Agreatmanyvillagesofthispoorandveryindustriouspeoplearesituatedonbothbanksoftheriver:theyareexperthuntersofthehippopotamiandotheranimals,andveryproficientinthemanufactureofarticlesofwoodandironThewholeofthispartofthecountrybeinginfestedwiththetsetse,theyareunabletoreardomesticanimals。
  ThismayhaveledtotheirskillinhandicraftworksSomemakelargewoodenvesselswithveryneatlids,andwoodenbowlsofallsizes;
  andsincetheideaofsittingonstoolshasenteredtheMakololomind,theyhaveshowngreattasteinthedifferentformsgiventothelegsofthesepiecesoffurniture。
  OtherBanyeti,orManyeti,astheyarecalled,makeneatandstrongbasketsofthesplitrootsofacertaintree,whileothersexcelinpotteryandiron。
  IcannotfindthattheyhaveeverbeenwarlikeIndeed,thewarsinthecentreofthecountry,wherenoslave-tradeexisted,haveseldombeenaboutanythingelsebutcattleSowellknownisthis,thatseveraltribesrefusetokeepcattlebecausetheytempttheirenemiestocomeandstealNevertheless,theyhavenoobjectiontoeatthemwhenoffered,andtheircountryadmitsofbeingwellstocked。
  Ihaveheardofbutonewarhavingoccurredfromanothercause。
  Threebrothers,Barolongs,foughtforthepossessionofawomanwhowasconsideredworthabattle,andthetribehasremainedpermanentlydividedeversince。
  Fromthebenduptothenorth,calledKatima-moleloIquenchedfire,thebedoftheriverisrocky,andthestreamrunsfast,formingasuccessionofrapidsandcataracts,whichpreventcontinuousnavigationwhenthewaterislowTherapidsarenotvisiblewhentheriverisfull,butthecataractsofNambwe,Bombwe,andKalemustalwaysbedangerousThefallateachoftheseisbetweenfourandsixfeet。
  ButthefallsofGonyepresentamuchmoreseriousobstacle。
  Therewewereobligedtotakethecanoesoutofthewater,andcarrythemmorethanamilebylandThefallisaboutthirtyfeet。
  Themainbodyofwater,whichcomesovertheledgeofrockwhentheriverislow,iscollectedintoaspaceseventyoreightyyardswidebeforeittakestheleap,and,amassofrockbeingthrustforwardagainsttheroaringtorrent,aloudsoundisproducedTraditionreportsthedestructioninthisplaceoftwohippopotamus-hunters,who,over-eagerinthepursuitofawoundedanimal,were,withtheirintendedprey,drawndownintothefrightfulgulfThereisalsoatraditionofaman,evidentlyofasuperiormind,wholefthisowncountrymen,theBarotse,andcamedowntheriver,tookadvantageofthefalls,andledoutaportionofthewaterthereforirrigationSuchmindsmusthavearisenfromtimetotimeintheseregions,aswellasinourowncountry,but,ignorantoftheuseofletters,theyhaveleftnomemorialbehindthem。
  Wedugoutsomeofaninferiorkindofpotato`Sisinyane’fromhisgarden,forwhenonceplanteditneverdiesoutThisrootisbitterandwaxy,thoughitiscultivatedItwasnotinflower,soIcannotsaywhetheritisasolanaceousplantornotOneneverexpectstofindagravenorastoneofremembrancesetupinAfrica;theveryrocksareilliterate,theycontainsofewfossilsThosehereareofreddishvariegated,hardenedsandstone,withmadreporeholesinitThis,andbroadhorizontalstrataoftrap,sometimesahundredmilesinextent,andeachlayerhavinganinchorsoofblacksiliciousmatteronit,asifithadfloatedtherewhileinastateoffusion,formagreatpartofthebottomofthecentralvalleyTheserocks,inthesouthernpartofthecountryespecially,areoftencoveredwithtwelveorfifteenfeetofsoftcalcareoustufaAtBombwewehavethesametrap,withradiatedzeolite,probablymesotype,anditagainappearsattheconfluenceoftheChobe,fartherdown。
  Aswepasseduptheriver,thedifferentvillagesofBanyetiturnedouttopresentSekeletuwithfoodandskins,astheirtribute。
  OnelargevillageisplacedatGonye,theinhabitantsofwhicharerequiredtoassisttheMakololotocarrytheircanoespastthefalls。
