Themainhospitalities，sofarastheEmperorandEmpresswereconcerned，werethegreatfestivitiesattheWinterPalace，beginningontheRussianNewYear’sday，whichwastwelvedayslaterthanours。Thescenewasmostbrilliant。Thevasthallswerefilledwithcivilandmilitaryofficialsfromallpartsoftheempire，inthemostgorgeouscostumes，anespeciallystrikingeffectbeingproducedbythecaftans，orlongcoats，ofthevariousCossackregiments，thearmorandhelmetsoftheImperialGuards，andtheoldRussiancostumesoftheladies。Allofthelatter，onthisoccasion，fromtheEmpressdown，worethesecostumes:therewasgreatvarietyinthese;buttheirmainfeatureswerethekakoshniks，orornamentalcrowns，andthetunicsinbrightcolors。
ThenextofthesegreatceremoniesattheWinterPalacewastheblessingofthewatersuponthe8thofJanuary。ThediplomaticcorpsandotherguestswereallowedtotaketheirplacesatthepalacewindowslookingoutovertheNeva，andthencecouldseetheentireprocession，which，havinggonedowntheambassadors’
staircase，appearedatatemplewhichhadbeenerectedoveranopeningintheiceoftheriver。TheEmperor，thegranddukes，andtheArchbishopofSt。Petersburg，withhissuffraganbishops，alltookpartinthisceremonial;andthemusic，whichwasselectedfromtheanthemsofBortniansky，wasverysolemnandimpressive。
Duringthewintercamecourtballs，and，aboveall，the"palmballs。"Thelatterwere，inpointofbrilliancy，probablybeyondanythinginanycourtofmoderntimes。Afterareception，duringwhichtheEmperorandEmpresspassedalongthediplomaticcircle，speakingtothevariousmembers，dancingbegan，andwascontinueduntilaboutmidnight;thenthedoorswereflungopenintoothervasthalls，whichhadbeenchangedintopalm—groves。Thepalmsforthispurposeareverylargeandbeautiful，fourseriesofthembeingkeptintheconservatoriesforthisspecialpurpose，eachseriesbeingusedonewinterandthenallowedtorestforthreewintersbeforeitisbroughtoutagain。Underthesepalmsthesupper—tablesareplaced，andfromfifteenhundredtotwothousandpeoplesitattheseastheguestsoftheCzarandCzarina。Theseentertainmentsseemcarriedtotheextremeofluxury，theironlydefectbeingtheirsplendidmonotony:onlycivil，military，anddiplomaticofficialsarepresent，andanew—comerfindsmuchdifficultyinrememberingtheirnames。TherearesaidtobefourhundredPrincesGalitzinintheempire，andI
personallyknewthreeCountsTolstoiwhodidnotknoweachother;
butthegreatdrawbackisthefactthatalltheseentertainmentsareexactlyalike，alwaysthesamething:merelycivilandmilitaryfunctionariesandtheirfamilies;andforstrangersnooccupationsavetodance，playcards，talkfutilities，orsimplystare。
TheBerlincourt，thoughbynomeanssobrilliantatfirstsightandfarsmaller，——sincethemostIeversawinanygatheringintheImperialSchlossattheGermancapitalwasaboutfifteenhundred，——wasreallymuchmoreattractive，itsgreaterinterestarisingfromthepresenceofpersonsdistinguishedineveryfield。WhileatSt。Petersburgonemeetsonlycivilandmilitaryfunctionaries，atBerlinonemeetsnotonlythese，butthemostprominentmeninpolitics，science，literature，art，andthehigherrangesofagriculture，commerce，andmanufacture。AtSt。
Petersburg，whenIwishedtomeetsuchmen，whoaddedtothepeacefulgloriesoftheempire，Iwenttotheirhousesintheuniversityquarter;atBerlinImetthemalsoatcourt。
Astocourtepisodesduringmystay，oneespeciallydwellsinmymemory。Onarrivingratherearlyoneevening，Inoticedalarge，portlyman，wearingthebroadredribbonoftheLegionofHonor，andatoncesawthathecouldbenootherthanPrinceVictorNapoleon，theBonaparteheirtothecrownofFrance。ThoughhewasfarlargerthanthegreatNapoleon，andhadtheeyesofhismother，PrincessClothilde，hislikenesstohisfather，PrinceNapoleon（"Plon—Plon"），whomIhadseenyearsbeforeatParis，wasverymarked。Presentlyhisbrother，whohadjustarrivedfromhisregimentintheCaucasus，cameupandbeganconversationwithhim。Bothseemedgreatlyvexedatsomething。OnthearrivaloftheItalianambassador，henaturallywentupandspoketotheprince，whowasthegrandsonofKingVictorEmmanuel;butthecuriousthingwasthattheFrenchambassador，CountdeMontebello，andtheprinceabsolutelycuteachother。Neitherseemedtohavetheremotestideathattheotherwasintheroom，andthisinspiteofthefactthattheMontebellosaredescendedfromJeanLannes，thestable—boywhomNapoleonmadeamarshalofFranceandDukeofMontebello，thusfoundingthefamilytowhichtheFrenchambassadorbelonged。TheshowofcoolnessonthepartoftheimperialfamilyevidentlyvexedtheFrenchpretender。Hewas，indeed，allowedtoentertheroombehindtheimperialtrain;
