intwoorthreesecondsrecoveringtheirbreath，theywipedthesweatfromtheirbrows，andapparentlyquitefreshdescendedthemineagainataquickpace。Thisappearstomeawonderfulinstanceoftheamountoflabourwhichhabit，foritcanbenothingelse，willenableamantoendure。
　　Intheevening，talkingwiththe_mayor-domo_oftheseminesaboutthenumberofforeignersnowscatteredoverthewholecountry，hetoldmethat，thoughquiteayoungman，herememberswhenhewasaboyatschoolatCoquimbo，aholidaybeinggiventoseethecaptainofanEnglishship，whowasbroughttothecitytospeaktothegovernor。Hebelievesthatnothingwouldhaveinducedanyboyintheschool，himselfincluded，tohavegoneclosetotheEnglishman；sodeeplyhadtheybeenimpressedwithanideaoftheheresy，contamination，andeviltobederivedfromcontactwithsuchaperson。
　　Tothisdaytheyrelatetheatrociousactionsofthebucaniers；andespeciallyofoneman，whotookawaythefigureoftheVirginMary，andreturnedtheyearafterforthatofSt。Joseph，sayingitwasapitytheladyshouldnothaveahusband。Iheardalsoofanoldladywho，atadinneratCoquimbo，remarkedhowwonderfullystrangeitwasthatsheshouldhavelivedtodineinthesameroomwithanEnglishman；forsherememberedasagirl，thattwice，atthemerecryof“LosIngleses。”everysoul，carryingwhatvaluablestheycould，hadtakentothemountains。
　　14th——WereachedCoquimbo，wherewestayedafewdays。Thetownisremarkablefornothingbutitsextremequietness。Itissaidtocontainfrom6000to8000inhabitants。Onthemorningofthe17thitrainedlightly，thefirsttimethisyear，foraboutfivehours。Thefarmers，whoplantcornnearthesea-coastwheretheatmosphereismosthumid，takingadvantageofthisshower，wouldbreakuptheground；afterasecondtheywouldputtheseedin；andifathirdshowershouldfall，theywouldreapagoodharvestinthespring。Itwasinterestingtowatchtheeffectofthistriflingamountofmoisture。Twelvehoursafterwardsthegroundappearedasdryasever；yetafteranintervaloftendays，allthehillswerefaintlytingedwithgreenpatches；thegrassbeingsparinglyscatteredinhair-likefibresafullinchinlength。Beforethisshowereverypartofthesurfacewasbareasonahighroad。
　　Intheevening，CaptainFitzRoyandmyselfwerediningwithMr。Edwards，anEnglishresidentwellknownforhishospitalitybyallwhohavevisitedCoquimbo，whenasharpearthquakehappened。Iheardtheforecomingrumble，butfromthescreamsoftheladies，therunningoftheservants，andtherushofseveralofthegentlementothedoorway，Icouldnotdistinguishthemotion。Someofthewomenafterwardswerecryingwithterror，andonegentlemansaidheshouldnotbeabletosleepallnight，orifhedid，itwouldonlybetodreamoffallinghouses。ThefatherofthispersonhadlatelylostallhispropertyatTalcahuano，andhehimselfhadonlyjustescapedafallingroofatValparaiso，in1822。Hementionedacuriouscoincidencewhichthenhappened：hewasplayingatcards，whenaGerman，oneoftheparty，gotup，andsaidhewouldneversitinaroominthesecountrieswiththedoorshut，asowingtohishavingdoneso，hehadnearlylosthislifeatCopiapo。Accordinglyheopenedthedoor；andnosoonerhadhedonethis，thanhecriedout，“Hereitcomesagain！”andthefamousshockcommenced。Thewholepartyescaped。Thedangerinanearthquakeisnotfromthetimelostinopeningthedoor，butfromthechanceofitsbecomingjammedbythemovementofthewalls。
　　Itisimpossibletobemuchsurprisedatthefearwhichnativesandoldresidents，thoughsomeofthemknowntobemenofgreatcommandofmind，sogenerallyexperienceduringearthquakes。Ithink，however，thisexcessofpanicmaybepartlyattributedtoawantofhabitingoverningtheirfear，asitisnotafeelingtheyareashamedof。Indeed，thenativesdonotliketoseeapersonindifferent。IheardoftwoEnglishmenwho，sleepingintheopenairduringasmartshock，knowingthattherewasnodanger，didnotrise。Thenativescriedoutindignantly，“Lookatthoseheretics，theydonotevengetoutoftheirbeds！”
