Onemorningtheviewwassingularlyclear;thedistantmountainsbeingprojectedwiththesharpestoutlineonaheavybankofdarkblueclouds。
  Judgingfromtheappearance,andfromsimilarcasesinEngland,Isupposedthattheairwassaturatedwithmoisture。Thefact,however,turnedoutquitethecontrary。Thehygrometergaveadifferenceof29。6degs。,betweenthetemperatureoftheair,andthepointatwhichdewwasprecipitated。
  ThisdifferencewasnearlydoublethatwhichIhadobservedonthepreviousmornings。Thisunusualdegreeofatmosphericdrynesswasaccompaniedbycontinualflashesoflightning。Isitnotanuncommoncase,thustofindaremarkabledegreeofaerialtransparencywithsuchastateofweather?
  Generallytheatmosphereishazy;andthisiscausedbythefallingofimpalpablyfinedust,whichwasfoundtohaveslightlyinjuredtheastronomicalinstruments。ThemorningbeforeweanchoredatPortoPraya,Icollectedalittlepacketofthisbrown-colouredfinedust,whichappearedtohavebeenfilteredfromthewindbythegauzeofthevaneatthemasthead。Mr。Lyellhasalsogivenmefourpacketsofdustwhichfellonavesselafewhundredmilesnorthwardoftheseislands。ProfessorEhrenberg[note3]findsthatthisdustconsistsingreatpartofinfusoriawithsiliceousshields,andofthesiliceoustissueofplants。InfivelittlepacketswhichIsenthim,hehasascertainednolessthansixty-sevendifferentorganicforms!Theinfusoria,withtheexceptionoftwomarinespecies,areallinhabitantsoffresh-water。
  IhavefoundnolessthanfifteendifferentaccountsofdusthavingfallenonvesselswhenfaroutintheAtlantic。Fromthedirectionofthewindwheneverithasfallen,andfromitshavingalwaysfallenduringthosemonthswhentheharmattanisknowntoraisecloudsofdusthighintotheatmosphere,wemayfeelsurethatitallcomesfromAfrica。Itis,however,averysingularfact,that,althoughProfessorEhrenbergknowsmanyspeciesofinfusoriapeculiartoAfrica,hefindsnoneoftheseinthedustwhichIsenthim。Ontheotherhand,hefindsinittwospecieswhichhithertoheknowsaslivingonlyinSouthAmerica。Thedustfallsinsuchquantitiesastodirtyeverythingonboard,andtohurtpeople’seyes;vesselsevenhaverunonshoreowingtotheobscurityoftheatmosphere。Ithasoftenfallenonshipswhenseveralhundred,andevenmorethanathousandmilesfromthecoastofAfrica,andatpointssixteenhundredmilesdistantinanorthandsouthdirection。Insomedustwhichwascollectedonavesselthreehundredmilesfromtheland,Iwasmuchsurprisedtofindparticlesofstoneabovethethousandthofaninchsquare,mixedwithfinermatter。
  Afterthisfactoneneednotbesurprisedatthediffusionofthefarlighterandsmallersporulesofcryptogamicplants。
  Thegeologyofthisislandisthemostinterestingpartofitsnaturalhistory。Onenteringtheharbour,aperfectlyhorizontalwhiteband,inthefaceoftheseacliff,maybeseenrunningforsomemilesalongthecoast,andattheheightofaboutforty-fivefeetabovethewater。Uponexaminationthiswhitestratumisfoundtoconsistofcalcareousmatterwithnumerousshellsembedded,mostorallofwhichnowexistontheneighbouringcoast。Itrestsonancientvolcanicrocks,andhasbeencoveredbyastreamofbasalt,whichmusthaveenteredtheseawhenthewhiteshellybedwaslyingatthebottom。Itisinterestingtotracethechangesproducedbytheheatoftheoverlyinglava,onthefriablemass,whichinpartshasbeenconvertedintoacrystallinelimestone,andinotherpartsintoacompactspottedstoneWherethelimehasbeencaughtupbythescoriaceousfragmentsofthelowersurfaceofthestream,itisconvertedintogroupsofbeautifullyradiatedfibresresemblingarragonite。Thebedsoflavariseinsuccessivegently-slopingplains,towardstheinterior,whencethedelugesofmeltedstonehaveoriginallyproceeded。Withinhistoricaltimes,nosignsofvolcanicactivityhave,Ibelieve,beenmanifestedinanypartofSt。Jago。Eventheformofacratercanbutrarelybediscoveredonthesummitsofthemanyredcinderyhills;yetthemorerecentstreamscanbedistinguishedonthecoast,forminglinesofcliffsoflessheight,butstretchingoutinadvanceofthosebelongingtoanolderseries:theheightofthecliffsthusaffordingarudemeasureoftheageofthestreams。
