CHAPTERI
  FROMMISSMIRANDAMOPE,INPARIS,TOMRS。ABRAHAMC。MOPE,ATBANGOR,MAINE。
  September5th,1879。
  Mydearmother——IhavekeptyoupostedasfarasTuesdayweeklast,and,althoughmyletterwillnothavereachedyouyet,Iwillbeginanotherbeforemynewsaccumulatestoomuch。Iamgladyoushowmylettersroundinthefamily,forIlikethemalltoknowwhatIamdoing,andIcan’twritetoeveryone,thoughItrytoanswerallreasonableexpectations。Butthereareagreatmanyunreasonableones,asIsupposeyouknow——notyours,dearmother,forIamboundtosaythatyouneverrequiredofmemorethanwasnatural。Youseeyouarereapingyourreward:IwritetoyoubeforeIwritetoanyoneelse。
  Thereisonething,Ihope——thatyoudon’tshowanyofmyletterstoWilliamPlatt。Ifhewantstoseeanyofmyletters,heknowstherightwaytogotowork。Iwouldn’thavehimseeoneoftheseletters,writtenforcirculationinthefamily,foranythingintheworld。Ifhewantsoneforhimself,hehasgottowritetomefirst。
  Lethimwritetomefirst,andthenIwillseeaboutansweringhim。
  Youcanshowhimthisifyoulike;butifyoushowhimanythingmore,Iwillneverwritetoyouagain。
  ItoldyouinmylastaboutmyfarewelltoEngland,mycrossingtheChannel,andmyfirstimpressionsofParis。IhavethoughtagreatdealaboutthatlovelyEnglandsinceIleftit,andallthefamoushistoricscenesIvisited;butIhavecometotheconclusionthatitisnotacountryinwhichIshouldcaretoreside。Thepositionofwomandoesnotseemtomeatallsatisfactory,andthatisapoint,youknow,onwhichIfeelverystrongly。ItseemstomethatinEnglandtheyplayaveryfaded—outpart,andthosewithwhomI
  conversedhadakindofdepressedandhumiliatedtone;alittledull,tamelook,asiftheywereusedtobeingsnubbedandbullied,whichmademewanttogivethemagoodshaking。Thereareagreatmanypeople——andagreatmanythings,too——overherethatIshouldliketoperformthatoperationupon。Ishouldliketoshakethestarchoutofsomeofthem,andthedustoutoftheothers。IknowfiftygirlsinBangorthatcomemuchmoreuptomynotionofthestandatrulynoblewomanshouldtake,thanthoseyoungladiesinEngland。Buttheyhadamostlovelywayofspeaking(inEngland),andthemenareREMARKABLYHANDSOME。(YoucanshowthistoWilliamPlatt,ifyoulike。)
  IgaveyoumyfirstimpressionsofParis,whichquitecameuptomyexpectations,muchasIhadheardandreadaboutit。Theobjectsofinterestareextremelynumerous,andtheclimateisremarkablycheerfulandsunny。Ishouldsaythepositionofwomanherewasconsiderablyhigher,thoughbynomeanscominguptotheAmericanstandard。Themannersofthepeopleareinsomerespectsextremelypeculiar,andIfeelatlastthatIamindeedinFOREIGNPARTS。Itis,however,atrulyelegantcity(verysuperiortoNewYork),andI
  havespentagreatdealoftimeinvisitingthevariousmonumentsandpalaces。Iwon’tgiveyouanaccountofallmywanderings,thoughI
  havebeenmostindefatigable;forIamkeeping,asItoldyoubefore,amostEXHAUSTIVEjournal,whichIwillallowyouthePRIVILEGEofreadingonmyreturntoBangor。Iamgettingonremarkablywell,andImustsayIamsometimessurprisedatmyuniversalgoodfortune。Itonlyshowswhatalittleenergyandcommon—sensewillaccomplish。I
  havediscoverednoneoftheseobjectionstoayoungladytravellinginEuropebyherselfofwhichweheardsomuchbeforeIleft,andI
  don’texpectIevershall,forIcertainlydon’tmeantolookforthem。IknowwhatIwant,andIalwaysmanagetogetit。
  Ihavereceivedagreatdealofpoliteness——someofitreallymostpressing,andIhaveexperiencednodrawbackswhatever。Ihavemadeagreatmanypleasantacquaintancesintravellinground(bothladiesandgentlemen),andhadagreatmanymostinterestingtalks。Ihavecollectedagreatdealofinformation,forwhichIreferyoutomyjournal。Iassureyoumyjournalisgoingtobeasplendidthing。I
