AlthoughinsomerespectsmoretechnicalintheirsubjectsandstylethanDarwin’s“Journal,“thebooksherereprintedwillneverlosetheirvalueandinterestfortheoriginalityoftheobservationstheycontain。Manypartsofthemareadmirablyadaptedforgivinganinsightintoproblemsregardingthestructureandchangesoftheearth’ssurface,andinfacttheyformacharmingintroductiontophysicalgeologyandphysiographyintheirapplicationtospecialdomains。Thebooksthemselvescannotbeobtainedformanytimesthepriceofthepresentvolume,andboththegeneralreader,whodesirestoknowmoreofDarwin’swork,andthestudentofgeology,whonaturallywishestoknowhowamastermindreasonedonmostimportantgeologicalsubjects,willbegladoftheopportunityofpossessingtheminaconvenientandcheapform。
Thethreeintroductions,whichmyfriendProfessorJuddhaskindlyfurnished,givecriticalandhistoricalinformationwhichmakesthiseditionofspecialvalue。
G。T。B。
TABLEOFCONTENTS。
CRITICALINTRODUCTION。
CHAPTERI——ONTHEELEVATIONOFTHEEASTERNCOASTOFSOUTHAMERICA。
UpraisedshellsofLaPlata——BahiaBlanca,Sand-dunesandPumice-pebbles——
Step-formedplainsofPatagonia,withupraisedshells——Terrace-boundedvalleyofSantaCruz,formerlyasea-strait——UpraisedshellsofTierradelFuego——Lengthandbreadthoftheelevatedarea——Equabilityofthemovements,asshownbythesimilarheightsoftheplains——Slownessoftheelevatoryprocess——Modeofformationofthestep-formedplains——Summary——
GreatshingleformationofPatagonia;itsextent,origin,anddistribution——Formationofsea-cliffs。
CHAPTERII——ONTHEELEVATIONOFTHEWESTERNCOASTOFSOUTHAMERICA。
ChonosArchipelago——Chiloe,recentandgradualelevationof,traditionsoftheinhabitantsonthissubject——Concepcion,earthquakeandelevationof——
VALPARAISO,greatelevationof,upraisedshells,earthormarineorigin,gradualriseofthelandwithinthehistoricalperiod——COQUIMBO,elevationof,inrecenttimes;terracesofmarineorigin,theirinclination,theirescarpmentsnothorizontal——Guasco,gravelterracesof——Copiapo——PERU——
UpraisedshellsofCobija,Iquique,andArica——Lima,shell-bedsandsea-
beachonSanLorenzo——Humanremains,fossilearthenware,earthquakedebacle,recentsubsidence——Onthedecayofupraisedshells——Generalsummary。
CHAPTERIII——ONTHEPLAINSANDVALLEYSOFCHILE:——SALIFEROUSSUPERFICIAL
DEPOSITS。
Basin-likeplainsofChile;theirdrainage,theirmarineorigin——Marksofsea-actionontheeasternflanksoftheCordillera——Slopingterrace-likefringesofstratifiedshinglewithinthevalleysoftheCordillera;theirmarineorigin——BouldersinthevalleyofCachapual——HorizontalelevationoftheCordillera——Formationofvalleys——Bouldersmovedbyearthquake-
waves——Salinesuperficialdeposits——BedofnitrateofsodaatIquique——
Salineincrustations——Salt-lakesofLaPlataandPatagonia;purityofthesalt;itsorigin。
CHAPTERIV——ONTHEFORMATIONSOFTHEPAMPAS。
Mineralogicalconstitution——Microscopicalstructure——BuenosAyres,shellsembeddedintosca-rock——BuenosAyrestotheColorado——S。Ventana——BahiaBlanca;M。Hermoso,bonesandinfusoriaof;P。Alta,shells,bones,andinfusoriaof;co-existenceoftherecentshellsandextinctmammifers——
BuenosAyrestoSt。Fe——SkeletonsofMastodon——Infusoria——Inferiormarinetertiarystrata,theirage——Horse’stooth。BANDAORIENTAL——
SuperficialPampeanformation——Inferiortertiarystrata,variationof,connectedwithvolcanicaction;MacraucheniaPatachonicaatS。JulianinPatagonia,ageof,subsequenttolivingmolluscaandtotheerraticblockperiod。SUMMARY——AreaofPampeanformation——Theoriesoforigin——Sourceofsediment——Estuaryorigin——Contemporaneouswithexistingmollusca——
Relationstounderlyingtertiarystrata。Ancientdepositofestuaryorigin——ElevationandsuccessivedepositionofthePampeanformation——
Numberandstateoftheremainsofmammifers;theirhabitation,food,extinction,andrange——Conclusion——SupplementonthethicknessofthePampeanformation——LocalitiesinPampasatwhichmammiferousremainshavebeenfound。
CHAPTERV——ONTHEOLDERTERTIARYFORMATIONSOFPATAGONIAANDCHILE。
RioNegro——S。Josef——PortDesire,whitepumiceousmudstonewithinfusoria——PortS。Julian——SantaCruz,basalticlavaof——P。Gallegos——
EasternTierradelFuego;leavesofextinctbeech-trees——SummaryonthePatagoniantertiaryformations——TertiaryformationsoftheWesternCoast——
ChonosandChiloegroups,volcanicrocksof——Concepcion——Navidad——
Coquimbo——Summary——Ageofthetertiaryformations——Linesofelevation——
Silicifiedwood——ComparativerangesoftheextinctandlivingmolluscaontheWestCoastofS。America——Climateofthetertiaryperiod——OnthecausesoftheabsenceofrecentconchiferousdepositsonthecoastsofSouthAmerica——Onthecontemporaneousdepositionandpreservationofsedimentaryformations。
CHAPTERVI——PLUTONICANDMETAMORPHICROCKS:——CLEAVAGEANDFOLIATION。
Brazil,Bahia,gneisswithdisjointedmetamorphoseddikes——Strikeoffoliation——RiodeJaneiro,gneiss-granite,embeddedfragmentin,decompositionof——LaPlata,metamorphicandoldvolcanicrocksof——S。
Ventana——ClaystoneporphyryformationofPatagonia;singularmetamorphicrocks;pseudo-dikes——FalklandIslands,palaeozoicfossilsof——TierradelFuego,clay-slateformation,cretaceousfossilsof;cleavageandfoliation;
formofland——ChonosArchipelago,mica-schists,foliationdisturbedbygraniticaxis;dikes——Chiloe——Concepcion,dikes,successiveformationof——CentralandNorthernChile——Concludingremarksoncleavageandfoliation——Theircloseanalogyandsimilarorigin——Stratificationofmetamorphicschists——Foliationofintrusiverocks——Relationofcleavageandfoliationtothelinesoftensionduringmetamorphosis。
CHAPTERVII——CENTRALCHILE:——STRUCTUREOFTHECORDILLERA。
CentralChile——BasalformationsoftheCordillera——Originoftheporphyriticclay-stoneconglomerate——Andesite——Volcanicrocks——SectionoftheCordillerabythePeuquenesorPortilloPass——Greatgypseousformation——Peuquenesline;thicknessofstrata,fossilsof——Portilloline——Conglomerate,orthiticgranite,mica-schist,volcanicrocksof——
ConcludingremarksonthedenudationandelevationofthePortilloline——
SectionbytheCumbre,orUspallataPass——Porphyries——Gypseousstrata——
SectionnearthePuentedelInca;fossilsof——Greatsubsidence——Intrusiveporphyries——PlainofUspallata——SectionoftheUspallatachain——
Structureandnatureofthestrata——Silicifiedverticaltrees——Greatsubsidence——Graniticrocksofaxis——ConcludingremarksontheUspallatarange;originsubsequenttothatofthemainCordillera;twoperiodsofsubsidence;comparisonwiththePortillochain。
CHAPTERVIII——NORTHERNCHILE——CONCLUSION。
SectionfromIllapeltoCombarbala;gypseousformationwithsilicifiedwood——Panuncillo——Coquimbo;minesofArqueros;sectionupvalley;
fossils——Guasco,fossilsof——Copiapo,sectionupvalley;LasAmolanas,silicifiedwood——Conglomerates,natureofformerland,fossils,thicknessofstrata,greatsubsidence——ValleyofDespoblado,fossils,tufaceousdeposit,complicateddislocationsof——Relationsbetweenancientorificesoferuptionandsubsequentaxesofinjection——Iquique,Peru,fossilsof,salt-deposits——Metalliferousveins——Summaryontheporphyriticconglomerateandgypseousformations——Greatsubsidencewithpartialelevationsduringthecretaceo-ooliticperiod——OntheelevationandstructureoftheCordillera——Recapitulationonthetertiaryseries——
Relationbetweenmovementsofsubsidenceandvolcanicaction——Pampeanformation——Recentelevatorymovements——Long-continuedvolcanicactionintheCordillera——Conclusion。
INDEX。
GEOLOGICALOBSERVATIONSONSOUTHAMERICA
BY
CHARLESDARWIN。
CRITICALINTRODUCTION。
Oftheremarkable“trilogy“constitutedbyDarwin’swritingswhichdealwiththegeologyofthe“Beagle,“thememberwhichhasperhapsattractedleastattention,uptothepresenttimeisthatwhichtreatsofthegeologyofSouthAmerica。TheactualwritingofthisbookappearstohaveoccupiedDarwinashorterperiodthaneitheroftheothervolumesoftheseries;hisdiaryrecordsthattheworkwasaccomplishedwithintenmonths,namely,betweenJuly1844andApril1845;butthebookwasnotactuallyissuedtilllateintheyearfollowing,theprefacebearingthedate“September1846。”
Altogether,asDarwininformsusinhis“Autobiography,“thegeologicalbooks“consumedfourandahalfyears’steadywork,“mostoftheremainderofthetenyearsthatelapsedbetweenthereturnofthe“Beagle,“andthecompletionofhisgeologicalbooksbeing,itissadtorelate,“lostthroughillness!”
