isletsinmarshesandriversareitsfavoritehaunts,anditisquiteunknownexceptinthecentralhumidbasinofAfricaHavingagooddealofcuriosity,itpresentsanobleappearanceasitstandsgazing,withheaderect,attheapproachingstrangerWhenitresolvestodecamp,itlowersitshead,andlaysitshornsdowntoalevelwiththewithers;itthenbeginswithawaddlingtrot,whichendsinitsgallopingandspringingoverbusheslikethepallahsItinvariablyrunstothewater,andcrossesitbyasuccessionofbounds,eachofwhichappearstobefromthebottom。
Wethoughtthefleshgoodatfirst,butsoongottiredofit。
Greatshoalsofexcellentfishcomedownannuallywiththeaccessofwaters。
Themullet`MugilAfricanus’isthemostabundantTheyarecaughtinnets。
The`Glanissiluris’,alarge,broad-headedfish,withoutscales,andbarbedcalledbythenatives“mosala“attainsanenormoussizeandfatness。
TheyarecaughtsolargethatwhenamancarriesoneoverhisshoulderthetailreachesthegroundItisavegetablefeeder,andinmanyofitshabitsresemblestheeelLikemostlophoidfishes,ithasthepowerofretainingalargequantityofwaterinapartofitsgreathead,sothatitcanleavetheriver,andevenbeburiedinthemudofdried-uppools,withoutbeingdestroyed。
Anotherfishcloselyresemblingthis,andnamed`Clariascapensis’
byDrSmith,iswidelydiffusedthroughouttheinterior,andoftenleavestheriversforthesakeoffeedinginpools。
Asthesedryup,largenumbersofthemareentrappedbythepeople。
Awater-snake,yellow-spottedanddarkbrown,isoftenseenswimmingalongwithitsheadabovethewater:itisquiteharmless,andisrelishedasfoodbytheBayeiye。
Theymentiontenkindsoffishintheirriver;and,intheirsongsofpraisetotheZouga,say,“Themessengersentinhasteisalwaysforcedtospendthenightonthewaybytheabundanceoffoodyouplacebeforehim。”
TheBayeiyelivemuchonfish,whichisquiteanabominationtotheBechuanasofthesouth;andtheycatchtheminlargenumbersbymeansofnetsmadeofthefine,strongfibresofthehibiscus,whichgrowsabundantlyinallmoistplacesTheirfloat-ropesaremadeoftheife,or,asitisnowcalled,the`SanseviereAngolensis’,aflag-lookingplant,havingaverystrongfibre,thataboundsfromKolobengtoAngola;andthefloatsthemselvesarepiecesofawater-plantcontainingvalvesateachjoint,whichretaintheairincellsaboutaninchlongThemodeofknottingthenetsisidenticalwithourown。
Theyalsospearthefishwithjavelinshavingalighthandle,whichreadilyfloatsonthesurfaceTheyshowgreatdexterityinharpooningthehippopotamus;and,thebarbedbladeofthespearbeingattachedtoaropemadeoftheyoungleavesofthepalmyra,theanimalcannotridhimselfofthecanoe,attachedtohiminwhalefashion,exceptbysmashingit,whichhenotunfrequentlydoesbyhisteethorbyastrokeofhishindfoot。
OnreturningtotheBakurutse,wefoundthattheircanoesforfishingweresimplylargebundlesofreedstiedtogetherSuchacanoewouldbeareadyextemporaneouspontoonforcrossinganyriverthathadreedybanks。
Chapter4。
LeaveKolobengagainfortheCountryofSebituaneReachtheZouga
TheTsetseAPartyofEnglishmenDeathofMrRider
ObtainGuidesChildrenfallsickwithFeverRelinquishtheAttempttoreachSebituaneMrOswell’sElephant-hunting
ReturntoKolobengMakeathirdStartthence
ReachNchokotsaSalt-pans“Links“,orSpringsBushmen
OurGuideShoboTheBanajoaAnuglyChiefTheTsetse
BitefataltodomesticAnimals,butharmlesstowildAnimalsandMan
OperationofthePoisonLossescausedbyitTheMakololo
OurMeetingwithSebituaneSketchofhisCareer
HisCourageandConquestsManoeuvresoftheBatokaHeoutwitsthemHisWarswiththeMatebelePredictionsofanativeProphet
SuccessesoftheMakololoRenewedAttacksoftheMatebele
TheIslandofLoyeloDefeatoftheMatebeleSebituane’sPolicy
HisKindnesstoStrangersandtothePoorHissuddenIllnessandDeath
SucceededbyhisDaughterHerFriendlinesstousDiscovery,inJune,1851,oftheZambesiflowingintheCentreoftheContinent
ItsSizeTheMambariTheSlave-tradeDeterminetosendFamilytoEnglandReturntotheCapeinApril,1852SafeTransitthroughtheCaffreCountryduringHostilitiesNeedofa“SpecialCorrespondent“
KindnessoftheLondonMissionarySocietyAssistanceaffordedbytheAstronomerRoyalattheCape。
HavingreturnedtoKolobeng,IremainedtheretillApril,1850,andthenleftincompanywithMrsLivingstone,ourthreechildren,andthechiefSechelewhohadnowboughtawagonofhisown
inordertogoacrosstheZougaatitslowerend,withtheintentionofproceedingupthenorthernbanktillwegainedtheTamunak’le,andofthenascendingthatrivertovisitSebituaneinthenorth。
SekomihadgivenorderstofillupthewellswhichwehaddugwithsomuchlaboratSerotli,sowetookthemoreeasternroutethroughtheBamangwatotownandbyLetlocheThatchiefaskedwhyIhadavoidedhiminourformerjourneysIrepliedthatmyreasonwasthatIknewhedidnotwishmetogotothelake,andIdidnotwanttoquarrelwithhim“Well。”hesaid,“youbeatmethen,andIamcontent。”
PartingwithSecheleattheford,ashewaseagertovisitLechulatebe,wewentalongthenorthernwoodybankoftheZougawithgreatlabor,havingtocutdownverymanytreestoallowthewagonstopass。
Ourlossesbyoxenfallingintopitfallswereveryheavy。
TheBayeiyekindlyopenedthepitswhentheyknewofourapproach;
butwhenthatwasnotthecase,wecouldblamenooneonfindinganestablishedcustomofthecountryinimicaltoourinterests。
OnapproachingtheconfluenceoftheTamunak’lewewereinformedthattheflycalledtsetse*aboundedonitsbanksThiswasabarrierweneverexpectedtomeet;and,asitmighthavebroughtourwagonstoacompletestand-stillinawilderness,wherenosuppliesforthechildrencouldbeobtained,wewerereluctantlycompelledtorecrosstheZouga。
*`Glossinamorsitans’,thefirstspecimensofwhichwerebroughttoEnglandin1848bymyfriendMajorVardon,fromthebanksoftheLimpopo。
FromtheBayeiyewelearnedthatapartyofEnglishmen,whohadcometothelakeinsearchofivory,werealllaidlowbyfever,sowetraveledhastilydownaboutsixtymilestorenderwhataidwasinourpowerWeweregrievedtofind,aswecamenear,thatMrAlfredRider,anenterprisingyoungartistwhohadcometomakesketchesofthiscountryandofthelakeimmediatelyafteritsdiscovery,haddiedoffeverbeforeourarrival;butbytheaidofmedicinesandsuchcomfortsascouldbemadebytheonlyEnglishladywhoevervisitedthelake,theothershappilyrecovered。
TheunfinisheddrawingofLakeNgamiwasmadebyMrRiderjustbeforehisdeath,andhasbeenkindlylentforthisworkbyhisbereavedmother。
SecheleusedallhispowersofeloquencewithLechulatebetoinducehimtofurnishguidesthatImightbeabletovisitSebituaneonox-back,whileMrsLivingstoneandthechildrenremainedatLakeNgami。
HeyieldedatlastIhadaverysuperiorLondon-madegun,thegiftofLieutenantArkwright,onwhichIplacedthegreatestvalue,bothonaccountofthedonorandtheimpossibilityofmyreplacingit。
Lechulatebefellviolentlyinlovewithit,andofferedwhatevernumberofelephants’tusksImightaskforit。
ItoowasenamoredwithSebituane;andashepromisedinadditionthathewouldfurnishMrsLivingstonewithmeatallthetimeofmyabsence,hisargumentsmademepartwiththegunThoughhehadnoivoryatthetimetopayme,Ifeltthepiecewouldbewellspentonthoseterms,anddeliveredittohimAllbeingreadyforourdeparture,ItookMrsLivingstoneaboutsixmilesfromthetown,thatshemighthaveapeepatthebroadpartofthelakeNextmorningwehadotherworktodothanpart,forourlittleboyandgirlwereseizedwithfever。
Onthedayfollowing,allourservantsweredowntoowiththesamecomplaint。
Asnothingisbetterinthesecasesthanchangeofplace,IwasforcedtogiveupthehopeofseeingSebituanethatyear;
so,leavingmygunaspartpaymentforguidesnextyear,westartedforthepureairoftheDesert。
SomemistakehadhappenedinthearrangementwithMrOswell,forwemethimontheZougaonourreturn,andhedevotedtherestofthisseasontoelephant-hunting,atwhichthenativesuniversallydeclareheisthegreatestadeptthatevercameintothecountry。
HehuntedwithoutdogsItisremarkablethatthislordlyanimalissocompletelyharassedbythepresenceofafewyelpingcursastobequiteincapableofattendingtomanHemakesawkwardattemptstocrushthembyfallingonhisknees;andsometimesplaceshisforeheadagainstatreeteninchesindiameter;glancingononesideofthetreeandthenontheother,hepushesitdownbeforehim,asifhethoughttherebytocatchhisenemiesTheonlydangerthehuntsmanhastoapprehendisthedogsrunningtowardhim,andtherebyleadingtheelephanttotheirmaster。
MrOswellhasbeenknowntokillfourlargeoldmaleelephantsaday。
Thevalueoftheivoryinthesecaseswouldbeonehundredguineas。
Wehadreasontobeproudofhissuccess,fortheinhabitantsconceivedfromitaveryhighideaofEnglishcourage;
andwhentheywishedtoflattermewouldsay,“IfyouwerenotamissionaryyouwouldjustbelikeOswell;youwouldnothuntwithdogseither。”
When,in1852,wecametotheCape,myblackcoatelevenyearsoutoffashion,andwithoutapennyofsalarytodraw,wefoundthatMrOswellhadmostgenerouslyorderedanoutfitforthehalf-nakedchildren,whichcostabout200Pounds,andpresentedittous,sayinghethoughtMrsLivingstonehadarighttothegameofherownpreserves。
FoiledinthissecondattempttoreachSebituane,wereturnedagaintoKolobeng,whitherweweresoonfollowedbyanumberofmessengersfromthatchiefhimselfWhenheheardofourattemptstovisithim,hedispatchedthreedetachmentsofhismenwiththirteenbrowncowstoLechulatebe,thirteenwhitecowstoSekomi,andthirteenblackcowstoSechele,witharequesttoeachtoassistthewhitementoreachhim。
Theirpolicy,however,wastokeephimoutofview,andactashisagentsinpurchasingwithhisivorythegoodshewantedThisisthoroughlyAfrican;
andthatcontinentbeingwithoutfrithsandarmsofthesea,thetribesinthecentrehavealwaysbeendebarredfromEuropeanintercoursebyitsuniversalprevalenceamongallthepeoplearoundthecoasts。
BeforesettingoutonourthirdjourneytoSebituane,itwasnecessarytovisitKuruman;andSechele,eager,forthesakeofthecommissionthereon,togettheivoryofthatchiefintohisownhands,allowedallthemessengerstoleavebeforeourreturnSekomi,however,wasmorethanusuallygracious,andevenfurnisheduswithaguide,butnooneknewthepathbeyondNchokotsawhichweintendedtofollowWhenwereachedthatpoint,wefoundthatthemainspringofthegunofanotherofhismen,whowaswellacquaintedwiththeBushmen,throughwhosecountryweshouldpass,hadopportunelybrokenIneverundertooktomendagunwithgreaterzestthanthis;for,underpromiseofhisguidance,wewenttothenorthinsteadofwestwardAlltheotherguidesweremostliberallyrewardedbyMrOswell。
Wepassedquicklyoverahardcountry,whichisperfectlyflatAlittlesoillyingoncalcareoustufa,overatractofseveralhundredsofmiles,supportsavegetationoffinesweetshortgrass,andmopaneandbaobabtrees。
Onseveralpartsofthiswefoundlargesalt-pans,oneofwhich,Ntwetwe,isfifteenmilesbroadandonehundredlong。
Thelatitudemighthavebeentakenonitshorizonaswellasuponthesea。
Althoughthesecuriousspotsseemperfectlylevel,allthoseinthisdirectionhaveagentleslopetothenortheast:thithertherain-water,whichsometimescoversthem,gentlygravitatesThis,itmayberecollected,isthedirectionoftheZougaThesaltdissolvedinthewaterhasbythismeansallbeentransferredtoonepaninthatdirection,namedChuantsa;onitweseeacakeofsaltandlimeaninchandahalfthick。
Alltheothershaveanefflorescenceoflimeandoneofthenitratesonly,andsomearecoveredthicklywithshellsTheseshellsareidenticalwiththoseofthemolluscaofLakeNgamiandtheZouga。