  dojustexactlyasIdoinBangor,andIfindIdoperfectlyright;
  andatanyrate,Idon’tcareifIdon’t。Ididn’tcometoEuropetoleadamerelyconventionallife;IcoulddothatatBangor。YouknowIneverWOULDdoitatBangor,soitisn’tlikelyIamgoingtomakemyselfmiserableoverhere。SolongasIaccomplishwhatIdesire,andmakemymoneyholdout,Ishallregardthethingasasuccess。
  SometimesIfeelratherlonely,especiallyintheevening;butI
  generallymanagetointerestmyselfinsomethingorinsomeone。IntheeveningIusuallyreadupabouttheobjectsofinterestIhavevisitedduringtheday,orIpostupmyjournal。SometimesIgotothetheatre;orelseIplaythepianointhepublicparlour。Thepublicparlouratthehotelisn’tmuch;butthepianoisbetterthanthatfearfuloldthingattheSebagoHouse。SometimesIgodownstairsandtalktotheladywhokeepsthebooks——aFrenchlady,whoisremarkablypolite。Sheisverypretty,andalwayswearsablackdress,withthemostbeautifulfit;shespeaksalittleEnglish;shetellsmeshehadtolearnitinordertoconversewiththeAmericanswhocomeinsuchnumberstothishotel。ShehasgivenmeagreatdealofinformationaboutthepositionofwomaninFrance,andmuchofitisveryencouraging。ButshehastoldmeatthesametimesomethingsthatIshouldnotliketowritetoyou(Iamhesitatingevenaboutputtingthemintomyjournal),especiallyifmylettersaretobehandedroundinthefamily。IassureyoutheyappeartotalkaboutthingsherethatweneverthinkofmentioningatBangor,orevenofthinkingabout。Sheseemstothinkshecantellmeeverything,becauseItoldherIwastravellingforgeneralculture。Well,IDOwanttoknowsomuchthatitseemssometimesasifIwantedtoknoweverything;andyettherearesomethingsthatI
  thinkIdon’twanttoknow。But,asageneralthing,everythingisintenselyinteresting;Idon’tmeanonlyeverythingthatthisFrenchladytellsme,buteverythingIseeandhearformyself。IfeelreallyasifIshouldgainallIdesire。
  ImeetagreatmanyAmericans,who,asageneralthing,Imustsay,arenotaspolitetomeasthepeopleoverhere。Thepeopleoverhere——especiallythegentlemen——aremuchmorewhatIshouldcallATTENTIVE。Idon’tknowwhetherAmericansaremoreSINCERE;I
  haven’tyetmadeupmymindaboutthat。TheonlydrawbackI
  experienceiswhenAmericanssometimesexpresssurprisethatIshouldbetravellingroundalone;soyouseeitdoesn’tcomefromEuropeans。
  Ialwayshavemyanswerready;"Forgeneralculture,toacquirethelanguages,andtoseeEuropeformyself;"andthatgenerallyseemstosatisfythem。Dearmother,mymoneyholdsoutverywell,anditIS
  realinteresting。
  CHAPTERII
  FROMTHESAMETOTHESAME。
  September16th。
  SinceIlastwrotetoyouIhaveleftthathotel,andcometoliveinaFrenchfamily。It’sakindofboarding—housecombinedwithakindofschool;onlyit’snotlikeanAmericanhoarding—house,norlikeanAmericanschooleither。Therearefourorfivepeopleherethathavecometolearnthelanguage——nottotakelessons,buttohaveanopportunityforconversation。Iwasverygladtocometosuchaplace,forIhadbeguntorealisethatIwasnotmakingmuchprogresswiththeFrench。ItseemedtomethatIshouldfeelashamedtohavespenttwomonthsinParis,andnottohaveacquiredmoreinsightintothelanguage。IhadalwaysheardsomuchofFrenchconversation,andIfoundIwashavingnomoreopportunitytopractiseitthanifIhadremainedatBangor。Infact,IusedtohearagreatdealmoreatBangor,fromthoseFrenchCanadiansthatcamedowntocuttheice,thanIsawIshouldeverhearatthathotel。TheladythatkeptthebooksseemedtowantsomuchtotalktomeinEnglish(forthesakeofpractice,too,Isuppose),thatIcouldn’tbeartoletherknowI