Concerningthe“GeologicalObservationsonSouthAmerica,“DarwinwrotetohisfriendLyell,asfollows:——“Myvolumewillbeabout240pages,dreadfullydull,yetmuchcondensed。Ithinkwheneveryouhavetimetolookthroughit,youwillthinkthecollectionoffactsontheelevationofthelandandontheformationofterracesprettygood。”
“Muchcondensed“istheverdictthateveryonemustendorse,onrisingfromtheperusalofthisremarkablebook;butbynomeans“dull。”ThethreeandahalfyearsfromApril1832toSeptember1835,werespentbyDarwininSouthAmerica,andweredevotedtocontinuousscientificwork;theproblemshedealtwithwereeitherpurelygeologicalorthosewhichconstitutetheborderlandbetweenthegeologicalandbiologicalsciences。Itisimpossibletoreadthejournalwhichhekeptduringthistimewithoutbeingimpressedbytheconvictionthatitcontainsallthegermsofthoughtwhichafterwardsdevelopedintothe“OriginofSpecies。”ButitisequallyevidentthatafterhisreturntoEngland,biologicalspeculationsgraduallybegantoexerciseamoreexclusiveswayoverDarwin’smind,andtendedtodispossessgeology,whichduringtheactualperiodofthevoyagecertainlyengrossedmostofhistimeandattention。ThewonderfulseriesofobservationsmadeduringthosethreeandahalfyearsinSouthAmericacouldscarcelybedonejusticeto,inthe240pagesdevotedtotheirexposition。ThatheexecutedtheworkofpreparingthebookonSouthAmericainsomewhatthemannerofatask,isshownbymanyreferencesinhisletters。WritingtoSirJosephHookerin1845,hesays,“IhopethisnextsummertofinishmySouthAmericanGeology,thentogetoutalittleZoology,andHURRAHFORMYSPECIESWORK!”
Itwouldseemthatthefeelingofdisappointment,whichDarwinsooftenexperiencedincomparingabookwhencompleted,withtheobservationsandspeculationswhichhadinspiredit,wasmorekeenlyfeltinthecaseofhisvolumeonSouthAmericathananyother。Toonefriendhewrites,“Ihaveoflatebeenslavingextrahard,tothegreatdiscomfitureofwretcheddigestiveorgans,atSouthAmerica,andthankallthefates,Ihavedonethree-fourthsofit。WritingplainEnglishgrowswithmemoreandmoredifficult,andneverattainable。Asforyourpretendingthatyouwillreadanythingsodullasmypuregeologicaldescriptions,laynotsuchaflatteringunctiononmysoul,foritisincredible。”Toanotherfriendhewrites,“Youdonotknowwhatyouthreatenwhenyouproposetoreadit——itispurelygeological。Isaidtomybrother,’Youwillofcoursereadit,’
andhisanswerwas,’Uponmylife,Iwouldsoonerevenbuyit。’“
Inspiteofthesedisparagingremarks,however,wearestronglyinclinedtobelievethatthisbook,despisedbyitsauthor,andneglectedbyhiscontemporaries,willintheendbeadmittedtobeoneofDarwin’schieftitlestofame。Itis,perhaps,anunfortunatecircumstancethatthegreatsuccesswhichheattainedinbiologybythepublicationofthe“OriginofSpecies“has,tosomeextent,overshadowedthefactthatDarwin’sclaimsasageologist,areoftheveryhighestorder。Itisnottoomuchtosaythat,hadDarwinnotbeenageologist,the“OriginofSpecies“couldneverhavebeenwrittenbyhim。Butapartfromthosegeologicalquestions,whichhaveanimportantbearingonbiologicalthoughtandspeculation,suchastheproofsofimperfectioninthegeologicalrecord,therelationsofthelatertertiaryfaunastotherecentonesinthesameareas,andtheapparentinterminglingoftypesbelongingtodistantgeologicalepochs,whenwestudythepalaeontologyofremotedistricts,——thereareotherpurelygeologicalproblems,uponwhichthecontributionsmadebyDarwinareoftheveryhighestvalue。IbelievethattheverdictofthehistoriansofsciencewillbethatifDarwinhadnottakenaforemostplaceamongthebiologistsofthiscentury,hispositionasageologistwouldhavebeenanalmostequallycommandingone。
ButinthecaseofDarwin’sprincipalgeologicalwork——thatrelatingtotheoriginofthecrystallineschists,——geologistswerenotatthetimepreparedtoreceivehisrevolutionaryteachings。Theinfluenceofpowerfulauthoritywaslongexercised,indeed,tostiflehisteaching,andonlynow,whenthisunfortunateoppositionhasdisappeared,isthetruenatureandimportanceofDarwin’spurelygeologicalworkbeginningtoberecognised。
Thetwofirstchaptersofthe“GeologicalObservationsonSouthAmerica,“
dealwiththeproofswhichexistofgreat,butfrequentlyinterrupted,movementsofelevationduringveryrecentgeologicaltimes。Inconnectionwiththissubject,Darwin’sparticularattentionwasdirectedtotherelationsbetweenthegreatearthquakesofSouthAmerica——ofsomeofwhichhehadimpressiveexperience——andthepermanentchangesofelevationwhichweretakingplace。Hewasmuchstruckbytherapiditywithwhichtheevidenceofsuchgreatearthmovementsisfrequentlyobliterated;andespeciallywiththeremarkablewayinwhichtheactionofrain-water,percolatingthroughdepositsontheearth’ssurface,removesalltracesofshellsandothercalcareousorganisms。Itwastheseconsiderationswhichweretheparentsofthegeneralisationthatapalaeontologicalrecordcanonlybepreservedduringthoseperiodsinwhichlong-continuedslowsubsidenceisgoingon。Thisinturn,ledtothestillwiderandmoresuggestiveconclusionthatthegeologicalrecordasawholeis,andnevercanbemorethan,aseriesofmoreorlessisolatedfragments。Therecognitionofthisimportantfactconstitutesthekeystonetoanytheoryofevolutionwhichseekstofindabasisintheactualstudyofthetypesoflifethathaveformerlyinhabitedourglobe。
Inhisthirdchapter,Darwingivesanumberofinterestingfacts,collectedduringhisvisitstotheplainsandvalleysofChili,whichbearonthequestionoftheoriginofsaliferousdeposits——theaccumulationofsalt,gypsum,andnitrateofsoda。Thisisaproblemthathasexcitedmuchdiscussionamonggeologists,andwhich,inspiteofmanyvaluableobservations,stillremainstoagreatextentveryobscure。AmongtheimportantconsiderationsinsisteduponbyDarwinisthatrelatingtotheabsenceofmarineshellsinbedsassociatedwithsuchdeposits。Hejustlyarguesthatifthestratawereformedinshallowwaters,andthenexposedbyupheavaltosubaerialaction,allshellsandothercalcareousorganismswouldberemovedbysolution。
FollowingLyell’smethod,Darwinproceedsfromthestudyofdepositsnowbeingaccumulatedontheearth’ssurface,tothosewhichhavebeenformedduringthemorerecentperiodsofthegeologicalhistory。
HisaccountofthegreatPampeanformation,withitswonderfulmammalianremains——Mastodon,Toxodon,Scelidotherium,Macrauchenia,Megatherium,Megalonyx,Mylodon,andGlyptodon——thisfullofinterest。HisdiscoveryoftheremainsofatrueEquusaffordedaremarkableconfirmationofthefact——
alreadymadeoutinNorthAmerica——thatspeciesofhorsehadexistedandbecomeextinctintheNewWorld,beforetheirintroductionbytheSpaniardsinthesixteenthcentury。FullyperceivingtheimportanceofthemicroscopeinstudyingthenatureandoriginofsuchdepositsasthoseofthePampas,DarwinsubmittedmanyofhisspecimensbothtoDr。Carpenterinthiscountry,andtoProfessorEhrenberginBerlin。Manyveryimportantnotesonthemicroscopicorganismscontainedintheformationwillbefoundscatteredthroughthechapter。
