ThecauseofthedecadenceofthePortuguesepowerinthisregionissimplythis:Informertimes,considerablequantitiesofgrain,aswheat,millet,andmaize,wereexported;alsocoffee,sugar,oil,andindigo,besidesgold-dustandivoryThecultivationofgrainwascarriedonbymeansofslaves,ofwhomthePortuguesepossessedalargenumberThegold-dustwasprocuredbywashingatvariouspointsonthenorth,south,andwestofTeteAmerchanttookallhisslaveswithhimtothewashings,carryingasmuchcalicoandothergoodsashecouldmusterOnarrivingatthewashing-place,hemadeapresenttothechiefofthevalueofaboutapoundsterling。
Theslaveswerethendividedintoparties,eachheadedbyaconfidentialservant,whonotonlyhadthesupervisionofhissquadwhilethewashingwenton,butboughtdustfromtheinhabitants,andmadeaweeklyreturntohismasterWhenseveralmastersunitedatonespot,itwascalleda“Bara“,andtheythenerectedatemporarychurch,inwhichapriestfromoneofthemissionsperformedmass。
Bothchiefsandpeoplewerefavorabletothesevisits,becausethetraderspurchasedgrainforthesustenanceoftheslaveswiththegoodstheyhadbroughtTheycontinuedatthislaboruntilthewholeofthegoodswereexpended,andbythismeansabout130lbsofgoldwereannuallyproducedProbablymorethanthiswasactuallyobtained,but,asitwasanarticleeasilysecreted,thisalonewassubmittedtotheauthoritiesfortaxation。
AtpresentthewholeamountofgoldobtainedannuallybythePortugueseisfrom8to10lbsonlyWhentheslave-tradebegan,itseemedtomanyofthemerchantsamorespeedymodeofbecomingrichtosellofftheslavesthantopursuetheslowmodeofgold-washingandagriculture,andtheycontinuedtoexportthemuntiltheyhadneitherhandstolabornortofightforthemItwasjustthestoryofthegooseandthegoldenegg。
Thecoffeeandsugarplantationsandgold-washingswereabandoned,becausethelaborhadbeenexportedtotheBrazilsManyofthePortuguesethenfollowedtheirslaves,andthegovernmentwasobligedtopassalawtopreventfurtheremigration,which,haditgoneon,wouldhavedepopulatedthePortuguesepossessionsaltogether。
AclevermanofAsiaticGoaandPortugueseextraction,calledNyaude,nowbuiltastockadeattheconfluenceoftheLuenyaandZambesi;
andwhenthecommandantofTetesentanofficerwithhiscompanytosummonhimtohispresence,Nyaudeaskedpermissionoftheofficertodresshimself,whichbeinggranted,hewentintoaninnerapartment,andtheofficerorderedhismentopiletheirarmsAdrumofwarbegantobeatanotewhichiswellknowntotheinhabitants。
Someofthesoldierstookthealarmonhearingthisnote,buttheofficer,disregardingtheirwarning,was,withhiswholeparty,inafewminutesdisarmedandboundhandandfootThecommandantofTetethenarmedthewholebodyofslavesandmarchedagainstthestockadeofNyaude,butwhentheycameneartoittherewastheLuenyastilltocross。
Astheydidnoteffectthisspeedily,NyaudedispatchedastrongpartyunderhissonBongaacrosstheriverbelowthestockade,anduptheleftbankoftheZambesiuntiltheycameneartoTete。
TheythenattackedTete,whichwaswhollyundefendedsavebyafewsoldiersinthefort,plunderedandburnedthewholetownexceptthehouseofthecommandantandafewothers,withthechurchandfort。
Thewomenandchildrenfledintothechurch;anditisaremarkablefactthatnoneofthenativesofthisregionwilleverattackachurch。
HavingrenderedTetearuin,BongacarriedoffallthecattleandplundertohisfatherNewsofthishavingbeenbroughttothearmybeforethestockade,asuddenpanicdispersedthewhole;
