TheislandofSt。Jago，attheCapedeVerds，offersanotherstronglymarkedinstanceofacountry，whichanyonewouldhaveexpectedtofindmosthealthy，beingverymuchthecontrary。Ihavedescribedthebareandopenplainsassupporting，duringafewweeksaftertherainyseason，athinvegetation，whichdirectlywithersawayanddriesup：atthisperiodtheairappearstobecomequitepoisonous；bothnativesandforeignersoftenbeingaffectedwithviolentfevers。Ontheotherhand，theGalapagosArchipelago，inthePacific，withasimilarsoil，andperiodicallysubjecttothesameprocessofvegetation，isperfectlyhealthy。Humboldthasobserved，that，“underthetorridzone，thesmallestmarshesarethemostdangerous，beingsurrounded，asatVeraCruzandCarthagena，withanaridandsandysoil，whichraisesthetemperatureoftheambientair。”[5]OnthecoastofPeru，however，thetemperatureisnothottoanyexcessivedegree；andperhapsinconsequence，theintermittentfeversarenotofthemostmalignantorder。Inallunhealthycountriesthegreatestriskisrunbysleepingonshore。Isthisowingtothestateofthebodyduringsleep，ortoagreaterabundanceofmiasmaatsuchtimes？Itappearscertainthatthosewhostayonboardavessel，thoughanchoredatonlyashortdistancefromthecoast，generallysufferlessthanthoseactuallyonshore。
　　Ontheotherhand，Ihaveheardofoneremarkablecasewhereafeverbrokeoutamongthecrewofaman-of-warsomehundredmilesoffthecoastofAfrica，andatthesametimeoneofthosefearfulperiods[6]ofdeathcommencedatSierraLeone。
　　NostateinSouthAmerica，sincethedeclarationofindependence，hassufferedmorefromanarchythanPeru。Atthetimeofourvisit，therewerefourchiefsinarmscontendingforsupremacyinthegovernment：ifonesucceededinbecomingforatimeverypowerful，theotherscoalescedagainsthim；butnosoonerweretheyvictorious，thantheywereagainhostiletoeachother。Theotherday，attheAnniversaryoftheIndependence，highmasswasperformed，thePresidentpartakingofthesacrament：duringthe_TeDeumlaudamus_，insteadofeachregimentdisplayingthePeruvianflag，ablackonewithdeath’sheadwasunfurled。Imagineagovernmentunderwhichsuchascenecouldbeordered，onsuchanoccasion，tobetypicaloftheirdeterminationoffightingtodeath！Thisstateofaffairshappenedatatimeveryunfortunatelyforme，asIwasprecludedfromtakinganyexcursionsmuchbeyondthelimitsofthetown。ThebarrenislandofSt。
　　Lorenzo，whichformstheharbour，wasnearlytheonlyplacewhereonecouldwalksecurely。Theupperpart，whichisupwardsof1000feetinheight，duringthisseasonoftheyearwinter，comeswithinthelowerlimitoftheclouds；andinconsequence，anabundantcryptogamicvegetation，andafewflowerscoverthesummit。OnthehillsnearLima，ataheightbutlittlegreater，thegroundiscarpetedwithmoss，andbedsofbeautifulyellowlilies，calledAmancaes。Thisindicatesaverymuchgreaterdegreeofhumidity，thanatacorrespondingheightatIquique。ProceedingnorthwardofLima，theclimatebecomesdamper，tillonthebanksoftheGuayaquil，nearlyundertheequator，wefindthemostluxuriantforests。Thechange，however，fromthesterilecoastofPerutothatfertilelandisdescribedastakingplaceratherabruptlyinthelatitudeofCapeBlanco，twodegreessouthofGuayaquil。
　　Callaoisafilthy，ill-built，smallseaport。Theinhabitants，bothhereandatLima，presenteveryimaginableshadeofmixture，betweenEuropean，Negro，andIndianblood。Theyappearadepraved，drunkensetofpeople。
　　Theatmosphereisloadedwithfoulsmells，andthatpeculiarone，whichmaybeperceivedinalmosteverytownwithinthetropics，washereverystrong。Thefortress，whichwithstoodLordCochrane’slongsiege，hasanimposingappearance。ButthePresident，duringourstay，soldthebrassguns，andproceededtodismantlepartsofit。Thereasonassignedwas，thathehadnotanofficertowhomhecouldtrustsoimportantacharge。
　　Hehimselfhadgoodreasonforthinkingso，ashehadobtainedthepresidentshipbyrebellingwhileinchargeofthissamefortress。AfterweleftSouthAmerica，hepaidthepenaltyintheusualmanner，bybeingconquered，takenprisoner，andshot。
