BetweenKoporieandSt。Petersburgthereisonlyawretchedhutfortheaccommodationoftravellers。Thecountryisawilderness，andtheinhabitantsdonotevenspeakRussian。ThedistrictiscalledIngria，andIbelievethejargonspokenhasnoaffinitywithanyotherlanguage。Theprincipaloccupationofthepeasantsisrobbery，andthetravellerdoeswellnottoleaveanyofhiseffectsaloneforamoment。
IgottoSt。Petersburgjustasthefirstraysofthesunbegantogildthehorizon。Itwasinthewintersolstice，andthesunroseattheextremityofanimmenseplainattwenty—fourminutespastnine，soIamabletostatethatthelongestnightinRussiaconsistsofeighteenhoursandthreequarters。
IgotdowninafinestreetcalledtheMillione。Ifoundacoupleofemptyrooms，whichthepeopleofthehousefurnishedwithtwobeds，fourchairs，andtwosmalltables，andrentedtomeverycheaply。
Seeingtheenormousstoves，Iconcludedtheymustconsumeavastamountofwood，butIwasmistaken。RussiaisthelandofstovesasVeniceisthatofcisterns。Ihaveinspectedtheinteriorofthesestovesinsummer—timeasminutelyasifIwishedtofindoutthesecretofmakingthem；theyaretwelvefeethighbysixbroad，andarecapableofwarmingavastroom。Theyareonlyrefuelledonceintwenty—fourhours，forassoonasthewoodisreducedtothestateofcharcoalavalveisshutintheupperpartofthestove。
Itisonlyinthehousesofnoblementhatthestovesarerefuelledtwiceaday，becauseservantsarestrictlyforbiddentoclosethevalve，andforaverygoodreason。
Ifagentlemanchancetocomehomeandorderhisservantstowarmhisroombeforehegoestobed，andiftheservantiscarelessenoughtoclosethevalvebeforethewoodisreducedtocharcoal，thenthemastersleepshislastsleep，beingsuffocatedinthreeorfourhours。Whenthedoorisopenedinthemorningheisfounddead，andthepoordevilofaservantisimmediatelyhanged，whateverhemaysay。Thissoundssevere，andevencruel；butitisanecessaryregulation，orelseaservantwouldbeabletogetridofhismasteronthesmallestprovocation。
AfterIhadmadeanagreementformyboardandlodging，bothofwhichwereverycheap（nowSt。Petersburg，isasdearasLondon），Ibroughtsomepiecesoffurniturewhichwerenecessariesforme，butwhichwerenotasyetmuchinuseinRussia，suchasacommode，abureau，&c。
GermanisthelanguageprincipallyspokeninSt。Petersburg，andI
didnotspeakGermanmuchbetterthenthanIdonow，soIhadagooddealofdifficultyinmakingmyselfunderstood，andusuallyexcitedmyauditorstolaughter。
AfterdinnermylandlordtoldmethattheCourtwasgivingamaskedballtofivethousandpersonstolastsixtyhours。Hegavemeaticket，andtoldmeIonlyneededtoshewitattheentranceoftheimperialpalace。
Idecidedtousetheticket，forIfeltthatIshouldliketobepresentatsonumerousanassembly，andasIhadmydominostillbymeamaskwasallIwanted。Iwenttothepalaceinasedan—chair，andfoundanimmensecrowdassembled，anddancinggoingoninseveralhallsineachofwhichanorchestrawasstationed。Therewerelongcountersloadedwitheatablesanddrinkablesatwhichthosewhowerehungryorthirstyateordrankasmuchastheyliked。Gaietyandfreedomreignedeverywhere，andthelightofathousandwaxcandlesilluminatedthehall。Everythingwaswonderful，andallthemoresofromitscontrastwiththecoldanddarknessthatwerewithout。AllatonceIheardamasquerbesidemesaytoanother，——
"There’stheczarina。"
WesoonsawGregoryOrloff，forhisordersweretofollowtheempressatadistance。
Ifollowedthemasquer，andIwassoonpersuadedthatitwasreallytheempress，foreverybodywasrepeatingit，thoughnooneopenlyrecognizedher。Thosewhoreallydidnotknowherjostledherinthecrowd，andIimaginedthatshewouldbedelightedatbeingtreatedthus，asitwasaproofofthesuccessofherdisguise。SeveraltimesIsawherspeakinginRussiantoonemasquerandanother。Nodoubtsheexposedhervanitytosomerudeshocks，butshehadalsotheinestimableadvantageofhearingtruthswhichhercourtierswouldcertainlynottellher。ThemasquerwhowaspronouncedtobeOrlofffollowedhereverywhere，anddidnotletheroutofhissightforamoment。Hecouldnotbemistaken，ashewasanexceptionallytallmanandhadapeculiarcarriageofthehead。
IarrestedmyprogressinahallwheretheFrenchsquaredancewasbeingperformed，andsuddenlythereappearedamasquerdisguisedintheVenetianstyle。ThecostumewassocompletethatIatoncesethimdownasafellow—countryman，forveryfewstrangerscanimitateussoastoescapedetection。Asithappened，hecameandstoodnexttome。
"OnewouldthinkyouwereaVenetian，"IsaidtohiminFrench。
"SoIam。"
"Likemyself。"
"Iamnotjesting。"
"NomoreamI。"
"ThenletusspeakinVenetian。"
"Doyoubegin，andIwillreply。"
Webeganourconversation，butwhenhecametothewordSabato，Saturday，whichisaSaboinVenetian，IdiscoveredthathewasarealVenetian，butnotfromVeniceitself。HesaidIwasright，andthathejudgedfrommyaccentthatIcamefromVenice。
"Quiteso，"saidI。
"IthoughtBernadiwastheonlyVenetianbesidesmyselfinSt。
Petersburg。"
"Youseeyouaremistaken。"
"MynameisCountVolpatidiTreviso。"
"Givemeyouraddress，andIwillcomeandtellyouwhoIam，forI
cannotdosohere。"
"Hereitis。"
AfterleavingthecountIcontinuedmyprogressthroughthiswonderfulhall，andtwoorthreehoursafterIwasattractedbythevoiceofafemalemasquerspeakingParisianFrenchinahighfalsetto，suchasiscommonatanoperaball。
IdidnotrecognizethevoicebutIknewthestyle，andfeltquitecertainthatthemasquermustbeoneofmyoldfriends，forshespokewiththeintonationsandphraseologywhichIhadrenderedpopularinmychiefplacesofresortatParis。
Iwascurioustoseewhoitcouldbe，andnotwishingtospeakbeforeIknewher，Ihadthepatiencetowaittillsheliftedhermask，andthisoccurredattheendofanhour。WhatwasmysurprisetoseeMadameBaret，thestocking—selleroftheRueSt。Honor&Myloveawokefromitslongsleep，andcominguptoherIsaid，inafalsettovoice，——
"Iamyourfriendofthe’Hoteld’Elbeuf。’"
Shewaspuzzled，andlookedthepictureofbewilderment。Iwhisperedinherear，"GilbertBaret，RuedesProuveres，"andcertainotherfactswhichcouldonlybeknowntoherselfandafortunatelover。
ShesawIknewherinmostsecrets，anddrawingmeawayshebeggedmetotellherwhoIwas。
"Iwasyourlover，andafortunateone，too，"Ireplied；"butbeforeItellyoumyname，withwhomareyou，andhowareyou？"
"Verywell；butpraydonotdivulgewhatItellyou。IleftPariswithM。d’Anglade，counsellorintheCourtofRouen。Ilivedhappilyenoughforsometimewithhim，andthenlefthimtogowithatheatricalmanager，whobroughtmehereasanactressunderthenameofdel’Anglade，andnowIamkeptbyCountRzewuski，thePolishambassador。Andnowtellmewhoyouare？"
Feelingsureofenjoyingheragain，Iliftedmymask。Shegaveacryofjoy，andexclaimed，——
"MygoodangelhasbroughtyoutoSt。Petersburg。"
"Howdoyoumean？"
"RzewuskiisobligedtogobacktoPoland，andnowIcountonyoutogetmeoutofthecountry，forIcannolongercontinueinastationforwhichIwasnotintended，sinceIcanneithersingnoract。"
Shegavemeheraddress，andIleftherdelightedwithmydiscovery。
Afterhavingpassedhalfanhouratthecounter，eatinganddrinkingofthebest，Ireturnedtothecrowdandsawmyfairstocking—sellertalkingtoCountVolpati。Hehadseenherwithme，andhastenedtoenquiremynameofher。However，shewasfaithfultoourmutualpromise，andtoldhimIwasherhusband，thoughtheVenetiandidnotseemtogivetheleastcredencetothispieceofinformation。
AtlastIwastiredandlefttheball，andwenttobedintendingtogotomassinthemorning。Isleptforsometimeandwoke，butasitwasstilldarkIturnedontheothersideandwenttosleepagain。
