THEworkentitled"TheAlbertN'yanzaGreatBasinoftheNile，"
publishedin1866，hasgivenanaccountoftheequatoriallakesystemfromwhichtheEgyptianriverderivesitssource。IthasbeendeterminedbythejointexplorationsofSpeke，Grant，andmyself，thattherainfalloftheequatorialdistrictssuppliestwovastlakes，theVictoriaandtheAlbert，ofsufficientvolumetosupporttheNilethroughoutitsentirecourseofthirtydegreesoflatitude。Thustheparentstream，fedbynever-failingreservoirs，suppliedbythetenmonths'rainfalloftheequator，rollssteadilyonitswaythrougharidsandsandburningdesertsuntilitreachestheDeltaofLowerEgypt。
ItwouldatfirstsightappearthatthediscoveryofthelakesourcesoftheNilehadcompletelysolvedthemysteryofages，andthatthefertilityofEgyptdependedupontherainfalloftheequatorconcentratedinthelakesVictoriaandAlbert。buttheexplorationoftheNiletributariesofAbyssiniadividestheNilesystemintotwoproportions，andunravelstheentiremysteryoftheriver，byassigningtoeachitsdueshareinministeringtotheprosperityofEgypt。
ThelakesourcesofCentralAfricasupportthelifeofEgypt，bysupplyingastream，throughoutallseasons，thathassufficientvolumetosupporttheexhaustionofevaporationandabsorption。
butthisstream，ifunaided，couldneveroverflowitsbanks，andEgypt，thusdeprivedoftheannualinundation，wouldsimplyexist，andcultivationwouldbeconfinedtotheclosevicinityoftheriver。
Theinundation，whichbyitsannualdepositofmudhasactuallycreatedtheDeltaofLowerEgypt，upontheoverflowofwhichthefertilityofEgyptdepends，hasanoriginentirelyseparatefromthelake-sourcesofCentralAfrica，andthesupplyofwaterisderivedexclusivelyfromAbyssinia。
ThetwograndaffluentsofAbyssiniaare，theBlueNileandtheAtbara，whichjointhemainstreamrespectivelyinN。lat。15
degrees30minutesand17degrees37minutes。Theserivers，althoughstreamsofextremegrandeurduringtheperiodoftheAbyssinianrains，fromthemiddleofJuneuntilSeptember，arereducedduringthedrymonthstoutterinsignificance。theBlueNilebecomingsoshallowastobeunnavigable，andtheAtbaraperfectlydry。AtthattimethewatersupplyofAbyssiniahavingceased，EgyptdependssolelyupontheequatoriallakesandtheaffluentsoftheWhiteNile，untiltherainyseasonshallagainhavefloodedthetwogreatAbyssinianarteries。Thatfloodoccurssuddenlyaboutthe20thofJune，andthegrandrushofwaterpouringdowntheBlueNileandtheAtbaraintotheparentchannel，inundatesLowerEgypt，andisthecauseofitsextremefertility。
NotonlyistheinundationtheeffectoftheAbyssinianrains，butthedepositofmudthathasformedtheDelta，andwhichisannuallyprecipitatedbytherisingwaters，isalsoduetotheAbyssinianstreams，moreespeciallytotheriverAtbara，which，knownastheBahrelAswatBlackRiver，carriesalargerproportionofsoilthananyothertributaryoftheNile。
therefore，totheAtbara，aboveallotherrivers，mustthewealthandfertilityofEgyptbeattributed。
Itmaythusbestated:TheequatoriallakesFEEDEgypt。buttheAbyssinianriversCAUSETHEINUNDATION。
ThisbeingaconcisesummaryoftheNilesystem，Ishalldescribetwelvemonths'exploration，duringwhichIexaminedeveryindividualriverthatistributarytotheNilefromAbyssinia，includingtheAtbara，Settite，Royan，Salaam，Angrab，Rahad，Dinder，andtheBlueNile。TheinterestattachedtotheseportionsofAfricadiffersentirelyfromthatoftheWhiteNileregions，asthewholeofUpperEgyptandAbyssiniaiscapableofdevelopment，andisinhabitedbyraceseitherMohammedanorChristian。whileCentralAfricaispeopledbyahopelessraceofsavages，forwhomthereisnoprospectofcivilization。
TheexplorationoftheNiletributariesofAbyssiniaoccupiedthefirsttwelvemonthsofmyjourneytowardstheNilesources。
Duringthistime，IhadtheopportunityoflearningArabicandofstudyingthecharacterofthepeople。bothnecessaryacquirements，whichledtomyultimatesuccessinreachingthe"AlbertN'yanza。"Asthereadersoftheworkofthattitleareaware，Iwasaccompaniedthroughouttheentirejourneybymywife，who，withextraordinaryhardihoodanddevotion，sharedeverydifficultywithwhichAfricantravelisbeset。
ABOVETHECATARACT。
WITHOUTtroublingthepublicwithadescriptionofthatportionoftheNiletothenorthofthefirstcataract，orwithadetailedaccountoftheEgyptianruins，thathavebeenvisitedbyathousandtourists，Iwillcommencebyafewextractsfrommyjournal，writtenatthecloseoftheboatvoyagefromCairo
"May8，1861——Noair。Thethermometer104degreesFahr……astiflingheat。Becalmed，wehavebeenlyingtheentiredaybelowtheruinsofPhilae。ThesearethemostimposingmonumentsoftheNile，owingtotheirpeculiarsituationuponarockyislandthatcommandsthepassageoftheriverabovethecataract。Thebanksofthestreamareherehemmedinbyrangesofhillsfrom100to250feethigh。theseareentirelydestituteofsoil，beingcomposedofenormousmassesofredgranite，piledblockuponblock，therudemasonryofNaturethathaswalledintheriver。
Thehollowsbetweenthehillsarechokedwithayellowsand，which，driftedbythewind，has，inmanyinstances，completelyfilledthenarrowvalleys。UponeithersideoftheNilearevestigesofancientforts。ThelandappearsasthoughitborethecurseofHeaven。misery，barrenness，andtheheatofafurnaceareitsfeatures。Theglowingrocks，devoidofatraceofvegetation，reflectthesunwithanintensitythatmustbefelttobeunderstood。Themiserablepeoplewhodwellinvillagesupontheriver'sbankssnatcheverysandbankfromtheretiringstream，andimmediatelyplanttheirscantygardenwithmelons，gourds，lentils，&c。thisbeingtheironlyresourceforcultivation。Notaninchofavailablesoilislost。butdaybyday，astheriverdecreases，freshrowsofvegetablesaresownuponthenewly-acquiredland。AtAssouan，thesandbanksarepurelysandbroughtdownbythecataracts，thereforesoilmustbeaddedtoenablethepeopletocultivate。Theydigearthfromtheruinsoftheancienttown。thistheyboatacrosstheriverandspreaduponthesandbank，bywhichexcessivelabourtheysecuresufficientmouldtosupporttheircrops。
InthevicinityofPhilaetheverybarrennessofthescenerypossessesacharm。Theiron-likesterilityofthegraniterocks，nakedexceptinspotswherethewindhassheetedthemwithsand。
thegrovesofpalmsspringingunexpectedlyintoviewinthisdesertwilderness，asasuddenbendoftheriverdiscoversavillage。theeverblueandnevercloudedskyabove，and，theonlyblessingofthisblightedland，theNile，silentlyflowingbetweenitssternwallsofrockstowardsthedistantlandofLowerEgypt，formatotalthatproducesascenetobemetwithnowherebutupontheNile。Inthismiserablespottheunfortunateinhabitantsaretaxedequallywiththoseofthericherdistricts——aboutfivepenceannuallyforeachdatepalm。
"May9——Agoodbreeze，buttremendousheat。Althoughthefloorandthecurtainsofthecabinarecontinuallywetted，andtheVenetianblindsareclosed，thethermometer，at4P。M。stoodat105degreesintheshade。andupondeck，137degreesinthesun。
Thisdaywepassedtheruinsofseveralsmalltemples。Thecountryisgenerallyrocky，withintervalsoftenortwelvemilesofdesertplains。
"May10——Finebreeze，theboatsailingwell。Passedseveralsmalltemples。Thehennagrowsinconsiderablequantitiesontheleftbankoftheriver。Theleafresemblesthatofthemyrtle。
theblossomhasapowerfulfragrance。itgrowslikeafeather，abouteighteenincheslong，formingaclusterofsmallyellowflowers。Thedaypleasantlycool。thermometer，95degrees。
"May11——At5A。M。wearrivedatKorosko。lat。22degrees50
minutesN。thehalting-placeforallvesselsfromLowerEgyptwithmerchandisefortheSoudan。"
AtthiswretchedspottheNileisdrearybeyonddescription，asavastdesert，unenlivenedbycultivation，formsitsborders，throughwhichthemelancholyriverrollstowardsLowerEgyptinthecloudlessglareofatropicalsun。Fromwhencecamethisextraordinarystreamthatcouldflowthroughtheseburningsandydeserts，unaidedbytributarychannels?Thatwasthemysteriousquestionaswesteppedupontheshorenow，tocommenceourlandjourneyinsearchofthedistantsources。Weclimbedthesteepsandybank，andsatdownbeneathasolitarysycamore。