buthewasnotpermittedtositattheimperialtable，beingrelegatedtoadistantandverymodestseat。Iwasinformedthat，thoughtheEmperorcould，anddid，havetheprincetodinewithhiminprivate，hefeltobliged，inviewoftherelationsbetweenRussiaandtheFrenchRepublic，tocarefullyavoidanyspecialrecognitionofhiminpublic。
AfarmorebrilliantvisitorwastheAmeerofBokhara。IhavealreadyspokenofthewayinwhichhewasplaceduponthethronebyGeneralAnnenkof。HenowcametovisittheCzarashissuzerain，andwithhimcamehiseldestsonandanumberofhisgreatmen。Thesatraphimselfwasasingularcombinationofsplendorandstoicism，wearingagorgeousdresscoveredwithenormousjewels，andobservingthebrilliantscenesabouthimwithhardlyeveraword。EvenwhenhetookhisplaceatthetablebesidetheEmpresshewasveryuncommunicative。Facingtheimperialtablesathisgreatmen;andtheirembarrassmentwasevident，onespecialsourceofitbeingclearlytheirsmallacquaintancewithEuropeantableutensils。TheAmeerbroughttoSt。Petersburgsplendidpresentsofgoldandjewels，aftertheOrientalfashion，andalsotheheirtohisthrone，whomheleftasasortofhostagetobeeducatedatthecapital。
AneminentRussianwhowasinverycloserelationswiththeAmeergavemesomeaccountofthisyoungman。Althoughhewasthenperhapsfourteenorfifteenyearsofage，hewas，asregardsconduct，amerebaby，burstingoutintoloudboohooingthefirsttimehewaspresentedtotheEmperor，andshowinghimselfveryimmatureinvariousways。Curiouslyenough，whenhewastakentothecadetschoolhewasfoundtobeunabletowalkforanyconsiderabledistance。Hehadalwaysbeenmadetosquatandbecarried，andthefirstthingtobedonetowardmakinghimaRussianofficerwastotrainhiminusinghislegs。Hetookanespecialfancytobicycles:intheparkattachedtothecadetschoolhebecameveryproficientintheuseofthem;and，returningtoBokharaathisfirstvacation，hetookwithhim，notonlyabicycleforhimself，butanotherforhisbrother。Shortlyafterhishome—coming，theAmeerandcourtbeingassembled，hegaveadisplayofhispowers;but，tohisgreatmortification，theAmeerwasdisgusted:theideathattheheirtothethroneshouldbeseenworkinghiswayinthisfashionwascontrarytoalltheideasofthatpotentate，andheorderedthebicyclestobeatoncedestroyed。Butontheyoungman’sreturntoSt。
Petersburgheboughtanother;resumedhisexercisesuponit;andwill，nodoubt，whenhecomestothethrone，introducethatformoflocomotionintotheMohammedanregionsofNorthernAsia。
Amongthegreaterdisplaysofmyfinalyearwereaweddingandafuneral。TheformerwasthatoftheEmperor’seldestdaughter，theGrandDuchessXenia，atPeterhof。Itwasverybrilliant，andwasconductedaftertheusualRussianfashion，itsmostcuriousfeaturesbeingtheleadingofthecoupleaboutthealtarandtheirdrinkingoutofthesamecup。
Comingfromtheceremonyinthechapel，weofthediplomaticcorpsfoundourselves，atthefootofthegreatstaircase，inacrush。Butjustatthesidewasalargedoorofplate—glassopeninguponanoutergallerycommunicatingwithotherpartsofthepalace;andstandingguardatthisdoorwasoneofthe"Nubians"whomIhadnoticed，fromtimetotime，attheWinterPalace——anenormouscreature，veryblack，veryglossy，withthemostbrilliantcostumepossible。Ihadheardmuchofthese"Nubians，"andhadbeengiventounderstandthattheyhadbeenbroughtfromCentralAfricabyspecialcommand。Atgreatassemblagesintheimperialpalaces，justbeforethedoorswereflungopenfortheentranceoftheMajestiesandtheircortege，twogreatblackhandswerealwaystobeseenputthroughthedoors，readytoopentheminaninstant——thehandsoftwoofthese"Nubians。"Ihadbuiltupinmymindquiteastructureofromanceregardingthem，andnowfoundmyselfinthecrushatthefootofthegrandstaircasenearoneofthem。AsIlookedupathimhesaidtome，withdeferentialcompassion，"Ifyouplease，sah，wouldn’tyouliketogitoutofdecrowd，sah，throughdisyeredoah？"Byhisdialecthewasevidentlyoneofmyowncompatriots，and，thoughinasortofdazeatthisdiscovery，I