　　Ispentsomedaysinexaminingthestep-formedterracesofshingle，firstnoticedbyCaptainB。Hall，andbelievedbyMr。Lyelltohavebeenformedbythesea，duringthegradualrisingoftheland。Thiscertainlyisthetrueexplanation，forIfoundnumerousshellsofexistingspeciesontheseterraces。Fivenarrow，gentlysloping，fringe-liketerracesriseonebehindtheother，andwherebestdevelopedareformedofshingle：theyfrontthebay，andsweepupbothsidesofthevalley。AtGuasco，northofCoquimbo，thephenomenonisdisplayedonamuchgranderscale，soastostrikewithsurpriseevensomeoftheinhabitants。Theterracesaretheremuchbroader，andmaybecalledplains，insomepartstherearesixofthem，butgenerallyonlyfive；theyrunupthevalleyforthirty-sevenmilesfromthecoast。Thesestep-formedterracesorfringescloselyresemblethoseinthevalleyofS。Cruz，and，exceptinbeingonasmallerscale，thosegreatonesalongthewholecoast-lineofPatagonia。Theyhaveundoubtedlybeenformedbythedenudingpowerofthesea，duringlongperiodsofrestinthegradualelevationofthecontinent。
　　ShellsofmanyexistingspeciesnotonlylieonthesurfaceoftheterracesatCoquimbotoaheightof250feet，butareembeddedinafriablecalcareousrock，whichinsomeplacesisasmuchasbetweentwentyandthirtyfeetinthickness，butisoflittleextent。Thesemodernbedsrestonanancienttertiaryformationcontainingshells，apparentlyallextinct。AlthoughIexaminedsomanyhundredmilesofcoastonthePacific，aswellasAtlanticsideofthecontinent，Ifoundnoregularstratacontainingsea-shellsofrecentspecies，exceptingatthisplace，andatafewpointsnorthwardontheroadtoGuasco。Thisfactappearstomehighlyremarkable；fortheexplanationgenerallygivenbygeologists，oftheabsenceinanydistrictofstratifiedfossiliferousdepositsofagivenperiod，namely，thatthesurfacethenexistedasdryland，isnothereapplicable；forweknowfromtheshellsstrewedonthesurfaceandembeddedinloosesandormouldthatthelandforthousandsofmilesalongbothcoastshaslatelybeensubmerged。
　　Theexplanation，nodoubt，mustbesoughtinthefact，thatthewholesouthernpartofthecontinenthasbeenforalongtimeslowlyrising；andthereforethatallmatterdepositedalongshoreinshallowwater，musthavebeensoonbroughtupandslowlyexposedtothewearingactionofthesea-beach；
　　anditisonlyincomparativelyshallowwaterthatthegreaternumberofmarineorganicbeingscanflourish，andinsuchwateritisobviouslyimpossiblethatstrataofanygreatthicknesscanaccumulate。Toshowthevastpowerofthewearingactionofsea-beaches，weneedonlyappealtothegreatcliffsalongthepresentcoastofPatagonia，andtotheescarpmentsorancientsea-cliffsatdifferentlevels，oneaboveanother，onthatsamelineofcoast。
　　TheoldunderlyingtertiaryformationatCoquimbo，appearstobeofaboutthesameagewithseveraldepositsonthecoastofChileofwhichthatofNavedadistheprincipalone，andwiththegreatformationofPatagonia。BothatNavedadandinPatagoniathereisevidence，thatsincetheshellsalistofwhichhasbeenseenbyProfessorE。Forbesthereentombedwereliving，therehasbeenasubsidenceofseveralhundredfeet，aswellasanensuingelevation。Itmaynaturallybeasked，howitcomesthat，althoughnoextensivefossiliferousdepositsoftherecentperiod，norofanyperiodintermediatebetweenitandtheancienttertiaryepoch，havebeenpreservedoneithersideofthecontinent，yetthatatthisancienttertiaryepoch，sedimentarymattercontainingfossilremains，shouldhavebeendepositedandpreservedatdifferentpointsinnorthandsouthlines，overaspaceof1100milesontheshoresofthePacific，andofatleast1350milesontheshoresoftheAtlantic，andinaneastandwestlineof700milesacrossthewidestpartofthecontinent？