AtlastIawokeagain，andseeingthedaylightstealingthroughmydoublewindows，Isentforahairdresser，tellingmymantomakehasteasIwantedtohearmassonthefirstSundayaftermyarrivalinSt。Petersburg。
"Butsir，"saidhe，"thefirstSundaywasyesterday；weareatMondaynow。"
"What！Monday？"
"Yes，sir。"
Ihadspenttwenty—sevenhoursinbed，andafterlaughingatthemishapIfeltasifIcouldeasilybelieveit，formyhungerwaslikethatofacannibal。
ThisistheonlydaywhichIreallylostinmylife；butIdonotweepliketheRomanemperor，Ilaugh。ButthisisnottheonlydifferencebetweenTitusandCasanova。
IcalledonDemetrioPapanelopulo，theGreekmerchant，whowastopaymeahundredroublesamonth。IwasalsocommendedtohimbyM。daLoglio，andIhadanexcellentreception。Hebeggedmetocomeanddinewithhimeveryday，paidmetheroublesforthemonthdue，andassuredmethathehadhonouredmybilldrawnatMitau。Healsofoundmeareliableservant，andacarriageateighteenroubles，orsixducatspermonth。Suchcheapnesshas，alas！departedforever。
Thenextday，asIwasdiningwiththeworthyGreekandyoungBernardi，whowasafterwardspoisoned，CountVolpaticameinwiththedessert，andtoldushowhehadmetaVenetianattheballwhohadpromisedtocomeandseehim。
"TheVenetianwouldhavekepthispromise，"saidI，"ifhehadnothadalongsleepoftwenty—sevenhours。IamtheVenetian，andamdelightedtocontinueouracquaintance。"
Thecountwasabouttoleave，andhisdeparturehadalreadybeenannouncedintheSt。PetersburgGazette。TheRussiancustomisnottogiveatravellerhispassportstillafortnighthaselapsedaftertheappearanceofhisnameinthepaper。Thisregulationisfortheadvantageoftradesmen，whileitmakesforeignersthinktwicebeforetheycontractanydebts。
ThenextdayItookaletterofintroductiontoM。PietroIvanovitchMelissino，colonelandafterwardsgeneralofartillery。TheletterwaswrittenbyMadamedaLoglio，whowasveryintimatewithMelissino。Iwasmostpolitelywelcomed，andafterpresentingmetohispleasantwife，heaskedmeonceforalltosupwithhimeverynight。ThehousewasmanagedintheFrenchstyle，andbothplayandsupperwereconductedwithoutanyceremony。ImetthereMelissino’selderbrother，theprocuratoroftheHolySynodandhusbandofthePrincessDolgorouki。Farowenton，andthecompanywascomposedoftrustworthypersonswhoneitherboastedoftheirgainsnorbewailedtheirlossestoanyone，andsotherewasnofearoftheGovernmentdiscoveringthisinfrigementofthelawagainstgaming。ThebankwasheldbyBaronLefort，sonofthecelebratedadmiralofPetertheGreat。Lefortwasanexampleoftheinconstancyoffortune；hewasthenindisgraceonaccountofalotterywhichhehadheldatMoscowtocelebratethecoronationoftheempress，whohadfurnishedhimwiththenecessaryfunds。Thelotteryhadbeenbrokenandthefactwasattributedtothebaron’ssupposeddishonesty。
Iplayedforsmallstakesandwonafewroubles。ImadefriendswithBaronLefortatsupper，andheafterwardstoldmeofthevicissitudeshehadexperienced。
AsIwaspraisingthenoblecalmnesswithwhichacertainprincehadlostathousandroublestohim，helaughedandsaidthatthefinegamesterIhadmentionedplayeduponcreditbutneverpaid。
"Howabouthishonour？"
"Itisnotaffectedbythenon—paymentofgamingdebts。ItisanunderstoodthinginRussiathatonewhoplaysoncreditandlosesmaypayornotpayashewishes，andthewinneronlymakeshimselfridiculousbyremindingtheloserofhisdebt。"
"Thentheholderofthebankhastherighttorefusetoacceptbetswhicharenotbackedbyreadymoney。"
"Certainly；andnobodyhasarighttobeoffendedwithhimfordoingso。GamingisinaverybadstateinRussia。Iknowyoungmenofthehighestrankwhosechiefboastisthattheyknowhowtoconquerfortune；thatis，tocheat。OneoftheMatuschkinsgoessofarastochallengeallforeigncheatstomasterhim。Hehasjustreceivedpermissiontotravelforthreeyears，anditisanopensecretthathewishestotravelthathemayexercisehisskill。HeintendsreturningtoRussialadenwiththespoilsofthedupeshehasmade。"
AyoungofficeroftheguardsnamedZinowieff，arelationoftheOrloffs，whomIhadmetatMelissino’s，introducedmetoMacartney，theEnglishambassador，ayoungmanofpartsandfondofpleasure。
HehadfalleninlovewithayoungladyoftheChitrofffamily，andmaidofhonourtotheempress，andfindinghisaffectionreciprocatedababywastheresult。TheempressdisapprovedstronglyofthispieceofEnglishfreedom，andhadtheambassadorrecalled，thoughsheforgavehermaidofhonour。Thisforgivenesswasattributedtotheyounglady’sskillindancing。Iknewthebrotherofthislady，afineandintelligentyoungofficer。IhadthegoodfortunetobeadmittedtotheCourt，andthereIhadthepleasureofseeingMdlle。
Chitroffdancing，andalsoMdlle。Sievers，nowPrincesss，whomIsawagainatDresdenfouryearsagowithherdaughter，anextremelygenteelyoungprincess。IwasenchantedwithMdlle。Sievers，andfeltquiteinlovewithher；butaswewereneverintroducedIhadnoopportunityofdeclaringmypassion。Putini，thecastrato，washighinherfavour，asindeedhedeservedtobe，bothforhistalentsandthebeautiesofhisperson。
TheworthyPapanelopulointroducedmetoAlsuwieff，oneoftheministers，amanofwitandletters，andonlyoneofthekindwhomI
metinRussia。HehadbeenanindustriousstudentattheUniversityofUpsala，andlovedwine，women，andgoodcheer。HeaskedmetodinewithLocatelliatCatherinhoff，oneoftheimperialmansions，whichtheempresshadassignedtotheoldtheatricalmanagerfortheremainderofhisdays。Hewasastonishedtoseeme，andIwasmoreastonishedstilltofindthathehadturnedtaverner，forhegaveanexcellentdinnereverydaytoallwhocaredtopayarouble，exclusiveofwine。M。d’Alsuwieffintroducedmetohiscolleagueintheministry，Teploff，whosevicewasthathelovedboys，andhisvirtuethathehadstrangledPeterIII。
MadameMecour，thedancer，introducedmetoherlover，Ghelaghin，alsoaminister。HehadspenttwentyyearsofhislifeinSiberia。
AletterfromDaLogliogotmeawarmwelcomefromthecastratoLuini，adelightfulman，whokeptasplendidtable。HewastheloverofColonna，thesinger，buttheiraffectionseemedtomeatorment，fortheycouldscarcelivetogetherinpeaceforasingleday。AtLuini’shouseImetanothercastrato，Millico，agreatfriendofthechiefhuntsman，Narischkin，whoalsobecameoneofmyfriends。ThisNarischkin，apleasantandawell—informedman，wasthehusbandofthefamousMariaPaulovna。Itwasatthechiefhuntsman’ssplendidtablethatImetCalogesoPlato，nowarchbishopofNovgorod，andthenchaplaintotheempress。ThismonkwasaRussian，andamasterofruses，understoodGreek，andspokeLatinandFrench，andwaswhatwouldbecalledafineman。Itwasnowonderthatherosetosuchaheight，asinRussiathenobilityneverlowerthemselvesbyacceptingchurchdignities。
DaLogliohadgivenmealetterforthePrincessDaschkoff，andI
tookittohercountryhouse，atthedistanceofthreeverstsfromSt。Petersburg。Shehadbeenexiledfromthecapital，because，havingassistedCatherinetoascendthethrone，sheclaimedtoshareitwithher。
Ifoundtheprincessmourningforthelossofherhusband。Shewelcomedmekindly，andpromisedtospeaktoM。Paninonmybehalf；
andthreedayslatershewrotetomethatIcouldcallonthatnoblemanassoonasIliked。Thiswasaspecimenoftheempress’smagnanimity；shehaddisgracedtheprincess，butsheallowedherfavouriteministertopayhiscourttohereveryevening。Ihaveheard，ongoodauthority，thatPaninwasnottheprincess’slover，butherfather。SheisnowthePresidentoftheAcademyofScience，andIsupposetheliteratimustlookuponherasanotherMinerva，orelsetheywouldbeashamedtohaveawomanattheirhead。Forcompleteness’saketheRussiansshouldgetawomantocommandtheirarmies，butJoand’Arcsarescarce。
