AlthoughinsomerespectsmoretechnicalintheirsubjectsandstylethanDarwin’s“Journal,“thebooksherereprintedwillneverlosetheirvalueandinterestfortheoriginalityoftheobservationstheycontain。Manypartsofthemareadmirablyadaptedforgivinganinsightintoproblemsregardingthestructureandchangesoftheearth’ssurface,andinfacttheyformacharmingintroductiontophysicalgeologyandphysiographyintheirapplicationtospecialdomains。Thebooksthemselvescannotbeobtainedformanytimesthepriceofthepresentvolume,andboththegeneralreader,whodesirestoknowmoreofDarwin’swork,andthestudentofgeology,whonaturallywishestoknowhowamastermindreasonedonmostimportantgeologicalsubjects,willbegladoftheopportunityofpossessingtheminaconvenientandcheapform。
  Thethreeintroductions,whichmyfriendProfessorJuddhaskindlyfurnished,givecriticalandhistoricalinformationwhichmakesthiseditionofspecialvalue。
  G。T。B。
  TABLEOFCONTENTS。
  CRITICALINTRODUCTION。
  CHAPTERI——ONTHEELEVATIONOFTHEEASTERNCOASTOFSOUTHAMERICA。
  UpraisedshellsofLaPlata——BahiaBlanca,Sand-dunesandPumice-pebbles——
  Step-formedplainsofPatagonia,withupraisedshells——Terrace-boundedvalleyofSantaCruz,formerlyasea-strait——UpraisedshellsofTierradelFuego——Lengthandbreadthoftheelevatedarea——Equabilityofthemovements,asshownbythesimilarheightsoftheplains——Slownessoftheelevatoryprocess——Modeofformationofthestep-formedplains——Summary——
  GreatshingleformationofPatagonia;itsextent,origin,anddistribution——Formationofsea-cliffs。
  CHAPTERII——ONTHEELEVATIONOFTHEWESTERNCOASTOFSOUTHAMERICA。
  ChonosArchipelago——Chiloe,recentandgradualelevationof,traditionsoftheinhabitantsonthissubject——Concepcion,earthquakeandelevationof——
  VALPARAISO,greatelevationof,upraisedshells,earthormarineorigin,gradualriseofthelandwithinthehistoricalperiod——COQUIMBO,elevationof,inrecenttimes;terracesofmarineorigin,theirinclination,theirescarpmentsnothorizontal——Guasco,gravelterracesof——Copiapo——PERU——
  UpraisedshellsofCobija,Iquique,andArica——Lima,shell-bedsandsea-
  beachonSanLorenzo——Humanremains,fossilearthenware,earthquakedebacle,recentsubsidence——Onthedecayofupraisedshells——Generalsummary。
  CHAPTERIII——ONTHEPLAINSANDVALLEYSOFCHILE:——SALIFEROUSSUPERFICIAL
  DEPOSITS。
  Basin-likeplainsofChile;theirdrainage,theirmarineorigin——Marksofsea-actionontheeasternflanksoftheCordillera——Slopingterrace-likefringesofstratifiedshinglewithinthevalleysoftheCordillera;theirmarineorigin——BouldersinthevalleyofCachapual——HorizontalelevationoftheCordillera——Formationofvalleys——Bouldersmovedbyearthquake-
  waves——Salinesuperficialdeposits——BedofnitrateofsodaatIquique——
  Salineincrustations——Salt-lakesofLaPlataandPatagonia;purityofthesalt;itsorigin。
  CHAPTERIV——ONTHEFORMATIONSOFTHEPAMPAS。
  Mineralogicalconstitution——Microscopicalstructure——BuenosAyres,shellsembeddedintosca-rock——BuenosAyrestotheColorado——S。Ventana——BahiaBlanca;M。Hermoso,bonesandinfusoriaof;P。Alta,shells,bones,andinfusoriaof;co-existenceoftherecentshellsandextinctmammifers——
  BuenosAyrestoSt。Fe——SkeletonsofMastodon——Infusoria——Inferiormarinetertiarystrata,theirage——Horse’stooth。BANDAORIENTAL——
  SuperficialPampeanformation——Inferiortertiarystrata,variationof,connectedwithvolcanicaction;MacraucheniaPatachonicaatS。JulianinPatagonia,ageof,subsequenttolivingmolluscaandtotheerraticblockperiod。SUMMARY——AreaofPampeanformation——Theoriesoforigin——Sourceofsediment——Estuaryorigin——Contemporaneouswithexistingmollusca——
  Relationstounderlyingtertiarystrata。Ancientdepositofestuaryorigin——ElevationandsuccessivedepositionofthePampeanformation——
  Numberandstateoftheremainsofmammifers;theirhabitation,food,extinction,andrange——Conclusion——SupplementonthethicknessofthePampeanformation——LocalitiesinPampasatwhichmammiferousremainshavebeenfound。
  CHAPTERV——ONTHEOLDERTERTIARYFORMATIONSOFPATAGONIAANDCHILE。
  RioNegro——S。Josef——PortDesire,whitepumiceousmudstonewithinfusoria——PortS。Julian——SantaCruz,basalticlavaof——P。Gallegos——
  EasternTierradelFuego;leavesofextinctbeech-trees——SummaryonthePatagoniantertiaryformations——TertiaryformationsoftheWesternCoast——
  ChonosandChiloegroups,volcanicrocksof——Concepcion——Navidad——
  Coquimbo——Summary——Ageofthetertiaryformations——Linesofelevation——
  Silicifiedwood——ComparativerangesoftheextinctandlivingmolluscaontheWestCoastofS。America——Climateofthetertiaryperiod——OnthecausesoftheabsenceofrecentconchiferousdepositsonthecoastsofSouthAmerica——Onthecontemporaneousdepositionandpreservationofsedimentaryformations。
  CHAPTERVI——PLUTONICANDMETAMORPHICROCKS:——CLEAVAGEANDFOLIATION。
  Brazil,Bahia,gneisswithdisjointedmetamorphoseddikes——Strikeoffoliation——RiodeJaneiro,gneiss-granite,embeddedfragmentin,decompositionof——LaPlata,metamorphicandoldvolcanicrocksof——S。
  Ventana——ClaystoneporphyryformationofPatagonia;singularmetamorphicrocks;pseudo-dikes——FalklandIslands,palaeozoicfossilsof——TierradelFuego,clay-slateformation,cretaceousfossilsof;cleavageandfoliation;
  formofland——ChonosArchipelago,mica-schists,foliationdisturbedbygraniticaxis;dikes——Chiloe——Concepcion,dikes,successiveformationof——CentralandNorthernChile——Concludingremarksoncleavageandfoliation——Theircloseanalogyandsimilarorigin——Stratificationofmetamorphicschists——Foliationofintrusiverocks——Relationofcleavageandfoliationtothelinesoftensionduringmetamorphosis。
  CHAPTERVII——CENTRALCHILE:——STRUCTUREOFTHECORDILLERA。
  CentralChile——BasalformationsoftheCordillera——Originoftheporphyriticclay-stoneconglomerate——Andesite——Volcanicrocks——SectionoftheCordillerabythePeuquenesorPortilloPass——Greatgypseousformation——Peuquenesline;thicknessofstrata,fossilsof——Portilloline——Conglomerate,orthiticgranite,mica-schist,volcanicrocksof——
  ConcludingremarksonthedenudationandelevationofthePortilloline——
  SectionbytheCumbre,orUspallataPass——Porphyries——Gypseousstrata——
  SectionnearthePuentedelInca;fossilsof——Greatsubsidence——Intrusiveporphyries——PlainofUspallata——SectionoftheUspallatachain——
  Structureandnatureofthestrata——Silicifiedverticaltrees——Greatsubsidence——Graniticrocksofaxis——ConcludingremarksontheUspallatarange;originsubsequenttothatofthemainCordillera;twoperiodsofsubsidence;comparisonwiththePortillochain。
  CHAPTERVIII——NORTHERNCHILE——CONCLUSION。
  SectionfromIllapeltoCombarbala;gypseousformationwithsilicifiedwood——Panuncillo——Coquimbo;minesofArqueros;sectionupvalley;
  fossils——Guasco,fossilsof——Copiapo,sectionupvalley;LasAmolanas,silicifiedwood——Conglomerates,natureofformerland,fossils,thicknessofstrata,greatsubsidence——ValleyofDespoblado,fossils,tufaceousdeposit,complicateddislocationsof——Relationsbetweenancientorificesoferuptionandsubsequentaxesofinjection——Iquique,Peru,fossilsof,salt-deposits——Metalliferousveins——Summaryontheporphyriticconglomerateandgypseousformations——Greatsubsidencewithpartialelevationsduringthecretaceo-ooliticperiod——OntheelevationandstructureoftheCordillera——Recapitulationonthetertiaryseries——
  Relationbetweenmovementsofsubsidenceandvolcanicaction——Pampeanformation——Recentelevatorymovements——Long-continuedvolcanicactionintheCordillera——Conclusion。
  INDEX。
  GEOLOGICALOBSERVATIONSONSOUTHAMERICA
  BY
  CHARLESDARWIN。
  CRITICALINTRODUCTION。
  Oftheremarkable“trilogy“constitutedbyDarwin’swritingswhichdealwiththegeologyofthe“Beagle,“thememberwhichhasperhapsattractedleastattention,uptothepresenttimeisthatwhichtreatsofthegeologyofSouthAmerica。TheactualwritingofthisbookappearstohaveoccupiedDarwinashorterperiodthaneitheroftheothervolumesoftheseries;hisdiaryrecordsthattheworkwasaccomplishedwithintenmonths,namely,betweenJuly1844andApril1845;butthebookwasnotactuallyissuedtilllateintheyearfollowing,theprefacebearingthedate“September1846。”
  Altogether,asDarwininformsusinhis“Autobiography,“thegeologicalbooks“consumedfourandahalfyears’steadywork,“mostoftheremainderofthetenyearsthatelapsedbetweenthereturnofthe“Beagle,“andthecompletionofhisgeologicalbooksbeing,itissadtorelate,“lostthroughillness!”
