IFthereadersofthisvolumewillbesokindastotaketheircredentialsforthedifferentplaceswhicharethesubjectofitsauthor'sreminiscences，fromtheAuthorhimself，perhapstheymayvisitthem，infancy，themoreagreeably，andwithabetterunderstandingofwhattheyaretoexpect。
　　ManybookshavebeenwrittenuponItaly，affordingmanymeansofstudyingthehistoryofthatinterestingcountry，andtheinnumerableassociationsentwinedaboutit。Imakebutlittlereferencetothatstockofinformation；notatallregardingitasanecessaryconsequenceofmyhavinghadrecoursetothestorehouseformyownbenefit，thatIshouldreproduceitseasilyaccessiblecontentsbeforetheeyesofmyreaders。
　　Neitherwilltherebefound，inthesepages，anygraveexaminationintothegovernmentormisgovernmentofanyportionofthecountry。
　　Novisitorofthatbeautifullandcanfailtohaveastrongconvictiononthesubject；butasIchosewhenresidingthere，aForeigner，toabstainfromthediscussionofanysuchquestionswithanyorderofItalians，soIwouldrathernotenterontheinquirynow。Duringmytwelvemonths'occupationofahouseatGenoa，Ineverfoundthatauthoritiesconstitutionallyjealousweredistrustfulofme；andIshouldbesorrytogivethemoccasiontoregrettheirfreecourtesy，eithertomyselforanyofmycountrymen。
　　Thereis，probably，notafamousPictureorStatueinallItaly，butcouldbeeasilyburiedunderamountainofprintedpaperdevotedtodissertationsonit。Idonot，therefore，thoughanearnestadmirerofPaintingandSculpture，expatiateatanylengthonfamousPicturesandStatues。
　　ThisBookisaseriesoffaintreflections-mereshadowsinthewater-ofplacestowhichtheimaginationsofmostpeopleareattractedinagreaterorlessdegree，onwhichminehaddweltforyears，andwhichhavesomeinterestforall。Thegreaterpartofthedescriptionswerewrittenonthespot，andsenthome，fromtimetotime，inprivateletters。Idonotmentionthecircumstanceasanexcuseforanydefectstheymaypresent，foritwouldbenone；
　　butasaguaranteetotheReaderthattheywereatleastpennedinthefulnessofthesubject，andwiththeliveliestimpressionsofnoveltyandfreshness。
　　Iftheyhaveeverafancifulandidleair，perhapsthereaderwillsupposethemwrittenintheshadeofaSunnyDay，inthemidstoftheobjectsofwhichtheytreat，andwilllikethemnonetheworseforhavingsuchinfluencesofthecountryuponthem。
　　IhopeIamnotlikelytobemisunderstoodbyProfessorsoftheRomanCatholicfaith，onaccountofanythingcontainedinthesepages。Ihavedonemybest，inoneofmyformerproductions，todojusticetothem；andItrust，inthis，theywilldojusticetome。
　　WhenImentionanyexhibitionthatimpressedmeasabsurdordisagreeable，Idonotseektoconnectit，orrecogniseitasnecessarilyconnectedwith，anyessentialsoftheircreed。WhenI
　　treatoftheceremoniesoftheHolyWeek，Imerelytreatoftheireffect，anddonotchallengethegoodandlearnedDr。Wiseman'sinterpretationoftheirmeaning。WhenIhintadislikeofnunneriesforyounggirlswhoabjuretheworldbeforetheyhaveeverprovedorknownit；ordoubttheEXOFFICIOsanctityofallPriestsandFriars；IdonomorethanmanyconscientiousCatholicsbothabroadandathome。
　　IhavelikenedthesePicturestoshadowsinthewater，andwouldfainhopethatIhave，nowhere，stirredthewatersoroughly，astomartheshadows。Icouldneverdesiretobeonbettertermswithallmyfriendsthannow，whendistantmountainsrise，oncemore，inmypath。ForIneednothesitatetoavow，that，bentoncorrectingabriefmistakeImade，notlongago，indisturbingtheoldrelationsbetweenmyselfandmyreaders，anddepartingforamomentfrommyoldpursuits，Iamabouttoresumethem，joyfully，inSwitzerland；whereduringanotheryearofabsence，IcanatonceworkoutthethemesIhavenowinmymind，withoutinterruption:
　　andwhileIkeepmyEnglishaudiencewithinspeakingdistance，extendmyknowledgeofanoblecountry，inexpressiblyattractivetome。
　　Thisbookismadeasaccessibleaspossible，becauseitwouldbeagreatpleasuretomeifIcouldhope，throughitsmeans，tocompareimpressionswithsomeamongthemultitudeswhowillhereaftervisitthescenesdescribedwithinterestanddelight。
　　AndIhaveonlynow，inpassportwise，tosketchmyreader'sportrait，whichIhopemaybethussupposititiouslytracedforeithersex:
　　ComplexionFair。
　　EyesVerycheerful。
　　NoseNotsupercilious。
　　MouthSmiling。
　　VisageBeaming。
　　GeneralExpressionExtremelyagreeable。
　　CHAPTERI-GOINGTHROUGHFRANCE
　　ONafineSundaymorningintheMidsummertimeandweatherofeighteenhundredandforty-four，itwas，mygoodfriend，when-
　　don'tbealarmed；notwhentwotravellersmighthavebeenobservedslowlymakingtheirwayoverthatpicturesqueandbrokengroundbywhichthefirstchapterofaMiddleAgednovelisusuallyattained-butwhenanEnglishtravelling-carriageofconsiderableproportions，freshfromtheshadyhallsofthePantechniconnearBelgraveSquare，London，wasobservedbyaverysmallFrenchsoldier；forIsawhimlookatittoissuefromthegateoftheHotelMeuriceintheRueRivoliatParis。
　　IamnomoreboundtoexplainwhytheEnglishfamilytravellingbythiscarriage，insideandout，shouldbestartingforItalyonaSundaymorning，ofallgooddaysintheweek，thanIamtoassignareasonforallthelittlemeninFrancebeingsoldiers，andallthebigmenpostilions；whichistheinvariablerule。But，theyhadsomesortofreasonforwhattheydid，Ihavenodoubt；andtheirreasonforbeingthereatall，was，asyouknow，thattheyweregoingtoliveinfairGenoaforayear；andthattheheadofthefamilypurposed，inthatspaceoftime，tostrollabout，whereverhisrestlesshumourcarriedhim。
　　AnditwouldhavebeensmallcomforttometohaveexplainedtothepopulationofParisgenerally，thatIwasthatHeadandChief；andnottheradiantembodimentofgoodhumourwhosatbesidemeinthepersonofaFrenchCourier-bestofservantsandmostbeamingofmen！Truthtosay，helookedagreatdealmorepatriarchalthanI，who，intheshadowofhisportlypresence，dwindleddowntonoaccountatall。
　　Therewas，ofcourse，verylittleintheaspectofParis-aswerattlednearthedismalMorgueandoverthePontNeuf-toreproachusforourSundaytravelling。Thewine-shopseverysecondhouse
　　weredrivingaroaringtrade；awningswerespreading，andchairsandtablesarranging，outsidethecafes，preparatorytotheeatingofices，anddrinkingofcoolliquids，laterintheday；shoe-
　　blackswerebusyonthebridges；shopswereopen；cartsandwaggonsclatteredtoandfro；thenarrow，up-hill，funnel-likestreetsacrosstheRiver，weresomanydenseperspectivesofcrowdandbustle，parti-colourednight-caps，tobacco-pipes，blouses，largeboots，andshaggyheadsofhair；nothingatthathourdenotedadayofrest，unlessitweretheappearance，hereandthere，ofafamilypleasure-party，crammedintoabulkyoldlumberingcab；orofsomecontemplativeholiday-makerinthefreestandeasiestdishabille，leaningoutofalowgarretwindow，watchingthedryingofhisnewlypolishedshoesonthelittleparapetoutsideifagentleman，ortheairingofherstockingsinthesunifalady，withcalmanticipation。
　　Onceclearofthenever-to-be-forgotten-or-forgivenpavementwhichsurroundsParis，thefirstthreedaysoftravellingtowardsMarseillesarequietandmonotonousenough。ToSens。ToAvallon。
　　ToChalons。Asketchofoneday'sproceedingsisasketchofallthree；andhereitis。
　　Wehavefourhorses，andonepostilion，whohasaverylongwhip，anddriveshisteam，somethingliketheCourierofSaintPetersburghinthecircleatAstley'sorFranconi's:onlyhesitshisownhorseinsteadofstandingonhim。Theimmensejack-bootswornbythesepostilions，aresometimesacenturyortwoold；andaresoludicrouslydisproportionatetothewearer'sfoot，thatthespur，whichisputwherehisownheelcomes，isgenerallyhalfwayupthelegoftheboots。Themanoftencomesoutofthestable-
　　yard，withhiswhipinhishandandhisshoeson，andbringsout，inbothhands，onebootatatime，whichheplantsonthegroundbythesideofhishorse，withgreatgravity，untileverythingisready。Whenitis-andohHeaven！thenoisetheymakeaboutit！-