Darwin’sstudyoftheoldertertiaryformations,withtheirabundantshells,andtheirrelicsofvegetablelifeburiedundergreatsheetsofbasalt,ledhimtoconsidercarefullythequestionofclimateduringtheseearlierperiods。Inoppositiontoprevalentviewsonthissubject,Darwinpointsoutthathisobservationsareopposedtotheconclusionthatahighertemperatureprevaileduniversallyovertheglobeduringearlygeologicalperiods。Hearguesthat“thecauseswhichgavetotheoldertertiaryproductionsofthequitetemperatezonesofEuropeatropicalcharacter,WEREOFALOCALCHARACTERANDDIDNOTAFFECTTHEWHOLEGLOBE。”
Inthis,asinmanysimilarinstances,weseethebeneficialinfluenceofextensivetravelinfreeingDarwin’smindfromprevailingprejudices。Itwasthiswideningofexperiencewhichrenderedhimsoespeciallyqualifiedtodealwiththegreatproblemoftheoriginofspecies,andindoingsotoemancipatehimselffromideaswhichwerereceivedwithunquestioningfaithbygeologistswhosestudieshadbeencircumscribedwithinthelimitsofWesternEurope。
IntheCordillerasofNorthernandCentralChili,Darwin,whenstudyingstillolderformations,clearlyrecognisedthattheycontainanadmixtureoftheformsoflife,whichinEuropearedistinctiveoftheCretaceousandJurassicperiodsrespectively。Hewasthusledtoconcludethattheclassificationofgeologicalperiods,whichfairlywellexpressesthefactsthathadbeendiscoveredintheareaswherethesciencewasfirststudied,isnolongercapableofbeingappliedwhenwecometothestudyofwidelydistantregions。Thisimportantconclusionleduptothefurthergeneralisationthateachgreatgeologicalperiodhasexhibitedageographicaldistributionoftheformsofanimalandvegetablelife,comparabletothatwhichprevailsintheexistingfaunaandflora。Tothosewhoarefamiliarwiththeextenttowhichthedoctrineofuniversalformationshasaffectedgeologicalthoughtandspeculation,bothlongbeforeandsincethetimethatDarwinwrote,theimportanceofthisnewstandpointtowhichhewasabletoattainwillbesufficientlyapparent。
LiketheideaoftheextremeimperfectionoftheGeologicalRecord,thedoctrineofLOCALgeologicalformationsisfoundpermeatingandmouldingallthepalaeontologicalreasoningsofhisgreatwork。
InoneofDarwin’sletters,writtenwhilehewasinSouthAmerica,thereisapassagewehavealreadyquoted,inwhichheexpresseshisinabilitytodecidebetweentherivalclaimsuponhisattentionof“theoldcrystallinegroupofrocks,“and“thesofterfossiliferousbeds“respectively。Thesixthchapteroftheworkbeforeus,entitled“PlutonicandMetamorphicRocks——CleavageandFoliation,“containsabriefsummaryofaseriesofobservationsandreasoningsuponthesecrystallinerocks,whichare,webelieve,calculatedtoeffectarevolutioningeologicalscience,and——
thoughtheirvalueandimportancehavelongbeenoverlooked——arelikelytoentitleDarwininthefuturetoapositionamonggeologists,scarcely,ifatall,inferiortothatwhichhealreadyoccupiesamongbiologists。
Darwin’sstudiesofthegreatrock-massesoftheAndesconvincedhimofthecloserelationsbetweenthegraniticorPlutonicrocks,andthosewhichwereundoubtedlypouredforthaslavas。Uponhisreturn,hesettowork,withtheaidofProfessorMiller,tomakeacarefulstudyofthemineralscomposingthegranitesandthosewhichoccurinthelavas,andhewasabletoshowthatinallessentialrespectstheyareidentical。Hewasfurtherabletoprovethatthereisacompletegradationbetweenthehighlycrystallineorgraniticrock-masses,andthosecontainingmoreorlessglassymatterbetweentheircrystals,whichconstituteordinarylavas。Theimportanceofthisconclusionwillberealisedwhenwerememberthatitwasthenthecommoncreedofgeologists——andstillcontinuestobesoontheContinent——thatallhighlycrystallinerocksareofgreatgeologicalantiquity,andthattheigneousejectionswhichhavetakenplacesincethebeginningofthetertiaryperiodsdifferessentially,intheircomposition,theirstructure,andtheirmodeofoccurrence,fromthosewhichhavemadetheirappearanceatearlierperiodsoftheworld’shistory。
VerycompletelyhavetheconclusionsofDarwinuponthesesubjectsbeenjustifiedbyrecentresearches。InEngland,theUnitedStates,andItaly,examplesofthegradualpassageofrocksoftrulygraniticstructureintoordinarylavashavebeendescribed,andtherealityofthetransitionhasbeendemonstratedbythemostcarefulstudieswiththemicroscope。RecentresearchescarriedoninSouthAmericabyProfessorStelzner,havealsoshowntheexistenceofaclassofhighlycrystallinerocks——the“Andengranites“——whichcombineinthemselvesmanyofthecharacteristicswhichwereoncethoughttobedistinctiveoftheso-calledPlutonicandvolcanicrocks。Noonefamiliarwithrecentgeologicalliterature——eveninGermanyandFrance,wheretheoldviewsconcerningthedistinctionofigneousproductsofdifferentageshavebeenmoststoutlymaintained——canfailtorecognisethefactthattheprinciplescontendedforbyDarwinbidfairatnodistantperiodtowinuniversalacceptanceamonggeologistsallovertheglobe。
StillmoreimportantaretheconclusionsatwhichDarwinarrivedwithrespecttotheoriginoftheschistsandgneisseswhichcoversolargeanareainSouthAmerica。
Carefullynoting,bytheaidofhiscompassandclinometer,ateverypointwhichhevisited,thedirectionandamountofinclinationoftheparalleldivisionsintheserocks,hewasledtoaveryimportantgeneralisation——
namely,thatoververywideareasthedirectionstrikeoftheplanesofcleavageinslates,andoffoliationinschistsandgneisses,remainedconstant,thoughtheamountoftheirinclinationdipoftenvariedwithinwidelimits。Furtherthanthisitappearedthattherewasalwaysaclosecorrespondencebetweenthestrikeofthecleavageandfoliationandthedirectionofthegreataxesalongwhichelevationhadtakenplaceinthedistrict。
InTierradelFuego,Darwinfoundstrikingevidencethatthecleavageintersectinggreatmassesofslate-rockswasquiteindependentoftheiroriginalstratification,andcouldoften,indeed,beseencuttingacrossitatrightangles。HewasalsoabletoverifySedgwick’sobservationthat,insomeslates,glossysurfacesontheplanesofcleavagearisefromthedevelopmentofnewminerals,chlorite,epidoteormica,andthatinthiswayacompletegraduationfromslatestotrueschistsmaybetraced。
Darwinfurthershowedthatinhighlyschistoserocks,thefoliabendaroundandencircleanyforeignbodiesinthemass,andthatinsomecasestheyexhibitthemosttortuousformsandcomplicatedpuckerings。Heclearlysawthatinallcasestheforcesbywhichthesestrikingphenomenamusthavebeenproducedwerepersistentoverwideareas,andwereconnectedwiththegreatmovementsbywhichtherockshadbeenupheavedandfolded。