Ibelievetheexplanationisnotdifficult，andthatitisperhapsapplicabletonearlyanalogousfactsobservedinotherquartersoftheworld。Consideringtheenormouspowerofdenudationwhichtheseapossesses，asshownbynumberlessfacts，itisnotprobablethatasedimentarydeposit，whenbeingupraised，couldpassthroughtheordealofthebeach，soastobepreservedinsufficientmassestolasttoadistantperiod，withoutitwereoriginallyofwideextentandofconsiderablethickness：nowitisimpossibleonamoderatelyshallowbottom，whichaloneisfavourabletomostlivingcreatures，thatathickandwidelyextendedcoveringofsedimentcouldbespreadout，withoutthebottomsankdowntoreceivethesuccessivelayers。ThisseemstohaveactuallytakenplaceataboutthesameperiodinsouthernPatagoniaandChile，thoughtheseplacesareathousandmilesapart。Hence，ifprolongedmovementsofapproximatelycontemporaneoussubsidencearegenerallywidelyextensive，asIamstronglyinclinedtobelievefrommyexaminationoftheCoralReefsofthegreatoceans——orif，confiningourviewtoSouthAmerica，thesubsidingmovementshavebeencoextensivewiththoseofelevation，bywhich，withinthesameperiodofexistingshells，theshoresofPeru，Chile，TierradelFuego，Patagonia，andLaPlatahavebeenupraised——
　　thenwecanseethatatthesametime，atfardistantpoints，circumstanceswouldhavebeenfavourabletotheformationoffossiliferousdepositsofwideextentandofconsiderablethickness；andsuchdeposits，consequently，wouldhaveagoodchanceofresistingthewearandtearofsuccessivebeach-lines，andoflastingtoafutureepoch。
　　May21st——IsetoutincompanywithDonJoseEdwardstothesilver-mineofArqueros，andthenceupthevalleyofCoquimbo。Passingthroughamountainouscountry，wereachedbynightfalltheminesbelongingtoMr。Edwards。I
　　enjoyedmynight’srestherefromareasonwhichwillnotbefullyappreciatedinEngland，namely，theabsenceoffleas！TheroomsinCoquimboswarmwiththem；buttheywillnotlivehereattheheightofonlythreeorfourthousandfeet：itcanscarcelybethetriflingdiminutionoftemperature，butsomeothercausewhichdestroysthesetroublesomeinsectsatthisplace。Theminesarenowinabadstate，thoughtheyformerlyyieldedabout2000poundsinweightofsilverayear。Ithasbeensaidthat“apersonwithacopper-minewillgain；withsilverhemaygain；butwithgoldheissuretolose。”
　　Thisisnottrue：allthelargeChilianfortuneshavebeenmadebyminesofthemorepreciousmetals。AshorttimesinceanEnglishphysicianreturnedtoEnglandfromCopiapo，takingwithhimtheprofitsofoneshareofasilver-mine，whichamountedtoabout24，000poundssterling。Nodoubtacopper-minewithcareisasuregame，whereastheotherisgambling，orrathertakingaticketinalottery。Theownerslosegreatquantitiesofrichores；fornoprecautionscanpreventrobberies。Iheardofagentlemanlayingabetwithanother，thatoneofhismenshouldrobhimbeforehisface。Theorewhenbroughtoutofthemineisbrokenintopieces，andtheuselessstonethrownononeside。Acoupleoftheminerswhowerethusemployed，pitched，asifbyaccident，twofragmentsawayatthesamemoment，andthencriedoutforajoke“Letusseewhichrollsfurthest。”Theowner，whowasstandingby，betacigarwithhisfriendontherace。Theminerbythismeanswatchedtheverypointamongsttherubbishwherethestonelay。Intheeveninghepickeditupandcarriedittohismaster，showinghimarichmassofsilver-ore，andsaying，“Thiswasthestoneonwhichyouwonacigarbyitsrollingsofar。”