　　Limastandsonaplaininavalley，formedduringthegradualretreatofthesea。ItissevenmilesfromCallao，andiselevated500feetaboveit；butfromtheslopebeingverygradual，theroadappearsabsolutelylevel；sothatwhenatLimaitisdifficulttobelieveonehasascendedevenonehundredfeet：Humboldthasremarkedonthissingularlydeceptivecase。Steepbarrenhillsriselikeislandsfromtheplain，whichisdivided，bystraightmud-walls，intolargegreenfields。Inthesescarcelyatreegrowsexceptingafewwillows，andanoccasionalclumpofbananasandoforanges。ThecityofLimaisnowinawretchedstateofdecay：thestreetsarenearlyunpaved；andheapsoffiltharepiledupinalldirections，wheretheblackgallinazos，tameaspoultry，pickupbitsofcarrion。Thehouseshavegenerallyanupperstory，builtonaccountoftheearthquakes，ofplasteredwoodworkbutsomeoftheoldones，whicharenowusedbyseveralfamilies，areimmenselylarge，andwouldrivalinsuitesofapartmentsthemostmagnificentinanyplace。Lima，theCityoftheKings，mustformerlyhavebeenasplendidtown。Theextraordinarynumberofchurchesgivesit，evenatthepresentday，apeculiarandstrikingcharacter，especiallywhenviewedfromashortdistance。
　　OnedayIwentoutwithsomemerchantstohuntintheimmediatevicinityofthecity。Oursportwasverypoor；butIhadanopportunityofseeingtheruinsofoneoftheancientIndianvillages，withitsmoundlikeanaturalhillinthecentre。Theremainsofhouses，enclosures，irrigatingstreams，andburialmounds，scatteredoverthisplain，cannotfailtogiveoneahighideaoftheconditionandnumberoftheancientpopulation。
　　Whentheirearthenware，woollenclothes，utensilsofelegantformscutoutofthehardestrocks，toolsofcopper，ornamentsofpreciousstones，palaces，andhydraulicworks，areconsidered，itisimpossiblenottorespecttheconsiderableadvancemadebythemintheartsofcivilization。Theburialmounds，calledHuacas，arereallystupendous；althoughinsomeplacestheyappeartobenaturalhillsincasedandmodelled。
　　Thereisalsoanotherandverydifferentclassofruins，whichpossessessomeinterest，namely，thoseofoldCallao，overwhelmedbythegreatearthquakeof1746，anditsaccompanyingwave。ThedestructionmusthavebeenmorecompleteeventhanatTalcahuano。Quantitiesofshinglealmostconcealthefoundationsofthewalls，andvastmassesofbrickworkappeartohavebeenwhirledaboutlikepebblesbytheretiringwaves。Ithasbeenstatedthatthelandsubsidedduringthismemorableshock：Icouldnotdiscoveranyproofofthis；yetitseemsfarfromimprobable，fortheformofthecoastmustcertainlyhaveundergonesomechangesincethefoundationoftheoldtown；asnopeopleintheirsenseswouldwillinglyhavechosenfortheirbuildingplace，thenarrowspitofshingleonwhichtheruinsnowstand。Sinceourvoyage，M。Tschudihascometotheconclusion，bythecomparisonofoldandmodernmaps，thatthecoastbothnorthandsouthofLimahascertainlysubsided。
　　OntheislandofSanLorenzo，thereareverysatisfactoryproofsofelevationwithintherecentperiod；thisofcourseisnotopposedtothebelief，ofasmallsinkingofthegroundhavingsubsequentlytakenplace。
　　ThesideofthisislandfrontingtheBayofCallao，iswornintothreeobscureterraces，theloweroneofwhichiscoveredbyabedamileinlength，almostwhollycomposedofshellsofeighteenspecies，nowlivingintheadjoiningsea。Theheightofthisbediseighty-fivefeet。Manyoftheshellsaredeeplycorroded，andhaveamucholderandmoredecayedappearancethanthoseattheheightof500or600feetonthecoastofChile。Theseshellsareassociatedwithmuchcommonsalt，alittlesulphateoflimebothprobablyleftbytheevaporationofthespray，asthelandslowlyrose，togetherwithsulphateofsodaandmuriateoflime。Theyrestonfragmentsoftheunderlyingsandstone，andarecoveredbyafewinchesthickofdetritus。Theshells，higheruponthisterracecouldbetracedscalingoffinflakes，andfallingintoanimpalpablepowder；andonanupperterrace，attheheightof170feet，andlikewiseatsomeconsiderablyhigherpoints，Ifoundalayerofsalinepowderofexactlysimilarappearance，andlyinginthesamerelativeposition。Ihavenodoubtthatthisupperlayeroriginallyexistedasabedofshells，likethatontheeighty-five-feetledge；butitdoesnotnowcontainevenatraceoforganicstructure。ThepowderhasbeenanalyzedformebyMr。T。Reeks；itconsistsofsulphatesandmuriatesbothoflimeandsoda，withverylittlecarbonateoflime。