  Concerningthe“GeologicalObservationsonSouthAmerica,“DarwinwrotetohisfriendLyell,asfollows:——“Myvolumewillbeabout240pages,dreadfullydull,yetmuchcondensed。Ithinkwheneveryouhavetimetolookthroughit,youwillthinkthecollectionoffactsontheelevationofthelandandontheformationofterracesprettygood。”
  “Muchcondensed“istheverdictthateveryonemustendorse,onrisingfromtheperusalofthisremarkablebook;butbynomeans“dull。”ThethreeandahalfyearsfromApril1832toSeptember1835,werespentbyDarwininSouthAmerica,andweredevotedtocontinuousscientificwork;theproblemshedealtwithwereeitherpurelygeologicalorthosewhichconstitutetheborderlandbetweenthegeologicalandbiologicalsciences。Itisimpossibletoreadthejournalwhichhekeptduringthistimewithoutbeingimpressedbytheconvictionthatitcontainsallthegermsofthoughtwhichafterwardsdevelopedintothe“OriginofSpecies。”ButitisequallyevidentthatafterhisreturntoEngland,biologicalspeculationsgraduallybegantoexerciseamoreexclusiveswayoverDarwin’smind,andtendedtodispossessgeology,whichduringtheactualperiodofthevoyagecertainlyengrossedmostofhistimeandattention。ThewonderfulseriesofobservationsmadeduringthosethreeandahalfyearsinSouthAmericacouldscarcelybedonejusticeto,inthe240pagesdevotedtotheirexposition。ThatheexecutedtheworkofpreparingthebookonSouthAmericainsomewhatthemannerofatask,isshownbymanyreferencesinhisletters。WritingtoSirJosephHookerin1845,hesays,“IhopethisnextsummertofinishmySouthAmericanGeology,thentogetoutalittleZoology,andHURRAHFORMYSPECIESWORK!”
  Itwouldseemthatthefeelingofdisappointment,whichDarwinsooftenexperiencedincomparingabookwhencompleted,withtheobservationsandspeculationswhichhadinspiredit,wasmorekeenlyfeltinthecaseofhisvolumeonSouthAmericathananyother。Toonefriendhewrites,“Ihaveoflatebeenslavingextrahard,tothegreatdiscomfitureofwretcheddigestiveorgans,atSouthAmerica,andthankallthefates,Ihavedonethree-fourthsofit。WritingplainEnglishgrowswithmemoreandmoredifficult,andneverattainable。Asforyourpretendingthatyouwillreadanythingsodullasmypuregeologicaldescriptions,laynotsuchaflatteringunctiononmysoul,foritisincredible。”Toanotherfriendhewrites,“Youdonotknowwhatyouthreatenwhenyouproposetoreadit——itispurelygeological。Isaidtomybrother,’Youwillofcoursereadit,’
  andhisanswerwas,’Uponmylife,Iwouldsoonerevenbuyit。’“
  Inspiteofthesedisparagingremarks,however,wearestronglyinclinedtobelievethatthisbook,despisedbyitsauthor,andneglectedbyhiscontemporaries,willintheendbeadmittedtobeoneofDarwin’schieftitlestofame。Itis,perhaps,anunfortunatecircumstancethatthegreatsuccesswhichheattainedinbiologybythepublicationofthe“OriginofSpecies“has,tosomeextent,overshadowedthefactthatDarwin’sclaimsasageologist,areoftheveryhighestorder。Itisnottoomuchtosaythat,hadDarwinnotbeenageologist,the“OriginofSpecies“couldneverhavebeenwrittenbyhim。Butapartfromthosegeologicalquestions,whichhaveanimportantbearingonbiologicalthoughtandspeculation,suchastheproofsofimperfectioninthegeologicalrecord,therelationsofthelatertertiaryfaunastotherecentonesinthesameareas,andtheapparentinterminglingoftypesbelongingtodistantgeologicalepochs,whenwestudythepalaeontologyofremotedistricts,——thereareotherpurelygeologicalproblems,uponwhichthecontributionsmadebyDarwinareoftheveryhighestvalue。IbelievethattheverdictofthehistoriansofsciencewillbethatifDarwinhadnottakenaforemostplaceamongthebiologistsofthiscentury,hispositionasageologistwouldhavebeenanalmostequallycommandingone。
  ButinthecaseofDarwin’sprincipalgeologicalwork——thatrelatingtotheoriginofthecrystallineschists,——geologistswerenotatthetimepreparedtoreceivehisrevolutionaryteachings。Theinfluenceofpowerfulauthoritywaslongexercised,indeed,tostiflehisteaching,andonlynow,whenthisunfortunateoppositionhasdisappeared,isthetruenatureandimportanceofDarwin’spurelygeologicalworkbeginningtoberecognised。
  Thetwofirstchaptersofthe“GeologicalObservationsonSouthAmerica,“
  dealwiththeproofswhichexistofgreat,butfrequentlyinterrupted,movementsofelevationduringveryrecentgeologicaltimes。Inconnectionwiththissubject,Darwin’sparticularattentionwasdirectedtotherelationsbetweenthegreatearthquakesofSouthAmerica——ofsomeofwhichhehadimpressiveexperience——andthepermanentchangesofelevationwhichweretakingplace。Hewasmuchstruckbytherapiditywithwhichtheevidenceofsuchgreatearthmovementsisfrequentlyobliterated;andespeciallywiththeremarkablewayinwhichtheactionofrain-water,percolatingthroughdepositsontheearth’ssurface,removesalltracesofshellsandothercalcareousorganisms。Itwastheseconsiderationswhichweretheparentsofthegeneralisationthatapalaeontologicalrecordcanonlybepreservedduringthoseperiodsinwhichlong-continuedslowsubsidenceisgoingon。Thisinturn,ledtothestillwiderandmoresuggestiveconclusionthatthegeologicalrecordasawholeis,andnevercanbemorethan,aseriesofmoreorlessisolatedfragments。Therecognitionofthisimportantfactconstitutesthekeystonetoanytheoryofevolutionwhichseekstofindabasisintheactualstudyofthetypesoflifethathaveformerlyinhabitedourglobe。
  Inhisthirdchapter,Darwingivesanumberofinterestingfacts,collectedduringhisvisitstotheplainsandvalleysofChili,whichbearonthequestionoftheoriginofsaliferousdeposits——theaccumulationofsalt,gypsum,andnitrateofsoda。Thisisaproblemthathasexcitedmuchdiscussionamonggeologists,andwhich,inspiteofmanyvaluableobservations,stillremainstoagreatextentveryobscure。AmongtheimportantconsiderationsinsisteduponbyDarwinisthatrelatingtotheabsenceofmarineshellsinbedsassociatedwithsuchdeposits。Hejustlyarguesthatifthestratawereformedinshallowwaters,andthenexposedbyupheavaltosubaerialaction,allshellsandothercalcareousorganismswouldberemovedbysolution。
  FollowingLyell’smethod,Darwinproceedsfromthestudyofdepositsnowbeingaccumulatedontheearth’ssurface,tothosewhichhavebeenformedduringthemorerecentperiodsofthegeologicalhistory。
  HisaccountofthegreatPampeanformation,withitswonderfulmammalianremains——Mastodon,Toxodon,Scelidotherium,Macrauchenia,Megatherium,Megalonyx,Mylodon,andGlyptodon——thisfullofinterest。HisdiscoveryoftheremainsofatrueEquusaffordedaremarkableconfirmationofthefact——
  alreadymadeoutinNorthAmerica——thatspeciesofhorsehadexistedandbecomeextinctintheNewWorld,beforetheirintroductionbytheSpaniardsinthesixteenthcentury。FullyperceivingtheimportanceofthemicroscopeinstudyingthenatureandoriginofsuchdepositsasthoseofthePampas,DarwinsubmittedmanyofhisspecimensbothtoDr。Carpenterinthiscountry,andtoProfessorEhrenberginBerlin。Manyveryimportantnotesonthemicroscopicorganismscontainedintheformationwillbefoundscatteredthroughthechapter。
