[10]AninhabitantofMendoza，andhencewellcapableofjudging，assuredmethat，duringtheseveralyearshehadresidedontheseislands，hehadneverfelttheslightestshockofanearthquake。
　　[11]Iwassurprisedtofind，oncountingtheeggsofalargewhiteDoristhissea-slugwasthreeandahalfincheslong，howextraordinarilynumeroustheywere。Fromtwotofiveeggseachthree-thousandthsofaninchindiameterwerecontainedinsphericallittlecase。Thesewerearrangedtwodeepintransverserowsformingaribbon。
　　Theribbonadheredbyitsedgetotherockinanovalspire。OnewhichIfound，measurednearlytwentyinchesinlengthandhalfinbreadth。Bycountinghowmanyballswerecontainedinatenthofaninchintherow，andhowmanyrowsinanequallengthoftheribbon，onthemostmoderatecomputationthereweresixhundredthousandeggs。YetthisDoriswascertainlynotverycommon；althoughIwasoftensearchingunderthestones，Isawonlysevenindividuals。Nofallacyismorecommonwithnaturalists，thanthatthenumbersofanindividualspeciesdependonitspowersofpropagation。PreviousChapterNextChapterTheVoyageoftheBeagle-Chapter10TheVoyageoftheBeaglebyCharlesDarwinPreviousChapterNextChapterChapter10-TierraDelFuegoDECEMBER17th，1832——HavingnowfinishedwithPatagoniaandtheFalklandIslands，IwilldescribeourfirstarrivalinTierradelFuego。
　　AlittleafternoonwedoubledCapeSt。Diego，andenteredthefamousstraitofLeMaire。WekeptclosetotheFuegianshore，buttheoutlineoftherugged，inhospitableStatenlandwasvisibleamidsttheclouds。IntheafternoonweanchoredintheBayofGoodSuccess。Whileenteringweweresalutedinamannerbecomingtheinhabitantsofthissavageland。AgroupofFuegianspartlyconcealedbytheentangledforest，wereperchedonawildpointoverhangingthesea；andaswepassedby，theysprangupandwavingtheirtatteredcloakssentforthaloudandsonorousshout。Thesavagesfollowedtheship，andjustbeforedarkwesawtheirfire，andagainheardtheirwildcry。Theharbourconsistsofafinepieceofwaterhalfsurroundedbylowroundedmountainsofclay-slate，whicharecoveredtothewater’sedgebyonedensegloomyforest。AsingleglanceatthelandscapewassufficienttoshowmehowwidelydifferentitwasfromanythingIhadeverbeheld。
　　Atnightitblewagaleofwind，andheavysquallsfromthemountainssweptpastus。Itwouldhavebeenabadtimeoutatsea，andwe，aswellasothers，maycallthisGoodSuccessBay。
　　InthemorningtheCaptainsentapartytocommunicatewiththeFuegians。
　　Whenwecamewithinhail，oneofthefournativeswhowerepresentadvancedtoreceiveus，andbegantoshoutmostvehemently，wishingtodirectuswheretoland。Whenwewereonshorethepartylookedratheralarmed，butcontinuedtalkingandmakinggestureswithgreatrapidity。ItwaswithoutexceptionthemostcuriousandinterestingspectacleIeverbeheld：Icouldnothavebelievedhowwidewasthedifferencebetweensavageandcivilizedman：itisgreaterthanbetweenawildanddomesticatedanimal，inasmuchasinmanthereisagreaterpowerofimprovement。Thechiefspokesmanwasold，andappearedtobetheheadofthefamily；thethreeotherswerepowerfulyoungmen，aboutsixfeethigh。Thewomenandchildrenhadbeensentaway。TheseFuegiansareaverydifferentracefromthestunted，miserablewretchesfartherwestward；andtheyseemcloselyalliedtothefamousPatagoniansoftheStraitofMagellan。Theironlygarmentconsistsofamantlemadeofguanacoskin，withthewooloutside：thistheywearjustthrownovertheirshoulders，leavingtheirpersonsasoftenexposedascovered。Theirskinisofadirtycoppery-redcolour。
　　Theoldmanhadafilletofwhitefeatherstiedroundhishead，whichpartlyconfinedhisblack，coarse，andentangledhair。Hisfacewascrossedbytwobroadtransversebars；one，paintedbrightred，reachedfromeartoearandincludedtheupperlip；theother，whitelikechalk，extendedaboveandparalleltothefirst，sothatevenhiseyelidswerethuscoloured。
　　Theothertwomenwereornamentedbystreaksofblackpowder，madeofcharcoal。
　　ThepartyaltogethercloselyresembledthedevilswhichcomeonthestageinplayslikeDerFreischutz。
　　Theirveryattitudeswereabject，andtheexpressionoftheircountenancesdistrustful，surprised，andstartled。Afterwehadpresentedthemwithsomescarletcloth，whichtheyimmediatelytiedroundtheirnecks，theybecamegoodfriends。Thiswasshownbytheoldmanpattingourbreasts，andmakingachucklingkindofnoise，aspeopledowhenfeedingchickens。
