26th——Thedayrosesplendidlyclear。ThevolcanoofOrsonowasspoutingoutvolumesofsmoke。Thismostbeautifulmountain，formedlikeaperfectcone，andwhitewithsnow，standsoutinfrontoftheCordillera。Anothergreatvolcano，withasaddle-shapedsummit，alsoemittedfromitsimmensecraterlittlejetsofsteam。Subsequentlywesawthelofty-peakedCorcovado——welldeservingthenameof“elfamosoCorcovado。”Thuswebeheld，fromonepointofview，threegreatactivevolcanoes，eachaboutseventhousandfeethigh。Inadditiontothis，fartothesouth，therewereotherloftyconescoveredwithsnow，which，althoughnotknowntobeactive，mustbeintheiroriginvolcanic。ThelineoftheAndesisnot，inthisneighbourhood，nearlysoelevatedasinChile；neitherdoesitappeartoformsoperfectabarrierbetweentheregionsoftheearth。Thisgreatrange，althoughrunninginastraightnorthandsouthline，owingtoanopticaldeception，alwaysappearedmoreorlesscurved；forthelinesdrawnfromeachpeaktothebeholder’seye，necessarilyconvergedliketheradiiofasemicircle，andasitwasnotpossibleowingtotheclearnessoftheatmosphereandtheabsenceofallintermediateobjectstojudgehowfardistantthefarthestpeakswereoff，theyappearedtostandinaflattishsemicircle。
　　Landingatmidday，wesawafamilyofpureIndianextraction。ThefatherwassingularlylikeYorkMinster；andsomeoftheyoungerboys，withtheirruddycomplexions，mighthavebeenmistakenforPampasIndians。EverythingIhaveseen，convincesmeofthecloseconnexionofthedifferentAmericantribes，whoneverthelessspeakdistinctlanguages。ThispartycouldmusterbutlittleSpanish，andtalkedtoeachotherintheirowntongue。Itisapleasantthingtoseetheaboriginesadvancedtothesamedegreeofcivilization，howeverlowthatmaybe，whichtheirwhiteconquerorshaveattained。MoretothesouthwesawmanypureIndians：indeed，alltheinhabitantsofsomeoftheisletsretaintheirIndiansurnames。Inthecensusof1832，therewereinChiloeanditsdependenciesforty-twothousandsouls；thegreaternumberoftheseappeartobeofmixedblood。EleventhousandretaintheirIndiansurnames，butitisprobablethatnotnearlyalloftheseareofapurebreed。Theirmanneroflifeisthesamewiththatoftheotherpoorinhabitants，andtheyareallChristians；butitissaidthattheyyetretainsomestrangesuperstitiousceremonies，andthattheypretendtoholdcommunicationwiththedevilincertaincaves。Formerly，everyoneconvictedofthisoffencewassenttotheInquisitionatLima。ManyoftheinhabitantswhoarenotincludedintheeleventhousandwithIndiansurnames，cannotbedistinguishedbytheirappearancefromIndians。Gomez，thegovernorofLemuy，isdescendedfromnoblemenofSpainonbothsides；
　　butbyconstantintermarriageswiththenativesthepresentmanisanIndian。
　　OntheotherhandthegovernorofQuinchaoboastsmuchofhispurelykeptSpanishblood。
　　Wereachedatnightabeautifullittlecove，northoftheislandofCaucahue。Thepeopleherecomplainedofwantofland。Thisispartlyowingtotheirownnegligenceinnotclearingthewoods，andpartlytorestrictionsbythegovernment，whichmakesitnecessary，beforebuyingeversosmallapiece，topaytwoshillingstothesurveyorformeasuringeachquadra150yardssquare，togetherwithwhateverpricehefixesforthevalueoftheland。Afterhisvaluationthelandmustbeputupthreetimestoauction，andifnoonebidsmore，thepurchasercanhaveitatthatrate。