MelissinoandIwerepresentatanextraordinaryceremonyontheDayoftheEpiphany，namelytheblessingoftheNeva，thencoveredwithfivefeetofice。
Afterthebenedictionofthewaterschildrenwerebaptizedbybeingplungedintoalargeholewhichhadbeenmadeintheice。OnthedayonwhichIwaspresentthepriesthappenedtoletoneofthechildrenslipthroughhishands。
"Drugoi！"hecried。
Thatis，"Givemeanother。"ButmysurprisemaybeimaginedwhenI
sawthatthefatherandmotherofthechildwereinanecstasyofjoy；theywerecertainthatthebabehadbeencarriedstraighttoheaven。Happyignorance！
IhadaletterfromtheFlorentineMadameBregonciforherfriendtheVenetianRoccolini，whohadleftVenicetogoandsingattheSt。
PetersburgTheatre，thoughshedidnotknowanoteofmusic，andhadneverappearedonthestage。Theempresslaughedather，andsaidshefearedtherewasnoopeninginSt。Petersburgforherpeculiartalents，buttheRoccolini，whowasknownasLaVicenza，wasnotthewomantoloseheartforsosmallacheck。ShebecameanintimatefriendofaFrenchwomannamedProte，thewifeofamerchantwholivedwiththechiefhuntsman。ShewasatthesametimehismistressandtheconfidanteofhiswifeMariaPetrovna，whodidnotlikeherhusband，andwasverymuchobligedtotheFrenchwomanfordeliveringherfromtheconjugalimportunities。
ThisProtewasoneofthehandsomestwomenIhaveeverseen，andundoubtedlythehandsomestinSt。Petersburgatthattime。Shewasintheflowerofherage。Shehadatonceawonderfultasteforgallantryandforallthemysteriesofthetoilette。Indressshesurpassedeveryone，andasshewaswittyandamusingshecaptivatedallhearts。SuchwasthewomanwhosefriendandprocuressLaVicenzahadbecome。ShereceivedtheapplicationsofthosewhowereinlovewithMadameProte，andpassedthemon，while，whetheralover’ssuitwasacceptedornot，theprocuressgotsomethingoutofhim。
IrecognizedSignoraRoccoliniassoonasIsawher，butastwentyyearshadelapsedsinceourlastmeetingshedidnotwonderatmyappearingnottoknowher，andmadenoeffortstorefreshmymemory。
HerbrotherwascalledMontellato，andheitwaswhotriedtoassassinatemeonenightinSt。Mark’sSquare，asIwasleavingtheRidotto。Theplotthatwouldhavecostmemylife，ifIhadnotmademyescapefromthewindow，waslaidintheRoccolini’shouse。
Shewelcomedmeasafellow—countrymaninastrangeland，toldmeofherstruggles，andaddedthatnowshehadaneasylifeofit，andassociatedwiththepleasantestladiesinSt。Petersburg。
"IamastonishedthatyouhavenotmetthefairMadameProteatthechiefhuntsman’s，forsheisthedarlingofhisheart。Comeandtakecoffeewithmeto—morrow，andyoushallseeawonder。"
Ikepttheappointment，andIfoundtheladyevenmorebeautifulthantheVenetian’spraisesofherhadledmetoexpect。Iwasdazzledbyherbeauty，butnotbeingarichmanIfeltthatImustsetmywitstoworkifIwantedtoenjoyher。Iaskedhername，thoughIknewitquitewell，andshereplied，"Prote。"
"Iamgladtohearit，madam，"saidI，"foryoutherebypromisetobemine。"
"Howso？"saidshe，withacharmingsmile。Iexplainedthepun，andmadeherlaugh。Itoldheramusingstories，andletherknowtheeffectthatherbeautyhadproducedonme，andthatIhopedtimewouldsoftenherhearttome。Theacquaintancewasmade，andthenceforthIneverwenttoNarischkin’swithoutcallingonher，eitherbeforeorafterdinner。
ThePolishambassadorreturnedaboutthattime，andIhadtoforegomyenjoymentofthefairAnglade，whoacceptedaveryadvantegeousproposalwhichwasmadeherbyCountBrawn。ThischarmingFrenchwomandiedofthesmall—poxafewmonthslater，andtherecanbenodoubtthatherdeathwasablessing，asshewouldhavefallenintomiseryandpovertyafterherbeautyhadoncedecayed。
IdesiredtosucceedwithMadameProte，andwiththatideaIaskedhertodinneratLocatelli’swithLuini，Colonna，Zinowieff，SignoraVicenza，andaviolinist，herlover。Wehadanexcellentdinnerwasheddownwithplentyofwine，andthespiritsofthecompanywerewounduptothepitchIdesired。Aftertherepasteachgentlemanwentapartwithhislady，andIwasonthepointofsuccesswhenanuntowardaccidentinterruptedus。WeweresummonedtoseetheproofsofLuini’sprowess；hehadgoneoutshootingwithhisdogsandguns。
AsIwaswalkingawayfromCatherinhoffwithZinowieffInoticedayoungcountry—womanwhosebeautyastonishedme。Ipointedherouttotheyoungofficer，andwemadeforher；butshefledawaywithgreatactivitytoalittlecottage，wherewefollowedher。Wewentinandsawthefather，mother，andsomechildren，andinacornerthetimidformofthefairmaiden。
Zinowieff（who，bytheway，wasfortwentyyearsRussianambassadoratMadrid）hadalongconversationinRussianwiththefather。Ididnotunderstandwhatwassaid，butIguesseditreferredtothegirlbecause，whenherfathercalledher，sheadvancedsubmissively，andstoodmodestlybeforeus。
Theconversationover，Zinowieffwentout，andIfollowedhimaftergivingthemasterofthehousearouble。Zinowiefftoldmewhathadpassed，sayingthathehadaskedthefatherifhewouldlethimhavethedaughterasamaid—servant，andthefatherhadrepliedthatitshouldbesowithallhisheart，butthathemusthaveahundredroublesforher，asshewasstillavirgin。"Soyousee，"addedZinowieff，"thematterisquitesimple。"
"Howsimple？"
"Why，yes；onlyahundredroubles。"
"Andsupposingmetobeinclinedtogivethatsum？"
"Thenshewouldbeyourservant，andyoucoulddoanythingyoulikedwithher，exceptkillher。"
"Andsupposingsheisnotwilling？"
"Thatneverhappens，butifitdidyoucouldhavebeatenher。"
"Well，ifsheissatisfiedandIenjoyher，canIstillcontinuetokeepher？"
"Youwillbehermaster，Itellyou，andcanhaveherarrestedifsheattemptstoescape，unlessshecanreturnthehundredroublesyougaveforher。"
"WhatmustIgiveherpermonth？"
"Nothing，exceptenoughtoeatanddrink。YoumustalsolethergotothebathsonSaturdayandtothechurchonSunday。"
"CanImakehercomewithmewhenIleaveSt。Petersburg？"
"No，unlessyouobtainpermissionandfindasurety，forthoughthegirlwouldbeyourslaveshewouldstillbeaslavetotheempress。"
"Verygood；thenwillyouarrangethismatterforme？Iwillgivethehundredroubles，andIpromiseyouIwillnottreatherasaslave。ButIhopeyouwillcareformyinterests，asIdonotwishtobeduped。"
"Ipromiseyouyoushallnotbeduped；Iwillseetoeverything。
Wouldyoulikehernow？"
"No，to—morrow。"
"Verygood；thento—morrowitshallbe。"
WereturnedtoSt。Petersburginaphaeton，andthenextdayatnineo’clockIcalledonZinowieff，whosaidhewasdelightedtodomethissmallservice。OnthewayhesaidthatifIlikedhecouldgetmeaperfectseraglioofprettygirlsinafewdays。
"No，"saidI，"oneisenough。"AndIgavehimthehundredroubles。
Wearrivedatthecottage，wherewefoundthefather，mother，anddaughter。Zinowieffexplainedhisbusinesscrudelyenough，afterthecustomofthecountry，andthefatherthankedSt。Nicholasforthegoodluckhehadsenthim。Hespoketohisdaughter，wholookedatmeandsoftlyutteredthenecessaryyes。
ZinowieffthentoldmethatIoughttoascertainthatmatterswereintact，asIwasgoingtopayforavirgin。Iwasafraidofoffendingher，andwouldhavenothingtodowithit；butZinowieffsaidthegirlwouldbemortifiedifIdidnotexamineher，andthatshewouldbedelightedifIplaceherinapositiontoprovebeforeherfatherandmotherthatherconducthadalwaysbeenvirtuous。I
thereforemadetheexaminationasmodestlyasIcould，andIfoundhertobeintact。Totellthetruth，Ishouldnothavesaidanythingifthingshadbeenotherwise。