  Duringourstay,Iobservedthehabitsofsomemarineanimals。AlargeAplysiaisverycommon。Thissea-slugisaboutfiveincheslong;andisofadirtyyellowishcolourveinedwithpurple。
  Oneachsideofthelowersurface,orfoot,thereisabroadmembrane,whichappearssometimestoactasaventilator,incausingacurrentofwatertoflowoverthedorsalbranchiaeorlungs。Itfeedsonthedelicatesea-weedswhichgrowamongthestonesinmuddyandshallowwater;andI
  foundinitsstomachseveralsmallpebbles,asinthegizzardofabird。
  Thisslug,whendisturbed,emitsaveryfinepurplish-redfluid,whichstainsthewaterforthespaceofafootaround。Besidesthismeansofdefence,anacridsecretion,whichisspreadoveritsbody,causesasharp,stingingsensation,similartothatproducedbythePhysalia,orPortugueseman-of-war。
  Iwasmuchinterested,onseveraloccasions,bywatchingthehabitsofanOctopus,orcuttle-fish。Althoughcommoninthepoolsofwaterleftbytheretiringtide,theseanimalswerenoteasilycaught。Bymeansoftheirlongarmsandsuckers,theycoulddragtheirbodiesintoverynarrowcrevices;andwhenthusfixed,itrequiredgreatforcetoremovethem。
  Atothertimestheydartedtailfirst,withtherapidityofanarrow,fromonesideofthepooltotheother,atthesameinstantdiscolouringthewaterwithadarkchestnut-brownink。Theseanimalsalsoescapedetectionbyaveryextraordinary,chameleon-likepowerofchangingtheircolour。
  Theyappeartovarytheirtintsaccordingtothenatureofthegroundoverwhichtheypass:whenindeepwater,theirgeneralshadewasbrownishpurple,butwhenplacedontheland,orinshallowwater,thisdarktintchangedintooneofayellowishgreen。Thecolour,examinedmorecarefully,wasaFrenchgrey,withnumerousminutespotsofbrightyellow:theformerofthesevariedinintensity;thelatterentirelydisappearedandappearedagainbyturns。Thesechangeswereeffectedinsuchamanner,thatclouds,varyingintintbetweenahyacinthredandachestnut-brown[note4],werecontinuallypassingoverthebody。Anypart,beingsubjectedtoaslightshockofgalvanism,becamealmostblack:asimilareffect,butinalessdegree,wasproducedbyscratchingtheskinwithaneedle。
  Theseclouds,orblushesastheymaybecalled,aresaidtobeproducedbythealternateexpansionandcontractionofminutevesiclescontainingvariouslycolouredfluids[note5]。
  Thiscuttle-fishdisplayeditschameleon-likepowerbothduringtheactofswimmingandwhilstremainingstationaryatthebottom。Iwasmuchamusedbythevariousartstoescapedetectionusedbyoneindividual,whichseemedfullyawarethatIwaswatchingit。Remainingforatimemotionless,itwouldthenstealthilyadvanceaninchortwo,likeacatafteramouse;
  sometimeschangingitscolour:itthusproceeded,tillhavinggainedadeeperpart,itdartedaway,leavingaduskytrainofinktohidetheholeintowhichithadcrawled。
  Whilelookingformarineanimals,withmyheadabouttwofeetabovetherockyshore,Iwasmorethanoncesalutedbyajetofwater,accompaniedbyaslightgratingnoise。AtfirstIcouldnotthinkwhatitwas,butafterwardsIfoundoutthatitwasthiscuttle-fish,which,thoughconcealedinahole,thusoftenledmetoitsdiscovery。Thatitpossessesthepowerofejectingwaterthereisnodoubt,anditappearedtomethatitcouldcertainlytakegoodaimbydirectingthetubeorsiphonontheundersideofitsbody。Fromthedifficultywhichtheseanimalshaveincarryingtheirheads,theycannotcrawlwitheasewhenplacedontheground。IobservedthatonewhichIkeptinthecabinwasslightlyphosphorescentinthedark。
