TheLeedsandSkiptonrailwayrunsalongadeepvalleyoftheAire;aslowandsluggishstream,comparedtotheneighbouringriverofWharfe。Keighleystationisonthislineofrailway,aboutaquarterofamilefromthetownofthesamename。ThenumberofinhabitantsandtheimportanceofKeighleyhavebeenverygreatlyincreasedduringthelasttwentyyears,owingtotherapidlyextendedmarketforworstedmanufactures,abranchofindustrythatmainlyemploysthefactorypopulationofthispartofYorkshire,whichhasBradfordforitscentreandmetropolis。
Keighleyisinprocessoftransformationfromapopulous,old-
fashionedvillage,intoastillmorepopulousandflourishingtown。Itisevidenttothestranger,thatasthegable-endedhouses,whichobtrudethemselvescorner-wiseonthewideningstreet,fallvacant,theyarepulleddowntoallowofgreaterspacefortraffic,andamoremodernstyleofarchitecture。Thequaintandnarrowshop-windowsoffiftyyearsago,aregivingwaytolargepanesandplate-glass。Nearlyeverydwellingseemsdevotedtosomebranchofcommerce。Inpassinghastilythroughthetown,onehardlyperceiveswherethenecessarylawyeranddoctorcanlive,solittleappearanceisthereofanydwellingsoftheprofessionalmiddle-class,suchasaboundinouroldcathedraltowns。Infact,nothingcanbemoreopposedthanthestateofsociety,themodesofthinking,thestandardsofreferenceonallpointsofmorality,manners,andevenpoliticsandreligion,insuchanewmanufacturingplaceasKeighleyinthenorth,andanystately,sleepy,picturesquecathedraltowninthesouth。YettheaspectofKeighleypromiseswellforfuturestateliness,ifnotpicturesqueness。Greystoneabounds;andtherowsofhousesbuiltofithaveakindofsolidgrandeurconnectedwiththeiruniformandenduringlines。Theframe-workofthedoors,andthelintelsofthewindows,eveninthesmallestdwellings,aremadeofblocksofstone。Thereisnopaintedwoodtorequirecontinualbeautifying,orelsepresentashabbyaspect;andthestoneiskeptscrupulouslycleanbythenotableYorkshirehousewives。Suchglimpsesintotheinteriorasapasser-byobtains,revealaroughabundanceofthemeansofliving,anddiligentandactivehabitsinthewomen。Butthevoicesofthepeoplearehard,andtheirtonesdiscordant,promisinglittleofthemusicaltastethatdistinguishesthedistrict,andwhichhasalreadyfurnishedaCarrodustothemusicalworld。Thenamesovertheshopsofwhichtheonejustgivenisasampleseemstrangeeventoaninhabitantoftheneighbouringcounty,andhaveapeculiarsmackandflavouroftheplace。
ThetownofKeighleyneverquitemeltsintocountryontheroadtoHaworth,althoughthehousesbecomemoresparseasthetravellerjourneysupwardstothegreyroundhillsthatseemtoboundhisjourneyinawesterlydirection。Firstcomesomevillas;justsufficientlyretiredfromtheroadtoshowthattheycanscarcelybelongtoanyoneliabletobesummonedinahurry,atthecallofsufferingordanger,fromhiscomfortablefire-side;thelawyer,thedoctor,andtheclergyman,liveathand,andhardlyinthesuburbs,withascreenofshrubsforconcealment。
Inatownonedoesnotlookforvividcolouring;whattheremaybeofthisisfurnishedbythewaresintheshops,notbyfoliageoratmosphericeffects;butinthecountrysomebrilliancyandvividnessseemstobeinstinctivelyexpected,andthereisconsequentlyaslightfeelingofdisappointmentatthegreyneutraltintofeveryobject,nearorfaroff,onthewayfromKeighleytoHaworth。Thedistanceisaboutfourmiles;and,asI
havesaid,whatwithvillas,greatworstedfactories,rowsofworkmen’shouses,withhereandthereanold-fashionedfarmhouseandoutbuildings,itcanhardlybecalled"country"anypartoftheway。Fortwomilestheroadpassesovertolerablylevelground,distanthillsontheleft,a"beck"flowingthroughmeadowsontheright,andfurnishingwaterpower,atcertainpoints,tothefactoriesbuiltonitsbanks。Theairisdimandlightlesswiththesmokefromallthesehabitationsandplacesofbusiness。Thesoilinthevalleyor"bottom,"tousethelocaltermisrich;but,astheroadbeginstoascend,thevegetationbecomespoorer;itdoesnotflourish,itmerelyexists;and,insteadoftrees,thereareonlybushesandshrubsaboutthedwellings。Stonedykesareeverywhereusedinplaceofhedges;
andwhatcropsthereare,onthepatchesofarableland,consistofpale,hungry-looking,greygreenoats。RightbeforethetravelleronthisroadrisesHaworthvillage;hecanseeitfortwomilesbeforehearrives,foritissituatedonthesideofaprettysteephill,withaback-groundofdunandpurplemoors,risingandsweepingawayyethigherthanthechurch,whichisbuiltattheverysummitofthelongnarrowstreet。Allroundthehorizonthereisthissamelineofsinuouswave-likehills;thescoopsintowhichtheyfallonlyrevealingotherhillsbeyond,ofsimilarcolourandshape,crownedwithwild,bleakmoors——grand,fromtheideasofsolitudeandlonelinesswhichtheysuggest,oroppressivefromthefeelingwhichtheygiveofbeingpent-upbysomemonotonousandillimitablebarrier,accordingtothemoodofmindinwhichthespectatormaybe。
ForashortdistancetheroadappearstoturnawayfromHaworth,asitwindsroundthebaseoftheshoulderofahill;butthenitcrossesabridgeoverthe"beck,"andtheascentthroughthevillagebegins。Theflag-stoneswithwhichitispavedareplacedend-ways,inordertogiveabetterholdtothehorses’feet;and,evenwiththishelp,theyseemtobeinconstantdangerofslippingbackwards。Theoldstonehousesarehighcomparedtothewidthofthestreet,whichmakesanabruptturnbeforereachingthemorelevelgroundattheheadofthevillage,sothatthesteepaspectoftheplace,inonepart,isalmostlikethatofawall。Butthissurmounted,thechurchliesalittleoffthemainroadontheleft;ahundredyards,orso,andthedriverrelaxeshiscare,andthehorsebreathesmoreeasily,astheypassintothequitelittleby-streetthatleadstoHaworthParsonage。Thechurchyardisononesideofthislane,theschool-houseandthesexton’sdwellingwherethecuratesformerlylodgedontheother。
Theparsonagestandsatrightanglestotheroad,facingdownuponthechurch;sothat,infact,parsonage,church,andbelfriedschool-house,formthreesidesofanirregularoblong,ofwhichthefourthisopentothefieldsandmoorsthatliebeyond。Theareaofthisoblongisfilledupbyacrowdedchurchyard,andasmallgardenorcourtinfrontoftheclergyman’shouse。Astheentrancetothisfromtheroadisattheside,thepathgoesroundthecornerintothelittleplotofground。Underneaththewindowsisanarrowflower-border,carefullytendedindaysofyore,althoughonlythemosthardyplantscouldbemadetogrowthere。
Withinthestonewall,whichkeepsoutthesurroundingchurchyard,arebushesofelderandlilac;therestofthegroundisoccupiedbyasquaregrass-plotandagravelwalk。Thehouseisofgreystone,twostorieshigh,heavilyroofedwithflags,inordertoresistthewindsthatmightstripoffalightercovering。Itappearstohavebeenbuiltaboutahundredyearsago,andtoconsistoffourroomsoneachstory;thetwowindowsontherightasthevisitorstandswithhisbacktothechurch,readytoenterinatthefrontdoorbelongingtoMr。Bronte’sstudy,thetwoonthelefttothefamilysitting-room。Everythingabouttheplacetellsofthemostdaintyorder,themostexquisitecleanliness。
Thedoor-stepsarespotless;thesmallold-fashionedwindow-panesglitterlikelooking-glass。Insideandoutsideofthathousecleanlinessgoesupintoitsessence,purity。
Thelittlechurchlies,asImentioned,abovemostofthehousesinthevillage;andthegraveyardrisesabovethechurch,andisterriblyfullofuprighttombstones。Thechapelorchurchclaimsgreaterantiquitythananyotherinthatpartofthekingdom;butthereisnoappearanceofthisintheexternalaspectofthepresentedifice,unlessitbeinthetwoeasternwindows,whichremainunmodernized,andinthelowerpartofthesteeple。
Inside,thecharacterofthepillarsshowsthattheywereconstructedbeforethereignofHenryVII。Itisprobablethatthereexistedonthisground,a"field-kirk,"ororatory,intheearliesttimes;and,fromtheArchbishop’sregistryatYork,itisascertainedthattherewasachapelatHaworthin1317。Theinhabitantsreferinquirersconcerningthedatetothefollowinginscriptiononastoneinthechurchtower:-