mechanicallyacceptedhisinvitation;whereuponheopenedthedoor，letusthrough，andkeptbackthecrowd。
Splendid，too，initsway，wasthefuneraloftheGrandDuchessCatherineattheFortressChurch。Itwasveryimpressive，almostasmuchsoasthefuneraloftheEmperorNicholas，whichIhadattendedatthesameplacenearlyfortyyearsbefore。TheEmperorAlexanderIII，withhisbrothers，hadfollowedthehearseandcoffinonfoot，andhisMajestywasevidentlygreatlyfatigued。
Soonheretiredtotakerest，andthenitwasthatwebegantohavethefirstsuspicionofhisfatalillness。Uptothattimetherehadbeenskepticism。Veryfewhadthoughtitpossiblethatamanofsuchgiantframeandstrengthcouldbeseriouslyill，butnowtherecouldbenodoubtofit。Standingnearhim，I
noticedhispallorandevidentfatigue，andwasnotsurprisedthathetwicelefttheplace，inorder，evidently，tosecurerest。Therewasneedofit。IntheRussianChurchtheruleisthatallmuststand，andallofusstoodfromaboutteninthemorninguntilhalf—pastoneintheafternoon;buttwohighofficialscoveredwithgoldlaceandorders，bearingtapersbythesideofthegrandduchess’scoffin，toppledoverfromexhaustionandwereremoved。
Astootherspectacles，oneofthemostsplendidwasthemidnightmassonEastereve。AtmyformervisitIhadseenthisattheKazanChurch;nowwewenttotheCathedralofSt。Isaac。Theceremonywasbrilliantalmostbeyondconception，asintheolddays;themusicwasheavenly;and，astheclocksstrucktwelve，thecannonsofthefortressofPeterandPaulboomedforth，allthebellsofthecitybeganchiming，andalight，appearingattheextremeendofthechurch，seemedtoruninalldirectionsthroughthevastassemblage，andpresentlyallseemedablaze。
Everypersoninthechurchwasholdingataper，andwithinafewmomentsallofthesehadbeenlighted。
MostbeautifulofallwasthemusicatanotheroftheseEasterceremonies，whenthechoristers，robedinwhite，cameforthfromthesanctuaryandsanghymnsbythesideoftheemptysepulcherunderthedome。
ThesingingbythechoirsinRussiais，inmanyrespects，morebeautifulthansimilarmusicinanyotherpartoftheworld，savethatofthecathedralchoirofBerlinatitsbest。IhaveheardtheSistine，Pauline，andLateranchoirsatRome;andtheyarecertainlyfarinferiortotheseRussiansingers。Noinstrumentalmusicisallowedandnovoicesofwomen。Thechoristersaremenandboys。ThereareseveralfinechoirsinSt。Petersburg，butthreearefamous:thatoftheEmperorattheWinterPalaceChapel，thatoftheArchbishopattheCathedralofSt。Isaac，andthatoftheNevskiMonastery。Occasionallytherewereconcertswhenallwerecombined，andnothinginitswaycouldbemoreperfect。
Operaticmusicalsoreceivescarefulattention。EnormoussubsidiesaregiventosecuretheprincipalsingersofEuropeattheItalian，French，andGermantheaters;butthemostlavishoutlayisuponthenationalopera:itisconsideredamatterofpatriotismtomaintainitatthehighestpointpossible。TheRussianOperaHouseisanenormousstructure，andthefinestpiecewhichIsawgiventherewasGlinka’s"LifefortheCzar。"
BeingwrittenbyaRussian，onapatrioticsubject，andfromanultra—loyalpointofview，everythinghadbeendonetomountitinthemostsuperbwaypossible:neverhaveIseenmorewonderfulsceniceffects，thewholeculminatinginthereturnofoneoftheoldfightingczarstotheKremlinafterhisstrugglewiththePoles。Thestagewasenormousandtheprocessionmagnificent。Thepersonagesinitwerethecounterparts，asregardeddress，ofthepersonstheyrepresented，exactcopieshavingbeenmadeoftherobesandornamentsoftheoldMuscoviteboyards，aspreservedintheKremlinMuseum;andatthecloseofthisprocessioncamealonglineofhorses，inthemostsuperbtrappingsimaginable，attendedbyguardsandoutridersinliveriesofbarbaricsplendor，andfinallytheimperialcoach。WewereenabledtocatchsightoftheCossackguardsonthefrontofit，when，justasthebodyofthecoachwascomingintoview，downcamethecurtain。Thiswastheresultofacuriousprohibition，enforcedinalltheatersinRussia:onnoaccountisitpermittedtorepresentthesacredpersonofanyemperoruponthestage。