andasthefugitivestookroundaboutwaysintheirflight,Katolosa,whohadhithertopretendedtobefriendlywiththePortuguese,sentouthismentocaptureasmanyofthemastheycould。
TheykilledmanyforthesakeoftheirarmsThisistheaccountwhichbothnativesandPortuguesegiveoftheaffair。
Anotherhalf-castefromMacao,calledKisakaorChoutama,ontheoppositebankoftheriver,likewiserebelledHisfatherhavingdied,heimaginedthathehadbeenbewitchedbythePortuguese,andhethereforeplunderedandburnedalltheplantationsoftherichmerchantsofTeteonthenorthbankAsIhavebeforeremarked,thatbankisthemostfertile,andtherethePortuguesehadtheirvillasandplantationstowhichtheydailyretiredfromTeteWhentheseweredestroyedtheTetepeoplewerecompletelyimpoverishedAnattemptwasmadetopunishthisrebel,butitwasalsounsuccessful,andhehaslatelybeenpardonedbythehomegovernmentOnepointinthenarrativeofthisexpeditionisinterestingTheycametoafieldofsugar-canesolargethat4000meneatingitduringtwodaysdidnotfinishthewhole。
ThePortuguesewerethusplacedbetweentwoenemies,NyaudeontherightbankandKisakaontheleft,andnotonlyso,butNyaude,havingplacedhisstockadeonthepointoflandontherightbanksofboththeLuenyaandZambesi,andwashedbyboththeserivers,couldpreventintercoursewiththesea。
TheLuenyarushesintotheZambesiwithgreatforcewhenthelatterislow,and,incominguptheZambesi,boatsmustcrossitandtheLuenyaseparately,evengoingalittlewayupthatriver,soasnottobedrivenawaybyitscurrentinthebedoftheZambesi,anddashedontherockwhichstandsontheoppositeshoreIncominguptotheLuenyaforthispurpose,allboatsandcanoescameclosetothestockadetoberobbed。
NyaudekeptthePortugueseshutupintheirfortatTeteduringtwoyears,andtheycouldonlygetgoodssufficienttobuyfoodbysendingtoKilimanebyanoverlandroutealongthenorthbankoftheZambesi。
Themothercountrydidnotinthese“Caffrewars“paythebills,sonooneeitherbecamerichorblamedthemissionaries。
Themerchantswereunabletoengageintrade,andcommerce,whichtheslave-tradehadrenderedstagnant,wasnowcompletelyobstructed。
ThepresentcommandantofTete,MajorSicard,havinggreatinfluenceamongthenatives,fromhisgoodcharacter,putastoptothewarmorethanoncebyhismerepresenceonthespotWeheardofhimamongtheBanyaiasamanwithwhomtheywouldneverfight,because“hehadagoodheart。”HadIcomedowntothiscoastinsteadofgoingtoLoandain1853,Ishouldhavecomeamongthebelligerentswhilethewarwasstillraging,andshouldprobablyhavebeencutoff。
Mypresentapproachwasjustattheconclusionofthepeace;
andwhenthePortugueseauthoritiesherewereinformed,throughthekindofficesofLordClarendonandCountdeLavradio,thatIwasexpectedtocomethisway,theyalldeclaredthatsuchwastheexistingstateofaffairsthatnoEuropeancouldpossiblypassthroughthetribesSomenativesatlastcamedowntherivertoTeteandsaid,alludingtothesextantandartificialhorizon,that“theSonofGodhadcome。”
andthathewas“abletotakethesundownfromtheheavensandplaceitunderhisarm!”MajorSicardthenfeltsurethatthiswasthemanmentionedinLordClarendon’sdispatch。
OnmentioningtothecommandantthatIhaddiscoveredasmallseamofcoal,hestatedthatthePortuguesewerealreadyawareofninesuchseams,andthatfiveofthemwereontheoppositebankoftheriver。