  Darwin’sstudyoftheoldertertiaryformations,withtheirabundantshells,andtheirrelicsofvegetablelifeburiedundergreatsheetsofbasalt,ledhimtoconsidercarefullythequestionofclimateduringtheseearlierperiods。Inoppositiontoprevalentviewsonthissubject,Darwinpointsoutthathisobservationsareopposedtotheconclusionthatahighertemperatureprevaileduniversallyovertheglobeduringearlygeologicalperiods。Hearguesthat“thecauseswhichgavetotheoldertertiaryproductionsofthequitetemperatezonesofEuropeatropicalcharacter,WEREOFALOCALCHARACTERANDDIDNOTAFFECTTHEWHOLEGLOBE。”
  Inthis,asinmanysimilarinstances,weseethebeneficialinfluenceofextensivetravelinfreeingDarwin’smindfromprevailingprejudices。Itwasthiswideningofexperiencewhichrenderedhimsoespeciallyqualifiedtodealwiththegreatproblemoftheoriginofspecies,andindoingsotoemancipatehimselffromideaswhichwerereceivedwithunquestioningfaithbygeologistswhosestudieshadbeencircumscribedwithinthelimitsofWesternEurope。
  IntheCordillerasofNorthernandCentralChili,Darwin,whenstudyingstillolderformations,clearlyrecognisedthattheycontainanadmixtureoftheformsoflife,whichinEuropearedistinctiveoftheCretaceousandJurassicperiodsrespectively。Hewasthusledtoconcludethattheclassificationofgeologicalperiods,whichfairlywellexpressesthefactsthathadbeendiscoveredintheareaswherethesciencewasfirststudied,isnolongercapableofbeingappliedwhenwecometothestudyofwidelydistantregions。Thisimportantconclusionleduptothefurthergeneralisationthateachgreatgeologicalperiodhasexhibitedageographicaldistributionoftheformsofanimalandvegetablelife,comparabletothatwhichprevailsintheexistingfaunaandflora。Tothosewhoarefamiliarwiththeextenttowhichthedoctrineofuniversalformationshasaffectedgeologicalthoughtandspeculation,bothlongbeforeandsincethetimethatDarwinwrote,theimportanceofthisnewstandpointtowhichhewasabletoattainwillbesufficientlyapparent。
  LiketheideaoftheextremeimperfectionoftheGeologicalRecord,thedoctrineofLOCALgeologicalformationsisfoundpermeatingandmouldingallthepalaeontologicalreasoningsofhisgreatwork。
  InoneofDarwin’sletters,writtenwhilehewasinSouthAmerica,thereisapassagewehavealreadyquoted,inwhichheexpresseshisinabilitytodecidebetweentherivalclaimsuponhisattentionof“theoldcrystallinegroupofrocks,“and“thesofterfossiliferousbeds“respectively。Thesixthchapteroftheworkbeforeus,entitled“PlutonicandMetamorphicRocks——CleavageandFoliation,“containsabriefsummaryofaseriesofobservationsandreasoningsuponthesecrystallinerocks,whichare,webelieve,calculatedtoeffectarevolutioningeologicalscience,and——
  thoughtheirvalueandimportancehavelongbeenoverlooked——arelikelytoentitleDarwininthefuturetoapositionamonggeologists,scarcely,ifatall,inferiortothatwhichhealreadyoccupiesamongbiologists。
  Darwin’sstudiesofthegreatrock-massesoftheAndesconvincedhimofthecloserelationsbetweenthegraniticorPlutonicrocks,andthosewhichwereundoubtedlypouredforthaslavas。Uponhisreturn,hesettowork,withtheaidofProfessorMiller,tomakeacarefulstudyofthemineralscomposingthegranitesandthosewhichoccurinthelavas,andhewasabletoshowthatinallessentialrespectstheyareidentical。Hewasfurtherabletoprovethatthereisacompletegradationbetweenthehighlycrystallineorgraniticrock-masses,andthosecontainingmoreorlessglassymatterbetweentheircrystals,whichconstituteordinarylavas。Theimportanceofthisconclusionwillberealisedwhenwerememberthatitwasthenthecommoncreedofgeologists——andstillcontinuestobesoontheContinent——thatallhighlycrystallinerocksareofgreatgeologicalantiquity,andthattheigneousejectionswhichhavetakenplacesincethebeginningofthetertiaryperiodsdifferessentially,intheircomposition,theirstructure,andtheirmodeofoccurrence,fromthosewhichhavemadetheirappearanceatearlierperiodsoftheworld’shistory。
  VerycompletelyhavetheconclusionsofDarwinuponthesesubjectsbeenjustifiedbyrecentresearches。InEngland,theUnitedStates,andItaly,examplesofthegradualpassageofrocksoftrulygraniticstructureintoordinarylavashavebeendescribed,andtherealityofthetransitionhasbeendemonstratedbythemostcarefulstudieswiththemicroscope。RecentresearchescarriedoninSouthAmericabyProfessorStelzner,havealsoshowntheexistenceofaclassofhighlycrystallinerocks——the“Andengranites“——whichcombineinthemselvesmanyofthecharacteristicswhichwereoncethoughttobedistinctiveoftheso-calledPlutonicandvolcanicrocks。Noonefamiliarwithrecentgeologicalliterature——eveninGermanyandFrance,wheretheoldviewsconcerningthedistinctionofigneousproductsofdifferentageshavebeenmoststoutlymaintained——canfailtorecognisethefactthattheprinciplescontendedforbyDarwinbidfairatnodistantperiodtowinuniversalacceptanceamonggeologistsallovertheglobe。
  StillmoreimportantaretheconclusionsatwhichDarwinarrivedwithrespecttotheoriginoftheschistsandgneisseswhichcoversolargeanareainSouthAmerica。
  Carefullynoting,bytheaidofhiscompassandclinometer,ateverypointwhichhevisited,thedirectionandamountofinclinationoftheparalleldivisionsintheserocks,hewasledtoaveryimportantgeneralisation——
  namely,thatoververywideareasthedirectionstrikeoftheplanesofcleavageinslates,andoffoliationinschistsandgneisses,remainedconstant,thoughtheamountoftheirinclinationdipoftenvariedwithinwidelimits。Furtherthanthisitappearedthattherewasalwaysaclosecorrespondencebetweenthestrikeofthecleavageandfoliationandthedirectionofthegreataxesalongwhichelevationhadtakenplaceinthedistrict。
  InTierradelFuego,Darwinfoundstrikingevidencethatthecleavageintersectinggreatmassesofslate-rockswasquiteindependentoftheiroriginalstratification,andcouldoften,indeed,beseencuttingacrossitatrightangles。HewasalsoabletoverifySedgwick’sobservationthat,insomeslates,glossysurfacesontheplanesofcleavagearisefromthedevelopmentofnewminerals,chlorite,epidoteormica,andthatinthiswayacompletegraduationfromslatestotrueschistsmaybetraced。
  Darwinfurthershowedthatinhighlyschistoserocks,thefoliabendaroundandencircleanyforeignbodiesinthemass,andthatinsomecasestheyexhibitthemosttortuousformsandcomplicatedpuckerings。Heclearlysawthatinallcasestheforcesbywhichthesestrikingphenomenamusthavebeenproducedwerepersistentoverwideareas,andwereconnectedwiththegreatmovementsbywhichtherockshadbeenupheavedandfolded。