Zinowieffthengavethehundredroublestothefather，whohandedthemtohisdaughter，andsheonlytookthemtoreturnthemtohermother。Myservantandcoachmanwerethencalledintowitnessasarrangementofwhichtheyknewnothing。
IcalledherZaira，andshegotintothecarriageandreturnedwithmetoSt。Petersburginhercoarseclothes，withoutachemiseofanykind。AfterIhaddroppedZinowieffathislodgingIwenthome，andforfourdaysIwasengagedincollectingandarrangingmyslave’stoilet，notrestingtillIhaddressedhermodestlyintheFrenchstyle。InlessthanthreemonthsshehadlearntenoughItaliantotellmewhatshewantedandtounderstandme。Shesoonlovedme，andafterwardsshegotjealous。Butweshallhearmoreofherinthefollowingchapter。
CHAPTERXX
Crevecoeur——Bomback——JourneytoMoscow——MyAdventuresAtSt。PetersburgThedayonwhichItookZairaIsentLambertaway，forIdidnotknowwhattodowithhim。Hegotdrunkeveryday，andwheninhiscupshewasunbearable。Nobodywouldhaveanythingtosaytohimexceptasacommonsoldier，andthatisnotanenviablepositioninRussia。I
gothimapassportforBerlin，andgavehimenoughmoneyforthejourney。IheardafterwardsthatheenteredtheAustrianservice。
InMay，ZairahadbecomesobeautifulthatwhenIwenttoMoscowI
darednotleaveherbehindme，soItookherinplaceofaservant。
ItwasdelicioustometohearherchatteringintheVenetiandialectIhadtaughther。OnaSaturdayIwouldgowithhertothebathwherethirtyoffortynakedmenandwomenwerebathingtogetherwithouttheslightestconstraint。Thisabsenceofshamemustarise，Ishouldimagine，fromnativeinnocence；butIwonderedthatnonelookedatZaira，whoseemedtometheoriginalofthestatueofPsycheIhadseenattheVillaBorgheseatRome。Shewasonlyfourteen，soherbreastwasnotyetdeveloped，andsheboreaboutherfewtracesofpuberty。Herskinwasaswhiteassnow，andherebonytressescoveredthewholeofherbody，saveinafewplaceswherethedazzlingwhitenessofherskinshonethrough。Hereyebrowswereperfectlyshaped，andhereyes，thoughtheymighthavebeenlarger，couldnothavebeenmorebrilliantormoreexpressive。Ifithadnotbeenforherfuriousjealousyandherblindconfidenceinfortune—
tellingbycards，whichsheconsultedeveryday，Zairawouldhavebeenaparagonamongwomen，andIshouldneverhavelefther。
Ayounganddistinguished—lookingFrenchmancametoSt。PetersburgwithayoungParisiannamedLaRiviere，whowastolerablyprettybutquitedevoidofeducation，unlessitwerethateducationcommontoallthegirlswhoselltheircharmsinParis。ThisyoungmancametomewithaletterfromPrinceCharlesofCourland，whosaidthatifI
coulddoanythingfortheyoungcouplehewouldbegratefultome。
TheyarrivedjustasIwasbreakfastingwithZaira。
"Youmusttellme，"saidItotheyoungFrenchman，"inwhatwayIcanbeofusetoyou。"
"Byadmittingustoyourcompany，andintroducingustoyourfriends。"
"Well，Iamastrangerhere，andIwillcomeandseeyou，andyoucancomeandseeme，andIshallbedelighted；butIneverdineathome。
Astomyfriends，youmustfeelthat，beingastranger，Icouldnotintroduceyouandthelady。Issheyourwife？Peoplewillaskmewhoyouare，andwhatyouaredoingatSt。Petersburg。WhatamItosay？IwonderPrinceCharlesdidnotsendyoutosomeoneelse。"
"IamagentlemanofLorraine，andMadamelaRiviereismymistress，andmyobjectincomingtoSt。Petersburgistoamusemyself。"
"ThenIdon’tknowtowhomIcouldintroduceyouunderthecircumstances；butIshouldthinkyouwillbeabletofindplentyofamusementwithoutknowinganyone。Thetheatres，thestreets，andeventheCourtentertainments，areopentoeveryone。Isupposeyouhaveplentyofmoney？"
"That’sexactlywhatIhaven’tgot，andIdon’texpectanyeither。"
"Well，Ihavenotmuchmore，butyoureallyastonishme。Howcouldyouhavebeensofoolishastocomeherewithoutmoney？"
"Well，mymistresssaidwecoulddowithwhatmoneywegotfromdaytoday。SheinducedmetoleavePariswithoutafarthing，anduptonowitseemstomethatsheisright。Wehavemanagedtogetonsomehow。"
"Thenshehasthepurse？"
"Mypurse，"saidshe，"isinthepocketsofmyfriends。"
"Iunderstand，andIamsureyouhavenodifficultyinfindingthewherewithaltolive。IfIhadsuchapurse，itshouldbeopenedforyou，butIamnotarichman。"
Bomback，acitizenofHamburg，whomIhadknowninEnglandwhencehehadfledonaccountofhisdebts，hadcometoSt。Petersburgandenteredthearmy。Hewasthesonofarichmerchantandkeptupahouse，acarriage，andanarmyofservants；hewasaloverofgoodcheer，women，andgambling，andcontracteddebtseverywhere。Hewasanuglyman，butfullofwitandenergy。HehappenedtocallonmejustasIwasaddressingthestrangetravellerwhosepursewasinthepocketofherfriends。Iintroducedthecoupletohim，tellingthewholestory，theitemofthepurseexcepted。TheadventurewasjusttoBomback’staste，andhebeganmakingadvancestoMadamelaRiviere，whoreceivedtheminathoroughlyprofessionalspirit，andI
wasinwardlyamusedandfeltthatheraxiomwasatrueone。Bombackaskedthemtodinewithhimthenextday，andbeggedthemtocomeandtakeanunceremoniousdinnerthesamedaywithhimatCrasnacaback。
Iwasincludedintheinvitation，andZaira，notunderstandingFrench，askedmewhatweweretalkingabout，andonmytellingherexpressedadesiretoaccompanyme。Igaveintoappeaseher，forI
knewthewishproceededfromjealousy，andthatifIdidnotconsentIshouldbetormentedbytears，ill—humour，reproaches，melancholy，etc。Thishadoccurredseveraltimesbefore，andsoviolenthadshebeenthatIhadbeencompelledtoconformtothecustomofthecountryandbeather。Strangetosay，Icouldnothavetakenabetterwaytoprovemylove。SuchisthecharacteroftheRussianwomen。Aftertheblowshadbeengiven，byslowdegreesshebecameaffectionateagain，andaloveencountersealedthereconciliation。
Bombackleftustomakehispreparationsinhighspirits，andwhileZairawasdressing，MadameRivieretalkedinsuchamannerastomakemealmostthinkthatIwasabsolutelydeficientinknowledgeoftheworld。Theastonishingthingwasthatherloverdidnotseemintheleastashamedoftheparthehadtoplay。HemightsaythathewasinlovewiththeMessalina，buttheex。cusewouldnothavebeenadmissible。
Thepartywasamerryone。Bombacktalkedtotheadventuress，Zairasatonmyknee，andCrevecoeurateanddrank，laughedinseasonandoutofseason，andwalkedupanddown。ThecraftyMadameRiviereincitedBombacktorisktwenty—fiveroublesatquinze；helostandpaidpleasantly，andonlygotakissforhismoney。Zaira，whowasdelightedtobeabletowatchovermeandmyfidelity，jestedpleasantlyontheFrenchwomanandthecomplaisanceofherlover。
Thiswasaltogetherbeyondhercomprehension，andshecouldnotunderstandhowhecouldbearsuchdeedsasweredonebeforehisface。
ThenextdayIwenttoBombackbymyself，asIwassureofmeetingyoungRussianofficers，whowouldhaveannoyedmebymakinglovetoZairaintheirownlanguage。IfoundthetwotravellersandthebrothersLunin，thenlieutenantsbutnowgenerals。Theyoungerofthemwasasfairandprettyasanygirl。HehadbeenthebelovedoftheministerTeploff，and，likealadofwit，henotonlywasnotashamedbutopenlyboastedthatitwashiscustomtosecurethegood—
willofallmenbyhiscaresses。
HehadimaginedtherichcitizenofHamburgtobeofthesametastesasTeploff，andhehadnotbeenmistaken；andsohedegradedmebyformingthesamesupposition。Withthisideaheseatedhimselfnexttomeattable，andbehavedhimselfinsuchamannerduringdinnerthatIbegantobelievehimtobeagirlinman’sclothes。