AssoonasIhadrecoveredfrommyfatigueIwenttoexaminethem。
WeproceededinaboattothemouthoftheLofubuorRevubu,whichisabouttwomilesbelowTete,andontheoppositeornorthernbank。
Ascendingthisaboutfourmilesagainstastrongcurrentofbeautifullyclearwater,welandednearasmallcataract,andwalkedabouttwomilesthroughveryfertilegardenstotheseam,whichwefoundtobeinoneofthefeedersoftheLofubu,calledMuatizeorMotizeTheseamisintheperpendicularbank,anddipsintotherivulet,orinanortherlydirection。
Thereis,firstofall,aseam10inchesindiameter,thensomeshale,belowwhichthereisanotherseam,58inchesofwhichareseen,and,asthebottomtouchesthewateroftheMuatize,itmaybemore。
Thispartoftheseamisabout30yardslongThereisthenafault。
About100yardshigherupthestreamblackvesiculartrapisseen,penetratinginthinveinstheclayshaleofthecountry,convertingitintoporcellanite,andpartiallycrystallizingthecoalwithwhichitcameintocontactOntherightbankoftheLofubuthereisanotherfeederenteringthatrivernearitsconfluencewiththeMuatize,whichiscalledtheMorongozi,inwhichthereisanotherandstilllargerbedofcoalexposed。
FartheruptheLofubuthereareotherseamsintherivuletsInyavuandMakare;
alsoseveralspotsintheMaravicountryhavethecoalcroppingout。
Thishasevidentlybeenbroughttothesurfacebyvolcanicactionatalaterperiodthanthecoalformation。
IalsowentuptheZambesi,andvisitedahotspringcalledNyamboronda,situatedinthebedofasmallrivuletnamedNyaondo,whichshowsthatigneousactionisnotyetextinctWelandedatasmallrivuletcalledMokorozi,thenwentamileortwototheeastward,wherewefoundahotfountainatthebottomofahighhill。
AlittlespringbubblesupononesideoftherivuletNyaondo,andagreatquantityofacridsteamrisesupfromthegroundadjacent,about12feetsquareofwhichissohotthatmycompanionscouldnotstandonitwiththeirbarefeetThereareseverallittleholesfromwhichthewatertrickles,buttheprincipalspringisinaholeafootindiameter,andaboutthesameindepthNumbersofbubblesareconstantlyrising。
Thesteamfeelsacridinthethroat,butisnotinflammable,asitdidnotburnwhenIheldabunchoflightedgrassoverthebubbles。
Themercuryrisesto158Degwhenthethermometerisputintothewaterinthehole,butafterafewsecondsitstandssteadilyat160Deg。
Evenwhenflowingoverthestonesthewateristoohotforthehand。
Littlefishfrequentlyleapoutofthestreaminthebedofwhichthefountainrises,intothehotwater,andgetscaldedtodeath。
Wesawafrogwhichhadperformedtheexperiment,andwasnowcooked。
Thestonesoverwhichthewaterflowsareincrustedwithawhitesalt,andthewaterhasasalinetasteThegroundhasbeendugoutnearthefountainbythenatives,inordertoextractthesaltitcontains。
Itissituatedamongrocksofsyeniticporphyryinbroaddikes,andgneisstiltedonedge,andhavingastriketotheN。E。
Therearemanyspecimensofhalf-formedpumice,withgreenstoneandlava。
Someofthesandstonestrataaredislocatedbyahornblenderockandbybasalt,thesandstonenearesttothebasaltbeingconvertedintoquartz。
Thecountryaround,asindeedallthedistrictlyingNandN。WofTete,ishilly,and,thehillsbeingcoveredwithtrees,thesceneryisverypicturesqueThesoilofthevalleysisveryfruitfulandwellcultivatedTherewouldnotbemuchdifficultyinworkingthecoal。