　　hegetsintotheboots，shoesandall，orishoistedintothembyacoupleoffriends；adjuststheropeharness，embossedbythelaboursofinnumerablepigeonsinthestables；makesallthehorseskickandplunge；crackshiswhiplikeamadman；shouts'Enroute-
　　Hi！'andawaywego。Heissuretohaveacontestwithhishorsebeforewehavegoneveryfar；andthenhecallshimaThief，andaBrigand，andaPig，andwhatnot；andbeatshimabouttheheadasifheweremadeofwood。
　　Thereislittlemorethanonevarietyintheappearanceofthecountry，forthefirsttwodays。Fromadrearyplain，toaninterminableavenue，andfromaninterminableavenuetoadrearyplainagain。Plentyofvinesthereareintheopenfields，butofashortlowkind，andnottrainedinfestoons，butaboutstraightsticks。Beggarsinnumerablethereare，everywhere；butanextraordinarilyscantypopulation，andfewerchildrenthanIeverencountered。Idon'tbelievewesawahundredchildrenbetweenParisandChalons。Queeroldtowns，draw-bridgedandwalled:withoddlittletowersattheangles，likegrotesquefaces，asifthewallhadputamaskon，andwerestaringdownintothemoat；otherstrangelittletowers，ingardensandfields，anddownlanes，andinfarm-yards:allalone，andalwaysround，withapeakedroof，andneverusedforanypurposeatall；ruinousbuildingsofallsorts；sometimesanhoteldeville，sometimesaguard-house，sometimesadwelling-house，sometimesachateauwitharankgarden，prolificindandelion，andwatchedoverbyextinguisher-toppedturrets，andblink-eyedlittlecasements；arethestandardobjects，repeatedoverandoveragain。Sometimeswepassavillageinn，withacrumblingwallbelongingtoit，andaperfecttownofout-
　　houses；andpaintedoverthegateway，'StablingforSixtyHorses；'
　　asindeedtheremightbestablingforsixtyscore，werethereanyhorsestobestabledthere，oranybodyrestingthere，oranythingstirringabouttheplacebutadanglingbush，indicativeofthewineinside:whichfluttersidlyinthewind，inlazykeepingwitheverythingelse，andcertainlyisneverinagreenoldage，thoughalwayssooldastobedroppingtopieces。Andalldaylong，strangelittlenarrowwaggons，instringsofsixoreight，bringingcheesefromSwitzerland，andfrequentlyincharge，thewholeline，ofoneman，orevenboy-andheveryoftenasleepintheforemostcart-comejinglingpast:thehorsesdrowsilyringingthebellsupontheirharness，andlookingasiftheythoughtnodoubttheydotheirgreatbluewoollyfurniture，ofimmenseweightandthickness，withapairofgrotesquehornsgrowingoutofthecollar，verymuchtoowarmfortheMidsummerweather。
　　Then，thereistheDiligence，twiceorthricea-day；withthedustyoutsidesinbluefrocks，likebutchers；andtheinsidesinwhitenightcaps；anditscabrioletheadontheroof，noddingandshaking，likeanidiot'shead；anditsYoung-Francepassengersstaringoutofwindow，withbeardsdowntotheirwaists，andbluespectaclesawfullyshadingtheirwarlikeeyes，andverybigsticksclenchedintheirNationalgrasp。AlsotheMallePoste，withonlyacoupleofpassengers，tearingalongatarealgooddare-devilpace，andoutofsightinnotime。SteadyoldCurescomejoltingpast，nowandthen，insuchramshackle，rusty，musty，clatteringcoachesasnoEnglishmanwouldbelievein；andbonywomendawdleaboutinsolitaryplaces，holdingcowsbyropeswhiletheyfeed，ordiggingandhoeingordoingfield-workofamorelaboriouskind，orrepresentingrealshepherdesseswiththeirflocks-toobtainanadequateideaofwhichpursuitanditsfollowers，inanycountry，itisonlynecessarytotakeanypastoralpoem，orpicture，andimaginetoyourselfwhateverismostexquisitelyandwidelyunlikethedescriptionsthereincontained。
　　Youhavebeentravellingalong，stupidlyenough，asyougenerallydointhelaststageoftheday；andtheninety-sixbellsuponthehorses-twenty-fourapiece-havebeenringingsleepilyinyourearsforhalfanhourorso；andithasbecomeaveryjog-trot，monotonous，tiresomesortofbusiness；andyouhavebeenthinkingdeeplyaboutthedinneryouwillhaveatthenextstage；when，downattheendofthelongavenueoftreesthroughwhichyouaretravelling，thefirstindicationofatownappears，intheshapeofsomestragglingcottages:andthecarriagebeginstorattleandrolloverahorriblyunevenpavement。Asiftheequipagewereagreatfirework，andthemeresightofasmokingcottagechimneyhadlightedit，instantlyitbeginstocrackandsplutter，asiftheverydevilwereinit。Crack，crack，crack，crack。Crack-crack-
　　crack。Crick-crack。Crick-crack。Helo！Hola！Vite！Voleur！
　　Brigand！Hihihi！Enr-r-r-r-r-route！Whip，wheels，driver，stones，beggars，children，crack，crack，crack；helo！hola！charitepourl'amourdeDieu！crick-crack-crick-crack；crick，crick，crick；
　　bump，jolt，crack，bump，crick-crack；roundthecorner，upthenarrowstreet，downthepavedhillontheotherside；inthegutter；bump，bump；jolt，jog，crick，crick，crick；crack，crack，crack；intotheshop-windowsontheleft-handsideofthestreet，preliminarytoasweepingturnintothewoodenarchwayontheright；rumble，rumble，rumble；clatter，clatter，clatter；crick，crick，crick；andhereweareintheyardoftheHoteldel'Ecud'Or；usedup，goneout，smoking，spent，exhausted；butsometimesmakingafalsestartunexpectedly，withnothingcomingofit-likeafireworktothelast！
　　ThelandladyoftheHoteldel'Ecud'Orishere；andthelandlordoftheHoteldel'Ecud'Orishere；andthefemmedechambreoftheHoteldel'Ecud'Orishere；andagentlemaninaglazedcap，witharedbeardlikeabosomfriend，whoisstayingattheHoteldel'Ecud'Or，ishere；andMonsieurleCureiswalkingupanddowninacorneroftheyardbyhimself，withashovelhatuponhishead，andablackgownonhisback，andabookinonehand，andanumbrellaintheother；andeverybody，exceptMonsieurleCure，isopen-mouthedandopen-eyed，fortheopeningofthecarriage-door。
　　ThelandlordoftheHoteldel'Ecud'Or，dotestothatextentupontheCourier，thathecanhardlywaitforhiscomingdownfromthebox，butembraceshisverylegsandboot-heelsashedescends。'MyCourier！MybraveCourier！Myfriend！Mybrother！'Thelandladyloveshim，thefemmedechambreblesseshim，thegarconworshipshim。TheCourierasksifhisletterhasbeenreceived?Ithas，ithas。Aretheroomsprepared?Theyare，theyare。ThebestroomsformynobleCourier。TheroomsofstateformygallantCourier；
　　thewholehouseisattheserviceofmybestoffriends！Hekeepshishanduponthecarriage-door，andaskssomeotherquestiontoenhancetheexpectation。Hecarriesagreenleathernpurseoutsidehiscoat，suspendedbyabelt。Theidlerslookatit；onetouchesit。Itisfulloffive-francpieces。Murmursofadmirationareheardamongtheboys。ThelandlordfallsupontheCourier'sneck，andfoldshimtohisbreast。Heissomuchfatterthanhewas，hesays！Helookssorosyandsowell！
　　Thedoorisopened。Breathlessexpectation。Theladyofthefamilygetsout。Ahsweetlady！Beautifullady！Thesisteroftheladyofthefamilygetsout。GreatHeaven，Ma'amselleischarming！Firstlittleboygetsout。Ah，whatabeautifullittleboy！Firstlittlegirlgetsout。Oh，butthisisanenchantingchild！Secondlittlegirlgetsout。Thelandlady，yieldingtothefinestimpulseofourcommonnature，catchesherupinherarms！
　　Secondlittleboygetsout。Oh，thesweetboy！Oh，thetenderlittlefamily！Thebabyishandedout。Angelicbaby！Thebabyhastoppedeverything。Alltheraptureisexpendedonthebaby！
　　Thenthetwonursestumbleout；andtheenthusiasmswellingintomadness，thewholefamilyaresweptup-stairsasonacloud；whiletheidlerspressaboutthecarriage，andlookintoit，andwalkroundit，andtouchit。Foritissomethingtotouchacarriagethathasheldsomanypeople。Itisalegacytoleaveone'schildren。
　　Theroomsareonthefirstfloor，exceptthenurseryforthenight，whichisagreatramblingchamber，withfourorfivebedsinit:
　　throughadarkpassage，uptwosteps，downfour，pastapump，acrossabalcony，andnextdoortothestable。Theothersleepingapartmentsarelargeandlofty；eachwithtwosmallbedsteads，tastefullyhung，likethewindows，withredandwhitedrapery。Thesitting-roomisfamous。Dinnerisalreadylaidinitforthree；