"HicfecitCaenobiumMonachorumAutestefundator。A。D。
sexcentissimo。"
Thatistosay,beforethepreachingofChristianityinNorthumbria。Whitakersaysthatthismistakeoriginatedintheilliteratecopyingout,bysomemodernstone-cutter,ofaninscriptioninthecharacterofHenrytheEighth’stimeonanadjoiningstone:-
"OrateprobonostatuEutestTod。"
"Noweveryantiquaryknowsthattheformulaofprayer’bonostatu’
alwaysreferstotheliving。IsuspectthissingularChristiannamehasbeenmistakenbythestone-cutterforAustet,acontractionofEustatius,butthewordTod,whichhasbeenmis-
readfortheArabicfigures600,isperfectlyfairandlegible。
Onthepresumptionofthisfoolishclaimtoantiquity,thepeoplewouldneedssetupforindependence,andcontesttherightoftheVicarofBradfordtonominateacurateatHaworth。"
Ihavegiventhisextract,inordertoexplaintheimaginarygroundworkofacommotionwhichtookplaceinHaworthaboutfiveandthirtyyearsago,towhichIshallhaveoccasiontoalludeagainmoreparticularly。
Theinteriorofthechurchiscommonplace;itisneitheroldenoughnormodernenoughtocompelnotice。Thepewsareofblackoak,withhighdivisions;andthenamesofthosetowhomtheybelongarepaintedinwhitelettersonthedoors。Thereareneitherbrasses,noraltar-tombs,normonuments,butthereisamuraltabletontheright-handsideofthecommunion-table,bearingthefollowinginscription:-
HERE
LIETHEREMAINSOF
MARIABRONTE,WIFE
OFTHE
REV。P。BRONTE,A。B。,MINISTEROPHAWORTH。
HERSOUL
DEPARTEDTOTHESAVIOUR,SEPT。15TH,1821,INTHE39THYEAROFHERAGE。
"Beyealsoready:forinsuchanhourasyethinknottheSonofMancometh。"MATTHEWxxiv。44。
ALSOHERELIETHEREMAINSOF
MARIABRONTE,DAUGHTEROFTHEAFORESAID;
SHEDIEDONTHE
6THOFMAY,1825,INTHE12THYEAROFHERAGE;
ANDOF
ELIZABETHBRONTE,HERSISTER,WHODIEDJUNE15TH,1825,INTHE11THYEAROFHERAGE。
"VerilyIsayuntoyou,Exceptyebeconverted,andbecomeaslittlechildren,yeshallnotenterintothekingdomofheaven。"——
MATTHEWxviii。3。
HEREALSOLIETHEREMAINSOF
PATRICKBRANWELLBRONTE,WHODIEDSEPT。24TH,1848,AGED3OYEARS;
ANDOF
EMILYJANEBRONTE,WHODIEDDEC。19TH,1848,AGED29YEARS,SONANDDAUGHTEROFTHE
REV。P。BRONTE,INCUMBENT。
THISSTONEISALSODEDICATEDTOTHE
MEMORYOFANNEBRONTE,{1}
YOUNGESTDAUGHTEROFTHEREV。P。BRONTE,A。B。
SHEDIED,AGED27YEARS,MAY28TH,1849,ANDWASBURIEDATTHEOLDCHURCH,SCARBORO。’
Attheupperpartofthistabletamplespaceisallowedbetweenthelinesoftheinscription;whenthefirstmemorialswerewrittendown,thesurvivors,intheirfondaffection,thoughtlittleofthemarginandvergetheywereleavingforthosewhowerestillliving。Butasonedeadmemberofthehouseholdfollowsanotherfasttothegrave,thelinesarepressedtogether,andthelettersbecomesmallandcramped。AftertherecordofAnne’sdeath,thereisroomfornoother。
Butonemoreofthatgeneration——thelastofthatnurseryofsixlittlemotherlesschildren——wasyettofollow,beforethesurvivor,thechildlessandwidowedfather,foundhisrest。Onanothertablet,belowthefirst,thefollowingrecordhasbeenaddedtothatmournfullist:-
ADJOININGLIETHEREMAINSOF
CHARLOTTE,WIFE
OFTHE
REV。ARTHURBELLNICHOLLS,A。B。,ANDDAUGHTEROFTHEREV。P。BRONTE,A。B。,INCUMBENT
SHEDIEDMARCH31ST,1855,INTHE39TH
YEAROFHERAGE。{2}
Thistablet,whichcorrectstheerrorintheformertabletastotheageofAnneBronte,bearsthefollowinginscriptioninRomanletters;theinitials,however,beinginoldEnglish。
InMemoryofMaria,wifeoftheRev。P。Bronte,A。B。,MinisterofHaworth,ShediedSept。15th,1821,inthe39thyearofherage。
Also,ofMaria,theirdaughter,whodiedMay6th,1825,inthe12thyearofherage。
Also,ofElizabeth,theirdaughter,whodiedJune15th,1825,inthe11thyearofherage。
Also,ofPatrickBranwell,theirson,whodiedSept。24th,1848,aged31years。
Also,ofEmilyJane,theirdaughter,whodiedDec。19th,1848,aged30years。
Also,ofAnne,theirdaughter,whodiedMay28th,1849,aged29
years。ShewasburiedattheOldChurch,Scarborough。
Also,ofCharlotte,theirdaughter,wifeoftheRev。A。B。
Nicholls,B。A。ShediedMarch31st,1855,inthe39thyearofherage。
"Thestingofdeathissin,andthestrengthofsinisthelaw,butthanksbetoGodwhichgivethusthevictorythroughourLordJesusChrist。"——1Cor。xv。56,57。
CHAPTERII
Forarightunderstandingofthelifeofmydearfriend,CharlotteBronte,itappearstomemorenecessaryinhercasethaninmostothers,thatthereadershouldbemadeacquaintedwiththepeculiarformsofpopulationandsocietyamidstwhichherearliestyearswerepassed,andfromwhichbothherownandhersisters’
firstimpressionsofhumanlifemusthavebeenreceived。Ishallendeavour,therefore,beforeproceedingfurtherwithmywork,topresentsomeideaofthecharacterofthepeopleofHaworth,andthesurroundingdistricts。
EvenaninhabitantoftheneighbouringcountyofLancasterisstruckbythepeculiarforceofcharacterwhichtheYorkshiremendisplay。Thismakestheminterestingasarace;while,atthesametime,asindividuals,theremarkabledegreeofself-
sufficiencytheypossessgivesthemanairofindependenceratherapttorepelastranger。Iusethisexpression"self-sufficiency"
inthelargestsense。ConsciousofthestrongsagacityandthedoggedpowerofwillwhichseemalmostthebirthrightofthenativesoftheWestRiding,eachmanreliesuponhimself,andseeksnohelpatthehandsofhisneighbour。Fromrarelyrequiringtheassistanceofothers,hecomestodoubtthepowerofbestowingit:fromthegeneralsuccessofhisefforts,hegrowstodependuponthem,andtoover-esteemhisownenergyandpower。
Hebelongstothatkeen,yetshort-sightedclass,whoconsidersuspicionofallwhosehonestyisnotprovedasasignofwisdom。
Thepracticalqualitiesofamanareheldingreatrespect;butthewantoffaithinstrangersanduntriedmodesofaction,extendsitselfeventothemannerinwhichthevirtuesareregarded;andiftheyproducenoimmediateandtangibleresult,theyareratherputasideasunfitforthisbusy,strivingworld;
especiallyiftheyaremoreofapassivethananactivecharacter。
Theaffectionsarestrongandtheirfoundationsliedeep:buttheyarenot——suchaffectionsseldomare——wide-spreading;nordotheyshowthemselvesonthesurface。Indeed,thereislittledisplayofanyoftheamenitiesoflifeamongthiswild,roughpopulation。Theiraccostiscurt;theiraccentandtoneofspeechbluntandharsh。Somethingofthismay,probably,beattributedtothefreedomofmountainairandofisolatedhill-sidelife;
somethingbederivedfromtheirroughNorseancestry。Theyhaveaquickperceptionofcharacter,andakeensenseofhumour;thedwellersamongthemmustbepreparedforcertainuncomplimentary,thoughmostlikelytrue,observations,pithilyexpressed。Theirfeelingsarenoteasilyroused,buttheirdurationislasting。
Hencethereismuchclosefriendshipandfaithfulservice;andforacorrectexemplificationoftheforminwhichthelatterfrequentlyappears,Ineedonlyreferthereaderof"WutheringHeights"tothecharacterof"Joseph。"
Fromthesamecausecomealsoenduringgrudges,insomecasesamountingtohatred,whichoccasionallyhasbeenbequeathedfromgenerationtogeneration。IrememberMissBronteoncetellingmethatitwasasayingroundaboutHaworth,"Keepastoneinthypocketsevenyear;turnit,andkeepitsevenyearlonger,thatitmaybeeverreadytothinehandwhenthineenemydrawsnear。"
TheWestRidingmenaresleuth-houndsinpursuitofmoney。MissBronterelatedtomyhusbandacuriousinstanceillustrativeofthiseagerdesireforriches。Amanthatsheknew,whowasasmallmanufacturer,hadengagedinmanylocalspeculationswhichhadalwaysturnedoutwell,andtherebyrenderedhimapersonofsomewealth。Hewasratherpastmiddleage,whenhebethoughthimofinsuringhislife;andhehadonlyjusttakenouthispolicy,whenhefellillofanacutediseasewhichwascertaintoendfatallyinaveryfewdays。Thedoctor,half-hesitatingly,revealedtohimhishopelessstate。"Byjingo!"criedhe,rousingupatonceintotheoldenergy,"IshallDOtheinsurancecompany!