Wehadbeentwenty-sixdayssailingfromCairotothispoint。Theboatreturned，andleftusontheeastbankoftheNile，withthegreatNubiandesertbeforeus。
Koroskoisnotrichinsupplies。AfewmiserableArabhuts，withtheusualfringeofdustydatepalms，composethevillage。themuddyriveristhefrontieronthewest，theburningdesertontheeast。Thushemmedin，Koroskoisanarrowstripofafewyards'widthonthemarginoftheNile，withonlyoneredeemingfeatureinitswretchedness——thegreenshadeoftheoldsycamorebeneathwhichwesat。
IhadafirmanfromtheViceroy，acook，andadragoman。Thusmyimpedimentawerenotnumerous。ThefirmanwasanordertoallEgyptianofficialsforassistance。thecookwasdirtyandincapable。andtheinterpreterwasnearlyignorantofEnglish，althoughaprofessedpolyglot。Withthissmallbeginning，Africawasbeforeme，andthusIcommencedthesearchfortheNilesources。Absurdasthismayappear，itwasacorrectcommencement。IgnorantofArabic，Icouldnothavecommandedalargeparty，whowouldhavebeenatthemercyoftheinterpreterordragoman。thus，thefirstqualificationnecessarytosuccesswasaknowledgeofthelanguage。
Afteradelayofsomedays，Iobtainedsixteencamelsfromthesheik。Ihadtakentheprecautiontoprovidewater-barrels，inadditiontotheusualgoat-skins。and，withatrustworthyguide，wequittedKoroskoonthe16thMay，1861，andlaunchedintothedesert。
TheroutefromKoroskoacrosstheNubiandesertcutsoffthechordofanarcmadebythegreatwesterlybendoftheNile。Thischordisabout230milesinlength。Throughoutthisbarrendesertthereisnowater，exceptatthehalf-waystation，Moorahdfrommoorra，bitter。this，althoughsaltandbitter，isrelishedbycamels。Duringthehotseasoninwhichweunfortunatelytravelled，theheatwasintense，thethermometerrangingfrom
degreesto114degreesFahr。intheshade。Theparchingblastofthesimoomwasofsuchexhaustingpower，thatthewaterrapidlyevaporatedfromtheclosedwater-skins。Itwas，therefore，necessarytosavethesupplybyaforcedmarchofsevendays，inwhichperiodweweretoaccomplishthedistance，andtoreachAbouHammed，onthesouthernbendofthewelcomeNile。
Duringthecoolmonths，fromNovemberuntilFebruary，thedesertjourneyisnotdisagreeable。butthevastareaofglowingsandexposedtothescorchingsunofsummer，inadditiontothewitheringbreathofthesimoom，renderstheforcedmarchof
milesinsevendays，attwoandahalfmilesperhour，themostfatiguingjourneythatcanbeendured。
FarewelltotheNile!Weturnedourbacksuponthelife-givingriver，andourcaravancommencedthesilentdesertmarch。
AfewhoursfromKoroskothemiseryofthescenesurpasseddescription。Glowinglikeafurnace，thevastextentofyellowsandstretchedtothehorizon。Rowsofbrokenhills，allofvolcanicorigin，broketheflatplain。Conicaltumuliofvolcanicslaghereandthererosetotheheightofseveralhundredfeet，andinthefardistanceresembledthePyramidsofLowerEgypt——doubtlesstheywerethemodelsforthatancientandeverlastingarchitecture。hillsofblackbasaltjuttedoutfromthebarrenbaseofsand，andthemoltenairquiveredontheoverheatedsurfaceofthefearfuldesert。114degreesFahr。intheshadeunderthewater-skins。137degreesinthesun。
Noiselesslythespongytreadofthecamelscreptalongthesand——theonlysoundwastherattleofsomelooselysecuredbaggageoftheirpacks。TheArabcamel-driversfollowedsilentlyatintervals，andhourbyhourwestruckdeeperintothesolitudeoftheNubiandesert。
Weenteredadeadlevelplainoforange-colouredsand，surroundedbypyramidicalhills:thesurfacewasstrewnwithobjectsresemblingcannonshotandgrapeofallsizesfroma32-pounderdownwards——thespotlookedliketheoldbattle-fieldofsomeinfernalregion。rocksglowingwithheat——notavestigeofvegetation——barren，witheringdesolation——Theslowrockingstepofthecamelswasmostirksome，anddespitetheheat，I
dismountedtoexaminetheSatanicbombsandcannonshot。Manyofthemwereasperfectlyroundasthoughcastinamould，otherswereegg-shaped，andallwerehollow。WithsomedifficultyI
brokethem，andfoundthemtocontainabrightredsand:theywere，infact，volcanicbombsthathadbeenformedbytheejectionofmoltenlavatoagreatheightfromactivevolcanoes。
thesehadbecomeglobularinfalling，and，havingcooledbeforetheyreachedtheearth，theyretainedtheirformsashardsphericalbodies，preciselyresemblingcannonshot。Theexteriorwasbrown，andappearedtoberichiniron。Thesmallerspecimenswerethemoreperfectspheres，astheycooledquickly，butmanyoftheheaviermasseshadevidentlyreachedtheearthwhenonlyhalfsolidified，andhadcollapseduponfalling。Thesandyplainwascoveredwithsuchvestigesofvolcanicaction，andtheinfernalbombslayasimperishablerelicsofahail-stormsuchasmayhavedestroyedSodomandGomorrah。
Passingthroughthiswretchedsolitudeweentereduponasceneofsurpassingdesolation。Farastheeyecouldreachwerewaveslikeastormysea，grey，cold-lookingwavesintheburningheat。butnodropofwater:itappearedasthoughasuddencursehadturnedaragingseatostone。Thesimoomblewoverthishorriblewilderness，anddriftedthehotsandintothecrevicesoftherocks，andthecamelsdroopedtheirheadsbeforethesuffocatingwind。butstillthecaravannoiselesslycreptalongovertherockyundulations，untilthestormyseawaspassed:oncemorewewereuponaboundlessplainofsandandpebbles。
HereeverynowandthenwediscoveredwitheredmelonsCucumiscolocynthis。theleaveshadlongsincedisappeared，andtheshrivelledstalkswerebrittleasglass。Theyprovedthateventhedeserthadaseasonoflife，howevershort。butthedesertfruitswerebitter。Sointenselybitterwasthedrywhiteinteriorofthesemelons，thatitexactlyresembledquinineintaste。whenrubbedbetweenthefingers，itbecameafinewhitepowder。TheArabsusethismedicinally。asmallpieceplacedinacupofmilk，andallowedtostandforafewhours，rendersthedraughtastrongaperient。Thesun——thatrelentlesspersecutorofthedeserttraveller——sankbehindthewesternhills，andthelongwishedfornightarrived。cool，deliciousnight!thethermometer78degreesFahr。adifferenceof36degreesbetweentheshadeofday。
Theguidecommandedthecaravan，——hewasthedesertpilot，andnoonedaredquestionhisdirections。heorderedahaltforTWO
HOURS'rest。Thiswastheusualstageandhalting-placebythesideofaperpendicularrock，thebaseofwhichwasstrewnthickwithcamel'sdung。thisexcellentfuelsoonproducedablazingfire，thecoffeebegantoboil，andfowlswereroastingforahastydinner。Ashortsnatchofsleepuponthesand，andthevoiceoftheguideagaindisturbedus。Thecamelshadnotbeenunloaded，buthadlaindowntorestwiththeirpacks，andhadthuseatentheirfeedofdhurraSorghumvulgarefromamat。Inafewminuteswestarted，oncemorethesilentandmonotonousdesertmarch。
InthecoolnightIpreferredwalkingtotheuneasymotionofthecamel。theairwasmostinvigoratingaftertheintenseheatofthedayandtheprostrationcausedbythesimoom。Thedeserthadacharmbynight，asthehorizonofitsnakednesswaslimited。
therocksassumedfantasticshapesinthebrightmoonlight，andtheprofoundstillnessproducedaneffectofthesupernaturalinthatwildandmysterioussolitude。theArabbeliefinthegeniiandafreet，andallthedemonenemiesofman，wasanaturalconsequenceofawanderinglifeinthisdesertwilderness，wherenatureishostiletoalllivingbeings。
Inforty-sixhoursandforty-fiveminutes'actualmarchingfromKoroskowereachedMoorahd，"thebitterwell。"
Thisisamournfulspot，wellknowntothetiredandthirstycamel，thehopeofreachingwhichhasurgedhimfaintingonhiswearywaytodrinkonedraughtbeforehedies:thisisthecamel'sgrave。SituatedhalfwaybetweenKoroskoandAbouHammed，thewellofMoorahdisinanextinctcrater，surroundeduponallsidesbutonebyprecipitouscliffsabout300feethigh。Thebottomisadeadflat，andformsavalleyofsandabout250yardswide。Inthisbosomofacrater，saltandbitterwaterisfoundatadepthofonlysixfeetfromthesurface。Tothisourtiredcamelsfranticallyrusheduponbeingunloaded。
