thenslippingoffoverthecrupper，hecaughtholdofthetail，andasoftenasthehorseturnedroundthemanfrighteneditbackbysplashingwaterinitsface。Assoonasthehorsetouchedthebottomontheotherside，themanpulledhimselfon，andwasfirmlyseated，bridleinhand，beforethehorsegainedthebank。Anakedmanonanakedhorseisafinespectacle；Ihadnoideahowwellthetwoanimalssuitedeachother。Thetailofahorseisaveryusefulappendage；Ihavepassedariverinaboatwithfourpeopleinit，whichwasferriedacrossinthesamewayastheGaucho。Ifamanandhorsehavetocrossabroadriver，thebestplanisforthemantocatchholdofthepommelormane，andhelphimselfwiththeotherarm。
　　WesleptandstayedthefollowingdayatthepostofCufre。Intheeveningthepostmanorletter-carrierarrived。Hewasadayafterhistime，owingtotheRioRozariobeingflooded。Itwouldnot，however，beofmuchconsequence；
　　for，althoughhehadpassedthroughsomeoftheprincipaltownsinBandaOriental，hisluggageconsistedoftwoletters！Theviewfromthehousewaspleasing；anundulatinggreensurface，withdistantglimpsesofthePlata。IfindthatIlookatthisprovincewithverydifferenteyesfromwhatIdiduponmyfirstarrival。IrecollectIthenthoughtitsingularlylevel；butnow，aftergallopingoverthePampas，myonlysurpriseis，whatcouldhaveinducedmeevertocallitlevel。Thecountryisaseriesofundulations，inthemselvesperhapsnotabsolutelygreat，but，ascomparedtotheplainsofSt。Fe，realmountains。Fromtheseinequalitiesthereisanabundanceofsmallrivulets，andtheturfisgreenandluxuriant。
　　November17th——WecrossedtheRozario，whichwasdeepandrapid，andpassingthevillageofColla，arrivedatmiddayatColoniadelSacramiento。
　　Thedistanceistwentyleagues，throughacountrycoveredwithfinegrass，butpoorlystockedwithcattleorinhabitants。IwasinvitedtosleepatColonia，andtoaccompanyonthefollowingdayagentlemantohisestancia，wherethereweresomelimestonerocks。ThetownisbuiltonastonypromontorysomethinginthesamemannerasatMonteVideo。Itisstronglyfortified，butbothfortificationsandtownsufferedmuchintheBrazilianwar。Itisveryancient；andtheirregularityofthestreets，andthesurroundinggrovesofoldorangeandpeachtrees，gaveitaprettyappearance。Thechurchisacuriousruin；itwasusedasapowder-magazine，andwasstruckbylightninginoneofthetenthousandthunder-stormsoftheRioPlata。
　　Two-thirdsofthebuildingwereblownawaytotheveryfoundation；andthereststandsashatteredandcuriousmonumentoftheunitedpowersoflightningandgunpowder。IntheeveningIwanderedaboutthehalf-demolishedwallsofthetown。ItwasthechiefseatoftheBrazilianwar；——awarmostinjurioustothiscountry，notsomuchinitsimmediateeffects，asinbeingtheoriginofamultitudeofgeneralsandallothergradesofofficers。MoregeneralsarenumberedbutnotpaidintheUnitedProvincesofLaPlatathanintheUnitedKingdomofGreatBritain。Thesegentlemenhavelearnedtolikepower，anddonotobjecttoalittleskirmishing。
　　Hencetherearemanyalwaysonthewatchtocreatedisturbanceandtooverturnagovernmentwhichasyethasneverrestedonanystaplefoundation。I
　　noticed，however，bothhereandinotherplaces，averygeneralinterestintheensuingelectionforthePresident；andthisappearsagoodsignfortheprosperityofthislittlecountry。Theinhabitantsdonotrequiremucheducationintheirrepresentatives；IheardsomemendiscussingthemeritsofthoseforColonia；anditwassaidthat，“althoughtheywerenotmenofbusiness，theycouldallsigntheirnames：“withthistheyseemedtothinkeveryreasonablemanoughttobesatisfied。