Ialwayswasaluckyfellow!"
Thesemenarekeenandshrewd;faithfulandperseveringinfollowingoutagoodpurpose,fellintrackinganevilone。Theyarenotemotional;theyarenoteasilymadeintoeitherfriendsorenemies;butonceloversorhaters,itisdifficulttochangetheirfeeling。Theyareapowerfulracebothinmindandbody,bothforgoodandforevil。
ThewoollenmanufacturewasintroducedintothisdistrictinthedaysofEdwardIII。ItistraditionallysaidthatacolonyofFlemingscameoverandsettledintheWestRidingtoteachtheinhabitantswhattodowiththeirwool。ThemixtureofagriculturalwithmanufacturinglabourthatensuedandprevailedintheWestRidinguptoaveryrecentperiod,soundspleasantenoughatthisdistanceoftime,whentheclassicalimpressionisleft,andthedetailsforgotten,oronlybroughttolightbythosewhoexplorethefewremotepartsofEnglandwherethecustomstilllingers。Theideaofthemistressandhermaidensspinningatthegreatwheelswhilethemasterwasabroadploughinghisfields,orseeingafterhisflocksonthepurplemoors,isverypoeticaltolookbackupon;butwhensuchlifeactuallytouchesonourowndays,andwecanhearparticularsfromthelipsofthosenowliving,therecomeoutdetailsofcoarseness——oftheuncouthnessoftherusticmingledwiththesharpnessofthetradesman——ofirregularityandfiercelawlessness——thatrathermarthevisionofpastoralinnocenceandsimplicity。Still,asitistheexceptionalandexaggeratedcharacteristicsofanyperiodthatleavethemostvividmemorybehindthem,itwouldbewrong,andinmyopinionfaithless,toconcludethatsuchandsuchformsofsocietyandmodesoflivingwerenotbestfortheperiodwhentheyprevailed,althoughtheabusestheymayhaveledinto,andthegradualprogressoftheworld,havemadeitwellthatsuchwaysandmannersshouldpassawayforever,andaspreposteroustoattempttoreturntothem,asitwouldbeforamantoreturntotheclothesofhischildhood。
ThepatentgrantedtoAldermanCockayne,andthefurtherrestrictionsimposedbyJamesI。ontheexportofundyedwoollenclothsmetbyaprohibitiononthepartoftheStatesofHollandoftheimportofEnglish-dyedcloths,injuredthetradeoftheWestRidingmanufacturersconsiderably。Theirindependenceofcharacter,theirdislikeofauthority,andtheirstrongpowersofthought,predisposedthemtorebellionagainstthereligiousdictationofsuchmenasLaud,andthearbitraryruleoftheStuarts;andtheinjurydonebyJamesandCharlestothetradebywhichtheygainedtheirbread,madethegreatmajorityofthemCommonwealthmen。IshallhaveoccasionafterwardstogiveoneortwoinstancesofthewarmfeelingsandextensiveknowledgeonsubjectsofbothhomeandforeignpoliticsexistingatthepresentdayinthevillageslyingwestandeastofthemountainousridgethatseparatesYorkshireandLancashire;theinhabitantsofwhichareofthesameraceandpossessthesamequalityofcharacter。
ThedescendantsofmanywhoservedunderCromwellatDunbar,liveonthesamelandsastheirancestorsoccupiedthen;andperhapsthereisnopartofEnglandwherethetraditionalandfondrecollectionsoftheCommonwealthhavelingeredsolongasinthatinhabitedbythewoollenmanufacturingpopulationoftheWestRiding,whohadtherestrictionstakenofftheirtradebytheProtector’sadmirablecommercialpolicy。Ihaveitongoodauthoritythat,notthirtyyearsago,thephrase,"inOliver’sdays,"wasincommonusetodenoteatimeofunusualprosperity。
TheclassofChristiannamesprevalentinadistrictisoneindicationofthedirectioninwhichitstideofhero-worshipsets。Graveenthusiastsinpoliticsorreligionperceivenottheludicroussideofthosewhichtheygivetotheirchildren;andsomearetobefound,stillintheirinfancy,notadozenmilesfromHaworth,thatwillhavetogothroughlifeasLamartine,Kossuth,andDembinsky。AndsothereisatestimonytowhatI
havesaid,ofthetraditionalfeelingofthedistrict,inthefactthattheOldTestamentnamesingeneraluseamongthePuritansareyettheprevalentappellationsinmostYorkshirefamiliesofmiddleorhumblerank,whatevertheirreligiouspersuasionmaybe。
Therearenumerousrecords,too,thatshowthekindlywayinwhichtheejectedministerswerereceivedbythegentry,aswellasbythepoorerpartoftheinhabitants,duringthepersecutingdaysofCharlesII。Theselittlefactsalltestifytotheoldhereditaryspiritofindependence,readyevertoresistauthoritywhichwasconceivedtobeunjustlyexercised,thatdistinguishesthepeopleoftheWestRidingtothepresentday。
TheparishofHalifaxtouchesthatofBradford,inwhichthechapelryofHaworthisincluded;andthenatureofthegroundinthetwoparishesismuchtheofthesamewildandhillydescription。Theabundanceofcoal,andthenumberofmountainstreamsinthedistrict,makeithighlyfavourabletomanufactures;andaccordingly,asIstated,theinhabitantshaveforcenturiesbeenengagedinmakingcloth,aswellasinagriculturalpursuits。Buttheintercourseoftradefailed,foralongtime,tobringamenityandcivilizationintotheseoutlyinghamlets,orwidelyscattereddwellings。Mr。Hunter,inhis"LifeofOliverHeywood,"quotesasentenceoutofamemorialofoneJamesRither,livinginthereignofElizabeth,whichispartiallytruetothisday:-
"Theyhavenosuperiortocourt,nocivilitiestopractise:asourandsturdyhumouristheconsequence,sothatastrangerisshockedbyatoneofdefianceineveryvoice,andanairoffiercenessineverycountenance。"
Evennow,astrangercanhardlyaskaquestionwithoutreceivingsomecrustyreply,if,indeed,hereceiveanyatall。Sometimesthesourrudenessamountstopositiveinsult。Yet,ifthe"foreigner"takesallthischurlishnessgood-humouredly,orasamatterofcourse,andmakesgoodanyclaimupontheirlatentkindlinessandhospitality,theyarefaithfulandgenerous,andthoroughlytobereliedupon。Asaslightillustrationoftheroughnessthatpervadesallclassesintheseout-of-the-wayvillages,Imayrelatealittleadventurewhichhappenedtomyhusbandandmyself,threeyearsago,atAddingham-
FromPenigenttoPendleHill,FromLintontoLong-ADDINGHAM
AndallthatCravencoastsdidtell,&c-
oneoftheplacesthatsentforthitsfightingmentothefamousoldbattleofFloddenField,andavillagenotmanymilesfromHaworth。
Weweredrivingalongthestreet,whenoneofthosene’er-do-weelladswhoseemtohaveakindofmagneticpowerformisfortunes,havingjumpedintothestreamthatrunsthroughtheplace,justwhereallthebrokenglassandbottlesarethrown,staggerednakedandnearlycoveredwithbloodintoacottagebeforeus。Besidesreceivinganotherbadcutinthearm,hehadcompletelylaidopentheartery,andwasinafairwayofbleedingtodeath——which,oneofhisrelationscomfortedhimbysaying,wouldbelikelyto"saveadealo’trouble。"
Whenmyhusbandhadcheckedtheeffusionofbloodwithastrapthatoneofthebystandersunbuckledfromhisleg,heaskedifasurgeonhadbeensentfor。
"Yoi,"wastheanswer;"butwedunnathinkhe’llcome。"
"Whynot?"
