April9th——Weleftourmiserablesleeping-placebeforesunrise。Theroadpassedthroughanarrowsandyplain，lyingbetweentheseaandtheinteriorsaltlagoons。Thenumberofbeautifulfishingbirds，suchasegretsandcranes，andthesucculentplantsassumingmostfantasticalforms，gavetothesceneaninterestwhichitwouldnototherwisehavepossessed。Thefewstuntedtreeswereloadedwithparasiticalplants，amongwhichthebeautyanddeliciousfragranceofsomeoftheorchideaeweremosttobeadmired。Asthesunrose，thedaybecameextremelyhot，andthereflectionofthelightandheatfromthewhitesandwasverydistressing。WedinedatMandetiba；thethermometerintheshadebeing84degs。Thebeautifulviewofthedistantwoodedhills，reflectedintheperfectlycalmwaterofanextensivelagoon，quiterefreshedus。Asthevenda[1]herewasaverygoodone，andIhavethepleasant，butrareremembrance，ofanexcellentdinner，Iwillbegratefulandpresentlydescribeit，asthetypeofitsclass。Thesehousesareoftenlarge，andarebuiltofthickuprightposts，withboughsinterwoven，andafterwardsplastered。Theyseldomhavefloors，andneverglazedwindows；butaregenerallyprettywellroofed。
　　Universallythefrontpartisopen，formingakindofverandah，inwhichtablesandbenchesareplaced。Thebed-roomsjoinoneachside，andherethepassengermaysleepascomfortablyashecan，onawoodenplatform，coveredbyathinstrawmat。Thevendastandsinacourtyard，wherethehorsesarefed。OnfirstarrivingitwasourcustomtounsaddlethehorsesandgivethemtheirIndiancorn；then，withalowbow，toaskthesenhortodousthefavourtogiveupsomethingtoeat。“Anythingyouchoose，sir。”washisusualanswer。Forthefewfirsttimes，vainlyIthankedprovidenceforhavingguidedustosogoodaman。Theconversationproceeding，thecaseuniversallybecamedeplorable。“Anyfishcanyoudousthefavourofgiving？”——“Oh！no，sir。”——“Anysoup？”——“No，sir。”——“Anybread？”——
　　“Oh！no，sir。”——“Anydriedmeat？”——“Oh！no，sir。”Ifwewerelucky，bywaitingacoupleofhours，weobtainedfowls，rice，andfarinha。Itnotunfrequentlyhappened，thatwewereobligedtokill，withstones，thepoultryforourownsupper。When，thoroughlyexhaustedbyfatigueandhunger，wetimorouslyhintedthatweshouldbegladofourmeal，thepompous，andthoughtruemostunsatisfactoryanswerwas，“Itwillbereadywhenitisready。”Ifwehaddaredtoremonstrateanyfurther，weshouldhavebeentoldtoproceedonourjourney，asbeingtooimpertinent。Thehostsaremostungraciousanddisagreeableintheirmanners；theirhousesandtheirpersonsareoftenfilthilydirty；thewantoftheaccommodationofforks，knives，andspoonsiscommon；andIamsurenocottageorhovelinEnglandcouldbefoundinastatesoutterlydestituteofeverycomfort。AtCamposNovos，however，wefaredsumptuously；havingriceandfowls，biscuit，wine，andspirits，fordinner；coffeeintheevening，andfishwithcoffeeforbreakfast。Allthis，withgoodfoodforthehorses，onlycost2s。6d。perhead。Yetthehostofthisvenda，beingaskedifheknewanythingofawhipwhichoneofthepartyhadlost，grufflyanswered，“HowshouldIknow？
　　whydidyounottakecareofit？——Isupposethedogshaveeatenit。”
　　LeavingMandetiba，wecontinuedtopassthroughanintricatewildernessoflakes；insomeofwhichwerefresh，inotherssaltwatershells。Oftheformerkinds，IfoundaLimnaeaingreatnumbersinalake，intowhich，theinhabitantsassuredmethattheseaentersonceayear，andsometimesoftener，andmakesthewaterquitesalt。Ihavenodoubtmanyinterestingfacts，inrelationtomarineandfreshwateranimals，mightbeobservedinthischainoflagoons，whichskirtthecoastofBrazil。M。Gay[2]hasstatedthathefoundintheneighbourhoodofRio，shellsofthemarinegenerasolenandmytilus，andfreshwaterampullariae，livingtogetherinbrackishwater。IalsofrequentlyobservedinthelagoonneartheBotanicGarden，wherethewaterisonlyalittlelesssaltthaninthesea，aspeciesofhydrophilus，verysimilartoawater-beetlecommonintheditchesofEngland：inthesamelaketheonlyshellbelongedtoagenusgenerallyfoundinestuaries。