　　18th——Rodewithmyhosttohisestancia，attheArroyodeSanJuan。
　　Intheeveningwetookarideroundtheestate：itcontainedtwosquareleaguesandahalf，andwassituatedinwhatiscalledarincon；thatis，onesidewasfrontedbythePlata，andthetwoothersguardedbyimpassablebrooks。Therewasanexcellentportforlittlevessels，andanabundanceofsmallwood，whichisvaluableassupplyingfueltoBuenosAyres。Iwascurioustoknowthevalueofsocompleteanestancia。Ofcattletherewere3000，anditwouldwellsupportthreeorfourtimesthatnumber；ofmares800，togetherwith150broken-inhorses，and600sheep。Therewasplentyofwaterandlimestone，aroughhouse，excellentcorrals，andapeachorchard。
　　Forallthishehadbeenoffered2000Pounds，andheonlywanted500Poundsadditional，andprobablywouldsellitforless。Thechieftroublewithanestanciaisdrivingthecattletwiceaweektoacentralspot，inordertomakethemtame，andtocountthem。Thislatteroperationwouldbethoughtdifficult，wheretherearetenorfifteenthousandheadtogether。Itismanagedontheprinciplethatthecattleinvariablydividethemselvesintolittletroopsoffromfortytoonehundred。Eachtroopisrecognizedbyafewpeculiarlymarkedanimals，anditsnumberisknown：sothat，onebeinglostoutoftenthousand，itisperceivedbyitsabsencefromoneofthetropillas。Duringastormynightthecattleallmingletogether；
　　butthenextmorningthetropillasseparateasbefore；sothateachanimalmustknowitsfellowoutoftenthousandothers。
　　OntwooccasionsImetwithinthisprovincesomeoxenofaverycuriousbreed，callednataorniata。Theyappearexternallytoholdnearlythesamerelationtoothercattle，whichbullorpugdogsdotootherdogs。
　　Theirforeheadisveryshortandbroad，withthenasalendturnedup，andtheupperlipmuchdrawnback；theirlowerjawsprojectbeyondtheupper，andhaveacorrespondingupwardcurve；hencetheirteetharealwaysexposed。
　　Theirnostrilsareseatedhighupandareveryopen；theireyesprojectoutwards。Whenwalkingtheycarrytheirheadslow，onashortneck；andtheirhinderlegsareratherlongercomparedwiththefrontlegsthanisusual。Theirbareteeth，theirshortheads，andupturnednostrilsgivethemthemostludicrousself-confidentairofdefianceimaginable。
　　Sincemyreturn，Ihaveprocuredaskeletonhead，throughthekindnessofmyfriendCaptainSulivan，R。N。，whichisnowdepositedintheCollegeofSurgeons。[1]DonF。Muniz，ofLuxan，haskindlycollectedformealltheinformationwhichhecouldrespectingthisbreed。
　　Fromhisaccountitseemsthatabouteightyorninetyyearsago，theywererareandkeptascuriositiesatBuenosAyres。ThebreedisuniversallybelievedtohaveoriginatedamongsttheIndianssouthwardofthePlata；
　　andthatitwaswiththemthecommonestkind。Eventothisday，thoserearedintheprovincesnearthePlatashowtheirlesscivilizedorigin，inbeingfiercerthancommoncattle，andinthecoweasilydesertingherfirstcalf，ifvisitedtoooftenormolested。Itisasingularfactthatanalmostsimilarstructuretotheabnormal[2]oneoftheniatabreed，characterizes，asIaminformedbyDr。Falconer，thatgreatextinctruminantofIndia，theSivatherium。Thebreedisvery_true_；andaniatabullandcowinvariablyproduceniatacalves。Aniatabullwithacommoncow，orthereversecross，producesoffspringhavinganintermediatecharacter，butwiththeniatacharactersstronglydisplayed：accordingtoSenorMuniz，thereistheclearestevidence，contrarytothecommonbeliefofagriculturistsinanalogouscases，thattheniatacowwhencrossedwithacommonbulltransmitsherpeculiaritiesmorestronglythantheniatabullwhencrossedwithacommoncow。