  Thatthedistinctfoliaofquartz,feldspar,mica,andothermineralscomposingthemetamorphicschistscouldnothavebeenseparatelydepositedassedimentwasstronglyinsisteduponbyDarwin;andindoingsoheopposedtheviewgenerallyprevalentamonggeologistsatthattime。Hewasthusdriventotheconclusionthatfoliation,likecleavage,isnotanoriginal,butasuperinducedstructureinrock-masses,andthatitistheresultofre-crystallisation,underthecontrollinginfluenceofgreatpressure,ofthematerialsofwhichtherockwascomposed。
  InstudyingthelavasofAscension,aswehavealreadyseen,Darwinwasledtorecognisethecircumstancethat,whenigneousrocksaresubjectedtogreatdifferentialmovementsduringtheperiodoftheirconsolidation,theyacquireafoliatedstructure,closelyanalogoustothatofthecrystallineschists。Likehispredecessorinthisfieldofinquiry,Mr。PoulettScrope,CharlesDarwinseemstohavebeengreatlyimpressedbythesefacts,andhearguedfromthemthattherocksexhibitingthefoliatedstructuremusthavebeeninastateofplasticity,likethatofacoolingmassoflava。AtthattimethesuggestiveexperimentsofTresca,Daubree,andothers,showingthatsolidmassesundertheinfluenceofenormouspressurebecomeactuallyplastic,hadnotbeenpublished。HadDarwinbeenawareofthesefactshewouldhaveseenthatitwasnotnecessarytoassumeastateofimperfectsolidityinrock-massesinordertoaccountfortheirhavingyieldedtopressureandtension,and,indoingso,acquiringthenewcharacterswhichdistinguishthecrystallineschists。
  TheviewsputforwardbyDarwinontheoriginofthecrystallineschistsfoundanableadvocateinMr。DanielSharpe,whoin1852and1854publishedtwopapers,dealingwiththegeologyoftheScottishHighlandsandoftheAlpsrespectively,inwhichheshowedthattheprinciplesarrivedatbyDarwinwhenstudyingtheSouthAmericanrocksaffordacompleteexplanationofthestructureofthetwodistrictsinquestion。
  But,ontheotherhand,theconclusionsofDarwinandSharpeweremetwiththestrongestoppositionbySirRoderickMurchisonandDr。A。Geikie,whoin1861readapaperbeforetheGeologicalSociety“OntheCoincidencebetweenStratificationandFoliationintheCrystallineRocksoftheScottishHighlands,“inwhichtheyinsistedthattheirobservationsinScotlandtendedtoentirelydisprovetheconclusionsofDarwinthatfoliationinrocksisasecondarystructure,andentirelyindependentoftheoriginalstratificationoftherock-masses。
  Nowitisamostsignificantcircumstancethat,nosoonerdidtheofficersoftheGeologicalSurveycommencethecarefulanddetailedstudyoftheScottishHighlandsthantheyfoundthemselvescompelledtomakeaformalretractionoftheviewswhichhadbeenputforwardbyMurchisonandGeikieinoppositiontotheconclusionsofDarwin。TheofficersoftheGeologicalSurveyhavecompletelyabandonedtheviewthatthefoliationoftheHighlandrockshasbeendeterminedbytheiroriginalstratification,andadmitthatthestructureistheresultoftheprofoundmovementstowhichtherockshavebeensubjected。Thesameconclusionshaverecentlybeensupportedbyobservationsmadeinmanydifferentdistricts——amongwhichwemayespeciallyrefertothoseofDr。H。ReuschinNorway,andthoseofDr。
  J。LehmanninSaxony。AtthepresenttimetheargumentssoclearlystatedbyDarwinintheworkbeforeus,have,afterenduringoppositionorneglectforawholegeneration,begunto“triumphallalongtheline,“andwemaylookforwardconfidentlytothenearfuture,whenhisclaimtoberegardedasoneofthegreatestofgeologicaldiscoverersshallbefullyvindicated。
  JOHNW。JUDD。
  CHAPTERI。ONTHEELEVATIONOFTHEEASTERNCOASTOFSOUTHAMERICA。
  UpraisedshellsofLaPlata。
  BahiaBlanca,Sand-dunesandPumice-pebbles。
  Step-formedplainsofPatagonia,withupraisedShells。
  Terrace-boundedValleyofSantaCruz,formerlyaSea-strait。
  UpraisedshellsofTierradelFuego。
  Lengthandbreadthoftheelevatedarea。
  Equabilityofthemovements,asshownbythesimilarheightsoftheplains。
  Slownessoftheelevatoryprocess。
  Modeofformationofthestep-formedplains。
  Summary。
  GreatShingleFormationofPatagonia;itsextent,origin,anddistribution。
  Formationofsea-cliffs。
  InthefollowingVolume,whichtreatsofthegeologyofSouthAmerica,andalmostexclusivelyofthepartssouthwardoftheTropicofCapricorn,I
  havearrangedthechaptersaccordingtotheageofthedeposits,occasionallydepartingfromthisorder,forthesakeofgeographicalsimplicity。
  Theelevationofthelandwithintherecentperiod,andthemodificationsofitssurfacethroughtheactionoftheseatowhichsubjectsIpaidparticularattentionwillbefirstdiscussed;Iwillthenpassontothetertiarydeposits,andafterwardstotheolderrocks。Onlythosedistrictsandsectionswillbedescribedindetailwhichappeartometodeservesomeparticularattention;andIwill,attheendofeachchapter,giveasummaryoftheresults。Wewillcommencewiththeproofsoftheupheavaloftheeasterncoastofthecontinent,fromtheRioPlatasouthward;and,intheSecondChapter,followupthesamesubjectalongtheshoresofChileandPeru。
  OnthenorthernbankofthegreatestuaryoftheRioPlata,nearMaldonado,Ifoundattheheadofalake,sometimesbrackishbutgenerallycontainingfreshwater,abedofmuddyclay,sixfeetinthickness,withnumerousshellsofspeciesstillexistinginthePlata,namely,theAzaralabiata,d’Orbigny,fragmentsofMytiluseduliformis,d’Orbigny,PaludestrinaIsabellei,d’Orbigny,andtheSolenCaribaeus,Lam。whichlastwasembeddedverticallyinthepositioninwhichithadlived。Theseshellslieattheheightofonlytwofeetabovethelake,norwouldtheyhavebeenworthmentioning,exceptinconnectionwithanalogousfacts。
  AtMonteVideo,Inoticednearthetown,andalongthebaseofthemount,bedsofalivingMytilus,raisedsomefeetabovethesurfaceofthePlata:
  inasimilarbed,ataheightfromthirteentosixteenfeet,M。Isabellecollectedeightspecies,which,accordingtoM。d’Orbigny,nowliveatthemouthoftheestuary。“Voyagedansl’AmeriqueMerid。:Part。Geolog。”page21。AtColoniadelSacramiento,furtherwestward,Iobservedattheheightofaboutfifteenfeetabovetheriver,thereofquitefreshwater,asmallbedofthesameMytilus,whichlivesinbrackishwateratMonteVideo。NearthemouthofUruguay,andforatleastthirty-fivemilesnorthward,thereareatintervalslargesandytracts,extendingseveralmilesfromthebanksoftheriver,butnotraisedmuchaboveitslevel,aboundingwithsmallbivalves,whichoccurinsuchnumbersthatattheAgraciadotheyaresiftedandburntforlime。ThosewhichIexaminedneartheA。S。Juanweremuchworn:theyconsistedofMactraIsabellei,d’Orbigny,mingledwithfewofVenussinuosa,Lam。bothinhabiting,asIaminformedbyM。d’Orbigny,brackishwateratthemouthofthePlata,nearlyorquiteassaltastheopensea。Theloosesand,inwhichtheseshellsarepacked,isheapedintolow,straight,longlinesofdunes,likethoseleftbytheseaattheheadofmanybays。M。d’Orbignyhasdescribedananalogousphenomenononagreaterscale,nearSanPedroontheriverParana,wherehefoundwidelyextendedbedsandhillocksofsand,withvastnumbersoftheAzaralabiata,attheheightofnearly100feetEnglishabovethesurfaceofthatriver。