Thatthedistinctfoliaofquartz,feldspar,mica,andothermineralscomposingthemetamorphicschistscouldnothavebeenseparatelydepositedassedimentwasstronglyinsisteduponbyDarwin;andindoingsoheopposedtheviewgenerallyprevalentamonggeologistsatthattime。Hewasthusdriventotheconclusionthatfoliation,likecleavage,isnotanoriginal,butasuperinducedstructureinrock-masses,andthatitistheresultofre-crystallisation,underthecontrollinginfluenceofgreatpressure,ofthematerialsofwhichtherockwascomposed。
InstudyingthelavasofAscension,aswehavealreadyseen,Darwinwasledtorecognisethecircumstancethat,whenigneousrocksaresubjectedtogreatdifferentialmovementsduringtheperiodoftheirconsolidation,theyacquireafoliatedstructure,closelyanalogoustothatofthecrystallineschists。Likehispredecessorinthisfieldofinquiry,Mr。PoulettScrope,CharlesDarwinseemstohavebeengreatlyimpressedbythesefacts,andhearguedfromthemthattherocksexhibitingthefoliatedstructuremusthavebeeninastateofplasticity,likethatofacoolingmassoflava。AtthattimethesuggestiveexperimentsofTresca,Daubree,andothers,showingthatsolidmassesundertheinfluenceofenormouspressurebecomeactuallyplastic,hadnotbeenpublished。HadDarwinbeenawareofthesefactshewouldhaveseenthatitwasnotnecessarytoassumeastateofimperfectsolidityinrock-massesinordertoaccountfortheirhavingyieldedtopressureandtension,and,indoingso,acquiringthenewcharacterswhichdistinguishthecrystallineschists。
TheviewsputforwardbyDarwinontheoriginofthecrystallineschistsfoundanableadvocateinMr。DanielSharpe,whoin1852and1854publishedtwopapers,dealingwiththegeologyoftheScottishHighlandsandoftheAlpsrespectively,inwhichheshowedthattheprinciplesarrivedatbyDarwinwhenstudyingtheSouthAmericanrocksaffordacompleteexplanationofthestructureofthetwodistrictsinquestion。
But,ontheotherhand,theconclusionsofDarwinandSharpeweremetwiththestrongestoppositionbySirRoderickMurchisonandDr。A。Geikie,whoin1861readapaperbeforetheGeologicalSociety“OntheCoincidencebetweenStratificationandFoliationintheCrystallineRocksoftheScottishHighlands,“inwhichtheyinsistedthattheirobservationsinScotlandtendedtoentirelydisprovetheconclusionsofDarwinthatfoliationinrocksisasecondarystructure,andentirelyindependentoftheoriginalstratificationoftherock-masses。
Nowitisamostsignificantcircumstancethat,nosoonerdidtheofficersoftheGeologicalSurveycommencethecarefulanddetailedstudyoftheScottishHighlandsthantheyfoundthemselvescompelledtomakeaformalretractionoftheviewswhichhadbeenputforwardbyMurchisonandGeikieinoppositiontotheconclusionsofDarwin。TheofficersoftheGeologicalSurveyhavecompletelyabandonedtheviewthatthefoliationoftheHighlandrockshasbeendeterminedbytheiroriginalstratification,andadmitthatthestructureistheresultoftheprofoundmovementstowhichtherockshavebeensubjected。Thesameconclusionshaverecentlybeensupportedbyobservationsmadeinmanydifferentdistricts——amongwhichwemayespeciallyrefertothoseofDr。H。ReuschinNorway,andthoseofDr。
J。LehmanninSaxony。AtthepresenttimetheargumentssoclearlystatedbyDarwinintheworkbeforeus,have,afterenduringoppositionorneglectforawholegeneration,begunto“triumphallalongtheline,“andwemaylookforwardconfidentlytothenearfuture,whenhisclaimtoberegardedasoneofthegreatestofgeologicaldiscoverersshallbefullyvindicated。
JOHNW。JUDD。
CHAPTERI。ONTHEELEVATIONOFTHEEASTERNCOASTOFSOUTHAMERICA。
UpraisedshellsofLaPlata。
BahiaBlanca,Sand-dunesandPumice-pebbles。
Step-formedplainsofPatagonia,withupraisedShells。
Terrace-boundedValleyofSantaCruz,formerlyaSea-strait。
UpraisedshellsofTierradelFuego。
Lengthandbreadthoftheelevatedarea。
Equabilityofthemovements,asshownbythesimilarheightsoftheplains。
Slownessoftheelevatoryprocess。
Modeofformationofthestep-formedplains。
Summary。
GreatShingleFormationofPatagonia;itsextent,origin,anddistribution。
Formationofsea-cliffs。
InthefollowingVolume,whichtreatsofthegeologyofSouthAmerica,andalmostexclusivelyofthepartssouthwardoftheTropicofCapricorn,I
havearrangedthechaptersaccordingtotheageofthedeposits,occasionallydepartingfromthisorder,forthesakeofgeographicalsimplicity。
Theelevationofthelandwithintherecentperiod,andthemodificationsofitssurfacethroughtheactionoftheseatowhichsubjectsIpaidparticularattentionwillbefirstdiscussed;Iwillthenpassontothetertiarydeposits,andafterwardstotheolderrocks。Onlythosedistrictsandsectionswillbedescribedindetailwhichappeartometodeservesomeparticularattention;andIwill,attheendofeachchapter,giveasummaryoftheresults。Wewillcommencewiththeproofsoftheupheavaloftheeasterncoastofthecontinent,fromtheRioPlatasouthward;and,intheSecondChapter,followupthesamesubjectalongtheshoresofChileandPeru。
OnthenorthernbankofthegreatestuaryoftheRioPlata,nearMaldonado,Ifoundattheheadofalake,sometimesbrackishbutgenerallycontainingfreshwater,abedofmuddyclay,sixfeetinthickness,withnumerousshellsofspeciesstillexistinginthePlata,namely,theAzaralabiata,d’Orbigny,fragmentsofMytiluseduliformis,d’Orbigny,PaludestrinaIsabellei,d’Orbigny,andtheSolenCaribaeus,Lam。whichlastwasembeddedverticallyinthepositioninwhichithadlived。Theseshellslieattheheightofonlytwofeetabovethelake,norwouldtheyhavebeenworthmentioning,exceptinconnectionwithanalogousfacts。
AtMonteVideo,Inoticednearthetown,andalongthebaseofthemount,bedsofalivingMytilus,raisedsomefeetabovethesurfaceofthePlata:
inasimilarbed,ataheightfromthirteentosixteenfeet,M。Isabellecollectedeightspecies,which,accordingtoM。d’Orbigny,nowliveatthemouthoftheestuary。“Voyagedansl’AmeriqueMerid。:Part。Geolog。”page21。AtColoniadelSacramiento,furtherwestward,Iobservedattheheightofaboutfifteenfeetabovetheriver,thereofquitefreshwater,asmallbedofthesameMytilus,whichlivesinbrackishwateratMonteVideo。NearthemouthofUruguay,andforatleastthirty-fivemilesnorthward,thereareatintervalslargesandytracts,extendingseveralmilesfromthebanksoftheriver,butnotraisedmuchaboveitslevel,aboundingwithsmallbivalves,whichoccurinsuchnumbersthatattheAgraciadotheyaresiftedandburntforlime。ThosewhichIexaminedneartheA。S。Juanweremuchworn:theyconsistedofMactraIsabellei,d’Orbigny,mingledwithfewofVenussinuosa,Lam。bothinhabiting,asIaminformedbyM。d’Orbigny,brackishwateratthemouthofthePlata,nearlyorquiteassaltastheopensea。Theloosesand,inwhichtheseshellsarepacked,isheapedintolow,straight,longlinesofdunes,likethoseleftbytheseaattheheadofmanybays。M。d’Orbignyhasdescribedananalogousphenomenononagreaterscale,nearSanPedroontheriverParana,wherehefoundwidelyextendedbedsandhillocksofsand,withvastnumbersoftheAzaralabiata,attheheightofnearly100feetEnglishabovethesurfaceofthatriver。