  didn’tlikeit。ThechambermaidwasIrish,andallthewaiterswereGerman,sothatIneverheardawordofFrenchspoken。Isupposeyoumighthearagreatdealintheshops;only,asIdon’tbuyanything——
  Iprefertospendmymoneyforpurposesofculture——Idon’thavethatadvantage。
  Ihavebeenthinkingsomeoftakingateacher,butIamwellacquaintedwiththegrammaralready,andteachersalwayskeepyoubotheringovertheverbs。Iwasagooddealtroubled,forIfeltasifIdidn’twanttogoawaywithouthaving,atleast,gotageneralideaofFrenchconversation。Thetheatregivesyouagooddealofinsight,andasItoldyouinmylast,Igoagooddealtoplacesofamusement。Ifindnodifficultywhateveringoingtosuchplacesalone,andamalwaystreatedwiththepolitenesswhich,asItoldyoubefore,Iencountereverywhere。Iseeplentyofotherladiesalone(mostlyFrench),andtheygenerallyseemtobeenjoyingthemselvesasmuchasI。ButatthetheatreeveryonetalkssofastthatIcanscarcelymakeoutwhattheysay;and,besides,thereareagreatmanyvulgarexpressionswhichitisunnecessarytolearn。Butitwasthetheatre,nevertheless,thatputmeonthetrack。TheverynextdayafterIwrotetoyoulastIwenttothePalaisRoyal,whichisoneoftheprincipaltheatresinParis。Itisverysmall,butitisverycelebrated,andinmyguide—bookitismarkedwithTWOSTARS,whichisasignofimportanceattachedonlytoFIRST—CLASSobjectsofinterest。ButafterIhadbeentherehalfanhourIfoundIcouldn’tunderstandasinglewordoftheplay,theygabbleditoffsofast,andtheymadeuseofsuchpeculiarexpressions。Ifeltagooddealdisappointedandtroubled——IwasafraidIshouldn’tgainallIhadcomefor。ButwhileIwasthinkingitover——thinkingwhatISHOULD
  do——Iheardtwogentlementalkingbehindme。Itwasbetweentheacts,andIcouldn’thelplisteningtowhattheysaid。TheyweretalkingEnglish,butIguesstheywereAmericans。
  "Well,"saidoneofthem,"italldependsonwhatyouareafter。I’mFrench;that’swhatI’mafter。"
  "Well,"saidtheother,"I’mafterArt。"
  "Well,"saidthefirst,"I’mafterArttoo;butI’mafterFrenchmost。"
  Then,dearmother,Iamsorrytosaythesecondonesworealittle。
  Hesaid,"Oh,damnFrench!"
  "No,Iwon’tdamnFrench,"saidhisfriend。"I’llacquireit——that’swhatI’lldowithit。I’llgorightintoafamily。"
  "Whatfamily’llyougointo?"
  "IntosomeFrenchfamily。That’stheonlywaytodo——togotosomeplacewhereyoucantalk。Ifyou’reafterArt,youwanttosticktothegalleries;youwanttogorightthroughtheLouvre,roombyroom;
  youwanttotakearoomaday,orsomethingofthatsort。But,ifyouwanttoacquireFrench,thethingistolookoutforafamily。
  TherearelotsofFrenchfamiliesherethattakeyoutoboardandteachyou。Mysecondcousin——thatyoungladyItoldyouabout——shegotinwithacrowdlikethat,andtheybookedherrightupinthreemonths。Theyjusttookherrightinandtheytalkedtoher。That’swhattheydotoyou;theysetyourightdownandtheytalkATyou。
  You’vegottounderstandthem;youcan’thelpyourself。Thatfamilymycousinwaswithhasmovedawaysomewhere,orIshouldtryandgetinwiththem。Theywereverysmartpeople,thatfamily;aftersheleft,mycousincorrespondedwiththeminFrench。ButImeantofindsomeothercrowd,ifittakesalotoftrouble!
  Ilistenedtoallthiswithgreatinterest,andwhenhespokeabouthiscousinIwasonthepointofturningaroundtoaskhimtheaddressofthefamilythatshewaswith;butthenextmomenthesaidtheyhadmovedaway;soIsatstill。Theothergentleman,however,didn’tseemtobeaffectedinthesamewayasIwas。
  "Well,"hesaid,"youmayfollowupthatifyoulike;Imeantofollowupthepictures。Idon’tbelievethereisevergoingtobeanyconsiderabledemandintheUnitedStatesforFrench;butIcanpromiseyouthatinabouttenyearsthere’llbeabigdemandforArt!