  Ibidpage43。TheAzarainhabitsbrackishwater,andisnotknowntobefoundnearertoSanPedrothanBuenosAyres,distantaboveahundredmilesinastraightline。NearerBuenosAyres,ontheroadfromthatplacetoSanIsidro,thereareextensivebeds,asIaminformedbySirWoodbineParish,oftheAzaralabiata,lyingataboutfortyfeetabovetheleveloftheriver,anddistantbetweentwoandthreemilesfromit。“BuenosAyres“
  etc。bySirWoodbineParishpage168。Theseshellsarealwaysfoundonthehighestbanksinthedistrict:theyareembeddedinastratifiedearthymass,preciselylikethatofthegreatPampeandeposithereaftertobedescribed。Inonecollectionoftheseshells,thereweresomevalvesoftheVenussinuosa,Lam。thesamespeciesfoundwiththeMactraonthebanksoftheUruguay。SouthofBuenosAyres,nearEnsenada,thereareotherbedsoftheAzara,someofwhichseemtohavebeenembeddedinyellowish,calcareous,semi-crystallinematter;andSirW。ParishhasgivenmefromthebanksoftheArroyodelTristan,situatedinthissameneighbourhood,atthedistanceofaboutaleaguefromthePlata,aspecimenofapale-
  reddish,calcereo-argillaceousstonepreciselylikepartsofthePampeandeposittheimportanceofwhichfactwillbereferredtoinasucceedingchapter,aboundingwithshellsofanAzara,muchworn,butwhichingeneralformandappearancecloselyresemble,andareprobablyidenticalwith,theA。labiata。Besidestheseshells,cellular,highlycrystallinerock,formedofthecastsofsmallbivalves,isfoundnearEnsenada;andlikewisebedsofsea-shells,whichfromtheirappearanceappeartohavelainonthesurface。SirW。Parishhasgivenmesomeoftheseshells,andM。d’Orbignypronouncesthemtobe:——
  1。Buccinanopsglobulosum,d’Orbigny。
  2。Olivancillariaauricularia,d’Orbigny。
  3。Venusflexuosa,Lam。
  4。Cytheraeaimperfect。
  5。MactraIsabellei,d’Orbigny。
  6。Ostreapulchella,d’Orbigny。
  Besidesthese,SirW。Parishprocured“BuenosAyres“etc。bySirW。Parishpage168。asnamedbyMr。G。B。Sowerbythefollowingshells:——
  7。Volutacolocynthis。
  8。Volutaangulata。
  9。Buccinumnotspec。?。
  Allthesespecieswith,perhaps,theexceptionofthelastarerecent,andliveontheSouthAmericancoast。Theseshell-bedsextendfromoneleaguetosixleaguesfromthePlata,andmustliemanyfeetaboveitslevel。Iheard,also,ofbedsofshellsontheSomborombon,andontheRioSalado,atwhichlatterplace,asM。d’Orbignyinformsme,theMactraIsabelleiandVenussinuosaarefound。
  DuringtheelevationoftheProvincesofLaPlata,thewatersoftheancientestuaryhavebutlittleaffectedwiththeexceptionofthesand-
  hillsonthebanksoftheParanaandUruguaytheoutlineoftheland。M。
  Parchappe,however,hasdescribedgroupsofsanddunesscatteredoverthewideextentofthePampassouthwardofBuenosAyresD’Orbigny“VoyageGeolog。”page44。,whichM。d’Orbignyattributeswithmuchprobabilitytotheactionofthesea,beforetheplainswereraisedaboveitslevel。
  BeforeproceedingtothedistrictssouthwardofLaPlata,itmaybeworthwhilejusttostate,thatthereissomeevidencethatthecoastofBrazilhasparticipatedinasmallamountofelevation。Mr。Burchellinformsme,thathecollectedatSantoslatitude24degreesS。oyster-shells,apparentlyrecent,somemilesfromtheshore,andquiteabovethetidalaction。WestwardofRiodeJaneiro,CaptainElliotisassertedseeHarlan“Med。andPhys。Res。”page35andDr。Meigsin“TransactionsoftheAmericanPhilosophicalSociety“,tohavefoundhumanbones,encrustedwithsea-shells,betweenfifteenandtwentyfeetabovethelevelofthesea。
  BetweenRiodeJaneiroandCapeFrioIcrossedsandytractsaboundingwithsea-shells,atadistanceofaleaguefromthecoast;butwhetherthesetractshavebeenformedbyupheaval,orthroughthemereaccumulationofdriftsand,Iamnotpreparedtoassert。AtBahialatitude13degreesS。,insomepartsnearthecoast,therearetracesofsea-actionattheheightofabouttwentyfeetaboveitspresentlevel;therearealso,inmanyparts,remnantsofbedsofsandstoneandconglomeratewithnumerousrecentshells,raisedalittleabovethesea-level。Imayadd,thatattheheadofBahiaBaythereisaformation,aboutfortyfeetinthickness,containingtertiaryshellsapparentlyoffresh-waterorigin,nowwashedbytheseaandencrustedwithBalini;thisappearstoindicateasmallamountofsubsidencesubsequenttoitsdeposition。AtPernambucolatitude8degreesS。,inthealluvialortertiarycliffs,surroundingthelowlandonwhichthecitystands,Ilookedinvainfororganicremains,orotherevidenceofchangesinlevel。
  SOUTHWARDOFTHEPLATA。
  ThecoastasfarasBahiaBlancainlatitude39degreesS。isformedeitherofahorizontalrangeofcliffs,orofimmenseaccumulationsofsand-dunes。WithinBahiaBlanca,asmallpieceoftableland,abouttwentyfeetabovehigh-watermark,calledPuntaAlta,isformedofstrataofcementedgravelandofredearthymud,aboundingwithshellswithotherslyinglooseonthesurface,andthebonesofextinctmammifers。Theseshells,twentyinnumber,togetherwithaBalanusandtwocorals,areallrecentspecies,stillinhabitingtheneighbouringseas。TheywillbeenumeratedintheFourthChapter,whendescribingthePampeanformation;
  fiveofthemareidenticalwiththeupraisedonesfromnearBuenosAyres。
  ThenorthernshoreofBahiaBlancais,inmainpart,formedofimmensesand-dunes,restingongravelwithrecentshells,andranginginlinesparalleltotheshore。Theserangesareseparatedfromeachotherbyflatspaces,composedofstiffimpureredclay,inwhich,atthedistanceofabouttwomilesfromthecoast,Ifoundbydiggingafewminutefragmentsofsea-shells。Thesand-dunesextendseveralmilesinland,andstandonaplain,whichslopesuptoaheightofbetweenonehundredandtwohundredfeet。Numerous,small,well-roundedpebblesofpumiceliescatteredbothontheplainandsand-hillocks:atMonteHermoso,ontheflatsummitofacliff,Ifoundmanyofthemataheightof120feetangularmeasurement
  abovethelevelofthesea。Thesepumicepebbles,nodoubt,wereoriginallybroughtdownfromtheCordillerabytheriverswhichcrossthecontinent,inthesamewayastheriverNegroancientlybroughtdown,andstillbringsdown,pumice,andastheriverChupatbringsdownscoriae:whenoncedeliveredatthemouthofariver,theywouldnaturallyhavetravelledalongthecoasts,andbeencastupduringtheelevationoftheland,atdifferentheights。Theoriginoftheargillaceousflats,whichseparatetheparallelrangesofsand-dunes,seemsduetothetidesherehavingatendencyasIbelievetheyhaveonmostshoal,protectedcoaststothrowupabarparalleltotheshore,andatsomedistancefromit;thisbargraduallybecomeslarger,affordingabasefortheaccumulationofsand-
  dunes,andtheshallowspacewithinthenbecomessiltedupwithmud。Therepetitionofthisprocess,withoutanyelevationoftheland,wouldformalevelplaintraversedbyparallellinesofsand-hillocks;duringaslowelevationoftheland,thehillockswouldrestonagentlyinclinedsurface,likethatonthenorthernshoreofBahiaBlanca。Ididnotobserveanyshellsinthisneighbourhoodatagreaterheightthantwentyfeet;andthereforetheageofthesea-driftedpebblesofpumice,nowstandingattheheightof120feet,mustremainuncertain。
  ThemainplainsurroundingBahiaBlancaIestimatedatfromtwohundredtothreehundredfeet;itinsensiblyrisestowardsthedistantSierraVentana。