　　andthenapkinsarefoldedincocked-hatfashion。Thefloorsareofredtile。Therearenocarpets，andnotmuchfurnituretospeakof；butthereisabundanceoflooking-glass，andtherearelargevasesunderglassshades，filledwithartificialflowers；andthereareplentyofclocks。Thewholepartyareinmotion。ThebraveCourier，inparticular，iseverywhere:lookingafterthebeds，havingwinepoureddownhisthroatbyhisdearbrotherthelandlord，andpickingupgreencucumbers-alwayscucumbers；Heavenknowswherehegetsthem-withwhichhewalksabout，oneineachhand，liketruncheons。
　　Dinnerisannounced。Thereisverythinsoup；thereareverylargeloaves-oneapiece；afish；fourdishesafterwards；somepoultryafterwards；adessertafterwards；andnolackofwine。Thereisnotmuchinthedishes；buttheyareverygood，andalwaysreadyinstantly。Whenitisnearlydark，thebraveCourier，havingeatenthetwocucumbers，slicedupinthecontentsofaprettylargedecanterofoil，andanotherofvinegar，emergesfromhisretreatbelow，andproposesavisittotheCathedral，whosemassivetowerfrownsdownuponthecourt-yardoftheinn。Offwego；andverysolemnandgranditis，inthedimlight:sodimatlast，thatthepolite，old，lanthorn-jawedSacristanhasafeeblelittlebitofcandleinhishand，togropeamongthetombswith-andlooksamongthegrimcolumns，verylikealostghostwhoissearchingforhisown。
　　Underneaththebalcony，whenwereturn，theinferiorservantsoftheinnaresuppingintheopenair，atagreattable；thedish，astewofmeatandvegetables，smokinghot，andservedintheironcauldronitwasboiledin。Theyhaveapitcherofthinwine，andareverymerry；merrierthanthegentlemanwiththeredbeard，whoisplayingbilliardsinthelightroomontheleftoftheyard，whereshadows，withcuesintheirhands，andcigarsintheirmouths，crossandrecrossthewindow，constantly。StillthethinCurewalksupanddownalone，withhisbookandumbrella。Andtherehewalks，andtherethebilliard-ballsrattle，longafterwearefastasleep。
　　Weareastiratsixnextmorning。Itisadelightfulday，shamingyesterday'smuduponthecarriage，ifanythingcouldshameacarriage，inalandwherecarriagesarenevercleaned。Everybodyisbrisk；andaswefinishbreakfast，thehorsescomejinglingintotheyardfromthePost-house。Everythingtakenoutofthecarriageisputbackagain。ThebraveCourierannouncesthatallisready，afterwalkingintoeveryroom，andlookingallroundit，tobecertainthatnothingisleftbehind。Everybodygetsin。EverybodyconnectedwiththeHoteldel'Ecud'Orisagainenchanted。ThebraveCourierrunsintothehouseforaparcelcontainingcoldfowl，slicedham，bread，andbiscuits，forlunch；handsitintothecoach；andrunsbackagain。
　　Whathashegotinhishandnow?Morecucumbers?No。Alongstripofpaper。It'sthebill。
　　ThebraveCourierhastwobeltson，thismorning:onesupportingthepurse:another，amightygoodsortofleathernbottle，filledtothethroatwiththebestlightBordeauxwineinthehouse。Heneverpaysthebilltillthisbottleisfull。Thenhedisputesit。
　　Hedisputesitnow，violently。Heisstillthelandlord'sbrother，butbyanotherfatherormother。Heisnotsonearlyrelatedtohimashewaslastnight。Thelandlordscratcheshishead。ThebraveCourierpointstocertainfiguresinthebill，andintimatesthatiftheyremainthere，theHoteldel'Ecud'Oristhenceforthandforeveranhoteldel'Ecudecuivre。Thelandlordgoesintoalittlecounting-house。ThebraveCourierfollows，forcesthebillandapenintohishand，andtalksmorerapidlythanever。Thelandlordtakesthepen。TheCouriersmiles。Thelandlordmakesanalteration。TheCouriercutsajoke。Thelandlordisaffectionate，butnotweaklyso。Hebearsitlikeaman。Heshakeshandswithhisbravebrother，buthedon'thughim。Still，heloveshisbrother；forheknowsthathewillbereturningthatway，oneofthesefinedays，withanotherfamily，andheforeseesthathisheartwillyearntowardshimagain。ThebraveCouriertraversesallroundthecarriageonce，looksatthedrag，inspectsthewheels，jumpsup，givestheword，andawaywego！
　　Itismarketmorning。Themarketisheldinthelittlesquareoutsideinfrontofthecathedral。Itiscrowdedwithmenandwomen，inblue，inred，ingreen，inwhite；withcanvassedstalls；
　　andflutteringmerchandise。Thecountrypeoplearegroupedabout，withtheircleanbasketsbeforethem。Here，thelace-sellers；
　　there，thebutterandegg-sellers；there，thefruit-sellers；there，theshoe-makers。Thewholeplacelooksasifitwerethestageofsomegreattheatre，andthecurtainhadjustrunup，forapicturesqueballet。Andthereisthecathedraltoboot:scene-
　　like:allgrim，andswarthy，andmouldering，andcold:justsplashingthepavementinoneplacewithfaintpurpledrops，asthemorningsun，enteringbyalittlewindowontheeasternside，strugglesthroughsomestainedglasspanes，onthewestern。
　　Infiveminuteswehavepassedtheironcross，withalittleraggedkneeling-placeofturfbeforeit，intheoutskirtsofthetown；andareagainupontheroad。
　　CHAPTERII-LYONS，THERHONE，ANDTHEGOBLINOFAVIGNON
　　CHALONSisafairresting-place，inrightofitsgoodinnonthebankoftheriver，andthelittlesteamboats，gaywithgreenandredpaint，thatcomeandgouponit:whichmakeupapleasantandrefreshingscene，afterthedustyroads。But，unlessyouwouldliketodwellonanenormousplain，withjaggedrowsofirregularpoplarsonit，thatlookinthedistancelikesomanycombswithbrokenteeth:andunlessyouwouldliketopassyourlifewithoutthepossibilityofgoingup-hill，orgoingupanythingbutstairs:
　　youwouldhardlyapproveofChalonsasaplaceofresidence。
　　Youwouldprobablylikeitbetter，however，thanLyons:whichyoumayreach，ifyouwill，inoneofthebefore-mentionedsteamboats，ineighthours。
　　WhatacityLyonsis！Talkaboutpeoplefeeling，atcertainunluckytimes，asiftheyhadtumbledfromtheclouds！Hereisawholetownthatistumbled，anyhow，outofthesky；havingbeenfirstcaughtup，likeotherstonesthattumbledownfromthatregion，outoffensandbarrenplaces，dismaltobehold！Thetwogreatstreetsthroughwhichthetwogreatriversdash，andallthelittlestreetswhosenameisLegion，werescorching，blistering，andsweltering。Thehouses，highandvast，dirtytoexcess，rottenasoldcheeses，andasthicklypeopled。Allupthehillsthathemthecityin，thesehousesswarm；andthemitesinsidewerelollingoutofthewindows，anddryingtheirraggedclothesonpoles，andcrawlinginandoutatthedoors，andcomingouttopantandgaspuponthepavement，andcreepinginandoutamonghugepilesandbalesoffusty，musty，stiflinggoods；andliving，orrathernotdyingtilltheirtimeshouldcome，inanexhaustedreceiver。Everymanufacturingtown，meltedintoone，wouldhardlyconveyanimpressionofLyonsasitpresenteditselftome:foralltheundrained，unscavengeredqualitiesofaforeigntown，seemedgrafted，there，uponthenativemiseriesofamanufacturingone；
　　anditbearssuchfruitasIwouldgosomemilesoutofmywaytoavoidencounteringagain。
　　Inthecooloftheevening:orratherinthefadedheatoftheday:wewenttoseetheCathedral，wherediversoldwomen，andafewdogs，wereengagedincontemplation。Therewasnodifference，inpointofcleanliness，betweenitsstonepavementandthatofthestreets；andtherewasawaxsaint，inalittleboxlikeaberthaboardship，withaglassfronttoit，whomMadameTussaudwouldhavenothingtosayto，onanyterms，andwhichevenWestminsterAbbeymightbeashamedof。Ifyouwouldknowallaboutthearchitectureofthischurch，oranyother，itsdates，dimensions，endowments，andhistory，isitnotwritteninMr。Murray'sGuide-
　　Book，andmayyounotreaditthere，withthankstohim，asIdid！