　　Itisknownthatcommonsaltandcarbonateoflimeleftinamassforsometimetogether，partlydecomposeeachother；thoughthisdoesnothappenwithsmallquantitiesinsolution。Asthehalf-decomposedshellsinthelowerpartsareassociatedwithmuchcommonsalt，togetherwithsomeofthesalinesubstancescomposingtheuppersalinelayer，andastheseshellsarecorrodedanddecayedinaremarkablemanner，Istronglysuspectthatthisdoubledecompositionhasheretakenplace。Theresultantsalts，however，oughttobecarbonateofsodaandmuriateoflime，thelatterispresent，butnotthecarbonateofsoda。HenceIamledtoimaginethatbysomeunexplainedmeans，thecarbonateofsodabecomeschangedintothesulphate。Itisobviousthatthesalinelayercouldnothavebeenpreservedinanycountryinwhichabundantrainoccasionallyfell：ontheotherhand，thisverycircumstance，whichatfirstsightappearssohighlyfavourabletothelongpreservationofexposedshells，hasprobablybeentheindirectmeans，throughthecommonsaltnothavingbeenwashedaway，oftheirdecompositionandearlydecay。
　　Iwasmuchinterestedbyfindingontheterrace，attheheightofeighty-fivefeet，_embedded_amidsttheshellsandmuchsea-driftedrubbish，somebitsofcottonthread，plaitedrush，andtheheadofastalkofIndiancorn：
　　IcomparedtheserelicswithsimilaronestakenoutoftheHuacas，oroldPeruviantombs，andfoundthemidenticalinappearance。OnthemainlandinfrontofSanLorenzo，nearBellavista，thereisanextensiveandlevelplainaboutahundredfeethigh，ofwhichthelowerpartisformedofalternatinglayersofsandandimpureclay，togetherwithsomegravel，andthesurface，tothedepthoffromthreetosixfeet，ofareddishloam，containingafewscatteredsea-shellsandnumeroussmallfragmentsofcoarseredearthenware，moreabundantatcertainspotsthanatothers。AtfirstIwasinclinedtobelievethatthissuperficialbed，fromitswideextentandsmoothness，musthavebeendepositedbeneaththesea；butIafterwardsfoundinonespot，thatitlayonanartificialfloorofroundstones。Itseems，therefore，mostprobablethatataperiodwhenthelandstoodatalowerleveltherewasaplainverysimilartothatnowsurroundingCallao，whichbeingprotectedbyashinglebeach，israisedbutverylittleabovethelevelofthesea。
　　Onthisplain，withitsunderlyingred-claybeds，IimaginethattheIndiansmanufacturedtheirearthenvessels；andthat，duringsomeviolentearthquake，theseabrokeoverthebeach，andconvertedtheplainintoatemporarylake，ashappenedroundCallaoin1713and1746。Thewaterwouldthenhavedepositedmud，containingfragmentsofpotteryfromthekilns，moreabundantatsomespotsthanatothers，andshellsfromthesea。Thisbed，withfossilearthenware，standsataboutthesameheightwiththeshellsonthelowerterraceofSanLorenzo，inwhichthecotton-threadandotherrelicswereembedded。
　　Hencewemaysafelyconclude，thatwithintheIndo-humanperiodtherehasbeenanelevation，asbeforealludedto，ofmorethaneighty-fivefeet；
　　forsomelittleelevationmusthavebeenlostbythecoasthavingsubsidedsincetheoldmapswereengraved。AtValparaiso，althoughinthe220yearsbeforeourvisit，theelevationcannothaveexceedednineteenfeet，yetsubsequentlyto1817，therehasbeenarise，partlyinsensibleandpartlybyastartduringtheshockof1822，oftenorelevenfeet。TheantiquityoftheIndo-humanracehere，judgingbytheeighty-fivefeetriseofthelandsincetherelicswereembedded，isthemoreremarkable，asonthecoastofPatagonia，whenthelandstoodaboutthesamenumberoffeetlower，theMacraucheniawasalivingbeast；butasthePatagoniancoastissomewaydistantfromtheCordillera，therisingtheremayhavebeenslowerthanhere。AtBahiaBlanca，theelevationhasbeenonlyafewfeetsincethenumerousgiganticquadrupedswerethereentombed；and，accordingtothegenerallyreceivedopinion，whentheseextinctanimalswereliving，mandidnotexist。ButtherisingofthatpartofthecoastofPatagonia，isperhapsnowayconnectedwiththeCordillera，butratherwithalineofoldvolcanicrocksinBandaOriental，sothatitmayhavebeeninfinitelyslowerthanontheshoresofPeru。Allthesespeculations，however，mustbevague；forwhowillpretendtosaythattheremaynothavebeenseveralperiodsofsubsidence，intercalatedbetweenthemovementsofelevation；
　　forweknowthatalongthewholecoastofPatagonia，therehavecertainlybeenmanyandlongpausesintheupwardactionoftheelevatoryforces。[1]Vol。iv。p。11，andvol。ii。p。217。FortheremarksonGuayaquil，seeSilliman’sJourn。，vol。xxiv。p。384。ForthoseonTacnabyMr。Hamilton，seeTrans。ofBritishAssociation，1840。ForthoseonCoseguinaseeMr。CaldcleughinPhil。Trans。，1835。IntheformereditionIcollectedseveralreferencesonthecoincidencesbetweensuddenfallsinthebarometerandearthquakes；andbetweenearthquakesandmeteors。