Ahollow-cheekedandscowlingpeopletheyare！Allbeggars；butthat'snothing。Lookatthemastheygatherround。Some，aretooindolenttocomedown-stairs，oraretoowiselymistrustfulofthestairs，perhaps，toventure:sostretchouttheirleanhandsfromupperwindows，andhowl；others，comeflockingaboutus，fightingandjostlingoneanother，anddemanding，incessantly，charityfortheloveofGod，charityfortheloveoftheBlessedVirgin，charityfortheloveofalltheSaints。Agroupofmiserablechildren，almostnaked，screamingforththesamepetition，discoverthattheycanseethemselvesreflectedinthevarnishofthecarriage，andbegintodanceandmakegrimaces，thattheymayhavethepleasureofseeingtheiranticsrepeatedinthismirror。A
　　crippledidiot，intheactofstrikingoneofthemwhodrownshisclamorousdemandforcharity，observeshisangrycounterpartinthepanel，stopsshort，andthrustingouthistongue，beginstowaghisheadandchatter。Theshrillcryraisedatthis，awakenshalf-a-
　　dozenwildcreatureswrappedinfrowsybrowncloaks，whoarelyingonthechurch-stepswithpotsandpansforsale。These，scramblingup，approach，andbegdefiantly。'Iamhungry。Givemesomething。
　　Listentome，Signor。Iamhungry！'Then，aghastlyoldwoman，fearfulofbeingtoolate，comeshobblingdownthestreet，stretchingoutonehand，andscratchingherselfallthewaywiththeother，andscreaming，longbeforeshecanbeheard，'Charity，charity！I'llgoandprayforyoudirectly，beautifullady，ifyou'llgivemecharity！'Lastly，themembersofabrotherhoodforburyingthedead:hideouslymasked，andattiredinshabbyblackrobes，whiteattheskirts，withthesplashesofmanymuddywinters:escortedbyadirtypriest，andacongenialcross-bearer:
　　comehurryingpast。Surroundedbythismotleyconcourse，wemoveoutofFondi:badbrighteyesglaringatus，outofthedarknessofeverycrazytenement，likeglisteningfragmentsofitsfilthandputrefaction。
　　Anoblemountain-pass，withtheruinsofafortonastrongeminence，traditionallycalledtheFortofFraDiavolo；theoldtownofItri，likeadeviceinpastry，builtup，almostperpendicularly，onahill，andapproachedbylongsteepflightsofsteps；beautifulMoladiGaeta，whosewines，likethoseofAlbano，havedegeneratedsincethedaysofHorace，orhistasteforwinewasbad:whichisnotlikelyofonewhoenjoyeditsomuch，andextolleditsowell；anothernightupontheroadatSt。Agatha；arestnextdayatCapua，whichispicturesque，buthardlysoseductivetoatravellernow，asthesoldiersofPraetorianRomewerewonttofindtheancientcityofthatname；aflatroadamongvinesfestoonedandloopedfromtreetotree；andMountVesuviuscloseathandatlast！-itsconeandsummitwhitenedwithsnow；
　　anditssmokehangingoverit，intheheavyatmosphereoftheday，likeadensecloud。Sowego，rattlingdownhill，intoNaples。
　　Afuneraliscomingupthestreet，towardsus。Thebody，onanopenbier，borneonakindofpalanquin，coveredwithagayclothofcrimsonandgold。Themourners，inwhitegownsandmasks。Iftherebedeathabroad，lifeiswellrepresentedtoo，forallNapleswouldseemtobeoutofdoors，andtearingtoandfroincarriages。
　　Someofthese，thecommonVetturinovehicles，aredrawnbythreehorsesabreast，deckedwithsmarttrappingsandgreatabundanceofbrazenornament，andalwaysgoingveryfast。Notthattheirloadsarelight；forthesmallestofthemhasatleastsixpeopleinside，fourinfront，fourorfivemorehangingonbehind，andtwoorthreemore，inanetorbagbelowtheaxle-tree，wheretheyliehalf-suffocatedwithmudanddust。ExhibitorsofPunch，buffosingerswithguitars，recitersofpoetry，recitersofstories，arowofcheapexhibitionswithclownsandshowmen，drums，andtrumpets，paintedclothsrepresentingthewonderswithin，andadmiringcrowdsassembledwithout，assistthewhirlandbustle。
　　Raggedlazzaronilieasleepindoorways，archways，andkennels；thegentry，gailydressed，aredashingupanddownincarriagesontheChiaji，orwalkinginthePublicGardens；andquietletter-writers，perchedbehindtheirlittledesksandinkstandsunderthePorticooftheGreatTheatreofSanCarlo，inthepublicstreet，arewaitingforclients。
　　Hereisagalley-slaveinchains，whowantsaletterwrittentoafriend。Heapproachesaclerkly-lookingman，sittingunderthecornerarch，andmakeshisbargain。Hehasobtainedpermissionofthesentinelwhoguardshim:whostandsnear，leaningagainstthewallandcrackingnuts。Thegalley-slavedictatesintheearoftheletter-writer，whathedesirestosay；andashecan'treadwriting，looksintentlyinhisface，toreadtherewhetherhesetsdownfaithfullywhatheistold。Afteratime，thegalley-slavebecomesdiscursive-incoherent。Thesecretarypausesandrubshischin。Thegalley-slaveisvolubleandenergetic。Thesecretary，atlength，catchestheidea，andwiththeairofamanwhoknowshowtowordit，setsitdown；stopping，nowandthen，toglancebackathistextadmiringly。Thegalley-slaveissilent。Thesoldierstoicallycrackshisnuts。Isthereanythingmoretosay?