Whenthepastureistolerablylong，theniatacattlefeedwiththetongueandpalateaswellascommoncattle；butduringthegreatdroughts，whensomanyanimalsperish，theniatabreedisunderagreatdisadvantage，andwouldbeexterminatedifnotattendedto；forthecommoncattle，likehorses，areablejusttokeepalive，bybrowsingwiththeirlipsontwigsoftreesandreeds；thistheniatascannotsowelldo，astheirlipsdonotjoin，andhencetheyarefoundtoperishbeforethecommoncattle。Thisstrikesmeasagoodillustrationofhowlittleweareabletojudgefromtheordinaryhabitsoflife，onwhatcircumstances，occurringonlyatlongintervals，therarityorextinctionofaspeciesmaybedetermined。
　　November19th——PassingthevalleyofLasVacas，wesleptatahouseofaNorthAmerican，whoworkedalime-kilnontheArroyodelasVivoras。
　　Inthemorningwerodetoaprotectingheadlandonthebanksoftheriver，calledPuntaGorda。Onthewaywetriedtofindajaguar。Therewereplentyoffreshtracks，andwevisitedthetrees，onwhichtheyaresaidtosharpentheirclaws；butwedidnotsucceedindisturbingone。FromthispointtheRioUruguaypresentedtoourviewanoblevolumeofwater。Fromtheclearnessandrapidityofthestream，itsappearancewasfarsuperiortothatofitsneighbourtheParana。Ontheoppositecoast，severalbranchesfromthelatterriverenteredtheUruguay。Asthesunwasshining，thetwocoloursofthewaterscouldbeseenquitedistinct。
　　IntheeveningweproceededonourroadtowardsMercedesontheRioNegro。Atnightweaskedpermissiontosleepatanestanciaatwhichwehappenedtoarrive。Itwasaverylargeestate，beingtenleaguessquare，andtheownerisoneofthegreatestlandownersinthecountry。Hisnephewhadchargeofit，andwithhimtherewasacaptaininthearmy，whotheotherdayranawayfromBuenosAyres。Consideringtheirstation，theirconversationwasratheramusing。Theyexpressed，aswasusual，unboundedastonishmentattheglobebeinground，andcouldscarcelycreditthataholewould，ifdeepenough，comeoutontheotherside。Theyhad，however，heardofacountrywherethereweresixmonthsoflightandsixofdarkness，andwheretheinhabitantswereverytallandthin！TheywerecuriousaboutthepriceandconditionofhorsesandcattleinEngland。Uponfindingoutwedidnotcatchouranimalswiththelazo，theycriedout，“Ah，then，youusenothingbutthebolas：“theideaofanenclosedcountrywasquitenewtothem。Thecaptainatlastsaid，hehadonequestiontoaskme，whichheshouldbeverymuchobligedifIwouldanswerwithalltruth。Itrembledtothinkhowdeeplyscientificitwouldbe：itwas，“WhethertheladiesofBuenosAyreswerenotthehandsomestintheworld。”Ireplied，likearenegade，“Charminglyso。”Headded，“Ihaveoneotherquestion：Doladiesinanyotherpartoftheworldwearsuchlargecombs？”Isolemnlyassuredhimthattheydidnot。Theywereabsolutelydelighted。Thecaptainexclaimed，“Lookthere！amanwhohasseenhalftheworldsaysitisthecase；wealwaysthoughtso，butnowweknowit。”Myexcellentjudgmentincombsandbeautyprocuredmeamosthospitablereception；thecaptainforcedmetotakehisbed，andhewouldsleeponhisrecado。