  Anditwon’tbetemporaryeither。"
  Thatremarkmaybeverytrue,butIdon’tcareanythingaboutthedemand;IwanttoknowFrenchforitsownsake。Idon’twanttothinkIhavebeenallthiswhilewithouthavinggainedaninsight……Theverynextday,Iaskedtheladywhokeptthebooksatthehotelwhethersheknewofanyfamilythatcouldtakemetoboardandgivemethebenefitoftheirconversation。Sheinstantlythrewupherhands,withseverallittleshrillcries(intheirFrenchway,youknow),andtoldmethatherdearestfriendkeptaregularplaceofthatkind。IfshehadknownIwaslookingoutforsuchaplaceshewouldhavetoldmebefore;shehadnotspokenofitherself,becauseshedidn’twishtoinjurethehotelbybeingthecauseofmygoingaway。Shetoldmethiswasacharmingfamily,whohadoftenreceivedAmericanladies(andothersaswell)whowishedtofollowupthelanguage,andshewassureIshouldbedelightedwiththem。Soshegavemetheiraddress,andofferedtogowithmetointroduceme。
  ButIwasinsuchahurrythatIwentoffbymyself;andIhadnotroubleinfindingthesegoodpeople。Theyweredelightedtoreceiveme,andIwasverymuchpleasedwithwhatIsawofthem。Theyseemedtohaveplentyofconversation,andtherewillbenotroubleaboutthat。
  Icameheretostayaboutthreedaysago,andbythistimeIhaveseenagreatdealofthem。Thepriceofboardstruckmeasratherhigh;butImustrememberthataquantityofconversationisthrownin。Ihaveaveryprettylittleroom——withoutanycarpet,butwithsevenmirrors,twoclocks,andfivecurtains。IwasratherdisappointedafterIarrivedtofindthatthereareseveralotherAmericanshereforthesamepurposeasmyself。AtleasttherearethreeAmericansandtwoEnglishpeople;andalsoaGermangentleman。
  Iamafraid,therefore,ourconversationwillberathermixed,butI
  havenotyettimetojudge。ItrytotalkwithMadamedeMaisonrougeallIcan(sheistheladyofthehouse,andtheREALfamilyconsistsonlyofherselfandhertwodaughters)。Theyareallmostelegant,interestingwomen,andIamsureweshallbecomeintimatefriends。I
  willwriteyoumoreabouttheminmynext。TellWilliamPlattI
  don’tcarewhathedoes。
  CHAPTERIII
  FROMMISSVIOLETRAY,INPARIS,TOMISSAGNESRICH,INNEWYORK。
  September21st。
  WehadhardlygotherewhenfatherreceivedatelegramsayinghewouldhavetocomerightbacktoNewYork。Itwasforsomethingabouthisbusiness——Idon’tknowexactlywhat;youknowIneverunderstandthosethings,neverwantto。Wehadjustgotsettledatthehotel,insomecharmingrooms,andmotherandI,asyoumayimagine,weregreatlyannoyed。Fatherisextremelyfussy,asyouknow,andhisfirstidea,assoonashefoundheshouldhavetogoback,wasthatweshouldgobackwithhim。HedeclaredhewouldneverleaveusinParisalone,andthatwemustreturnandcomeoutagain。Idon’tknowwhathethoughtwouldhappentous;Isupposehethoughtweshouldbetooextravagant。It’sfather’stheorythatwearealwaysrunningupbills,whereasalittleobservationwouldshowhimthatwewearthesameoldRAGSFORMONTHS。Butfatherhasnoobservation;hehasnothingbuttheories。MotherandI,however,have,fortunately,agreatdealofPRACTICE,andwesucceededinmakinghimunderstandthatwewouldn’tbudgefromParis,andthatwewouldratherbechoppedintosmallpiecesthancrossthatdreadfuloceanagain。So,atlast,hedecidedtogobackalone,andtoleaveushereforthreemonths。But,toshowyouhowfussyheis,herefusedtoletusstayatthehotel,andinsistedthatweshouldgointoaFAMILY。Idon’tknowwhatputsuchanideaintohishead,unlessitwassomeadvertisementthathesawinoneoftheAmericanpapersthatarepublishedhere。
  TherearefamiliesherewhoreceiveAmericanandEnglishpeopletolivewiththem,underthepretenceofteachingthemFrench。Youmayimaginewhatpeopletheyare——Imeanthefamiliesthemselves。ButtheAmericanswhochoosethispeculiarmannerofseeingParismustbeactuallyjustasbad。MotherandIwerehorrified,anddeclaredthatmainforceshouldnotremoveusfromthehotel。Butfatherhasawayofarrivingathisendswhichismoreefficientthanviolence。Heworriesandfusses;he"nags,"asweusedtosayatschool;and,whenmotherandIarequitewornout,histriumphisassured。MotherisusuallywornoutmoreeasilythanI,andsheendsbysidingwithfather;sothat,atlast,whentheycombinetheirforcesagainstpoorlittleme,Ihavetosuccumb。Youshouldhaveheardthewayfatherwentonaboutthis"family"plan;hetalkedtoeveryonehesawaboutit;heusedtogoroundtothebanker’sandtalktothepeoplethere—
  —thepeopleinthepost—office;heusedtotryandexchangeideasaboutitwiththewaitersatthehotel。Hesaiditwouldbemoresafe,morerespectable,moreeconomical;thatIshouldperfectmyFrench;thatmotherwouldlearnhowaFrenchhouseholdisconducted;
  thatheshouldfeelmoreeasy,andfivehundredreasonsmore。Theywerenoneofthemgood,butthatmadenodifference。It’sallhumbug,histalkingabouteconomy,wheneveryoneknowsthatbusinessinAmericahascompletelyrecovered,thattheprostrationisallover,andthatimmensefortunesarebeingmade。Wehavebeeneconomisingforthelastfiveyears,andIsupposedwecameabroadtoreapthebenefitsofit。
  AsformyFrench,itisquiteasperfectasIwantittobe。(I
  assureyouIamoftensurprisedatmyownfluency,and,whenIgetalittlemorepracticeinthegendersandtheidioms,Ishalldoverywellinthisrespect。)Tomakealongstoryshort,however,fathercarriedhispoint,asusual;motherbaselydesertedmeatthelastmoment,and,afterholdingoutaloneforthreedays,Itoldthemtodowithmewhattheypleased!FatherlostthreesteamersinsuccessionbyremaininginParistoarguewithme。YouknowheisliketheschoolmasterinGoldsmith’s"DesertedVillage"——"e’enthoughvanquished,hewouldarguestill。"Heandmotherwenttolookatsomeseventeenfamilies(theyhadgottheaddressessomewhere),whileI
  retiredtomysofa,andwouldhavenothingtodowithit。Atlasttheymadearrangements,andIwastransportedtotheestablishmentfromwhichInowwriteyou。IwriteyoufromthebosomofaParisianmenage——fromthedepthsofasecond—rateboarding—house。
  FatheronlyleftParisafterhehadseenuswhathecallscomfortablysettledhere,andhadinformedMadamedeMaisonrouge(themistressoftheestablishment——theheadofthe"family")thathewishedmyFrenchpronunciationespeciallyattendedto。Thepronunciation,asithappens,isjustwhatIammostathomein;ifhehadsaidmygendersormyidiomstherewouldhavebeensomesense。Butpoorfatherhasnotact,andthisdefectisespeciallymarkedsincehehasbeeninEurope。Hewillbeabsent,however,forthreemonths,andmotherandIshallbreathemorefreely;thesituationwillbelessintense。I
  mustconfessthatwebreathemorefreelythanIexpected,inthisplace,wherewehavebeenforaboutaweek。Iwassure,beforewecame,thatitwouldprovetobeanestablishmentoftheLOWEST
  DESCRIPTION;butImustsaythat,inthisrespect,Iamagreeablydisappointed。TheFrencharesocleverthattheyknowevenhowtomanageaplaceofthiskind。Ofcourseitisverydisagreeabletolivewithstrangers,butas,afterall,ifIwerenotstayingwithMadamedeMaisonrougeIshouldnotbelivingintheFaubourgSt。
  Germain,Idon’tknowthatfromthepointofviewofexclusivenessitisanygreatlosstobehere。
  Ourroomsareveryprettilyarranged,andthetableisremarkablygood。Mammathinksthewholething——theplaceandthepeople,themannersandcustoms——veryamusing;butmammaisveryeasilyamused。
  Asforme,youknow,allthatIaskistobeletalone,andnottohavepeople’ssocietyforceduponme。Ihaveneverwantedforsocietyofmyownchoosing,and,solongasIretainpossessionofmyfaculties,Idon’tsupposeIevershall。AsIsaid,however,theplaceisverywellmanaged,andIsucceedindoingasIplease,which,youknow,ismymostcherishedpursuit。MadamedeMaisonrougehasagreatdealoftact——muchmorethanpoorfather。Sheiswhattheycallhereabellefemme,whichmeansthatsheisatall,uglywoman,withstyle。Shedressesverywell,andhasagreatdealoftalk;but,thoughsheisaverygoodimitationofalady,Ineverseeherbehindthedinner—table,intheevening,smilingandbowing,asthepeoplecomein,andlookingallthewhileatthedishesandtheservants,withoutthinkingofadamedecomptoirbloominginacornerofashoporarestaurant。Iamsurethat,inspiteofherfinename,shewasonceadamedecomptoir。Iamalsosurethat,inspiteofhersmilesandtheprettythingsshesaystoeveryone,shehatesusall,andwouldliketomurderus。Sheisahard,cleverFrenchwoman,whowouldliketoamuseherselfandenjoyherParis,andshemustbeboredtodeathatpassingallhertimeinthemidstofstupidEnglishpeoplewhomumblebrokenFrenchather。Somedayshewillpoisonthesouporthevinrouge;butIhopethatwillnotbeuntilaftermotherandIshallhavelefther。Shehastwodaughters,who,exceptthatoneisdecidedlypretty,aremeagreimitationsofherself。