Astoothermusic，verygoodconcertswereoccasionallygiven，themusiciansbeinggenerallyfromWesternEurope。
Verypleasantweresundryexcursions，especiallyduringthelongsummertwilight;andamongthesewereserenadepartiesgivenbyvariousmembersofthediplomaticcorps。Inatrimsteam—yacht，andcarryingsingerswithus，wesailedamongtheislandsinthemidnighthours，stopping，fromtimetotime，togreetfriendsoccupyingcottagesthere。
Astoexcursionsintheempire，Ihavealreadygiven，inmychapteronTolstoi，someaccountofmysecondvisittoMoscow;
andamorecompleteaccountisreservedforachapteron"SundryExcursionsandExperiences。"Thesamemaybesaid，also，regardinganexcursiontaken，duringoneofmyvacations，inSweden，Norway，andDenmark。
In1893，anewadministrationhavingbroughtintopowerthepartyopposedtomyown，ItenderedtoPresidentClevelandmyresignation，and，inthefullexpectationthatitwouldbeaccepted，gaveupmyapartment;butas，insteadofanacceptance，therecameaverykindindicationofthePresident’sconfidence，good—will，andpreferenceformycontinuanceatmypost，I
remainedintheserviceayearlonger，occupyingmyoddsandendsoftimeinfinishingmybook。Then，feelingtheneedofgoingelsewheretoreviseit，IwrotethePresident，thankinghimforhisconfidenceandkindness，butmakingmyresignationfinal，andnamingthedatewhenitwouldbeabsolutelynecessaryformetoleaveRussia。Averykindletterfromhimwastheresult;thetimeIhadnamedwasaccepted;andonthe1stofNovember，1894，tomyespecialsatisfaction，Iwasoncemorefreefromofficialduty。
CHAPTERXXXIX
ASMEMBEROFTHEVENEZUELACOMMISSION——1895—1896
Earlyonemorning，justattheendof1895，asIwasatworkbeforetheblazingfireinmylibraryattheuniversity，thewinterstormshowlingoutside，acardwasbroughtinbearingthenameofMr。Hamlin，assistantsecretaryofthetreasuryoftheUnitedStates。WhileIwaswonderingwhat，atthattimeoftheyear，couldhavebroughtamanfromsuchimportantdutiesinWashingtontothebleakhillsofcentralNewYork，heentered，andsoonmadeknownhisbusiness，whichwastotenderme，onthepartofPresidentCleveland，apositionuponthecommissionwhichhadbeenauthorizedbyCongresstosettletheboundarybetweentherepublicofVenezuelaandBritishGuiana。
Thewholematterhadattractedgreatattention，notonlyintheUnitedStates，butthroughouttheworld。TheappointmentofthecommissionwastheresultofachainofcircumstancesveryhonorabletothePresident，tohisSecretaryofState，Mr。Olney，andtoCongress。ForyearstheVenezuelangovernmenthadbeenendeavoringtoestablishafrontierbetweenitsterritoryandthatofitspowerfulneighbor，butwithoutresult;andmeantimetheBritishboundaryseemedtobepushedmoreandmoreintotheterritoryofthelittleSpanish—Americanrepublic。Foryears，too，VenezuelahadappealedtotheUnitedStates，andtheUnitedStateshadappealedtoGreatBritain。AmericansecretariesofstateandambassadorsattheCourtofSt。Jameshad"trusted，"
and"regretted，"andhad"thehonortorenewassurancesoftheirmostdistinguishedconsideration";butallinvain。AtlastthematterhadbeenpresentedbySecretaryOlneytothegovernmentofLordSalisbury;andnow，toMr。Olney’smaindespatchonthesubject，LordSalisbury，aftersomemonths’delay，hadreturnedananswerdecliningarbitration，andaddingthatinternationallawdidnotrecognizetheMonroeDoctrine。Thisseemedevenmorethancool;for，whenonerememberedthattheMonroeDoctrinewasatfirstlaiddownwiththeapprovalofGreatBritain，thatitwasglorifiedinParliamentandintheBritishpressof1823andtheyearsfollowing，andthatGreatBritainhadlaiddownpoliciesinvariouspartsoftheearth，especiallyintheMediterraneanandinthefarEast，whichsheinsistedthatallotherpowersshouldrespectwithoutreferencetoanysanctionbyinternationallaw，thisargumentseemedalmostinsulting。
