6th——Weproceededduesouth，andsleptatRancagua。Theroadpassedoverthelevelbutnarrowplain，boundedononesidebyloftyhills，andontheotherbytheCordillera。ThenextdayweturnedupthevalleyoftheRioCachapual，inwhichthehot-bathsofCauquenes，longcelebratedfortheirmedicinalproperties，aresituated。Thesuspensionbridges，inthelessfrequentedparts，aregenerallytakendownduringthewinterwhentheriversarelow。Suchwasthecaseinthisvalley，andwewerethereforeobligedtocrossthestreamonhorseback。Thisisratherdisagreeable，forthefoamingwater，thoughnotdeep，rushessoquicklyoverthebedoflargeroundedstones，thatone’sheadbecomesquiteconfused，anditisdifficulteventoperceivewhetherthehorseismovingonwardorstandingstill。Insummer，whenthesnowmelts，thetorrentsarequiteimpassable；
　　theirstrengthandfuryarethenextremelygreat，asmightbeplainlyseenbythemarkswhichtheyhadleft。Wereachedthebathsintheevening，andstayedtherefivedays，beingconfinedthetwolastbyheavyrain。
　　Thebuildingsconsistofasquareofmiserablelittlehovels，eachwithasingletableandbench。TheyaresituatedinanarrowdeepvalleyjustwithoutthecentralCordillera。Itisaquiet，solitaryspot，withagooddealofwildbeauty。
　　ThemineralspringsofCauquenesburstforthonalineofdislocation，crossingamassofstratifiedrock，thewholeofwhichbetraystheactionofheat。Aconsiderablequantityofgasiscontinuallyescapingfromthesameorificeswiththewater。Thoughthespringsareonlyafewyardsapart，theyhaveverydifferenttemperature；andthisappearstobetheresultofanunequalmixtureofcoldwater：forthosewiththelowesttemperaturehavescarcelyanymineraltaste。Afterthegreatearthquakeof1822thespringsceased，andthewaterdidnotreturnfornearlyayear。Theywerealsomuchaffectedbytheearthquakeof1835；thetemperaturebeingsuddenlychangedfrom118to92degs。[1]Itseemsprobablethatmineralwatersrisingdeepfromthebowelsoftheearth，wouldalwaysbemorederangedbysubterraneandisturbancesthanthosenearerthesurface。
　　Themanwhohadchargeofthebathsassuredmethatinsummerthewaterishotterandmoreplentifulthaninwinter。TheformercircumstanceI
　　shouldhaveexpected，fromthelessmixture，duringthedryseason，ofcoldwater；butthelatterstatementappearsverystrangeandcontradictory。
　　Theperiodicalincreaseduringthesummer，whenrainneverfalls，can，Ithink，onlybeaccountedforbythemeltingofthesnow：yetthemountainswhicharecoveredbysnowduringthatseason，arethreeorfourleaguesdistantfromthesprings。Ihavenoreasontodoubttheaccuracyofmyinformer，who，havinglivedonthespotforseveralyears，oughttobewellacquaintedwiththecircumstance，——which，iftrue，certainlyisverycurious：forwemustsupposethatthesnow-water，beingconductedthroughporousstratatotheregionsofheat，isagainthrownuptothesurfacebythelineofdislocatedandinjectedrocksatCauquenes；andtheregularityofthephenomenonwouldseemtoindicatethatinthisdistrictheatedrockoccurredatadepthnotverygreat。
　　OnedayIrodeupthevalleytothefarthestinhabitedspot。Shortlyabovethatpoint，theCachapualdividesintotwodeeptremendousravines，whichpenetratedirectlyintothegreatrange。Iscrambledupapeakedmountain，probablymorethansixthousandfeethigh。Here，asindeedeverywhereelse，scenesofthehighestinterestpresentedthemselves。Itwasbyoneoftheseravines，thatPincheiraenteredChileandravagedtheneighbouringcountry。ThisisthesamemanwhoseattackonanestanciaattheRioNegroIhavedescribed。Hewasarenegadehalf-casteSpaniard，whocollectedagreatbodyofIndianstogetherandestablishedhimselfbyastreaminthePampas，whichplacenoneoftheforcessentafterhimcouldeverdiscover。