Afterdinner，asIwassittingatthefire，betweenhimandtheFrenchman，Iimpartedmysuspicionstohim；butjealousofthesuperiorityofhissex，hedisplayedproofofitonthespot，andforthwithgotholdofmeandputhimselfinapositiontomakemyhappinessandhisownashecalledit。Iconfess，tomyshame，thathemightperhapshavesucceeded，ifMadamelaRiviere，indignantatthisencroachmentofherpeculiarprovince，hadnotmadehimdesist。
Lunintheelder，Crevecceur，andBomback，whohadbeenforawalk，returnedatnightfallwithtwoorthreefriends，andeasilyconsoledtheFrenchmanforthepoorentertainmenttheyoungerLuninandmyselfhadgivenhim。
Bombackheldabankatfaro，whichonlycametoanendateleven，whenthemoneywasallgone。Wethensupped，andtherealorgybegan，inwhichlaRiviereborethebruntinamannerthatwassimplyastonishing。IandmyfriendLuninweremerelyspectators，andpoorCrevecoeurhadgonetobed。Wedidnotseparatetillday—break。
Igothome，and，fortunatelyformyself，escapedthebottlewhichZairaflungatmyhead，andwhichwouldinfalliblyhavekilledmeifithadhitme。Shethrewherselfontotheground，andbegantostrikeitwithherforehead。Ithoughtshehadgonemad，andwonderedwhetherIhadbettercallforassistance；butshebecamequietenoughtocallmeassassinandtraitor，withalltheotherabusiveepithetsthatshecouldremember。Toconvictmeofmycrimesheshewedmetwenty—fivecards，placedinorder，andonthemshedisplayedthevariousenormitiesofwhichIhadbeenguilty。
Ilethergoontillherragewassomewhatexhausted，andthen，havingthrownherdiviningapparatusintothefire，Ilookedatherinpityandanger，andsaidthatwemustpartthenextday，asshehadnarrowlyescapedkillingme。IconfessedthatIhadbeenwithBomback，andthattherehadbeenagirlinthehouse；butIdeniedalltheothersinsofwhichsheaccusedme。Ithenwenttosleepwithouttakingtheslightestnoticeofher，inspiteofallshesaidanddidtoproveherrepentance。
Iwokeafterafewhourstofindhersleepingsoundly，andIbegantoconsiderhowIcouldbestridmyselfofthegirl，whowouldprobablykillmeifwecontinuedlivingtogether。WhilstIwasabsorbedinthesethoughtssheawoke，andfallingatmyfeetweptandprofessedherutterrepentance，andpromisednevertotouchanothercardaslongasIkepther。
AtlastIcouldresistherentreatiesnolonger，soItookherinmyarmsandforgaveher；andwedidnotparttillshehadreceivedundeniableproofsofthereturnofmyaffection。IintendedtostartforMoscowinthreedays，andshewasdelightedwhensheheardshewastogo。
Threecircumstanceshadwonmethisyounggirl’sfuriousaffection。
InthefirstplaceIoftentookhertoseeherfamily，withwhomI
alwaysleftarouble；inthesecondImadehereatwithme；andinthethirdIhadbeatenherthreeorfourtimeswhenshehadtriedtopreventmegoingout。
InRussiabeatingisamatterofnecessity，forwordshavenoforcewhatever。Aservant，mistress，orcourtezanunderstandsnothingbutthelash。Wordsarealtogetherthrownaway，butafewgoodstrokesareentirelyefficacious。Theservant，whosesoulisstillmoreenslavedthanhisbody，reasonssomewhatasfollows，afterhehashadabeating:
"Mymasterhasnotsentmeaway，butbeatenme；thereforehelovesme，andIoughttobeattachedtohim。"
ItisthesamewiththeRussiansoldier，andinfactwitheverybody。
Honourstandsfornothing，butwiththeknoutandbrandyonecangetanythingfromthemexceptheroicalenthusiasm。
PapanelopulolaughedatmewhenIsaidthatasIlikedmyCossackI
shouldendeavourtocorrecthimwithwordsonlywhenhetooktoomuchbrandy。
"Ifyoudonotbeathim，"hesaid，"hewillendbybeatingyou；"andhespokethetruth。
Oneday，whenhewassodrunkastobeunabletoattendonme，I
begantoscoldhim，andthreatenedhimwiththestickifhedidnotmendhisways。Assoonashesawmycanelifted，heranatmeandgotholdofit；andifIhadnotknockedhimdownimmediately，hewoulddoubtlesshavebeatenme。Idismissedhimonthespot。ThereisnotabetterservantintheworldthanaRussian。Heworkswithoutceasing，sleepsinfrontofthedoorofhismaster’sbedroomtobealwaysreadytofulfilhisorders，neveransweringhisreproaches，incapableoftheft。Butafterdrinkingalittletoomuchbrandyhebecomesaperfectmonster；anddrunkennessistheviceofthewholenation。
Acoachmanknowsnootherwayofresistingthebittercoldtowhichheisexposed，thanbydrinkingryebrandy。Itsometimeshappensthathedrinkstillhefallsasleep，andthenthereisnoawakingforhiminthisworld。Unlessoneisverycareful，itiseasytoloseanear，thenose，acheek，oralipbyfrostbites。OnedayasIwaswalkingoutonabitterlycoldday，aRussiannoticedthatoneofmyearswasfrozen。Heranuptomeandrubbedtheaffectedpartwithahandfulofsnowtillthecirculationwasrestored。Iaskedhimhowhehadnoticedmystate，andhesaidhehadremarkedthelividwhitenessofmyear，andthis，hesaid，wasalwaysasignthatthefrosthadtakenit。Whatsurprisedmemostofallisthatsometimesthepartgrowsagainafterithasdroppedoff。PrinceCharlesofCourlandassuredmethathehadcosthisnoseinSiberia，andthatithadgrownagainthenextsummer。IhavebeenassuredofthetruthofthisbyseveralRussians。
AboutthistimetheempressmadethearchitectRinaldi，whohadbeenfiftyyearsinSt。Petersburg，buildheranenormouswoodenamphitheatresolargeastocoverthewholeofthespaceinfrontofthepalace。Itwouldcontainahundredthousandspectators，andinitCatherineintendedtogiveavasttournamenttoalltheknightsofherempire。Thereweretobefourpartiesofahundredknightseach，andallthecavaliersweretobecladinthenationalcostumeofthenationstheyrepresented。AlltheRussianswereinformedofthisgreatfestival，whichwastobegivenattheexpenseofthesovereign，andtheprinces，counts，andbaronswerealreadyarrivingwiththeirchargersfromthemostremotepartsoftheempire。PrinceCharlesofCourlandwroteinformingmeofhisintentiontobepresent。
Ithadbeenordained，thatthetournamentshouldtakeplaceonthefirstfineday，andthisprecautionwasaverywiseone；for，exceptingintheseasonofthehardfrosts，adaywithoutrain，orsnow，orwind，isamarvel。InItaly，Spain，andFrance，onecanreckononfineweather，andbadweatheristheexception，butitisquitethecontraryinRussia。EversinceIhaveknownthishomeoffrostandthecoldnorthwind，IlaughwhenIheartravellingRussianstalkingofthefineclimateoftheirnativecountry。
However，itisapardonableweakness，mostofusprefer"mine"to"thine；"noblesaffecttoconsiderthemselvesofpurerbloodthanthepeasantsfromwhomtheysprang，andtheRomansandotherancientnationspretendedthattheywerethechildrenofthegods，todrawaveilovertheiractualancestorswhoweredoubtlessrobbers。Thetruthis，thatduringthewholeyear1756therewasnotonefinedayinRussia，orinIngriaatallevents，andthemereproofsofthisstatementmaybefoundinthefactthatthetournamentwasnotheldinthatyear。Itwaspostponedtillthenext，andtheprinces，counts，barons，andknightsspentthewinterinthecapital，unlesstheirpursesforbadethemtoindulgeintheluxuriesofCourtlife。
ThedearPrinceofCourlandwasinthiscase，tomygreatdisappointment。
HavingmadeallarrangementsformyjourneytoMoscow，IgotintomysleepingcarriagewithZaira，havingaservantbehindwhocouldspeakbothRussianandGerman。Fortwenty—fourroublesthechevochic（hireroutofhorses）engagedtocarrymetoMoscowinsixdaysandsevennightswithsixhorses。Thisstruckmeasbeingextremelycheap。Thedistanceisseventy—twoRussianstages，almostequivalenttofivehundredItalianmiles，orahundredandsixtyFrenchleagues。