SoitevidentlyseemedtoMr。Cleveland。Probablynomanlessinclinedtodemagogismortoapolicyofadventureeverexisted;
butashelookedoverthecasehisAmericaninstinctswereevidentlyaroused。Hesawthen，whatiscleartoeverybodynow，thatitwasthetimeofalltimesforlayingdown，distinctlyanddecisively，theAmericandoctrineonthesubject。Hedidso，andinamessagetoCongressproposedthat，sinceGreatBritainwouldnotintrustthefindingofaboundarytoarbitration，theUnitedStatesshouldappointcommissionerstofindwhattheproperboundarywas，andthen，havingascertainedit，shouldsupportitssisterAmericanrepublicinmaintainingit。
OfcoursethePresidentwasattackedfromallsidesmostbitterly;eventhosecalled"thebetterelement"intheRepublicanandDemocraticparties，whohadbeenhisardentsupporters，nowbecamehisbitterenemies。Hewaschargedwith"demagogism"and"jingoism，"buthekeptsturdilyon。Congress，includingthegreatbodyoftheRepublicans，supportedhim;thepeopleatlargestoodbyhim;and，asaresult，acommissiontodeterminetheboundarywasappointedandbeganitsworkinWashington，thecommissionersbeing，intheordernamedbythePresident，DavidJ。BrewerofKansas，ajusticeoftheSupremeCourtoftheUnitedStates;ChiefJusticeAlveyoftheDistrictofColumbia;AndrewD。WhiteofNewYork;F。R。Coudert，aneminentmemberoftheNewYorkbar;andDanielC。GilmanofMaryland，PresidentofJohnsHopkinsUniversity。
OnourarrivalinWashingtontherewasmuchdiscouragementamongus。Wefoundourselvesinajungleofgeographicalandlegalquestions，withnoclueinsightleadinganywhither。TherightsofGreatBritainhadbeenderivedin1815，fromtheNetherlands;
therightsofVenezuelahadbeenderived，about1820，fromSpain;
buttofindtheboundaryseparatingthetwointhatvastterritory，mainlyunsettled，betweentheOrinocoandtheEssequiborivers，seemedimpossible。
TheoriginalrightsoftheNetherlandshadbeenderivedfromSpainbythetreatyofMunsterin1648;andonexaminingthatenormousdocument，whichsettledweightyquestionsinvariouspartsoftheworld，afterthelife—and—deathstruggle，religious，political，andmilitary，whichhadgoneonfornearlyeightyyears，onelittleclausearrestedourattention:that，namely，inwhichtheSpaniards，despitetheirbitterhatredoftheDutch，agreedthatthelattermightcarryonwarlikeoperationsagainst"certainotherpeople"withreferencetoterritorialrightsinAmerica。These"certainotherpeople"werenotpreciselyindicated;andwehoped，byfindingwhotheywere，togetacluetothefundamentalfactsofthecase。Straightwaytwoofourthreelawyers，Mr。JusticeBrewerandMr。Coudert，grappledonthisquestion，oneofthemtakingthegroundthatthese"otherpeople"referredtoweretheCaribbeanIndianswhohadlivedjustsouthofthemouthoftheOrinoco，andhadbeenfriendlytotheDutchbutimplacabletowardtheSpaniards，andthattheirterritorywastobeconsideredasvirtuallyDutch，and，therefore，ashavingpassedfinallytoEngland。ButtheotherdisputantinsistedthatitreferredtotheBraziliansandhadnorelationtothequestionwithwhichwehadtodeal。Duringtwowholesessionsthisgroundwasfoughtoverinalegalwaybythesegentlemen，withgreatacumen，therestofushardlyputtinginaword。