　　inquirestheletter-writer。Nomore。Thenlisten，friendofmine。
　　Hereadsitthrough。Thegalley-slaveisquiteenchanted。Itisfolded，andaddressed，andgiventohim，andhepaysthefee。Thesecretaryfallsbackindolentlyinhischair，andtakesabook。
　　Thegalley-slavegathersupanemptysack。Thesentinelthrowsawayahandfulofnut-shells，shouldershismusket，andawaytheygotogether。
　　Whydothebeggarsraptheirchinsconstantly，withtheirrighthands，whenyoulookatthem?EverythingisdoneinpantomimeinNaples，andthatistheconventionalsignforhunger。Amanwhoisquarrellingwithanother，yonder，laysthepalmofhisrighthandonthebackofhisleft，andshakesthetwothumbs-expressiveofadonkey'sears-whereathisadversaryisgoadedtodesperation。
　　Twopeoplebargainingforfish，thebuyeremptiesanimaginarywaistcoatpocketwhenheistoldtheprice，andwalksawaywithoutaword:havingthoroughlyconveyedtothesellerthatheconsidersittoodear。Twopeopleincarriages，meeting，onetoucheshislips，twiceorthrice，holdingupthefivefingersofhisrighthand，andgivesahorizontalcutintheairwiththepalm。Theothernodsbriskly，andgoeshisway。Hehasbeeninvitedtoafriendlydinnerathalf-pastfiveo'clock，andwillcertainlycome。
　　AlloverItaly，apeculiarshakeoftherighthandfromthewrist，withtheforefingerstretchedout，expressesanegative-theonlynegativebeggarswilleverunderstand。But，inNaples，thosefivefingersareacopiouslanguage。
　　Allthis，andeveryotherkindofout-doorlifeandstir，andmacaroni-eatingatsunset，andflower-sellingalldaylong，andbeggingandstealingeverywhereandatallhours，youseeuponthebrightsea-shore，wherethewavesofthebaysparklemerrily。But，loversandhuntersofthepicturesque，letusnotkeeptoostudiouslyoutofviewthemiserabledepravity，degradation，andwretchedness，withwhichthisgayNeapolitanlifeisinseparablyassociated！ItisnotwelltofindSaintGiles'ssorepulsive，andthePortaCapuanasoattractive。Apairofnakedlegsandaraggedredscarf，donotmakeALLthedifferencebetweenwhatisinterestingandwhatiscoarseandodious?Paintingandpoetisingforever，ifyouwill，thebeautiesofthismostbeautifulandlovelyspotofearth，letus，asourduty，trytoassociateanewpicturesquewithsomefaintrecognitionofman'sdestinyandcapabilities；morehopeful，Ibelieve，amongtheiceandsnowoftheNorthPole，thaninthesunandbloomofNaples。
　　Capri-oncemadeodiousbythedeifiedbeastTiberius-Ischia，Procida，andthethousanddistantbeautiesoftheBay，lieintheblueseayonder，changinginthemistandsunshinetwentytimesa-
　　day:nowcloseathand，nowfaroff，nowunseen。Thefairestcountryintheworld，isspreadaboutus。WhetherweturntowardstheMisenoshoreofthesplendidwateryamphitheatre，andgobytheGrottoofPosilipototheGrottodelCaneandawaytoBaiae:ortaketheotherway，towardsVesuviusandSorrento，itisonesuccessionofdelights。Inthelast-nameddirection，where，overdoorsandarchways，therearecountlesslittleimagesofSanGennaro，withhisCanute'shandstretchedout，tocheckthefuryoftheBurningMountain，wearecarriedpleasantly，byarailroadonthebeautifulSeaBeach，pastthetownofTorredelGreco，builtupontheashesoftheformertowndestroyedbyaneruptionofVesuvius，withinahundredyears；andpasttheflat-roofedhouses，granaries，andmacaronimanufactories；toCastel-a-Mare，withitsruinedcastle，nowinhabitedbyfishermen，standingintheseauponaheapofrocks。Here，therailroadterminates；but，hencewemayrideon，byanunbrokensuccessionofenchantingbays，andbeautifulscenery，slopingfromthehighestsummitofSaintAngelo，thehighestneighbouringmountain，downtothewater'sedge-amongvineyards，olive-trees，gardensoforangesandlemons，orchards，heaped-uprocks，greengorgesinthehills-andbythebasesofsnow-coveredheights，andthroughsmalltownswithhandsome，dark-
　　hairedwomenatthedoors-andpassdelicioussummervillas-toSorrento，wherethePoetTassodrewhisinspirationfromthebeautysurroundinghim。Returning，wemayclimbtheheightsaboveCastel-
　　a-Mare，andlookingdownamongtheboughsandleaves，seethecrispwaterglisteninginthesun；andclustersofwhitehousesindistantNaples，dwindling，inthegreatextentofprospect，downtodice。Thecomingbacktothecity，bythebeachagain，atsunset:
　　withtheglowingseaononeside，andthedarkeningmountain，withitssmokeandflame，upontheother:isasublimeconclusiontothegloryoftheday。
　　ThatchurchbythePortaCapuana-neartheoldfisher-marketinthedirtiestquarterofdirtyNaples，wheretherevoltofMasaniellobegan-ismemorableforhavingbeenthesceneofoneofhisearliestproclamationstothepeople，andisparticularlyremarkablefornothingelse，unlessitbeitswaxenandbejewelledSaintinaglasscase，withtwooddhands；ortheenormousnumberofbeggarswhoareconstantlyrappingtheirchinsthere，likeabatteryofcastanets。Thecathedralwiththebeautifuldoor，andthecolumnsofAfricanandEgyptiangranitethatonceornamentedthetempleofApollo，containsthefamoussacredbloodofSanGennaroorJanuarius:whichispreservedintwophialsinasilvertabernacle，andmiraculouslyliquefiesthreetimesa-year，tothegreatadmirationofthepeople。Atthesamemoment，thestonedistantsomemileswheretheSaintsufferedmartyrdom，becomesfaintlyred。Itissaidthattheofficiatingprieststurnfaintlyredalso，sometimes，whenthesemiraclesoccur。
　　Theold，oldmenwholiveinhovelsattheentranceoftheseancientcatacombs，andwho，intheirageandinfirmity，seemwaitinghere，tobeburiedthemselves，aremembersofacuriousbody，calledtheRoyalHospital，whoaretheofficialattendantsatfunerals。Twooftheseoldspectrestotteraway，withlightedtapers，toshowthecavernsofdeath-asunconcernedasiftheywereimmortal。Theywereusedasburying-placesforthreehundredyears；and，inonepart，isalargepitfullofskullsandbones，saidtobethesadremainsofagreatmortalityoccasionedbyaplague。Intherestthereisnothingbutdust。Theyconsist，chiefly，ofgreatwidecorridorsandlabyrinths，hewnoutoftherock。Attheendofsomeoftheselongpassages，areunexpectedglimpsesofthedaylight，shiningdownfromabove。Itlooksasghastlyandasstrange；amongthetorches，andthedust，andthedarkvaults:asifit，too，weredeadandburied。
　　Thepresentburial-placeliesoutyonder，onahillbetweenthecityandVesuvius。TheoldCampoSantowithitsthreehundredandsixty-fivepits，isonlyusedforthosewhodieinhospitals，andprisons，andareunclaimedbytheirfriends。Thegracefulnewcemetery，atnogreatdistancefromit，thoughyetunfinished，hasalreadymanygravesamongitsshrubsandflowers，andairycolonnades。Itmightbereasonablyobjectedelsewhere，thatsomeofthetombsaremeretriciousandtoofanciful；butthegeneralbrightnessseemstojustifyithere；andMountVesuvius，separatedfromthembyalovelyslopeofground，exaltsandsaddensthescene。
　　IfitbesolemntobeholdfromthisnewCityoftheDead，withitsdarksmokehangingintheclearsky，howmuchmoreawfulandimpressiveisit，viewedfromtheghostlyruinsofHerculaneumandPompeii！
　　Standatthebottomofthegreatmarket-placeofPompeii，andlookupthesilentstreets，throughtheruinedtemplesofJupiterandIsis，overthebrokenhouseswiththeirinmostsanctuariesopentotheday，awaytoMountVesuvius，brightandsnowyinthepeacefuldistance；andloseallcountoftime，andheedofotherthings，inthestrangeandmelancholysensationofseeingtheDestroyedandtheDestroyermakingthisquietpictureinthesun。Then，rambleon，andsee，ateveryturn，thelittlefamiliartokensofhumanhabitationandevery-daypursuits；thechafingofthebucket-ropeinthestonerimoftheexhaustedwell；thetrackofcarriage-
　　wheelsinthepavementofthestreet；themarksofdrinking-vesselsonthestonecounterofthewine-shop；theamphoraeinprivatecellars，storedawaysomanyhundredyearsago，andundisturbedtothishour-allrenderingthesolitudeanddeadlylonesomenessoftheplace，tenthousandtimesmoresolemn，thanifthevolcano，initsfury，hadsweptthecityfromtheearth，andsunkitinthebottomofthesea。
　　Afteritwasshakenbytheearthquakewhichprecededtheeruption，workmenwereemployedinshapingout，instone，newornamentsfortemplesandotherbuildingsthathadsuffered。Hereliestheirwork，outsidethecitygate，asiftheywouldreturnto-morrow。
　　InthecellarofDiomede'shouse，wherecertainskeletonswerefoundhuddledtogether，closetothedoor，theimpressionoftheirbodiesontheashes，hardenedwiththeashes，andbecamestampedandfixedthere，aftertheyhadshrunk，inside，toscantybones。
　　So，inthetheatreofHerculaneum，acomicmask，floatingonthestreamwhenitwashotandliquid，stampeditsmimicfeaturesinitasithardenedintostone；andnow，itturnsuponthestrangerthefantasticlookitturnedupontheaudiencesinthatsametheatretwothousandyearsago。
　　Nexttothewonderofgoingupanddownthestreets，andinandoutofthehouses，andtraversingthesecretchambersofthetemplesofareligionthathasvanishedfromtheearth，andfindingsomanyfreshtracesofremoteantiquity:asifthecourseofTimehadbeenstoppedafterthisdesolation，andtherehadbeennonightsanddays，months，years，andcenturies，since:nothingismoreimpressiveandterriblethanthemanyevidencesofthesearchingnatureoftheashes，asbespeakingtheirirresistiblepower，andtheimpossibilityofescapingthem。Inthewine-cellars，theyforcedtheirwayintotheearthenvessels:displacingthewineandchokingthem，tothebrim，withdust。Inthetombs，theyforcedtheashesofthedeadfromthefuneralurns，andrainednewruinevenintothem。Themouths，andeyes，andskullsofalltheskeletons，werestuffedwiththisterriblehail。InHerculaneum，wherethefloodwasofadifferentandaheavierkind，itrolledin，likeasea。Imagineadelugeofwaterturnedtomarble，atitsheight-andthatiswhatiscalled'thelava'here。
　　Someworkmenwerediggingthegloomywellonthebrinkofwhichwenowstand，lookingdown，whentheycameonsomeofthestonebenchesofthetheatre-thosestepsforsuchtheyseematthebottomoftheexcavation-andfoundtheburiedcityofHerculaneum。Presentlygoingdown，withlightedtorches，weareperplexedbygreatwallsofmonstrousthickness，risingupbetweenthebenches，shuttingoutthestage，obtrudingtheirshapelessformsinabsurdplaces，confusingthewholeplan，andmakingitadisordereddream。Wecannot，atfirst，believe，orpicturetoourselves，thatTHIScamerollingin，anddrownedthecity；andthatallthatisnothere，hasbeencutaway，bytheaxe，likesolidstone。Butthisperceivedandunderstood，thehorrorandoppressionofitspresenceareindescribable。
　　Manyofthepaintingsonthewallsintherooflesschambersofbothcities，orcarefullyremovedtothemuseumatNaples，areasfreshandplain，asiftheyhadbeenexecutedyesterday。Herearesubjectsofstilllife，asprovisions，deadgame，bottles，glasses，andthelike；familiarclassicalstories，ormythologicalfables，alwaysforciblyandplainlytold；conceitsofcupids，quarrelling，sporting，workingattrades；theatricalrehearsals；poetsreadingtheirproductionstotheirfriends；inscriptionschalkeduponthewalls；politicalsquibs，advertisements，roughdrawingsbyschoolboys；everythingtopeopleandrestoretheancientcities，inthefancyoftheirwonderingvisitor。Furniture，too，yousee，ofeverykind-lamps，tables，couches；vesselsforeating，drinking，andcooking；workmen'stools，surgicalinstruments，ticketsforthetheatre，piecesofmoney，personalornaments，bunchesofkeysfoundclenchedinthegraspofskeletons，helmetsofguardsandwarriors；
　　littlehouseholdbells，yetmusicalwiththeirolddomestictones。
　　Theleastamongtheseobjects，lendsitsaidtoswelltheinterestofVesuvius，andinvestitwithaperfectfascination。Thelooking，fromeitherruinedcity，intotheneighbouringgroundsovergrownwithbeautifulvinesandluxurianttrees；andrememberingthathouseuponhouse，templeontemple，buildingafterbuilding，andstreetafterstreet，arestilllyingunderneaththerootsofallthequietcultivation，waitingtobeturneduptothelightofday；issomethingsowonderful，sofullofmystery，socaptivatingtotheimagination，thatonewouldthinkitwouldbeparamount，andyieldtonothingelse。TonothingbutVesuvius；butthemountainisthegeniusofthescene。Fromeveryindicationoftheruinithasworked，welook，again，withanabsorbinginteresttowhereitssmokeisrisingupintothesky。Itisbeyondus，aswethreadtheruinedstreets:aboveus，aswestandupontheruinedwalls，wefollowitthrougheveryvistaofbrokencolumns，aswewanderthroughtheemptycourt-yardsofthehouses；andthroughthegarlandingsandinterlacingsofeverywantonvine。TurningawaytoPaestumyonder，toseetheawfulstructuresbuilt，theleastagedofthem，hundredsofyearsbeforethebirthofChrist，andstandingyet，erectinlonelymajesty，uponthewild，malaria-blightedplain-wewatchVesuviusasitdisappearsfromtheprospect，andwatchforitagain，onourreturn，withthesamethrillofinterest:asthedoomanddestinyofallthisbeautifulcountry，bidingitsterribletime。
　　Itisverywarminthesun，onthisearlyspring-day，whenwereturnfromPaestum，butverycoldintheshade:insomuch，thatalthoughwemaylunch，pleasantly，atnoon，intheopenair，bythegateofPompeii，theneighbouringrivuletsuppliesthickiceforourwine。But，thesunisshiningbrightly；thereisnotacloudorspeckofvapourinthewholebluesky，lookingdownuponthebayofNaples；andthemoonwillbeatthefullto-night。NomatterthatthesnowandiceliethickuponthesummitofVesuvius，orthatwehavebeenonfootalldayatPompeii，orthatcroakersmaintainthatstrangersshouldnotbeonthemountainbynight，insuchanunusualseason。Letustakeadvantageofthefineweather；