TheLofubuisabout60yardsbroad;itflowsperennially,andatitsverylowestperiod,whichisafterSeptember,thereiswaterabout18inchesdeep,whichcouldbenavigatedinflat-bottomedboatsAtthetimeofmyvisititwasfull,andthecurrentwasverystrongIfthesmallcataractreferredtoweretobeavoided,theland-carriagebeyondwouldonlybeabouttwomiles。
Theotherseamsfartheruptherivermay,afterpassingthecataract,beapproachedmoreeasilythanthatintheMuatize;astheseam,however,dipsdownintothestream,nodrainageoftheminewouldberequired,forifwaterwerecometoitwouldrunintothestream。
Ididnotvisittheothers,butIwasinformedthatthereareseamsintheindependentnativeterritoryaswellasinthatofthePortuguese。
ThatintheNakeisintheBanyaicountry,and,indeed,IhavenodoubtbutthatthewholecountrybetweenZumboandLupataisacoal-fieldofatleast2-1/2Degoflatitudeinbreadth,havingmanyfaults,madeduringthetimeoftheigneousaction。
ThegraysandstonerockhavingsilicifiedtreeslyingonitisofthesedimensionsTheplantationinwhichtheseamofcoalexistswouldbevaluedamongthePortugueseatabout60dollarsor12Pounds,butmuchmorewouldprobablybeaskedifawealthypurchaserappeared。
Theycouldnot,however,raisethepriceverymuchhigher,becauseestatescontainingcoalmightbehadfromthenativeownersatamuchcheaperrateThewagesoffreelaborers,whenemployedinsuchworkasgold-washing,agriculture,ordiggingcoal,is2yardsofunbleachedcalicoperdayTheymightbegottoworkcheaperifengagedbythemoon,orforabout16yardspermonth。
Formasonsandcarpenterseven,theordinaryrateis2yardsperday。
Thisiscalled1bracaTradesmenfromKilimanedemand4bracas,or8yards,perdayEnglishorAmericanunbleachedcalicoistheonlycurrencyusedThecarriageofgoodsuptherivertoTeteaddsabout10percenttotheircostTheusualconveyanceisbymeansofverylargecanoesandlaunchesbuiltatSenna。
Theamountofmerchandisebroughtupduringthefivemonthsofpeaceprevioustomyvisitwasofthevalueof30,000dollars,orabout6000Pounds。
Theannualsupplyofgoodsfortradeisabout15,000Pounds,beingcalico,thickbrasswire,beads,gunpowder,andguns。
Thequantityofthelatteris,however,small,asthegovernmentofMozambiquemadethatarticlecontrabandafterthecommencementofthewar。
Goods,whentradedwithinthetribesaroundthePortuguese,produceaprofitofonlyabout10percent。,thearticlestradedinbeingivoryandgold-dustAlittleoilandwheatareexported,butnothingelse。
Tradewiththetribesbeyondtheexclusiveonesismuchbetter。
Thirtybrassringscost10satSenna,1PoundatTete,and2PoundsbeyondthetribesinthevicinityofTete;theseareagoodpriceforapenfulofgold-dustofthevalueof2PoundsTheplantationsofcoffee,which,previoustothecommencementoftheslave-trade,yieldedonematerialforexportation,arenowdeserted,anditisdifficulttofindasingletree。
Theindigo`Indigoferaargentea’,thecommonwildindigoofAfrica
isfoundgrowingeverywhere,andlargequantitiesofthesenna-plant*
growinthevillageofTeteandotherparts,butneitherindigonorsennaiscollectedCalumba-root,whichisfoundinabundanceinsomepartsfartherdowntheriver,isboughtbytheAmericans,itissaid,touseasadye-stuffAkindofsarsaparilla,oraplantwhichisbelievedbythePortuguesetobesuch,isfoundfromLondatoSenna,buthasneverbeenexported。
*Theseappeartobelongto`Cassiaacutifolia’,ortruesennaofcommerce,foundinvariouspartsofAfricaandIndiaDrHooker。