"He’sowd,yoseen,andasthmatic,andit’sup-hill。"
Myhusbandtakingaboyforhisguide,droveasfastashecouldtothesurgeon’shouse,whichwasaboutthree-quartersofamileoff,andmettheauntofthewoundedladleavingit。
"Ishecoming?"inquiredmyhusband。
"Well,hedidna’sayhewouldna’come。"
"But,tellhimtheladmaybleedtodeath。"
"Idid。"
"Andwhatdidhesay?"
"Why,only,’D-nhim;whatdoIcare?’"
Itended,however,inhissendingoneofhissons,who,thoughnotbroughtupto"thesurgeringtrade,"wasabletodowhatwasnecessaryinthewayofbandagesandplasters。Theexcusemadeforthesurgeonwas,that"hewasneareighty,andgettingabitdoited,andhadhadamattero’twentychilder。"
Amongthemostunmovedofthelookers-onwasthebrotheroftheboysobadlyhurt;andwhilehewaslyinginapoolofbloodontheflagfloor,andcryingouthowmuchhisarmwas"warching,"
hisstoicalrelationstoodcoollysmokinghisbitofblackpipe,andutterednotasinglewordofeithersympathyorsorrow。
Forestcustoms,existinginthefringesofdarkwood,whichclothedthedeclivityofthehillsoneitherside,tendedtobrutalizethepopulationuntilthemiddleoftheseventeenthcentury。Executionbybeheadingwasperformedinasummarywayuponeithermenorwomenwhowereguiltyofbutveryslightcrimes;andadogged,yetinsomecasesfine,indifferencetohumanlifewasthusgenerated。Theroadsweresonotoriouslybad,evenuptothelastthirtyyears,thattherewaslittlecommunicationbetweenonevillageandanother;iftheproduceofindustrycouldbeconveyedatstatedtimestotheclothmarketofthedistrict,itwasallthatcouldbedone;and,inlonelyhousesonthedistanthill-side,orbythesmallmagnatesofsecludedhamlets,crimesmightbecommittedalmostunknown,certainlywithoutanygreatuprisingofpopularindignationcalculatedtobringdownthestrongarmofthelaw。Itmustberememberedthatinthosedaystherewasnoruralconstabulary;andthefewmagistrateslefttothemselves,andgenerallyrelatedtooneanother,weremostoftheminclinedtotolerateeccentricity,andtowinkatfaultstoomuchliketheirown。
Menhardlypastmiddlelifetalkofthedaysoftheiryouth,spentinthispartofthecountry,when,duringthewintermonths,theyrodeuptothesaddle-girthsinmud;whenabsolutebusinesswastheonlyreasonforstirringbeyondtheprecinctsofhome,andwhenthatbusinesswasconductedunderapressureofdifficultieswhichtheythemselves,bornealongtoBradfordmarketinaswiftfirst-classcarriage,canhardlybelievetohavebeenpossible。
Forinstance,onewoollenmanufacturersaysthat,notfiveandtwentyyearsago,hehadtorisebetimestosetoffonawinter’s-
morninginordertobeatBradfordwiththegreatwaggon-loadofgoodsmanufacturedbyhisfather;thisloadwaspackedover-night,butinthemorningtherewasagreatgatheringaroundit,andflashingoflanterns,andexaminationofhorses’feet,beforetheponderouswaggongotunderway;andthensomeonehadtogogropinghereandthere,onhandsandknees,andalwayssoundingwithastaffdownthelong,steep,slipperybrow,tofindwherethehorsesmighttreadsafely,untiltheyreachedthecomparativeeasy-goingofthedeep-ruttedmainroad。Peoplewentonhorsebackovertheuplandmoors,followingthetracksofthepack-horsesthatcarriedtheparcels,baggage,orgoodsfromonetowntoanother,betweenwhichtheredidnothappentobeahighway。
Butinwinter,allsuchcommunicationwasimpossible,byreasonofthesnowwhichlaylongandlateonthebleakhighground。Ihaveknownpeoplewho,travellingbythemail-coachoverBlackstoneEdge,hadbeensnowedupforaweekortendaysatthelittleinnnearthesummit,andobligedtospendbothChristmasandNewYear’sDaythere,tillthestoreofprovisionslaidinfortheuseofthelandlordandhisfamilyfallingshortbeforetheinroadsoftheunexpectedvisitors,theyhadrecoursetotheturkeys,geese,andYorkshirepieswithwhichthecoachwasladen;andeventhesewerebeginningtofail,whenafortunatethawreleasedthemfromtheirprison。
Isolatedasthehillvillagesmaybe,theyareintheworld,comparedwiththelonelinessofthegreyancestralhousestobeseenhereandthereinthedensehollowsofthemoors。Thesedwellingsarenotlarge,yettheyaresolidandroomyenoughfortheaccommodationofthosewholiveinthem,andtowhomthesurroundingestatesbelong。ThelandhasoftenbeenheldbyonefamilysincethedaysoftheTudors;theownersare,infact,theremainsoftheoldyeomanry——smallsquires——whoarerapidlybecomingextinctasaclass,fromoneoftwocauses。Eitherthepossessorfallsintoidle,drinkinghabits,andsoisobligedeventuallytosellhisproperty:orhefinds,ifmoreshrewdandadventurous,thatthe"beck"runningdownthemountain-side,orthemineralsbeneathhisfeet,canbeturnedintoanewsourceofwealth;andleavingtheoldploddinglifeofalandownerwithsmallcapital,heturnsmanufacturer,ordigsforcoal,orquarriesforstone。
Stilltherearethoseremainingofthisclass——dwellersinthelonelyhousesfarawayintheuplanddistricts——evenatthepresentday,whosufficientlyindicatewhatstrangeeccentricity——
whatwildstrengthofwill——nay,evenwhatunnaturalpowerofcrimewasfosteredbyamodeoflivinginwhichamanseldommethisfellows,andwherepublicopinionwasonlyadistantandinarticulateechoofsomeclearervoicesoundingbehindthesweepinghorizon。
Asolitarylifecherishesmerefanciesuntiltheybecomemanias。
AndthepowerfulYorkshirecharacter,whichwasscarcelytamedintosubjectionbyallthecontactitmetwithin"busytownorcrowdedmart,"hasbeforenowbrokenoutintostrangewilfulnessintheremoterdistricts。Asingularaccountwasrecentlygivenmeofalandownerliving,itistrue,ontheLancashiresideofthehills,butofthesamebloodandnatureasthedwellersontheother,whowassupposedtobeinthereceiptofsevenoreighthundredayear,andwhosehouseboremarksofhandsomeantiquity,asifhisforefathershadbeenforalongtimepeopleofconsideration。Myinformantwasstruckwiththeappearanceoftheplace,andproposedtothecountrymanwhowasaccompanyinghim,togouptoitandtakeanearerinspection。Thereplywas,"Yo’dbetternot;he’dthreapyo’downth’loan。He’sletflyatsomefolk’slegs,andletshotlodgein’emaforenow,forgoingtooneartohishouse。"Andfinding,oncloserinquiry,thatsuchwasreallytheinhospitablecustomofthismoorlandsquire,thegentlemangaveuphispurpose。Ibelievethatthesavageyeomanisstillliving。
Anothersquire,ofmoredistinguishedfamilyandlargerproperty——
oneisthenceledtoimagineofbettereducation,butthatdoesnotalwaysfollow——diedathishouse,notmanymilesfromHaworth,onlyafewyearsago。Hisgreatamusementandoccupationhadbeencock-fighting。Whenhewasconfinedtohischamberwithwhatheknewwouldbehislastillness,hehadhiscocksbroughtupthere,andwatchedthebloodybattlefromhisbed。Ashismortaldiseaseincreased,anditbecameimpossibleforhimtoturnsoastofollowthecombat,hehadlooking-glassesarrangedinsuchamanner,aroundandabovehim,ashelay,thathecouldstillseethecocksfighting。Andinthismannerhedied。
Thesearemerelyinstancesofeccentricitycomparedtothetalesofpositiveviolenceandcrimethathaveoccurredintheseisolateddwellings,whichstilllingerinthememoriesoftheoldpeopleofthedistrict,andsomeofwhichweredoubtlessfamiliartotheauthorsof"WutheringHeights"and"TheTenantofWildfellHall。"