　　Forthisreason，IshouldabstainfrommentioningthecuriousclockinLyonsCathedral，ifitwerenotforasmallmistakeImade，inconnectionwiththatpieceofmechanism。Thekeeperofthechurchwasveryanxiousitshouldbeshown；partlyforthehonouroftheestablishmentandthetown；andpartly，perhaps，becauseofhisderivingapercentagefromtheadditionalconsideration。Howeverthatmaybe，itwassetinmotion，andthereuponahostoflittledoorsflewopen，andinnumerablelittlefiguresstaggeredoutofthem，andjerkedthemselvesbackagain，withthatspecialunsteadinessofpurpose，andhitchinginthegait，whichusuallyattachestofiguresthataremovedbyclock-work。Meanwhile，theSacristanstoodexplainingthesewonders，andpointingthemout，severally，withawand。TherewasacentrepuppetoftheVirginMary；andclosetoher，asmallpigeon-hole，outofwhichanotherandaveryill-lookingpuppetmadeoneofthemostsuddenplungesI
　　eversawaccomplished:instantlyfloppingbackagainatsightofher，andbanginghislittledoorviolentlyafterhim。TakingthistobeemblematicofthevictoryoverSinandDeath，andnotatallunwillingtoshowthatIperfectlyunderstoodthesubject，inanticipationoftheshowman，Irashlysaid，'Aha！TheEvilSpirit。
　　Tobesure。Heisverysoondisposedof。''Pardon，Monsieur，'
　　saidtheSacristan，withapolitemotionofhishandtowardsthelittledoor，asifintroducingsomebody-'TheAngelGabriel！'
　　Soonafterdaybreaknextmorning，weweresteamingdowntheArrowyRhone，attherateoftwentymilesanhour，inaverydirtyvesselfullofmerchandise，andwithonlythreeorfourotherpassengersforourcompanions:amongwhom，themostremarkablewasasilly，old，meek-faced，garlic-eating，immeasurablypoliteChevalier，withadirtyscrapofredribbonhangingathisbutton-hole，asifhehadtiedittheretoremindhimselfofsomething；asTomNoddy，inthefarce，tiesknotsinhispocket-handkerchief。
　　Forthelasttwodays，wehadseengreatsullenhills，thefirstindicationsoftheAlps，loweringinthedistance。Now，wewererushingonbesidethem:sometimesclosebesidethem:sometimeswithaninterveningslope，coveredwithvineyards。Villagesandsmalltownshanginginmid-air，withgreatwoodsofolivesseenthroughthelightopentowersoftheirchurches，andcloudsmovingslowlyon，uponthesteepacclivitybehindthem；ruinedcastlesperchedoneveryeminence；andscatteredhousesinthecleftsandgulliesofthehills；madeitverybeautiful。Thegreatheightofthese，too，makingthebuildingslooksotiny，thattheyhadallthecharmofelegantmodels；theirexcessivewhiteness，ascontrastedwiththebrownrocks，orthesombre，deep，dull，heavygreenoftheolive-tree；andthepunysize，andlittleslowwalkoftheLilliputianmenandwomenonthebank；madeacharmingpicture。
　　Therewereferriesoutofnumber，too；bridges；thefamousPontd'Esprit，withIdon'tknowhowmanyarches；townswherememorablewinesaremade；Vallence，whereNapoleonstudied；andthenobleriver，bringingateverywindingturn，newbeautiesintoview。
　　Therelaybeforeus，thatsameafternoon，thebrokenbridgeofAvignon，andallthecitybakinginthesun；yetwithanunder-
　　done-pie-crust，battlementedwall，thatneverwillbebrown，thoughitbakeforcenturies。
　　Thegrapeswerehanginginclustersinthestreets，andthebrilliantOleanderwasinfullbloomeverywhere。Thestreetsareoldandverynarrow，buttolerablyclean，andshadedbyawningsstretchedfromhousetohouse。Brightstuffsandhandkerchiefs，curiosities，ancientframesofcarvedwood，oldchairs，ghostlytables，saints，virgins，angels，andstaringdaubsofportraits，beingexposedforsalebeneath，itwasveryquaintandlively。Allthiswasmuchsetoff，too，bytheglimpsesonecaught，througharustygatestandingajar，ofquietsleepycourt-yards，havingstatelyoldhouseswithin，assilentastombs。ItwasallverylikeoneofthedescriptionsintheArabianNights。Thethreeone-
　　eyedCalendersmighthaveknockedatanyoneofthosedoorstillthestreetrangagain，andtheporterwhopersistedinaskingquestions-themanwhohadthedeliciouspurchasesputintohisbasketinthemorning-mighthaveopeneditquitenaturally。
　　Afterbreakfastnextmorning，wesalliedforthtoseethelions。
　　Suchadeliciousbreezewasblowingin，fromthenorth，asmadethewalkdelightful:thoughthepavement-stones，andstonesofthewallsandhouses，werefartoohottohaveahandlaidonthemcomfortably。
　　Wewent，firstofall，uparockyheight，tothecathedral:whereMasswasperformingtoanauditoryverylikethatofLyons，namely，severaloldwomen，ababy，andaveryself-possesseddog，whohadmarkedoutforhimselfalittlecourseorplatformforexercise，beginningatthealtar-railsandendingatthedoor，upanddownwhichconstitutionalwalkhetrotted，duringtheservice，asmethodicallyandcalmly，asanyoldgentlemanoutofdoors。
　　Itisabareoldchurch，andthepaintingsintheroofaresadlydefacedbytimeanddampweather；butthesunwasshiningin，splendidly，throughtheredcurtainsofthewindows，andglitteringonthealtarfurniture；anditlookedasbrightandcheerfulasneedbe。
　　Goingapart，inthischurch，toseesomepaintingwhichwasbeingexecutedinfrescobyaFrenchartistandhispupil，IwasledtoobservemorecloselythanImightotherwisehavedone，agreatnumberofvotiveofferingswithwhichthewallsofthedifferentchapelswereprofuselyhung。Iwillnotsaydecorated，fortheywereveryroughlyandcomicallygotup；mostlikelybypoorsign-
　　painters，whoekeouttheirlivinginthatway。Theywerealllittlepictures:eachrepresentingsomesicknessorcalamityfromwhichthepersonplacingitthere，hadescaped，throughtheinterpositionofhisorherpatronsaint，oroftheMadonna；andI
　　mayrefertothemasgoodspecimensoftheclassgenerally。TheyareabundantinItaly。
　　Inagrotesquesquarenessofoutline，andimpossibilityofperspective，theyarenotunlikethewoodcutsinoldbooks；buttheywereoil-paintings，andtheartist，likethepainterofthePrimrosefamily，hadnotbeensparingofhiscolours。Inone，aladywashavingatoeamputated-anoperationwhichasaintlypersonagehadsailedintotheroom，uponacouch，tosuperintend。
　　Inanother，aladywaslyinginbed，tuckedupverytightandprim，andstaringwithmuchcomposureatatripod，withaslop-basinonit；theusualformofwashing-stand，andtheonlypieceoffurniture，besidesthebedstead，inherchamber。Onewouldneverhavesupposedhertobelabouringunderanycomplaint，beyondtheinconvenienceofbeingmiraculouslywideawake，ifthepainterhadnothitupontheideaofputtingallherfamilyontheirkneesinonecorner，withtheirlegsstickingoutbehindthemonthefloor，likeboot-trees。Abovewhom，theVirgin，onakindofbluedivan，promisedtorestorethepatient。Inanothercase，aladywasintheveryactofbeingrunover，immediatelyoutsidethecitywalls，byasortofpiano-fortevan。ButtheMadonnawasthereagain。
　　Whetherthesupernaturalappearancehadstartledthehorseabaygriffin，orwhetheritwasinvisibletohim，Idon'tknow；buthewasgallopingaway，dingdong，withoutthesmallestreverenceorcompunction。Oneverypicture'Exvoto'waspaintedinyellowcapitalsinthesky。
　　ThoughvotiveofferingswerenotunknowninPaganTemples，andareevidentlyamongthemanycompromisesmadebetweenthefalsereligionandthetrue，whenthetruewasinitsinfancy，Icouldwishthatalltheothercompromiseswereasharmless。GratitudeandDevotionareChristianqualities；andagrateful，humble，Christianspiritmaydictatetheobservance。
　　HardbythecathedralstandstheancientPalaceofthePopes，ofwhichoneportionisnowacommonjail，andanotheranoisybarrack:whilegloomysuitesofstateapartments，shutupanddeserted，mocktheirownoldstateandglory，liketheembalmedbodiesofkings。Butweneitherwentthere，toseestaterooms，norsoldiers'quarters，noracommonjail，thoughwedroppedsomemoneyintoaprisoners'boxoutside，whilsttheprisoners，themselves，lookedthroughtheironbars，highup，andwatcheduseagerly。WewenttoseetheruinsofthedreadfulroomsinwhichtheInquisitionusedtosit。
　　Alittle，old，swarthywoman，withapairofflashingblackeyes，-
　　proofthattheworldhadn'tconjureddownthedevilwithinher，thoughithadhadbetweensixtyandseventyyearstodoitin，-