　　Leavingthecoastforatime，weagainenteredtheforest。Thetreeswereverylofty，andremarkable，comparedwiththoseofEurope，fromthewhitenessoftheirtrunks。Iseebymynote-book，“wonderfulandbeautiful，floweringparasites。”invariablystruckmeasthemostnovelobjectinthesegrandscenes。Travellingonwardswepassedthroughtractsofpasturage，muchinjuredbytheenormousconicalants’nests，whichwerenearlytwelvefeethigh。TheygavetotheplainexactlytheappearanceofthemudvolcanosatJorullo，asfiguredbyHumboldt。WearrivedatEngenhodoafteritwasdark，havingbeentenhoursonhorseback。Ineverceased，duringthewholejourney，tobesurprisedattheamountoflabourwhichthehorseswerecapableofenduring；theyappearedalsotorecoverfromanyinjurymuchsoonerthanthoseofourEnglishbreed。TheVampirebatisoftenthecauseofmuchtrouble，bybitingthehorsesontheirwithers。Theinjuryisgenerallynotsomuchowingtothelossofblood，astotheinflammationwhichthepressureofthesaddleafterwardsproduces。ThewholecircumstancehaslatelybeendoubtedinEngland；IwasthereforefortunateinbeingpresentwhenoneDesmodusd’orbignyi，Wat。wasactuallycaughtonahorse’sback。
　　WewerebivouackinglateoneeveningnearCoquimbo，inChile，whenmyservant，noticingthatoneofthehorseswasveryrestive，wenttoseewhatwasthematter，andfancyinghecoulddistinguishsomething，suddenlyputhishandonthebeast’swithers，andsecuredthevampire。Inthemorningthespotwherethebitehadbeeninflictedwaseasilydistinguishedfrombeingslightlyswollenandbloody。Thethirddayafterwardswerodethehorse，withoutanyilleffects。
　　April13th——Afterthreedays’travellingwearrivedatSocego，theestateofSenhorManuelFiguireda，arelationofoneofourparty。Thehousewassimple，and，thoughlikeabarninform，waswellsuitedtotheclimate。Inthesitting-roomgildedchairsandsofaswereoddlycontrastedwiththewhitewashedwalls，thatchedroof，andwindowswithoutglass。Thehouse，togetherwiththegranaries，thestables，andworkshopsfortheblacks，whohadbeentaughtvarioustrades，formedarudekindofquadrangle；
　　inthecentreofwhichalargepileofcoffeewasdrying。Thesebuildingsstandonalittlehill，overlookingthecultivatedground，andsurroundedoneverysidebyawallofdarkgreenluxuriantforest。Thechiefproduceofthispartofthecountryiscoffee。Eachtreeissupposedtoyieldannually，onanaverage，twopounds；butsomegiveasmuchaseight。Mandiocaorcassadaislikewisecultivatedingreatquantity。Everypartofthisplantisuseful；theleavesandstalksareeatenbythehorses，andtherootsaregroundintoapulp，which，whenpresseddryandbaked，formsthefarinha，theprincipalarticleofsustenanceintheBrazils。Itisacurious，thoughwell-knownfact，thatthejuiceofthismostnutritiousplantishighlypoisonous。AfewyearsagoacowdiedatthisFazenda，inconsequenceofhavingdrunksomeofit。SenhorFiguiredatoldmethathehadplanted，theyearbefore，onebagoffeijaoorbeans，andthreeofrice；theformerofwhichproducedeighty，andthelatterthreehundredandtwentyfold。
　　Thepasturagesupportsafinestockofcattle，andthewoodsaresofullofgamethatadeerhadbeenkilledoneachofthethreepreviousdays。
　　Thisprofusionoffoodshoweditselfatdinner，where，ifthetablesdidnotgroan，theguestssurelydid；foreachpersonisexpectedtoeatofeverydish。Oneday，having，asIthought，nicelycalculatedsothatnothingshouldgoawayuntasted，tomyutterdismayaroastturkeyandapigappearedinalltheirsubstantialreality。Duringthemeals，itwastheemploymentofamantodriveoutoftheroomsundryoldhounds，anddozensoflittleblackchildren，whichcrawledintogether，ateveryopportunity。Aslongastheideaofslaverycouldbebanished，therewassomethingexceedinglyfascinatinginthissimpleandpatriarchalstyleofliving：itwassuchaperfectretirementandindependencefromtherestoftheworld。
　　Assoonasanystrangerisseenarriving，alargebellissettolling，andgenerallysomesmallcannonarefired。Theeventisthusannouncedtotherocksandwoods，buttonothingelse。OnemorningIwalkedoutanhourbeforedaylighttoadmirethesolemnstillnessofthescene；atlast，thesilencewasbrokenbythemorninghymn，raisedonhighbythewholebodyoftheblacks；andinthismannertheirdailyworkisgenerallybegun。
　　Onsuchfazendasasthese，Ihavenodoubttheslavespasshappyandcontentedlives。OnSaturdayandSundaytheyworkforthemselves，andinthisfertileclimatethelabouroftwodaysissufficienttosupportamanandhisfamilyforthewholeweek。