Wesetoutjustasacannonshotfromthecitadelannouncedthecloseofday。ItwastowardstheendofMay，inwhichmonththereisliterallynonightatSt。Petersburg。Withoutthereportofthecannonnoonewouldbeabletotellwhenthedayendedandthenightbegan。Onecanreadaletteratmidnight，andthemoonlightmakesnoappreciabledifference。Thiscontinualdaylastsforeightweeks，andduringthattimenoonelightsacandle。AtMoscowitisdifferent；acandleisalwaysnecessaryatmidnightifonewishedtoread。
WereachedNovgorodinforty—eighthours，andherethechevochicallowedusarestoffivehours。Isawacircumstancetherewhichsurprisedmeverymuch，thoughonehasnobusinesstobesurprisedatanythingifonetravelsmuch，andespeciallyinalandofhalfsavages。Iaskedthechevochictodrink，butheappearedtobeingreatmelancholy。Ienquiredwhatwasthematter，andhetoldZairathatoneofhishorseshadrefusedtoeat，andthatitwasclearthatifhecouldnoteathecouldnotwork。Wefollowedhimintothestable，andfoundthehorselookingoppressedbycare，itsheadloweredandmotionless；ithadevidentlygotnoappetite。Hismasterbeganapatheticoration，lookingtenderlyattheanimal，asiftoarouseittoasenseofduty，andthentakingitshead，andkissingitlovingly，heputitintothemanger，buttonopurpose。Thenthemanbegantoweepbitterly，butinsuchawaythatIhadthegreatestdifficultytopreventmyselflaughing，forIcouldseethatheweptinthehopethathistearsmightsoftenthebrute’sheart。Whenhehadweptsometimeheagainputthehorse’sheadintothemanger，butagaintonopurpose。Atthishegotfuriousandsworetobeavenged。
Heledthehorseoutofthestable，tiedittoapost，andbeatitwithathickstickforaquarterofanhoursoviolentlythatmyheartbledforthepooranimal。Atlastthechevochicwastiredout，andtakingthehorsebacktothestablehefasteneduphisheadoncemore，andtomyastonishmentitbegantodevouritsprovenderwiththegreatestappetite。Atthisthemasterjumpedforjoy，laughed，sang，andcommittedathousandextravagancies，asiftoshewthehorsehowhappyithadmadehim。Iwasbesidemyselfwithastonishment，andconcludedthatsuchtreatmentwouldhavesucceedednowherebutinRussia，wherethestickseemstobethepanaceaoruniversalmedicine。
Theytellme，however，thatthestickisgraduallygoingoutoffashion。PetertheGreatusedtobeathisgeneralsblackandblue，andinhisdaysalieutenanthadtoreceivewithallsubmissionthecuffsofhiscaptain，whobentbeforetheblowsofhismajor，whodidthesametohiscolonel，whoreceivedchastisementfromhisgeneral。
SoIwasinformedbyoldGeneralWoyakoff，whowasapupilofPetertheGreat，andhadoftenbeenbeatenbythegreatemperor，thefounderofSt。Petersburg。
ItseemstomethatIhavescarcelysaidanythingaboutthisgreatandfamouscapital，whichinmyopinionisbuiltonsomewhatprecariousfoundations。NoonebutPetercouldhavethusgiventhelietoNaturebybuildinghisimmensepalacesofmarbleandgraniteonmudandshiftingsand。Theytellmethatthetownisnowinitsmanhood，tothehonourofthegreatCatherine；butintheyear1765
itwasstillinitsminority，andseemedtomeonlytohavebeenbuiltwiththechildishaimofseeingitfallintoruins。Streetswerebuiltwiththecertaintyofhavingtorepairtheminsixmonths’
time。Thewholeplaceproclaimeditselftobethewhimofadespot。
Ifitistobedurableconstantcarewillberequired，fornaturenevergivesupitsrightsandreassertsthemwhentheconstraintofmaniswithdrawn。Mytheoryisthatsoonerorlaterthesoilmustgivewayanddragthevastcitywithit。
WereachedMoscowinthetimethechevochichadpromised。Asthesamehorseswereusedforthewholejourney，itwouldhavebeenimpossibletotravelmotequickly。ARussiantoldmethattheEmpressElizabethhaddonethejourneyinfifty—twohours。
"Youmeanthatsheissuedaukasetotheeffectthatshehaddoneit，"saidaRussianoftheoldschool；"andifshehadlikedshecouldhavetravelledmorequicklystill；itwasonlyaquestionofthewordingoftheukase。"
EvenwhenIwasinRussiaitwasnotallowabletodoubttheinfallibilityofaukase，andtodosowas，equivalenttohightreason。OnedayIwascrossingacanalatSt。Petersburgbyasmallwoodenbridge；MelissinoPapanelopulo，andsomeotherRussianswerewithme。Ibegantoabusethewoodenbridge，whichIcharacterizedasbothmeananddangerous。Oneofmycompanionssaidthatonsuchadayitwouldbereplacedbyafinestonebridge，astheempresshadtopassthereonsomestateoccasion。Thedaynamedwaythreeweeksoff，andIsaidplainlythatitwasimpossible。OneoftheRussianslookedaskanceatme，andsaidtherewasnodoubtaboutit，asaukasehadbeenpublishedorderingthatthebridgeshouldbebuilt。I
wasgoingtoanswerhim，butPapanelopulogavemyhandasqueeze，andwhispered"Taci！"（hush）。
Thebridgewasnotbuilt，butIwasnotjustified，fortheempresspublishedanotherukaseinwhichshedeclaredittobehergraciouspleasurethatthebridgeshouldnotbebuilttillthefollowingyear。
Ifanyonewouldseewhatapuredespotismislike，lethimgotoRussia。
TheRussiansovereignsusethelanguageofdespotismonalloccasions。OnedayIsawtheempress，dressedinman’sclothes，goingoutforaride。Hermasterofthehorse，PrinceRepnin，heldthebridleofthehorse，whichsuddenlygavehimakickwhichbrokehisanklebone。Theempressinstantlyordainedthatthehorseshouldbetakenaway，andthatnooneshouldmountitagainunderpainofdeath。AllofficialpositionsinRussiahavemilitaryrankassignedtothem，andthissufficientlyindicatesthenatureoftheGovernment。Thecoachman—in—chiefofherimperialhighnessholdstherankofcolonel，asalsodoesherchiefcook。ThecastratoLuiniwasalieutenant—colonel，andthepainterTorettionlyacaptain，becausehehadonlyeighthundredroublesayear，whilethecoachmanhadthreethousand。Thesentinelsatthedoorsofthepalacehavetheirmusketscrossed，andaskthosewhowishtopassthroughwhatistheirrank。WhenIwasaskedthisquestion，Istoppedshort；butthequick—wittedofficeraskedmehowmuchIhadayear，andonmyreplying，atahazard，threethousandroubles，hegavemetherankofgeneral，andIwasallowedtopass。Isawtheczarinaforamoment；
shestoppedatthedoorandtookoffherglovestogiveherhandstobekissedbytheofficerandthetwosentinels。Bysuchmeansasthisshehadwontheaffectionofthecorps，commandedbyGregoriusGregorovitchOrloff，onwhichhersafetydependedincaseofrevolution。
ImadethefollowingnoteswhenIsawtheempresshearingmassinherchapel。Theprotopapa，orbishop，receivedheratthedoortogivehertheholywater，andshekissedhisepiscopalring，whiletheprelate，whosebeardwasacoupleoffeetinlength，loweredhisheadtokissthehandsofhistemporalsovereignandspiritualhead，forinRussiatheheorsheonthethroneisthespiritualaswellastemporalheadoftheChurch。
Shedidnotevidencetheleastdevotionduringmass；hypocrisydidnotseemtobeoneofhervices。Nowshesmiledatoneofhersuite，nowatanother，andoccasionallysheaddressedthefavourite，notbecauseshehadanythingtosaytohim，buttomakehimanobjectofenvytotheothers。
Oneevening，asshewasleavingthetheatrewhereMetastasio’sOlympiadehadbeenperformed，Iheardhersay，——
"Themusicofthatoperahasgiventhegreatestpleasuretoeveryone，soofcourseIamdelightedwithit；butitweariesme，nevertheless。
Musicisafinething，butIcannotunderstandhowanyonewhoisseriouslyoccupiedcanloveitpassionately。IwillhaveBuranellohere，andIwonderwhetherhewillinterestmeinmusic，butIamafraidnaturedidnotconstitutemetofeelallitscharms。"