Thevalleywasa"valleyofdrybones。"Innumerableskeletonsofcamelslayinalldirections。theshipsofthedesertthusstrandedontheirvoyage。Witheredheapsofparchedskinandbonelayhereandthere，inthedistinctformsinwhichthecamelshadgaspedtheirlast。thedrydesertairhadconvertedthehideintoacoffin。Therewerenoflieshere，thustherewerenowormstodevourthecarcases。buttheusualsextonswerethecrows，althoughsometimestoofewtoperformtheiroffice。Thesewereperchedupontheoverhangingcliffs。butnosoonerhadouroverworkedcamelstakentheirlongdraughtandlaindownexhaustedonthesand，thanbycommonconsenttheydescendedfromtheirhighplaces，andwalkedroundandroundeachtiredbeast。
Asmanywretchedanimalssimplycrawltothisspottodie，thecrows，fromlongexperienceandconstantpractice，canformaprettycorrectdiagnosisuponthecaseofasickcamel。theyhadevidentlypaidaprofessionalvisittomycaravan，andwereespeciallyattentiveinstudyingthecaseofoneparticularcamelthatwasinaveryweaklyconditionandhadstretcheditselffulllengthuponthesand。norwouldtheyleaveituntilitwasdrivenforward。
TheheatofMoorahdwasterrific。therewasnoshadeofanykind，andthenarrowvalleysurroundedbyglowingrocksformedanaturaloven。Theintensedrynessoftheoverheatedatmospherewassuch，thatmanyofourwater-skinsthatappearedfullwerenearlyempty。theprecioussupplyhadevaporatedthroughtheporousleather，andtheskinsweresimplydistendedbytheexpandedairwithin。FortunatelyIhadtakenabout108gallonsfromKorosko，andIpossessedagrandreserveinmytwobarrelswhichcouldnotwaste。thesewereinvaluableasaresourcewhenthesupplyintheskinsshouldbeexhausted。MyArabcamel-menweresupposedtobeprovidedwiththeirownprivatesupply。but，astheyhadcalculateduponstealingfrommystock，inwhichtheyweredisappointed，theywereonexceedinglyshortallowance，andweresufferingmuchfromthirst。Duringourforcedmarchofthreedaysandahalfithadbeenimpossibletoperformtheusualtoilette，therefore，aswaterwaslife，washinghadbeenoutofthequestion。Moorahdhadbeenlookedforwardtoasthespotofsixhours'rest，wherewecouldindulgeintheluxuryofabathonalimitedscaleaftertheheatandfatigueofthejourney。
Accordingly，abouttwoquartsofwaterweremeasuredintoalargeTurkishcopperbasin。thetent，althoughtheheatwasunendurable，wastheonlydressing-room，andthetwoquartsofwater，withadueproportionofsoap，havingwashedtwopeople，wasabouttobethrownaway，whentheArabguide，whohadbeenwaitinghisopportunity，snatchedthebasinfromtheservant，andintheagonyofthirstdranknearlythewholeofitscontents，handingtheresiduetoabrotherArab，withtheheartyejaculation，"ElhambdelIllah!"ThankGod!
Mywifewasseriouslyillfromthefatigueandintenseheat，buttherecanbenohaltinthedesert。deadoralive，withthecaravanyoumusttravel，asthepartydependsuponthesupplyofwater。Afewextractsverbatimfrommyjournalwilldescribethejourney
"May2O——Startedat12。30P。M。andhaltedat6。30。Offagainat7。30P。M。till2。45A。M。AboutfourmilesfromMoorahd，greygranitetakestheplaceofthevolcanicslagandschistthatformedtherockstothatpoint。Thedesertisnowavastplain，boundedbyarangeofruggedhillsonthesouth。OnthenorthsideofMoorahd，atadistanceofaboveeightmiles，slateismetwith。thiscontinuesforaboutthreemilesoftheroute，butitisofimpurequality，withtheexceptionofonevein，ofabeautifulbluecolour。Afewmiserablestuntedthornymimosasareheretobeseenscatteredirregularly，asthoughlostinthishorribledesert。"
Manyyearsago，whentheEgyptiantroopsfirstconqueredNubia，aregimentwasdestroyedbythirstincrossingthisdesert。Themen，beinguponalimitedallowanceofwater，sufferedfromextremethirst，anddeceivedbytheappearanceofamiragethatexactlyresembledabeautifullake，theyinsistedonbeingtakentoitsbanksbytheArabguide。Itwasinvainthattheguideassuredthemthatthelakewasunreal，andherefusedtolosetheprecioustimebywanderingfromhiscourse。Wordsledtoblows，andhewaskilledbythesoldiers，whoselivesdependeduponhisguidance。Thewholeregimentturnedfromthetrackandrushedtowardsthewelcomewaters。Thirstyandfaint，overtheburningsandstheyhurried。heavierandheaviertheirfootstepsbecame——hotterandhottertheirbreath，asdeepertheypushedintothedesert——fartherandfartherfromthelosttrackwherethepilotlayinhisblood。andstillthemockingspiritsofthedesert，theafreetsofthemirage，ledthemon，andthelakeglisteninginthesunshinetemptedthemtobatheinitscoolwaters，closetotheireyes，butneverattheirlips。Atlengththedelusionvanished——thefatallakehadturnedtoburningsand!
Ragingthirstandhorribledespair!thepathlessdesertandthemurderedguide!lost!lost!alllost!Notamaneverleftthedesert，buttheyweresubsequentlydiscovered，parchedandwitheredcorpses，bytheArabssentuponthesearch。
"May21——Startedat5。45A。M。till8。45。again，at1。45P。M。
till7P。M。again，at9。30P。M。till4A。M。Sawtwogazelles，thefirstlivingcreatures，exceptthecrowsatMoorahd，thatwehaveseensinceweleftKorosko。theremustbeasupplyofwaterinthemountainsknownonlytotheseanimals。Thermometer，111
degreesFahr。intheshade。atnight，78degrees。ThewaterintheleatherbottlethatIrepairedisdeliciouslycool。N。B——Insewingleatherbottlesorskinsforholdingwater，nothreadshouldbeused，butaleathernthong，whichshouldbedry。itwillthenswellwhenwetted，andtheseamwillbewatertight。
"May22——Startedat5。30A。M。till9。30。again，at2。15P。M。
till7。15P。M。Restedtodine，andstartedagainat8。30P。M。
till4。25A。M……reachingAbouHammed，thankheaven!
"Yesterdayeveningwepassedthroughasecondchainofruggedhillsofgreygranite，about600feethigh，anddescendedthroughapasstoanextensiveplain，inwhichroseabruptly，likehugepyramids，fourgranitehills，atgreatdistancesapart。Soexactlydotheyresembleartificialpyramidsatadistance，thatitisdifficulttobelievetheyarenaturalobjects。IfeelpersuadedthattheancientEgyptianstooktheirdesignsformonumentsandbuildingsfromthehillsthemselves，andraisedintheplainsofLowerEgyptartificialpyramidsinimitationofthegranitehillsofthisform。Theirtempleswereinformlikemanyofthegraniteranges，andwerethoroughlyencasedwithstone。
TheextraordinarymassivenessoftheseworkssuggeststhatNatureassistedthedesign。thestonecolumnsareimitationsofthedatepalms，andthebuildingsarecopiesoftherockyhills——thetwocommonfeaturesofEgyptianscenery。
"ThroughouttheroutefromKorosko，theskeletonsofcamelsnumberabouteightpermile，withtheexceptionofthelastmarchoneithersideofthewatering-placeMoorahd，onwhichtherearedoublethatnumber，astheanimalshavebecomeexhaustedastheyapproachthewell。Inthesteeppassthroughthehills，wheretheheatisintense，andthesanddeep，themortalityisdreadful。insomeplacesIcountedsixandeightinaheap。andthisdifficultportionoftherouteisamassofbones，aseveryweakanimalgivesinatthetryingplace。
"SodreadfuladesertisthisbetweenKoroskoandAbouHammed，thatSaidPashaorderedtheroutetobeclosed。butitwasre-openedupontheapplicationofforeignconsuls，asthemostdirectroadtotheSoudan。OurBishareenArabsarefirst-ratewalkers，astheyhaveperformedtheentirejourneyonfoot。Theirwaterandprovisionswereallexhaustedyesterday，butfortunatelyIhadguardedthekeyofmytwowater-casks。thusI
hadasupplywheneverywater-skinwasempty，andonthelastdayIdividedmysacredstockamongstthemen，andthestillmorethirstycamels。Inthehotmonths，acamelcannotmarchlongerthanthreedayswithoutdrinking，unlessatthecostofgreatsuffering。
"HavingarrivedhereAbouHammedat4。25thismorning，23dMay，Ihadtheluxuryofabath。TheverysightoftheNilewasdelightful，aftertheparcheddesolationofthelastsevendays。
Thesmallvillageisutterlydestituteofeverything，andthesteriledesertextendstotheverymarginoftheNile。Thejourneyhavingoccupiedninety-twohoursofactualmarchingacrossthedesert，gives230milesasthedistancefromKorosko，attheloaded-camelrateoftwoandahalfmilesperhour。Theaveragedurationofdailymarchhasbeenupwardsofthirteenhours，includingaday'shaltatMoorahd。Mycamelshavearrivedintolerablecondition，astheirloadsdidnotexceed400lbs。
