whichsamecircumstancehasbeenmentionedassometimesoccurringwiththegreatrodent,theCapybara。Asmallsea-otterisverynumerous;thisanimaldoesnotfeedexclusivelyonfish,but,liketheseals,drawsalargesupplyfromasmallredcrab,whichswimsinshoalsnearthesurfaceofthewater。Mr。BynoesawoneinTierradelFuegoeatingacuttle-fish;
andatLow’sHarbour,anotherwaskilledintheactofcarryingtoitsholealargevoluteshell。AtoneplaceIcaughtinatrapasingularlittlemouseM。brachiotis;itappearedcommononseveraloftheislets,buttheChilotansatLow’sHarboursaidthatitwasnotfoundinall。Whatasuccessionofchances,[3]orwhatchangesoflevelmusthavebeenbroughtintoplay,thustospreadthesesmallanimalsthroughoutthisbrokenarchipelago!
InallpartsofChiloeandChonos,twoverystrangebirdsoccur,whicharealliedto,andreplace,theTurcoandTapacoloofcentralChile。Oneiscalledbytheinhabitants“Cheucau“Pteroptochosrubecula:itfrequentsthemostgloomyandretiredspotswithinthedampforests。Sometimes,althoughitscrymaybeheardcloseathand,letapersonwatcheversoattentivelyhewillnotseethecheucau;atothertimes,lethimstandmotionlessandthered-breastedlittlebirdwillapproachwithinafewfeetinthemostfamiliarmanner。Itthenbusilyhopsabouttheentangledmassofrottingconesandbranches,withitslittletailcockedupwards。ThecheucauisheldinsuperstitiousfearbytheChilotans,onaccountofitsstrangeandvariedcries。Therearethreeverydistinctcries:Oneiscalled“chiduco。”
andisanomenofgood;another,“huitreu。”whichisextremelyunfavourable;
andathird,whichIhaveforgotten。Thesewordsaregiveninimitationofthenoises;andthenativesareinsomethingsabsolutelygovernedbythem。TheChilotansassuredlyhavechosenamostcomicallittlecreaturefortheirprophet。Analliedspecies,butratherlarger,iscalledbythenatives“Guid-guid“PteroptochosTarnii,andbytheEnglishthebarking-bird。
Thislatternameiswellgiven;forIdefyanyoneatfirsttofeelcertainthatasmalldogisnotyelpingsomewhereintheforest。Justaswiththecheucau,apersonwillsometimeshearthebarkcloseby,butinvainmanyendeavourbywatching,andwithstilllesschancebybeatingthebushes,toseethebird;yetatothertimestheguid-guidfearlesslycomesnear。
Itsmanneroffeedinganditsgeneralhabitsareverysimilartothoseofthecheucau。
Onthecoast,[4]asmalldusky-colouredbirdOpetiorhynchusPatagonicusisverycommon。Itisremarkablefromitsquiethabits;itlivesentirelyonthesea-beach,likeasandpiper。Besidesthesebirdsonlyfewothersinhabitthisbrokenland。InmyroughnotesIdescribethestrangenoises,which,althoughfrequentlyheardwithinthesegloomyforests,yetscarcelydisturbthegeneralsilence。Theyelpingoftheguid-guid,andthesuddenwhew-whewofthecheucau,sometimescomefromafaroff,andsometimesfromcloseathand;thelittleblackwrenofTierradelFuegooccasionallyaddsitscry;thecreeperOxyurusfollowstheintruderscreamingandtwittering;thehumming-birdmaybeseeneverynowandthendartingfromsidetoside,andemitting,likeaninsect,itsshrillchirp;lastly,fromthetopofsomeloftytreetheindistinctbutplaintivenoteofthewhite-tuftedtyrant-flycatcherMyiobiusmaybenoticed。Fromthegreatpreponderanceinmostcountriesofcertaincommongeneraofbirds,suchasthefinches,onefeelsatfirstsurprisedatmeetingwiththepeculiarformsaboveenumerated,asthecommonestbirdsinanydistrict。IncentralChiletwoofthem,namely,theOxyurusandScytalopus,occur,althoughmostrarely。Whenfinding,asinthiscase,animalswhichseemtoplaysoinsignificantapartinthegreatschemeofnature,oneisapttowonderwhytheywerecreated。
Butitshouldalwaysberecollected,thatinsomeothercountryperhapstheyareessentialmembersofsociety,oratsomeformerperiodmayhavebeenso。IfAmericasouthof37degs。weresunkbeneaththewatersoftheocean,thesetwobirdsmightcontinuetoexistincentralChileforalongperiod,butitisveryimprobablethattheirnumberswouldincrease。Weshouldthenseeacasewhichmustinevitablyhavehappenedwithverymanyanimals。
ThesesouthernseasarefrequentedbyseveralspeciesofPetrels:thelargestkind,Procellariagigantea,ornellyquebrantahuesos,orbreak-bones,oftheSpaniards,isacommonbird,bothintheinlandchannelsandontheopensea。Initshabitsandmannerofflight,thereisaverycloseresemblancewiththealbatross;andaswiththealbatross,apersonmaywatchitforhourstogetherwithoutseeingonwhatitfeeds。The“break-bones“