Shealwaysarguedinthatway。InduetimeIwillsetdownherwordstomewhenIreturnedfromMoscow。WhenIarrivedatthatcityIgotdownatagoodinn，wheretheygavemetworoomsandacoach—houseformycarriage。AfterdinnerIhiredasmallcarriageandaguidewhocouldspeakFrench。Mycarriagewasdrawnbyfourhorses，forMoscowisavastcitycomposedoffourdistincttowns，andmanyofthestreetsareroughandill—paved。Ihadfiveorsixlettersofintroduction，andIdeterminedtotakethemall。ItookZairawithme，asshewasascurioustoseeeverythingasagirloffourteennaturallyis。IdonotrememberwhatfeasttheGreekChurchwaskeepingonthatday，butIshallneverforgettheterrificbell—
ringingwithwhichmyearswereassailed，fortherearechurcheseverywhere。Thecountrypeoplewereengagedinsowingtheirgrain，toreapitinSeptember。TheylaughedatourSoutherncustomofsowingeightmonthsearlier，asunnecessaryandevenprejudicialtothecrops，butIdonotknowwheretherightlies。Perhapswemaybothberight，forthereisnomastertocomparewithexperience。
ItookalltheintroductionsIhadreceivedfromNarischkin，PrinceRepnin，theworthyPananelopulo，andMelissino’sbrother。ThenextmorningthewholeofthepersonsatwhosehousesIhadleftletterscalledonme。TheyallaskedZairaandmyselftodinner，andI
acceptedtheinvitationofthefirstcomer，M。Dinidoff，andpromisedtodinewiththerestonthefollowingdays，Zaira，whohadbeentutoredbymetosomeextent，wasdelightedtoshewmethatshewasworthyofthepositionsheoccupied。Shewasexquisitelydressed，andwongoldenopinionseverywhere，forourhostsdidnotcaretoenquirewhethersheweremydaughter，mymistress，ormyservant，forinthismatter，asinmanyothers，theRussiansareexcessivelyindulgent。ThosewhohavenotseenMoscowhavenotseenRussia，forthepeopleofSt，PetersburgarenotreallyRussiansatall。Theircourtmannersareverydifferentfromtheirmanners’aunaturel’，anditmaybesaidwithtruththatthetrueRussianisasastrangerinSt。Petersburg。Thecitizensof，Moscow，andespeciallytherichones，speakwithpityofthose，whoforonereasonoranother，hadexpatriatedthemselves；andwiththemtoexpatriateone’sselfistoleaveMoscow，whichtheyconsiderastheirnativeland。TheylookonSt。Petersburgwithanenviouseve，andcallittheruinofRussia。
Idonotknowwhetherthisisajustviewtotakeofthecase，I
merelyrepeatwhatIhaveheard。
InthecourseofaweekIsawallthesightsofMoscow——themanufacturers，thechurches，theremainsoftheolddays，themuseums，thelibraries，（ofnointeresttomymind），notforgettingthefamousbell。Inoticedthattheirbellsarenotallowedtoswinglikeours，butaremotionless，beingrungbyaropeattachedtotheclapper。
IthoughttheMoscowwomenmorehandsomethanthoseofSt。
Petersburg，andIattributethistothegreatsuperiorityoftheair。
Theyaregentleandaccessiblebynature；andtoobtainthefavourofakissonthelips，oneneedonlymakeashowofkissingtheirhands。
Therewasgoodfareinplenty，butnodelicacyinitscompositionorarrangement。Theirtableisalwaysopentofriendsandacquaintances，andafriendmaybringtofiveorsixpersonstodinner，andevenattheendofthemealsyouwillneverhearaRussiansay，"Wehavehaddinner；youhavecometoolate。"Theirsoulsarenotblackenoughforthemtopronouncesuchwordsasthis。
Noticeisgiventothecook，andthedinnerbeginsoveragain。Theyhaveadeliciousdrink，thenameofwhichIdonotremember；butitismuchsuperiortothesherbetofConstantinople。Thenumerousservantsarenotgivenwater，butalight，nourishing，andagreeablefluid，whichmaybepurchasedverycheaply。TheyallholdSt。
Nicholasinthegreatestreverence，onlyprayingtoGodthroughthemediationofthissaint，whosepictureisalwayssuspendedintheprincipalroomofthehouse。Apersoncominginmakesfirstabowtotheimageandthenabowtothemaster，andifperchancetheimageisabsent，theRussian，aftergazingallround，standsconfusedandmotionless，notknowingwhattodo。AsageneralruletheMuscovitesarethemostsuperstitiousChristiansintheworld。TheirliturgyisinGreek，ofwhichthepeopleunderstandnothing，andtheclergy，themselvesextremelyignorant，gladlyleavethemcompletelyinthedarkonallmattersconnectedwithreligion。IcouldnevermakethemunderstandthattheonlyreasonfortheRomanChristiansmakingthesignoftheCrossfromlefttoright，whiletheGreeksmakeitfromrighttoleft，isthatwesay’spiritussancti’，whiletheysay’agionpneuma’。
"Ifyousaidpneumaagion，"Iusedtosay，"thenyouwouldcrossyourselflikeus，andifwesaidsanctispiritusweshouldcrossourselveslikeyou。"
"Theadjective，"repliedmyinterlocutor，"shouldalwaysprecedethesubstantive，forweshouldneverutterthenameofGodwithoutfirstgivingHimsomehonourableepithet。"
Sucharenearlyallthedifferenceswhichdividethetwochurches，withoutreckoningthenumerousidletaleswhichtheyhaveaswellasourselves，andwhicharebynomeanstheleastcherishedarticlesoftheirfaith。
WereturnedtoSt。Petersburgbythewaywehadcome，butZairawouldhavelikedmenevertoleaveMoscow。ShehadbecomesomuchinlovewithmebyforceofconstantassociationthatIcouldnotthinkwithoutapangofthemomentofseparation。ThedayafterourarrivalinthecapitalItookhertoherhome，wheresheshewedherfatherallthelittlepresentsIhadgivenher，andtoldhimofthehonourshehadreceivedasmydaughter，whichmadethegoodmanlaughheartily。
ThefirstpieceofnewsIheardwasthataukasehadbeenissued，orderingtheerectionofatemplededicatedtoGodintheMoscoioppositetothehousewhereIresided。TheempresshadentrustedRinaldi，thearchitect，withtheerection。Heaskedherwhatemblemheshouldputabovetheportal，andshereplied，——
"Noemblematall，onlythenameofGodinlargeletters。"
"Iwillputatriangle。"
"Notriangleatall；butonlythenameofGodinwhateverlanguageyoulike，andnothingmore。"
ThesecondpieceofnewswasthatBombackhadfledandhadbeencapturedatMitau，wherehebelievedhimselfinsafety。M。deSimoliahadarrestedhim。Itwasagravecase，forhehaddeserted；
however，hewasgivenhislife，andsentintobarracksatKamstchatka。Crevecoeurandhismistresshaddeparted，carryingsomemoneywiththem，andaFlorentineadventurernamedBillottihadfledwitheighteenthousandroublesbelongingtoPapanelopulo，butacertainBori，theworthyGreek’sfactotum，hadcaughthimatMitauandbroughthimbacktoSt。Petersburg，wherehewasnowinprison。
PrinceCharlesofCourlandarrivedaboutthistime，andIhastenedtocalluponhimassoonasheadvisedmeofhiscoming。HewaslodginginahousebelongingtoCountDimidoff，whoownedlargeironmines，andhadmadethewholehouseofiron，fromattictobasement。Theprincehadbroughthismistresswithhim，butshewasstillinanill—humour，andhewasbeginningtogetheartilysickofher。Themanwastobepitied，forhecouldnotgetridofherwithoutfindingherahusband，andthishusbandbecamemoredifficulttofindeveryday。WhentheprincesawhowhappyIwaswithmyZaira，hecouldnothelpthinkinghoweasilyhappinessmaybewon；butthefataldesireforluxuryandemptyshowspoilsall，andrenderstheverysweetsoflifeasbitterasgall。
Iwasindeedconsideredhappy，andIlikedtoappearso，butinmyheartIwaswretched。EversincemyimprisonmentunderTheLeads，I
hadbeensubjecttohaemorrhoids，whichcameonthreeorfourtimesayear。AtSt。PetersburgIhadaseriousattack，andthedailypainandanxietyembitteredmyexistence。AvegetariandoctorcalledSenapios，forwhomIhadsent，gavemethesadnewsthatIhadablindorincompletefistulaintherectum，andaccordingtohimnothingbutthecruelpistourywouldgivemeanyrelief，andindeedhesaidIhadnotimetolose。Ihadtoagree，inspiteofmydisliketotheoperation；butfortunatelythecleversurgeonwhomthedoctorsummonedpronouncedthatifIwouldhavepatiencenatureitselfwouldgivemerelief。Ihadmuchtoendure，especiallyfromtheseveredietingtowhichIwassubjected，butwhichdoubtlessdidmegood。