　　May23rd——WedescendedintothefertilevalleyofCoquimbo，andfollowedittillwereachedanHaciendabelongingtoarelationofDonJose，wherewestayedthenextday。Ithenrodeoneday’sjourneyfurther，toseewhatweredeclaredtobesomepetrifiedshellsandbeans，whichlatterturnedouttobesmallquartzpebbles。Wepassedthroughseveralsmallvillages；
　　andthevalleywasbeautifullycultivated，andthewholesceneryverygrand。
　　WewereherenearthemainCordillera，andthesurroundinghillswerelofty。
　　InallpartsofnorthernChile，fruittreesproducemuchmoreabundantlyataconsiderableheightneartheAndesthaninthelowercountry。Thefigsandgrapesofthisdistrictarefamousfortheirexcellence，andarecultivatedtoagreatextent。Thisvalleyis，perhaps，themostproductiveonenorthofQuillota。Ibelieveitcontains，includingCoquimbo，25，000
　　inhabitants。ThenextdayIreturnedtotheHacienda，andthence，togetherwithDonJose，toCoquimbo。
　　June2nd——WesetoutforthevalleyofGuasco，followingthecoast-road，whichwasconsideredratherlessdesertthantheother。Ourfirstday’sridewastoasolitaryhouse，calledYerbaBuena，wheretherewaspastureforourhorses。Theshowermentionedashavingfallen，afortnightago，onlyreachedabouthalf-waytoGuasco；wehad，therefore，inthefirstpartofourjourneyamostfainttingeofgreen，whichsoonfadedquiteaway。Evenwherebrightest，itwasscarcelysufficienttoremindoneofthefreshturfandbuddingflowersofthespringofothercountries。Whiletravellingthroughthesedesertsonefeelslikeaprisonershutupinagloomycourt，wholongstoseesomethinggreenandtosmellamoistatmosphere。
　　June3rd——YerbaBuenatoCarizal。Duringthefirstpartofthedaywecrossedamountainousrockydesert，andafterwardsalongdeepsandyplain，strewedwithbrokenseashells。Therewasverylittlewater，andthatlittlesaline：thewholecountry，fromthecoasttotheCordillera，isanuninhabiteddesert。Isawtracesonlyofonelivinganimalinabundance，namely，theshellsofaBulimus，whichwerecollectedtogetherinextraordinarynumbersonthedriestspots。Inthespringonehumblelittleplantsendsoutafewleaves，andonthesethesnailsfeed。Astheyareseenonlyveryearlyinthemorning，whenthegroundisslightlydampwithdew，theGuascosbelievethattheyarebredfromit。Ihaveobservedinotherplacesthatextremelydryandsteriledistricts，wherethesoiliscalcareous，areextraordinarilyfavourabletoland-shells。AtCarizaltherewereafewcottages，somebrackishwater，andatraceofcultivation：butitwaswithdifficultythatwepurchasedalittlecornandstrawforourhorses。
　　4th——CarizaltoSauce。Wecontinuedtorideoverdesertplains，tenantedbylargeherdsofguanaco。WecrossedalsothevalleyofChaneral；which，althoughthemostfertileonebetweenGuascoandCoquimbo，isverynarrow，andproducessolittlepasture，thatwecouldnotpurchaseanyforourhorses。AtSaucewefoundaveryciviloldgentleman，superintendentofacopper-smeltingfurnace。Asanespecialfavour，heallowedmetopurchaseatahighpriceanarmfulofdirtystraw，whichwasallthepoorhorseshadforsupperaftertheirlongday’sjourney。Fewsmelting-furnacesarenowatworkinanypartofChile；itisfoundmoreprofitable，onaccountoftheextremescarcityoffirewood，andfromtheChilianmethodofreductionbeingsounskilful，toshiptheoreforSwansea。ThenextdaywecrossedsomemountainstoFreyrina，inthevalleyofGuasco。Duringeachday’sridefurthernorthward，thevegetationbecamemoreandmorescanty；eventhegreatchandelier-likecactuswasherereplacedbyadifferentandmuchsmallerspecies。Duringthewintermonths，bothinnorthernChileandinPeru，auniformbankofcloudshangs，atnogreatheight，overthePacific。