  Thereareinthisneighbourhoodsomeotherandlowerplains,buttheydonotabutoneatthefootoftheother,inthemannerhereaftertobedescribed,socharacteristicofPatagonia。Theplainonwhichthesettlementstandsiscrossedbymanylowsand-dunes,aboundingwiththeminuteshellsofthePaludestrinaaustralis,d’Orbigny,whichnowlivesinthebay。Thislowplainisboundedtothesouth,attheCabezadelBuey,bythecliff-formedmarginofawideplainofthePampeanformation,whichI
  estimatedatsixtyfeetinheight。Onthesummitofthiscliffthereisarangeofhighsand-dunesextendingseveralmilesinaneastandwestline。
  SouthwardofBahiaBlanca,theriverColoradoflowsbetweentwoplains,apparentlyfromthirtytofortyfeetinheight。Oftheseplains,thesouthernoneslopesuptothefootofthegreatsandstoneplateauoftheRioNegro;andthenorthernoneagainstanescarpmentofthePampeandeposit;sothattheColoradoflowsinavalleyfiftymilesinwidth,betweentheupperescarpments。Istatethis,becauseonthelowplainatthefootofthenorthernescarpment,Icrossedanimmenseaccumulationofhighsand-dunes,estimatedbytheGauchosatnolessthaneightmilesinbreadth。Thesedunesrangewestwardfromthecoast,whichistwentymilesdistant,tofarinland,inlinesparalleltothevalley;theyareseparatedfromeachotherbyargillaceousflats,preciselylikethoseonthenorthernshoreofBahiaBlanca。Atpresentthereisnosourcewhencethisimmenseaccumulationofsandcouldproceed;butif,asIbelieve,theupperescarpmentsonceformedtheshoresofanestuary,inthatcasethesandstoneformationoftheriverNegrowouldhaveaffordedaninexhaustiblesupplyofsand,whichwouldnaturallyhaveaccumulatedonthenorthernshore,asoneverypartofthecoastopentothesouthwindsbetweenBahiaBlancaandBuenosAyres。
  AtSanBlas40degrees40’S。alittlesouthofthemouthoftheColorado,M。d’OrbignyfoundfourteenspeciesofexistingshellssixofthemidenticalwiththosefromBahiaBlanca,embeddedintheirnaturalpositions。“Voyage“etc。page54。Fromthezoneofdepthwhichtheseshellsareknowntoinhabit,theymusthavebeenupliftedthirty-twofeet。
  Healsofound,atfromfifteentotwentyfeetabovethisbed,theremainsofanancientbeach。
  Tenmilessouthward,but120milestothewest,atPortS。Antonio,theOfficersemployedontheSurveyassuredmethattheysawmanyoldsea-
  shellsstrewedonthesurfaceoftheground,similartothosefoundonotherpartsofthecoastofPatagonia。AtSanJosef,ninetymilessouthinnearlythesamelongitude,Ifound,abovethegravel,whichcapsanoldtertiaryformation,anirregularbedandhillockofsand,severalfeetinthickness,aboundingwithshellsofPatelladeaurita,MytilusMagellanicus,thelatterretainingmuchofitscolour;FususMagellanicusandavarietyofthesame,andalargeBalanusprobablyB。Tulipa,allnowfoundonthiscoast:Iestimatedthisbedatfromeightytoonehundredfeetabovethelevelofthesea。Tothewestwardofthisbay,thereisaplainestimatedatbetweentwohundredandthreehundredfeetinheight:thisplainseems,frommanymeasurements,tobeacontinuationofthesandstoneplatformoftheriverNegro。Thenextplacesouthward,whereIlanded,wasatPortDesire,340milesdistant;butfromtheintermediatedistrictsI
  received,throughthekindnessoftheOfficersoftheSurvey,especiallyfromLieutenantStokesandMr。King,manyspecimensandsketches,quitesufficienttoshowthegeneraluniformityofthewholelineofcoast。Imayherestate,thatthewholeofPatagoniaconsistsofatertiaryformation,restingonandsometimessurroundinghillsofporphyryandquartz:thesurfaceiswornintomanywidevalleysandintolevelstep-formedplains,risingoneaboveanother,allcappedbyirregularbedsofgravel,chieflycomposedofporphyriticrocks。Thisgravelformationwillbeseparatelydescribedattheendofthechapter。
  Myobjectingivingthefollowingmeasurementsoftheplains,astakenbytheOfficersoftheSurvey,is,aswillhereafterbeseen,toshowtheremarkableequabilityoftherecentelevatorymovements。RoundthesouthernpartsofNuevoGulf,asfarastheRiverChupatseventymilessouthwardofSanJosef,thereappeartobeseveralplains,ofwhichthebestdefinedarehererepresented。
  InthefollowingDiagrams:
  1。BaselineisLevelofsea。
  2。Scaleis1/20ofinchto100feetvertical。
  3。Heightisshowninfeetthus:
  An。M。alwaysstandsforangularortrigonometricalmeasurement。
  Ba。M。alwaysstandsforbarometricalmeasurement。
  Est。alwaysstandsforestimationbytheOfficersoftheSurvey。
  DIAGRAM1。SECTIONOFSTEP-FORMEDPLAINSSOUTHOFNUEVOGULF。
  >FromEastsealeveltoWesthigh:
  Terrace1。80Est。
  Terrace2。200-220An。M。
  Terrace3。350An。M。
  TheupperplainisherewelldefinedcalledTableHills;itsedgeformsaclifforlineofescarpmentmanymilesinlength,projectingoveralowerplain。ThelowestplaincorrespondswiththatatSanJosefwiththerecentshellsonitssurface。Betweenthislowestandtheuppermostplain,thereisprobablymorethanonestep-formedterrace:severalmeasurementsshowtheexistenceoftheintermediateoneoftheheightgiveninDiagram1。
  DIAGRAM2。SECTIONOFPLAINSINTHEBAYOFST。GEORGE。
  >FromEastsealeveltoWesthigh:
  Terrace1。250An。M。
  Terrace2。330An。M。
  Terrace3。580An。M。
  Terraces4,5and6notmeasured。
  Terrace7。1,200Est。
  NearthenorthheadlandofthegreatBayofSt。George100milessouthoftheChupat,twowell-markedplainsof250and330feetweremeasured:
  thesearesaidtosweeproundagreatpartoftheBay。Atitssouthheadland,120milesdistantfromthenorthheadland,the250feetplainwasagainmeasured。Inthemiddleofthebay,ahigherplainwasfoundattwoneighbouringplacesTilliRoadsandC。Marquestobe580feetinheight。
  Abovethisplain,towardstheinterior,Mr。Stokesinformsmethattherewereseveralotherstep-formedplains,thehighestofwhichwasestimatedat1,200feet,andwasseenrangingatapparentlythesameheightfor150
  milesnorthward。Alltheseplainshavebeenwornintogreatvalleysandmuchdenuded。Thesectionin,Diagram3isillustrativeofthegeneralstructureofthegreatBayofSt。George。AtthesouthheadlandoftheBayofSt。GeorgenearC。ThreePointsthe250plainisveryextensive。
  DIAGRAM3。SECTIONOFPLAINSATPORTDESIRE。
  >FromEastsealeveltoWesthigh:
  Terrace1。100Est。
  Terrace2。245-255Ba。M。Shellsonsurface。
  Terrace3。330Ba。M。Shellsonsurface。
  Terrace4。Notmeasured。
  AtPortDesirefortymilessouthwardImadeseveralmeasurementswiththebarometerofaplain,whichextendsalongthenorthsideoftheportandalongtheopencoast,andwhichvariesfrom245to255feetinheight:thisplainabutsagainstthefootofahigherplainof330feet,whichextendsalsofarnorthwardalongthecoast,andlikewiseintotheinterior。Inthedistanceahigherinlandplatformwasseen,ofwhichIdonotknowtheheight。Inthreeseparateplaces,Iobservedthecliffofthe245-255feetplain,fringedbyaterraceornarrowplainestimatedataboutonehundredfeetinheight。TheseplainsarerepresentedinthesectionDiagram3。