　　makethebestofourwaytoResina，thelittlevillageatthefootofthemountain；prepareourselves，aswellaswecan，onsoshortanotice，attheguide'shouse；ascendatonce，andhavesunsethalf-wayup，moon-lightatthetop，andmidnighttocomedownin！
　　Atfouro'clockintheafternoon，thereisaterribleuproarinthelittlestable-yardofSigniorSalvatore，therecognisedhead-guide，withthegoldbandroundhiscap；andthirtyunder-guideswhoareallscufflingandscreamingatonce，arepreparinghalf-a-dozensaddledponies，threelitters，andsomestoutstaves，forthejourney。Everyoneofthethirty，quarrelswiththeothertwenty-
　　nine，andfrightensthesixponies；andasmuchofthevillageascanpossiblysqueezeitselfintothelittlestable-yard，participatesinthetumult，andgetstroddenonbythecattle。
　　Aftermuchviolentskirmishing，andmorenoisethanwouldsufficeforthestormingofNaples，theprocessionstarts。Thehead-guide，whoisliberallypaidforalltheattendants，ridesalittleinadvanceoftheparty；theotherthirtyguidesproceedonfoot。
　　Eightgoforwardwiththelittersthataretobeusedby-and-by；
　　andtheremainingtwo-and-twentybeg。
　　Weascend，gradually，bystonylaneslikeroughbroadflightsofstairs，forsometime。Atlength，weleavethese，andthevineyardsoneithersideofthem，andemergeuponableakbareregionwherethelavaliesconfusedly，inenormousrustymasses；asiftheearthhadbeenploughedupbyburningthunderbolts。Andnow，wehalttoseethesunset。Thechangethatfallsuponthedrearyregion，andonthewholemountain，asitsredlightfades，andthenightcomeson-andtheunutterablesolemnityanddrearinessthatreignaround，whothathaswitnessedit，caneverforget！
　　Itisdark，whenafterwinding，forsometime，overthebrokenground，wearriveatthefootofthecone:whichisextremelysteep，andseemstorise，almostperpendicularly，fromthespotwherewedismount。Theonlylightisreflectedfromthesnow，deep，hard，andwhite，withwhichtheconeiscovered。Itisnowintenselycold，andtheairispiercing。Thethirty-onehavebroughtnotorches，knowingthatthemoonwillrisebeforewereachthetop。Twoofthelittersaredevotedtothetwoladies；thethird，toaratherheavygentlemanfromNaples，whosehospitalityandgood-naturehaveattachedhimtotheexpedition，anddeterminedhimtoassistindoingthehonoursofthemountain。Theratherheavygentlemaniscarriedbyfifteenmen；eachoftheladiesbyhalf-a-dozen。Wewhowalk，makethebestuseofourstaves；andsothewholepartybegintolabourupwardoverthesnow，-asiftheyweretoilingtothesummitofanantediluvianTwelfth-cake。
　　Wearealongtimetoilingup；andthehead-guidelooksoddlyabouthimwhenoneofthecompany-notanItalian，thoughanhabitueofthemountainformanyyears:whomwewillcall，forourpresentpurpose，Mr。PickleofPortici-suggeststhat，asitisfreezinghard，andtheusualfootingofashesiscoveredbythesnowandice，itwillsurelybedifficulttodescend。Butthesightofthelittersabove，tiltingupanddown，andjerkingfromthissidetothat，asthebearerscontinuallyslipandtumble，divertsourattention；moreespeciallyasthewholelengthoftheratherheavygentlemanis，atthatmoment，presentedtousalarminglyforeshortened，withhisheaddownwards。
　　Therisingofthemoonsoonafterwards，revivestheflaggingspiritsofthebearers。Stimulatingeachotherwiththeirusualwatchword，'Courage，friend！Itistoeatmacaroni！'theypresson，gallantly，forthesummit。
　　Fromtingeingthetopofthesnowaboveus，withabandoflight，andpouringitinastreamthroughthevalleybelow，whilewehavebeenascendinginthedark，themoonsoonlightsthewholewhitemountain-side，andthebroadseadownbelow，andtinyNaplesinthedistance，andeveryvillageinthecountryround。Thewholeprospectisinthislovelystate，whenwecomeupontheplatformonthemountain-top-theregionofFire-anexhaustedcraterformedofgreatmassesofgiganticcinders，likeblocksofstonefromsometremendouswaterfall，burntup；fromeverychinkandcreviceofwhich，hot，sulphuroussmokeispouringout:while，fromanotherconical-shapedhill，thepresentcrater，risingabruptlyfromthisplatformattheend，greatsheetsoffirearestreamingforth:
　　reddeningthenightwithflame，blackeningitwithsmoke，andspottingitwithred-hotstonesandcinders，thatflyupintotheairlikefeathers，andfalldownlikelead。Whatwordscanpaintthegloomandgrandeurofthisscene！
　　Thebrokenground；thesmoke；thesenseofsuffocationfromthesulphur:thefearoffallingdownthroughthecrevicesintheyawningground；thestopping，everynowandthen，forsomebodywhoismissinginthedarkforthedensesmokenowobscuresthemoon；
　　theintolerablenoiseofthethirty；andthehoarseroaringofthemountain；makeitasceneofsuchconfusion，atthesametime，thatwereelagain。But，draggingtheladiesthroughit，andacrossanotherexhaustedcratertothefootofthepresentVolcano，weapproachclosetoitonthewindyside，andthensitdownamongthehotashesatitsfoot，andlookupinsilence；faintlyestimatingtheactionthatisgoingonwithin，fromitsbeingfullahundredfeethigher，atthisminute，thanitwassixweeksago。
　　Thereissomethinginthefireandroar，thatgeneratesanirresistibledesiretogetnearertoit。Wecannotrestlong，withoutstartingoff，twoofus，onourhandsandknees，accompaniedbythehead-guide，toclimbtothebrimoftheflamingcrater，andtrytolookin。Meanwhile，thethirtyyell，aswithonevoice，thatitisadangerousproceeding，andcalltoustocomeback；frighteningtherestofthepartyoutoftheirwits。
　　Whatwiththeirnoise，andwhatwiththetremblingofthethincrustofground，thatseemsabouttoopenunderneathourfeetandplungeusintheburninggulfbelowwhichistherealdanger，iftherebeany；andwhatwiththeflashingofthefireinourfaces，andtheshowerofred-hotashesthatisrainingdown，andthechokingsmokeandsulphur；wemaywellfeelgiddyandirrational，likedrunkenmen。But，wecontrivetoclimbuptothebrim，andlookdown，foramoment，intotheHellofboilingfirebelow。
　　Then，weallthreecomerollingdown；blackened，andsinged，andscorched，andhot，andgiddy:andeachwithhisdressalightinhalf-a-dozenplaces。
　　Youhaveread，athousandtimes，thattheusualwayofdescending，is，byslidingdowntheashes:which，formingagradually-
　　increasingledgebelowthefeet，preventtoorapidadescent。But，whenwehavecrossedthetwoexhaustedcratersonourwaybackandarecometothisprecipitousplace，thereisasMr。Picklehasforetoldnovestigeofashestobeseen；thewholebeingasmoothsheetofice。