each。theusualloadis500lbs。
"May24——Restedbothmenandbeasts。Acaravanofaboutthirtycamelsarrived，havinglostthreeduringtheroute。
"May25——Startedat5A。M。TherouteisalongthemarginoftheNile，towhichthedesertextends。Afringeofstuntedbushes，andgrovesofthecoarseandinelegantdomepalm，markthebanksoftheriverbyathicketofabouthalfamileinwidth。Isawmanygazelles，andsucceededinstalkingafinebuck，andkillinghimwitharifle。
"May26——Marchedtenhours。Sawgazelles，butsowildthatitwasimpossibletoshoot。Thermometer110degreesFahr。
"May27——Marchedfourhoursandforty-fiveminutes，whenwewereobligedtohalt，asF。isveryill。IntheeveningIshottwogazelles，whichkeptthepartyinmeat。
"May28——Marchedfifteenhours，tomakeupforthedelayofyesterday。Shotabuckontheroute。
"May29——Themarchofyesterdaycutoffanangleoftheriver，andwemadeastraightcoursethroughthedesert，avoidingabendofthestream。At7。30thismorningwemettheNileagain。thesamecharacterofcountryasbefore，theriverfullofrocks，andformingasuccessionofrapidstheentiredistancefromAbouHammed。Navigationatthisseasonisimpossible，andismostdangerousevenatflood-time。Thesimoomisfearful，andtheheatissointensethatitwasimpossibletodrawthegun-casesoutoftheirleathercovers，whichitwasnecessarytocutopen。Allwoodworkiswarped。ivoryknife-handlesaresplit。paperbreakswhencrunchedinthehand，andtheverymarrowseemstobedriedoutofthebonesbythishorriblesimoom。Oneofourcamelsfelldowntodie。Shottwobuckgazelles。Isawmany，buttheyareverywild。
"May3O——Theextremedrynessoftheairinducesanextraordinaryamountofelectricityinthehair，andinallwoollenmaterials。
AScotchplaidlaiduponablanketforafewhoursadherestoit，anduponbeingroughlywithdrawnatnightasheetofflameisproduced，accompaniedbytolerablyloudreports。
"May31——Afteranearlymarchofthreehoursandtwentyminutes，wearrivedatthetownofBerber，ontheNile，at9。35A。M。Wehavebeenfifty-sevenhoursandfiveminutesactuallymarchingfromAbouHammed，which，attwoandahalfmilesperhour，equals143miles。Wehavethusmarched373milesfromKoroskotoBerberinfifteendays。theentirerouteisthemonotonousNubiandesert。Ourcamelshaveaveragedtwenty-fivemilesperday，withloadsof400lbs。atacostofninetypiastresabout19s。each，forthewholedistance。Thisrate，withtheadditionoftheguide'sexpenses，equalsabout5s。6d。per100lbs。forcarriagethroughout373milesofburningdesert。Althoughthisfrightfulcountryappearstobecutofffromallcommunicationwiththeworld，theextremelylowrateoftransportchargesaffordsgreatfacilityforcommerce。"*
*Sincethatdate，31stMay，1861，theepidemicorcattleplaguecarriedoffanimmensenumberofcamels，andthechargesoftransportrosein1864and1865toaratethatcompletelyparalysedthetradeofUpperEgypt。
Berberisalargetown，andinappearanceissimilartotheNiletownsofLowerEgypt，consistingoftheusualdusty，unpavedstreets，andflat-roofedhousesofsun-bakedbricks。ItistheseatofaGovernor，orMudir，andisgenerallythequartersforabout1，500troops。WewereverykindlyreceivedbyHalleemEffendi，theex-Governor，whoatoncegaveuspermissiontopitchthetentsinhisgarden，closetotheNile，onthesouthernoutskirtofthetown。Afterfifteendaysofdesertmarching，thesightofawell-cultivatedgardenwasanEdeninoureyes。Abouteightacresofland，onthemarginoftheriver，werethicklyplantedwithloftydategroves，andshadycitronandlemontrees，beneathwhichwerevelledinluxuryonourPersianrugs，andenjoyedcompleterestafterthefatigueofourlongjourney。
Countlessbirdswerechirpingandsinginginthetreesaboveus。
innumerablering-doveswerecooingintheshadypalms。andthesuddenchangefromthedeadsterilityofthedeserttothesceneofverdureandoflife，producedanextraordinaryeffectuponthespirits。Whatcausedthiscurioustransition?Whyshouldthischarmingoasis，teemingwithvegetationandwithlife，befoundintheyellow，sandydesert?……Waterhadworkedthischange。
thespiritoftheNile，morepotentthananygeniioftheArabianfables，hadtransformedthedesertintoafruitfulgarden。
HalleemEffendi，theformerGovernor，had，manyyearsago，plantedthisgarden，irrigatedbynumerouswater-wheels。andwenowenjoyedthefruits，andthankedHeavenforitsgreatestblessingsinthatburningland，shadeandcoolwater。
Thetentsweresoonarranged，thecamelswerepaidforanddischarged，andinthecooloftheeveningwewerevisitedbytheGovernorandsuite。
Thefirmanhavingbeenofficiallypresentedbythedragomanuponourarrivalinthemorning，theGovernorhadcalledwithmuchcivilitytoinquireintoourprojectsandtoofferassistance。Wewereshortlyseatedoncarpetsoutsidethetent，andafterpipesandcoffee，andtheusualpreliminarycompliments，mydragomanexplained，thatthemainobjectofourjourneywastosearchforthesourcesoftheNile，or，ashedescribedit，"theheadoftheriver。"
BoththeGovernorandHalleemEffendi，withmanyofficerswhohadaccompaniedthem，wereTurks。but，inspiteofthegravityandsolidityforwhichtheTurkisrenowned，theirfacesrelaxedintoavarietyofexpressionsatthistothemabsurdannouncement。
"TheheadoftheNile!"theyexclaimed，"impossible!""Dotheyknowwhereitis?"inquiredtheGovernor，ofthedragoman。anduponanexplanationbeinggiven，that，aswedidnotknowwhereitwas，wehadproposedtodiscoverit，theTurksmerelyshooktheirheads，sippedtheircoffee，andtookextrawhiffsattheirlongpipes，untilatlengththewhite-hairedoldHalleemEffendispoke。Hegavegoodandparentaladvice，asfollows:——
"Don'tgouponsoabsurdanerrand。nobodyknowsanythingabouttheNile，neitherwillanyonediscoveritssource。WedonotevenknowthesourceoftheAtbara。howshouldweknowthesourceofthegreatNile。AgreatportionoftheAtbaraflowsthroughthePashaofEgypt'sdominions。thefirmaninyourpossessionwithhissignature，willinsureyourespect，solongasyouremainwithinhisterritory。butifyoucrosshisfrontier，youwillbeinthehandsofsavages。TheWhiteNileisthecountryofthenegroes。wild，ferociousraceswhohaveneitherknowledgeofGodnorrespectforthePasha，andyoumusttravelwithapowerfularmedforce。theclimateisdeadly。howcouldyoupenetratesucharegiontosearchforwhatisuselessevenshouldyouattainit?Buthowwoulditbepossibleforalady，younganddelicate，toendurewhatwouldkillthestrongestman?TravelalongtheAtbarariverintotheTakacountry，thereismuchtobeseenthatisunexplored。butgiveupthemadschemeoftheNilesource。"
TherewassomesenseinoldHalleemEffendi'sadvice。itwasthecoolandcautiouswisdomofoldage，butasIwasnotsoelderly，Itookit"cumgranosalis。"Hewasacharmingoldgentleman，theperfectbeauidealofthetrueoldstyleofTurk，butfewspecimensofwhichremain。allthathehadsaidwasspokeninsincerity，andIresolvedtocollectasmuchinformationaspossiblefromthegrey-headedauthoritiesbeforeIshouldcommencetheexpedition。Iwasdeeplyimpressedwithonefact，thatuntilIcoulddispensewithaninterpreteritwouldbeimpossibletosucceed，thereforeIdeterminedtolearnArabicasspeedilyaspossible。
Aweek'srestinthegardenofHalleemEffendipreparedusforthejourney。IresolvedtoexploretheAtbarariverandtheAbyssinianaffluents，priortocommencingtheWhiteNilevoyage。
TheGovernorpromisedmetwoTurkishsoldiersasattendants，andIarrangedtosendmyheavybaggagebyboattoKhartoum，andsecuretheadvantageoftravellinglight。acomfortthatnoonecanappreciatewhohasnotfeltthedailydelayinloadingalongstringofcamels。BothmywifeandIhadsufferedfromashortattackoffeverbroughtonbytheprostratingeffectofthesimoom，whichatthisseasonJunewasatitsheight。TheNilewasslowlyrising，althoughitwasstilllow。occasionallyitfellabouteighteeninchesinonenight，butagainrose。thisprovedthat，althoughtherainshadcommenced，theywerenotconstant，asthesteadyandrapidincreaseoftheriverhadnottakenplace。TheauthoritiesassuredmethattheBlueNilewasnowrisingatKhartoum，whichaccountedfortheincreaseoftheriveratBerber。
ThegardenofHalleemEffendiwasattendedbyanumberoffinepowerfulslavesfromtheWhiteNile，whosestoutframesandglossyskinswereundeniablewitnessesoftheirmaster'scare。A