　　Fromthispointheusedtosallyforth，andcrossingtheCordillerabypasseshithertounattempted，heravagedthefarm-housesanddrovethecattletohissecretrendezvous。Pincheirawasacapitalhorseman，andhemadeallaroundhimequallygood，forheinvariablyshotanyonewhohesitatedtofollowhim。Itwasagainstthisman，andotherwanderingIndiantribes，thatRosaswagedthewarofextermination。
　　September13th——WeleftthebathsofCauquenes，and，rejoiningthemainroad，sleptattheRioClara。FromthisplacewerodetothetownofSanFernando。Beforearrivingthere，thelastland-lockedbasinhadexpandedintoagreatplain，whichextendedsofartothesouth，thatthesnowysummitsofthemoredistantAndeswereseenasifabovethehorizonofthesea。SanFernandoisfortyleaguesfromSantiago；anditwasmyfarthestpointsouthward；forwehereturnedatrightanglestowardsthecoast。Wesleptatthegold-minesofYaquil，whichareworkedbyMr。Nixon，anAmericangentleman，towhosekindnessIwasmuchindebtedduringthefourdaysIstayedathishouse。Thenextmorningwerodetothemines，whicharesituatedatthedistanceofsomeleagues，nearthesummitofaloftyhill。OnthewaywehadaglimpseofthelakeTagua-tagua，celebratedforitsfloatingislands，whichhavebeendescribedbyM。Gay。[2]Theyarecomposedofthestalksofvariousdeadplantsintertwinedtogether，andonthesurfaceofwhichotherlivingonestakeroot。Theirformisgenerallycircular，andtheirthicknessfromfourtosixfeet，ofwhichthegreaterpartisimmersedinthewater。Asthewindblows，theypassfromonesideofthelaketotheother，andoftencarrycattleandhorsesaspassengers。
　　Whenwearrivedatthemine，Iwasstruckbythepaleappearanceofmanyofthemen，andinquiredfromMr。Nixonrespectingtheircondition。
　　Themineis450feetdeep，andeachmanbringsupabout200poundsweightofstone。Withthisloadtheyhavetoclimbupthealternatenotchescutinthetrunksoftrees，placedinazigzaglineuptheshaft。Evenbeardlessyoungmen，eighteenandtwentyyearsold，withlittlemusculardevelopmentoftheirbodiestheyarequitenakedexceptingdrawersascendwiththisgreatloadfromnearlythesamedepth。Astrongman，whoisnotaccustomedtothislabour，perspiresmostprofusely，withmerelycarryinguphisownbody。Withthisveryseverelabour，theyliveentirelyonboiledbeansandbread。Theywouldpreferhavingbreadalone；buttheirmasters，findingthattheycannotworksoharduponthis，treatthemlikehorses，andmakethemeatthebeans。TheirpayishererathermorethanattheminesofJajuel，beingfrom24to28shillingspermonth。Theyleavethemineonlyonceinthreeweeks；whentheystaywiththeirfamiliesfortwodays。Oneoftherulesofthisminesoundsveryharsh，butanswersprettywellforthemaster。Theonlymethodofstealinggoldistosecretepiecesoftheore，andtakethemoutasoccasionmayoffer。Wheneverthemajor-domofindsalumpthushidden，itsfullvalueisstoppedoutofthewagesofallthemen；whothus，withouttheyallcombine，areobligedtokeepwatchovereachother。
