Thepresenceofthesematlametlointhedesertinatimeofdroughtwasratheradisappointment,forIhadbeenaccustomedtosupposethatthenotewasalwaysemittedbythemwhentheywerechin-deepinwater。
Theirmusicwasalwaysregardedinotherspotsasthemostpleasantsoundthatmettheearaftercrossingportionsofthethirstydesert;
andIcouldfullyappreciatethesympathyfortheseanimalsshownbyAesop,himselfanAfrican,inhisfableofthe“BoysandtheFrogs“。
ItisremarkablethatattemptshavenotbeenmadetoanyextenttodomesticatesomeofthenobleandusefulcreaturesofAfricainEngland。
Theeland,whichisthemostmagnificentofallantelopes,wouldgracetheparksofournobilitymorethandeerThisanimal,fromtheexcellenceofitsflesh,wouldbeappropriatetoourowncountry;
andasthereisalsoasplendidesculentfrognearlyaslargeasachicken,itwouldnodoubttendtoperpetuatethepresentallianceifwemadeagiftofthattoFrance。
Thescavengerbeetleisoneofthemostusefulofallinsects,asiteffectuallyanswerstheobjectindicatedbythename。
Wheretheyabound,asatKuruman,thevillagesaresweetandclean,fornosoonerareanimalexcretionsdroppedthan,attractedbythescent,thescavengersareheardcomingboomingupthewindTheyrollawaythedroppingsofcattleatonce,inroundpiecesoftenaslargeasbilliard-balls;andwhentheyreachaplaceproperbyitssoftnessforthedepositoftheireggsandthesafetyoftheiryoung,theydigthesoiloutfrombeneaththeballtilltheyhavequiteletitdownandcoveredit:theythenlaytheireggswithinthemass。
Whilethelarvaearegrowing,theydevourtheinsideoftheballbeforecomingabovegroundtobegintheworldforthemselves。
ThebeetleswiththeirgiganticballslooklikeAtlaswiththeworldonhisback;onlytheygobackward,and,withtheirheadsdown,pushwiththehindlegs,asifaboyshouldrollasnow-ballwithhislegswhilestandingonhisheadAswerecommendtheelandtoJohnBull,andthegiganticfrogtoFrance,wecanconfidentlyrecommendthisbeetletothedirtyItaliantownsandourownSanitaryCommissioners。
IntryingtobenefitthetribeslivingundertheBoersoftheCashanMountains,ItwiceperformedajourneyofaboutthreehundredmilestotheeastwardofKolobengSechelehadbecomesoobnoxioustotheBoersthat,thoughanxioustoaccompanymeinmyjourney,hedarednottrusthimselfamongthemThisdidnotarisefromthecrimeofcattle-stealing;forthatcrime,socommonamongtheCaffres,wasneverchargedagainsthistribe,nor,indeed,againstanyBechuanatribe。
Itis,infact,unknowninthecountry,exceptduringactualwarfare。
HisindependenceandloveoftheEnglishwerehisonlyfaults。
Inmylastjourneythere,ofabouttwohundredmiles,onpartingattheRiverMarikwehegavemetwoservants,“tobe。”ashesaid,“hisarmstoserveme。”andexpressedregretthathecouldnotcomehimself“Supposewewentnorth。”Isaid,“wouldyoucome?”
HethentoldmethestoryofSebituanehavingsavedhislife,andexpatiatedonthefar-famedgenerosityofthatreallygreatman。
ThiswasthefirsttimeIhadthoughtofcrossingtheDeserttoLakeNgami。
TheconductoftheBoers,who,aswillberemembered,hadsentaletterdesignedtoprocuremyremovaloutofthecountry,andtheirwell-knownsettledpolicywhichIhavealreadydescribed,becamemorefullydevelopedonthisthanonanyformeroccasion。
WhenIspoketoMrHendrickPotgeiterofthedangerofhinderingtheGospelofChristamongthesepoorsavages,hebecamegreatlyexcited,andcalledoneofhisfollowerstoanswermeHethreatenedtoattackanytribethatmightreceiveanativeteacher,yethepromisedtousehisinfluencetopreventthoseunderhimfromthrowingobstaclesinourwayIcouldperceiveplainlythatnothingmorecouldbedoneinthatdirection,soIcommencedcollectingalltheinformationIcouldaboutthedesert,withtheintentionofcrossingit,ifpossible。
Sekomi,thechiefoftheBamangwato,wasacquaintedwitharoutewhichhekeptcarefullytohimself,becausetheLakecountryaboundedinivory,andhedrewlargequantitiesthenceperiodicallyatbutsmallcosttohimself。
Sechele,whovaluedhighlyeverythingEuropean,andwasalwaysfullyalivetohisowninterest,wasnaturallyanxioustogetashareofthatinvitingfieldHewasmostanxioustovisitSebituanetoo,partly,perhaps,fromawishtoshowoffhisnewacquirements,butchiefly,Ibelieve,fromhavingveryexaltedideasofthebenefitshewouldderivefromtheliberalityofthatrenownedchieftain。
InageandfamilySecheleistheelderandsuperiorofSekomi;
forwhentheoriginaltribebrokeupintoBamangwato,Bangwaketse,andBakwains,theBakwainsretainedthehereditarychieftainship;
sotheirchief,Sechele,possessescertainadvantagesoverSekomi,thechiefoftheBamangwatoIfthetwoweretravelingorhuntingtogether,Sechelewouldtake,byright,theheadsofthegameshotbySekomi。
Thereareseveralvestiges,besides,ofveryancientpartitionsandlordshipsoftribesTheelderbrotherofSechele’sfather,becomingblind,gaveoverthechieftainshiptoSechele’sfather。
ThedescendantsofthismanpaynotributetoSechele,thoughheistheactualruler,andsuperiortotheheadofthatfamily;
andSechele,whileineveryotherrespectsupreme,callshimKosi,orChief。
TheothertribeswillnotbegintoeattheearlypumpkinsofanewcropuntiltheyhearthattheBahurutsehave“bittenit“,andthereisapublicceremonyontheoccasionthesonofthechiefbeingthefirsttotasteofthenewharvest。
Sechele,bymyadvice,sentmentoSekomi,askingleaveformetopassalonghispath,accompanyingtherequestwiththepresentofanox。
Sekomi’smother,whopossessesgreatinfluenceoverhim,refusedpermission,becauseshehadnotbeenpropitiatedThisproducedafreshmessage;
andthemosthonorablemanintheBakwaintribe,nexttoSechele,wassentwithanoxforbothSekomiandhismotherThis,too,wasmetbyrefusal。
Itwassaid,“TheMatebele,themortalenemiesoftheBechuanas,areinthedirectionofthelake,and,shouldtheykillthewhiteman,weshallincurgreatblamefromallhisnation。”
TheexactpositionoftheLakeNgamihad,forhalfacenturyatleast,beencorrectlypointedoutbythenatives,whohadvisiteditwhenrainsweremorecopiousintheDesertthaninmorerecenttimes,andmanyattemptshadbeenmadetoreachitbypassingthroughtheDesertinthedirectionindicated;butitwasfoundimpossible,evenforGriquas,who,havingsomeBushmanbloodinthem,maybesupposedmorecapableofenduringthirstthanEuropeans。
Itwasclear,then,thatouronlychanceofsuccesswasbygoinground,insteadofthrough,theDesertThebesttimefortheattemptwouldhavebeenabouttheendoftherainyseason,inMarchorApril,forthenweshouldhavebeenlikelytomeetwithpoolsofrain-water,whichalwaysdryupduringtherainlesswinterIcommunicatedmyintentiontoanAfricantraveler,ColonelSteele,thenaid-de-camptotheMarquisofTweedaleatMadras,andhemadeitknowntotwoothergentlemen,whosefriendshipwehadgainedduringtheirAfricantravel,namely,MajorVardonandMrOswellAllofthesegentlemenweresoenamoredwithAfricanhuntingandAfricandiscoverythatthetwoformermusthaveenviedthelatterhisgoodfortuneinbeingabletoleaveIndiatoundertakeafreshthepleasuresandpainsofdesertlife。
IbelieveMrOswellcamefromhishighpositionataveryconsiderablepecuniarysacrifice,andwithnootherendinviewbuttoextendtheboundariesofgeographicalknowledgeBeforeIknewofhiscoming,IhadarrangedthatthepaymentfortheguidesfurnishedbySecheleshouldbetheloanofmywagon,tobringbackwhateverivoryhemightobtainfromthechiefatthelakeWhen,atlast,MrOswellcame,bringingMrMurraywithhim,heundertooktodefraytheentireexpensesoftheguides,andfullyexecutedhisgenerousintention。
Sechelehimselfwouldhavecomewithus,but,fearingthatthemuch-talked-ofassaultoftheBoersmighttakeplaceduringourabsence,andblamebeattachedtomefortakinghimaway,IdissuadedhimagainstitbysayingthatheknewMrOswell“wouldbeasdeterminedashimselftogetthroughtheDesert。”
Beforenarratingtheincidentsofthisjourney,ImaygivesomeaccountofthegreatKalahariDesert,inorderthatthereadermayunderstandinsomedegreethenatureofthedifficultieswehadtoencounter。
ThespacefromtheOrangeRiverinthesouth,lat29Degrees,toLakeNgamiinthenorth,andfromabout24Degreeseastlong。
tonearthewestcoast,hasbeencalledadesertsimplybecauseitcontainsnorunningwater,andverylittlewaterinwells。
Itisbynomeansdestituteofvegetationandinhabitants,foritiscoveredwithgrassandagreatvarietyofcreepingplants;
besideswhichtherearelargepatchesofbushes,andeventrees。
Itisremarkablyflat,butinteresectedindifferentpartsbythebedsofancientrivers;andprodigiousherdsofcertainantelopes,whichrequirelittleornowater,roamoverthetracklessplains。
Theinhabitants,BushmenandBakalahari,preyonthegameandonthecountlessrodentiaandsmallspeciesofthefelineracewhichsubsistontheseIngeneral,thesoilislight-coloredsoftsand,nearlypuresilicaThebedsoftheancientriverscontainmuchalluvialsoil;andasthatisbakedhardbytheburningsun,rain-waterstandsinpoolsinsomeofthemforseveralmonthsintheyear。
Thequantityofgrasswhichgrowsonthisremarkableregionisastonishing,eventothosewhoarefamiliarwithIndiaItusuallyrisesintuftswithbarespacesbetween,ortheintervalsareoccupiedbycreepingplants,which,havingtheirrootsburiedfarbeneaththesoil,feellittletheeffectsofthescorchingsunThenumberofthesewhichhavetuberousrootsisverygreat;andtheirstructureisintendedtosupplynutrimentandmoisture,when,duringthelongdroughts,theycanbeobtainednowhereelseHerewehaveanexampleofaplant,notgenerallytuber-bearing,becomingsoundercircumstanceswherethatappendageisnecessarytoactasareservoirforpreservingitslife;
andthesamethingoccursinAngolatoaspeciesofgrape-bearingvine,whichissofurnishedforthesamepurposeTheplanttowhichIatpresentreferisoneofthecucurbitaceae,whichbearsasmall,scarlet-colored,eatablecucumberAnotherplant,namedLeroshua,isablessingtotheinhabitantsoftheDesertWeseeasmallplantwithlinearleaves,andastalknotthickerthanacrow’squill;
ondiggingdownafootoreighteeninchesbeneath,wecometoatuber,oftenaslargeastheheadofayoungchild;whentherindisremoved,wefindittobeamassofcellulartissue,filledwithfluidmuchlikethatinayoungturnipOwingtothedepthbeneaththesoilatwhichitisfound,itisgenerallydeliciouslycoolandrefreshing。
Anotherkind,namedMokuri,isseeninotherpartsofthecountry,wherelong-continuedheatparchesthesoilThisplantisanherbaceouscreeper,anddepositsundergroundanumberoftubers,someaslargeasaman’shead,atspotsinacircleayardormore,horizontally,fromthestemThenativesstrikethegroundonthecircumferenceofthecirclewithstones,till,byhearingadifferenceofsound,theyknowthewater-bearingtubertobebeneath。
Theythendigdownafootorso,andfindit。
ButthemostsurprisingplantoftheDesertisthe“KengweorKeme“
`Cucumiscaffer’,thewatermelonInyearswhenmorethantheusualquantityofrainfalls,vasttractsofthecountryareliterallycoveredwiththesemelons;thiswasthecaseannuallywhenthefallofrainwasgreaterthanitisnow,andtheBakwainssenttradingpartieseveryyeartothelakeIthappenscommonlyonceeverytenorelevenyears,andforthelastthreetimesitsoccurrencehascoincidedwithanextraordinarilywetseasonThenanimalsofeverysortandname,includingman,rejoiceintherichsupplyTheelephant,truelordoftheforest,revelsinthisfruit,andsodothedifferentspeciesofrhinoceros,althoughnaturallysodiverseintheirchoiceofpastureThevariouskindsofantelopesfeedonthemwithequalavidity,andlions,hyaenas,jackals,andmice,allseemtoknowandappreciatethecommonblessingThesemelonsarenot,however,allofthemeatable;somearesweet,andotherssobitterthatthewholearenamedbytheBoersthe“bitterwatermelon“。
Thenativesselectthembystrikingonemelonafteranotherwithahatchet,andapplyingthetonguetothegashesTheythusreadilydistinguishbetweenthebitterandsweetThebitteraredeleterious,butthesweetarequitewholesomeThispeculiarityofonespeciesofplantbearingbothsweetandbitterfruitsoccursalsoinared,eatablecucumber,oftenmetwithinthecountryItisaboutfourincheslong,andaboutaninchandahalfindiameterItisofabrightscarletcolorwhenripeManyarebitter,othersquitesweetEvenmelonsinagardenmaybemadebitterbyafewbitterkengweinthevicinity。