AtthebeginningofthethirdsessionIventuredaremonstrance，sayingthatitwasahistorical，andnotalegal，question;thatitcouldnotpossiblybesettledbylegalargument;thatthefirstthingtoknowwaswhytheclausewasinsertedinthetreaty，andthatthenextthingwastofind，fromthewholehistoryleadinguptoit，whothose"otherpersons"thusvaguelyreferredtoandleftbytheSpaniardstothetendermerciesoftheDutchmightbe;andIinsistedthatthis，beingahistoricalquestion，mustbesolvedbyhistoricalexperts。Thecommissionacknowledgedthejusticeofthis;andonmynominationwecalledtoouraidMr。GeorgeLincolnBurr，professorofhistoryinCornellUniversity。Itisnotatalltheveryclosefriendshipwhichhasexistedforsomanyyearsbetweenuswhichpromptstheassertionthat，ofallhistoricalscholarsIhaveeverknown，heisamongtheveryforemost，byhispowersofresearch，histenacityofmemory，hisalmostpreternaturalaccuracy，hisabilitytokeepthewholefieldofinvestigationinhismind，andhisfidelitytotruthandjustice。Hewassetattheproblem，andgivenaccesstothelibrariesofCongressandoftheStateDepartment，asalsotothelargecollectionsofbooksandmapswhichhadbeenplacedatthedisposalofthecommission。OfthesethemostimportantwerethoseofHarvardUniversityandtheUniversityofWisconsin。Curiousasitmayseem，thislatterinstitution，farintheinteriorofourcountry，possessesalargeandmostvaluablecollectionofmapsrelatingtothecolonizationhistoryofSouthAmerica。WithintwoweeksProfessorBurrreported，andneverdidareportgivemoresatisfaction。Hehadunraveled，historically，thewholemystery，andfoundthat，thegovernmentofBrazilhavingplayedfalsetobothSpaniardsandDutch，SpainhadallowedtheNetherlandstotakevengeanceforthevexationsofboth。Wealsohadtheexceedinglyvaluableservices，astomapsandearlycolonizationhistory，ofMr。
JustinWinsor，librarianofHarvardUniversity，eminentbothashistorianandgeographer，andofProfessorJamesonofBrownUniversity，whohadalsodistinguishedhimselfinthesefields。
Besidesthese，Mr。MarcusBakeroftheUnitedStatesCoastSurveyaidedus，fromdaytoday，inmappingoutanyterritoriesthatwewishedespeciallytostudy。
Allthisworkwasindispensable。AttheverybeginningofoursessionstherehadbeenlaidbeforeusthefirstofaseriesofBritishBlueBooksonthewholesubject;and，withallmyadmirationforthebetterthingsinBritishhistory，politics，andlife，candorcompelsmetosaythatitwasanythingbutcreditabletothemenimmediatelyresponsibleforit。Itmadeseveralstatementsthatwereabsolutelybaseless，andsoughttorestthemuponauthoritieswhich，whenexamined，werefoundnottobearintheslightestdegreetheinterpretationputuponthem。
Imustconfessthatnothing，save，perhaps，theconductofBritish"experts"regardingtheBehringSeaquestion，hasevercomesonearshakingmyfaithin"Britishfairplay。"NorweretheAmericancommissionersaloneinjudgingthisdocumentseverely。Criticsbrokeforth，evenintheLondon"Times，"
denouncingit，untilitwassupplantedbyanother，whichwasfairandjust。
I，ofcourse，imputenothingtotheleadingBritishstatesmenwhohadchargeofthewholeVenezuelanquestion。Theculpritswere，undoubtedly，sundryunderlingswhosezealoutrantheirhonesty。
TheyapparentlythoughtthatintheUnitedStates，whichtheyprobablyconsideredasnew，raw，andtoomuchengagedindollar—huntingtoproducescholars，theircitationsfromauthoritiesmoreorlessdifficultofaccesswouldfailtobecriticallyexamined。Buttheirconductwassoonexposed，andeventheirprincipalsjoinedinrepudiatingsomeoftheirfundamentalstatements。ProfessorBurrwassentabroad，andatTheHaguewasabletodrawtreasuresfromthelibraryandarchivesregardingtheoldDutchoccupationandtosendamassofimportantmaterialforourdeliberations。InLondonalsohesoonshowedhisqualities，andthesewereacknowledgedevenbysomeleadingBritishgeographers。ThelatterhadatfirstseemedinclinedtoindulgeinwhataGermanmightcall"tendency"geography;buttheclearness，earnestness，andhonestyofouragentsoongainedtheirrespect，and，afterthat，theinvestigatorsofbothsidesworkedharmoniouslytogether。Whilethedistinguishedlawyersabovenamedhadmainchargeofthelegalquestions，PresidentGilman，whohadinhisearlylifebeenprofessorofphysicalandgeneralgeographyatYale，wasgivenchargeofthewholematterofmap—seekingand—making;andtome，withtheothers，wasleftthedutyofstudyingandreportinguponthematerialasbroughtin。TakingupmyresidenceatWashington，Iappliedmyselfearnestlytoreadingthroughmassesofbooks，correspondence，andotherdocuments，andstudiedmapsuntilIfeltasifIhadlivedinthecountryconcernedandwaspersonallyacquaintedwiththeDutchgovernorsontheCuyuniandtheSpanishmonksontheOrinoco。Asaresultlinesmoreorlesstentativewerepreparedbyeachofus，JudgeBrewerandmyselfagreeingveryclosely，andtheothersnotbeingverydistantfromusatanyimportantpoint。