  Thetsetseherelightedonuseveninthemiddleofthestream。
  Thiswecrossedrepeatedly,inordertomakeshortcutsatbendsoftheriver。
  Thecourseis,however,remarkablystraightamongtherocks;
  andheretheriverisshallow,onaccountofthegreatbreadthofsurfacewhichitcoversWhenwecametoabout16d16’Slatitude,thehighwoodedbanksseemedtoleavetheriver,andnomoretsetseappeared。
  Viewedfromtheflat,reedybasininwhichtheriverthenflowed,thebanksseemedprolongedintoridges,ofthesamewoodedcharacter,twoorthreehundredfeethigh,andstretchedawaytotheN。N。EandN。N。W。
  untiltheyweretwentyorthirtymilesapartTheinterveningspace,nearlyonehundredmilesinlength,withtheLeeambyewindinggentlynearthemiddle,isthetrueBarotsevalleyItbearsacloseresemblancetothevalleyoftheNile,andisinundatedannually,notbyrains,butbytheLeeambye,exactlyasLowerEgyptisfloodedbytheNile。
  ThevillagesoftheBarotsearebuiltonmounds,someofwhicharesaidtohavebeenraisedartificiallybySanturu,aformerchiefoftheBarotse,andduringtheinundationthewholevalleyassumestheappearanceofalargelake,withthevillagesonthemoundslikeislands,justasoccursinEgyptwiththevillagesoftheEgyptians。
  Someportionofthewatersofinundationcomesfromthenorthwest,wheregreatfloodingsalsooccur,butmorecomesfromthenorthandnortheast,descendingthebedoftheLeeambyeitselfTherearebutfewtreesinthisvalley:thosewhichstandonthemoundswerenearlyalltransplantedbySanturuforshadeThesoilisextremelyfertile,andthepeopleareneverinwantofgrain,for,bytakingadvantageofthemoistureoftheinundation,theycantaketwocropsayear。
  TheBarotsearestronglyattachedtothisfertilevalley;theysay,“Herehungerisnotknown。”Therearesomanythingsbesidescornwhichamancanfindinitforfood,thatitisnowondertheydesertfromLinyantitoreturntothisplace。
  Thegreatvalleyisnotputtoatitheoftheuseitmightbe。
  Itiscoveredwithcoarsesucculentgrasses,whichaffordamplepasturageforlargeherdsofcattle;thesethrivewonderfully,andgivemilkcopiouslytotheirownersWhenthevalleyisflooded,thecattlearecompelledtoleaveitandgotothehigherlands,wheretheyfalloffincondition;
  theirreturnisatimeofjoy。
  Itisimpossibletosaywhetherthisvalley,whichcontainssomuchmoisture,wouldraisewheatasthevalleyoftheNiledoesItisprobablytoorich,andwouldmakecornrunentirelytostraw,foronespeciesofgrasswasobservedtwelvefeethigh,withastemasthickasaman’sthumb。
  Atpresentthepasturageisnevereatenoff,thoughtheMakololopossessimmenseherdsofcattle。
  Therearenolargetowns,themoundsonwhichthetownsandvillagesarebuiltbeingallsmall,andthepeoplerequiretoliveapartonaccountoftheircattle。
  ThisvisitwasthefirstSekeletuhadmadetothesepartssinceheattainedthechieftainshipThosewhohadtakenpartwithMpepewereconsequentlyingreatterrorWhenwecametothetownofMpepe’sfather,asheandanothermanhadcounseledMamochisanetoputSekeletutodeathandmarryMpepe,thetwowereledforthandtossedintotheriver。
  NokuanewasagainoneoftheexecutionersWhenIremonstratedagainsthumanbloodbeingshedintheoffhandwayinwhichtheywereproceeding,thecounselorsjustifiedtheiractsbytheevidencegivenbyMamochisane,andcalmlyadded,“YouseewearestillBoers;wearenotyettaught。”
  MpepehadgivenfullpermissiontotheMambarislave-dealerstotradeinalltheBatokaandBashukulompovillagestotheeastofthis。
  Hehadgiventhemcattle,ivory,andchildren,andhadreceivedinreturnalargeblunderbusstobemountedasacannonWhentheslightcircumstanceofmyhavingcoveredthebodyofthechiefwithmyownderangedthewholeconspiracy,theMambari,intheirstockade,wereplacedinveryawkwardcircumstancesItwasproposedtoattackthemanddrivethemoutofthecountryatonce;but,dreadingacommencementofhostilities,Iurgedthedifficultiesofthatcourse,andshowedthatastockadedefendedbyperhapsfortymusketswouldbeaveryseriousaffair。
  “Hungerisstrongenoughforthat。”saidanunder-chief;
  “averygreatfellowishe。”Theythoughtofattackingthembystarvation。
  Asthechiefsufferersincaseofsuchanattackwouldhavebeenthepoorslaveschainedingangs,Iintercededforthem,andtheresultofanintercessionofwhichtheywereignorantwasthattheywereallowedtodepartinpeace。
  Naliele,thecapitaloftheBarotse,isbuiltonamoundwhichwasconstructedartificiallybySanturu,andwashisstore-houseforgrain。
  Hisowncapitalstoodaboutfivehundredyardstothesouthofthat,inwhatisnowthebedoftheriverAllthatremainsofthelargestmoundinthevalleyareafewcubicyardsofearth,toerectwhichcostthewholeofthepeopleofSanturuthelaborofmanyyears。
  Thesamethinghashappenedtoanotherancientsiteofatown,Linangelo,alsoontheleftbankItwouldseem,therefore,thattheriverinthispartofthevalleymustbewearingeastward。
  Nogreatriseoftheriverisrequiredtosubmergethewholevalley;
  ariseoftenfeetabovethepresentlow-watermarkwouldreachthehighestpointiteverattains,asseeninthemarkingsofthebankonwhichstoodSanturu’sancientcapital,andtwoorthreefeetmorewoulddelugeallthevillagesThisneverhappens,thoughthewatersometimescomessonearthefoundationsofthehutsthatthepeoplecannotmoveoutsidethewallsofreedswhichencircletheirvillages。
  WhentheriveriscompressedamongthehighrockybanksnearGonye,itrisessixtyfeet。
  Theinfluenceofthepartialobstructionitmeetswiththereisseeninthemorewindingcourseoftherivernorthof16Deg。;
  andwhentheswellgetspastKatima-molelo,itspreadsoutonthelandsonbothbankstowardSesheke。
  Santuru,atwhoseancientgranarywearestaying,wasagreathunter,andveryfondoftamingwildanimalsHispeople,awareofhistaste,broughttohimeveryyoungantelopetheycouldcatch,and,amongotherthings,twoyounghippopotamiTheseanimalsgamboledintheriverbyday,butneverfailedtoremembertocomeuptoNalielefortheirsuppersofmilkandmealTheywerethewonderofthecountry,tillastranger,happeningtocometovisitSanturu,sawthemreclininginthesun,andspearedoneofthemonthesuppositionthatitwaswild。
  ThesameunluckyaccidenthappenedtooneofthecatsIhadbroughttoSekeletuAstranger,seeingananimalhehadneverviewedbefore,killedit,andbroughtthetrophytothechief,thinkingthathehadmadeaveryremarkablediscovery;wetherebylostthebreedofcats,ofwhich,fromtheswarmsofmice,westoodingreatneed。
  OnmakinginquiriestoascertainwhetherSanturu,theMoloiana,hadeverbeenvisitedbywhitemen,Icouldfindnovestigeofanysuchvisit;*
  thereisnoevidenceofanyofSanturu’speoplehavingeverseenawhitemanbeforethearrivalofMrOswellandmyselfin1851Thepeoplehave,itistrue,nowrittenrecords;butanyremarkableeventhereiscommemoratedinnames,aswasobservedbyParktobethecaseinthecountrieshetraversedTheyearofourarrivalisdignifiedbythenameoftheyearwhenthewhitemencame,orofSebituane’sdeath;
  buttheyprefertheformer,astheyavoid,ifpossible,anydirectreferencetothedepartedAftermywife’sfirstvisit,greatnumbersofchildrenwerenamedMa-Robert,ormotherofRobert,hereldestchild;
  otherswerenamedGun,Horse,Wagon,Monare,Jesus,etc。;
  butthoughournames,andthoseofthenativePortuguesewhocamein1853,wereadopted,thereisnotatraceofanythingofthesorthavinghappenedpreviouslyamongtheBarotse:thevisitofawhitemanissucharemarkableevent,that,hadanytakenplaceduringthelastthreehundredyears,theremusthaveremainedsometraditionofit。