Inpointofmorality,thevirtueofthewomen,ithasbeenoftensaid,ismostopentoexception。Butbeforetheyareblamedtooseverely,itwillbewelldistinctlytocalltomindthescenesdescribedbyCaptainCookandMr。Banks,inwhichthegrandmothersandmothersofthepresentraceplayedapart。Thosewhoaremostsevere,shouldconsiderhowmuchofthemoralityofthewomeninEuropeisowingtothesystemearlyimpressedbymothersontheirdaughters,andhowmuchineachindividualcasetothepreceptsofreligion。Butitisuselesstoargueagainstsuchreasoners;——
Ibelievethat,disappointedinnotfindingthefieldoflicentiousnessquitesoopenasformerly,theywillnotgivecredittoamoralitywhichtheydonotwishtopractise,ortoareligionwhichtheyundervalue,ifnotdespise。
Sunday,22nd——TheharbourofPapiete,wherethequeenresides,maybeconsideredasthecapitaloftheisland:itisalsotheseatofgovernment,andthechiefresortofshipping。CaptainFitzRoytookapartytherethisdaytoheardivineservice,firstintheTahitianlanguage,andafterwardsinourown。Mr。Pritchard,theleadingmissionaryintheisland,performedtheservice。Thechapelconsistedofalargeairyframeworkofwood;anditwasfilledtoexcessbytidy,cleanpeople,ofallagesandbothsexes。
Iwasratherdisappointedintheapparentdegreeofattention;butIbelievemyexpectationswereraisedtoohigh。AtalleventstheappearancewasquiteequaltothatinacountrychurchinEngland。Thesingingofthehymnswasdecidedlyverypleasing,butthelanguagefromthepulpit,althoughfluentlydelivered,didnotsoundwell:aconstantrepetitionofwords,like“tatata,matamai。”rendereditmonotonous。AfterEnglishservice,apartyreturnedonfoottoMatavai。Itwasapleasantwalk,sometimesalongthesea-beachandsometimesundertheshadeofthemanybeautifultrees。
Abouttwoyearsago,asmallvesselunderEnglishcolourswasplunderedbysomeoftheinhabitantsoftheLowIslands,whichwerethenunderthedominionoftheQueenofTahiti。Itwasbelievedthattheperpetratorswereinstigatedtothisactbysomeindiscreetlawsissuedbyhermajesty。
TheBritishgovernmentdemandedcompensation;whichwasaccededto,andthesumofnearlythreethousanddollarswasagreedtobepaidonthefirstoflastSeptember。TheCommodoreatLimaorderedCaptainFitzRoytoinquireconcerningthisdebt,andtodemandsatisfactionifitwerenotpaid。CaptainFitzRoyaccordinglyrequestedaninterviewwiththeQueenPomarre,sincefamousfromtheill-treatmentshehadreceivedfromtheFrench;andaparliamentwasheldtoconsiderthequestion,atwhichalltheprincipalchiefsoftheislandandthequeenwereassembled。Iwillnotattempttodescribewhattookplace,aftertheinterestingaccountgivenbyCaptainFitzRoy。
Themoney,itappeared,hadnotbeenpaid;perhapstheallegedreasonswereratherequivocal;butotherwiseIcannotsufficientlyexpressourgeneralsurpriseattheextremegoodsense,thereasoningpowers,moderation,candour,andpromptresolution,whichweredisplayedonallsides。IbelieveweallleftthemeetingwithaverydifferentopinionoftheTahitians,fromwhatweentertainedwhenweentered。Thechiefsandpeopleresolvedtosubscribeandcompletethesumwhichwaswanting;CaptainFitzRoyurgedthatitwashardthattheirprivatepropertyshouldbesacrificedforthecrimesofdistantislanders。Theyreplied,thattheyweregratefulforhisconsideration,butthatPomarrewastheirQueen,andthattheyweredeterminedtohelpherinthisherdifficulty。Thisresolutionanditspromptexecution,forabookwasopenedearlythenextmorning,madeaperfectconclusiontothisveryremarkablesceneofloyaltyandgoodfeeling。
Afterthemaindiscussionwasended,severalofthechiefstooktheopportunityofaskingCaptainFitzRoymanyintelligentquestionsoninternationalcustomsandlaws,relatingtothetreatmentofshipsandforeigners。Onsomepoints,assoonasthedecisionwasmade,thelawwasissuedverballyonthespot。ThisTahitianparliamentlastedforseveralhours;andwhenitwasoverCaptainFitzRoyinvitedQueenPomarretopaytheBeagleavisit。
November25th——Intheeveningfourboatsweresentforhermajesty;
theshipwasdressedwithflags,andtheyardsmannedonhercomingonboard。Shewasaccompaniedbymostofthechiefs。Thebehaviourofallwasveryproper:theybeggedfornothing,andseemedmuchpleasedwithCaptainFitzRoy’spresents。Thequeenisalargeawkwardwoman,withoutanybeauty,graceordignity。Shehasonlyoneroyalattribute:aperfectimmovabilityofexpressionunderallcircumstances,andthatratherasullenone。Therocketsweremostadmired,andadeep“Oh!”couldbeheardfromtheshore,allroundthedarkbay,aftereachexplosion。Thesailors’songswerealsomuchadmired;andthequeensaidshethoughtthatoneofthemostboisterousonescertainlycouldnotbeahymn!Theroyalpartydidnotreturnonshoretillpastmidnight。
26th——Intheevening,withagentleland-breeze,acoursewassteeredforNewZealand;andasthesunset,wehadafarewellviewofthemountainsofTahiti——theislandtowhicheveryvoyagerhasoffereduphistributeofadmiration。
December19th——IntheeveningwesawinthedistanceNewZealand。
WemaynowconsiderthatwehavenearlycrossedthePacific。Itisnecessarytosailoverthisgreatoceantocomprehenditsimmensity。Movingquicklyonwardsforweekstogether,wemeetwithnothingbutthesameblue,profoundlydeep,ocean。Evenwithinthearchipelagoes,theislandsaremerespecks,andfardistantonefromtheother。Accustomedtolookatmapsdrawnonasmallscale,wheredots,shading,andnamesarecrowdedtogether,wedonotrightlyjudgehowinfinitelysmalltheproportionofdrylandistowaterofthisvastexpanse。ThemeridianoftheAntipodeshaslikewisebeenpassed;andnoweveryleague,itmadeushappytothink,wasoneleaguenearertoEngland。TheseAntipodescalltoone’smindoldrecollectionsofchildishdoubtandwonder。OnlytheotherdayIlookedforwardtothisairybarrierasadefinitepointinourvoyagehomewards;butnowIfindit,andallsuchresting-placesfortheimagination,arelikeshadows,whichamanmovingonwardscannotcatch。Agaleofwindlastingforsomedays,haslatelygivenusfullleisuretomeasurethefuturestagesinourhomewardvoyage,andtowishmostearnestlyforitstermination。
December21st——EarlyinthemorningweenteredtheBayofIslands,andbeingbecalmedforsomehoursnearthemouth,wedidnotreachtheanchoragetillthemiddleoftheday。Thecountryishilly,withasmoothoutline,andisdeeplyintersectedbynumerousarmsoftheseaextendingfromthebay。Thesurfaceappearsfromadistanceasifclothedwithcoarsepasture,butthisintruthisnothingbutfern。Onthemoredistanthills,aswellasinpartsofthevalleys,thereisagooddealofwoodland。Thegeneraltintofthelandscapeisnotabrightgreen;anditresemblesthecountryashortdistancetothesouthofConcepcioninChile。Inseveralpartsofthebay,littlevillagesofsquaretidylookinghousesarescatteredclosedowntothewater’sedge。Threewhaling-shipswerelyingatanchor,andacanoeeverynowandthencrossedfromshoretoshore;withtheseexceptions,anairofextremequietnessreignedoverthewholedistrict。
Onlyasinglecanoecamealongside。This,andtheaspectofthewholescene,affordedaremarkable,andnotverypleasingcontrast,withourjoyfulandboisterouswelcomeatTahiti。
Intheafternoonwewentonshoretooneofthelargergroupsofhouses,whichyethardlydeservesthetitleofavillage。ItsnameisPahia:itistheresidenceofthemissionaries;andtherearenonativeresidentsexceptservantsandlabourers。InthevicinityoftheBayofIslands,thenumberofEnglishmen,includingtheirfamilies,amountstobetweentwoandthreehundred。Allthecottages,manyofwhicharewhite-washedandlookveryneat,arethepropertyoftheEnglish。Thehovelsofthenativesaresodiminutiveandpaltry,thattheycanscarcelybeperceivedfromadistance。AtPahia,itwasquitepleasingtobeholdtheEnglishflowersinthegardensbeforethehouses;therewererosesofseveralkinds,honeysuckle,jasmine,stocks,andwholehedgesofsweetbrier。
December22nd——InthemorningIwentoutwalking;butIsoonfoundthatthecountrywasveryimpracticable。Allthehillsarethicklycoveredwithtallfern,togetherwithalowbushwhichgrowslikeacypress;andverylittlegroundhasbeenclearedorcultivated。Ithentriedthesea-beach;
butproceedingtowardseitherhand,mywalkwassoonstoppedbysalt-watercreeksanddeepbrooks。Thecommunicationbetweentheinhabitantsofthedifferentpartsofthebay,isasinChiloealmostentirelykeptupbyboats。IwassurprisedtofindthatalmosteveryhillwhichIascended,hadbeenatsomeformertimemoreorlessfortified。Thesummitswerecutintostepsorsuccessiveterraces,andfrequentlytheyhadbeenprotectedbydeeptrenches。Iafterwardsobservedthattheprincipalhillsinlandinlikemannershowedanartificialoutline。ThesearethePas,sofrequentlymentionedbyCaptainCookunderthenameof“hippah;“thedifferenceofsoundbeingowingtotheprefixedarticle。
ThatthePashadformerlybeenmuchused,wasevidentfromthepilesofshells,andthepitsinwhich,asIwasinformed,sweetpotatoesusedtobekeptasareserve。Astherewasnowateronthesehills,thedefenderscouldneverhaveanticipatedalongsiege,butonlyahurriedattackforplunder,againstwhichthesuccessiveterraceswouldhaveaffordedgoodprotection。Thegeneralintroductionoffirearmshaschangedthewholesystemofwarfare;andanexposedsituationonthetopofahillisnowworsethanuseless。ThePasinconsequenceare,atthepresentday,alwaysbuiltonalevelpieceofground。Theyconsistofadoublestockadeofthickandtallposts,placedinazigzagline,sothateverypartcanbeflanked。Withinthestockadeamoundofearthisthrownup,behindwhichthedefenderscanrestinsafety,orusetheirfire-armsoverit。Onthelevelofthegroundlittlearchwayssometimespassthroughthisbreastwork,bywhichmeansthedefenderscancrawlouttothestockadeandreconnoitretheirenemies。TheRev。W。Williams,whogavemethisaccount,added,thatinonePashehadnoticedspursorbuttressesprojectingontheinnerandprotectedsideofthemoundofearth。Onaskingthechieftheuseofthem,hereplied,thatiftwoorthreeofhismenwereshot,theirneighbourswouldnotseethebodies,andsobediscouraged。
ThesePasareconsideredbytheNewZealandersasveryperfectmeansofdefence:fortheattackingforceisneversowelldisciplinedastorushinabodytothestockade,cutitdown,andeffecttheirentry。Whenatribegoestowar,thechiefcannotorderonepartytogohereandanotherthere;buteverymanfightsinthemannerwhichbestpleaseshimself;andtoeachseparateindividualtoapproachastockadedefendedbyfire-armsmustappearcertaindeath。IshouldthinkamorewarlikeraceofinhabitantscouldnotbefoundinanypartoftheworldthantheNewZealanders。Theirconductonfirstseeingaship,asdescribedbyCaptainCook,stronglyillustratesthis:theactofthrowingvolleysofstonesatsogreatandnovelanobject,andtheirdefianceof“Comeonshoreandwewillkillandeatyouall。”showsuncommonboldness。Thiswarlikespiritisevidentinmanyoftheircustoms,andevenintheirsmallestactions。IfaNewZealanderisstruck,althoughbutinjoke,theblowmustbereturnedandofthisIsawaninstancewithoneofourofficers。
Atthepresentday,fromtheprogressofcivilization,thereismuchlesswarfare,exceptamongsomeofthesoutherntribes。Iheardacharacteristicanecdoteofwhattookplacesometimeagointhesouth。Amissionaryfoundachiefandhistribeinpreparationforwar;——theirmusketscleanandbright,andtheirammunitionready。Hereasonedlongontheinutilityofthewar,andthelittleprovocationwhichhadbeengivenforit。Thechiefwasmuchshakeninhisresolution,andseemedindoubt:butatlengthitoccurredtohimthatabarrelofhisgunpowderwasinabadstate,andthatitwouldnotkeepmuchlonger。Thiswasbroughtforwardasanunanswerableargumentforthenecessityofimmediatelydeclaringwar:theideaofallowingsomuchgoodgunpowdertospoilwasnottobethoughtof;andthissettledthepoint。IwastoldbythemissionariesthatinthelifeofShongi,thechiefwhovisitedEngland,theloveofwarwastheoneandlastingspringofeveryaction。ThetribeinwhichhewasaprincipalchiefhadatonetimebeenoppressedbyanothertribefromtheThamesRiver。Asolemnoathwastakenbythementhatwhentheirboysshouldgrowup,andtheyshouldbepowerfulenough,theywouldneverforgetorforgivetheseinjuries。