charminglyprettyslavegirlpaidusdailyvisits，withpresentsoffruitfromherkindmasterandnumerousmistresses，who，withtheusualTurkishcomplimentsasapreliminarymessage，requestedpermissiontovisittheEnglishlady。
Inthecoolhourofeveningabevyofladiesapproachedthroughthedarkgrovesofcitrontrees，sogailydressedinsilksofthebrightestdyesofyellow，blue，andscarlet，thatnobouquetofflowerscouldhavebeenmoregaudy。Theywereattendedbynumerousslaves，andtheheadservantpolitelyrequestedmetowithdrawduringtheinterview。Thusturnedoutofmytent，Iwascompelledtopatienceandsolitudebeneathaneighbouringdatepalm。
Theresultoftheinterviewwithmywifewasmostsatisfactory。
theusualwomanishquestionshadbeenrepliedto，andhostsofcomplimentsexchanged。WewerethenrichinallkindsofEuropeantriflesthatexcitedtheircuriosity，andafewlittlepresentsestablishedsogreatanamountofconfidencethattheygavetheindividualhistoryofeachmemberofthefamilyfromchildhood，thatwouldhavefilledacolumnoftheTimeswithbirths，deaths，andmarriages。
Someoftheseladieswereveryyoungandpretty，andofcourseexercisedacertaininfluenceovertheirhusbands。thus，onthefollowingmorning，wewereinundatedwithvisitors，asthemalemembersofthefamilycametothankusforthemannerinwhichtheirladieshadbeenreceived。andfruit，flowers，andthegeneralproduceofthegardenwerepresentedtousinprofusion。
Howeverpleasant，thereweredrawbackstoourgardenofEden。
therewasdustinourParadise。notthedustthatweseeinEuropeuponunwateredroads，thatsimplyfillstheeyes，butsuddencloudsraisedbywhirlwindsinthedesertwhichfairlychokedtheearsandnostrilswhenthusattacked。Juneistheseasonwhenthesephenomenaaremostprevalent。Atthattimetherainshavecommencedinthesouth，andareextendingtowardsthenorth。thecoldandheavyairofthesouthernrain-cloudssweepsdownupontheoverheatedatmosphereofthedesert，andproducessuddenviolentsquallsandwhirlwindswhenleastexpected，asatthattimetheskyiscloudless。
Theeffectofthesedesertwhirlwindsismostcurious，astheirforceissufficienttoraisedensecolumnsofsandanddustseveralthousandfeethigh。thesearenottheevanescentcreationsofachangingwind，buttheyfrequentlyexistformanyhours，andtravelforward，ormoreusuallyincircles，resemblinginthedistancesolidpillarsofsand。TheArabsuperstitioninveststheseappearanceswiththesupernatural，andthemysterioussand-columnofthedesertwanderinginitsburningsolitude，isanevilspirit，a"Gin""genii"plural，oftheArabianNights。Ihavefrequentlyseenmanysuchcolumnsatthesametimeintheboundlessdesert，alltravellingorwaltzinginvariousdirectionsatthewilfulchoiceofeachwhirlwind:thisvagrancyofcharacterisanundoubtedprooftotheArabmindoftheirindependentanddiabolicalorigin。
TheAbyssiniantraveller，Bruce，appearstohaveentertainedapeculiardreadofthedangersofsuchsandcolumns，butonthispointhisfearwasexaggerated。Casesmayhaveoccurredwherecaravanshavebeensuffocatedbywhirlwindsofsand，butthesearerareexceptions，andtheusualeffectsoftheduststormaretheunroofingofthatchedhuts，thedestructionofafewdatepalms，andthedisagreeableamountofsandthatnotonlyhalfchokesbothmanandbeast，butburiesallobjectsthatmaybelyingonthegroundsomeinchesdeepindust。
ThewindatthisseasonJunewaschangeable，andstrongblastsfromthesouthweretheharbingersoftheapproachingrainyseason。Wehadnotimetolose，andweaccordinglyarrangedtostart。Idischargedmydirtycook，andengagedamanwhowasbroughtbyacoffee-housekeeper，bywhomhewashighlyrecommended。but，asaprecautionagainstdeception，IledhimbeforetheMudir，orGovernor，toberegisteredbeforeourdeparture。Tomyastonishment，andtohisinfinitedisgust，hewasimmediatelyrecognisedasanoldoffender，whohadformerlybeenimprisonedfortheft!TheGovernor，toprovehisfriendship，andhisinterestinmywelfare，immediatelysentthepolicetocapturethecoffee-housekeeperwhohadrecommendedthecook。NosoonerwastheunluckysuretybroughttotheDivanthanhewascondemnedtoreceive200lashesforhavinggivenafalsecharacter。Thesentencewasliterallycarriedout，inspiteofmyremonstrance，andthepolicewereorderedtomakethecasepublictopreventarecurrence。TheGovernorassuredme，thatasIheldafirmanfromtheViceroyhecouldnotdootherwise，andthatI
mustbelievehimtobemytruestfriend。"Savemefrommyfriends，"wasanadagequicklyproved。Icouldnotprocureacook，neitheranyotherattendants，aseveryonewasafraidtoguaranteeacharacter，lesthemightcomeinforhisshareofthe200lashes!
TheGovernorcametomyrescue，andsentimmediatelythepromisedTurkishsoldiers，whoweretoactinthedoublecapacityofescortandservants。Theyweremenoftotallyoppositecharacters。HadjiAchmetwasahardy，powerful，dare-devil-lookingTurk，whileHadjiVelliwastheperfectionofpoliteness，andasgentleasalamb。Mynewalliesprocuredmethreedonkeysinadditiontothenecessarybaggagecamels，andwestartedfromthepleasantgardenofHalleemEffendiontheeveningofthe10thofJuneforthejunctionoftheAtbarariverwiththeNile。
CHAPTERII。
"'MongstthemwereseveralEnglishmenofpith，SixteennamedThompson，andnineteennamedSmith。"
DONJUAN。
MAHOMET，Achmet，andAliareequivalenttoSmith，Brown，andThompson。Accordingly，ofmyfewattendants，mydragomanwasMahomet，andmyprincipalguidewasAchmet。andsubsequentlyI
hadanumberofAlis。MahometwasaregularCairodragoman，anativeofDongola，almostblack，butexceedinglytenaciousregardinghisshadeofcolour，whichhedeclaredtobelightbrown。HespokeverybadEnglish，wasexcessivelyconceited，andirascibletoadegree。Nopashawassobumptiousoroverbearingtohisinferiors，buttomeandtohismistresswhileinCairohehadthegentlenessofthedove，andIhadengagedhimat5l。permonthtoaccompanymetotheWhiteNile。Menchangewithcircumstances。climateaffectsthehealthandtemper。thesleekandwell-feddogisamiable，buthewouldbeviciouswhenthinandhungry。themaninluxuryandthemaninneedarenotequallyangelic。NowMahometwasoneofthosedragomenwhoareaccustomedtothecivilizedexpeditionsoftheBritishtouristtothefirstorsecondcataract，inaNileboatrepletewithconveniencesandluxuries，uponwhichthedragomanismonarchsupreme，awhaleamongtheminnows，whorulesthevessel，purchasesdailyahostofunnecessarysupplies，uponwhichheclearshisprofit，untilhereturnstoCairowithhispocketsfilledsufficientlytosupporthimuntilthefollowingNileseason。Theshortthreemonths'harvest，fromNovemberuntilFebruary，fillshisgranaryfortheyear。Undersuchcircumstancesthetempershouldbeangelic。Buttimeshadchanged:theluxuriousMahomethadleftthecomfortableNileboatatKorosko，andhehadcrossedtheburningdesertuponajoltingcamel。hehadleftthewell-knownroutewherethedragomanwassupreme，andhefoundhimselfamongpeoplewhotreatedhiminthelightofacommonservant。"A
changecameo'erthespiritofhisdream。"Mahometwasnolongeragreatman，andhistemperchangedwithcircumstances。infact，Mahometbecameunbearable，andstillhewasabsolutelynecessary，ashewasthetongueoftheexpeditionuntilweshouldaccomplishArabic。Tohimtheveryideaofexplorationwasanabsurdity。hehadneverbelievedinitfromthefirst，andhenowbecameimpressedwiththefactthathewaspositivelycommittedtoanundertakingthatwouldendmostlikelyinhisdeath，ifnotinterribledifficulties。hedetermined，underthecircumstances，tomakehimselfasdisagreeableaspossibletoallparties。WiththisamiableresolutionMahometadoptedaphysicalinfirmityintheshapeofdeafness。inreality，noonewasmoreacuteinhearing，butastherearenobellswheretherearenohouses，heofcoursecouldnotanswersuchasummons，andhewascompelledtoattendtothecallofhisownname——"Mahomet!Mahomet!"Noreply，althoughtheindividualwassittingwithinafewfeet，apparentlyabsorbedinthecontemplationofhisownboots。
"Mahomet!"withanadditionalemphasisuponthesecondsyllable。
Againnoresponse。"Mahomet，yourascal，whydon'tyouanswer?"