  Inmanyplaces,evenatthedistanceofthreeandfourmilesfromthecoast,Ifoundonthegravel-cappedsurfaceofthe245-255feet,andofthe330feetplain,shellsofMytilusMagellanicus,M。edulis,Patelladeaurita,andanotherPatella,toomuchworntobeidentified,butapparentlysimilartoonefoundabundantlyadheringtotheleavesofthekelp。Thesespeciesarethecommonestnowlivingonthiscoast。Theshellsallappearedveryold;theblueofthemusselswasmuchfaded;andonlytracesofcolourcouldbeperceivedinthePatellas,ofwhichtheoutersurfaceswerescalingoff。Theylayscatteredonthesmoothsurfaceofthegravel,butaboundedmostincertainpatches,especiallyattheheadsofthesmallervalleys:theygenerallycontainedsandintheirinsides;andI
  presumethattheyhavebeenwashedbyalluvialactionoutofthinsandylayers,tracesofwhichmaysometimesbeseencoveringthegravel。Theseveralplainshaveverylevelsurfaces;butallarescoopedoutbynumerousbroad,winding,flat-bottomedvalleys,inwhich,judgingfromthebushes,streamsneverflow。Theseremarksonthestateoftheshells,andonthenatureoftheplains,applytothefollowingcases,soneednotberepeated。
  DIAGRAM4。SECTIONOFPLAINSATPORTS。JULIAN。
  >FromEastsealeveltoWesthigh:
  Terrace1。Shellsonsurface。90Est。
  Terrace2。430An。M。
  Terrace3。560An。M。
  Terrace4。950An。M。
  SouthwardofPortDesire,theplainshavebeengreatlydenuded,withonlysmallpiecesoftablelandmarkingtheirformerextension。ButoppositeBirdIsland,twoconsiderablestep-formedplainsweremeasured,andfoundrespectivelytobe350and590feetinheight。ThislatterplainextendsalongthecoastclosetoPortSt。Julian110milessouthofPortDesire;
  seeDiagram4。
  Thelowestplainwasestimatedatninetyfeet:itisremarkablefromtheusualgravel-bedbeingdeeplywornintohollows,whicharefilledupwith,aswellasthegeneralsurfacecoveredby,sandyandreddishearthymatter:
  inoneofthehollowsthusfilledup,theskeletonoftheMacraucheniaPatachonica,aswillhereafterbedescribed,wasembedded。Onthesurfaceandintheupperpartsofthisearthymass,therewerenumerousshellsofMytilusMagellanicusandM。edulis,Patelladeaurita,andfragmentsofotherspecies。Thisplainistolerablylevel,butnotextensive;itformsapromontorysevenoreightmileslong,andthreeorfourwide。TheupperplainsinDiagram4weremeasuredbytheOfficersoftheSurvey;theywereallcappedbythickbedsofgravel,andwereallmoreorlessdenuded;the950plainconsistsmerelyofseparate,truncated,gravel-cappedhills,twoofwhich,bymeasurement,werefoundtodifferonlythreefeet。The430
  feetplainextends,apparentlywithhardlyabreak,tonearthenorthernentranceoftheRioSantaCruzfiftymilestothesouth;butitwastherefoundtobeonly330feetinheight。
  DIAGRAM5。SECTIONOFPLAINSATTHEMOUTHOFTHERIOSANTACRUZ。
  >FromEastsealeveltoWesthigh:
  Terrace1。sloping355Ba。M。Shellsonsurface。463Ba。M。
  Terrace2。710An。M。
  Terrace3。840An。M。
  OnthesouthernsideofthemouthoftheSantaCruzwehaveDiagram5,whichIamabletogivewithmoredetailthanintheforegoingcases。
  Theplainmarked355feetasascertainedbythebarometerandbyangularmeasurementisacontinuationoftheabove-mentioned330feetplain:itextendsinaN。W。directionalongthesouthernshoresoftheestuary。Itiscappedbygravel,whichinmostpartsiscoveredbyathinbedofsandyearth,andisscoopedoutbymanyflat-bottomedvalleys。Itappearstotheeyequitelevel,butinproceedinginaS。S。W。course,towardsanescarpmentdistantaboutsixmiles,andlikewiserangingacrossthecountryinaN。W。line,itwasfoundtoriseatfirstinsensibly,andthenforthelasthalf-mile,sensibly,closeuptothebaseoftheescarpment:atthispointitwas463feetinheight,showingariseof108feetinthesixmiles。Onthis355-463feetplain,IfoundseveralshellsofMytilusMagellanicusandofaMytilus,whichMr。Sowerbyinformsmeisyetunnamed,thoughwell-knownasrecentonthiscoast;Patelladeaurita;Fusus,I
  believe,Magellanicus,butthespecimenhasbeenlost;andatthedistanceoffourmilesfromthecoast,attheheightofaboutfourhundredfeet,therewerefragmentsofthesamePatellaandofaVolutaapparentlyV。
  ancillapartiallyembeddedinthesuperficialsandyearth。Alltheseshellshadthesameancientappearancewiththosefromtheforegoinglocalities。AsthetidesalongthispartofthecoastriseattheSyzygalperiodfortyfeet,andthereforeformawell-markedbeach-line,I
  particularlylookedoutforridgesincrossingthisplain,which,aswehaveseen,rises108feetinaboutsixmiles,butIcouldnotseeanytracesofsuch。Thenexthighestplainis710feetabovethesea;itisverynarrow,butlevel,andiscappedwithgravel;itabutstothefootofthe840feetplain。Thissummit-plainextendsasfarastheeyecanrange,bothinlandalongthesouthernsideofthevalleyoftheSantaCruz,andsouthwardalongtheAtlantic。
  THEVALLEYOFTHER。SANTACRUZ。
  ThisvalleyrunsinaneastandwestdirectiontotheCordillera,adistanceofaboutonehundredandsixtymiles。ItcutsthroughthegreatPatagoniantertiaryformation,including,intheupperhalfofthevalley,immensestreamsofbasalticlava,whichaswellasthesofterbeds,arecappedbygravel;andthisgravel,highuptheriver,isassociatedwithavastboulderformation。Ihavedescribedthisformationinapaperinthe“GeologicalTransactions“volume6page415。Inascendingthevalley,theplainwhichatthemouthonthesouthernsideis355feethigh,isseentotrendtowardsthecorrespondingplainonthenorthernside,sothattheirescarpmentsappearliketheshoresofaformerestuary,largerthantheexistingone:theescarpments,also,ofthe840feetsummit-plainwithacorrespondingnorthernone,whichismetwithsomewayupthevalley,appearliketheshoresofastilllargerestuary。Fartherupthevalley,thesidesareboundedthroughoutitsentirelengthbylevel,gravel-cappedterraces,risingaboveeachotherinsteps。Thewidthbetweentheupperescarpmentsisonanaveragebetweensevenandtenmiles;inonespot,however,wherecuttingthroughthebasalticlava,itwasonlyonemileandahalf。Betweentheescarpmentsofthesecondhighestterracetheaveragewidthisaboutfourorfivemiles。Thebottomofthevalley,atthedistanceof110milesfromitsmouth,beginssensiblytoexpand,andsoonformsaconsiderableplain,440feetabovethelevelofthesea,throughwhichtheriverflowsinagutfromtwentytofortyfeetindepth。Iherefound,atapoint140milesfromtheAtlantic,andseventymilesfromthenearestcreekofthePacific,attheheightof410feet,averyoldandwornshellofPatelladeaurita。Lowerdownthevalley,105milesfromtheAtlanticlongitude71degreesW。,andatanelevationofabout300feet,Ialsofound,inthebedoftheriver,twomuchwornandbrokenshellsoftheVolutaancilla,stillretainingtracesoftheircolours;andoneofthePatelladeaurita。Itappearedthattheseshellshadbeenwashedfromthebanksintotheriver;consideringthedistancefromthesea,thedesertandabsolutelyunfrequentedcharacterofthecountry,andtheveryancientappearanceoftheshellsexactlylikethosefoundontheplainsnearerthecoast,thereis,Ithink,nocausetosuspectthattheycouldhavebeenbroughtherebyIndians。