  St。Paul’sRocksIncrossingtheAtlanticwehove-toduringthemorningofFebruary16th,closetotheislandofSt。Paul’s。Thisclusterofrocksissituatedin0degs。58’northlatitude,and29degs。15’westlongitude。Itis540
  milesdistantfromthecoastofAmerica,and350fromtheislandofFernandoNoronha。Thehighestpointisonlyfiftyfeetabovethelevelofthesea,andtheentirecircumferenceisunderthree-quartersofamile。Thissmallpointrisesabruptlyoutofthedepthsoftheocean。Itsmineralogicalconstitutionisnotsimple;insomepartstherockisofacherty,inothersofafelspathicnature,includingthinveinsofserpentine。Itisaremarkablefact,thatallthemanysmallislands,lyingfarfromanycontinent,inthePacific,Indian,andAtlanticOceans,withtheexceptionoftheSeychellesandthislittlepointofrock,are,Ibelieve,composedeitherofcoraloroferuptedmatter。Thevolcanicnatureoftheseoceanicislandsisevidentlyanextensionofthatlaw,andtheeffectofthosesamecauses,whetherchemicalormechanical,fromwhichitresultsthatavastmajorityofthevolcanoesnowinactionstandeithernearsea-coastsorasislandsinthemidstofthesea。
  TherocksofSt。Paulappearfromadistanceofabrilliantlywhitecolour。Thisispartlyowingtothedungofavastmultitudeofseafowl,andpartlytoacoatingofahardglossysubstancewithapearlylustre,whichisintimatelyunitedtothesurfaceoftherocks。This,whenexaminedwithalens,isfoundtoconsistofnumerousexceedinglythinlayers,itstotalthicknessbeingaboutthetenthofaninch。Itcontainsmuchanimalmatter,anditsorigin,nodoubt,isduetotheactionoftherainorsprayonthebirds’dung。BelowsomesmallmassesofguanoatAscension,andontheAbrolhosIslets,Ifoundcertainstalactiticbranchingbodies,formedapparentlyinthesamemannerasthethinwhitecoatingontheserocks。
  Thebranchingbodiessocloselyresembledingeneralappearancecertainnulliporaeafamilyofhardcalcareoussea-plants,thatinlatelylookinghastilyovermycollectionIdidnotperceivethedifference。Theglobularextremitiesofthebranchesareofapearlytexture,liketheenamelofteeth,butsohardasjusttoscratchplate-glass。Imayheremention,thatonapartofthecoastofAscension,wherethereisavastaccumulationofshellysand,anincrustationisdepositedonthetidalrocksbythewaterofthesea,resembling,asrepresentedinthewoodcut,certaincryptogamicplantsMarchantiaeoftenseenondampwalls。Thesurfaceofthefrondsisbeautifullyglossy;andthosepartsformedwherefullyexposedtothelightareofajetblackcolour,butthoseshadedunderledgesareonlygrey。Ihaveshownspecimensofthisincrustationtoseveralgeologists,andtheyallthoughtthattheywereofvolcanicorigneousorigin!Initshardnessandtranslucency——initspolish,equaltothatofthefinestoliva-shell——inthebadsmellgivenout,andlossofcolourundertheblowpipe——itshowsaclosesimilaritywithlivingsea-shells。Moreover,insea-shells,itisknownthatthepartshabituallycoveredandshadedbythemantleoftheanimal,areofapalercolourthanthosefullyexposedtothelight,justasisthecasewiththisincrustation。Whenwerememberthatlime,eitherasaphosphateorcarbonate,entersintothecompositionofthehardparts,suchasbonesandshells,ofalllivinganimals,itisaninterestingphysiologicalfact[note6]tofindsubstancesharderthantheenamelofteeth,andcolouredsurfacesaswellpolishedasthoseofafreshshell,reformedthroughinorganicmeansfromdeadorganicmatter——mocking,also,inshape,someofthelowervegetableproductions。
  WefoundonSt。Paul’sonlytwokindsofbirds——theboobyandthenoddy。Theformerisaspeciesofgannet,andthelatteratern。Bothareofatameandstupiddisposition,andaresounaccustomedtovisitors,thatIcouldhavekilledanynumberofthemwithmygeologicalhammer。