　　cameoutoftheBarrackCabaret，ofwhichshewasthekeeper，withsomelargekeysinherhands，andmarshalledusthewaythatweshouldgo。Howshetoldus，ontheway，thatshewasaGovernmentOfficerCONCIERGEDUPALAISAAPOSTOLIQUE，andhadbeen，forI
　　don'tknowhowmanyyears；andhowshehadshownthesedungeonstoprinces；andhowshewasthebestofdungeondemonstrators；andhowshehadresidedinthepalacefromaninfant，-hadbeenbornthere，ifIrecollectright，-Ineedn'trelate。Butsuchafierce，little，rapid，sparkling，energeticshe-devilIneverbeheld。Shewasalightandflaming，allthetime。Heractionwasviolentintheextreme。Sheneverspoke，withoutstoppingexpresslyforthepurpose。Shestampedherfeet，clutchedusbythearms，flungherselfintoattitudes，hammeredagainstwallswithherkeys，formereemphasis:nowwhisperedasiftheInquisitionweretherestill:nowshriekedasifshewereontherackherself；
　　andhadamysterious，hag-likewaywithherforefinger，whenapproachingtheremainsofsomenewhorror-lookingbackandwalkingstealthily，andmakinghorriblegrimaces-thatmightalonehavequalifiedhertowalkupanddownasickman'scounterpane，totheexclusionofallotherfigures，throughawholefever。
　　Passingthroughthecourt-yard，amonggroupsofidlesoldiers，weturnedoffbyagate，whichthisShe-Goblinunlockedforouradmission，andlockedagainbehindus:andenteredanarrowcourt，renderednarrowerbyfallenstonesandheapsofrubbish；partofitchokingupthemouthofaruinedsubterraneanpassage，thatoncecommunicatedorissaidtohavedonesowithanothercastleontheoppositebankoftheriver。Closetothiscourt-yardisadungeon-westoodwithinit，inanotherminute-inthedismaltowerDESOUBLIETTES，whereRienziwasimprisoned，fastenedbyanironchaintotheverywallthatstandstherenow，butshutoutfromtheskywhichnowlooksdownintoit。AfewstepsbroughtustotheCachots，inwhichtheprisonersoftheInquisitionwereconfinedforforty-eighthoursaftertheircapture，withoutfoodordrink，thattheirconstancymightbeshaken，evenbeforetheywereconfrontedwiththeirgloomyjudges。Thedayhasnotgotinthereyet。Theyarestillsmallcells，shutinbyfourunyielding，close，hardwalls；stillprofoundlydark；stillmassivelydooredandfastened，asofold。
　　Goblin，lookingbackasIhavedescribed，wentsoftlyon，intoavaultedchamber，nowusedasastore-room:oncethechapeloftheHolyOffice。Theplacewherethetribunalsat，wasplain。Theplatformmighthavebeenremovedbutyesterday。ConceivetheparableoftheGoodSamaritanhavingbeenpaintedonthewallofoneoftheseInquisitionchambers！Butitwas，andmaybetracedthereyet。
　　Highupinthejealouswall，arenicheswherethefalteringrepliesoftheaccusedwereheardandnoteddown。Manyofthemhadbeenbroughtoutoftheverycellwehadjustlookedinto，soawfully；
　　alongthesamestonepassage。Wehadtroddenintheirveryfootsteps。
　　Iamgazingroundme，withthehorrorthattheplaceinspires，whenGoblinclutchesmebythewrist，andlays，notherskinnyfinger，butthehandleofakey，uponherlip。Sheinvitesme，withajerk，tofollowher。Idoso。Sheleadsmeoutintoaroomadjoining-aruggedroom，withafunnel-shaped，contractingroof，openatthetop，tothebrightday。Iaskherwhatitis。Shefoldsherarms，leershideously，andstares。Iaskagain。Sheglancesround，toseethatallthelittlecompanyarethere；sitsdownuponamoundofstones；throwsupherarms，andyellsout，likeafiend，'LaSalledelaQuestion！'
　　TheChamberofTorture！Andtheroofwasmadeofthatshapetostiflethevictim'scries！OhGoblin，Goblin，letusthinkofthisawhile，insilence。Peace，Goblin！Sitwithyourshortarmscrossedonyourshortlegs，uponthatheapofstones，foronlyfiveminutes，andthenflameoutagain。
　　Minutes！SecondsarenotmarkeduponthePalaceclock，when，withhereyesflashingfire，Goblinisup，inthemiddleofthechamber，describing，withhersunburntarms，awheelofheavyblows。Thusitranround！criesGoblin。Mash，mash，mash！Anendlessroutineofheavyhammers。Mash，mash，mash！uponthesufferer'slimbs。
　　Seethestonetrough！saysGoblin。Forthewatertorture！Gurgle，swill，bloat，burst，fortheRedeemer'shonour！Suckthebloodyrag，deepdownintoyourunbelievingbody，Heretic，ateverybreathyoudraw！Andwhentheexecutionerplucksitout，reekingwiththesmallermysteriesofGod'sownImage，knowusforHischosenservants，truebelieversintheSermonontheMount，electdisciplesofHimwhoneverdidamiraclebuttoheal:whoneverstruckamanwithpalsy，blindness，deafness，dumbness，madness，anyoneafflictionofmankind；andneverstretchedHisblessedhandout，buttogivereliefandease！
　　See！criesGoblin。Therethefurnacewas。Theretheymadetheironsred-hot。Thoseholessupportedthesharpstake，onwhichthetorturedpersonshungpoised:danglingwiththeirwholeweightfromtheroof。'But；'andGoblinwhispersthis；'Monsieurhasheardofthistower?Yes?LetMonsieurlookdown，then！'
　　Acoldair，ladenwithanearthysmell，fallsuponthefaceofMonsieur；forshehasopened，whilespeaking，atrap-doorinthewall。Monsieurlooksin。Downwardtothebottom，upwardtothetop，ofasteep，dark，loftytower:verydismal，verydark，verycold。TheExecutioneroftheInquisition，saysGoblin，edginginherheadtolookdownalso，flungthosewhowerepastallfurthertorturing，downhere。'Butlook！doesMonsieurseetheblackstainsonthewall?'Aglance，overhisshoulder，atGoblin'skeeneye，showsMonsieur-andwouldwithouttheaidofthedirectingkey-wheretheyare。'Whatarethey?''Blood！'
　　InOctober，1791，whentheRevolutionwasatitsheighthere，sixtypersons:menandwomen'andpriests，'saysGoblin，'priests':
　　weremurdered，andhurled，thedyingandthedead，intothisdreadfulpit，whereaquantityofquick-limewastumbleddownupontheirbodies。Thoseghastlytokensofthemassacreweresoonnomore；butwhileonestoneofthestrongbuildinginwhichthedeedwasdone，remainsuponanother，theretheywilllieinthememoriesofmen，asplaintoseeasthesplashingoftheirblooduponthewallisnow。
　　WasitaportionofthegreatschemeofRetribution，thatthecrueldeedshouldbecommittedinthisplace！Thatapartoftheatrocitiesandmonstrousinstitutions，whichhadbeen，forscoresofyears，atwork，tochangemen'snature，shouldinitslastservice，temptthemwiththereadymeansofgratifyingtheirfuriousandbeastlyrage！Shouldenablethemtoshowthemselves，intheheightoftheirfrenzy，noworsethanagreat，solemn，legalestablishment，intheheightofitspower！Noworse！Muchbetter。
　　TheyusedtheToweroftheForgotten，inthenameofLiberty-
　　theirliberty；anearth-borncreature，nursedintheblackmudoftheBastilemoatsanddungeons，andnecessarilybetrayingmanyevidencesofitsunwholesomebringing-up-buttheInquisitionuseditinthenameofHeaven。
　　Goblin'sfingerislifted；andshestealsoutagain，intotheChapeloftheHolyOffice。Shestopsatacertainpartoftheflooring。Hergreateffectisathand。Shewaitsfortherest。
　　ShedartsatthebraveCourier，whoisexplainingsomething；hitshimasoundingraponthehatwiththelargestkey；andbidshimbesilent。Sheassemblesusall，roundalittletrap-doorinthefloor，asroundagrave。
　　'Voila！'shedartsdownatthering，andflingsthedooropenwithacrash，inhergoblinenergy，thoughitisnolightweight。
　　'Voilalesoubliettes！Voilalesoubliettes！Subterranean！
　　Frightful！Black！Terrible！Deadly！Lesoubliettesdel'Inquisition！'
　　Mybloodrancold，asIlookedfromGoblin，downintothevaults，wheretheseforgottencreatures，withrecollectionsoftheworldoutside:ofwives，friends，children，brothers:starvedtodeath，andmadethestonesringwiththeirunavailinggroans。But，thethrillIfeltonseeingtheaccursedwallbelow，decayedandbrokenthrough，andthesunshininginthroughitsgapingwounds，waslikeasenseofvictoryandtriumph。Ifeltexaltedwiththeprouddelightoflivinginthesedegeneratetimes，toseeit。AsifI
　　weretheheroofsomehighachievement！Thelightinthedolefulvaultswastypicalofthelightthathasstreamedin，onallpersecutioninGod'sname，butwhichisnotyetatitsnoon！Itcannotlookmorelovelytoablindmannewlyrestoredtosight，thantoatravellerwhoseesit，calmlyandmajestically，treadingdownthedarknessofthatInfernalWell。