Ibidpage43。TheAzarainhabitsbrackishwater,andisnotknowntobefoundnearertoSanPedrothanBuenosAyres,distantaboveahundredmilesinastraightline。NearerBuenosAyres,ontheroadfromthatplacetoSanIsidro,thereareextensivebeds,asIaminformedbySirWoodbineParish,oftheAzaralabiata,lyingataboutfortyfeetabovetheleveloftheriver,anddistantbetweentwoandthreemilesfromit。“BuenosAyres“
etc。bySirWoodbineParishpage168。Theseshellsarealwaysfoundonthehighestbanksinthedistrict:theyareembeddedinastratifiedearthymass,preciselylikethatofthegreatPampeandeposithereaftertobedescribed。Inonecollectionoftheseshells,thereweresomevalvesoftheVenussinuosa,Lam。thesamespeciesfoundwiththeMactraonthebanksoftheUruguay。SouthofBuenosAyres,nearEnsenada,thereareotherbedsoftheAzara,someofwhichseemtohavebeenembeddedinyellowish,calcareous,semi-crystallinematter;andSirW。ParishhasgivenmefromthebanksoftheArroyodelTristan,situatedinthissameneighbourhood,atthedistanceofaboutaleaguefromthePlata,aspecimenofapale-
reddish,calcereo-argillaceousstonepreciselylikepartsofthePampeandeposittheimportanceofwhichfactwillbereferredtoinasucceedingchapter,aboundingwithshellsofanAzara,muchworn,butwhichingeneralformandappearancecloselyresemble,andareprobablyidenticalwith,theA。labiata。Besidestheseshells,cellular,highlycrystallinerock,formedofthecastsofsmallbivalves,isfoundnearEnsenada;andlikewisebedsofsea-shells,whichfromtheirappearanceappeartohavelainonthesurface。SirW。Parishhasgivenmesomeoftheseshells,andM。d’Orbignypronouncesthemtobe:——
1。Buccinanopsglobulosum,d’Orbigny。
2。Olivancillariaauricularia,d’Orbigny。
3。Venusflexuosa,Lam。
4。Cytheraeaimperfect。
5。MactraIsabellei,d’Orbigny。
6。Ostreapulchella,d’Orbigny。
Besidesthese,SirW。Parishprocured“BuenosAyres“etc。bySirW。Parishpage168。asnamedbyMr。G。B。Sowerbythefollowingshells:——
7。Volutacolocynthis。
8。Volutaangulata。
9。Buccinumnotspec。?。
Allthesespecieswith,perhaps,theexceptionofthelastarerecent,andliveontheSouthAmericancoast。Theseshell-bedsextendfromoneleaguetosixleaguesfromthePlata,andmustliemanyfeetaboveitslevel。Iheard,also,ofbedsofshellsontheSomborombon,andontheRioSalado,atwhichlatterplace,asM。d’Orbignyinformsme,theMactraIsabelleiandVenussinuosaarefound。
DuringtheelevationoftheProvincesofLaPlata,thewatersoftheancientestuaryhavebutlittleaffectedwiththeexceptionofthesand-
hillsonthebanksoftheParanaandUruguaytheoutlineoftheland。M。
Parchappe,however,hasdescribedgroupsofsanddunesscatteredoverthewideextentofthePampassouthwardofBuenosAyresD’Orbigny“VoyageGeolog。”page44。,whichM。d’Orbignyattributeswithmuchprobabilitytotheactionofthesea,beforetheplainswereraisedaboveitslevel。
BeforeproceedingtothedistrictssouthwardofLaPlata,itmaybeworthwhilejusttostate,thatthereissomeevidencethatthecoastofBrazilhasparticipatedinasmallamountofelevation。Mr。Burchellinformsme,thathecollectedatSantoslatitude24degreesS。oyster-shells,apparentlyrecent,somemilesfromtheshore,andquiteabovethetidalaction。WestwardofRiodeJaneiro,CaptainElliotisassertedseeHarlan“Med。andPhys。Res。”page35andDr。Meigsin“TransactionsoftheAmericanPhilosophicalSociety“,tohavefoundhumanbones,encrustedwithsea-shells,betweenfifteenandtwentyfeetabovethelevelofthesea。
BetweenRiodeJaneiroandCapeFrioIcrossedsandytractsaboundingwithsea-shells,atadistanceofaleaguefromthecoast;butwhetherthesetractshavebeenformedbyupheaval,orthroughthemereaccumulationofdriftsand,Iamnotpreparedtoassert。AtBahialatitude13degreesS。,insomepartsnearthecoast,therearetracesofsea-actionattheheightofabouttwentyfeetaboveitspresentlevel;therearealso,inmanyparts,remnantsofbedsofsandstoneandconglomeratewithnumerousrecentshells,raisedalittleabovethesea-level。Imayadd,thatattheheadofBahiaBaythereisaformation,aboutfortyfeetinthickness,containingtertiaryshellsapparentlyoffresh-waterorigin,nowwashedbytheseaandencrustedwithBalini;thisappearstoindicateasmallamountofsubsidencesubsequenttoitsdeposition。AtPernambucolatitude8degreesS。,inthealluvialortertiarycliffs,surroundingthelowlandonwhichthecitystands,Ilookedinvainfororganicremains,orotherevidenceofchangesinlevel。
SOUTHWARDOFTHEPLATA。
ThecoastasfarasBahiaBlancainlatitude39degreesS。isformedeitherofahorizontalrangeofcliffs,orofimmenseaccumulationsofsand-dunes。WithinBahiaBlanca,asmallpieceoftableland,abouttwentyfeetabovehigh-watermark,calledPuntaAlta,isformedofstrataofcementedgravelandofredearthymud,aboundingwithshellswithotherslyinglooseonthesurface,andthebonesofextinctmammifers。Theseshells,twentyinnumber,togetherwithaBalanusandtwocorals,areallrecentspecies,stillinhabitingtheneighbouringseas。TheywillbeenumeratedintheFourthChapter,whendescribingthePampeanformation;
fiveofthemareidenticalwiththeupraisedonesfromnearBuenosAyres。
ThenorthernshoreofBahiaBlancais,inmainpart,formedofimmensesand-dunes,restingongravelwithrecentshells,andranginginlinesparalleltotheshore。Theserangesareseparatedfromeachotherbyflatspaces,composedofstiffimpureredclay,inwhich,atthedistanceofabouttwomilesfromthecoast,Ifoundbydiggingafewminutefragmentsofsea-shells。Thesand-dunesextendseveralmilesinland,andstandonaplain,whichslopesuptoaheightofbetweenonehundredandtwohundredfeet。Numerous,small,well-roundedpebblesofpumiceliescatteredbothontheplainandsand-hillocks:atMonteHermoso,ontheflatsummitofacliff,Ifoundmanyofthemataheightof120feetangularmeasurement
abovethelevelofthesea。Thesepumicepebbles,nodoubt,wereoriginallybroughtdownfromtheCordillerabytheriverswhichcrossthecontinent,inthesamewayastheriverNegroancientlybroughtdown,andstillbringsdown,pumice,andastheriverChupatbringsdownscoriae:whenoncedeliveredatthemouthofariver,theywouldnaturallyhavetravelledalongthecoasts,andbeencastupduringtheelevationoftheland,atdifferentheights。Theoriginoftheargillaceousflats,whichseparatetheparallelrangesofsand-dunes,seemsduetothetidesherehavingatendencyasIbelievetheyhaveonmostshoal,protectedcoaststothrowupabarparalleltotheshore,andatsomedistancefromit;thisbargraduallybecomeslarger,affordingabasefortheaccumulationofsand-
dunes,andtheshallowspacewithinthenbecomessiltedupwithmud。Therepetitionofthisprocess,withoutanyelevationoftheland,wouldformalevelplaintraversedbyparallellinesofsand-hillocks;duringaslowelevationoftheland,thehillockswouldrestonagentlyinclinedsurface,likethatonthenorthernshoreofBahiaBlanca。Ididnotobserveanyshellsinthisneighbourhoodatagreaterheightthantwentyfeet;andthereforetheageofthesea-driftedpebblesofpumice,nowstandingattheheightof120feet,mustremainuncertain。
ThemainplainsurroundingBahiaBlancaIestimatedatfromtwohundredtothreehundredfeet;itinsensiblyrisestowardsthedistantSierraVentana。