　　Whentheoreisbroughttothemill，itisgroundintoanimpalpablepowder；theprocessofwashingremovesallthelighterparticles，andamalgamationfinallysecuresthegold-dust。Thewashing，whendescribed，soundsaverysimpleprocess；butitisbeautifultoseehowtheexactadaptationofthecurrentofwatertothespecificgravityofthegold，soeasilyseparatesthepowderedmatrixfromthemetal。Themudwhichpassesfromthemillsiscollectedintopools，whereitsubsides，andeverynowandthenisclearedout，andthrownintoacommonheap。Agreatdealofchemicalactionthencommences，saltsofvariouskindseffloresceonthesurface，andthemassbecomeshard。Afterhavingbeenleftforayearortwo，andthenrewashed，ityieldsgold；andthisprocessmayberepeatedevensixorseventimes；
　　butthegoldeachtimebecomeslessinquantity，andtheintervalsrequiredastheinhabitantssay，togeneratethemetalarelonger。Therecanbenodoubtthatthechemicalaction，alreadymentioned，eachtimeliberatesfreshgoldfromsomecombination。Thediscoveryofamethodtoeffectthisbeforethefirstgrindingwouldwithoutdoubtraisethevalueofgold-oresmanyfold。
　　Itiscurioustofindhowtheminuteparticlesofgold，beingscatteredaboutandnotcorroding，atlastaccumulateinsomequantity。Ashorttimesinceafewminers，beingoutofwork，obtainedpermissiontoscrapethegroundroundthehouseandmills；theywashedtheearththusgottogether，andsoprocuredthirtydollars’worthofgold。Thisisanexactcounterpartofwhattakesplaceinnature。Mountainssufferdegradationandwearaway，andwiththemthemetallicveinswhichtheycontain。Thehardestrockiswornintoimpalpablemud，theordinarymetalsoxidate，andbothareremoved；
　　butgold，platina，andafewothersarenearlyindestructible，andfromtheirweight，sinkingtothebottom，areleftbehind。Afterwholemountainshavepassedthroughthisgrindingmill，andhavebeenwashedbythehandofnature，theresiduebecomesmetalliferous，andmanfindsitworthhiswhiletocompletethetaskofseparation。
　　Badastheabovetreatmentoftheminersappears，itisgladlyacceptedofbythem；fortheconditionofthelabouringagriculturistsismuchworse。
　　Theirwagesarelower，andtheylivealmostexclusivelyonbeans。Thispovertymustbechieflyowingtothefeudal-likesystemonwhichthelandistilled：thelandownergivesasmallplotofgroundtothelabourerforbuildingonandcultivating，andinreturnhashisservicesorthoseofaproxyforeverydayofhislife，withoutanywages。Untilafatherhasagrown-upson，whocanbyhislabourpaytherent，thereisnoone，exceptonoccasionaldays，totakecareofhisownpatchofground。Henceextremepovertyisverycommonamongthelabouringclassesinthiscountry。
　　TherearesomeoldIndianruinsinthisneighbourhood，andIwasshownoneoftheperforatedstones，whichMolinamentionsasbeingfoundinmanyplacesinconsiderablenumbers。Theyareofacircularflattenedform，fromfivetosixinchesindiameter，withaholepassingquitethroughthecentre。Ithasgenerallybeensupposedthattheywereusedasheadstoclubs，althoughtheirformdoesnotappearatallwelladaptedforthatpurpose。Burchell[3]statesthatsomeofthetribesinSouthernAfricadiguprootsbytheaidofastickpointedatoneend，theforceandweightofwhichareincreasedbyaroundstonewithaholeinit，intowhichtheotherendisfirmlywedged。ItappearsprobablethattheIndiansofChileformerlyusedsomesuchrudeagriculturalinstrument。