OneformerprimeministerofGreatBritainIlearned，duringthisinvestigation，torespectgreatly，——LordAberdeen，whomIwellrememberedasdiscreditedanddrivenfrompowerduringmystayinRussiaatthetimeoftheCrimeanWar。HewaswiseenoughinthosedaystodisbelieveinwarwithRussia，andtodesireasolutionoftheTurkishproblembypeace，butwasoverruled，andthesolutionwasattemptedbyawarmostcostlyinbloodandtreasure，whichwasapparentlysuccessful，butreallyafailure。
Hewasdrivenfromhispostwithignominy;andIwellrememberedseeingaverysuccessfulcartoonin"Punch"atthatperiod，representinghim，wearingcoronetandmantleandfastasleep，atthehelmoftheshipofstate，whichwasrollinginthetroughoftheseaandapparentlyabouttofounder。
Sincethattimehiswisdomhas，Ithink，beenrecognized;andI
amnowgladtoacknowledgethefactthat，ofallthemanyBritishstatesmenwhodealtwiththeVenezuelanquestion，hewasclearlythemostjust。Thelinehedrewseemedtomethefairestpossible。HedidnotattempttograspthemouthoftheOrinoco，nordidhemeanderaboutchoicegold—fieldsorvaluablestrategicpoints，seekingtoincludethem。TheVenezuelansthemselveshadshownwillingnesstoaccepthisproposal;butalleged，astheirreasonfornotdoingso，thattheBritishgovernmenthadpreachedtothemregardingtheirinternalpolicysooffensivelythatself—respectforbadethemtoacquiesceinanypartofit。
TowardthisAberdeenlinewetendedmoreandmore;andinthesequelweheard，withverygreatsatisfaction，thattheArbitrationTribunalatParishadpracticallyadoptedthisline，whichweofthecommissionhadvirtuallyagreedupon。Itneedhardlybestatedthat，eachsidehavingatthebeginningofthearbitrationclaimedthewholevastterritorybetweentheOrinocoandtheEssequibo，neitherwasquitesatisfiedwiththeaward。
ButIbelieveittobethoroughlyjust，andthatitformsamoststrikingtestimonytothevalueofinternationalarbitrationinsuchquestions，asameans，notonlyofpreservinginternationalpeace，butofarrivingatsubstantialjustice。
Ourdeliberationsandconclusionswere，ofcourse，keptsecret。
Itwasoftheutmostimportancethatnothingshouldgetoutregardingthem。Oursessionsweredelayedandgreatlyprolonged，partlyonaccountoftheamountofworktobedoneinstudyingthemanyquestionsinvolved，andpartlybecausewehopedthat，moreandmore，Britishopinionwouldtendtothesubmissionofthewholequestiontothejudgmentofaproperinternationaltribunal;andthatLordSalisbury，theprimeminister，who，inhisrathercynical，"Saturday—Review，"high—Toryway，hadscoutedtheideaofarbitration，wouldatlastbebroughttoit。Ofcourse，everythinkingEnglishmanlookedwithuneasinesstowardthepossibilitythatalinemightbelaiddownbytheUnitedStateswhichitwouldfeelobligedtomaintain，andwhichwouldnecessitateitssupportingVenezuela，atallhazards，againstGreatBritain。
ThestatesmanshipofMr。ClevelandandMr。Olneyfinallytriumphed。Mostfortunatelyforbothparties，GreatBritainhadatWashingtonamosteminentdiplomatist，whoseacquaintanceI
thenmade，butwhomIafterwardcametoknow，respect，andadmireevenmoreduringthePeaceConferenceatTheHague——SirJulian，afterwardLord，Pauncefote。Hiswisecounselsprevailed;LordSalisburyrecededfromhisposition;GreatBritainagreedtoarbitration;andthequestionenteredintoanewstage，whichwasfinallyendedbytheawardoftheArbitrationTribunalatParis，presidedoverbyM。deMartensofSt。Petersburg，andhavingonitsbenchthechiefjusticesofthetwonationsandtwoofthemosteminentjudgesoftheirhighestcourts。ItiswithprideandsatisfactionthatIfindtheirawardagreeing，substantially，withthelinewhich，aftersomuchtrouble，ourowncommissionhadworkedout。Arbitrationhavingbeendecidedupon，ourcommissionrefrainedfromlayingdownafrontier—line，butreportedamassofmaterial，somefourteenvolumesinall，withanatlascontainingaboutseventy—fivemaps，allofwhichformedamostvaluablecontributiontothemateriallaidbeforetheCourtofArbitrationatParis。