Thereareinthisneighbourhoodsomeotherandlowerplains,buttheydonotabutoneatthefootoftheother,inthemannerhereaftertobedescribed,socharacteristicofPatagonia。Theplainonwhichthesettlementstandsiscrossedbymanylowsand-dunes,aboundingwiththeminuteshellsofthePaludestrinaaustralis,d’Orbigny,whichnowlivesinthebay。Thislowplainisboundedtothesouth,attheCabezadelBuey,bythecliff-formedmarginofawideplainofthePampeanformation,whichI
estimatedatsixtyfeetinheight。Onthesummitofthiscliffthereisarangeofhighsand-dunesextendingseveralmilesinaneastandwestline。
SouthwardofBahiaBlanca,theriverColoradoflowsbetweentwoplains,apparentlyfromthirtytofortyfeetinheight。Oftheseplains,thesouthernoneslopesuptothefootofthegreatsandstoneplateauoftheRioNegro;andthenorthernoneagainstanescarpmentofthePampeandeposit;sothattheColoradoflowsinavalleyfiftymilesinwidth,betweentheupperescarpments。Istatethis,becauseonthelowplainatthefootofthenorthernescarpment,Icrossedanimmenseaccumulationofhighsand-dunes,estimatedbytheGauchosatnolessthaneightmilesinbreadth。Thesedunesrangewestwardfromthecoast,whichistwentymilesdistant,tofarinland,inlinesparalleltothevalley;theyareseparatedfromeachotherbyargillaceousflats,preciselylikethoseonthenorthernshoreofBahiaBlanca。Atpresentthereisnosourcewhencethisimmenseaccumulationofsandcouldproceed;butif,asIbelieve,theupperescarpmentsonceformedtheshoresofanestuary,inthatcasethesandstoneformationoftheriverNegrowouldhaveaffordedaninexhaustiblesupplyofsand,whichwouldnaturallyhaveaccumulatedonthenorthernshore,asoneverypartofthecoastopentothesouthwindsbetweenBahiaBlancaandBuenosAyres。
AtSanBlas40degrees40’S。alittlesouthofthemouthoftheColorado,M。d’OrbignyfoundfourteenspeciesofexistingshellssixofthemidenticalwiththosefromBahiaBlanca,embeddedintheirnaturalpositions。“Voyage“etc。page54。Fromthezoneofdepthwhichtheseshellsareknowntoinhabit,theymusthavebeenupliftedthirty-twofeet。
Healsofound,atfromfifteentotwentyfeetabovethisbed,theremainsofanancientbeach。
Tenmilessouthward,but120milestothewest,atPortS。Antonio,theOfficersemployedontheSurveyassuredmethattheysawmanyoldsea-
shellsstrewedonthesurfaceoftheground,similartothosefoundonotherpartsofthecoastofPatagonia。AtSanJosef,ninetymilessouthinnearlythesamelongitude,Ifound,abovethegravel,whichcapsanoldtertiaryformation,anirregularbedandhillockofsand,severalfeetinthickness,aboundingwithshellsofPatelladeaurita,MytilusMagellanicus,thelatterretainingmuchofitscolour;FususMagellanicusandavarietyofthesame,andalargeBalanusprobablyB。Tulipa,allnowfoundonthiscoast:Iestimatedthisbedatfromeightytoonehundredfeetabovethelevelofthesea。Tothewestwardofthisbay,thereisaplainestimatedatbetweentwohundredandthreehundredfeetinheight:thisplainseems,frommanymeasurements,tobeacontinuationofthesandstoneplatformoftheriverNegro。Thenextplacesouthward,whereIlanded,wasatPortDesire,340milesdistant;butfromtheintermediatedistrictsI
received,throughthekindnessoftheOfficersoftheSurvey,especiallyfromLieutenantStokesandMr。King,manyspecimensandsketches,quitesufficienttoshowthegeneraluniformityofthewholelineofcoast。Imayherestate,thatthewholeofPatagoniaconsistsofatertiaryformation,restingonandsometimessurroundinghillsofporphyryandquartz:thesurfaceiswornintomanywidevalleysandintolevelstep-formedplains,risingoneaboveanother,allcappedbyirregularbedsofgravel,chieflycomposedofporphyriticrocks。Thisgravelformationwillbeseparatelydescribedattheendofthechapter。
Myobjectingivingthefollowingmeasurementsoftheplains,astakenbytheOfficersoftheSurvey,is,aswillhereafterbeseen,toshowtheremarkableequabilityoftherecentelevatorymovements。RoundthesouthernpartsofNuevoGulf,asfarastheRiverChupatseventymilessouthwardofSanJosef,thereappeartobeseveralplains,ofwhichthebestdefinedarehererepresented。
InthefollowingDiagrams:
1。BaselineisLevelofsea。
2。Scaleis1/20ofinchto100feetvertical。
3。Heightisshowninfeetthus:
An。M。alwaysstandsforangularortrigonometricalmeasurement。
Ba。M。alwaysstandsforbarometricalmeasurement。
Est。alwaysstandsforestimationbytheOfficersoftheSurvey。
DIAGRAM1。SECTIONOFSTEP-FORMEDPLAINSSOUTHOFNUEVOGULF。
>FromEastsealeveltoWesthigh:
Terrace1。80Est。
Terrace2。200-220An。M。
Terrace3。350An。M。
TheupperplainisherewelldefinedcalledTableHills;itsedgeformsaclifforlineofescarpmentmanymilesinlength,projectingoveralowerplain。ThelowestplaincorrespondswiththatatSanJosefwiththerecentshellsonitssurface。Betweenthislowestandtheuppermostplain,thereisprobablymorethanonestep-formedterrace:severalmeasurementsshowtheexistenceoftheintermediateoneoftheheightgiveninDiagram1。
DIAGRAM2。SECTIONOFPLAINSINTHEBAYOFST。GEORGE。
>FromEastsealeveltoWesthigh:
Terrace1。250An。M。
Terrace2。330An。M。
Terrace3。580An。M。
Terraces4,5and6notmeasured。
Terrace7。1,200Est。
NearthenorthheadlandofthegreatBayofSt。George100milessouthoftheChupat,twowell-markedplainsof250and330feetweremeasured:
thesearesaidtosweeproundagreatpartoftheBay。Atitssouthheadland,120milesdistantfromthenorthheadland,the250feetplainwasagainmeasured。Inthemiddleofthebay,ahigherplainwasfoundattwoneighbouringplacesTilliRoadsandC。Marquestobe580feetinheight。
Abovethisplain,towardstheinterior,Mr。Stokesinformsmethattherewereseveralotherstep-formedplains,thehighestofwhichwasestimatedat1,200feet,andwasseenrangingatapparentlythesameheightfor150
milesnorthward。Alltheseplainshavebeenwornintogreatvalleysandmuchdenuded。Thesectionin,Diagram3isillustrativeofthegeneralstructureofthegreatBayofSt。George。AtthesouthheadlandoftheBayofSt。GeorgenearC。ThreePointsthe250plainisveryextensive。
DIAGRAM3。SECTIONOFPLAINSATPORTDESIRE。
>FromEastsealeveltoWesthigh:
Terrace1。100Est。
Terrace2。245-255Ba。M。Shellsonsurface。
Terrace3。330Ba。M。Shellsonsurface。
Terrace4。Notmeasured。
AtPortDesirefortymilessouthwardImadeseveralmeasurementswiththebarometerofaplain,whichextendsalongthenorthsideoftheportandalongtheopencoast,andwhichvariesfrom245to255feetinheight:thisplainabutsagainstthefootofahigherplainof330feet,whichextendsalsofarnorthwardalongthecoast,andlikewiseintotheinterior。Inthedistanceahigherinlandplatformwasseen,ofwhichIdonotknowtheheight。Inthreeseparateplaces,Iobservedthecliffofthe245-255feetplain,fringedbyaterraceornarrowplainestimatedataboutonehundredfeetinheight。TheseplainsarerepresentedinthesectionDiagram3。