  The"family,"fortherest,consistsaltogetherofourbelovedcompatriots,andofstillmorebelovedEnglanders。ThereisanEnglishmanhere,withhissister,andtheyseemtoberathernicepeople。Heisremarkablyhandsome,butexcessivelyaffectedandpatronising,especiallytousAmericans;andIhopetohaveachanceofbitinghisheadoffbeforelong。Thesisterisverypretty,and,apparently,verynice;but,incostume,sheisBritanniaincarnate。
  ThereisaverypleasantlittleFrenchman——whentheyarenicetheyarecharming——andaGermandoctor,abigblondeman,wholookslikeagreatwhitebull;andtwoAmericans,besidesmotherandme。OneofthemisayoungmanfromBoston,——anaestheticyoungman,whotalksaboutitsbeing"arealCorotday,"etc。,andayoungwoman——agirl,afemale,Idon’tknowwhattocallher——fromVermont,orMinnesota,orsomesuchplace。ThisyoungwomanisthemostextraordinaryspecimenofartlessYankeeismthatIeverencountered;sheisreallytoohorrible。IhavebeenthreetimestoClementineaboutyourunderskirt,etc。
  CHAPTERIV
  FROMLOUISLEVERETT,INPARIS,TOHARVARDTREMONT,INBOSTON。
  September25th。
  MydearHarvard——Ihavecarriedoutmyplan,ofwhichIgaveyouahintinmylast,andIonlyregretthatIshouldnothavedoneitbefore。Itishumannature,afterall,thatisthemostinterestingthingintheworld,anditonlyrevealsitselftothetrulyearnestseeker。Thereisawantofearnestnessinthatlifeofhotelsandrailroadtrains,whichsomanyofourcountrymenarecontenttoleadinthisstrangeOldWorld,andIwasdistressedtofindhowfarI,myself;hadbeenledalongthedusty,beatentrack。Ihad,however,constantlywantedtoturnasideintomoreunfrequentedways;toplungebeneaththesurfaceandseewhatIshoulddiscover。Buttheopportunityhadalwaysbeenmissing;somehow,Inevermeetthoseopportunitiesthatwehearaboutandreadabout——thethingsthathappentopeopleinnovelsandbiographies。AndyetIamalwaysonthewatchtotakeadvantageofanyopeningthatmaypresentitself;I
  amalwayslookingoutforexperiences,forsensations——Imightalmostsayforadventures。
  ThegreatthingistoLIVE,youknow——tofeel,tobeconsciousofone’spossibilities;nottopassthroughlifemechanicallyandinsensibly,likealetterthroughthepost—office。Therearetimes,mydearHarvard,whenIfeelasifIwerereallycapableofeverything——capabledetout,astheysayhere——ofthegreatestexcessesaswellasthegreatestheroism。Oh,tobeabletosaythatonehaslived——qu’onavecu,astheysayhere——thatideaexercisesanindefinableattractionforme。Youwill,perhaps,reply,itiseasytosayit;butthethingistomakepeoplebelieveyou!And,then,I
  don’twantanysecond—hand,spurioussensations;Iwanttheknowledgethatleavesatrace——thatleavesstrangescarsandstainsandreveriesbehindit!ButIamafraidIshockyou,perhapsevenfrightenyou。
  IfyourepeatmyremarkstoanyoftheWestCedarStreetcircle,besureyoutonethemdownasyourdiscretionwillsuggest。Foryourself;youwillknowthatIhavealwayshadanintensedesiretoseesomethingofREALFRENCHLIFE。YouareacquaintedwithmygreatsympathywiththeFrench;withmynaturaltendencytoenterintotheFrenchwayoflookingatlife。Isympathisewiththeartistictemperament;Irememberyouusedsometimestohinttomethatyouthoughtmyowntemperamenttooartistic。Idon’tthinkthatinBostonthereisanyrealsympathywiththeartistictemperament;wetendtomakeeverythingamatterofrightandwrong。AndinBostononecan’tLIVE——onnepeutpasvivre,astheysayhere。Idon’tmeanonecan’treside——foragreatmanypeoplemanagethat;butonecan’tliveaesthetically——Imayalmostventuretosay,sensuously。ThisiswhyIhavealwaysbeensomuchdrawntotheFrench,whoaresoaesthetic,sosensuous。IamsosorrythatTheophileGautierhaspassedaway;Ishouldhavelikedsomuchtogoandseehim,andtellhimallthatIowehim。HewaslivingwhenIwasherebefore;but,youknow,atthattimeIwastravellingwiththeJohnsons,whoarenotaesthetic,andwhousedtomakemefeelratherashamedofmyartistictemperament。IfIhadgonetoseethegreatapostleofbeauty,Ishouldhavehadtogoclandestinely——encachette,astheysayhere;andthatisnotmynature;Iliketodoeverythingfrankly,freely,naivement,augrandjour。Thatisthegreatthing——tobefree,tobefrank,tobenaif。Doesn’tMatthewArnoldsaythatsomewhere——orisitSwinburne,orPater?
  WhenIwaswiththeJohnsonseverythingwassuperficial;and,asregardslife,everythingwasbroughtdowntothequestionofrightandwrong。Theyweretoodidactic;artshouldneverbedidactic;andwhatislifebutanart?Paterhassaidthatsowell,somewhere。
  WiththeJohnsonsIamafraidIlostmanyopportunities;thetonewasgrayandcottony,Imightalmostsaywoolly。Butnow,asItellyou,Ihavedeterminedtotakerightholdformyself;tolookrightintoEuropeanlife,andjudgeitwithoutJohnsonianprejudices。IhavetakenupmyresidenceinaFrenchfamily,inarealParisianhouse。
  YouseeIhavethecourageofmyopinions;Idon’tshrinkfromcarryingoutmytheorythatthegreatthingistoLIVE。
  YouknowIhavealwaysbeenintenselyinterestedinBalzac,whonevershrankfromthereality,andwhosealmostLURIDpicturesofParisianlifehaveoftenhauntedmeinmywanderingsthroughtheoldwicked—
  lookingstreetsontheothersideoftheriver。Iamonlysorrythatmynewfriends——myFrenchfamily——donotliveintheoldcity——aucoeurduvieuxParis,astheysayhere。TheyliveonlyintheBoulevardHaussman,whichislesspicturesque;butinspiteofthistheyhaveagreatdealoftheBalzactone。MadamedeMaisonrougebelongstooneoftheoldestandproudestfamiliesinFrance;butshehashadreverseswhichhavecompelledhertoopenanestablishmentinwhichalimitednumberoftravellers,whoarewearyofthebeatentrack,whohavethesenseoflocalcolour——sheexplainsitherself;
  sheexpressesitsowell——inshort,toopenasortofboarding—house。
  Idon’tseewhyIshouldnot,afterall,usethatexpression,foritisthecorrelativeofthetermpensionbourgeoise,employedbyBalzacinthePereGoriot。DoyourememberthepensionbourgeoiseofMadameVauquerneedeConflans?Butthisestablishmentisnotatalllikethat:andindeeditisnotatallbourgeois;thereissomethingdistinguished,somethingaristocratic,aboutit。ThePensionVauquerwasdark,brown,sordid,graisseuse;butthisisinquiteadifferenttone,withhigh,clear,lightly—drapedwindows,tender,subtle,almostmorbid,colours,andfurnitureinelegant,studied,reed—likelines。MadamedeMaisonrougeremindsmeofMadameHulot——doyouremember"labelleMadameHulot?"——inLesBarentsPauvres。Shehasagreatcharm;alittleartificial,alittlefatigued,withalittlesuggestionofhiddenthingsinherlife;butIhavealwaysbeensensitivetothecharmoffatigue,ofduplicity。
  Iamratherdisappointed,Iconfess,inthesocietyIfindhere;itisnotsolocal,socharacteristic,asIcouldhavedesired。Indeed,totellthetruth,itisnotlocalatall;but,ontheotherhand,itiscosmopolitan,andthereisagreatadvantageinthat。WeareFrench,weareEnglish,weareAmerican,weareGerman;and,I
  believe,therearesomeRussiansandHungariansexpected。Iammuchinterestedinthestudyofnationaltypes;incomparing,contrasting,seizingthestrongpoints,theweakpoints,thepointofviewofeach。Itisinterestingtoshiftone’spointofview——toenterintostrange,exoticwaysoflookingatlife。
  TheAmericantypesherearenot,Iamsorrytosay,sointerestingastheymightbe,and,exceptingmyself;areexclusivelyfeminine。WeareTHIN,mydearHarvard;wearepale,wearesharp。Thereissomethingmeagreaboutus;ourlineiswantinginroundness,ourcompositioninrichness。Welacktemperament;wedon’tknowhowtolive;nousnesavonspasvivre,astheysayhere。TheAmericantemperamentisrepresented(puttingmyselfaside,andIoftenthinkthatmytemperamentisnotatallAmerican)byayounggirlandhermother,andanotheryounggirlwithouthermother——withouthermotheroranyattendantorappendagewhatever。Theseyounggirlsarerathercurioustypes;theyhaveacertaininterest,theyhaveacertaingrace,buttheyaredisappointingtoo;theydon’tgofar;theydon’tkeepalltheypromise;theydon’tsatisfytheimagination。