Thisenergeticaddresswouldeffectachangeinhisposition。themildandlamb-likedragomanofCairowouldsuddenlystartfromtheground，tearhisownhairfromhisheadinhandfuls，andshout，"Mahomet!Mahomet!Mahomet!alwaysMahomet!D——nMahomet!
Iwishheweredead，orbackinCairo，thisbruteMahomet!"Theirascibledragomanwouldthenbeathisownheadunmercifullywithhisfists，inaparoxysmofrage。
TocomforthimIcouldonlyexclaim，"Welldone，Mahomet!thrashhim。pommelhimwell。punchhishead。youknowhimbest。hedeservesit。don'tsparehim!"Thisadvice，actinguponthenaturalperversityofhisdisposition，generallysoothedhim，andheceasedpunchinghishead。Thismanwasentirelyoutofhisplace，ifnotoutofhismind，atcertainmoments，andhavingupononeoccasionsmashedabasinbythrowingitinthefaceofthecook，anduponanotheroccasionnarrowlyescapedhomicide，bythrowinganaxeataman'shead，whichmissedbyaninch，hebecameanotoriouscharacterinthelittleexpedition。
WeleftBerberintheeveningatsunset。weweremountedupondonkeys，whileourTurkishattendantsrodeuponexcellentdromedariesthatbelongedtotheirregimentofirregularcavalry。
Asusual，whenreadytostart，Mahometwasthelast。hehadpiledahugemassofbagsandvariousluggageuponhisdonkey，thatalmostobscuredtheanimal，andhesatmounteduponthispinnacledressedingorgeousclothes，withabraceofhandsomepistolsinhisbelt，andhisgunslungacrosshisshoulders。Uponmyremonstratingwithhimuponthecrueltyofthusoverloadingthedonkey，heflewintoafitofrage，anddismountingimmediately，hedrewhispistolsfromhisbeltanddashedthemupontheground。hisgunsharedthesamefate，andheavinghisweaponsuponthesand，hesullenlywalkedbehindhisdonkey，whichhedroveforwardwiththecaravan。
Wepushedforwardattheusualrapidambleofthedonkeys。and，accompaniedbyHadjiAchmetuponhisdromedary，withthecoffee-pot，&c。andalargePersianrugslungbehindthesaddle，wequicklydistancedtheslowercaravanunderthechargeofHadjiVelliandthesullenMahomet。
Therewasnodifficultyintheroute，asthesteriledesertofsandandpebbleswasboundedbyafringeofbushamidmimosathatmarkedthecourseoftheNile，towhichourwaylayparallel。
Therewasnoobjecttoattractparticularattention，andnosoundbutthatofthebleatinggoatsdrivenhomewardbytheArabboys，andthesharpcryofthedesertsandgrouseastheyarrivedinflockstodrinkinthewelcomeriver。Theflightofthesebirdsisextremelyrapid，andismorelikethatofthepigeonthanthegrouse。theyinhabitthedesert，buttheytravelgreatdistancesbothnightandmorningtowater，astheyinvariablydrinktwiceaday。Astheyapproachtherivertheyutterthecry"Chuckow，chuckow，"inaloudclearnote，andimmediatelyafterdrinkingtheyreturnupontheirlongflighttothedesert。Thereareseveralvarietiesofthesandgrouse。Ihavemetwiththree，buttheyaredry，tough，andworthlessasgame。
WesleptinthedesertaboutfivemilesfromBerber，andonthefollowingday，afterascorchingmarchofabouttwentymiles，wearrivedatthejunctionoftheAtbarariverwiththeNile。
Throughouttheroutethebarrensandstretchedtothehorizonontheleft，whileontheright，withinamileoftheNile，thesoilwassufficientlyrichtosupportacertainamountofvegetation——chieflydwarfmimosasandtheAsclepiasgigantea。ThelatterIhadfrequentlyseeninCeylon，whereitisusedmedicinallybythenativedoctors。buthereitwasignored，exceptfortheproduceofabeautifulsilkydownwhichisusedforstuffingcushionsandpillows。Thisvegetablesilkiscontainedinasoftpodorbladderaboutthesizeofanorange。
Boththeleavesandthestemofthisplantemitahighlypoisonousmilk，thatexudesfromthebarkwhencutorbruised。
theleastdropofthiswillcausetotalblindness，ifincontactwiththeeye。Ihaveseenseveralinstancesofacuteophthalmiathathaveterminatedinlossofsightfromtheaccidentalrubbingoftheeyewiththehandwhenengagedincuttingfirewoodfromtheasclepias。Thewoodisextremelylight，andisfrequentlytiedintofagotsandusedbytheArabsasasupportwhileswimming，inlieuofcork。Althoughthepoisonousqualitiesoftheplantcauseittobeshunnedbyallotheranimals，itisneverthelessgreedilydevouredbygoats，whoeatitunharmed。
ItwasabouttwohoursaftersunsetwhenwearrivedatthesteepbankoftheAtbarariver。Pushingthroughthefringeofyoungdomepalmsthatformedathickcovertuponthemargin，wecautiouslydescendedthebankforabouttwenty-fivefeet，asthebrightglareoftheriver'sbeddeceivedmebytheresemblancetowater。Wefoundabroadsurfaceofwhitesand，whichatthatseasonformedthedrybedoftheriver。Crossingthisaridbottomofabout400yardsinwidth，weunsaddledontheoppositeside，byabedofwatermelonsplantednearasmallpoolofwater。A
fewofthesewechoppedinpiecesforourtireddonkeys，andwesharedinthecoolandwelcomeluxuryourselvesthatwasmostrefreshingafterthefatigueoftheday'sjourney。Longbeforeourcamelsarrived，wehaddrunkourcoffeeandweresoundasleepuponthesandybedoftheAtbara。
Atdaybreakonthefollowingmorning，whilethecamelswerebeingloaded，Istrolledtoasmallpoolinthesand，temptedbyacoupleofwildgeese。theseweresufficientlyunsophisticatedastoallowmetoapproachwithinshot，andIbaggedthemboth，andsecuredourbreakfast。theywerethecommonEgyptiangeese，whicharenotverydelicateeating。Thedonkeysbeingsaddled，weatoncestartedwithourattendant，HadjiAchmet，ataboutfivemilesperhour，inadvanceofourslowercaravan。Theroutewasupontheriver'smargin，dueeast，throughasandycopseofthornymimosaswhichfringedtheriver'scourseforaboutaquarterofamileoneitherside。beyondthisallwasdesert。
TheAtbarahadacuriousappearance。innopartwasitlessthan400yardsinwidth，whileinmanyplacesthisbreadthwasmuchexceeded。Thebankswerefromtwenty-fivetothirtyfeetdeep:
thesehadevidentlybeenover-flowedduringfloods，bntatthepresenttimetheriverwasdead。notonlypartiallydry，butsoglaringwasthesandybed，thatthereflectionofthesunwasalmostunbearable。
GreatnumbersofthedomepalmHyphoeneThebaica，Mart。grewuponthebanks。thesetreesareofgreatservicetotheArabtribes，whoatthisseasonofdroughtforsakethedesertsandflockuponthemarginoftheAtbara。Theleavesofthedomesupplythemwithexcellentmaterialformatsandropes，whilethefruitisusedbothformanandbeast。Thedomepalmresemblesthepalmyraintheformandtextureofitsfan-shapedleaves，butthereisadistinguishingpeculiarityinthegrowth:insteadofthestraightsinglestemofthepalmyra，thedomepalmspreadsintobranches，eachofwhichinvariablyrepresentstheletterY。
Thefruitgrowsindenseclusters，numberingseveralhundred，ofthesizeofasmallorange，butofanirregularovalshape。theseareofarichbrowncolour，andbearanaturalpolishasthoughvarnished。Sohardisthefruitanduninvitingtotheteeth，thatadealboardwouldbeequallypracticableformastication。theArabspoundthembetweenstones，bywhichroughprocesstheydetachtheedibleportionintheformofaresinouspowder。Therindofthenutwhichproducesthispowderisaboutaquarterofaninchthick。thiscoatingcoversastrongshellwhichcontainsanutofvegetableivory，alittlelargerthanafull-sizedwalnut。Whentheresinouspowderisdetached，itiseithereatenraw，oritisboiledintoadeliciousporridge，withmilk。thishasastrongflavourofgingerbread。
Thevegetableivorynutsarethensoakedinwaterforabouttwenty-fourhours，afterwhichtheyareheapedinlargepilesuponafireuntilnearlydry，andthoroughlysteamed。thisprocessrendersthemsufficientlytractabletobereducedbypoundinginaheavymortar。Thus，brokenintosmallpiecestheysomewhatresemblehalf-roastedchestnuts，andinthisstatetheyformexcellentfoodforcattle。TheusefuldomepalmisthechiefsupportofthedesertArabswhenintimesofdroughtandscarcitythesupplyofcornhasfailed。AtthisseasonJunetherewasnotabladeofeventhewitheredgrassofthedesertoases。OurdonkeyslivedexclusivelyuponthedhurraSorghumEgyptiaca
