Attheeasternendthesehillshavecuriousfungoidorcup-shapedhollows,ofasizewhichsuggeststheideaofcratersWithinthesearemassesoftherockcrystallizedinthecolumnarformofthisformation。
Thetopsofthecolumnsarequitedistinct,ofthehexagonalform,likethebottomofthecellsofahoneycomb,buttheyarenotpartedfromeachotherasintheCaveofFingalInmanypartsthelava-streamsmayberecognized,fortheretherockisrentandsplitineverydirection,butnosoilisyetfoundintheintersticesWhenweweresittingintheevening,afterahotday,itwasquitecommontohearthesemassesofbasaltsplitandfallamongeachotherwiththepeculiarringingsoundwhichmakespeoplebelievethatthisrockcontainsmuchironSeverallargemasses,insplittingthusbythecoldactingsuddenlyonpartsexpandedbytheheatoftheday,haveslippeddownthesidesofthehills,and,impingingagainsteachother,haveformedcavitiesinwhichtheBakaatookrefugeagainsttheirenemies。
Thenumerouschinksandcranniesleftbythesehugefragmentsmadeitquiteimpossiblefortheirenemiestosmokethemout,aswasdonebytheBoerstothepeopleofMankopane。
Thismassofbasalt,aboutsixmileslong,hastilteduptherocksonboththeeastandwest;theseupheavedrocksaretheancientsilurianschistswhichformedthebottomofthegreatprimaevalvalley,and,likealltherecentvolcanicrocksofthiscountry,haveahotfountainintheirvicinity,namely,thatofSerinane。
InpassingthroughthesehillsonourwaynorthweenterapassnamedManakalongwe,orUnicorn’sPassTheunicornhereisalargeediblecaterpillar,withanerect,horn-liketail。
ThepasswasalsocalledPoraporaorgurglingofwater,fromastreamhavingrunthroughitThescenemusthavebeenverydifferentinformertimesfromwhatitisnowThisispartoftheRiverMahalapi,whichso-calledriverscarcelymeritsthename,anymorethanthemeadowsofEdinburghdeservethetitleofNorthLoch。
ThesehillsarethelastweshallseeformonthsThecountrybeyondconsistedoflargepatchesoftrap-coveredtufa,havinglittlesoilorvegetationexcepttuftsofgrassandwait-a-bitthorns,inthemidstofextensivesandy,grass-coveredplains。
Theseyellow-colored,grassyplains,withmoretloaandmahatlabushes,formquiteacharacteristicfeatureofthecountryTheyellowordun-colorprevailsduringagreatpartoftheyearTheBakwainhillsareanexceptiontotheusualflatsurface,fortheyarecoveredwithgreentreestotheirtops,andthevalleysareoftenofthemostlovelygreen。
Thetreesarelargertoo,andeventheplainsoftheBakwaincountrycontaintreesinsteadofbushesIfyoulooknorthfromthehillswearenowleaving,thecountrypartakesofthislattercharacter。
Itappearsasifitwereaflatcoveredwithaforestofordinary-sizedtreesfrom20to30feethigh,butwhenyoutraveloverittheyarenotsocloselyplantedbutthatawagonwithcaremaybeguidedamongthemThegrassgrowsintuftsofthesizeofone’shat,withbaresoftsandbetweenNowhereherehaveweanapproachtoEnglishlawns,orthepleasingappearanceofEnglishgreensward。
InnopartofthiscountrycouldEuropeangrainbecultivatedwithoutirrigationThenativesallcultivatethedourrhaorholcussorghum,maize,pumpkins,melons,cucumbers,anddifferentkindsofbeans;
andtheyareentirelydependentforthegrowthoftheseonrains。
Theirinstrumentofcultureisthehoe,andthechieflaborfallsonthefemaleportionofthecommunityInthisrespecttheBechuanascloselyresembletheCaffresThemenengageinhunting,milkthecows,andhavetheentirecontrolofthecattle;
theypreparetheskins,maketheclothing,andinmanyrespectsmaybeconsideredanationoftailors。
WhenatSekomi’swegenerallyhaveheardhispraisessoundedbyamanwhorisesatbreakofday,anduttersatthetopofhisvoicetheorationwhichthatrulerissaidtohavecomposedathisboguera。
Thisrepetitionofhis“leina“,ororation,issopleasingtoachief,thathegenerallysendsahandsomepresenttothemanwhodoesit。
JANUARY28THPassingontoLetloche,abouttwentymilesbeyondtheBamangwato,wefoundafinesupplyofwater。
Thisisapointofsomuchinterestinthatcountrythatthefirstquestionweaskofpassersbyis,“Haveyouhadwater?”thefirstinquiryanativeputstoafellow-countrymanis,“Whereistherain?”and,thoughtheyarebynomeansanuntruthfulnation,theanswergenerallyis,“Idon’tknowthereisnonewearekilledwithhungerandbythesun。”
Ifnewsisaskedfor,theycommencewith,“Thereisnonews:
Iheardsomeliesonly。”andthentellalltheyknow。
ThisspotwasMrGordonCumming’sfurtheststationnorth。
OurhouseatKolobenghavingbeenquiteinthehunting-country,rhinocerosandbuffaloesseveraltimesrushedpast,andIwasabletoshootthelattertwicefromourowndoorWewerefavoredbyvisitsfromthisfamoushunterduringeachofthefiveyearsofhiswarfarewithwildanimalsManyEnglishgentlemenfollowingthesamepursuitspaidtheirguidesandassistantssopunctuallythatinmakingarrangementsforthemwehadtobecarefulthatfourdidnotgowheretwoonlywerewanted:theyknewsowellthatanEnglishmanwouldpaythattheydependedimplicitlyonhiswordofhonor,andnotonlywouldtheygoandhuntforfiveorsixmonthsinthenorth,enduringallthehardshipsofthattryingmodeoflife,withlittleelsebutmeatofgametosubsiston,buttheywillinglywentsevenhundredoreighthundredmilestoGraham’sTown,receivingforwagesonlyamusketworthfifteenshillings。
Nooneeverdeceivedthemexceptoneman;andasIbelievedthathewasafflictedwithaslightdegreeoftheinsanityofgreediness,IupheldthehonoroftheEnglishnamebypayinghisdebts。
AstheguidesofMrCummingwerefurnishedthroughmyinfluence,andusuallygotsomestrictchargesastotheirbehaviorbeforeparting,lookinguponmeinthelightofafather,theyalwayscametogivemeanaccountoftheirservice,andtoldmostofthosehuntingadventureswhichhavesincebeengiventotheworld,beforewehadthepleasureofhearingourfriendrelatethemhimselfbyourownfireside。
Ihadthusatolerablygoodopportunityoftestingtheiraccuracy,andIhavenohesitationinsayingthatforthosewholovethatsortofthingMrCumming’sbookconveysatruthfulideaofSouthAfricanhunting。
Somethingsinitrequireexplanation,butthenumbersofanimalssaidtohavebeenmetwithandkilledarebynomeansimprobable,consideringtheamountoflargegametheninthecountry。
Twoothergentlemenhuntinginthesameregiondestroyedinoneseasonnofewerthanseventy-eightrhinocerosesaloneSportsmen,however,wouldnotnowfindanequalnumber,forasgunsareintroducedamongthetribesallthesefineanimalsmeltawaylikesnowinspring。
Inthemoreremotedistricts,wherefire-armshavenotyetbeenintroduced,withthesingleexceptionoftherhinoceros,thegameistobefoundinnumbersmuchgreaterthanMrCummingeversawThetsetseis,however,aninsuperablebarriertohuntingwithhorsesthere,andEuropeanscandonothingonfootThestepoftheelephantwhenchargingthehunter,thoughapparentlynotquick,issolongthatthepaceequalsthespeedofagoodhorseatacanterAyoungsportsman,nomatterhowgreatamongpheasants,foxes,andhounds,woulddowelltopausebeforeresolvingtobravefeverfortheexcitementofriskingsuchaterrificcharge;
thescreamortrumpetingofthisenormousbrutewheninfuriatedismorelikewhattheshriekofaFrenchsteam-whistlewouldbetoamanstandingonthedangerouspartofarail-roadthananyotherearthlysound:
ahorseunusedtoitwillsometimesstandshiveringinsteadoftakinghisrideroutofdangerIthashappenedoftenthatthepooranimal’slegsdotheirdutysobadlythathefallsandcauseshisridertobetroddenintoamummy;or,losinghispresenceofmind,theridermayallowthehorsetodashunderatreeandcrackhiscraniumagainstabranchAsonechargefromanelephanthasmadeembryoNimrodsbidafinaladieutothechase,incipientGordonCummingsmighttrytheirnervesbystandingonrailwaystilltheengineswerewithinafewyardsofthemHuntingelephantsonfootwouldbenotlessdangerous,*
unlesstheCeylonmodeofkillingthembyoneshotcouldbefollowed:
ithasneverbeentriedinAfrica。
*Sincewritingtheabovestatement,ithasreceivedconfirmationinthereporteddeathofMrWahlbergwhilehuntingelephantsonfootatLakeNgami。
AdvancingtosomewellsbeyondLetloche,ataspotnamedKanne,wefoundthemcarefullyhedgedroundbythepeopleofaBakalaharivillagesituatednearthespotWehadthensixtymilesofcountryinfrontwithoutwater,andverydistressingfortheoxen,asitisgenerallydeepsoftsandThereisonesucking-place,aroundwhichwerecongregatedgreatnumbersofBushwomenwiththeiregg-shellsandreeds。
Mathuluanenowcontainednowater,andMotlatsaonlyasmallsupply,sowesenttheoxenacrossthecountrytothedeepwellNkauane,andhalfwerelostonthewayWhenfoundatlasttheyhadbeenfivewholedayswithoutwaterVerylargenumbersofelandsweremetwithasusual,thoughtheyseldomcangetasipofdrink。
Manyoftheplainsherehavelargeexpansesofgrasswithouttrees,butyouseldomseeatreelesshorizonTheostrichisgenerallyseenquietlyfeedingonsomespotwherenoonecanapproachhimwithoutbeingdetectedbyhiswaryeyeAsthewagonmovesalongfartothewindwardhethinksitisintendingtocircumventhim,soherushesupamileorsofromtheleeward,andsoneartothefrontoxenthatonesometimesgetsashotatthesillybirdWhenhebeginstorunallthegameinsightfollowhisexampleIhaveseenthisfollytakenadvantageofwhenhewasfeedingquietlyinavalleyopenatbothends。
Anumberofmenwouldcommencerunning,asiftocutoffhisretreatfromtheendthroughwhichthewindcame;andalthoughhehadthewholecountryhundredsofmilesbeforehimbygoingtotheotherend,onhemadlyrushedtogetpastthemen,andsowasspearedHeneverswervesfromthecourseheonceadopts,butonlyincreaseshisspeed。
Whentheostrichisfeedinghispaceisfromtwentytotwenty-twoinches;
whenwalking,butnotfeeding,itistwenty-sixinches;
andwhenterrified,asinthecasenoticed,itisfromelevenandahalftothirteenandevenfourteenfeetinlengthOnlyinonecasewasIatallsatisfiedofbeingabletocounttherateofspeedbyastop-watch,and,ifIamnotmistaken,therewerethirtyintenseconds;
generallyone’seyecannomorefollowthelegsthanitcanthespokesofacarriage-wheelinrapidmotionIfwetaketheabovenumber,andtwelvefeetstrideastheaveragepace,wehaveaspeedoftwenty-sixmilesanhourItcannotbeverymuchabovethat,andisthereforeslowerthanarailwaylocomotiveTheyaresometimesshotbythehorsemanmakingacrosscuttotheirundeviatingcourse,butfewEnglishmeneversucceedinkillingthem。
Theostrichbeginstolayhereggsbeforeshehasfixedonaspotforanest,whichisonlyahollowafewinchesdeepinthesand,andaboutayardindiameterSolitaryeggs,namedbytheBechuanas“lesetla“,arethusfoundlyingforsakenalloverthecountry,andbecomeapreytothejackal。
Sheseemsaversetoriskingaspotforanest,andoftenlayshereggsinthatofanotherostrich,sothatasmanyasforty-fivehavebeenfoundinonenestSomeeggscontainsmallconcretionsofthematterwhichformstheshell,asoccursalsointheeggofthecommonfowl:
thishasgivenrisetotheideaofstonesintheeggsBothmaleandfemaleassistintheincubations;butthenumbersoffemalesbeingalwaysgreatest,itisprobablethatcasesoccurinwhichthefemaleshavetheentirecharge。
Severaleggslieoutofthenest,andarethoughttobeintendedasfoodforthefirstofthenewly-hatchedbroodtilltherestcomeoutandenablethewholetostartinquestoffoodIhaveseveraltimesseennewly-hatchedyounginchargeofthecock,whomadeaverygoodattemptatappearinglameintheploverfashion,inordertodrawofftheattentionofpursuersTheyoungsquatdownandremainimmovablewhentoosmalltorunfar,butattainawonderfuldegreeofspeedwhenaboutthesizeofcommonfowlsItcannotbeassertedthatostrichesarepolygamous,thoughtheyoftenappeartobeso。
Whencaughttheyareeasilytamed,butareofnouseintheirdomesticatedstate。