Theamusementsofthelowerclassescouldhardlybeexpectedtobemorehumanethanthoseofthewealthyandbettereducated。Thegentleman,whohaskindlyfurnishedmewithsomeoftheparticularsIhavegiven,remembersthebull-baitingsatRochdale,notthirtyyearsago。Thebullwasfastenedbyachainorropetoapostintheriver。Toincreasetheamountofwater,aswellastogivetheirworkpeopletheopportunityofsavagedelight,themasterswereaccustomedtostoptheirmillsonthedaywhenthesporttookplace。Thebullwouldsometimeswheelsuddenlyround,sothattheropebywhichhewasfastenedsweptthosewhohadbeencarelessenoughtocomewithinitsrangedownintothewater,andthegoodpeopleofRochdalehadtheexcitementofseeingoneortwooftheirneighboursdrowned,aswellasofwitnessingthebullbaited,andthedogstornandtossed。
ThepeopleofHaworthwerenotlessstrongandfullofcharacterthantheirneighboursoneithersideofthehills。Thevillageliesembeddedinthemoors,betweenthetwocounties,ontheoldroadbetweenKeighleyandColne。Aboutthemiddleofthelastcentury,itbecamefamousinthereligiousworldasthesceneoftheministrationsoftheRev。WilliamGrimshaw,curateofHaworthfortwentyyears。Beforethistime,itisprobablethatthecurateswereofthesameorderasoneMr。Nicholls,aYorkshireclergyman,inthedaysimmediatelysucceedingtheReformation,whowas"muchaddictedtodrinkingandcompany-keeping,"andusedtosaytohiscompanions,"YoumustnotheedmebutwhenIamgotthreefeetabovetheearth,"thatwas,intothepulpit。
Mr。Grimshaw’slifewaswrittenbyNewton,Cowper’sfriend;andfromitmaybegatheredsomecuriousparticularsofthemannerinwhicharoughpopulationwereswayedandgovernedbyamanofdeepconvictions,andstrongearnestnessofpurpose。Itseemsthathehadnotbeeninanywayremarkableforreligiouszeal,thoughhehadledamorallife,andbeenconscientiousinfulfillinghisparochialduties,untilacertainSundayinSeptember,1744,whentheservant,risingatfive,foundhermasteralreadyengagedinprayer;shestatedthat,afterremaininginhischamberforsometime,hewenttoengageinreligiousexercisesinthehouseofaparishioner,thenhomeagaintopray;thence,stillfasting,tothechurch,where,ashewasreadingthesecondlesson,hefelldown,and,onhispartialrecovery,hadtobeledfromthechurch。
Ashewentout,hespoketothecongregation,andtoldthemnottodisperse,ashehadsomethingtosaytothem,andwouldreturnpresently。Hewastakentotheclerk’shouse,andagainbecameinsensible。Hisservantrubbedhim,torestorethecirculation;
andwhenhewasbroughttohimself"heseemedinagreatrapture,"
andthefirstwordsheutteredwere,"Ihavehadagloriousvisionfromthethirdheaven。"Hedidnotsaywhathehadseen,butreturnedintothechurch,andbegantheserviceagain,attwointheafternoon,andwentonuntilseven。
Fromthistimehedevotedhimself,withthefervourofaWesley,andsomethingofthefanaticismofaWhitfield,tocallingoutareligiouslifeamonghisparishioners。Theyhadbeeninthehabitofplayingatfoot-ballonSunday,usingstonesforthispurpose;
andgivingandreceivingchallengesfromotherparishes。Therewerehorse-racesheldonthemoorsjustabovethevillage,whichwereperiodicalsourcesofdrunkennessandprofligacy。Scarcelyaweddingtookplacewithouttheroughamusementoffoot-races,wherethehalf-nakedrunnerswereascandaltoalldecentstrangers。Theoldcustomof"arvills,"orfuneralfeasts,ledtofrequentpitchedbattlesbetweenthedrunkenmourners。SuchcustomsweretheoutwardsignsofthekindofpeoplewithwhomMr。
Grimshawhadtodeal。But,byvariousmeans,someofthemostpracticalkind,hewroughtagreatchangeinhisparish。InhispreachinghewasoccasionallyassistedbyWesleyandWhitfield,andatsuchtimesthelittlechurchprovedmuchtoosmalltoholdthethrongthatpouredinfromdistantvillages,orlonelymoorlandhamlets;andfrequentlytheywereobligedtomeetintheopenair;indeed,therewasnotroomenoughinthechurchevenforthecommunicants。Mr。WhitfieldwasoncepreachinginHaworth,andmadeuseofsomesuchexpression,asthathehopedtherewasnoneedtosaymuchtothiscongregation,astheyhadsatundersopiousandgodlyaministerforsomanyyears;"whereuponMr。
Grimshawstoodupinhisplace,andsaidwithaloudvoice,’Oh,sir!forGod’ssakedonotspeakso。Iprayyoudonotflatterthem。Ifearthegreaterpartofthemaregoingtohellwiththeireyesopen。’"Butiftheyweresobound,itwasnotforwantofexertiononMr。Grimshaw’sparttopreventthem。Heusedtopreachtwentyorthirtytimesaweekinprivatehouses。Ifheperceivedanyoneinattentivetohisprayers,hewouldstopandrebuketheoffender,andnotgoontillhesaweveryoneontheirknees。HewasveryearnestinenforcingthestrictobservanceofSunday;andwouldnotevenallowhisparishionerstowalkinthefieldsbetweenservices。HesometimesgaveoutaverylongPsalmtraditionsaysthe119th,andwhileitwasbeingsung,heleftthereading-desk,andtakingahorsewhipwentintothepublic-
houses,andfloggedtheloiterersintochurch。Theywereswiftwhocouldescapethelashoftheparsonbysneakingoutthebackway。Hehadstronghealthandanactivebody,androdefarandwideoverthehills,"awakening"thosewhohadpreviouslyhadnosenseofreligion。Tosavetime,andbenochargetothefamiliesatwhosehousesheheldhisprayer-meetings,hecarriedhisprovisionswithhim;allthefoodhetookinthedayonsuchoccasionsconsistingsimplyofapieceofbreadandbutter,ordrybreadandarawonion。
Thehorse-raceswerejustlyobjectionabletoMr。Grimshaw;theyattractednumbersofprofligatepeopletoHaworth,andbroughtamatchtothecombustiblematerialsoftheplace,onlytooreadytoblazeoutintowickedness。Thestoryis,thathetriedallmeansofpersuasion,andevenintimidation,tohavetheracesdiscontinued,butinvain。Atlength,indespair,heprayedwithsuchfervourofearnestnessthattheraincamedownintorrents,anddelugedtheground,sothattherewasnofootingformanorbeast,evenifthemultitudehadbeenwillingtostandsuchafloodletdownfromabove。AndsoHaworthraceswerestopped,andhaveneverbeenresumedtothisday。Evennowthememoryofthisgoodmanisheldinreverence,andhisfaithfulministrationsandrealvirtuesareoneoftheboastsoftheparish。
Butafterhistime,Ifeartherewasafallingbackintothewildroughheathenways,fromwhichhehadpulledthemup,asitwere,bythepassionateforceofhisindividualcharacter。HehadbuiltachapelfortheWesleyanMethodists,andnotverylongaftertheBaptistsestablishedthemselvesinaplaceofworship。Indeed,asDr。Whitakersays,thepeopleofthisdistrictare"strongreligionists;"only,fiftyyearsago,theirreligiondidnotworkdownintotheirlives。Halfthatlengthoftimeback,thecodeofmoralsseemedtobeformeduponthatoftheirNorseancestors。
Revengewashandeddownfromfathertosonasanhereditaryduty;
andagreatcapabilityfordrinkingwithouttheheadbeingaffectedwasconsideredasoneofthemanlyvirtues。Thegamesoffoot-ballonSundays,withthechallengestotheneighbouringparishes,wereresumed,bringinginaninfluxofriotousstrangerstofillthepublic-houses,andmakethemoresober-mindedinhabitantslongforgoodMr。Grimshaw’sstoutarm,andreadyhorsewhip。Theoldcustomof"arvills"wasasprevalentasever。
Thesexton,standingatthefootoftheopengrave,announcedthatthe"arvill"wouldbeheldattheBlackBull,orwhateverpublic-
housemightbefixeduponbythefriendsofthedead;andthitherthemournersandtheiracquaintancesrepaired。Theoriginofthecustomhadbeenthenecessityoffurnishingsomerefreshmentforthosewhocamefromadistance,topaythelastmarkofrespecttoafriend。InthelifeofOliverHeywoodtherearetwoquotations,whichshowwhatsortoffoodwasprovidedfor"arvills"inquietNonconformistconnectionsintheseventeenthcentury;thefirstfromThoresbytellsof"coldpossets,stewedprunes,cake,andcheese,"asbeingthearvillafterOliverHeywood’sfuneral。Thesecondgives,asrathershabby,accordingtothenotionofthetimes1673,"nothingbutabitofcake,draughtofwine,pieceofrosemary,andpairofgloves。"