　　CHAPTERIII-AVIGNONTOGENOA
　　GOBLIN，havingshownLESOUBLIETTES，feltthathergreatCOUPwasstruck。Sheletthedoorfallwithacrash，andstooduponitwithherarmsa-kimbo，sniffingprodigiously。
　　Whenwelefttheplace，Iaccompaniedherintoherhouse，undertheoutergatewayofthefortress，tobuyalittlehistoryofthebuilding。Hercabaret，adark，lowroom，lightedbysmallwindows，sunkinthethickwall-inthesoftenedlight，andwithitsforge-
　　likechimney；itslittlecounterbythedoor，withbottles，jars，andglassesonit；itshouseholdimplementsandscrapsofdressagainstthewall；andasober-lookingwomanshemusthaveacongeniallifeofit，withGoblin，knittingatthedoor-lookedexactlylikeapicturebyOSTADE。
　　Iwalkedroundthebuildingontheoutside，inasortofdream，andyetwiththedelightfulsenseofhavingawakenedfromit，ofwhichthelight，downinthevaults，hadgivenmetheassurance。Theimmensethicknessandgiddyheightofthewalls，theenormousstrengthofthemassivetowers，thegreatextentofthebuilding，itsgiganticproportions，frowningaspect，andbarbarousirregularity，awakenaweandwonder。Therecollectionofitsoppositeolduses:animpregnablefortress，aluxuriouspalace，ahorribleprison，aplaceoftorture，thecourtoftheInquisition:
　　atoneandthesametime，ahouseoffeasting，fighting，religion，andblood:givestoeverystoneinitshugeformafearfulinterest，andimpartsnewmeaningtoitsincongruities。Icouldthinkoflittle，however，then，orlongafterwards，butthesuninthedungeons。Thepalacecomingdowntobethelounging-placeofnoisysoldiers，andbeingforcedtoechotheirroughtalk，andcommonoaths，andtohavetheirgarmentsflutteringfromitsdirtywindows，wassomereductionofitsstate，andsomethingtorejoiceat；butthedayinitscells，andtheskyfortheroofofitschambersofcruelty-thatwasitsdesolationanddefeat！IfIhadseenitinablazefromditchtorampart，Ishouldhavefeltthatnotthatlight，norallthelightinallthefirethatburns，couldwasteit，likethesunbeamsinitssecretcouncil-chamber，anditsprisons。
　　BeforeIquitthisPalaceofthePopes，letmetranslatefromthelittlehistoryImentionedjustnow，ashortanecdote，quiteappropriatetoitself，connectedwithitsadventures。
　　'Anancienttraditionrelates，thatin1441，anephewofPierredeLude，thePope'slegate，seriouslyinsultedsomedistinguishedladiesofAvignon，whoserelations，inrevenge，seizedtheyoungman，andhorriblymutilatedhim。ForseveralyearsthelegatekeptHISrevengewithinhisownbreast，buthewasnotthelessresolveduponitsgratificationatlast。Heevenmade，inthefulnessoftime，advancestowardsacompletereconciliation；andwhentheirapparentsincerityhadprevailed，heinvitedtoasplendidbanquet，inthispalace，certainfamilies，wholefamilies，whomhesoughttoexterminate。Theutmostgaietyanimatedtherepast；butthemeasuresofthelegatewerewelltaken。Whenthedessertwasontheboard，aSwisspresentedhimself，withtheannouncementthatastrangeambassadorsolicitedanextraordinaryaudience。Thelegate，excusinghimself，forthemoment，tohisguests，retired，followedbyhisofficers。Withinafewminutesafterwards，fivehundredpersonswerereducedtoashes:thewholeofthatwingofthebuildinghavingbeenblownintotheairwithaterribleexplosion！'
　　AfterseeingthechurchesIwillnottroubleyouwithchurchesjustnow，weleftAvignonthatafternoon。Theheatbeingverygreat，theroadsoutsidethewallswerestrewnwithpeoplefastasleepineverylittleslipofshade，andwithlazygroups，halfasleepandhalfawake，whowerewaitinguntilthesunshouldbelowenoughtoadmitoftheirplayingbowlsamongtheburnt-uptrees，andonthedustyroad。Theharvestherewasalreadygatheredin，andmulesandhorsesweretreadingoutthecorninthefields。Wecame，atdusk，uponawildandhillycountry，oncefamousforbrigands；andtravelledslowlyupasteepascent。Sowewenton，untilelevenatnight，whenwehaltedatthetownofAixwithintwostagesofMarseillestosleep。
　　Thehotel，withalltheblindsandshuttersclosedtokeepthelightandheatout，wascomfortableandairynextmorning，andthetownwasveryclean；butsohot，andsointenselylight，thatwhenIwalkedoutatnoonitwaslikecomingsuddenlyfromthedarkenedroomintocrispbluefire。Theairwassoveryclear，thatdistanthillsandrockypointsappearedwithinanhour'swalk；whilethetownimmediatelyathand-withakindofbluewindbetweenmeandit-seemedtobewhitehot，andtobethrowingoffafieryairfromthesurface。
　　Weleftthistowntowardsevening，andtooktheroadtoMarseilles。
　　Adustyroaditwas；thehousesshutupclose；andthevinespowderedwhite。Atnearlyallthecottagedoors，womenwerepeelingandslicingonionsintoearthenbowlsforsupper。SotheyhadbeendoinglastnightallthewayfromAvignon。Wepassedoneortwoshadydarkchateaux，surroundedbytrees，andembellishedwithcoolbasinsofwater:whichwerethemorerefreshingtobehold，fromthegreatscarcityofsuchresidencesontheroadwehadtravelled。AsweapproachedMarseilles，theroadbegantobecoveredwithholidaypeople。Outsidethepublic-houseswerepartiessmoking，drinking，playingdraughtsandcards，andonce
　　dancing。Butdust，dust，dust，everywhere。Wewenton，throughalong，straggling，dirtysuburb，throngedwithpeople；havingonourleftadrearyslopeofland，onwhichthecountry-housesoftheMarseillesmerchants，alwaysstaringwhite，arejumbledandheapedwithouttheslightestorder:backs，fronts，sides，andgablestowardsallpointsofthecompass；until，atlast，weenteredthetown。
　　Iwasthere，twiceorthriceafterwards，infairweatherandfoul；
　　andIamafraidthereisnodoubtthatitisadirtyanddisagreeableplace。Buttheprospect，fromthefortifiedheights，ofthebeautifulMediterranean，withitslovelyrocksandislands，ismostdelightful。Theseheightsareadesirableretreat，forlesspicturesquereasons-asanescapefromacompoundofvilesmellsperpetuallyarisingfromagreatharbourfullofstagnantwater，andbefouledbytherefuseofinnumerableshipswithallsortsofcargoes:which，inhotweather，isdreadfulinthelastdegree。
　　Therewereforeignsailors，ofallnations，inthestreets；withredshirts，blueshirts，buffshirts，tawnyshirts，andshirtsoforangecolour；withredcaps，bluecaps，greencaps，greatbeards，andnobeards；inTurkishturbans，glazedEnglishhats，andNeapolitanhead-dresses。Therewerethetownspeoplesittinginclustersonthepavement，orairingthemselvesonthetopsoftheirhouses，orwalkingupanddowntheclosestandleastairyofBoulevards；andtherewerecrowdsoffierce-lookingpeopleofthelowersort，blockinguptheway，constantly。Intheveryheartofallthisstiranduproar，wasthecommonmadhouse；alow，contracted，miserablebuilding，lookingstraightuponthestreet，withoutthesmallestscreenorcourt-yard；wherechatteringmad-menandmad-womenwerepeepingout，throughrustybars，atthestaringfacesbelow，whilethesun，dartingfiercelyaslantintotheirlittlecells，seemedtodryuptheirbrains，andworrythem，asiftheywerebaitedbyapackofdogs。
　　WewereprettywellaccommodatedattheHotelduParadis，situatedinanarrowstreetofveryhighhouses，withahairdresser'sshopopposite，exhibitinginoneofitswindowstwofull-lengthwaxenladies，twirlingroundandround:whichsoenchantedthehairdresserhimself，thatheandhisfamilysatinarm-chairs，andincoolundresses，onthepavementoutside，enjoyingthegratificationofthepassers-by，withlazydignity。Thefamilyhadretiredtorestwhenwewenttobed，atmidnight；butthehairdresseracorpulentman，indrabslipperswasstillsittingthere，withhislegsstretchedoutbeforehim，andevidentlycouldn'tbeartohavetheshuttersputup。
　　Nextdaywewentdowntotheharbour，wherethesailorsofallnationsweredischargingandtakingincargoesofallkinds:
　　fruits，wines，oils，silks，stuffs，velvets，andeverymannerofmerchandise。Takingoneofagreatnumberoflivelylittleboatswithgay-stripedawnings，werowedaway，underthesternsofgreatships，undertow-ropesandcables，againstandamongotherboats，andverymuchtoonearthesidesofvesselsthatwerefaintwithoranges，totheMARIEANTOINETTE，ahandsomesteamerboundforGenoa，lyingnearthemouthoftheharbour。By-and-by，thecarriage，thatunwieldy'triflefromthePantechnicon，'onaflatbarge，bumpingagainsteverything，andgivingoccasionforaprodigiousquantityofoathsandgrimaces，camestupidlyalongside；
　　andbyfiveo'clockweweresteamingoutintheopensea。Thevesselwasbeautifullyclean；themealswereservedunderanawningondeck；thenightwascalmandclear；thequietbeautyoftheseaandskyunspeakable。
　　WewereoffNice，earlynextmorning，andcoastedalong，withinafewmilesoftheCorniceroadofwhichmoreinitsplacenearlyallday。WecouldseeGenoabeforethree；andwatchingitasitgraduallydevelopeditssplendidamphitheatre，terracerisingaboveterrace，gardenabovegarden，palaceabovepalace，heightuponheight，wasampleoccupationforus，tillweranintothestatelyharbour。Havingbeendulyastonished，here，bythesightofafewCappucinimonks，whowerewatchingthefair-weighingofsomewooduponthewharf，wedroveofftoAlbaro，twomilesdistant，wherewehadengagedahouse。
　　Thewaylaythroughthemainstreets，butnotthroughtheStradaNuova，ortheStradaBalbi，whicharethefamousstreetsofpalaces。Ineverinmylifewassodismayed！Thewonderfulnoveltyofeverything，theunusualsmells，theunaccountablefilththoughitisreckonedthecleanestofItaliantowns，thedisorderlyjumblingofdirtyhouses，oneupontheroofofanother；
　　thepassagesmoresqualidandmoreclosethananyinSt。Giles'soroldParis；inandoutofwhich，notvagabonds，butwell-dressedwomen，withwhiteveilsandgreatfans，werepassingandrepassing；
　　theperfectabsenceofresemblanceinanydwelling-house，orshop，orwall，orpost，orpillar，toanythingonehadeverseenbefore；
　　andthedishearteningdirt，discomfort，anddecay；perfectlyconfoundedme。Ifellintoadismalreverie。Iamconsciousofafeverishandbewilderedvisionofsaintsandvirgins'shrinesatthestreetcorners-ofgreatnumbersoffriars，monks，andsoldiers-ofvastredcurtains，wavinginthedoorwaysofthechurches-ofalwaysgoinguphill，andyetseeingeveryotherstreetandpassagegoinghigherup-offruit-stalls，withfreshlemonsandorangeshangingingarlandsmadeofvine-leaves-ofaguard-house，andadrawbridge-andsomegateways-andvendorsoficedwater，sittingwithlittletraysuponthemarginofthekennel-andthisisalltheconsciousnessIhad，untilIwassetdowninarank，dull，weedycourt-yard，attachedtoakindofpinkjail；
　　andwastoldIlivedthere。
　　Ilittlethought，thatday，thatIshouldevercometohaveanattachmentfortheverystonesinthestreetsofGenoa，andtolookbackuponthecitywithaffectionasconnectedwithmanyhoursofhappinessandquiet！Butthesearemyfirstimpressionshonestlysetdown；andhowtheychanged，Iwillsetdowntoo。Atpresent，letusbreatheafterthislong-windedjourney。
　　CHAPTERIV-GENOAANDITSNEIGHBOURHOOD
　　THEfirstimpressionsofsuchaplaceasALBARO，thesuburbofGenoa，whereIamnow，asmyAmericanfriendswouldsay，'located，'
　　canhardlyfail，Ishouldimagine，tobemournfulanddisappointing。Itrequiresalittletimeandusetoovercomethefeelingofdepressionconsequent，atfirst，onsomuchruinandneglect。Novelty，pleasanttomostpeople，isparticularlydelightful，Ithink，tome。IamnoteasilydispiritedwhenIhavethemeansofpursuingmyownfanciesandoccupations；andIbelieveIhavesomenaturalaptitudeforaccommodatingmyselftocircumstances。But，asyet，Istrollabouthere，inalltheholesandcornersoftheneighbourhood，inaperpetualstateofforlornsurprise；andreturningtomyvilla:theVillaBagnerelloitsoundsromantic，butSignorBagnerelloisabutcherhardby:havesufficientoccupationinponderingovermynewexperiences，andcomparingthem，verymuchtomyownamusement，withmyexpectations，untilIwanderoutagain。
　　TheVillaBagnerello:orthePinkJail，afarmoreexpressivenameforthemansion:isinoneofthemostsplendidsituationsimaginable。ThenoblebayofGenoa，withthedeepblueMediterranean，liesstretchedoutnearathand；monstrousolddesolatehousesandpalacesaredottedallabout；loftyhills，withtheirtopsoftenhiddenintheclouds，andwithstrongfortsperchedhighupontheircraggysides，arecloseupontheleft；andinfront，stretchingfromthewallsofthehouse，downtoaruinedchapelwhichstandsupontheboldandpicturesquerocksonthesea-
　　shore，aregreenvineyards，whereyoumaywanderalldaylonginpartialshade，throughinterminablevistasofgrapes，trainedonaroughtrellis-workacrossthenarrowpaths。
　　Thissequesteredspotisapproachedbylanessoverynarrow，thatwhenwearrivedattheCustom-house，wefoundthepeopleherehadTAKENTHEMEASUREofthenarrowestamongthem，andwerewaitingtoapplyittothecarriage；whichceremonywasgravelyperformedinthestreet，whileweallstoodbyinbreathlesssuspense。Itwasfoundtobeaverytightfit，butjustapossibility，andnomore-
　　asIamremindedeveryday，bythesightofvariouslargeholeswhichitpunchedinthewallsoneithersideasitcamealong。Wearemorefortunate，Iamtold，thananoldlady，whotookahouseinthesepartsnotlongago，andwhostuckfastinHERcarriageinalane；andasitwasimpossibletoopenoneofthedoors，shewasobligedtosubmittotheindignityofbeinghauledthroughoneofthelittlefrontwindows，likeaharlequin。
　　Whenyouhavegotthroughthesenarrowlanes，youcometoanarchway，imperfectlystoppedupbyarustyoldgate-mygate。Therustyoldgatehasabelltocorrespond，whichyouringaslongasyoulike，andwhichnobodyanswers，asithasnoconnectionwhateverwiththehouse。Butthereisarustyoldknocker，too-
　　veryloose，sothatitslidesroundwhenyoutouchit-andifyoulearnthetrickofit，andknocklongenough，somebodycomes。ThebraveCouriercomes，andgivesyouadmittance。Youwalkintoaseedylittlegarden，allwildandweedy，fromwhichthevineyardopens；crossit，enterasquarehalllikeacellar，walkupacrackedmarblestaircase，andpassintoamostenormousroomwithavaultedroofandwhitewashedwalls:notunlikeagreatMethodistchapel。ThisistheSALA。Ithasfivewindowsandfivedoors，andisdecoratedwithpictureswhichwouldgladdentheheartofoneofthosepicture-cleanersinLondonwhohangup，asasign，apicturedivided，likedeathandthelady，atthetopoftheoldballad:
　　whichalwaysleavesyouinastateofuncertaintywhethertheingeniousprofessorhascleanedonehalf，ordirtiedtheother。
　　ThefurnitureofthisSALAisasortofredbrocade。Allthechairsareimmovable，andthesofaweighsseveraltons。
　　Onthesamefloor，andopeningoutofthissamechamber，aredining-room，drawing-room，anddiversbed-rooms:eachwithamultiplicityofdoorsandwindows。Up-stairsarediversothergauntchambers，andakitchen；anddown-stairsisanotherkitchen，which，withallsortsofstrangecontrivancesforburningcharcoal，lookslikeanalchemicallaboratory。Therearealsosomehalf-
　　dozensmallsitting-rooms，wheretheservantsinthishotJuly，mayescapefromtheheatofthefire，andwherethebraveCourierplaysallsortsofmusicalinstrumentsofhisownmanufacture，alltheeveninglong。Amightyold，wandering，ghostly，echoing，grim，barehouseitis，aseverIbeheldorthoughtof。
　　Thereisalittlevine-coveredterrace，openingfromthedrawing-
　　room；andunderthisterrace，andformingonesideofthelittlegarden，iswhatusedtobethestable。Itisnowacow-house，andhasthreecowsinit，sothatwegetnewmilkbythebucketful。
　　Thereisnopasturagenear，andtheynevergoout，butareconstantlylyingdown，andsurfeitingthemselveswithvine-leaves-
　　perfectItaliancowsenjoyingtheDOLCEFAR'NIENTEalldaylong。
　　Theyarepresidedover，andsleptwith，byanoldmannamedAntonio，andhisson；twoburnt-siennanativeswithnakedlegsandfeet，whowear，each，ashirt，apairoftrousers，andaredsash，witharelic，orsomesacredcharmlikethebonbonoffatwelfth-