　　Oneday，aGermancollectorinnaturalhistory，ofthenameofRenous，called，andnearlyatthesametimeanoldSpanishlawyer。Iwasamusedatbeingtoldtheconversationwhichtookplacebetweenthem。RenousspeaksSpanishsowell，thattheoldlawyermistookhimforaChilian。Renousalludingtome，askedhimwhathethoughtoftheKingofEnglandsendingoutacollectortotheircountry，topickuplizardsandbeetles，andtobreakstones？Theoldgentlemanthoughtseriouslyforsometime，andthensaid，“Itisnotwell，——_hayungatoencerradoaqui_thereisacatshutuphere。Nomanissorichastosendoutpeopletopickupsuchrubbish。Idonotlikeit：ifoneofusweretogoanddosuchthingsinEngland，donotyouthinktheKingofEnglandwouldverysoonsendusoutofhiscountry？”Andthisoldgentleman，fromhisprofession，belongstothebetterinformedandmoreintelligentclasses！Renoushimself，twoorthreeyearsbefore，leftinahouseatSanFernandosomecaterpillars，underchargeofagirltofeed，thattheymightturnintobutterflies。
　　Thiswasrumouredthroughthetown，andatlastthepadresandgovernorconsultedtogether，andagreeditmustbesomeheresy。Accordingly，whenRenousreturned，hewasarrested。
　　September19th——WeleftYaquil，andfollowedtheflatvalley，formedlikethatofQuillota，inwhichtheRioTinderidicaflows。EvenatthesefewmilessouthofSantiagotheclimateismuchdamper；inconsequencetherearefinetractsofpasturage，whicharenotirrigated。20th。Welfollowedthisvalleytillitexpandedintoagreatplain，whichreachesfromtheseatothemountainswestofRancagua。Weshortlylostalltreesandevenbushes；sothattheinhabitantsarenearlyasbadlyoffforfirewoodasthoseinthePampas。Neverhavingheardoftheseplains，IwasmuchsurprisedatmeetingwithsuchsceneryinChile。Theplainsbelongtomorethanoneseriesofdifferentelevations，andtheyaretraversedbybroadflat-bottomedvalleys；bothofwhichcircumstances，asinPatagonia，bespeaktheactionoftheseaongentlyrisingland。Inthesteepcliffsborderingthesevalleys，therearesomelargecaves，whichnodoubtwereoriginallyformedbythewaves：oneoftheseiscelebratedunderthenameofCuevadelObispo；havingformerlybeenconsecrated。DuringthedayIfeltveryunwell，andfromthattimetilltheendofOctoberdidnotrecover。
　　September22nd——Wecontinuedtopassovergreenplainswithoutatree。ThenextdaywearrivedatahousenearNavedad，onthesea-coast，wherearichHacienderogaveuslodgings。Istayedherethetwoensuingdays，andalthoughveryunwell，managedtocollectfromthetertiaryformationsomemarineshells。
　　24th——OurcoursewasnowdirectedtowardsValparaiso，whichwithgreatdifficultyIreachedonthe27th，andwasthereconfinedtomybedtilltheendofOctober。DuringthistimeIwasaninmateinMr。Corfield’shouse，whosekindnesstomeIdonotknowhowtoexpress。
　　IwillhereaddafewobservationsonsomeoftheanimalsandbirdsofChile。ThePuma，orSouthAmericanLion，isnotuncommon。Thisanimalhasawidegeographicalrange；beingfoundfromtheequatorialforests，throughoutthedesertsofPatagoniaasfarsouthasthedampandcoldlatitudes53to54degs。ofTierradelFuego。IhaveseenitsfootstepsintheCordilleraofcentralChile，atanelevationofatleast10，000feet。InLaPlatathepumapreyschieflyondeer，ostriches，bizcacha，andothersmallquadrupeds；itthereseldomattackscattleorhorses，andmostrarelyman。InChile，however，itdestroysmanyyounghorsesandcattle，owingprobablytothescarcityofotherquadrupeds：Iheard，likewise，oftwomenandawomanwhohadbeenthuskilled。Itisassertedthatthepumaalwayskillsitspreybyspringingontheshoulders，andthendrawingbacktheheadwithoneofitspaws，untilthevertebraebreak：IhaveseeninPatagoniatheskeletonsofguanacos，withtheirnecksthusdislocated。