ButthearvillsatHaworthwereoftenfarmorejovialdoings。
Amongthepoor,themournerswereonlyexpectedtoprovideakindofspicedrollforeachperson;andtheexpenseoftheliquors——
rum,orale,oramixtureofbothcalled"dog’snose"——wasgenerallydefrayedbyeachguestplacingsomemoneyonaplate,setinthemiddleofthetable。Richerpeoplewouldorderadinnerfortheirfriends。AtthefuneralofMr。CharnockthenextsuccessorbutonetoMr。Grimshawintheincumbency,aboveeightypeoplewerebidtothearvill,andthepriceofthefeastwas4s。6d。perhead,allofwhichwasdefrayedbythefriendsofthedeceased。Asfew"shirkedtheirliquor,"therewereveryfrequently"up-and-downfights"beforethecloseoftheday;
sometimeswiththehorridadditionsof"pawsing"and"gouging,"
andbiting。
AlthoughIhavedweltontheexceptionaltraitsinthecharacteristicsofthesestalwartWest-Ridingers,suchastheywereinthefirstquarterofthiscentury,ifnotafewyearslater,Ihavelittledoubtthatintheevery-daylifeofthepeoplesoindependent,wilful,andfullofgrimhumour,therewouldbemuchfoundevenatpresentthatwouldshockthoseaccustomedonlytothelocalmannersofthesouth;and,inreturn,Isuspecttheshrewd,sagacious,energeticYorkshiremanwouldholdsuch"foreigners"innosmallcontempt。
Ihavesaid,itismostprobablethatwhereHaworthChurchnowstands,therewasonceanancient"field-kirk,"ororatory。Itoccupiedthethirdorlowestclassofecclesiasticalstructures,accordingtotheSaxonlaw,andhadnorightofsepulture,oradministrationofsacraments。Itwassocalledbecauseitwasbuiltwithoutenclosure,andopentotheadjoiningfieldsormoors。Thefounder,accordingtothelawsofEdgar,wasbound,withoutsubtractingfromhistithes,tomaintaintheministeringpriestoutoftheremainingninepartsofhisincome。AftertheReformation,therightofchoosingtheirclergyman,atanyofthosechapelsofeasewhichhadformerlybeenfield-kirks,wasvestedinthefreeholdersandtrustees,subjecttotheapprovalofthevicaroftheparish。Butowingtosomenegligence,thisrighthasbeenlosttothefreeholdersandtrusteesatHaworth,eversincethedaysofArchbishopSharp;andthepowerofchoosingaministerhaslapsedintothehandsoftheVicarofBradford。Sorunstheaccount,accordingtooneauthority。
Mr。Brontesays,——"ThislivinghasforitspatronstheVicarofBradfordandcertaintrustees。MypredecessortookthelivingwiththeconsentoftheVicarofBradford,butinoppositiontothetrustees;inconsequenceofwhichhewassoopposedthat,afteronlythreeweeks’possession,hewascompelledtoresign。"
AYorkshiregentleman,whohaskindlysentmesomeadditionalinformationonthissubjectsincethesecondeditionofmyworkwaspublished,write,thus:-
"ThesolerightofpresentationtotheincumbencyofHaworthisvestedintheVicarofBradford。Heonlycanpresent。Thefunds,however,fromwhichtheclergyman’sstipendmainlyproceeds,arevestedinthehandsoftrustees,whohavethepowertowithholdthem,ifanomineeissentofwhomtheydisapprove。OnthedeceaseofMr。Charnock,theVicarfirsttenderedtheprefermenttoMr。Bronte,andhewentovertohisexpectedcure。Hewastoldthattowardshimselftheyhadnopersonalobjection;butasanomineeoftheVicarhewouldnotbereceived。Hethereforeretired,withthedeclarationthatifhecouldnotcomewiththeapprovaloftheparish,hisministrycouldnotbeuseful。UponthistheattemptwasmadetointroduceMr。Redhead。
"WhenMr。Redheadwasrepelled,afreshdifficultyarose。Someonemustfirstmovetowardsasettlement,butaspiritbeingevokedwhichcouldnotbeallayed,actionbecameperplexing。Thematterhadtobereferredtosomeindependentarbitrator,andmyfatherwasthegentlemantowhomeachpartyturneditseye。A
meetingwasconvened,andthebusinesssettledbytheVicar’sconcedingthechoicetothetrustees,andtheacceptanceoftheVicar’spresentation。ThatchoiceforthwithfellonMr。Bronte,whosepromptnessandprudencehadwontheirhearts。"
InconversingonthecharacteroftheinhabitantsoftheWestRidingwithDr。Scoresby,whohadbeenforsometimeVicarofBradford,healludedtocertainriotoustransactionswhichhadtakenplaceatHaworthonthepresentationofthelivingtoMr。
Redhead,andsaidthattherehadbeensomuchintheparticularsindicativeofthecharacterofthepeople,thatheadvisedmetoinquireintothem。Ihaveaccordinglydoneso,and,fromthelipsofsomeofthesurvivorsamongtheactorsandspectators,IhavelearntthemeanstakentoejectthenomineeoftheVicar。
ThepreviousincumbenthadbeentheMr。CharnockwhomIhavementionedasnextbutoneinsuccessiontoMr。Grimshaw。Hehadalongillnesswhichrenderedhimunabletodischargehisdutieswithoutassistance,andMr。Redheadgavehimoccasionalhelp,tothegreatsatisfactionoftheparishioners,andwashighlyrespectedbythemduringMr。Charnock’slifetime。Butthecasewasentirelyalteredwhen,atMr。Charnock’sdeathin1819,theyconceivedthatthetrusteeshadbeenunjustlydeprivedoftheirrightsbytheVicarofBradford,whoappointedMr。Redheadasperpetualcurate。
ThefirstSundayheofficiated,HaworthChurchwasfilledeventotheaisles;mostofthepeoplewearingthewoodenclogsofthedistrict。ButwhileMr。Redheadwasreadingthesecondlesson,thewholecongregation,asbyoneimpulse,begantoleavethechurch,makingallthenoisetheycouldwithclatteringandclumpingofclogs,till,atlength,Mr。Redheadandtheclerkweretheonlytwolefttocontinuetheservice。Thiswasbadenough,butthenextSundaytheproceedingswerefarworse。Then,asbefore,thechurchwaswellfilled,buttheaisleswereleftclear;notacreature,notanobstaclewasintheway。Thereasonforthiswasmadeevidentaboutthesametimeinthereadingoftheserviceasthedisturbanceshadbegunthepreviousweek。A
manrodeintothechurchuponanass,withhisfaceturnedtowardsthetail,andasmanyoldhatspiledonhisheadashecouldpossiblycarry。Hebeganurginghisbeastroundtheaisles,andthescreams,andcries,andlaughterofthecongregationentirelydrownedallsoundofMr。Redhead’svoice,and,Ibelieve,hewasobligedtodesist。
Hithertotheyhadnotproceededtoanythinglikepersonalviolence;butonthethirdSundaytheymusthavebeengreatlyirritatedatseeingMr。Redhead,determinedtobravetheirwill,rideupthevillagestreet,accompaniedbyseveralgentlemenfromBradford。TheyputuptheirhorsesattheBlackBull——thelittleinncloseuponthechurchyard,fortheconvenienceofarvillsaswellasforotherpurposes——andwentintochurch。Onthisthepeoplefollowed,withachimney-sweeper,whomtheyhademployedtocleanthechimneysofsomeout-buildingsbelongingtothechurchthatverymorning,andafterwardpliedwithdrinktillhewasinastateofsolemnintoxication。Theyplacedhimrightbeforethereading-desk,wherehisblackenedfacenoddedadrunken,stupidassenttoallthatMr。Redheadsaid。Atlast,eitherpromptedbysomemischief-maker,orfromsometipsyimpulse,heclamberedupthepulpitstairs,andattemptedtoembraceMr。Redhead。Thentheprofanefungrewfastandfurious。Someofthemoreriotous,pushedthesoot-coveredchimney-sweeperagainstMr。Redhead,ashetriedtoescape。Theythrewbothhimandhistormentordownonthegroundinthechurchyardwherethesoot-baghadbeenemptied,and,though,atlast,Mr。RedheadescapedintotheBlackBull,thedoorsofwhichwereimmediatelybarred,thepeopleragedwithout,threateningtostonehimandhisfriends。Oneofmyinformantsisanoldman,whowasthelandlordoftheinnatthetime,andhestandstoitthatsuchwasthetemperoftheirritatedmob,thatMr。Redheadwasinrealdangerofhislife。Thisman,however,plannedanescapeforhisunpopularinmates。TheBlackBullisnearthetopofthelong,steepHaworthstreet,andatthebottom,closebythebridge,ontheroadtoKeighley,isaturnpike。