　　Iwalkedwiththeoldman，andthisdemonstrationoffriendshipwasrepeatedseveraltimes；itwasconcludedbythreehardslaps，whichweregivenmeonthebreastandbackatthesametime。Hethenbaredhisbosomformetoreturnthecompliment，whichbeingdone，heseemedhighlypleased。Thelanguageofthesepeople，accordingtoournotions，scarcelydeservestobecalledarticulate。CaptainCookhascomparedittoamanclearinghisthroat，butcertainlynoEuropeaneverclearedhisthroatwithsomanyhoarse，guttural，andclickingsounds。
　　Theyareexcellentmimics：asoftenaswecoughedoryawned，ormadeanyoddmotion，theyimmediatelyimitatedus。Someofourpartybegantosquintandlookawry；butoneoftheyoungFuegianswhosewholefacewaspaintedblack，exceptingawhitebandacrosshiseyessucceededinmakingfarmorehideousgrimaces。Theycouldrepeatwithperfectcorrectnesseachwordinanysentenceweaddressedthem，andtheyrememberedsuchwordsforsometime。YetweEuropeansallknowhowdifficultitistodistinguishapartthesoundsinaforeignlanguage。Whichofus，forinstance，couldfollowanAmericanIndianthroughasentenceofmorethanthreewords？
　　Allsavagesappeartopossess，toanuncommondegree，thispowerofmimicry。
　　Iwastold，almostinthesamewords，ofthesameludicroushabitamongtheCaffres；theAustralians，likewise，havelongbeennotoriousforbeingabletoimitateanddescribethegaitofanyman，sothathemayberecognized。
　　Howcanthisfacultybeexplained？isitaconsequenceofthemorepractisedhabitsofperceptionandkeenersenses，commontoallmeninasavagestate，ascomparedwiththoselongcivilized？
　　Whenasongwasstruckupbyourparty，IthoughttheFuegianswouldhavefallendownwithastonishment。Withequalsurprisetheyviewedourdancing；butoneoftheyoungmen，whenasked，hadnoobjectiontoalittlewaltzing。LittleaccustomedtoEuropeansastheyappearedtobe，yettheyknewanddreadedourfire-arms；nothingwouldtemptthemtotakeagunintheirhands。Theybeggedforknives，callingthembytheSpanishword“cuchilla。”Theyexplainedalsowhattheywanted，byactingasiftheyhadapieceofblubberintheirmouth，andthenpretendingtocutinsteadoftearit。
　　IhavenotasyetnoticedtheFuegianswhomwehadonboard。DuringtheformervoyageoftheAdventureandBeaglein1826to1830，CaptainFitzRoyseizedonapartyofnatives，ashostagesforthelossofaboat，whichhadbeenstolen，tothegreatjeopardyofapartyemployedonthesurvey；andsomeofthesenatives，aswellasachildwhomheboughtforapearl-button，hetookwithhimtoEngland，determiningtoeducatethemandinstructtheminreligionathisownexpense。Tosettlethesenativesintheirowncountry，wasonechiefinducementtoCaptainFitzRoytoundertakeourpresentvoyage；andbeforetheAdmiraltyhadresolvedtosendoutthisexpedition，CaptainFitzRoyhadgenerouslycharteredavessel，andwouldhimselfhavetakenthemback。Thenativeswereaccompaniedbyamissionary，R。Matthews；ofwhomandofthenatives，CaptainFitzRoyhaspublishedafullandexcellentaccount。Twomen，oneofwhomdiedinEnglandofthesmall-pox，aboyandalittlegirl，wereoriginallytaken；andwehadnowonboard，YorkMinster，JemmyButtonwhosenameexpresseshispurchase-money，andFuegiaBasket。YorkMinsterwasafull-grown，short，thick，powerfulman：hisdispositionwasreserved，taciturn，morose，andwhenexcitedviolentlypassionate；hisaffectionswereverystrongtowardsafewfriendsonboard；
　　hisintellectgood。JemmyButtonwasauniversalfavourite，butlikewisepassionate；theexpressionofhisfaceatonceshowedhisnicedisposition。
　　Hewasmerryandoftenlaughed，andwasremarkablysympatheticwithanyoneinpain：whenthewaterwasrough，Iwasoftenalittlesea-sick，andheusedtocometomeandsayinaplaintivevoice，“Poor，poorfellow！”
　　butthenotion，afterhisaquaticlife，ofamanbeingsea-sick，wastooludicrous，andhewasgenerallyobligedtoturnononesidetohideasmileorlaugh，andthenhewouldrepeathis“Poor，poorfellow！”Hewasofapatrioticdisposition；andhelikedtopraisehisowntribeandcountry，inwhichhetrulysaidtherewere“plentyoftrees。”andheabusedalltheothertribes：hestoutlydeclaredthattherewasnoDevilinhisland。