　　cake，hangingroundtheneck。TheoldmanisveryanxioustoconvertmetotheCatholicfaith，andexhortsmefrequently。Wesituponastonebythedoor，sometimesintheevening，likeRobinsonCrusoeandFridayreversed；andhegenerallyrelates，towardsmyconversion，anabridgmentoftheHistoryofSaintPeter-chiefly，Ibelieve，fromtheunspeakabledelighthehasinhisimitationofthecock。
　　Theview，asIhavesaid，ischarming；butinthedayyoumustkeepthelattice-blindscloseshut，orthesunwoulddriveyoumad；andwhenthesungoesdownyoumustshutupallthewindows，orthemosquitoeswouldtemptyoutocommitsuicide。Soatthistimeoftheyear，youdon'tseemuchoftheprospectwithindoors。Asfortheflies，youdon'tmindthem。Northefleas，whosesizeisprodigious，andwhosenameisLegion，andwhopopulatethecoach-
　　housetothatextentthatIdailyexpecttoseethecarriagegoingoffbodily，drawnbymyriadsofindustriousfleasinharness。Theratsarekeptaway，quitecomfortably，byscoresofleancats，whoroamaboutthegardenforthatpurpose。Thelizards，ofcourse，nobodycaresfor；theyplayinthesun，anddon'tbite。Thelittlescorpionsaremerelycurious。Thebeetlesareratherlate，andhavenotappearedyet。Thefrogsarecompany。Thereisapreserveoftheminthegroundsofthenextvilla；andafternightfall，onewouldthinkthatscoresuponscoresofwomeninpattensweregoingupanddownawetstonepavementwithoutamoment'scessation。
　　Thatisexactlythenoisetheymake。
　　Theruinedchapel，onthepicturesqueandbeautifulseashore，wasdedicated，onceuponatime，toSaintJohntheBaptist。IbelievethereisalegendthatSaintJohn'sboneswerereceivedthere，withvarioussolemnities，whentheywerefirstbroughttoGenoa；forGenoapossessesthemtothisday。Whenthereisanyuncommontempestatsea，theyarebroughtoutandexhibitedtotheragingweather，whichtheyneverfailtocalm。InconsequenceofthisconnectionofSaintJohnwiththecity，greatnumbersofthecommonpeoplearechristenedGiovanniBaptista，whichlatternameispronouncedintheGenoesepatois'Batcheetcha，'likeasneeze。ToheareverybodycallingeverybodyelseBatcheetcha，onaSunday，orfesta-day，whentherearecrowdsinthestreets，isnotalittlesingularandamusingtoastranger。
　　Thenarrowlaneshavegreatvillasopeningintothem，whosewallsoutsidewalls，Imeanareprofuselypaintedwithallsortsofsubjects，grimandholy。Buttimeandthesea-airhavenearlyobliteratedthem；andtheylookliketheentrancetoVauxhallGardensonasunnyday。Thecourt-yardsofthesehousesareovergrownwithgrassandweeds；allsortsofhideouspatchescoverthebasesofthestatues，asiftheywereafflictedwithacutaneousdisorder；theoutergatesarerusty；andtheironbarsoutsidethelowerwindowsarealltumblingdown。Firewoodiskeptinhallswherecostlytreasuresmightbeheapedup，mountainshigh；
　　waterfallsaredryandchoked；fountains，toodulltoplay，andtoolazytowork，havejustenoughrecollectionoftheiridentity，intheirsleep，tomaketheneighbourhooddamp；andthesiroccowindisoftenblowingoverallthesethingsfordaystogether，likeagiganticovenoutforaholiday。
　　Notlongago，therewasafesta-day，inhonouroftheVIRGIN'S
　　MOTHER，whentheyoungmenoftheneighbourhood，havingworngreenwreathsofthevineinsomeprocessionorother，bathedinthem，byscores。Itlookedveryoddandpretty。ThoughIamboundtoconfessnotknowingofthefestaatthattime，thatIthought，andwasquitesatisfied，theyworethemashorsesdo-tokeepthefliesoff。
　　Soonafterwards，therewasanotherfesta-day，inhonourofSt。
　　Nazaro。OneoftheAlbaroyoungmenbroughttwolargebouquetssoonafterbreakfast，andcomingup-stairsintothegreatSALA，presentedthemhimself。ThiswasapolitewayofbeggingforacontributiontowardstheexpensesofsomemusicintheSaint'shonour，sowegavehimwhateveritmayhavebeen，andhismessengerdeparted:wellsatisfied。Atsixo'clockintheeveningwewenttothechurch-closeathand-averygaudyplace，hungalloverwithfestoonsandbrightdraperies，andfilled，fromthealtartothemaindoor，withwomen，allseated。Theywearnobonnetshere，simplyalongwhiteveil-the'mezzero；'anditwasthemostgauzy，ethereal-lookingaudienceIeversaw。Theyoungwomenarenotgenerallypretty，buttheywalkremarkablywell，andintheirpersonalcarriageandthemanagementoftheirveils，displaymuchinnategraceandelegance。Thereweresomemenpresent:notverymany:andafewofthesewerekneelingabouttheaisles，whileeverybodyelsetumbledoverthem。Innumerabletaperswereburninginthechurch；thebitsofsilverandtinaboutthesaintsespeciallyintheVirgin'snecklacesparkledbrilliantly；thepriestswereseatedaboutthechiefaltar；theorganplayedaway，lustily，andafullbanddidthelike；whileaconductor，inalittlegalleryoppositetotheband，hammeredawayonthedeskbeforehim，withascroll；andatenor，withoutanyvoice，sang。
　　Thebandplayedoneway，theorganplayedanother，thesingerwentathird，andtheunfortunateconductorbangedandbanged，andflourishedhisscrollonsomeprincipleofhisown:apparentlywellsatisfiedwiththewholeperformance。Ineverdidhearsuchadiscordantdin。Theheatwasintenseallthetime。
　　Themen，inredcaps，andwithloosecoatshangingontheirshoulderstheyneverputthemon，wereplayingbowls，andbuyingsweetmeats，immediatelyoutsidethechurch。Whenhalf-a-dozenofthemfinishedagame，theycameintotheaisle，crossedthemselveswiththeholywater，kneltononekneeforaninstant，andwalkedoffagaintoplayanothergameatbowls。Theyareremarkablyexpertatthisdiversion，andwillplayinthestonylanesandstreets，andonthemostunevenanddisastrousgroundforsuchapurpose，withasmuchnicetyasonabilliard-table。ButthemostfavouritegameisthenationaloneofMora，whichtheypursuewithsurprisingardour，andatwhichtheywillstakeeverythingtheypossess。Itisadestructivekindofgambling，requiringnoaccessoriesbutthetenfingers，whicharealways-Iintendnopun-athand。Twomenplaytogether。Onecallsanumber-saytheextremeone，ten。Hemarkswhatportionofithepleasesbythrowingoutthree，orfour，orfivefingers；andhisadversaryhas，inthesameinstant，athazard，andwithoutseeinghishand，tothrowoutasmanyfingers，aswillmaketheexactbalance。
　　Theireyesandhandsbecomesousedtothis，andactwithsuchastonishingrapidity，thatanuninitiatedbystanderwouldfinditverydifficult，ifnotimpossible，tofollowtheprogressofthegame。Theinitiated，however，ofwhomthereisalwaysaneagergrouplookingon，devouritwiththemostintenseavidity；andastheyarealwaysreadytochampiononesideortheotherincaseofadispute，andarefrequentlydividedintheirpartisanship，itisoftenaverynoisyproceeding。Itisneverthequietestgameintheworld；forthenumbersarealwayscalledinaloudsharpvoice，andfollowascloseuponeachotherastheycanbecounted。Onaholidayevening，standingatawindow，orwalkinginagarden，orpassingthroughthestreets，orsaunteringinanyquietplaceaboutthetown，youwillhearthisgameinprogressinascoreofwine-
　　shopsatonce；andlookingoveranyvineyardwalk，orturningalmostanycorner，willcomeuponaknotofplayersinfullcry。
　　Itisobservablethatmostmenhaveapropensitytothrowoutsomeparticularnumberoftenerthananother；andthevigilancewithwhichtwosharp-eyedplayerswillmutuallyendeavourtodetectthisweakness，andadapttheirgametoit，isverycuriousandentertaining。Theeffectisgreatlyheightenedbytheuniversalsuddennessandvehemenceofgesture；twomenplayingforhalfafarthingwithanintensityasall-absorbingasifthestakewerelife。
　　HardbyhereisalargePalazzo，formerlybelongingtosomememberoftheBrignolefamily，butjustnowhiredbyaschoolofJesuitsfortheirsummerquarters。Iwalkedintoitsdismantledprecinctstheothereveningaboutsunset，andcouldn'thelppacingupanddownforalittletime，drowsilytakingintheaspectoftheplace:
　　whichisrepeatedhereaboutsinalldirections。