  Theplainattheheadofthevalleyistolerablylevel,butwater-worn,andwithmanysand-dunesonitlikethoseonasea-coast。Atthehighestpointtowhichweascended,itwassixteenmileswideinanorthandsouthline;
  andforty-fivemilesinlengthinaneastandwestline。Itisborderedbytheescarpments,oneabovetheother,oftwoplains,whichdivergeastheyapproachtheCordillera,andconsequentlyresemble,attwolevels,theshoresofgreatbaysfacingthemountains;andthesemountainsarebreachedinfrontofthelowerplainbyaremarkablegap。Thevalley,therefore,oftheSantaCruzconsistsofastraightbroadcut,aboutninetymilesinlength,borderedbygravel-cappedterracesandplains,theescarpmentsofwhichatbothendsdivergeorexpand,oneovertheother,afterthemanneroftheshoresofgreatbays。Bearinginmindthispeculiarformoftheland——thesand-dunesontheplainattheheadofthevalley——thegapintheCordillera,infrontofit——thepresenceintwoplacesofveryancientshellsofexistingspecies——andlastly,thecircumstanceofthe355-453
  feetplain,withthenumerousmarineremainsonitssurface,sweepingfromtheAtlanticcoast,farupthevalley,Ithinkwemustadmit,thatwithintherecentperiod,thecourseoftheSantaCruzformedasea-straitintersectingthecontinent。Atthisperiod,thesouthernpartofSouthAmericaconsistedofanarchipelagoofislands360milesinanorthandsouthline。Weshallpresentlysee,thattwootherstraitsalso,sinceclosed,thencutthroughTierradelFuego;Imayadd,thatoneofthemmustatthattimehaveexpandedatthefootoftheCordilleraintoagreatbaynowOtwayWaterlikethatwhichformerlycoveredthe440feetplainattheheadoftheSantaCruz。
  DIAGRAM6。NORTHANDSOUTHSECTIONACROSSTHETERRACESBOUNDINGTHEVALLEY
  OFTHERIVERSANTACRUZ,HIGHUPITSCOURSE。
  Theheightofeachterrace,abovetheleveloftheriverfurthesttonearesttotheriverinfeet:
  A,northandsouth:1,122
  B,northandsouth:869
  C,northandsouth:639
  D,north:notmeasured。D,north?suggestsouth:185
  E:20
  BedofRiver。
  Verticalscale1/20ofinchto100feet;butterraceE,beingonlytwentyfeetabovetheriver,hasnecessarilybeenraised。Thehorizontaldistancesmuchcontracted;thedistancefromtheedgeofANorthtoASouthbeingonanaveragefromseventotenmiles。
  Ihavesaidthatthevalleyinitswholecourseisborderedbygravel-
  cappedplains。ThesectionDiagram6,supposedtobedrawninanorthandsouthlineacrossthevalley,canscarcelybeconsideredasmorethanillustrative;forduringourhurriedascentitwasimpossibletomeasurealltheplainsatanyoneplace。AtapointnearlymidwaybetweentheCordilleraandtheAtlantic,IfoundtheplainAnorth1,122feetabovetheriver;allthelowerplainsonthissidewerehereunitedintoonegreatbrokencliff:atapointsixteenmileslowerdownthestream,IfoundbymeasurementandestimationthatBnorthwas869abovetheriver:veryneartowhereAnorthwasmeasured,Cnorthwas639abovethesamelevel:theterraceDnorthwasnowheremeasured:thelowestEnorthwasinmanyplacesabouttwentyfeetabovetheriver。Theseplainsorterraceswerebestdevelopedwherethevalleywaswidest;thewholefive,likegiganticsteps,occurredtogetheronlyatafewpoints。Thelowerterracesarelesscontinuousthanthehigherones,andappeartobeentirelylostintheupperthirdofthevalley。TerraceCsouth,howeverwastracedcontinuouslyforagreatdistance。TheterraceBnorth,atapointfifty-
  fivemilesfromthemouthoftheriver,wasfourmilesinwidth;higherupthevalleythisterraceoratleastthesecondhighestone,forIcouldnotalwaystraceitcontinuouslywasabouteightmileswide。Thissecondplainwasgenerallywiderthanthelowerones——asindeedfollowsfromthevalleyfromAnorthtoAsouthbeinggenerallynearlydoublethewidthoffromBnorthtoBsouth。Lowdownthevalley,thesummit-plainA
  southiscontinuouswiththe840feetplainonthecoast,butitissoonlostoruniteswiththeescarpmentofBsouth。ThecorrespondingplainA
  north,onthenorthsideofthevalley,appearstorangecontinuouslyfromtheCordilleratotheheadofthepresentestuaryoftheSantaCruz,whereittrendsnorthwardtowardsPortSt。Julian。NeartheCordillerathesummit-plainonbothsidesofthevalleyisbetween3,200and3,300feetinheight;at100milesfromtheAtlantic,itis1,416feet,andonthecoast840feet,allabovethesea-beach;sothatinadistanceof100milestheplainrises576feet,andmuchmorerapidlyneartotheCordillera。ThelowerterracesBandCalsoappeartoriseastheyrunupthevalley;thusDnorth,measuredattwopointstwenty-fourmilesapart,wasfoundtohaverisen185feet。FromseveralreasonsIsuspect,thatthisgradualinclinationoftheplainsupthevalley,hasbeenchieflycausedbytheelevationofthecontinentinmass,havingbeenthegreaterthenearertotheCordillera。
  Alltheterracesarecappedwithwell-roundedgravel,whichrestseitheronthedenudedandsometimesfurrowedsurfaceofthesofttertiarydeposits,oronthebasalticlava。Thedifferenceinheightbetweensomeofthelowerstepsorterracesseemstobeentirelyowingtoadifferenceinthethicknessofthecappinggravel。Furrowsandinequalitiesinthegravel,wheresuchoccur,arefilledupandsmoothedoverwithsandyearth。Thepebbles,especiallyonthehigherplains,areoftenwhitewashed,andevencementedtogetherbyawhitealuminoussubstance,andIoccasionallyfoundthistobethecasewiththegravelontheterraceD。Icouldnotperceiveanytraceofasimilardepositiononthepebblesnowthrownupbytheriver,andthereforeIdonotthinkthatterraceDwasriver-formed。AstheterraceEgenerallystandsabouttwentyfeetabovethebedoftheriver,myfirstimpressionwastodoubtwhethereventhislowestonecouldhavebeensoformed;butitshouldalwaysbeborneinmind,thatthehorizontalupheavalofadistrict,byincreasingthetotaldescentofthestreams,willalwaystendtoincrease,firstnearthesea-coastandthenfurtherandfurtherupthevalley,theircorrodinganddeepeningpowers:sothatanalluvialplain,formedalmostonalevelwithastream,will,afteranelevationofthiskind,intimebecutthrough,andleftstandingataheightneveragaintobereachedbythewater。WithrespecttothethreeupperterracesoftheSantaCruz,Ithinktherecanbenodoubt,thattheyweremodelledbythesea,whenthevalleywasoccupiedbyastrait,inthesamemannerhereaftertobediscussedasthegreaterstep-formed,shell-
  strewedplainsalongthecoastofPatagonia。
  ToreturntotheshoresoftheAtlantic:the840feetplain,atthemouthoftheSantaCruz,isseenextendinghorizontallyfartothesouth;andI
  aminformedbytheOfficersoftheSurvey,thatbendingroundtheheadofCoyInletsixty-fivemilessouthward,ittrendsinland。Outliersofapparentlythesameheightareseenfortymilesfarthersouth,inlandoftheriverGallegos;andaplaincomesdowntoCapeGregorythirty-fivemilessouthward,intheStraitofMagellan,whichwasestimatedatbetweeneighthundredandonethousandfeetinheight,andwhich,risingtowardstheinterior,iscappedbytheboulderformation。SouthoftheStraitofMagellan,therearelargeoutlyingmassesofapparentlythesamegreattableland,extendingatintervalsalongtheeasterncoastofTierradelFuego:attwoplaceshere,110milesapart,thisplainwasfoundtobe950
  and970feetinheight。