　　Alltheseexactionsmustbeaseriouschecktoclearingtheground，wheretheinhabitantsaresoextremelypoor。Inmostcountries，forestsareremovedwithoutmuchdifficultybytheaidoffire；butinChiloe，fromthedampnatureoftheclimate，andthesortoftrees，itisnecessaryfirsttocutthemdown。ThisisaheavydrawbacktotheprosperityofChiloe。InthetimeoftheSpaniardstheIndianscouldnotholdland；andafamily，afterhavingclearedapieceofground，mightbedrivenaway，andthepropertyseizedbythegovernment。TheChilianauthoritiesarenowperforminganactofjusticebymakingretributiontothesepoorIndians，givingtoeachman，accordingtohisgradeoflife，acertainportionofland。Thevalueofunclearedgroundisverylittle。ThegovernmentgaveMr。Douglasthepresentsurveyor，whoinformedmeofthesecircumstanceseightandahalfsquaremilesofforestnearS。Carlos，inlieuofadebt；andthishesoldfor350dollars，orabout70poundssterling。
　　Thetwosucceedingdayswerefine，andatnightwereachedtheislandofQuinchao。ThisneighbourhoodisthemostcultivatedpartoftheArchipelago；
　　forabroadstripoflandonthecoastofthemainisland，aswellasonmanyofthesmalleradjoiningones，isalmostcompletelycleared。Someofthefarmhousesseemedverycomfortable。Iwascurioustoascertainhowrichanyofthesepeoplemightbe，butMr。Douglassaysthatnoonecanbeconsideredaspossessingaregularincome。Oneoftherichestland-ownersmightpossiblyaccumulate，inalongindustriouslife，asmuchas1000
　　poundssterling；butshouldthishappen，itwouldallbestowedawayinsomesecretcorner，foritisthecustomofalmosteveryfamilytohaveajarortreasure-chestburiedintheground。
　　November30th——EarlyonSundaymorningwereachedCastro，theancientcapitalofChiloe，butnowamostforlornanddesertedplace。TheusualquadrangulararrangementofSpanishtownscouldbetraced，butthestreetsandplazawerecoatedwithfinegreenturf，onwhichsheepwerebrowsing。
　　Thechurch，whichstandsinthemiddle，isentirelybuiltofplank，andhasapicturesqueandvenerableappearance。Thepovertyoftheplacemaybeconceivedfromthefact，thatalthoughcontainingsomehundredsofinhabitants，oneofourpartywasunableanywheretopurchaseeitherapoundofsugaroranordinaryknife。Noindividualpossessedeitherawatchoraclock；
　　andanoldman，whowassupposedtohaveagoodideaoftime，wasemployedtostrikethechurchbellbyguess。Thearrivalofourboatswasarareeventinthisquietretiredcorneroftheworld；andnearlyalltheinhabitantscamedowntothebeachtoseeuspitchourtents。Theywereverycivil，andofferedusahouse；andonemanevensentusacaskofciderasapresent。
　　Intheafternoonwepaidourrespectstothegovernor——aquietoldman，who，inhisappearanceandmanneroflife，wasscarcelysuperiortoanEnglishcottager。Atnightheavyrainsetin，whichwashardlysufficienttodriveawayfromourtentsthelargecircleoflookers-on。AnIndianfamily，whohadcometotradeinacanoefromCaylen，bivouackednearus。
　　Theyhadnoshelterduringtherain。InthemorningIaskedayoungIndian，whowaswettotheskin，howhehadpassedthenight。Heseemedperfectlycontent，andanswered，“Muybien，senor。”