　　Inthisdilemma，tenoradozenoftheguidescautiouslyjoinhands，andmakeachainofmen；ofwhomtheforemostbeat，aswellastheycan，aroughtrackwiththeirsticks，downwhichwepreparetofollow。Thewaybeingfearfullysteep，andnoneoftheparty:
　　evenofthethirty:beingabletokeeptheirfeetforsixpacestogether，theladiesaretakenoutoftheirlitters，andplaced，eachbetweentwocarefulpersons；whileothersofthethirtyholdbytheirskirts，topreventtheirfallingforward-anecessaryprecaution，tendingtotheimmediateandhopelessdilapidationoftheirapparel。Theratherheavygentlemanisabjuredtoleavehislittertoo，andbeescortedinasimilarmanner；butheresolvestobebroughtdownashewasbroughtup，ontheprinciplethathisfifteenbearersarenotlikelytotumbleallatonce，andthatheissaferso，thantrustingtohisownlegs。
　　Inthisorder，webeginthedescent:sometimesonfoot，sometimesshufflingontheice:alwaysproceedingmuchmorequietlyandslowly，thanonourupwardway:andconstantlyalarmedbythefallingamongusofsomebodyfrombehind，whoendangersthefootingofthewholeparty，andclingspertinaciouslytoanybody'sankles。
　　Itisimpossibleforthelittertobeinadvance，too，asthetrackhastobemade；anditsappearancebehindus，overhead-withsomeoneorotherofthebearersalwaysdown，andtheratherheavygentlemanwithhislegsalwaysintheair-isverythreateningandfrightful。Wehavegoneonthus，averylittleway，painfullyandanxiously，butquitemerrily，andregardingitasagreatsuccess-
　　andhaveallfallenseveraltimes，andhaveallbeenstopped，somehoworother，aswewereslidingaway-whenMr。PickleofPortici，intheactofremarkingontheseuncommoncircumstancesasquitebeyondhisexperience，stumbles，falls，disengageshimself，withquickpresenceofmind，fromthoseabouthim，plungesawayheadforemost，androlls，overandover，downthewholesurfaceofthecone！
　　Sickeningasitistolook，andbesopowerlesstohelphim，Iseehimthere，inthemoonlight-Ihavehadsuchadreamoften-
　　skimmingoverthewhiteice，likeacannon-ball。Almostatthesamemoment，thereisacryfrombehind；andamanwhohascarriedalightbasketofsparecloaksonhishead，comesrollingpast，atthesamefrightfulspeed，closelyfollowedbyaboy。Atthisclimaxofthechapterofaccidents，theremainingeight-and-twentyvociferatetothatdegree，thatapackofwolveswouldbemusictothem！
　　Giddy，andbloody，andamerebundleofrags，isPickleofPorticiwhenwereachtheplacewherewedismounted，andwherethehorsesarewaiting；but，thankGod，soundinlimb！Andneverarewelikelytobemoregladtoseeamanaliveandonhisfeet，thantoseehimnow-makinglightofittoo，thoughsorelybruisedandingreatpain。TheboyisbroughtintotheHermitageontheMountain，whileweareatsupper，withhisheadtiedup；andthemanisheardof，somehoursafterwards。Hetooisbruisedandstunned，buthasbrokennobones；thesnowhaving，fortunately，coveredallthelargerblocksofrockandstone，andrenderedthemharmless。
　　Afteracheerfulmeal，andagoodrestbeforeablazingfire，weagaintakehorse，andcontinueourdescenttoSalvatore'shouse-
　　veryslowly，byreasonofourbruisedfriendbeinghardlyabletokeepthesaddle，orendurethepainofmotion。Thoughitissolateatnight，orearlyinthemorning，allthepeopleofthevillagearewaitingaboutthelittlestable-yardwhenwearrive，andlookinguptheroadbywhichweareexpected。Ourappearanceishailedwithagreatclamouroftongues，andageneralsensationforwhichinourmodestywearesomewhatatalosstoaccount，until，turningintotheyard，wefindthatoneofapartyofFrenchgentlemenwhowereonthemountainatthesametimeislyingonsomestrawinthestable，withabrokenlimb:lookinglikeDeath，andsufferinggreattorture；andthatwewereconfidentlysupposedtohaveencounteredsomeworseaccident。
　　So'wellreturned，andHeavenbepraised！'asthecheerfulVetturino，whohasborneuscompanyallthewayfromPisa，says，withallhisheart！Andawaywithhisreadyhorses，intosleepingNaples！
　　ItwakesagaintoPolicinelliandpickpockets，buffosingersandbeggars，rags，puppets，flowers，brightness，dirt，anduniversaldegradation；airingitsHarlequinsuitinthesunshine，nextdayandeveryday；singing，starving，dancing，gaming，onthesea-
　　shore；andleavingalllabourtotheburningmountain，whichiseveratitswork。
　　OurEnglishdilettantiwouldbeverypatheticonthesubjectofthenationaltaste，iftheycouldhearanItalianoperahalfasbadlysunginEnglandaswemayheartheFoscariperformed，to-night，inthesplendidtheatreofSanCarlo。But，forastonishingtruthandspiritinseizingandembodyingthereallifeaboutit，theshabbylittleSanCarlinoTheatre-thericketyhouseonestoryhigh，withastaringpictureoutside:downamongthedrumsandtrumpets，andthetumblers，andtheladyconjurer-iswithoutarivalanywhere。
　　ThereisoneextraordinaryfeatureinthereallifeofNaples，atwhichwemaytakeaglancebeforewego-theLotteries。
　　TheyprevailinmostpartsofItaly，butareparticularlyobvious，intheireffectsandinfluences，here。TheyaredrawneverySaturday。TheybringanimmenserevenuetotheGovernment；anddiffuseatasteforgamblingamongthepoorestofthepoor，whichisverycomfortabletothecoffersoftheState，andveryruinoustothemselves。Theloweststakeisonegrain；lessthanafarthing。Onehundrednumbers-fromonetoahundred，inclusive-
　　areputintoabox。Fivearedrawn。Thosearetheprizes。Ibuythreenumbers。Ifoneofthemcomeup，Iwinasmallprize。Iftwo，somehundredsoftimesmystake。Ifthree，threethousandfivehundredtimesmystake。Istakeorplayastheycallit
　　whatIcanuponmynumbers，andbuywhatnumbersIplease。TheamountIplay，Ipayatthelotteryoffice，whereIpurchasetheticket；anditisstatedontheticketitself。
　　Everylotteryofficekeepsaprintedbook，anUniversalLotteryDiviner，whereeverypossibleaccidentandcircumstanceisprovidedfor，andhasanumberagainstit。Forinstance，letustaketwocarlini-aboutsevenpence。Onourwaytothelotteryoffice，werunagainstablackman。Whenwegetthere，wesaygravely，'TheDiviner。'Itishandedoverthecounter，asaseriousmatterofbusiness。Welookatblackman。Suchanumber。'Giveusthat。'
　　Welookatrunningagainstapersoninthestreet。'Giveusthat。
　　'Welookatthenameofthestreetitself。'Giveusthat。'Now，wehaveourthreenumbers。
　　IftheroofofthetheatreofSanCarloweretofallin，somanypeoplewouldplayuponthenumbersattachedtosuchanaccidentintheDiviner，thattheGovernmentwouldsoonclosethosenumbers，anddeclinetoruntheriskoflosinganymoreuponthem。Thisoftenhappens。Notlongago，whentherewasafireintheKing'sPalace，therewassuchadesperaterunonfire，andking，andpalace，thatfurtherstakesonthenumbersattachedtothosewordsintheGoldenBookwereforbidden。Everyaccidentorevent，issupposed，bytheignorantpopulace，tobearevelationtothebeholder，orpartyconcerned，inconnectionwiththelottery。
