenunabletofindsuitablequarterssaveatarenthigherthanhisentiresalary;thattheproprietorshavecombined，andagreedtostandbyeachotherinholdingtheirapartmentsatanenormousfigure，theirunderstandingbeingthatAmericansarerichandcanbemadetopayanypricedemanded。Nothingcanbemoreshort—sightedthanthepolicyofourgovernmentinthisrespect，andIshalltouchuponitagain。
ThediplomaticquestionsbetweentheUnitedStatesandRussiaweremanyandtroublesome;for，inadditiontothatregardingtheBehringSeafisheries，therewererequiredadditionalinterpretationsoftheBuchanantreatyastotherightsofAmericanstoholdrealestateandtodobusinessinRussia;
arrangementsfortheparticipationofRussiansintheChicagoExposition;theprotectionofvariousAmericancitizensofRussianbirth，andespeciallyofIsraeliteswhohadreturnedtoRussia;careforthegreatAmericanlife—insuranceinterestsintheempire;theadjustmentofquestionsarisingoutofRussianreligiousrelationswithAlaskaandtheislandsoftheNorthernPacific;andlast，butnotleast，thecompletionoftheextraditiontreatybetweenthetwonationsbytheincorporationofsafeguardswhichwouldpreventitsuseagainstpurelypoliticaloffenders。
EspecialattentiontoIsraelitecaseswasalsorequired。Someoftheseexcitedmydeepsympathy;and，havingmadeaverycarefulstudyofthesubject，IwrotetoSecretaryGreshamadespatchuponitinobediencetohisspecialrequest。ItwasthelongestdespatchIhaveeverwritten;and，inmyapologytothesecretaryforitslengthIstatedthatitwaspreparedwithnoexpectationthathewouldfindtimetoreadit，butwiththeideathatitmightbeofuseattheStateDepartmentforreference。InduetimeIreceivedaverykindanswerstatingthathehadreadeverywordofit，andthankedmemostheartilyfor——it。Thewholesubjectisexceedinglydifficult;butitisclearthatRussiahasmade，andismaking，afearfulmistakeinherwayofdealingwithit。TherearemoreIsraelitesinRussiathaninalltheremainderoftheworld;andtheyarecrowdedtogether，undermostexasperatingregulations，inanarrowdistrictjustinsideherwesternfrontier，mainlyextendingthroughwhatwasformerlyPoland，withtheresultthatfanaticism——ChristianononesideandJewishontheother——hasdevelopedenormously。TheTalmudicrabbisarethereattheirworst;andtheconsequencesareevil，notonlyforRussia，butforourowncountry。Theimmigrationwhichcomestousfromtheseregionsisamongtheveryworstthatwereceivefromanypartoftheworld。Itis，infact，animmigrationoftheunfittest;and，althoughnobleeffortshavebeenmadebypatrioticIsraelitesintheUnitedStatestomeetthedifficulty，theresultshavebeenfarfromsatisfactory。
Therewere，ofcourse，theusualadventurousAmericansinpoliticaldifficulties，enterprisingAmericansinbusinessdifficulties，andpretendedAmericansattemptingtosecureimmunityundertheStarsandStripes。ThesameingeniouseffortstoprostituteAmericancitizenshipwhichIhadseenduringmyformerstayinGermanywerejustasconstantinRussia。Itwasthesameoldstory。EmigrantsfromtheRussianEmpire，mostofthemextremelyundesirable，hadgonetotheUnitedStates;stayedjustlongenoughtosecurenaturalization，——had，indeed，insomecasessecureditfraudulentlybeforetheyhadstayedthefulltime;andthen，havingreturnedtoRussia，weretryingtoexercisetherightsandevadethedutiesofbothcountries。
Manyofthesecaseswereexceedinglyvexatious;andso，indeed，weresomewhichwerebetterfounded。ThegreatdifficultyofarepresentativeoftheUnitedStatesinRussiais，first，thatthelawoftheempireissocomplicatedthat，——tousethewordsofKingJamesregardingBacon’s"NovumOrganum，"——"LikethePeaceofGod，itpassethallunderstanding。"Itismadeupofcodesinpartobsoleteorobsolescent;ukasesandcounter—ukases;imperialdirectionsandcounter—directions;ministerialordersandcounter—orders;policeregulationsandcounter—regulations;withnoendofsuspensions，modifications，andexceptions。