Inmanyplaces,evenatthedistanceofthreeandfourmilesfromthecoast,Ifoundonthegravel-cappedsurfaceofthe245-255feet,andofthe330feetplain,shellsofMytilusMagellanicus,M。edulis,Patelladeaurita,andanotherPatella,toomuchworntobeidentified,butapparentlysimilartoonefoundabundantlyadheringtotheleavesofthekelp。Thesespeciesarethecommonestnowlivingonthiscoast。Theshellsallappearedveryold;theblueofthemusselswasmuchfaded;andonlytracesofcolourcouldbeperceivedinthePatellas,ofwhichtheoutersurfaceswerescalingoff。Theylayscatteredonthesmoothsurfaceofthegravel,butaboundedmostincertainpatches,especiallyattheheadsofthesmallervalleys:theygenerallycontainedsandintheirinsides;andI
presumethattheyhavebeenwashedbyalluvialactionoutofthinsandylayers,tracesofwhichmaysometimesbeseencoveringthegravel。Theseveralplainshaveverylevelsurfaces;butallarescoopedoutbynumerousbroad,winding,flat-bottomedvalleys,inwhich,judgingfromthebushes,streamsneverflow。Theseremarksonthestateoftheshells,andonthenatureoftheplains,applytothefollowingcases,soneednotberepeated。
DIAGRAM4。SECTIONOFPLAINSATPORTS。JULIAN。
>FromEastsealeveltoWesthigh:
Terrace1。Shellsonsurface。90Est。
Terrace2。430An。M。
Terrace3。560An。M。
Terrace4。950An。M。
SouthwardofPortDesire,theplainshavebeengreatlydenuded,withonlysmallpiecesoftablelandmarkingtheirformerextension。ButoppositeBirdIsland,twoconsiderablestep-formedplainsweremeasured,andfoundrespectivelytobe350and590feetinheight。ThislatterplainextendsalongthecoastclosetoPortSt。Julian110milessouthofPortDesire;
seeDiagram4。
Thelowestplainwasestimatedatninetyfeet:itisremarkablefromtheusualgravel-bedbeingdeeplywornintohollows,whicharefilledupwith,aswellasthegeneralsurfacecoveredby,sandyandreddishearthymatter:
inoneofthehollowsthusfilledup,theskeletonoftheMacraucheniaPatachonica,aswillhereafterbedescribed,wasembedded。Onthesurfaceandintheupperpartsofthisearthymass,therewerenumerousshellsofMytilusMagellanicusandM。edulis,Patelladeaurita,andfragmentsofotherspecies。Thisplainistolerablylevel,butnotextensive;itformsapromontorysevenoreightmileslong,andthreeorfourwide。TheupperplainsinDiagram4weremeasuredbytheOfficersoftheSurvey;theywereallcappedbythickbedsofgravel,andwereallmoreorlessdenuded;the950plainconsistsmerelyofseparate,truncated,gravel-cappedhills,twoofwhich,bymeasurement,werefoundtodifferonlythreefeet。The430
feetplainextends,apparentlywithhardlyabreak,tonearthenorthernentranceoftheRioSantaCruzfiftymilestothesouth;butitwastherefoundtobeonly330feetinheight。
DIAGRAM5。SECTIONOFPLAINSATTHEMOUTHOFTHERIOSANTACRUZ。
>FromEastsealeveltoWesthigh:
Terrace1。sloping355Ba。M。Shellsonsurface。463Ba。M。
Terrace2。710An。M。
Terrace3。840An。M。
OnthesouthernsideofthemouthoftheSantaCruzwehaveDiagram5,whichIamabletogivewithmoredetailthanintheforegoingcases。
Theplainmarked355feetasascertainedbythebarometerandbyangularmeasurementisacontinuationoftheabove-mentioned330feetplain:itextendsinaN。W。directionalongthesouthernshoresoftheestuary。Itiscappedbygravel,whichinmostpartsiscoveredbyathinbedofsandyearth,andisscoopedoutbymanyflat-bottomedvalleys。Itappearstotheeyequitelevel,butinproceedinginaS。S。W。course,towardsanescarpmentdistantaboutsixmiles,andlikewiserangingacrossthecountryinaN。W。line,itwasfoundtoriseatfirstinsensibly,andthenforthelasthalf-mile,sensibly,closeuptothebaseoftheescarpment:atthispointitwas463feetinheight,showingariseof108feetinthesixmiles。Onthis355-463feetplain,IfoundseveralshellsofMytilusMagellanicusandofaMytilus,whichMr。Sowerbyinformsmeisyetunnamed,thoughwell-knownasrecentonthiscoast;Patelladeaurita;Fusus,I
believe,Magellanicus,butthespecimenhasbeenlost;andatthedistanceoffourmilesfromthecoast,attheheightofaboutfourhundredfeet,therewerefragmentsofthesamePatellaandofaVolutaapparentlyV。
ancillapartiallyembeddedinthesuperficialsandyearth。Alltheseshellshadthesameancientappearancewiththosefromtheforegoinglocalities。AsthetidesalongthispartofthecoastriseattheSyzygalperiodfortyfeet,andthereforeformawell-markedbeach-line,I
particularlylookedoutforridgesincrossingthisplain,which,aswehaveseen,rises108feetinaboutsixmiles,butIcouldnotseeanytracesofsuch。Thenexthighestplainis710feetabovethesea;itisverynarrow,butlevel,andiscappedwithgravel;itabutstothefootofthe840feetplain。Thissummit-plainextendsasfarastheeyecanrange,bothinlandalongthesouthernsideofthevalleyoftheSantaCruz,andsouthwardalongtheAtlantic。
THEVALLEYOFTHER。SANTACRUZ。
ThisvalleyrunsinaneastandwestdirectiontotheCordillera,adistanceofaboutonehundredandsixtymiles。ItcutsthroughthegreatPatagoniantertiaryformation,including,intheupperhalfofthevalley,immensestreamsofbasalticlava,whichaswellasthesofterbeds,arecappedbygravel;andthisgravel,highuptheriver,isassociatedwithavastboulderformation。Ihavedescribedthisformationinapaperinthe“GeologicalTransactions“volume6page415。Inascendingthevalley,theplainwhichatthemouthonthesouthernsideis355feethigh,isseentotrendtowardsthecorrespondingplainonthenorthernside,sothattheirescarpmentsappearliketheshoresofaformerestuary,largerthantheexistingone:theescarpments,also,ofthe840feetsummit-plainwithacorrespondingnorthernone,whichismetwithsomewayupthevalley,appearliketheshoresofastilllargerestuary。Fartherupthevalley,thesidesareboundedthroughoutitsentirelengthbylevel,gravel-cappedterraces,risingaboveeachotherinsteps。Thewidthbetweentheupperescarpmentsisonanaveragebetweensevenandtenmiles;inonespot,however,wherecuttingthroughthebasalticlava,itwasonlyonemileandahalf。Betweentheescarpmentsofthesecondhighestterracetheaveragewidthisaboutfourorfivemiles。Thebottomofthevalley,atthedistanceof110milesfromitsmouth,beginssensiblytoexpand,andsoonformsaconsiderableplain,440feetabovethelevelofthesea,throughwhichtheriverflowsinagutfromtwentytofortyfeetindepth。Iherefound,atapoint140milesfromtheAtlantic,andseventymilesfromthenearestcreekofthePacific,attheheightof410feet,averyoldandwornshellofPatelladeaurita。Lowerdownthevalley,105milesfromtheAtlanticlongitude71degreesW。,andatanelevationofabout300feet,Ialsofound,inthebedoftheriver,twomuchwornandbrokenshellsoftheVolutaancilla,stillretainingtracesoftheircolours;andoneofthePatelladeaurita。Itappearedthattheseshellshadbeenwashedfromthebanksintotheriver;consideringthedistancefromthesea,thedesertandabsolutelyunfrequentedcharacterofthecountry,andtheveryancientappearanceoftheshellsexactlylikethosefoundontheplainsnearerthecoast,thereis,Ithink,nocausetosuspectthattheycouldhavebeenbroughtherebyIndians。