　　Certainpeoplewhohaveatalentfordreamingfortunately，aremuchsoughtafter；andtherearesomepriestswhoareconstantlyfavouredwithvisionsoftheluckynumbers。
　　Iheardofahorserunningawaywithaman，anddashinghimdown，dead，atthecornerofastreet。Pursuingthehorsewithincrediblespeed，wasanotherman，whoransofast，thathecameup，immediatelyaftertheaccident。Hethrewhimselfuponhiskneesbesidetheunfortunaterider，andclaspedhishandwithanexpressionofthewildestgrief。'Ifyouhavelife，'hesaid，'speakonewordtome！Ifyouhaveonegaspofbreathleft，mentionyourageforHeaven'ssake，thatImayplaythatnumberinthelottery。'
　　Itisfouro'clockintheafternoon，andwemaygotoseeourlotterydrawn。TheceremonytakesplaceeverySaturday，intheTribunale，orCourtofJustice-thissingular，earthy-smellingroom，orgallery，asmouldyasanoldcellar，andasdampasadungeon。Attheupperendisaplatform，withalargehorse-shoetableuponit；andaPresidentandCouncilsittinground-alljudgesoftheLaw。ThemanonthelittlestoolbehindthePresident，istheCapoLazzarone，akindoftribuneofthepeople，appointedontheirbehalftoseethatallisfairlyconducted:
　　attendedbyafewpersonalfriends。Aragged，swarthyfellowheis:withlongmattedhairhangingdownalloverhisface:andcovered，fromheadtofoot，withmostunquestionablygenuinedirt。
　　AllthebodyoftheroomisfilledwiththecommonestoftheNeapolitanpeople:andbetweenthemandtheplatform，guardingthestepsleadingtothelatter，isasmallbodyofsoldiers。
　　Thereissomedelayinthearrivalofthenecessarynumberofjudges；duringwhich，thebox，inwhichthenumbersarebeingplaced，isasourceofthedeepestinterest。Whentheboxisfull，theboywhoistodrawthenumbersoutofitbecomestheprominentfeatureoftheproceedings。Heisalreadydressedforhispart，inatightbrownHollandcoat，withonlyonetheleftsleevetoit，whichleaveshisrightarmbaredtotheshoulder，readyforplungingdownintothemysteriouschest。
　　Duringthehushandwhisperthatpervadetheroom，alleyesareturnedonthisyoungministeroffortune。Peoplebegintoinquirehisage，withaviewtothenextlottery；andthenumberofhisbrothersandsisters；andtheageofhisfatherandmother；andwhetherhehasanymolesorpimplesuponhim；andwhere，andhowmany；whenthearrivalofthelastjudgebutonealittleoldman，universallydreadedaspossessingtheEvilEyemakesaslightdiversion，andwouldoccasionagreaterone，butthatheisimmediatelydeposed，asasourceofinterest，bytheofficiatingpriest，whoadvancesgravelytohisplace，followedbyaverydirtylittleboy，carryinghissacredvestments，andapotofHolyWater。
　　Hereisthelastjudgecomeatlast，andnowhetakeshisplaceatthehorse-shoetable。
　　Thereisamurmurofirrepressibleagitation。Inthemidstofit，thepriestputshisheadintothesacredvestments，andpullsthesameoverhisshoulders。Thenhesaysasilentprayer；anddippingabrushintothepotofHolyWater，sprinklesitoverthebox-andovertheboy，andgivesthemadouble-barrelledblessing，whichtheboxandtheboyarebothhoistedonthetabletoreceive。Theboyremainingonthetable，theboxisnowcarriedroundthefrontoftheplatform，byanattendant，whoholdsitupandshakesitlustilyallthetime；seemingtosay，liketheconjurer，'Thereisnodeception，ladiesandgentlemen；keepyoureyesuponme，ifyouplease！'
　　Atlast，theboxissetbeforetheboy；andtheboy，firstholdinguphisnakedarmandopenhand，divesdownintotheholeitismadelikeaballot-boxandpullsoutanumber，whichisrolledup，roundsomethinghard，likeabonbon。Thishehandstothejudgenexthim，whounrollsalittlebit，andhandsittothePresident，nexttowhomhesits。ThePresidentunrollsit，veryslowly。TheCapoLazzaroneleansoverhisshoulder。ThePresidentholdsitup，unrolled，totheCapoLazzarone。TheCapoLazzarone，lookingatiteagerly，criesout，inashrill，loudvoice，'Sessantadue！'sixty-
　　two，expressingthetwouponhisfingers，ashecallsitout。
　　Alas！theCapoLazzaronehimselfhasnotstakedonsixty-two。Hisfaceisverylong，andhiseyesrollwildly。
　　Asithappenstobeafavouritenumber，however，itisprettywellreceived，whichisnotalwaysthecase。Theyarealldrawnwiththesameceremony，omittingtheblessing。Oneblessingisenoughforthewholemultiplication-table。Theonlynewincidentintheproceedings，isthegraduallydeepeningintensityofthechangeintheCapeLazzarone，whohas，evidently，speculatedtotheveryutmostextentofhismeans；andwho，whenheseesthelastnumber，andfindsthatitisnotoneofhis，claspshishands，andraiseshiseyestotheceilingbeforeproclaimingit，asthoughremonstrating，inasecretagony，withhispatronsaint，forhavingcommittedsogrossabreachofconfidence。IhopetheCapoLazzaronemaynotdeserthimforsomeothermemberoftheCalendar，butheseemstothreatenit。
　　Wherethewinnersmaybe，nobodyknows。Theycertainlyarenotpresent；thegeneraldisappointmentfillingonewithpityforthepoorpeople。Theylook:whenwestandaside，observingthem，intheirpassagethroughthecourt-yarddownbelow:asmiserableastheprisonersinthegaolitformsapartofthebuilding，whoarepeepingdownuponthem，frombetweentheirbars；or，asthefragmentsofhumanheadswhicharestilldanglinginchainsoutside，inmemoryofthegoodoldtimes，whentheirownerswerestrungupthere，forthepopularedification。
　　AwayfromNaplesinaglorioussunrise，bytheroadtoCapua，andthenonathreedays'journeyalongby-roads，thatwemaysee，ontheway，themonasteryofMonteCassino，whichisperchedonthesteepandloftyhillabovethelittletownofSanGermano，andislostonamistymorningintheclouds。
　　Somuchthebetter，forthedeepsoundingofitsbell，which，aswegowindingup，onmules，towardstheconvent，isheardmysteriouslyinthestillair，whilenothingisseenbutthegreymist，movingsolemnlyandslowly，likeafuneralprocession。Behold，atlengththeshadowypileofbuildingclosebeforeus:itsgreywallsandtowersdimlyseen，thoughsonearandsovast:andtherawvapourrollingthroughitscloistersheavily。
　　Therearetwoblackshadowswalkingtoandfrointhequadrangle，nearthestatuesofthePatronSaintandhissister；andhoppingonbehindthem，inandoutoftheoldarches，isaraven，croakinginanswertothebell，anduttering，atintervals，thepurestTuscan。
　　HowlikeaJesuithelooks！Thereneverwasaslyandstealthyfellowsoathomeasisthisraven，standingnowattherefectorydoor，withhisheadononeside，andpretendingtoglanceanotherway，whileheisscrutinizingthevisitorskeenly，andlisteningwithfixedattention。Whatadull-headedmonktheporterbecomesincomparison！
　　'Hespeakslikeus！'saystheporter:'quiteasplainly。'Quiteasplainly，Porter。Nothingcouldbemoreexpressivethanhisreceptionofthepeasantswhoareenteringthegatewithbasketsandburdens。Thereisarollinhiseye，andachuckleinhisthroat，whichshouldqualifyhimtobechosenSuperiorofanOrderofRavens。Heknowsallaboutit。'It'sallright，'hesays。'Weknowwhatweknow。Comealong，goodpeople。Gladtoseeyou！'
　　Howwasthisextraordinarystructureeverbuiltinsuchasituation，wherethelabourofconveyingthestone，andiron，andmarble，sogreataheight，musthavebeenprodigious?'Caw！'saystheraven，welcomingthepeasants。How，beingdespoiledbyplunder，fireandearthquake，hasitrisenfromitsruins，andbeenagainmadewhatwenowseeit，withitschurchsosumptuousandmagnificent?'Caw！'saystheraven，welcomingthepeasants。Thesepeoplehaveamiserableappearance，andasusualaredenselyignorant，andallbeg，whilethemonksarechauntinginthechapel。
　　'Caw！'saystheraven，'Cuckoo！'
　　Soweleavehim，chucklingandrollinghiseyeattheconventgate，andwindslowlydownagainthroughthecloud。Atlastemergingfromit，wecomeinsightofthevillagefarbelow，andtheflatgreencountryintersectedbyrivulets；whichispleasantandfreshtoseeaftertheobscurityandhazeoftheconvent-nodisrespecttotheraven，ortheholyfriars。
　　Awaywegoagain，bymuddyroads，andthroughthemostshatteredandtatteredofvillages，wherethereisnotawholewindowamongallthehouses，orawholegarmentamongallthepeasants，ortheleastappearanceofanythingtoeat，inanyofthewretchedhucksters'shops。Thewomenwearabrightredbodicelacedbeforeandbehind，awhiteskirt，andtheNeapolitanhead-dressofsquarefoldsoflinen，primitivelymeanttocarryloadson。Themenandchildrenwearanythingtheycanget。Thesoldiersareasdirtyandrapaciousasthedogs。Theinnsaresuchhobgoblinplaces，thattheyareinfinitelymoreattractiveandamusingthanthebesthotelsinParis。HereisonenearValmontonethatisValmontonetheround，walledtownonthemountopposite，whichisapproachedbyaquagmirealmostknee-deep。Thereisawildcolonnadebelow，andadarkyardfullofemptystablesandlofts，andagreatlongkitchenwithagreatlongbenchandagreatlongform，whereapartyoftravellers，withtwopriestsamongthem，arecrowdingroundthefirewhiletheirsupperiscooking。Abovestairs，isaroughbrickgallerytositin，withverylittlewindowswithverysmallpatchesofknottyglassinthem，andallthedoorsthatopenfromitadozenortwoofftheirhinges，andabareboardontresselsforatable，atwhichthirtypeoplemightdineeasily，andafireplacelargeenoughinitselfforabreakfast-parlour，where，asthefaggotsblazeandcrackle，theyilluminatetheugliestandgrimmestoffaces，drawnincharcoalonthewhitewashedchimney-
　　sidesbyprevioustravellers。Thereisaflaringcountrylamponthetable；and，hoveringaboutit，scratchingherthickblackhaircontinually，ayellowdwarfofawoman，whostandsontiptoetoarrangethehatchetknives，andtakesaflyingleaptolookintothewater-jug。Thebedsintheadjoiningroomsareoftheliveliestkind。Thereisnotasolitaryscrapoflooking-glassinthehouse，andthewashingapparatusisidenticalwiththecookingutensils。Buttheyellowdwarfsetsonthetableagoodflaskofexcellentwine，holdingaquartatleast；andproduces，amonghalf-
　　a-dozenotherdishes，two-thirdsofaroastedkid，smokinghot。
　　Sheisasgood-humoured，too，asdirty，whichissayingagreatdeal。Sohere'slonglifetoher，intheflaskofwine，andprosperitytotheestablishment。
　　Romegainedandleftbehind，andwithitthePilgrimswhoarenowrepairingtotheirownhomesagain-eachwithhisscallopshellandstaff，andsolicitingalmsfortheloveofGod-wecome，byafaircountry，totheFallsofTerni，wherethewholeVelinoriverdashes，headlong，fromarockyheight，amidstshiningsprayandrainbows。Perugia，stronglyfortifiedbyartandnature，onaloftyeminence，risingabruptlyfromtheplainwherepurplemountainsminglewiththedistantsky，isglowing，onitsmarket-
　　day，withradiantcolours。TheysetoffitssombrebutrichGothicbuildingsadmirably。Thepavementofitsmarket-placeisstrewnwithcountrygoods。Allalongthesteephillleadingfromthetown，underthetownwall，thereisanoisyfairofcalves，lambs，pigs，horses，mules，andoxen。Fowls，geese，andturkeys，fluttervigorouslyamongtheirveryhoofs；andbuyers，sellers，andspectators，clusteringeverywhere，blockuptheroadaswecomeshoutingdownuponthem。
　　Suddenly，thereisaringingsoundamongourhorses。Thedriverstopsthem。Sinkinginhissaddle，andcastinguphiseyestoHeaven，hedeliversthisapostrophe，'OhJoveOmnipotent！hereisahorsehaslosthisshoe！'
　　Notwithstandingthetremendousnatureofthisaccident，andtheutterlyforlornlookandgestureimpossibleinanyonebutanItalianVetturinowithwhichitisannounced，itisnotlonginbeingrepairedbyamortalFarrier，bywhoseassistancewereachCastiglionethesamenight，andArezzonextday。Massis，ofcourse，performinginitsfinecathedral，wherethesunshinesinamongtheclusteredpillars，throughrichstained-glasswindows:
　　halfrevealing，halfconcealingthekneelingfiguresonthepavement，andstrikingoutpathsofspottedlightinthelongaisles。
　　But，howmuchbeautyofanotherkindishere，when，onafairclearmorning，welook，fromthesummitofahill，onFlorence！Seewhereitliesbeforeusinasun-lightedvalley，brightwiththewindingArno，andshutinbyswellinghills；itsdomes，andtowers，andpalaces，risingfromtherichcountryinaglitteringheap，andshininginthesunlikegold！
　　MagnificentlysternandsombrearethestreetsofbeautifulFlorence；andthestrongoldpilesofbuildingmakesuchheapsofshadow，onthegroundandintheriver，thatthereisanotherandadifferentcityofrichformsandfancies，alwayslyingatourfeet。
　　Prodigiouspalaces，constructedfordefence，withsmalldistrustfulwindowsheavilybarred，andwallsofgreatthicknessformedofhugemassesofroughstone，frown，intheiroldsulkystate，oneverystreet。Inthemidstofthecity-inthePiazzaoftheGrandDuke，adornedwithbeautifulstatuesandtheFountainofNeptune-
　　risesthePalazzoVecchio，withitsenormousoverhangingbattlements，andtheGreatTowerthatwatchesoverthewholetown。
　　Initscourt-yard-worthyoftheCastleofOtrantoinitsponderousgloom-isamassivestaircasethattheheaviestwaggonandthestoutestteamofhorsesmightbedrivenup。Withinit，isaGreatSaloon，fadedandtarnishedinitsstatelydecorations，andmoulderingbygrains，butrecordingyet，inpicturesonitswalls，thetriumphsoftheMediciandthewarsoftheoldFlorentinepeople。Theprisonishardby，inanadjacentcourt-yardofthebuilding-afoulanddismalplace，wheresomemenareshutupclose，insmallcellslikeovens；andwhereotherslookthroughbarsandbeg；wheresomeareplayingdraughts，andsomearetalkingtotheirfriends，whosmoke，thewhile，topurifytheair；andsomearebuyingwineandfruitofwomen-vendors；andallaresqualid，dirty，andviletolookat。'Theyaremerryenough，Signore，'saysthejailer。'Theyareallblood-stainedhere，'headds，indicating，withhishand，three-fourthsofthewholebuilding。
　　Beforethehourisout，anoldman，eightyyearsofage，quarrellingoverabargainwithayounggirlofseventeen，stabsherdead，inthemarket-placefullofbrightflowers；andisbroughtinprisoner，toswellthenumber。
　　Amongthefouroldbridgesthatspantheriver，thePonteVecchio-
　　thatbridgewhichiscoveredwiththeshopsofJewellersandGoldsmiths-isamostenchantingfeatureinthescene。Thespaceofonehouse，inthecentre，beingleftopen，theviewbeyondisshownasinaframe；andthatpreciousglimpseofsky，andwater，andrichbuildings，shiningsoquietlyamongthehuddledroofsandgablesonthebridge，isexquisite。Aboveit，theGalleryoftheGrandDukecrossestheriver。ItwasbuilttoconnectthetwoGreatPalacesbyasecretpassage；andittakesitsjealouscourseamongthestreetsandhouses，withtruedespotism:goingwhereitlists，andspurningeveryobstacleaway，beforeit。
　　TheGrandDukehasaworthiersecretpassagethroughthestreets，inhisblackrobeandhood，asamemberoftheCompagniadellaMisericordia，whichbrotherhoodincludesallranksofmen。Ifanaccidenttakeplace，theirofficeis，toraisethesufferer，andbearhimtenderlytotheHospital。Ifafirebreakout，itisoneoftheirfunctionstorepairtothespot，andrendertheirassistanceandprotection。Itis，also，amongtheircommonestoffices，toattendandconsolethesick；andtheyneitherreceivemoney，noreat，nordrink，inanyhousetheyvisitforthispurpose。Thosewhoareondutyforthetime，areallcalledtogether，onamoment'snotice，bythetollingofthegreatbelloftheTower；anditissaidthattheGrandDukehasbeenseen，atthissound，torisefromhisseatattable，andquietlywithdrawtoattendthesummons。
　　InthisotherlargePiazza，whereanirregularkindofmarketisheld，andstoresofoldironandothersmallmerchandisearesetoutonstalls，orscatteredonthepavement，aregroupedtogether，theCathedralwithitsgreatDome，thebeautifulItalianGothicTowertheCampanile，andtheBaptisterywithitswroughtbronzedoors。Andhere，asmalluntroddensquareinthepavement，is'theStoneofDANTE，'wheresorunsthestoryhewasusedtobringhisstool，andsitincontemplation。Iwonderwasheever，inhisbitterexile，withheldfromcursingtheverystonesinthestreetsofFlorencetheungrateful，byanykindremembranceofthisoldmusing-place，anditsassociationwithgentlethoughtsoflittleBeatrice！
　　ThechapeloftheMedici，theGoodandBadAngels，ofFlorence；thechurchofSantaCrocewhereMichaelAngeloliesburied，andwhereeverystoneinthecloistersiseloquentongreatmen'sdeaths；
　　innumerablechurches，oftenmassesofunfinishedheavybrickworkexternally，butsolemnandserenewithin；arrestourlingeringsteps，instrollingthroughthecity。
　　Inkeepingwiththetombsamongthecloisters，istheMuseumofNaturalHistory，famousthroughtheworldforitspreparationsinwax；beginningwithmodelsofleaves，seeds，plants，inferioranimals；andgraduallyascending，throughseparateorgansofthehumanframe，uptothewholestructureofthatwonderfulcreation，exquisitelypresented，asinrecentdeath。Fewadmonitionsofourfrailmortalitycanbemoresolemnandmoresad，orstrikesohomeupontheheart，asthecounterfeitsofYouthandBeautythatarelyingthere，upontheirbeds，intheirlastsleep。
　　Beyondthewalls，thewholesweetValleyoftheArno，theconventatFiesole，theTowerofGalileo，BOCCACCIO'Shouse，oldvillasandretreats；innumerablespotsofinterest，allglowinginalandscapeofsurpassingbeautysteepedintherichestlight；arespreadbeforeus。Returningfromsomuchbrightness，howsolemnandhowgrandthestreetsagain，withtheirgreat，dark，mournfulpalaces，andmanylegends:notofsiege，andwar，andmight，andIronHandalone，butofthetriumphantgrowthofpeacefulArtsandSciences。
　　Whatlightisshedupontheworld，atthisday，fromamidsttheseruggedPalacesofFlorence！Here，opentoallcomers，intheirbeautifulandcalmretreats，theancientSculptorsareimmortal，sidebysidewithMichaelAngelo，Canova，Titian，Rembrandt，Raphael，Poets，Historians，Philosophers-thoseillustriousmenofhistory，besidewhomitscrownedheadsandharnessedwarriorsshowsopoorandsmall，andaresosoonforgotten。Here，theimperishablepartofnoblemindssurvives，placidandequal，whenstrongholdsofassaultanddefenceareoverthrown；whenthetyrannyofthemany，orthefew，orboth，isbutatale；whenPrideandPoweraresomuchcloistereddust。Thefirewithinthesternstreets，andamongthemassivePalacesandTowers，kindledbyraysfromHeaven，isstillburningbrightly，whentheflickeringofwarisextinguishedandthehouseholdfiresofgenerationshavedecayed；asthousandsuponthousandsoffaces，rigidwiththestrifeandpassionofthehour，havefadedoutoftheoldSquaresandpublichaunts，whilethenamelessFlorentineLady，preservedfromoblivionbyaPainter'shand，yetliveson，inenduringgraceandyouth。
　　LetuslookbackonFlorencewhilewemay，andwhenitsshiningDomeisseennomore，gotravellingthroughcheerfulTuscany，withabrightremembranceofit；forItalywillbethefairerfortherecollection。Thesummer-timebeingcome:andGenoa，andMilan，andtheLakeofComolyingfarbehindus:andwerestingatFaido，aSwissvillage，neartheawfulrocksandmountains，theeverlastingsnowsandroaringcataracts，oftheGreatSaintGothard:hearingtheItaliantongueforthelasttimeonthisjourney:letuspartfromItaly，withallitsmiseriesandwrongs，affectionately，inouradmirationofthebeauties，naturalandartificial，ofwhichitisfulltooverflowing，andinourtendernesstowardsapeople，naturallywell-disposed，andpatient，andsweet-tempered。Yearsofneglect，oppression，andmisrule，havebeenatwork，tochangetheirnatureandreducetheirspirit；
　　miserablejealousies，fomentedbypettyPrincestowhomunionwasdestruction，anddivisionstrength，havebeenacankerattheirrootofnationality，andhavebarbarizedtheirlanguage；butthegoodthatwasinthemever，isinthemyet，andanoblepeoplemaybe，oneday，raisedupfromtheseashes。Letusentertainthathope！AndletusnotrememberItalythelessregardfully，because，ineveryfragmentofherfallenTemples，andeverystoneofherdesertedpalacesandprisons，shehelpstoinculcatethelessonthatthewheelofTimeisrollingforanend，andthattheworldis，inallgreatessentials，better，gentler，moreforbearing，andmorehopeful，asitrolls！
　　End