is,however,arapaciousbird,foritwasobservedbysomeoftheofficersatPortSt。Antoniochasingadiver,whichtriedtoescapebydivingandflying,butwascontinuallystruckdown,andatlastkilledbyablowonitshead。AtPortSt。Julianthesegreatpetrelswereseenkillinganddevouringyounggulls。AsecondspeciesPuffinuscinereus,whichiscommontoEurope,CapeHorn,andthecoastofPeru,isofmuchsmallersizethantheP。gigantea,but,likeit,ofadirtyblackcolour。Itgenerallyfrequentstheinlandsoundsinverylargeflocks:IdonotthinkIeversawsomanybirdsofanyothersorttogether,asIoncesawofthesebehindtheislandofChiloe。Hundredsofthousandsflewinanirregularlineforseveralhoursinonedirection。Whenpartoftheflocksettledonthewaterthesurfacewasblackened,andanoiseproceededfromthemasofhumanbeingstalkinginthedistance。
Thereareseveralotherspeciesofpetrels,butIwillonlymentiononeotherkind,thePelacanoidesBerardiwhichoffersanexampleofthoseextraordinarycases,ofabirdevidentlybelongingtoonewell-markedfamily,yetbothinitshabitsandstructurealliedtoaverydistincttribe。Thisbirdneverleavesthequietinlandsounds。Whendisturbeditdivestoadistance,andoncomingtothesurface,withthesamemovementtakesflight。
Afterflyingbyarapidmovementofitsshortwingsforaspaceinastraightline,itdrops,asifstruckdead,anddivesagain。Theformofitsbeakandnostrils,lengthoffoot,andeventhecolouringofitsplumage,showthatthisbirdisapetrel:ontheotherhand,itsshortwingsandconsequentlittlepowerofflight,itsformofbodyandshapeoftail,theabsenceofahindtoetoitsfoot,itshabitofdiving,anditschoiceofsituation,makeitatfirstdoubtfulwhetheritsrelationshipisnotequallyclosewiththeauks。Itwouldundoubtedlybemistakenforanauk,whenseenfromadistance,eitheronthewing,orwhendivingandquietlyswimmingabouttheretiredchannelsofTierradelFuego。[1]HorticulturalTransact。,vol。v。p。249。Mr。
Caldeleughsenthometwotubers,which,beingwellmanured,eventhefirstseasonproducednumerouspotatoesandanabundanceofleaves。SeeHumboldt’sinterestingdiscussiononthisplant,whichitappearswasunknowninMexico,——inPolit。EssayonNewSpain,bookiv。chap。ix。
[2]Bysweepingwithmyinsect-net,Iprocuredfromthesesituationsaconsiderablenumberofminuteinsects,ofthefamilyofStaphylinidae,andothersalliedtoPselaphus,andminuteHymenoptera。
Butthemostcharacteristicfamilyinnumber,bothofindividualsandspecies,throughoutthemoreopenpartsofChiloeandChonosisthatofTelephoridae。
[3]Itissaidthatsomerapaciousbirdsbringtheirpreyalivetotheirnests。Ifso,inthecourseofcenturies,everynowandthen,onemightescapefromtheyoungbirds。Somesuchagencyisnecessary,toaccountforthedistributionofthesmallergnawinganimalsonislandsnotveryneareachother。
[4]Imaymention,asaproofofhowgreatadifferencethereisbetweentheseasonsofthewoodedandtheopenpartsofthiscoast,thatonSeptember20th,inlat。34degs。,thesebirdshadyoungonesinthenest,whileamongtheChonosIslands,threemonthslaterinthesummer,theywereonlylaying,thedifferenceinlatitudebetweenthesetwoplacesbeingabout700miles。PreviousChapterNextChapterTheVoyageoftheBeagle-Chapter14TheVoyageoftheBeaglebyCharlesDarwinPreviousChapterNextChapterChapter14-ChiloeandConcepcion:GreatEarthquakeONJANUARYthe15thwesailedfromLow’sHarbour,andthreedaysafterwardsanchoredasecondtimeinthebayofS。CarlosinChiloe。Onthenightofthe19ththevolcanoofOsornowasinaction。Atmidnightthesentryobservedsomethinglikealargestar,whichgraduallyincreasedinsizetillaboutthreeo’clock,whenitpresentedaverymagnificentspectacle。
Bytheaidofaglass,darkobjects,inconstantsuccession,wereseen,inthemidstofagreatglareofredlight,tobethrownupandtofalldown。Thelightwassufficienttocastonthewateralongbrightreflection。
LargemassesofmoltenmatterseemverycommonlytobecastoutofthecratersinthispartoftheCordillera。IwasassuredthatwhentheCorcovadoisineruption,greatmassesareprojectedupwardsandareseentoburstintheair,assumingmanyfantasticalforms,suchastrees:theirsizemustbeimmense,fortheycanbedistinguishedfromthehighlandbehindS。Carlos,whichisnolessthanninety-threemilesfromtheCorcovado。