　　Jemmywasshort，thick，andfat，butvainofhispersonalappearance；heusedalwaystoweargloves，hishairwasneatlycut，andhewasdistressedifhiswell-polishedshoesweredirtied。Hewasfondofadmiringhimselfinalookingglass；andamerry-facedlittleIndianboyfromtheRioNegro，whomwehadforsomemonthsonboard，soonperceivedthis，andusedtomockhim：Jemmy，whowasalwaysratherjealousoftheattentionpaidtothislittleboy，didnotatalllikethis，andusedtosay，withratheracontemptuoustwistofhishead，“Toomuchskylark。”Itseemsyetwonderfultome，whenIthinkoverallhismanygoodqualitiesthatheshouldhavebeenofthesamerace，anddoubtlesspartakenofthesamecharacter，withthemiserable，degradedsavageswhomwefirstmethere。Lastly，FuegiaBasketwasanice，modest，reservedyounggirl，witharatherpleasingbutsometimessullenexpression，andveryquickinlearninganything，especiallylanguages。ThissheshowedinpickingupsomePortugueseandSpanish，whenleftonshoreforonlyashorttimeatRiodeJaneiroandMonteVideo，andinherknowledgeofEnglish。YorkMinsterwasveryjealousofanyattentionpaidtoher；foritwasclearhedeterminedtomarryherassoonastheyweresettledonshore。
　　AlthoughallthreecouldbothspeakandunderstandagooddealofEnglish，itwassingularlydifficulttoobtainmuchinformationfromthem，concerningthehabitsoftheircountrymen；thiswaspartlyowingtotheirapparentdifficultyinunderstandingthesimplestalternative。Everyoneaccustomedtoveryyoungchildren，knowshowseldomonecangetananswereventososimpleaquestionaswhetherathingisblackorwhite；theideaofblackorwhiteseemsalternatelytofilltheirminds。SoitwaswiththeseFuegians，andhenceitwasgenerallyimpossibletofindout，bycrossquestioning，whetheronehadrightlyunderstoodanythingwhichtheyhadasserted。Theirsightwasremarkablyacute；itiswellknownthatsailors，fromlongpractice，canmakeoutadistantobjectmuchbetterthanalandsman；butbothYorkandJemmyweremuchsuperiortoanysailoronboard：severaltimestheyhavedeclaredwhatsomedistantobjecthasbeen，andthoughdoubtedbyeveryone，theyhaveprovedright，whenithasbeenexaminedthroughatelescope。Theywerequiteconsciousofthispower；andJemmy，whenhehadanylittlequarrelwiththeofficeronwatch，wouldsay，“Meseeship，menotell。”
　　Itwasinterestingtowatchtheconductofthesavages，whenwelanded，towardsJemmyButton：theyimmediatelyperceivedthedifferencebetweenhimandourselves，andheldmuchconversationonewithanotheronthesubject。
　　TheoldmanaddressedalongharanguetoJemmy，whichitseemswastoinvitehimtostaywiththemButJemmyunderstoodverylittleoftheirlanguage，andwas，moreover，thoroughlyashamedofhiscountrymen。WhenYorkMinsterafterwardscameonshore，theynoticedhiminthesameway，andtoldhimheoughttoshave；yethehadnottwentydwarfhairsonhisface，whilstweallworeouruntrimmedbeards。Theyexaminedthecolourofhisskin，andcompareditwithours。Oneofourarmsbeingbared，theyexpressedtheliveliestsurpriseandadmirationatitswhiteness，justinthesamewayinwhichIhaveseentheourangoutangdoattheZoologicalGardens。
　　Wethoughtthattheymistooktwoorthreeoftheofficers，whowererathershorterandfairer，thoughadornedwithlargebeards，fortheladiesofourparty。ThetallestamongsttheFuegianswasevidentlymuchpleasedathisheightbeingnoticed。Whenplacedbacktobackwiththetallestoftheboat’screw，hetriedhisbesttoedgeonhigherground，andtostandontiptoe。Heopenedhismouthtoshowhisteeth，andturnedhisfaceforasideview；andallthiswasdonewithsuchalacrity，thatI
　　daresayhethoughthimselfthehandsomestmaninTierradelFuego。Afterourfirstfeelingofgraveastonishmentwasover，nothingcouldbemoreludicrousthantheoddmixtureofsurpriseandimitationwhichthesesavageseverymomentexhibited。
　　ThenextdayIattemptedtopenetratesomewayintothecountry。TierradelFuegomaybedescribedasamountainousland，partlysubmergedinthesea，sothatdeepinletsandbaysoccupytheplacewherevalleysshouldexist。Themountainsides，exceptontheexposedwesterncoast，arecoveredfromthewater’sedgeupwardsbyonegreatforest。Thetreesreachtoanelevationofbetween1000and1500feet，andaresucceededbyabandofpeat，withminutealpineplants；andthisagainissucceededbythelineofperpetualsnow，which，accordingtoCaptainKing，intheStraitofMagellandescendstobetween3000and4000feet。Tofindanacreoflevellandinanypartofthecountryismostrare。IrecollectonlyonelittleflatpiecenearPortFamine，andanotherofratherlargerextentnearGoereeRoad。Inbothplaces，andeverywhereelse，thesurfaceiscoveredbyathickbedofswampypeat。Evenwithintheforest，thegroundisconcealedbyamassofslowlyputrefyingvegetablematter，which，frombeingsoakedwithwater，yieldstothefoot。