TheseconddifficultyisthefactthattheBuchanantreatyof1832，whichguaranteed，apparently，everythingdesirabletoAmericancitizenssojourningintheempire，hasbeengraduallyconstruedawayuntilitstatteredremnantsarepracticallyworthless。Astheworldhasdiscovered，Russia’sstrongpointisnotadherencetohertreatypromises。
InthisrespectthereisagreatdifferencebetweenRussiaandGermany。Withthelatterwehavemadecarefultreaties，thelawsarewellknown，andtheAmericanrepresentativefeelssolidgroundbeneathhisfeet;butinRussiathereispracticallynothingofthekind，andtherepresentativemustrelyonthemainprinciplesofinternationallaw，commonsense，andhisownpowersofpersuasion。
ApeculiardutyduringmylaststayinSt。Petersburgwastowatchtheapproachofcholera，especiallyonthePersianfrontier。Admirableprecautionshadbeentakenforsecuringtelegraphicinformation;andeverydayIreceivednoticesfromtheForeignOfficeasaresult，whichIcommunicatedtoWashington。ForagesRussiahadreliedonfetishesofvariouskindstopreserveherfromgreatepidemics;butatlastherleadingofficialshadcometorealizethenecessityofapplyingmodernsciencetotheproblem，andtheydidthiswell。Inthecity"sanitarycolumns"wereestablished，madeupofsmallsquadsofofficialsrepresentingthemedicalandengineeringprofessionsandthepolice;thesevisitedeverynookandcornerofthetown，and，havingextraordinarypowersfortheemergency，compelledeventhemostdirtypeopletokeeptheirpremisesclean。
Excellenthospitalsandlaboratorieswereestablished，andoftheseIlearnedmuchfromaformerCornellstudentwhoheldanimportantpositioninoneofthem。ComingtotownthreeorfourtimesaweekfrommysummercottageinFinland，IwasstruckbytheprecautionsontheFinnishandotherrailways:noticesofwhatwastobedonetopreventcholeraandtomeetitwereposted，insixdifferentlanguages;disinfectantsweremadeeasilyaccessible;theseatsandhangingsintherailway—carswerecoveredwithleatherclothfrequentlywashedwithdisinfectants;andtothemaintrainsahospital—carwasattached，whileatemporaryhospital，wellequipped，wasestablishedateachmainstation。Inspiteofthis，thenumberofcholerapatientsatSt。PetersburginthemiddleofJulyrosetoaveryhighfigure，andthenumberofdeathseachdayfromcholerawasaboutonehundred。
OfthesevictimsthemosteminentwasTschaikovsky，thecomposer，amanofgeniusandamostcharmingcharacter，towhomMr。AndrewCarnegiehadintroducedmeatNewYork。Oneeveningatadinner—partyhepouredoutagobletofwaterfromadecanteronthetable，drankitdown，andnextdaywasdeadfromAsiaticcholera。But，withthisexception，thepatientswere，sofarasI
learned，almostentirelyfromthepeasantclass。Althoughboiledwaterwassuppliedfordrinkingpurposes，andsomepublic—spiritedindividualswentsofarastosetoutsamovarsandthemeansofsupplyinghotteatopeasantworkmen，theanswerofoneofthemuzhiks，whentoldthatheoughttodrinkboiledwater，indicatedthepeasantview:"IfGodhadwishedustodrinkhotwater，hewouldhaveheatedtheNeva。"
CHAPTERXXXVI
MYRECOLLECTIONSOFPOBEDONOSTZEFF——1892—1894
OnarrivingatSt。Petersburgin1892totakechargeoftheAmericanlegation，therewasoneRussianwhomImoredesiredtomeetthananyother——ConstantinePobedonostzeff。ForsomeyearsvariousEnglishandAmericanreviewshadbeencharginghimwithbigotry，cruelty，hypocrisy，and，indeed，withnearlyeveryhatefulformofpoliticalcrime;butthefactremainedthatunderAlexanderIIIhewasthemostinfluentialpersonageintheempire，andthat，thoughbearingthetitleof"procurator—generaloftheMostHolySynod，"hewasevidentlynolesspowerfulincivilthaninecclesiasticalaffairs。
Astohishistory，itwasunderstoodtobeasfollows:WhentheGrandDukeNicholas，theeldestsonofAlexanderII，——ayoungmanofgentlecharacteristics，greatlyresemblinghisfather，——diedupontheRiviera，thenextheirtothethronewashisbrotherAlexander，astalwart，taciturnguardsman，respectedbyallwhoknewhimforhonestyanddirectness，butwho，havingneverlookedforwardtothethrone，hadbeenbroughtupsimplyasasoldier，withfewofthegiftsandgracestraditionalamongtheheirsoftheRussianmonarchysincethedaysofCatherine。