　　December1st-WesteeredfortheislandofLemuy。Iwasanxioustoexamineareportedcoal-minewhichturnedouttobeligniteoflittlevalue，inthesandstoneprobablyofanancienttertiaryepochofwhichtheseislandsarecomposed。WhenwereachedLemuywehadmuchdifficultyinfindinganyplacetopitchourtents，foritwasspring-tide，andthelandwaswoodeddowntothewater’sedge。InashorttimeweweresurroundedbyalargegroupofthenearlypureIndianinhabitants。Theyweremuchsurprisedatourarrival，andsaidonetotheother，“Thisisthereasonwehaveseensomanyparrotslately；thecheucauanoddred-breastedlittlebird，whichinhabitsthethickforest，anduttersverypeculiarnoiseshasnotcried’beware’fornothing。”Theyweresoonanxiousforbarter。Moneywasscarcelyworthanything，buttheireagernessfortobaccowassomethingquiteextraordinary。Aftertobacco，indigocamenextinvalue；thencapsicum，oldclothes，andgunpowder。Thelatterarticlewasrequiredforaveryinnocentpurpose：eachparishhasapublicmusket，andthegunpowderwaswantedformakinganoiseontheirsaintorfeastdaysThepeopleherelivechieflyonshell-fishandpotatoes。Atcertainseasonstheycatchalso，in“corrales。”orhedgesunderwater，manyfishwhichareleftonthemud-banksasthetidefalls。Theyoccasionallypossessfowls，sheep，goats，pigs，horses，andcattle；theorderinwhichtheyareherementioned，expressingtheirrespectivenumbers。Ineversawanythingmoreobligingandhumblethanthemannersofthesepeople。Theygenerallybeganwithstatingthattheywerepoornativesoftheplace，andnotSpaniardsandthattheywereinsadwantoftobaccoandothercomforts。AtCaylen，themostsouthernisland，thesailorsboughtwithastickoftobacco，ofthevalueofthree-halfpence，twofowls，oneofwhich，theIndianstated，hadskinbetweenitstoes，andturnedouttobeafineduck；andwithsomecottonhandkerchiefs，worththreeshillings，threesheepandalargebunchofonionswereprocured。Theyawlatthisplacewasanchoredsomewayfromtheshore，andwehadfearsforhersafetyfromrobbersduringthenight。
　　Ourpilot，Mr。Douglas，accordinglytoldtheconstableofthedistrictthatwealwaysplacedsentinelswithloadedarmsandnotunderstandingSpanish，ifwesawanypersoninthedark，weshouldassuredlyshoothim。
　　Theconstable，withmuchhumility，agreedtotheperfectproprietyofthisarrangement，andpromisedusthatnooneshouldstiroutofhishouseduringthatnight。
　　Duringthefoursucceedingdayswecontinuedsailingsouthward。Thegeneralfeaturesofthecountryremainedthesame，butitwasmuchlessthicklyinhabited。OnthelargeislandofTanquitherewasscarcelyoneclearedspot，thetreesoneverysideextendingtheirbranchesoverthesea-beach。Ionedaynoticed，growingonthesandstonecliffs，someveryfineplantsofthepankeGunnerascabra，whichsomewhatresemblestherhubarbonagiganticscale。Theinhabitantseatthestalks，whicharesubacid，andtanleatherwiththeroots，andprepareablackdyefromthem。
　　Theleafisnearlycircular，butdeeplyindentedonitsmargin。Imeasuredonewhichwasnearlyeightfeetindiameter，andthereforenolessthantwenty-fourincircumference！Thestalkisrathermorethanayardhigh，andeachplantsendsoutfourorfiveoftheseenormousleaves，presentingtogetheraverynobleappearance。
　　December6th——WereachedCaylen，called“elfindelCristiandad。”
　　InthemorningwestoppedforafewminutesatahouseonthenorthernendofLaylec，whichwastheextremepointofSouthAmericanChristendom，andamiserablehovelitwas。Thelatitudeis43degs。10’，whichistwodegreesfarthersouththantheRioNegroontheAtlanticcoast。TheseextremeChristianswereverypoor，and，underthepleaoftheirsituation，beggedforsometobacco。AsaproofofthepovertyoftheseIndians，Imaymentionthatshortlybeforethis，wehadmetaman，whohadtravelledthreedaysandahalfonfoot，andhadasmanytoreturn，forthesakeofrecoveringthevalueofasmallaxeandafewfish。Howverydifficultitmustbetobuythesmallestarticle，whensuchtroubleistakentorecoversosmalladebt。