Givingdirectionstohishuntedgueststostealoutatthebackdoorthroughwhich,probably,manyane’er-do-weelhasescapedfromgoodMr。Grimshaw’shorsewhip,thelandlordandsomeofthestable-boysrodethehorsesbelongingtothepartyfromBradfordbackwardsandforwardsbeforehisfrontdoor,amongthefiercely-
expectantcrowd。Throughsomeopeningbetweenthehouses,thoseonthehorsessawMr。Redheadandhisfriendscreepingalongbehindthestreet;andthen,strikingspurs,theydashedquicklydowntotheturnpike;theobnoxiousclergymanandhisfriendsmountedinhaste,andhadspedsomedistancebeforethepeoplefoundoutthattheirpreyhadescaped,andcamerunningtotheclosedturnpikegate。
ThiswasMr。Redhead’slastappearanceatHaworthformanyyears。
Longafterwards,hecametopreach,andinhissermontoalargeandattentivecongregationhegood-humouredlyremindedthemofthecircumstanceswhichIhavedescribed。Theygavehimaheartywelcome,fortheyowedhimnogrudge;althoughbeforetheyhadbeenreadyenoughtostonehim,inordertomaintainwhattheyconsideredtobetheirrights。
Theforegoingaccount,whichIheardfromtwoofthesurvivors,inthepresenceofafriendwhocanvouchfortheaccuracyofmyrepetition,hastoacertaindegreebeenconfirmedbyaletterfromtheYorkshiregentleman,whosewordsIhavealreadyquoted。
"Iamnotsurprisedatyourdifficultyinauthenticatingmatter-
of-fact。IfindthisinrecallingwhatIhaveheard,andtheauthorityonwhichIhaveheardanything。Astothedonkeytale,Ibelieveyouareright。Mr。RedheadandDr。Ramsbotham,hisson-
in-law,arenostrangerstome。Eachofthemhasanicheinmyaffections。
"Ihaveasked,thisday,twopersonswholivedinHaworthatthetimetowhichyouallude,thesonanddaughterofanactingtrustee,andeachofthembetweensixtyandseventyyearsofage,andtheyassuremethatthedonkeywasintroduced。Oneofthemsaysitwasmountedbyahalf-wittedman,seatedwithhisfacetowardsthetailofthebeast,andhavingseveralhatspiledonhishead。Neitherofmyinformantswas,however,presentattheseedifyingservices。IbelievethatnomovementwasmadeinthechurchoneitherSunday,untilthewholeoftheauthorisedreading-servicewasgonethrough,andIamsurethatnothingwasmoreremotefromthemorerespectablepartythananypersonalantagonismtowardMr。Redhead。Hewasoneofthemostamiableandworthyofmen,amantomyselfendearedbymanytiesandobligations。Ineverheardbeforeyourbookthatthesweepascendedthepulpitsteps。Hewaspresent,however,intheclericalhabilimentsofhisorder……ImayalsoaddthatamongthemanywhowerepresentatthosesadSundayorgiesthemajoritywerenon-residents,andcamefromthosemoorlandfastnessesontheoutskirtsoftheparishlocallydesignatedas’ovverth’steyres,’
onestagemoreremotethanHaworthfrommoderncivilization。
"ToaninstanceortwomoreoftherusticityoftheinhabitantsofthechapelryofHaworth,Imayintroduceyou。
"AHaworthcarriercalledattheofficeofafriendofminetodeliveraparcelonacoldwinter’sday,andstoodwiththedooropen。’Robin!shutthedoor!’saidtherecipient。’Haveyounodoorsinyourcountry?’’Yoi,’respondedRobin,’wehev,butwenivversteik’em。’Ihavefrequentlyremarkedthenumberofdoorsopeneveninwinter。
"Whenwelldirected,theindomitableandindependentenergiesofthenativesofthispartofthecountryareinvaluable;dangerouswhenperverted。Ishallneverforgetthefierceactionsandutterancesofonesufferingfromdeliriumtremens。Whetherinitswrath,disdain,oritsdismay,thecountenancewasinfernal。I
calledonceuponatimeonamostrespectableyeoman,andIwas,inlanguageearnestandhomely,pressedtoacceptthehospitalityofthehouse。Iconsented。Thewordtomewas,’Nah,Maister,yahmunstopanhevsumte-ah,yahmun,eah,yahmun。’A
bountifultablewassoonspread;atallevents,timesoonwentwhileIscaledthehillstosee’t’maireatworthrettyyearowd,an’t’feilatworfewer。’Onsittingdowntothetable,avenerablewomanofficiated,andafterfillingthecups,shethusaddressedme:’Nah,Maister,yahmunloawzeth’taible’loosethetable。Themastersaid,’Shahmeeansyahmunseyt’greyce。’I
tookthehint,andutteredtheblessing。
"Ispokewithanagedandtriedwomanatonetime,who,afterrecordinghermercies,stated,amongothers,herpowersofspeech,byasserting’ThanktheLord,ahnivverworameilly-meouthedwumman。’Ifeelparticularlyatfaultinattemptingtheorthographyofthedialect,butmustexcusemyselfbytellingyouthatIoncesawaletterinwhichthewordIhavejustnowusedexcusewaswritten’ecksqueaize!’
"Therearesomethings,however,whichrathertendtosoftentheideaoftherudenessofHaworth。Noruraldistricthasbeenmoremarkedlytheabodeofmusicaltasteandacquirement,andthisataperiodwhenitwasdifficulttofindthemtothesameextentapartfromtownsinadvanceoftheirtimes。IhavegonetoHaworthandfoundanorchestratomeetme,filledwithlocalperformers,vocalandinstrumental,towhomthebestworksofHandel,Haydn,Mozart,Marcello,&c。&c。,werefamiliarashouseholdwords。Byknowledge,taste,andvoice,theyweremarkedlyseparatefromordinaryvillagechoirs,andhavebeenputinextensiverequisitionforthesoloandchorusofmanyanimposingfestival。
Onemanstillsurvives,who,forfiftyyears,hashadoneofthefinesttenorvoicesIeverheard,andwithitarefinedandcultivatedtaste。Tohimandtoothersmanyinducementshavebeenofferedtomigrate;buttheloom,theassociation,themountainairhavehadcharmsenowtosecuretheircontinuanceathome。I
lovetherecollectionoftheirperformance;thatrecollectionextendsovermorethansixtyyears。Theattachments,theantipathiesandthehospitalitiesofthedistrictareardent,hearty,andhomely。Cordialityineachistheprominentcharacteristic。Asapeople,thesemountaineershaveeverbeenaccessibletogentlenessandtruth,sofarasIhaveknownthem;
butexcitesuspicionorresentment,andtheygiveemphaticandnotimpotentresistance。Compulsiontheydefy。
"IaccompaniedMr。HeaponhisfirstvisittoHaworthafterhisaccessiontothevicarageofBradford。ItwasonEasterday,either1816or1817。Hispredecessor,thevenerableJohnCrosse,knownasthe’blindvicar,’hadbeeninattentivetothevicarialclaims。Asearchinginvestigationhadtobemadeandenforced,andasitproceededstoutandsturdyutteranceswerenotlackingonthepartoftheparishioners。Toaspectator,thoughrude,theywereamusing,andsignificant,foretellingwhatmightbeexpected,andwhatwasafterwardsrealised,ontheadventofanewincumbent,iftheydeemedhimanintruder。
"Fromtheirpeculiarparochialpositionandcircumstances,theinhabitantsofthechapelryhavebeenprompt,earnest,andperseveringintheiroppositiontochurch-rates。Althoughtenmilesfromthemother-church,theywerecalledupontodefrayalargeproportionofthisobnoxioustax,——Ibelieveonefifth。
"Besidesthis,theyhadtomaintaintheirownedifice,&c。,&c。
Theyresisted,therefore,withenergy,thatwhichtheydeemedtobeoppressionandinjustice。ByscoreswouldtheywendtheirwayfromthehillstoattendavestrymeetingatBradford,andinsuchservicefailednottoshowlessoftheSUAVITERINMODOthantheFORTITERINRE。Happilysuchoccasionfortheiractionhasnotoccurredformanyyears。
"Theuseofpatronymicshasbeencommoninthislocality。InquireforamanbyhisChristiannameandsurname,andyoumayhavesomedifficultyinfindinghim:ask,however,for’Georgeo’Ned’s,’