ColonelMelissinoaskedmetobepresentatareviewwhichwastotakeplaceatthreeverstsfromSt。Petersburg，andwastobesucceededbyadinnertotwenty—fourguests，givenbyGeneralOrloff。
Iwentwiththeprince，andsawacannonfiredtwentytimesinaminute，testingtheperformancewithmywatch。
MyneighbouratdinnerwastheFrenchambassador。Wishingtodrinkdeeply，aftertheRussianfashion，andthinkingtheHungarianwineasinnocentaschampagne，hedranksobravelythatattheendofdinnerhehadlosttheuseofhislegs。CountOrloffmadehimdrinkstillmore，andthenhefellasleepandwaslaidonabed。
ThegaietyofthemealgavemesomeideaofRussianwit。Ididnotunderstandthelanguage，soM。Zinowiefftranslatedthecurioussalliestomewhiletheapplausetheyhadraisedwasstillresounding。
Melissinorosetohisfeet，holdingalargegobletfullofHungarianwineinhishand。Therewasageneralsilencetolistentohim。HedrankthehealthofGeneralOrloffinthesewords:
"Mayyoudiewhenyoubecomerich。"
Theapplausewasgeneral，fortheallusionwastotheunboundedgenerosityofOrloff。Thegeneral’sreplystruckmeasbetterstill，butitwasequallyruggedincharacter。He，too，tookafullcup，andturningtoMelissino，said，"MayyouneverdietillIslayyou！"
Theapplausewasfurious，forhewastheirhostandtheirgeneral。
TheRussianwitisoftheenergetickind，devoidofgrace；alltheycareaboutisdirectnessandvigour。
Voltairehadjustsenttheempresshis"PhilosophyofHistory，"whichhehadwrittenforheranddedicatedtoher。Amonthafter，aneditionofthreethousandcopiescamebysea，andwassoldoutinaweek，foralltheRussianswhoknewalittleFrenchwereeagertopossessacopyofthework。TheleadersoftheVoltaireansweretwonoblemen，named，respectively，StroganoffandSchuvaloff。IhaveseenverseswrittenbytheformeroftheseasgoodasVoltaire’sownverses，andtwentyyearslaterIsawanodebythelatterofwhichVoltairewouldnothavebeenashamed，butthesubjectwasillchosen；
forittreatedofthedeathofthegreatphilosopherwhohadsostudiouslyavoidedusinghispenonmelancholythemes。InthosedaysallRussianswithanypretensionstoliteraturereadnothingbutVoltaire，andwhentheyhadreadallhiswritingstheythoughtthemselvesaswiseastheirmaster。Tometheyseemedpigmiesmimickingagiant。ItoldthemthattheyoughttoreadallthebooksfromwhichVoltairehaddrawnhisimmenselearning，andthen，perhaps，theymightbecomeaswiseashe。IrememberthesayingofawisemanatRome:"Bewareofthemanofonebook。"IwonderwhethertheRussiansaremoreprofoundnow；butthatisaquestionIcannotanswer。AtDresdenIknewPrinceBiloselski，whowasonhiswaybacktoRussiaafterhavingbeenambassadoratTurin。Hewastheauthorofanadmirableworldonmetaphysics，andtheanalysisofthesoulandreason。
CountPaninwasthetutorofPaulPetrovitch，heir—presumptivetothethrone。Theyoungprincehadaseveremaster，anddarednotevenapplaudanairattheoperaunlesshefirstreceivedpermissiontodosofromhismentor。
WhenacourierbroughtthenewsofthesuddendeathofFrancisI。，EmperorofGermanyandoftheHolyRomanEmpire，theczarinabeingatCzarsko—Zelo，thecountminister—tutorwasinthepalacewithhispupil，thenelevenyearsold。Thecouriercameatnoon，andgavethedispatchintothehandsoftheminister，whowasstandinginthemidstofacrowdofcourtiersofwhomIwasone。Theprinceimperialwasathisrighthand。Theministerreadthedispatchinalowvoice，andthensaid:
"Thisisnewsindeed。TheEmperoroftheRomanshasdiedsuddenly。"
HethenturnedtoPaul，andsaidtohim，——
"Fullcourtmourning，whichyourhighnesswillobserveforthreemonthslongerthantheempress。"
"Whyso？"saidPaul。
"Because，asDukeofHolstein，yourhighnesshasarighttoattendthedietoftheempire，aprivilege，"headded，turningtous，"whichPetertheGreatdesiredinvain。"
InotedtheattentionwithwhichtheGrandDukePaullistenedtohismentor，andthecarewithwhichheconcealedhisjoyatthenews。I
wasimmenselypleasedwiththiswayofgivinginstruction。IsaidasmuchtoPrinceLobkowitz，whowasstandingbyme，andherefinedonmypraises。Thisprincewaspopularwitheveryone。Hewasevenpreferredtohispredecessor，PrinceEsterhazy；andthiswassayingagreatdeal，forEsterhazywasadoredinRussia。ThegayandaffablemannerofPrinceLobkowitzmadehimthelifeandsoulofallthepartiesatwhichhewaspresent。HewasaconstantcourtieroftheCountessBraun，thereigningbeauty，andeveryonebelievedhislovehadbeencrownedwithsuccess，thoughnoonecouldassertasmuchpositively。
TherewasagreatreviewheldatadistanceoftwelveorfourteenverstsfromSt。Petersburg，atwhichtheempressandallhertrainofcourtierswerepresent。Thehousesofthetwoorthreeadjoiningvillagesweresofewandsmallthatitwouldbeimpossibleforallthecompanytofindalodging。NeverthelessIwishedtobepresentchieflytopleaseZaira，whowantedtobeseenwithmeonsuchanoccasion。Thereviewwastolastthreedays；thereweretobefireworks，andaminewastobeexplodedbesidestheevolutionsofthetroops。Iwentinmytravellingcarriage，whichwouldservemeforalodgingifIcouldgetnothingbetter。
Wearrivedattheappointedplaceateighto’clockinthemorning；
theevolutionslastedtillnoon。Whentheywereoverwewenttowardsatavernandhadourmealservedtousinthecarriage，asalltheroomsintheinnwerefull。
Afterdinnermycoachmantriedinvaintofindmealodging，soI
disposedmyselftosleepallnightinthecarriage；andsoIdidforthewholetimeofthereview，andfaredbetterthanthosewhohadspentsomuchmoneytobeilllodged。Melissinotoldmethattheempressthoughtmyideaaverysensibleone。AsIwastheonlypersonwhohadasleepingcarriage，whichwasquiteaportablehouseinitself，Ihadnumerousvisitors，andZairawasradianttobeabletodothehonours。
IhadagooddealofconversationduringthereviewwithCountTott，brotherofthenoblemanwhowasemployedatConstantinople，andknownasBaronTott。WehadknowneachotheratParis，andafterwardsattheHague，whereIhadthepleasureofbeingofservicetohim。HehadcometoSt。PetersburgwithMadamedeSoltikoff，whomhehadmetatParis，andwhoseloverhewas。Helivedwithher，wenttoCourt，andwaswellreceivedbyeveryone。
Twoorthreeyearsafter，theempressorderedhimtoleaveSt。
PetersburgonaccountofthetroublesinPoland。Itwassaidthathekeptupacorrespondencewithhisbrother，whowasendeavouringtointerceptthefleetunderthecommandofAlexisOrloff。IneverheardwhatbecameofhimafterheleftRussia，whereheobligedmewiththeloanoffivehundredroubles，whichIhavenotyetbeenabletoreturntohim。
M。Maruzzi，bycallingaVenetianmerchant，andbybirthaGreek，havinglefttradetolivelikeagentleman，cametoSt。PetersburgwhenIwasthere，andwaspresentedatCourt。Hewasafine—lookingman，andwasadmittedtoallthegreathouses。TheempresstreatedhimwithdistinctionbecauseshehadthoughtsofmakinghimheragentatVenice。HepaidhiscourttotheCountessBraun，buthehadrivalstherewhowerenotafraidofhim。Hewasrichenough，butdidnotknowhowtospendhismoney；andavariceisasinwhichmeetswithnopityfromtheRussianladies。
IwenttoCzarsko—Zelo，Peterhoff，andCronstadt，forifyouwanttosayyouhavebeeninacountryyoushouldseeasmuchaspossibleofit。Iwrotenotesandmemorandumsonseveralquestionswiththehopeoftheirprocuringmeaplaceinthecivilservice，andallmyproductionswerelaidbeforetheempressbutwithnoeffect。InRussiatheydonotthinkmuchofforeignersunlesstheyhavespeciallysummonedthem；thosewhocomeoftheirownaccountrarelymakemuch，andIsuspecttheRussiansareright。