　　IntheeveningwereachedtheislandofSanPedro，wherewefoundtheBeagleatanchor。Indoublingthepoint，twooftheofficerslandedtotakearoundofangleswiththetheodolite。AfoxCanisfulvipes，ofakindsaidtobepeculiartotheisland，andveryrareinit，andwhichisanewspecies，wassittingontherocks。Hewassointentlyabsorbedinwatchingtheworkoftheofficers，thatIwasable，byquietlywalkingupbehind，toknockhimontheheadwithmygeologicalhammer。Thisfox，morecuriousormorescientific，butlesswise，thanthegeneralityofhisbrethren，isnowmountedinthemuseumoftheZoologicalSociety。
　　Westayedthreedaysinthisharbour，ononeofwhichCaptainFitzRoy，withaparty，attemptedtoascendtothesummitofSanPedro。Thewoodsherehadratheradifferentappearancefromthoseonthenorthernpartoftheisland。Therock，also，beingmicaceousslate，therewasnobeach，butthesteepsidesdippeddirectlybeneaththewater。ThegeneralaspectinconsequencewasmorelikethatofTierradelFuegothanofChiloe。Invainwetriedtogainthesummit：theforestwassoimpenetrable，thatnoonewhohasnotbehelditcanimaginesoentangledamassofdyinganddeadtrunks。Iamsurethatoften，formorethantenminutestogether，ourfeetnevertouchedtheground，andwewerefrequentlytenorfifteenfeetaboveit，sothattheseamenasajokecalledoutthesoundings。Atothertimeswecreptoneafteranotheronourhandsandknees，undertherottentrunks。Inthelowerpartofthemountain，nobletreesoftheWinter’sBark，andalaurellikethesassafraswithfragrantleaves，andothers，thenamesofwhichIdonotknow，weremattedtogetherbyatrailingbambooorcane。Hereweweremorelikefishesstrugglinginanetthananyotheranimal。Onthehigherparts，brushwoodtakestheplaceoflargertrees，withhereandtherearedcedaroranalercepine。Iwasalsopleasedtosee，atanelevationofalittlelessthan1000feet，ouroldfriendthesouthernbeech。Theywere，however，poorstuntedtrees，andIshouldthinkthatthismustbenearlytheirnorthernlimit。Weultimatelygaveuptheattemptindespair。
　　December10th——Theyawlandwhale-boat，withMr。Sulivan，proceededontheirsurvey，butIremainedonboardtheBeagle，whichthenextdayleftSanPedroforthesouthward。Onthe13thweranintoanopeninginthesouthernpartofGuayatecas，ortheChonosArchipelago；anditwasfortunatewedidso，foronthefollowingdayastorm，worthyofTierradelFuego，ragedwithgreatfury。Whitemassivecloudswerepiledupagainstadarkbluesky，andacrossthemblackraggedsheetsofvapourwererapidlydriven。Thesuccessivemountainrangesappearedlikedimshadows，andthesettingsuncastonthewoodlandayellowgleam，muchlikethatproducedbytheflameofspiritsofwine。Thewaterwaswhitewiththeflyingspray，andthewindlulledandroaredagainthroughtherigging：itwasanominous，sublimescene。Duringafewminutestherewasabrightrainbow，anditwascurioustoobservetheeffectofthespray，whichbeingcarriedalongthesurfaceofthewater，changedtheordinarysemicircleintoacircle——abandofprismaticcoloursbeingcontinued，frombothfeetofthecommonarchacrossthebay，closetothevessel’sside：thusformingadistorted，butverynearlyentirering。