Theplainattheheadofthevalleyistolerablylevel,butwater-worn,andwithmanysand-dunesonitlikethoseonasea-coast。Atthehighestpointtowhichweascended,itwassixteenmileswideinanorthandsouthline;
andforty-fivemilesinlengthinaneastandwestline。Itisborderedbytheescarpments,oneabovetheother,oftwoplains,whichdivergeastheyapproachtheCordillera,andconsequentlyresemble,attwolevels,theshoresofgreatbaysfacingthemountains;andthesemountainsarebreachedinfrontofthelowerplainbyaremarkablegap。Thevalley,therefore,oftheSantaCruzconsistsofastraightbroadcut,aboutninetymilesinlength,borderedbygravel-cappedterracesandplains,theescarpmentsofwhichatbothendsdivergeorexpand,oneovertheother,afterthemanneroftheshoresofgreatbays。Bearinginmindthispeculiarformoftheland——thesand-dunesontheplainattheheadofthevalley——thegapintheCordillera,infrontofit——thepresenceintwoplacesofveryancientshellsofexistingspecies——andlastly,thecircumstanceofthe355-453
feetplain,withthenumerousmarineremainsonitssurface,sweepingfromtheAtlanticcoast,farupthevalley,Ithinkwemustadmit,thatwithintherecentperiod,thecourseoftheSantaCruzformedasea-straitintersectingthecontinent。Atthisperiod,thesouthernpartofSouthAmericaconsistedofanarchipelagoofislands360milesinanorthandsouthline。Weshallpresentlysee,thattwootherstraitsalso,sinceclosed,thencutthroughTierradelFuego;Imayadd,thatoneofthemmustatthattimehaveexpandedatthefootoftheCordilleraintoagreatbaynowOtwayWaterlikethatwhichformerlycoveredthe440feetplainattheheadoftheSantaCruz。
DIAGRAM6。NORTHANDSOUTHSECTIONACROSSTHETERRACESBOUNDINGTHEVALLEY
OFTHERIVERSANTACRUZ,HIGHUPITSCOURSE。
Theheightofeachterrace,abovetheleveloftheriverfurthesttonearesttotheriverinfeet:
A,northandsouth:1,122
B,northandsouth:869
C,northandsouth:639
D,north:notmeasured。D,north?suggestsouth:185
E:20
BedofRiver。
Verticalscale1/20ofinchto100feet;butterraceE,beingonlytwentyfeetabovetheriver,hasnecessarilybeenraised。Thehorizontaldistancesmuchcontracted;thedistancefromtheedgeofANorthtoASouthbeingonanaveragefromseventotenmiles。
Ihavesaidthatthevalleyinitswholecourseisborderedbygravel-
cappedplains。ThesectionDiagram6,supposedtobedrawninanorthandsouthlineacrossthevalley,canscarcelybeconsideredasmorethanillustrative;forduringourhurriedascentitwasimpossibletomeasurealltheplainsatanyoneplace。AtapointnearlymidwaybetweentheCordilleraandtheAtlantic,IfoundtheplainAnorth1,122feetabovetheriver;allthelowerplainsonthissidewerehereunitedintoonegreatbrokencliff:atapointsixteenmileslowerdownthestream,IfoundbymeasurementandestimationthatBnorthwas869abovetheriver:veryneartowhereAnorthwasmeasured,Cnorthwas639abovethesamelevel:theterraceDnorthwasnowheremeasured:thelowestEnorthwasinmanyplacesabouttwentyfeetabovetheriver。Theseplainsorterraceswerebestdevelopedwherethevalleywaswidest;thewholefive,likegiganticsteps,occurredtogetheronlyatafewpoints。Thelowerterracesarelesscontinuousthanthehigherones,andappeartobeentirelylostintheupperthirdofthevalley。TerraceCsouth,howeverwastracedcontinuouslyforagreatdistance。TheterraceBnorth,atapointfifty-
fivemilesfromthemouthoftheriver,wasfourmilesinwidth;higherupthevalleythisterraceoratleastthesecondhighestone,forIcouldnotalwaystraceitcontinuouslywasabouteightmileswide。Thissecondplainwasgenerallywiderthanthelowerones——asindeedfollowsfromthevalleyfromAnorthtoAsouthbeinggenerallynearlydoublethewidthoffromBnorthtoBsouth。Lowdownthevalley,thesummit-plainA
southiscontinuouswiththe840feetplainonthecoast,butitissoonlostoruniteswiththeescarpmentofBsouth。ThecorrespondingplainA
north,onthenorthsideofthevalley,appearstorangecontinuouslyfromtheCordilleratotheheadofthepresentestuaryoftheSantaCruz,whereittrendsnorthwardtowardsPortSt。Julian。NeartheCordillerathesummit-plainonbothsidesofthevalleyisbetween3,200and3,300feetinheight;at100milesfromtheAtlantic,itis1,416feet,andonthecoast840feet,allabovethesea-beach;sothatinadistanceof100milestheplainrises576feet,andmuchmorerapidlyneartotheCordillera。ThelowerterracesBandCalsoappeartoriseastheyrunupthevalley;thusDnorth,measuredattwopointstwenty-fourmilesapart,wasfoundtohaverisen185feet。FromseveralreasonsIsuspect,thatthisgradualinclinationoftheplainsupthevalley,hasbeenchieflycausedbytheelevationofthecontinentinmass,havingbeenthegreaterthenearertotheCordillera。
Alltheterracesarecappedwithwell-roundedgravel,whichrestseitheronthedenudedandsometimesfurrowedsurfaceofthesofttertiarydeposits,oronthebasalticlava。Thedifferenceinheightbetweensomeofthelowerstepsorterracesseemstobeentirelyowingtoadifferenceinthethicknessofthecappinggravel。Furrowsandinequalitiesinthegravel,wheresuchoccur,arefilledupandsmoothedoverwithsandyearth。Thepebbles,especiallyonthehigherplains,areoftenwhitewashed,andevencementedtogetherbyawhitealuminoussubstance,andIoccasionallyfoundthistobethecasewiththegravelontheterraceD。Icouldnotperceiveanytraceofasimilardepositiononthepebblesnowthrownupbytheriver,andthereforeIdonotthinkthatterraceDwasriver-formed。AstheterraceEgenerallystandsabouttwentyfeetabovethebedoftheriver,myfirstimpressionwastodoubtwhethereventhislowestonecouldhavebeensoformed;butitshouldalwaysbeborneinmind,thatthehorizontalupheavalofadistrict,byincreasingthetotaldescentofthestreams,willalwaystendtoincrease,firstnearthesea-coastandthenfurtherandfurtherupthevalley,theircorrodinganddeepeningpowers:sothatanalluvialplain,formedalmostonalevelwithastream,will,afteranelevationofthiskind,intimebecutthrough,andleftstandingataheightneveragaintobereachedbythewater。WithrespecttothethreeupperterracesoftheSantaCruz,Ithinktherecanbenodoubt,thattheyweremodelledbythesea,whenthevalleywasoccupiedbyastrait,inthesamemannerhereaftertobediscussedasthegreaterstep-formed,shell-
strewedplainsalongthecoastofPatagonia。
ToreturntotheshoresoftheAtlantic:the840feetplain,atthemouthoftheSantaCruz,isseenextendinghorizontallyfartothesouth;andI
aminformedbytheOfficersoftheSurvey,thatbendingroundtheheadofCoyInletsixty-fivemilessouthward,ittrendsinland。Outliersofapparentlythesameheightareseenfortymilesfarthersouth,inlandoftheriverGallegos;andaplaincomesdowntoCapeGregorythirty-fivemilessouthward,intheStraitofMagellan,whichwasestimatedatbetweeneighthundredandonethousandfeetinheight,andwhich,risingtowardstheinterior,iscappedbytheboulderformation。SouthoftheStraitofMagellan,therearelargeoutlyingmassesofapparentlythesamegreattableland,extendingatintervalsalongtheeasterncoastofTierradelFuego:attwoplaceshere,110milesapart,thisplainwasfoundtobe950
and970feetinheight。