Itwasahappysolutionofthewholequestion，anditwasatriumphofAmericandiplomacyinthecauseofrightandjustice。
Imaymention，inpassing，onelittlematterwhichthrowslightuponacertaindisgracefulsystemtowhichIhavehadoccasiontoreferatvariousothertimesinthesememoirs;andIdosonowinthehopeofkeepingpeoplethinkingupononeofthemostwretchedabusesintheUnitedStates。Ihavesaidabovethatwewere，ofcourse，obligedtomaintainthestrictestsecrecy。Tohaveallowedourconclusionstogetoutwouldhavethwartedthewholepurposeoftheinvestigation;butapersonwhoclaimedtorepresentoneoftheleadingpressesinWashingtonseemedtothinkthatconsiderationofnospecialimportance，andcametoourrooms，virtuallyinsistingonreceivinginformation。Havingbeentoldthatitcouldnotbegivenhim，hetookhisrevengebyinsertingasensationalparagraphinthepapersregardingtheextravaganceofthecommission。Heinformedtheworldthatwewereexpendinglargesumsofpublicmoneyincostlyfurniture，inrichcarpets，andespeciallyinsplendidsilverware。Thefactwasthattheroomswerefurnishedverysimply，withplainofficefurniture，withcheapcarpets，andwithasafeforlockingupthemorepreciousdocumentsintrustedtousandsuchpapersasitwasimportanttokeepsecret。The"silverware"consistedoftwoveryplainplatedjugsforice—water;andImayaddthatafterouradjournmentthefurniturewassowiselysoldthatverynearlythewholeexpenditureforitwasreturnedintothetreasury。
Thesedetailswouldbeutterlytrivialwereitnotthat，withotherswhichIhavegiveninotherplaces，theyindicatethatprostitutionofthepresstosensation—mongeringwhichtheAmericanpeopleshouldrealizeandreprove。
WhileIhavenotgoneintominordetailsofourwork，Ihavethoughtthatthusmuchmightbeinteresting。Ofcourse，hadthesereminiscencesbeenwrittenearlier，thissketchoftheinteriorhistoryofthecommissionwouldhavebeenomitted;butnow，theawardoftheParistribunalhavingbeenmade，thereisnoreasonwhysecrecyshouldbelongermaintained。Never，beforethataward，didanyofus，Iamsure，indicatetoanypersonwhatourviewastothelinebetweenthepossessionsofVenezuelaandGreatBritainwas;butnowwemaydoso，andIfeelthatallconcernedmaybecongratulatedonthefactthattwotribunals，eachseekingtodojustice，unitedonthesameline，andthatlinevirtuallythesamewhichoneofthemostjustofBritishstatesmenhadapprovedmanyyearsbefore。
DuringthisVenezuelaworkinWashingtonImadeacquaintancewithmanyleadingmeninpolitics;andamongthosewhointerestedmemostwasMr。CarlisleofKentucky，SecretaryoftheTreasury。HehadbeenmemberofCongress，SpeakeroftheHouseofRepresentatives，andsenator，andwasjustlyrespectedandadmired。PerhapsthemostpeculiartributethatIeverheardpaidtoapublicmanwasgivenhimonceintheHouseofRepresentativesbymyfriendMr。Hiscock，thenrepresentative，andafterwardsenator，fromtheStateofNewYork。SeatedbyhissideintheHouse，andnotingtherulingsofMr。CarlisleasSpeaker，Iasked，"WhatsortofmanisthisSpeakerofyours？"
Mr。Hiscockanswered，"Asyouknow，heisoneofthestrongestofDemocrats，andIamoneofthestrongestofRepublicans;yetI
willsaythis:thatmyimaginationisnotstrongenoughtoconceiveofhismakinganunfairrulingordoinganunfairthingagainstthepartyopposedtohiminthisHouse。"
Mr。Carlisle’stalentswereofaveryhighorder。Hisspeechescarriedgreatweight;andinthecampaignwhichcameonlaterbetweenMr。McKinleyandMr。Bryan，he，inmyopinion，andindeedintheopinion，Ithink，ofeveryleadingpublicman，didamosthonorablethingwhenhedeliberatelybrokefromhisparty，sacrificed，apparently，allhopesofpoliticalpreferment，andopposedtheregularDemocraticcandidate。Hisspeechbeforetheworking—menofChicagoontheissuesofthatperiodwascertainlyoneofthetwomostimportantdeliveredduringthefirstMcKinleycampaign，theotherbeingthatofCarlSchurz。