　　21st——Startedatsunrise，androdeslowlyduringthewholeday。Thegeologicalnatureofthispartoftheprovincewasdifferentfromtherest，andcloselyresembledthatofthePampas。Inconsequence，therewereimmensebedsofthethistle，aswellasofthecardoon：thewholecountry，indeed，maybecalledonegreatbedoftheseplants。Thetwosortsgrowseparate，eachplantincompanywithitsownkind。Thecardoonisashighasahorse’sback，butthePampasthistleisoftenhigherthanthecrownoftherider’shead。Toleavetheroadforayardisoutofthequestion；andtheroaditselfispartly，andinsomecasesentirelyclosed。Pasture，ofcoursethereisnone；ifcattleorhorsesonceenterthebed，theyareforthetimecompletelylost。Henceitisveryhazardoustoattempttodrivecattleatthisseasonoftheyear；forwhenjadedenoughtofacethethistles，theyrushamongthem，andareseennomore。Inthesedistrictsthereareveryfewestancias，andthesefewaresituatedintheneighbourhoodofdampvalleys，wherefortunatelyneitheroftheseoverwhelmingplantscanexist。Asnightcameonbeforewearrivedatourjourney’send，wesleptatamiserablelittlehovelinhabitedbythepoorestpeople。Theextremethoughratherformalcourtesyofourhostandhostess，consideringtheirgradeoflife，wasquitedelightful。
　　November22nd——ArrivedatanestanciaontheBerquelobelongingtoaveryhospitableEnglishman，towhomIhadaletterofintroductionfrommyfriendMr。Lumb。Istayedherethreedays。OnemorningIrodewithmyhosttotheSierradelPedroFlaco，abouttwentymilesuptheRioNegro。
　　Nearlythewholecountrywascoveredwithgoodthoughcoarsegrass，whichwasashighasahorse’sbelly；yetthereweresquareleagueswithoutasingleheadofcattle。TheprovinceofBandaOriental，ifwellstocked，wouldsupportanastonishingnumberofanimals，atpresenttheannualexportofhidesfromMonteVideoamountstothreehundredthousand；andthehomeconsumption，fromwaste，isveryconsiderable。An“estanciero“toldmethatheoftenhadtosendlargeherdsofcattlealongjourneytoasaltingestablishment，andthatthetiredbeastswerefrequentlyobligedtobekilledandskinned；butthathecouldneverpersuadetheGauchostoeatofthem，andeveryeveningafreshbeastwasslaughteredfortheirsuppers！
　　TheviewoftheRioNegrofromtheSierrawasmorepicturesquethananyotherwhichIsawinthisprovince。Theriver，broad，deep，andrapid，woundatthefootofarockyprecipitouscliff：abeltofwoodfolloweditscourse，andthehorizonterminatedinthedistantundulationsoftheturf-plain。
　　Wheninthisneighbourhood，IseveraltimesheardoftheSierradelasCuentas：ahilldistantmanymilestothenorthward。Thenamesignifieshillofbeads。Iwasassuredthatvastnumbersoflittleroundstones，ofvariouscolours，eachwithasmallcylindricalhole，arefoundthere。
　　FormerlytheIndiansusedtocollectthem，forthepurposeofmakingnecklacesandbracelets——ataste，Imayobserve，whichiscommontoallsavagenations，aswellastothemostpolished。Ididnotknowwhattounderstandfromthisstory，butuponmentioningitattheCapeofGoodHopetoDr。
　　AndrewSmith，hetoldmethatherecollectedfindingonthesouth-easterncoastofAfrica，aboutonehundredmilestotheeastwardofSt。John’sriver，somequartzcrystalswiththeiredgesbluntedfromattrition，andmixedwithgravelonthesea-beach。Eachcrystalwasaboutfivelinesindiameter，andfromaninchtoaninchandahalfinlength。Manyofthemhadasmallcanalextendingfromoneextremitytotheother，perfectlycylindrical，andofasizethatreadilyadmittedacoarsethreadorapieceoffinecatgut。Theircolourwasredordullwhite。Thenativeswereacquaintedwiththisstructureincrystals。Ihavementionedthesecircumstancesbecause，althoughnocrystallizedbodyisatpresentknowntoassumethisform，itmayleadsomefuturetravellertoinvestigatetherealnatureofsuchstones。