Inthemorningthevolcanobecametranquil。
IwassurprisedathearingafterwardsthatAconcaguainChile,480milesnorthwards,wasinactiononthesamenight;andstillmoresurprisedtohearthatthegreateruptionofCoseguina2700milesnorthofAconcagua,accompaniedbyanearthquakefeltovera1000miles,alsooccurredwithinsixhoursofthissametime。Thiscoincidenceisthemoreremarkable,asCoseguinahadbeendormantfortwenty-sixyears;andAconcaguamostrarelyshowsanysignsofaction。Itisdifficulteventoconjecturewhetherthiscoincidencewasaccidental,orshowssomesubterraneanconnection。IfVesuvius,Etna,andHeclainIcelandallthreerelativelynearereachotherthanthecorrespondingpointsinSouthAmerica,suddenlyburstforthineruptiononthesamenight,thecoincidencewouldbethoughtremarkable;butitisfarmoreremarkableinthiscase,wherethethreeventsfallonthesamegreatmountain-chain,andwherethevastplainsalongtheentireeasterncoast,andtheupraisedrecentshellsalongmorethan2000milesonthewesterncoast,showinhowequableandconnectedamannertheelevatoryforceshaveacted。
CaptainFitzRoybeinganxiousthatsomebearingsshouldbetakenontheoutercoastofChiloe,itwasplannedthatMr。KingandmyselfshouldridetoCastro,andthenceacrosstheislandtotheCapelladeCucao,situatedonthewestcoast。Havinghiredhorsesandaguide,wesetoutonthemorningofthe22nd。Wehadnotproceededfar,beforewewerejoinedbyawomanandtwoboys,whowerebentonthesamejourney。Everyoneonthisroadactsona“hailfellowwellmet“fashion;andonemayhereenjoytheprivilege,sorareinSouthAmerica,oftravellingwithoutfirearms。Atfirst,thecountryconsistedofasuccessionofhillsandvalleys:nearertoCastroitbecameverylevel。Theroaditselfisacuriousaffair;itconsistsinitswholelength,withtheexceptionofveryfewparts,ofgreatlogsofwood,whichareeitherbroadandlaidlongitudinally,ornarrowandplacedtransversely。Insummertheroadisnotverybad;butinwinter,whenthewoodisrenderedslipperyfromrain,travellingisexceedinglydifficult。Atthattimeoftheyear,thegroundoneachsidebecomesamorass,andisoftenoverflowed:henceitisnecessarythatthelongitudinallogsshouldbefasteneddownbytransversepoles,whicharepeggedoneachsideintotheearth。Thesepegsrenderafallfromahorsedangerous,asthechanceofalightingononeofthemisnotsmall。Itisremarkable,however,howactivecustomhasmadetheChilotanhorses。Incrossingbadparts,wherethelogshadbeendisplaced,theyskippedfromonetotheother,almostwiththequicknessandcertaintyofadog。Onbothhandstheroadisborderedbytheloftyforest-trees,withtheirbasesmattedtogetherbycanes。Whenoccasionallyalongreachofthisavenuecouldbebeheld,itpresentedacurioussceneofuniformity:thewhitelineoflogs,narrowinginperspective,becamehiddenbythegloomyforest,orterminatedinazigzagwhichascendedsomesteephill。
AlthoughthedistancefromS。CarlostoCastroisonlytwelveleaguesinastraightline,theformationoftheroadmusthavebeenagreatlabour。
Iwastoldthatseveralpeoplehadformerlylosttheirlivesinattemptingtocrosstheforest。ThefirstwhosucceededwasanIndian,whocuthiswaythroughthecanesineightdays,andreachedS。Carlos:hewasrewardedbytheSpanishgovernmentwithagrantofland。Duringthesummer,manyoftheIndianswanderabouttheforestsbutchieflyinthehigherparts,wherethewoodsarenotquitesothickinsearchofthehalf-wildcattlewhichliveontheleavesofthecaneandcertaintrees。Itwasoneofthesehuntsmenwhobychancediscovered,afewyearssince,anEnglishvessel,whichhadbeenwreckedontheoutercoast。Thecrewwerebeginningtofailinprovisions,anditisnotprobablethat,withouttheaidofthisman,theywouldeverhaveextricatedthemselvesfromthesescarcelypenetrablewoods。Asitwas,oneseamandiedonthemarch,fromfatigue。TheIndiansintheseexcursionssteerbythesun;sothatifthereisacontinuanceofcloudyweather,theycannottravel。
Thedaywasbeautiful,andthenumberoftreeswhichwereinfullflowerperfumedtheair;yeteventhiscouldhardlydissipatetheeffectsofthegloomydampnessoftheforest。Moreover,themanydeadtrunksthatstandlikeskeletons,neverfailtogivetotheseprimevalwoodsacharacterofsolemnity,absentinthoseofcountrieslongcivilized。Shortlyaftersunsetwebivouackedforthenight。Ourfemalecompanion,whowasrathergood-looking,belongedtooneofthemostrespectablefamiliesinCastro: