Havingthreadedthemazesofthischannelforsomehours,thegloomdeepeningeverymoment,asharpandunexpectedturnofthevesselbroughtitsuddenly,asifdroppedfromheaven,intoacircularbasinofveryconsiderableextentwhencomparedwiththewidthofthegorge。Itwasabouttwohundredyardsindiameter,andgirtinatallpointsbutonethatimmediatelyfrontingthevesselasitenteredbyhillsequalingeneralheighttothewallsofthechasm,althoughofathoroughlydifferentcharacter。Theirsidesslopedfromthewater’sedgeatanangleofsomeforty-fivedegrees,andtheywereclothedfrombasetosummitnotaperceptiblepointescapinginadraperyofthemostgorgeousflower-blossoms;scarcelyagreenleafbeingvisibleamongtheseaofodorousandfluctuatingcolor。Thisbasinwasofgreatdepth,butsotransparentwasthewaterthatthebottom,whichseemedtoconsistofathickmassofsmallroundalabasterpebbles,wasdistinctlyvisiblebyglimpses
thatistosay,whenevertheeyecouldpermititselfnottosee,fardownintheinvertedheaven,theduplicatebloomingofthehills。Ontheselattertherewerenotrees,norevenshrubsofanysize。Theimpressionswroughtontheobserverwerethoseofrichness,warmth,color,quietude,uniformity,softness,delicacy,daintiness,voluptuousness,andamiraculousextremenessofculturethatsuggesteddreamsofanewraceoffairies,laborious,tasteful,magnificent,andfastidious;butastheeyetracedupwardthemyriad-tintedslope,fromitssharpjunctionwiththewatertoitsvagueterminationamidthefoldsofoverhangingcloud,itbecame,indeed,difficultnottofancyapanoramiccataractofrubies,sapphires,opals,andgoldenonyxes,rollingsilentlyoutofthesky。
Thevisiter,shootingsuddenlyintothisbayfromoutthegloomoftheravine,isdelightedbutastoundedbythefullorbofthedecliningsun,whichhehadsupposedtobealreadyfarbelowthehorizon,butwhichnowconfrontshim,andformsthesoleterminationofanotherwiselimitlessvistaseenthroughanotherchasmlikeriftinthehills。
Butherethevoyagerquitsthevesselwhichhasbornehimsofar,anddescendsintoalightcanoeofivory,stainedwitharabesquedevicesinvividscarlet,bothwithinandwithout。Thepoopandbeakofthisboatarisehighabovethewater,withsharppoints,sothatthegeneralformisthatofanirregularcrescent。Itliesonthesurfaceofthebaywiththeproudgraceofaswan。Onitserminedfloorreposesasinglefeatherypaddleofsatin-wood;butnooarsmenorattendantistobeseen。Theguestisbiddentobeofgoodcheer
thatthefateswilltakecareofhim。Thelargervesseldisappears,andheisleftaloneinthecanoe,whichliesapparentlymotionlessinthemiddleofthelake。Whileheconsiderswhatcoursetopursue,however,hebecomesawareofagentlemovementinthefairybark。Itslowlyswingsitselfarounduntilitsprowpointstowardthesun。Itadvanceswithagentlebutgraduallyacceleratedvelocity,whiletheslightripplesitcreatesseemtobreakabouttheivorysideindivinestmelody-seemtooffertheonlypossibleexplanationofthesoothingyetmelancholymusicforwhoseunseenoriginthebewilderedvoyagerlooksaroundhiminvain。
Thecanoesteadilyproceeds,andtherockygateofthevistaisapproached,sothatitsdepthscanbemoredistinctlyseen。Totherightariseachainofloftyhillsrudelyandluxuriantlywooded。Itisobserved,however,thatthetraitofexquisitecleannesswherethebankdipsintothewater,stillprevails。Thereisnotonetokenoftheusualriverdebris。Totheleftthecharacterofthesceneissofterandmoreobviouslyartificial。Herethebankslopesupwardfromthestreaminaverygentleascent,formingabroadswardofgrassofatextureresemblingnothingsomuchasvelvet,andofabrilliancyofgreenwhichwouldbearcomparisonwiththetintofthepurestemerald。Thisplateauvariesinwidthfromtentothreehundredyards;reachingfromtheriver-banktoawall,fiftyfeethigh,whichextends,inaninfinityofcurves,butfollowingthegeneraldirectionoftheriver,untillostinthedistancetothewestward。Thiswallisofonecontinuousrock,andhasbeenformedbycuttingperpendicularlytheonceruggedprecipiceofthestream’ssouthernbank,butnotraceofthelaborhasbeensufferedtoremain。
Thechiselledstonehasthehueofages,andisprofuselyoverhungandoverspreadwiththeivy,thecoralhoneysuckle,theeglantine,andtheclematis。Theuniformityofthetopandbottomlinesofthewallisfullyrelievedbyoccasionaltreesofgiganticheight,growingsinglyorinsmallgroups,bothalongtheplateauandinthedomainbehindthewall,butincloseproximitytoit;sothatfrequentlimbsoftheblackwalnutespeciallyreachoveranddiptheirpendentextremitiesintothewater。Fartherbackwithinthedomain,thevisionisimpededbyanimpenetrablescreenoffoliage。
Thesethingsareobservedduringthecanoe’sgradualapproachtowhatIhavecalledthegateofthevista。Ondrawingnearertothis,however,itschasm-likeappearancevanishes;anewoutletfromthebayisdiscoveredtotheleftinwhichdirectionthewallisalsoseentosweep,stillfollowingthegeneralcourseofthestream。Downthisnewopeningtheeyecannotpenetrateveryfar;forthestream,accompaniedbythewall,stillbendstotheleft,untilbothareswallowedupbytheleaves。
Theboat,nevertheless,glidesmagicallyintothewindingchannel;
andheretheshoreoppositethewallisfoundtoresemblethatoppositethewallinthestraightvista。Loftyhills,risingoccasionallyintomountains,andcoveredwithvegetationinwildluxuriance,stillshutinthescene。
Floatinggentlyonward,butwithavelocityslightlyaugmented,thevoyager,aftermanyshortturns,findshisprogressapparentlybarredbyagiganticgateorratherdoorofburnishedgold,elaboratelycarvedandfretted,andreflectingthedirectraysofthenowfast-sinkingsunwithaneffulgencethatseemstowreaththewholesurroundingforestinflames。Thisgateisinsertedintheloftywall;whichhereappearstocrosstheriveratrightangles。Inafewmoments,however,itisseenthatthemainbodyofthewaterstillsweepsinagentleandextensivecurvetotheleft,thewallfollowingitasbefore,whileastreamofconsiderablevolume,divergingfromtheprincipalone,makesitsway,withaslightripple,underthedoor,andisthushiddenfromsight。Thecanoefallsintothelesserchannelandapproachesthegate。Itsponderouswingsareslowlyandmusicallyexpanded。Theboatglidesbetweenthem,andcommencesarapiddescentintoavastamphitheatreentirelybegirtwithpurplemountains,whosebasesarelavedbyagleamingriverthroughoutthefullextentoftheircircuit。MeantimethewholeParadiseofArnheimburstsupontheview。Thereisagushofentrancingmelody;thereisanoppressivesenseofstrangesweetodor,thereisadreamlikeinterminglingtotheeyeoftallslenderEasterntreesboskyshrubberiesflocksofgoldenandcrimsonbirdslily-fringedlakesmeadowsofviolets,tulips,poppies,hyacinths,andtuberoseslongintertangledlinesofsilverstreamletsand,upspringingconfusedlyfromamidall,amassofsemi-Gothic,semi-Saracenicarchitecturesustainingitselfbymiracleinmid-air,glitteringintheredsunlightwithahundredoriels,minarets,andpinnacles;andseemingthephantomhandiwork,conjointly,oftheSylphs,oftheFairies,oftheGeniiandoftheGnomes。
APendantto“TheDomainofArnheim“
DURINGApedestriantriplastsummer,throughoneortwooftherivercountiesofNewYork,Ifoundmyself,asthedaydeclined,somewhatembarrassedabouttheroadIwaspursuing。Thelandundulatedveryremarkably;andmypath,forthelasthour,hadwoundaboutandaboutsoconfusedly,initsefforttokeepinthevalleys,thatInolongerknewinwhatdirectionlaythesweetvillageofB-,whereIhaddeterminedtostopforthenight。Thesunhadscarcelyshone
strictlyspeakingduringtheday,whichnevertheless,hadbeenunpleasantlywarm。Asmokymist,resemblingthatoftheIndiansummer,envelopedallthings,andofcourse,addedtomyuncertainty。
NotthatIcaredmuchaboutthematter。IfIdidnothituponthevillagebeforesunset,orevenbeforedark,itwasmorethanpossiblethatalittleDutchfarmhouse,orsomethingofthatkind,wouldsoonmakeitsappearancealthough,infact,theneighborhoodperhapsonaccountofbeingmorepicturesquethanfertilewasverysparselyinhabited。Atallevents,withmyknapsackforapillow,andmyhoundasasentry,abivouacintheopenairwasjustthethingwhichwouldhaveamusedme。Isaunteredon,therefore,quiteateasePontotakingchargeofmygununtilatlength,justasIhadbeguntoconsiderwhetherthenumerouslittlegladesthatledhitherandthither,wereintendedtobepathsatall,Iwasconductedbyoneofthemintoanunquestionablecarriagetrack。Therecouldbenomistakingit。Thetracesoflightwheelswereevident;andalthoughthetallshrubberiesandovergrownundergrowthmetoverhead,therewasnoobstructionwhateverbelow,eventothepassageofaVirginianmountainwagonthemostaspiringvehicle,Itakeit,ofitskind。
Theroad,however,exceptinbeingopenthroughthewoodifwoodbenottooweightyanameforsuchanassemblageoflighttrees
andexceptintheparticularsofevidentwheel-tracksborenoresemblancetoanyroadIhadbeforeseen。ThetracksofwhichI
speakwerebutfaintlyperceptiblehavingbeenimpresseduponthefirm,yetpleasantlymoistsurfaceofwhatlookedmorelikegreenGenoesevelvetthananythingelse。Itwasgrass,clearlybutgrasssuchasweseldomseeoutofEnglandsoshort,sothick,soeven,andsovividincolor。Notasingleimpedimentlayinthewheel-routenotevenachipordeadtwig。Thestonesthatonceobstructedthewayhadbeencarefullyplacednotthrown-alongthesidesofthelane,soastodefineitsboundariesatbottomwithakindofhalf-precise,half-negligent,andwhollypicturesquedefinition。Clumpsofwildflowersgreweverywhere,luxuriantly,intheinterspaces。
Whattomakeofallthis,ofcourseIknewnot。Herewasartundoubtedlythatdidnotsurprisemeallroads,intheordinarysense,areworksofart;norcanIsaythattherewasmuchtowonderatinthemereexcessofartmanifested;allthatseemedtohavebeendone,mighthavebeendoneherewithsuchnatural“capabilities“
astheyhaveitinthebooksonLandscapeGardeningwithverylittlelaborandexpense。No;itwasnottheamountbutthecharacteroftheartwhichcausedmetotakeaseatononeoftheblossomystonesandgazeupanddownthisfairylikeavenueforhalfanhourormoreinbewilderedadmiration。OnethingbecamemoreandmoreevidentthelongerIgazed:anartist,andonewithamostscrupulouseyeforform,hadsuperintendedallthesearrangements。Thegreatestcarehadbeentakentopreserveaduemediumbetweentheneatandgracefulontheonehand,andthepittoresque,inthetruesenseoftheItalianterm,ontheother。Therewerefewstraight,andnolonguninterruptedlines。Thesameeffectofcurvatureorofcolorappearedtwice,usually,butnotoftener,atanyonepointofview。
Everywherewasvarietyinuniformity。Itwasapieceof“composition。”inwhichthemostfastidiouslycriticaltastecouldscarcelyhavesuggestedanemendation。
IhadturnedtotherightasIenteredthisroad,andnow,arising,I
continuedinthesamedirection。Thepathwassoserpentine,thatatnomomentcouldItraceitscourseformorethantwoorthreepacesinadvance。Itscharacterdidnotundergoanymaterialchange。
Presentlythemurmurofwaterfellgentlyuponmyearandinafewmomentsafterward,asIturnedwiththeroadsomewhatmoreabruptlythanhitherto,Ibecameawarethatabuildingofsomekindlayatthefootofagentledeclivityjustbeforeme。Icouldseenothingdistinctlyonaccountofthemistwhichoccupiedallthelittlevalleybelow。Agentlebreeze,however,nowarose,asthesunwasaboutdescending;andwhileIremainedstandingonthebrowoftheslope,thefoggraduallybecamedissipatedintowreaths,andsofloatedoverthescene。
AsitcamefullyintoviewthusgraduallyasIdescribeit
piecebypiece,hereatree,thereaglimpseofwater,andhereagainthesummitofachimney,Icouldscarcelyhelpfancyingthatthewholewasoneoftheingeniousillusionssometimesexhibitedunderthenameof“vanishingpictures。”
Bythetime,however,thatthefoghadthoroughlydisappeared,thesunhadmadeitswaydownbehindthegentlehills,andthence,asitwithaslightchasseztothesouth,hadcomeagainfullyintosight,glaringwithapurplishlustrethroughachasmthatenteredthevalleyfromthewest。Suddenly,thereforeandasifbythehandofmagicthiswholevalleyandeverythinginitbecamebrilliantlyvisible。
Thefirstcoupd’oeil,asthesunslidintothepositiondescribed,impressedmeverymuchasIhavebeenimpressed,whenaboy,bytheconcludingsceneofsomewell-arrangedtheatricalspectacleormelodrama。Noteventhemonstrosityofcolorwaswanting;forthesunlightcameoutthroughthechasm,tintedallorangeandpurple;