　　April14th——LeavingSocego，werodetoanotherestateontheRioMacae，whichwasthelastpatchofcultivatedgroundinthatdirection。
　　Theestatewastwoandahalfmileslong，andtheownerhadforgottenhowmanybroad。Onlyaverysmallpiecehadbeencleared，yetalmosteveryacrewascapableofyieldingallthevariousrichproductionsofatropicalland。ConsideringtheenormousareaofBrazil，theproportionofcultivatedgroundcanscarcelybeconsideredasanything，comparedtothatwhichisleftinthestateofnature：atsomefutureage，howvastapopulationitwillsupport！Duringthesecondday’sjourneywefoundtheroadsoshutup，thatitwasnecessarythatamanshouldgoaheadwithaswordtocutawaythecreepers。Theforestaboundedwithbeautifulobjects；amongwhichthetreeferns，thoughnotlarge，were，fromtheirbrightgreenfoliage，andtheelegantcurvatureoftheirfronds，mostworthyofadmiration。Intheeveningitrainedveryheavily，andalthoughthethermometerstoodat65degs。，Ifeltverycold。Assoonastherainceased，itwascurioustoobservetheextraordinaryevaporationwhichcommencedoverthewholeextentoftheforest。Attheheightofahundredfeetthehillswereburiedinadensewhitevapour，whichroselikecolumnsofsmokefromthemostthicklywoodedparts，andespeciallyfromthevalleys。Iobservedthisphenomenononseveraloccasions。Isupposeitisowingtothelargesurfaceoffoliage，previouslyheatedbythesun’srays。
　　Whilestayingatthisestate，Iwasverynearlybeinganeye-witnesstooneofthoseatrociousactswhichcanonlytakeplaceinaslavecountry。
　　Owingtoaquarrelandalawsuit，theownerwasonthepointoftakingallthewomenandchildrenfromthemaleslaves，andsellingthemseparatelyatthepublicauctionatRio。Interest，andnotanyfeelingofcompassion，preventedthisact。Indeed，Idonotbelievetheinhumanityofseparatingthirtyfamilies，whohadlivedtogetherformanyyears，evenoccurredtotheowner。YetIwillpledgemyself，thatinhumanityandgoodfeelinghewassuperiortothecommonrunofmen。Itmaybesaidthereexistsnolimittotheblindnessofinterestandselfishhabit。Imaymentiononeverytriflinganecdote，whichatthetimestruckmemoreforciblythananystoryofcruelty。Iwascrossingaferrywithanegro，whowasuncommonlystupid。Inendeavouringtomakehimunderstand，Italkedloud，andmadesigns，indoingwhichIpassedmyhandnearhisface。He，Isuppose，thoughtIwasinapassion，andwasgoingtostrikehim；forinstantly，withafrightenedlookandhalf-shuteyes，hedroppedhishands。Ishallneverforgetmyfeelingsofsurprise，disgust，andshame，atseeingagreatpowerfulmanafraideventowardoffablow，directed，ashethought，athisface。
　　Thismanhadbeentrainedtoadegradationlowerthantheslaveryofthemosthelplessanimal。
　　April18th——InreturningwespenttwodaysatSocego，andIemployedthemincollectinginsectsintheforest。Thegreaternumberoftrees，althoughsolofty，arenotmorethanthreeorfourfeetincircumference。
　　Thereare，ofcourse，afewofmuchgreaterdimensions。SenhorManuelwasthenmakingacanoe70feetinlengthfromasolidtrunk，whichhadoriginallybeen110feetlong，andofgreatthickness。Thecontrastofpalmtrees，growingamidstthecommonbranchingkinds，neverfailstogivethesceneanintertropicalcharacter。HerethewoodswereornamentedbytheCabbagePalm——oneofthemostbeautifulofitsfamily。Withastemsonarrowthatitmightbeclaspedwiththetwohands，itwavesitselegantheadattheheightoffortyorfiftyfeetabovetheground。Thewoodycreepers，themselvescoveredbyothercreepers，wereofgreatthickness：somewhichImeasuredweretwofeetincircumference。Manyoftheoldertreespresentedaverycuriousappearancefromthetressesofalianahangingfromtheirboughs，andresemblingbundlesofhay。Iftheeyewasturnedfromtheworldoffoliageabove，tothegroundbeneath，itwasattractedbytheextremeeleganceoftheleavesofthefernsandmimosae。Thelatter，insomeparts，coveredthesurfacewithabrushwoodonlyafewincheshigh。Inwalkingacrossthesethickbedsofmimosae，abroadtrackwasmarkedbythechangeofshade，producedbythedroopingoftheirsensitivepetioles。Itiseasytospecifytheindividualobjectsofadmirationinthesegrandscenes；