thatwecarriedwithus，andthecamelsrequiredadailysupplyofcorninadditiontothedrytwigsandbushesthatformedtheirdustyfood。Themarginoftheriverwasmiserableanduninviting。
thetreesandbusheswereentirelyleaflessfromtheintenseheat，asarethetreesinEnglandduringwinter。Theonlyshadewasaffordedbytheevergreendomepalms。nevertheless，theArabsoccupiedthebanksatintervalsofthreeorfourmiles，whereverapoolofwaterinsomedeepbendofthedriedriver'sbedofferedanattraction。insuchplaceswereArabvillagesorcamps，oftheusualmattentsformedofthedomepalmleaves。
Manypoolswereofconsiderablesizeandofgreatdepth。Inflood-timeatremendoustorrentsweepsdownthecourseoftheAtbara，andthesuddenbendsoftheriverarehollowedoutbytheforceofthestreamtoadepthoftwentyorthirtyfeetbelowthelevelofthebed。Accordinglytheseholesbecomereservoirsofwaterwhentheriverisotherwiseexhausted。Insuchasylumsalltheusualinhabitantsofthislargeriverarecrowdedtogetherinacomparativelynarrowspace。Althoughthesepoolsvaryinsize，fromonlyafewhundredyardstoamileinlength，theyarepositivelyfulloflife。hugefish，crocodilesofimmensesize，turtles，andoccasionallyhippopotami，consorttogetherincloseandunwished-forproximity。
Theanimalsofthedesert——gazelles，hyaenas，andwildasses——arecompelledtoresorttothesecrowdeddrinking-places，occupiedbytheflocksoftheArabsequallywiththetimidbeastsofthechase。Thebirdsthatduringthecoolermonthswouldwanderfreethroughoutthecountry，arenowcollectedinvastnumbersalongthemarginoftheexhaustedriver。innumerabledoves，varyinginspecies，throngthetreesandseektheshadeofthedomepalms。
thousandsofdesertgrousearrivemorningandeveningtodrinkandtodepart。whilebirdsinmultitudes，oflovelyplumage，escapefromtheburningdesert，andcolonizethepoorbutwelcomebushesthatfringetheAtbarariver。
Theheatwasintense。AswetravelledalongthemarginoftheAtbara，andfeltwiththesufferinganimalstheexhaustionoftheclinmate，IacknowledgedthegrandeuroftheNilethatcouldovercometheabsorptionofsuchthirstysands，andtheevaporationcausedbytheburningatmosphereofNubia。Fornearly1，200milesfromthejunctionoftheAtbarawiththeparentstreamtotheMediterranean，notonestreamletjoinedthemysteriousriver，neitheronedropofrainruffleditswaters，unlessararethunder-shower，asacuriousphenomenon，startledtheArabsastheytravelledalongthedesert。NeverthelesstheNileovercameitsenemies，whiletheAtbarashranktoaskeleton，bareandexhausted，reducedtoafewpoolsthatlaylikeblotchesalongthebroadsurfaceofglowingsand。
Notwithstandingtheoverpoweringsun，therewerecertainadvantagestothetravelleratthisseason。itwasunnecessarytocarryalargesupplyofwater，asitcouldbeobtainedatintervalsofafewmiles。Therewasanindescribabledelightinthecoolnight，when，intheperfectcertaintyoffineweather，wecouldrestintheopenairwiththeclearbrightstarlitskyaboveus。Therewerenomosquitoes，neitherwerethereanyoftheinsectplaguesofthetropics。theairwastoodryforthegnattribe，andthemomentofsunsetwasthesignalforperfectenjoyment，freefromtheusualdrawbacksofAfricantravel。Astheriverpoolsweretheonlydrinking-placesforbirdsandgame，thegunsuppliednotonlymyownparty，butIhadmuchtogiveawaytotheArabsinexchangeforgoat'smilk，themealofthedomenuts，&c。Gazelleswereexceedinglynumerous，butshy，andsodifficulttoapproachthattheyrequiredmostcarefulstalking。Atthisseasonofintenseheattheydranktwiceaday——ataboutanhouraftersunrise，andhalfanhourbeforesunset。
Thegreatcomfortoftravellingalongthebankoftheriverinadesertcountryistheperfectfreedom，asacontinualsupplyofwaterenablestheexplorertorestathisleisureinanyattractivespotwheregameisplentiful，orwherethenaturalfeaturesofthecountryinviteinvestigation。Weaccordinglyhalted，aftersomedays'journey，ataspotnamedCollodabad，whereanangleoftheriverhadleftadeeppoolofaboutamileinlength:thiswasthelargestsheetofwaterthatwehadseenthroughoutthecourseoftheAtbara。AnumberofArabshadcongregatedatthisspotwiththeirflocksandherds。thetotalabsenceofverdurehadreducedtheanimalstoextremeleanness，asthegoatsgatheredtheirscantysustenancefromtheseed-podsofthemimosas，whichwereshakendowntotheexpectantflocksbytheArabboys，withlonghookedpoles。Theseseedswereextremelyoily，andresembledlinseed，buttherankflavourwasdisagreeableandacrid。
Thisspotwassevendays'marchfromtheNilejunction，orabout160miles。Thejourneyhadbeenextremelymonotonous，astherehadbeennochangeinthescenery。itwastheinterminabledesert，withthesolitarystreakofvegetationinthebeltofmimosasanddomepalms，aboutamileandahalfinwidth，thatmarkedthecourseoftheriver。Ihaddailyshotgazelles，geese，pigeons，desertgrouse，&c。butnolargergame。Iwasinformedthatatthisspot，Collodabad，Ishouldbeintroducedforthefirsttimetothehippopotamus。
Owingtothetotalabsenceofnourishingfood，thecattleproducedascantysupplyofmilk。thustheArabs，whodependedchieflyupontheirflocksfortheirsubsistence，wereingreatdistress，andmenandbeastsmutuallysufferedextremehardship。
TheArabsthatoccupythedesertnorthoftheAtbaraaretheBishareens。itwasamongalargeconcourseofthesepeoplethatwepitchedourtentsonthebanksoftheriveratCollodabad。
Thisbeingtheprincipalwatering-placealongthedesertedbedoftheAtbara，theneighbourhoodliterallyswarmedwithdoves，sandgrouse，andotherbirds，inadditiontomanygeeseandpelicans。
EarlyinthemorningIprocuredanArabguidetosearchforthereportedhippopotami。Mytentswereamongagroveofdomepalmsonthemarginoftheriver。thusIhadaclearviewofthebedforadistanceofabouthalfamileoneitherside。ThisportionoftheAtbarawasabout500yardsinwidth，thebankswereaboutthirtyfeetperpendiculardepth。andthebendoftheriverhadcausedtheformationofthedeephollowontheoppositesidewhichnowformedthepool，whileeveryotherpartwasdry。Thispooloccupiedaboutone-thirdthebreadthoftheriver，boundedbythesandupononeside，andbyaperpendicularcliffupontheother，uponwhichgrewafringeofgreenbushessimilartowillows。TheseweretheonlysucculentleavesthatIhadseensinceIleftBerber。
WedescendedthesteepsandybankinaspotthattheArabshadbrokendowntoreachthewater，andaftertrudgingacrossabout400yardsofdeepsand，wereachedtheextremeandnarrowestendofthepool。hereforthefirsttimeIsawthepeculiarfour-toedprintofthehippopotamus'sfoot。AbedofmelonshadbeenplantedherebytheArabsinthemoistsandnearthewater，butthefruithadbeenentirelyrobbedbythehippopotami。Amelonisexactlyadaptedforthemouthofthisanimal，ashecouldcrunchthelargestatonesqueeze，andrevelinthejuice。Notcontentedwiththesimplefruitsofthegarden，alargebullhippopotamushadrecentlykilledtheproprietor。TheArabwishedtodriveitfromhisplantation，butwasimmediatelyattackedbythehippo，whocaughthiminitsmouthandkilledhimbyonecrunch。Thislittleincidenthadrenderedthehippoexceedinglydaring，andithaduponseveraloccasionschargedoutofthewater，whenthepeoplehaddriventheirgoatstodrink。thereforeitwouldbethemoresatisfactorytoobtainashot，andtosupplythehungryArabswithmeatattheexpenseoftheirenemy。
Atthisearlyhour，6A。M。，noonehaddescendedtothepool，thusallthetracksuponthemarginwerefreshandundisturbed:
therewerethehugemarksofcrocodilesthathadrecentlyreturnedtothewater，whilemanyofgreatsizewerestilllyinguponthesandinthedistance:theseslowlycreptintothepoolasweapproached。TheArabshaddugsmallholesinthesandwithinafewyardsofthewater:theseweretheartificialdrinking-placesfortheirgoatsandsheep，thatwouldhavebeensnappedupbythecrocodileshadtheyventuredtodrinkinthepoolofcrowdedmonsters。Iwalkedforaboutamileandahalfalongthesandwithoutseeingasignofhippopotami，excepttheirnumeroustracksuponthemargin。Therewasnowind，andthesurfaceofthewaterwasunruffled。thusIcouldseeeverycreaturethatroseinthepooleithertobreatheortobaskinthemorningsunshine。Thenumberandsizeofthefish，turtles，andcrocodileswereextraordinary。manybeautifulgazellesapproachedfromallsidesfortheirmorningdraught:wildgeese，generallyinpairs，disturbedthewarycrocodilesbytheircryofalarmaswedrewnear，andthedesertgrouseinflocksofmanythousandshadgatheredtogether，andwerecirclinginarapidflightabovethewater，wishing，butafraid，todescendanddrink。Havingashotgunwithme，Ifiredandkilledsixatonedischarge，butoneofthewoundedbirdshavingfallenintothewateratadistanceofabout120yards，itwasimmediatelyseizedbyawhite-throatedfish-eagle，whichpercheduponatree，swoopeddownuponthebird，utterlydisregardingthereportofthegun。TheBishareenArabshavenofire-arms，thusthesoundofagunwasunknowntothegameofthedesert。
Ihadkilledseveralwildgeeseforbreakfastintheabsenceofthehippopotami，whenIsuddenlyheardthepeculiarloudsnortingneighoftheseanimalsinmyrear。wehadpassedthemunperceived，astheyhadbeenbeneaththesurface。Afteraquickwalkofabouthalfamile，duringwhichtimethecryofthehipposhadbeenseveraltimesrepeated，Iobservedsixofthesecuriousanimalsstandinginthewateraboutshoulder-deep。Therewasnocover，thereforeIcouldonlyadvanceuponthesandwithoutachanceofstalkingthem。thiscausedthemtoretreattodeeperwater，butuponmyarrivalwithinabouteightyyards，theyraisedtheirheadswellup，andsnortedanimpudentchallenge。I
hadmyoldCeylonNo。10doublerifle，and，takingasteadyaimatthetempleofonethatappearedtobethelargest，theballcrackedloudlyupontheskull。Neverhadtherebeensuchacommotioninthepoolasnow!Atthereportoftherifle，fiveheadssankanddisappearedlikestones，butthesixthhippoleapedhalfoutofthewater，and，fallingbackwards，commencedaseriesofviolentstruggles:nowuponhisback。thenupononeside，withallfourlegsfranticallypaddling，andraisingacloudofsprayandfoam。thenwaltzingroundandroundwithitshugejawswideopen，raisingaswellinthehithertocalmsurfaceofthewater。Aquickshotwiththeleft-handbarrelproducednoeffect，asthemovementsoftheanimalweretoorapidtoallowasteadyaimattheforehead。IaccordinglytookmytrmistylittleFletcher*doublerifleNo。24，and，runningknee-deepintothewatertoobtainacloseshot，Ifiredexactlybetweentheeyes，nearthecrownofthehead。AtthereportofthelittleFletcherthehippodisappeared。thetinywavesraisedbythecommotionbrokeuponthesand，butthegamewasgone。
*ThisexcellentandhandyriflewasmadebyThomasFletcher，ofGloucester，andaccompaniedmelikeafaithfuldogthroughoutmyjourneyofnearlyfiveyearstotheAlbertN'yanza，andreturnedwithmetoEnglandasgoodasnew。
Thisbeingmyfirstvis-a-viswithahippo，IwasnotcertainwhetherIcouldclaimthevictory。hewasgone，butwhere?
However，whileIwasspeculatinguponthecase，Iheardatremendousrushofwater，andIsawfivehippopotamitearingalonginfulltrotthroughaportionofthepoolthatwasnotdeepenoughtocoverthemabovetheshoulder:thiswastheaffairofabouthalfaminute，astheyquicklyreacheddeepwater，anddisappearedataboutahundredandfiftyyards'distance。
ThefactoffivehipposinretreatafterIhadcountedsixintheonsetwasconclusivethatmywaltzingfriendwaseitherdeadordisabled。Iaccordinglylostnotimeinfollowingthedirectionoftheherd。HardlyhadIarrivedatthespotwheretheyhaddisappeared，whenfirstoneandthenanotherheadpoppedupandagainsank，untilonemorehardythantherestventuredtoappearwithinfiftyyards，andtobellowasbefore。OncemoretheNo。10
crashedthroughhishead，andagainthewaltzingandstrugglingcommencedlikethepaddlingofasteamer:thistime，however，thestunnedhippoinitsconvulsiveeffortscamesoclosetotheshorethatIkilleditdirectlyinshallowwater，byaforeheadshotwiththelittleFletcher。Iconcludedfromthisresultthatmyfirsthippomustalsobelyingdeadindeepwater。
TheArabs，havingheardtheshotsfired，hadbeguntogathertowardsthespot，and，uponmymenshoutingthatahippowaskilled，crowdscamerunningtotheplacewiththeirknivesandropes，whileothersreturnedtotheirencampmenttofetchcamelsandmatbagstoconveytheflesh。InhalfanhouratleastthreehundredArabswereonthespot。thehippohadbeenhauledtoshorebyropes，and，bytheunitedeffortsofthecrowd，theheavycarcasehadbeenrolledtotheedgeofthewater。Heretheattackcommenced。nopackofhungryhyaenascouldhavebeenmoresavage。Igavethempermissiontotaketheflesh，andinaninstantahundredkniveswereatwork:theyfoughtoverthespoillikewolves。Nosoonerwasthecarcaseflayedthanthestrugglecommencedforthemeat。thepeoplewereamassofblood，assomestoodthigh-deepinthereekingintestineswrestlingforthefat，whilemanyhackedateachother'shandsforcovetedportionsthatwerestrivenforasabonnebouche。Ileftthesavagecrowdintheirferociousenjoymentoffleshandblood，andIreturnedtocampforbreakfast，myTurk，HadjiAchmet，carryingsomehippopotamussteaks。
ThatmorningmywifeandIbreakfasteduponourfirsthippo，ananimalthatwasdestinedtobeourgeneralfoodthroughoutourjourneyamongtheAbyssiniantributariesoftheNile。AfterbreakfastwestrolleddowntothepooltosearchforthehippopotamusNo。1。Thisweatoncefound，dead，asithadrisentothesurface，andwasfloatinglikethebackofaturtleafewinchesabovethewater。TheArabshadbeensointentuponthedivisionoftheirspoilthattheyhadnotobservedtheirnewprize。accordingly，uponthesignalbeinggiven，ageneralrushtookplace，andinhalfanhourasimilarscenewasenactedtothatofhippoNo。2。
TheentireArabcampwasincommotionandfullofjoyatthisunlooked-forarrivalofflesh。Camelsladenwithmeatandhidetoiledalongthesandybedoftheriver。thewomenraisedtheirlongandshrillcryofdelight。andwewerelookeduponasgeneralbenefactorsforhavingbroughtthemasupplyofgoodfoodinthisseasonofdistress。IntheafternoonIarrangedmytackle，andstrolleddowntothepooltofish。Therewasadifficultyinprocuringbait。awormwasneverheardofintheburningdesertsofNubia，neitherhadIanettocatchsmallfish。Iwasthereforeobligedtobaitwithpiecesofhippopotamnus。FishinginsuchapoolasthatoftheAtbarawassufficientlyexciting，asitwasimpossibletospeculateuponwhatcreaturemightaccepttheinvitation。buttheArabswhoaccompaniedmewereparticularinguardingmeagainstthepositionIhadtakenunderawillow-bushclosetothewater，astheyexplained，thatmostprobablyacrocodilewouldtakemeinsteadofthebait。theydeclaredthataccidentshadfrequentlyhappenedwhenpeoplehadsatuponthebankeithertodrinkwiththeirhands，orevenwhilewatchingtheirgoats。Iaccordinglyfishedatafewfeetdistantfromthemargin，andpresentlyIhadabite。Ilandedaspeciesofperchabouttwopounds'weight。
thiswasthe"boulti，"oneofthebestNilefishmentionedbythetravellerBruce。InashorttimeIhadcaughtarespectabledishoffish，buthithertonomonsterhadpaidmetheslightestattention。accordinglyIchangedmybait，anduponapowerfulhook，fittedupontreble-twistedwire，Ifastenedanenticingstripofaboulti。Thebaitwasaboutfourounces，andglistenedlikesilver。thewaterwastolerablyclear，butnottoobright，andwithsuchanattractionIexpectedsomethingheavy。Myfloatwasalarge-sizedpike-floatforlivebait，andthiscivilizedsignhadbeenonlyafewminutesinthewildwatersoftheAtbara，when，bob!andawayitwent!Ihadaverylargereel，withnearlythreehundredyardsoflinethathadbeenspeciallymadeformonsters。downwentthetopofmyrod，asthoughagrindstonewassuspendedonit，and，asIrecovereditsposition，awaywenttheline，andthereelrevolved，notwiththesuddendashofaspiritedfish，butwiththesteadydeterminedpullofatrottinghorse。WhatonearthhaveIgotholdof?Inafewminutesaboutahundredyardsoflinewereout，andasthecreaturewassteadilybutslowlytravellingdownthecentreofthechannel，Ideterminedtocry"halt!"ifpossible，asmytacklewasextremelystrong，andmyrodwasasinglebamboo。