Ishouldhavelikedtoformtheiracquaintance，andtolearnwhattheyreallythinkofwhitemenIunderstoodfromSekwebu，andfromoneofChangamera’speoplewholivesatLinyanti，andwaspresentattheattackonSenna，thattheyconsiderthewhitesasaconqueredtribe。
　　TheZambesiatMazaroisamagnificentriver，morethanhalfamilewide，andwithoutislandsTheoppositebankiscoveredwithforestsoffinetimber；butthedeltawhichbeginshereisonlyanimmenseflat，coveredwithhigh，coarsegrassandreeds，withhereandthereafewmangoandcocoanuttreesThiswasthepointwhichwasreachedbythelatelamentedCaptainParker，whofellattheSulinamouthoftheDanubeIhadastrongdesiretofollowtheZambesifarther，andascertainwherethisenormousbodyofwaterfounditswayintothesea；butonhearingfromthePortuguesethathehadascendedtothispoint，andhadbeenhighlypleasedwiththecapabilitiesoftheriver，IfeltsurethathisvaluableopinionmustbeinpossessionoftheAdmiraltyOnmyarrivalinEnglandIappliedtoCaptainWashington，HydrographertotheAdmiralty，andhepromptlyfurnishedthedocumentforpublicationbytheRoyalGeographicalSociety。
　　TheriverbetweenMazaroandtheseamustthereforebejudgedoffromthetestimonyofonemorecompetenttodecideonitsmeritsthanamerelandsmanlikemyself。
　　`OntheQuilimaneandZambesiRivers’FromtheJournalofthelateCaptHYDEPARKER，R。N。，HMBrig“Pantaloon“。
　　“TheLuaboisthemainoutletoftheGreatZambesiIntherainyseasonJanuaryandFebruaryprincipallythewholecountryisoverflowed，andthewaterescapesbythedifferentriversasfarupasQuilimane；
　　butinthedryseasonneitherQuilimanenorOlindacommunicateswithit。
　　ThepositionoftheriverisratherincorrectintheAdmiraltychart，beingsixmilestoomuchtothesouthward，andalsoconsiderablytothewestwardIndeed，thecoastfromhereuptoTongamiaraseemstoofartothewestwardTheentrancetotheLuaboRiverisabouttwomilesbroad，andiseasilydistinguishable，whenabreastofit，byabluffifImaysotermitofhigh，straighttrees，veryclosetogether，onthewesternsideoftheentranceThebarmaybesaidtobeformedbytwoseriesofsand-banks；thatrunningfromtheeasternpointrunsdiagonallyacrossopposite？theentranceandnearlyacrossit。
　　Itswesternextremityisabouttwomilesoutsidethewestpoint。
　　“Thebankrunningoutfromthewestpointprojectstothesouthwardthreemilesandahalf，passingnotonequarterofamilefromtheeasternorcrossbankThisnarrowpassageistheBARPASSAGE。
　　Itbreakscompletelyacrossatlowwater，exceptunderveryextraordinarycircumstancesAtthistimelowwater
　　agreatportionofthebanksareuncovered；insomeplacestheyaresevenoreightfeetabovewater。
　　“Onthesebanksthereisabreakatalltimes，butinfineweather，athighwater，aboatmaycrossneartheeastpoint。
　　Thereisverylittlewater，and，inplaces，anastyraceandbubble，sothatcautionisrequisiteThebestdirectionsforgoinginovertheregularbarpassage，accordingtomyexperience，areasfollows：
　　Steerdownwelltotheeastwardofthebarpassage，soastoavoidtheouterpartofthewesternshoals，onwhichthereisusuallyabadsea。
　　WhenyougetneartheCROSS-BAR，keepalongittillthebluffoftreesonthewestsideoftheentrancebearsN。E。；youmaythensteerstraightforitThiswillcleartheendoftheCROSS-BAR，and，directlyyouarewithinthat，thewaterissmoothTheworstseaisgenerallyjustwithoutthebarpassage。
　　“Withinthepointstheriverwidensatfirstandthencontractsagain。
　　AboutthreemilesfromtheTreeBluffisanisland；thepassageuptheriveristheright-handsideofit，anddeepTheplanwillbestexplainit。
　　Theriseandfallofthetideattheentranceoftheriverbeingatspringstwentyfeet，anyvesselcangetinatthattime，but，withalltheseconveniencesfortraffic，thereisnonehereatpresent。
　　Thewaterintheriverisfreshdowntothebarwiththeebbtide，andintherainyseasonitisfreshatthesurfacequiteoutside。
　　Intherainyseason，atthefullandchangeofthemoon，theZambesifrequentlyoverflowsitsbanks，makingthecountryforanimmensedistanceonegreatlake，withonlyafewsmalleminencesabovethewaterOnthebanksoftheriverthehutsarebuiltonpiles，andatthesetimesthecommunicationisonlyincanoes；
　　butthewatersdonotremainupmorethanthreeorfourdaysatatime。
　　Thefirstvillageisabouteightmilesuptheriver，onthewesternbank，andisoppositetoanotherbranchoftherivercalled`Muselo’，whichdischargesitselfintotheseaaboutfivemilestotheeastward。
　　“Thevillageisextensive，andaboutitthereisaverylargequantityoflandincultivation；calavances，orbeans，ofdifferentsorts，rice，andpumpkins，aretheprincipalthingsIsawalsoaboutheresomewildcotton，apparentlyofverygoodquality，butnoneiscultivated。
　　Thelandissofertileastoproducealmostanything？withoutmuchtrouble。
　　“Atthisvillageisaverylargehouse，mud-built，withacourt-yard。
　　Ibelieveittohavebeenusedasabarracoonforslaves，severallargecargoeshavingbeenexportedfromthisriver。
　　IproceededuptheriverasfarasitsjunctionwiththeQuilimaneRiver，called`BocadoRio’，bymycomputationbetween70and80milesfromtheentranceTheinfluenceofthetidesisfeltabout25or30milesuptheriverAbovethat，thestream，inthedryseason，runsfrom1-1/2to2-1/2milesanhour，butintherainsmuchstronger。
　　Thebanksoftheriver，forthefirst30miles，aregenerallythicklyclothedwithtrees，withoccasionalopengladesTherearemanyhutsandvillagesonbothsides，andagreatdealofcultivationAtonevillage，about17milesupontheeasternbank，anddistinguishedbybeingsurroundedbyanimmensenumberofbananasandplantain-trees，agreatquantityofexcellentpeasarecultivated；alsocabbages，tomatoes，onions，etcAbovethistherearenotmanyinhabitantsontheleftorwestbank，althoughitismuchthefinestcountry，beinghigher，andaboundingincocoanutpalms，theeasternbankbeingsandyandbarrenThereasonis，thatsomeyearsbacktheLandeens，orCaffres，ravagedallthiscountry，killingthemenandtakingthewomenasslaves，buttheyhavenevercrossedtheriver；hencethenativesareafraidtosettleonthewestbank，andthePortugueseownersofthedifferent`prasos’havevirtuallylostthemThebanksoftherivercontinuemostlysandy，withfewtrees，exceptsomecocoanutpalms，untilthesouthernendofthelargeplantationofNyangue，formedbytheriverabout20milesfromMaruruHerethecountryismorepopulousandbettercultivated，thenativesafinerrace，andthehutslargerandbetterconstructedMarurubelongstoSenorAsevedo，ofQuilimane，wellknowntoallEnglishofficersontheeastcoastforhishospitality。
　　“Theclimatehereismuchcoolerthannearerthesea，andAsevedohassuccessfullycultivatedmostEuropeanaswellastropicalvegetables。
　　Thesugar-canethrives，asalsocoffeeandcotton，andindigoisaweed。
　　Cattleherearebeautiful，andsomeofthemmightshowwithcreditinEngland。
　　Thenativesareintelligent，andunderagoodgovernmentthisfinecountrymightbecomeveryvaluableThreemilesfromMaruruisMesan，averyprettyvillageamongpalmandmangotreesThereishereagoodhousebelongingtoaSenorFerrao；closebyisthecanalMutuofcommunicationbetweentheQuilimaneandZambesirivers，whichintherainyseasonisnavigable？IvisiteditinthemonthofOctober，whichisaboutthedryesttimeoftheyear；itwasthenadrycanal，about30or40yardswide，overgrownwithtreesandgrass，and，atthebottom，atleast16or17feetabovetheleveloftheZambesi，whichwasrunningbeneathIntherains，bythemarksIsaw，theentranceriseoftherivermustbeverynearly30feet，andthevolumeofwaterdischargedbyittheZambesienormous。
　　“AboveMaruruthecountrybeginstobecomemorehilly，andthehighmountainsofBoruruareinsight；thefirstviewoftheseisobtainedbelowNyangue，andtheymustbeofconsiderableheight，asfromthistheyaredistantabove40milesTheyarereportedtocontaingreatmineralwealth；goldandcopperbeingfoundintherange，asalsoCOAL？ThenativesLandeensareabold，independentrace，whodonotacknowledgethePortugueseauthority，andevenmakethempayforleavetopassunmolestedThroughoutthewholecourseoftheriverhippopotamiwereveryabundant，andatonevillageachasebythenativeswaswitnessedTheyharpoontheanimalwithabarbedlance，towhichisattached，byacord3or4fathomslong，aninflatedbladder。
　　Thenativesfollowintheircanoes，andlookouttofixmoreharpoonsastheanimalrisestoblow，and，whenexhausted，dispatchhimwiththeirlancesItis，infact，nearlysimilartoawhale-hunt。
　　Elephantsandlionsarealsoabundantonthewesternside；
　　thelatterdestroymanyoftheblacksannually，andaremuchfearedbythem。
　　Alligatorsaresaidtobenumerous，butIdidnotseeany。
　　“ThevoyageuptoMaruruoccupiedsevendays，asIdidnotworkthemenattheoar，butitmightbedoneinfour；wereturnedtothebarintwoandahalfdays。
　　“ThereisanothermouthoftheZambesisevenmilestothewestwardofLuabo，whichwasvisitedbythe`Castor’spinnace’；andIwasassuredbyLieutenantHoskinsthatthebarwasbetterthantheoneIvisited。”
　　TheconclusionsofCaptainParkerarestrengthenedbythoseofLieutAHHHoskins，whowasonthecoastatthesametime，andalsovisitedthisspotHavingappliedtomyfriendforhisdeliberateopiniononthesubject，hepromptlyfurnishedthefollowingnoteinJanuarylast：
　　“TheZambesiappearstohavefiveprincipalmouths，ofwhichtheLuaboisthemostsouthernandmostnavigable；Cumana，andtwowhosenamesIdonotknow，nothavingmyselfvisitedit，lyingbetweenitandtheQuilimane，andtheriseandfallatspringtidesonthebaroftheLuabois22feet；andas，inthepassage，thereisNEVER
　　lessthanfourfeetIhavingcrosseditatdeadlow-watersprings，thiswouldgiveanaveragedepthsufficientforanycommercialpurposes。
　　Theriseandfallissixfeetgreater，thepassagesnarrowandmoredefined，consequentlydeeperandmoreeasilyfoundthanthatoftheQuilimaneRiver。
　　Theriverabovethebarisverytortuous，butdeep；anditisobservablethattheinfluenceofthetideisfeltmuchhigherinthisbranchthanintheothers；forwhereasintheCatrinaandCumanaIhaveobtaineddrinkablewateraveryshortdistancefromthemouth，intheLuaboIhaveascendedseventymileswithoutfindingthesaltnessperceptiblydiminished。
　　Thiswouldfacilitatenavigation，andIhavenohesitationinsayingthatlittledifficultywouldbeexperiencedinconveyingasteam-vesselofthesizeandcapabilitiesofthegunboatIlatelycommandedashighasthebranchingoffoftheQuilimaneRiverMazaro，which，inthedryseason，isobservedmanyyardsabovetheLuabomainstream；
　　thoughIhavebeentoldbythePortuguesethatthefresheswhichcomedowninDecemberandMarchfillittemporarily。
　　Thesefreshesdeepentheriverconsiderablyatthattimeoftheyear，andfreshenthewatermanymilesfromthecoastThepopulationofthedelta，exceptintheimmediateneighborhoodofthePortuguese，appearedtobeverysparseAntelopesandhippopotamiwereplentiful；
　　theformertameandeasilyshotIinquiredfrequentlyofbothnativesandPortugueseifslaverswereinthehabitofenteringtheretoshiptheircargoes，butcouldnotascertainthattheyhaveeverdonesoinanyexcepttheQuilimaneWithcommonprecautiontheriversarenotunhealthy；for，duringthewholetimeIwasemployedinthemoffandonduringeighteenmonths，inopenboatsandatalltimesoftheyear，frequentlyabsentfromtheshipforamonthorsixweeksatatime，Ihadnot，inmyboat’screwoffourteenmen，morethantwo，andthosemild，casesoffeverToomuchimportancecannotbeascribedtotheuseofquinine，towhichIattributeourcomparativeimmunity，andwithwhichourjudiciouscommander，CommodoreWyvill，keptusamplysuppliedIhopethesefewremarksmaybeofsomelittleuseinconfirmingyourviewsoftheutilityofthatmagnificentriver。
　　AHHHoskins。”
　　Itoughttoberememberedthatthetestimonyofthesegentlemenisallthemorevaluable，becausetheyvisitedtheriverwhenthewaterwasatitslowest，andthesurfaceoftheZambesiwasnot，asitwasnow，onalevelwithandflowingintotheMutu，butsixteenfeetbeneathitsbed。
　　TheMutu，atthepointofdeparture，wasonlytenortwelveyardsbroad，shallow，andfilledwithaquaticplantsTreesandreedsalongthebanksoverhangitsomuch，that，thoughwehadbroughtcanoesandaboatfromTete，wewereunabletoentertheMutuwiththem，andleftthematMazaro。
　　DuringmostoftheyearthispartoftheMutuisdry，andwewereevennowobligedtocarryallourluggagebylandforaboutfifteenmiles。
　　AsKilimaneiscalled，inallthePortuguesedocuments，thecapitaloftheriversofSenna，itseemedstrangetomethatthecapitalshouldbebuiltatapointwheretherewasnodirectwaterconveyancetothemagnificentriverwhosenameitbore；and，oninquiry，IwasinformedthatthewholeoftheMutuwaslargeindaysofyore，andadmittedofthefreepassageofgreatlaunchesfromKilimanealltheyearround，butthatnowthispartoftheMutuhadbeenfilledup。