or’Dicko’Bob’s,’or’Tomo’Jack’s,’asthecasemaybe,andyourdifficultyisatanend。Inmanyinstancesthepersonisdesignatedbyhisresidence。InmyearlyyearsIhadoccasiontoinquireforJonathanWhitaker,whoownedaconsiderablefarminthetownship。Iwassenthitherandthither,untilitoccurredtometoaskfor’Jonathano’th’Gate。’Mydifficultieswerethenatanend。Suchcircumstancesariseoutofthesettledcharacterandisolationofthenatives。
"ThosewhohavewitnessedaHaworthweddingwhenthepartieswereabovetherankoflabourers,willnoteasilyforgetthescene。A
levywasmadeonthehorsesoftheneighbourhood,andamerrycavalcadeofmountedmenandwomen,singleordouble,traversedthewaytoBradfordchurch。Theinnandchurchappearedtobeinnaturalconnection,andasthelaboursoftheTemperanceSocietyhadthentobegin,theinterestsofsobrietywerenotalwaysconsulted。Onremountingtheirsteedstheycommencedwitharace,andnotunfrequentlyaninebriateorunskilfulhorsemanorwomanwasputHORSDECOMBAT。Aracealsowasfrequentattheend。oftheseweddingexpeditions,fromthebridgetothetoll-baratHaworth。Therace-courseyouwillknowtobeanythingbutlevel。"
Intothemidstofthislawless,yetnotunkindlypopulation,Mr。
Brontebroughthiswifeandsixlittlechildren,inFebruary,1820。Therearethoseyetalivewhoremembersevenheavily-ladencartslumberingslowlyupthelongstonestreet,bearingthe"newparson’s"householdgoodstohisfutureabode。
Onewondershowthebleakaspectofhernewhome——thelow,oblong,stoneparsonage,highup,yetwithastillhigherback-groundofsweepingmoors——struckonthegentle,delicatewife,whosehealtheventhenwasfailing。
CHAPTERIII
TheRev。PatrickBronteisanativeoftheCountyDowninIreland。
HisfatherHughBronte,wasleftanorphanatanearlyage。Hecamefromthesouthtothenorthoftheisland,andsettledintheparishofAhaderg,nearLoughbrickland。Therewassomefamilytraditionthat,humbleasHughBronte’scircumstanceswere,hewasthedescendantofanancientfamily。Butaboutthisneitherhenorhisdescendantshavecaredtoinquire。Hemadeanearlymarriage,andrearedandeducatedtenchildrenontheproceedsofthefewacresoflandwhichhefarmed。Thislargefamilywereremarkableforgreatphysicalstrength,andmuchpersonalbeauty。
Eveninhisoldage,Mr。Bronteisastriking-lookingman,abovethecommonheight,withanobly-shapedhead,anderectcarriage。
Inhisyouthhemusthavebeenunusuallyhandsome。
HewasbornonPatrickmasdayMarch17,1777,andearlygavetokensofextraordinaryquicknessandintelligence。Hehadalsohisfullshareofambition;andofhisstrongsenseandforethoughtthereisaproofinthefact,that,knowingthathisfathercouldaffordhimnopecuniaryaid,andthathemustdependuponhisownexertions,heopenedapublicschoolattheearlyageofsixteen;andthismodeoflivinghecontinuedtofollowforfiveorsixyears。HethenbecameatutorinthefamilyoftheRev。Mr。Tighe,rectorofDrumgoolandparish。ThenceheproceededtoSt。John’sCollege,Cambridge,wherehewasenteredinJuly,1802,beingatthetimefive-and-twentyyearsofage。Afternearlyfouryears’residence,heobtainedhisB。A。degree,andwasordainedtoacuracyinEssex,whenceheremovedintoYorkshire。
Thecourseoflifeofwhichthisistheoutline,showsapowerfulandremarkablecharacter,originatingandpursuingapurposeinaresoluteandindependentmanner。Hereisayouth——aboyofsixteen——separatinghimselffromhisfamily,anddeterminingtomaintainhimself;andthat,notinthehereditarymannerbyagriculturalpursuits,butbythelabourofhisbrain。
Isuppose,fromwhatIhaveheard,thatMr。Tighebecamestronglyinterestedinhischildren’stutor,andmayhaveaidedhim,notonlyinthedirectionofhisstudies,butinthesuggestionofanEnglishuniversityeducation,andinadviceastothemodeinwhichheshouldobtainentrancethere。Mr。BrontehasnownotraceofhisIrishoriginremaininginhisspeech;henevercouldhaveshownhisCelticdescentinthestraightGreeklinesandlongovalofhisface;butatfive-and-twenty,freshfromtheonlylifehehadeverknown,topresenthimselfatthegatesofSt。John’sprovednolittledeterminationofwill,andscornofridicule。
WhileatCambridge,hebecameoneofacorpsofvolunteers,whowerethenbeingcalledoutalloverthecountrytoresisttheapprehendedinvasionbytheFrench。Ihaveheardhimallude,inlateyears,toLordPalmerstonasonewhohadoftenbeenassociatedwithhimtheninthemimicmilitarydutieswhichtheyhadtoperform。
WetakehimupnowsettledasacurateatHartshead,inYorkshire——
farremovedfromhisbirth-placeandallhisIrishconnections;
withwhom,indeed,hecaredlittletokeepupanyintercourse,andwhomhenever,Ibelieve,re-visitedafterbecomingastudentatCambridge。
Hartsheadisaverysmallvillage,lyingtotheeastofHuddersfieldandHalifax;and,fromitshighsituation——onamound,asitwere,surroundedbyacircularbasin——commandingamagnificentview。Mr。Bronteresidedhereforfiveyears;and,whiletheincumbentofHartshead,hewooedandmarriedMariaBranwell。
ShewasthethirddaughterofMr。ThomasBranwell,merchant,ofPenzance。Hermother’smaidennamewasCarne:and,bothonfather’sandmother’sside,theBranwellfamilyweresufficientlywelldescendedtoenablethemtomixinthebestsocietythatPenzancethenafforded。Mr。andMrs。Branwellwouldbeliving——
theirfamilyoffourdaughtersandoneson,stillchildren——duringtheexistenceofthatprimitivestateofsocietywhichiswelldescribedbyDr。Davyinthelifeofhisbrother。
"Inthesametown,whenthepopulationwasabout2,000persons,therewasonlyonecarpet,thefloorsofroomsweresprinkledwithsea-sand,andtherewasnotasinglesilverfork。
"Atthattime,whenourcolonialpossessionswereverylimited,ourarmyandnavyonasmallscale,andtherewascomparativelylittledemandforintellect,theyoungersonsofgentlemenwereoftenofnecessitybroughtuptosometradeormechanicalart,towhichnodiscredit,orlossofcaste,asitwere,wasattached。
Theeldestson,ifnotallowedtoremainanidlecountrysquire,wassenttoOxfordorCambridge,preparatorytohisengaginginoneofthethreeliberalprofessionsofdivinity,law,orphysic;
thesecondsonwasperhapsapprenticedtoasurgeonorapothecary,orasolicitor;thethirdtoapewtererorwatchmaker;thefourthtoapackerormercer,andsoon,weretheremoretobeprovidedfor。
"Aftertheirapprenticeshipswerefinished,theyoungmenalmostinvariablywenttoLondontoperfectthemselvesintheirrespectivetradeorart:andontheirreturnintothecountry,whensettledinbusiness,theywerenotexcludedfromwhatwouldnowbeconsideredgenteelsociety。Visitingthenwasconducteddifferentlyfromwhatitisatpresent。Dinner-partieswerealmostunknown,exceptingattheannualfeast-time。Christmas,too,wasthenaseasonofpeculiarindulgenceandconviviality,andaroundofentertainmentswasgiven,consistingofteaandsupper。Exceptingatthesetwoperiods,visitingwasalmostentirelyconfinedtotea-parties,whichassembledatthreeo’clock,brokeupatnine,andtheamusementoftheeveningwascommonlysomeroundgameatcards,asPopeJoan,orCommerce。Thelowerclasswasthenextremelyignorant,andallclasseswereverysuperstitious;eventhebeliefinwitchesmaintaineditsground,andtherewasanalmostunboundedcredulityrespectingthesupernaturalandmonstrous。TherewasscarcelyaparishintheMount’sBaythatwaswithoutahauntedhouse,oraspottowhichsomestoryofsupernaturalhorrorwasnotattached。EvenwhenI
wasaboy,IrememberahouseinthebeststreetofPenzancewhichwasuninhabitedbecauseitwasbelievedtobehaunted,andwhichyoungpeoplewalkedbyatnightataquickenedpace,andwithabeatingheart。Amongstthemiddleandhigherclassestherewaslittletasteforliterature,andstilllessforscience,andtheirpursuitswererarelyofadignifiedorintellectualkind。