Theyarecold,slim,sexless;thephysiqueisnotgenerous,notabundant;itisonlythedrapery,theskirtsandfurbelows(thatis,Imeanintheyoungladywhohashermother)thatareabundant。Theyareverydifferent:oneofthemallelegance,allexpensiveness,withanairofhighfashion,fromNewYork;theotheraplain,pure,clear—eyed,straight—waisted,straight—steppingmaidenfromtheheartofNewEngland。Andyettheyareverymuchaliketoo——morealikethantheywouldcaretothinkthemselvesfortheyeyeeachotherwithcold,mistrustful,deprecatinglooks。TheyarebothspecimensoftheemancipatedyoungAmericangirl——practical,positive,passionless,subtle,andknowing,asyouplease,eithertoomuchortoolittle。
  Andyet,asIsay,theyhaveacertainstamp,acertaingrace;Iliketotalkwiththem,tostudythem。
  ThefairNewYorkeris,sometimes,veryamusing;sheasksmeifeveryoneinBostontalkslikeme——ifeveryoneisas"intellectual"asyourpoorcorrespondent。SheisforeverthrowingBostonupatme;I
  can’tgetridofBoston。Theotheronerubsitintometoo;butinadifferentway;sheseemstofeelaboutitasagoodMahommedanfeelstowardMecca,andregardsitasakindoffocusoflightforthewholehumanrace。PoorlittleBoston,whatnonsenseistalkedinthyname!ButthisNewEnglandmaidenis,inherway,astrangetype:
  sheistravellingalloverEuropealone——"toseeit,"shesays,"forherself。"Forherself!Whatcanthatstiffslimselfofhersdowithsuchsights,suchvisions!Shelooksateverything,goeseverywhere,passesherway,withherclearquieteyeswideopen;
  skirtingtheedgeofobsceneabysseswithoutsuspectingthem;pushingthroughbrambleswithouttearingherrobe;exciting,withoutknowingit,themostinjurioussuspicions;andalwaysholdinghercourse,passionless,stainless,fearless,charmless!Itisalittlefigureinwhich,afterall,ifyoucangettherightpointofview,thereissomethingratherstriking。
  Bywayofcontrast,thereisalovelyEnglishgirl,witheyesasshyasviolets,andavoiceassweet!ShehasasweetGainsboroughhead,andagreatGainsboroughhat,withamightyplumeinfrontofit,whichmakesashadowoverherquietEnglisheyes。Thenshehasasage—greenrobe,"mystic,wonderful,"allembroideredwithsubtledevicesandflowers,andbirdsoftendertint;verystraightandtightinfront,andadornedbehind,alongthespine,withlarge,strange,iridescentbuttons。Therevivaloftaste,ofthesenseofbeauty,inEngland,interestsmedeeply;whatisthereinasimplerowofspinalbuttonstomakeonedream——todonnorarever,astheysayhere?Ithinkthatagreataestheticrenascenceisathand,andthatagreatlightwillbekindledinEngland,foralltheworldtosee。TherearespiritstherethatIshouldliketocommunewith;I
  thinktheywouldunderstandme。
  ThisgraciousEnglishmaiden,withherclingingrobes,heramuletsandgirdles,withsomethingquaintandangularinherstep,hercarriagesomethingmediaevalandGothic,inthedetailsofherpersonanddress,thislovelyEvelynVane(isn’titabeautifulname?)isdeeply,delightfullypicturesque。Sheismuchawoman——elleestbienfemme,astheysayhere;simpler,softer,rounder,richerthantheyounggirlsIspokeofjustnow。Notmuchtalk——agreat,sweetsilence。Thenthevioleteye——theveryeyeitselfseemstoblush;
  thegreatshadowyhat,makingthebrowsoquiet;thestrange,clinging,clutching,picturedraiment!AsIsay,itisaverygracious,tendertype。Shehasherbrotherwithher,whoisabeautiful,fair—haired,gray—eyedyoungEnglishman。Heispurelyobjective;andhe,too,isveryplastic。
  CHAPTERV
  FROMMIRANDAHOPETOHERMOTHER。
  September26th。
  Youmustnotbefrightenedatnothearingfrommeoftener;itisnotbecauseIaminanytrouble,butbecauseIamgettingonsowell。IfIwereinanytroubleIdon’tthinkIshouldwritetoyou;Ishouldjustkeepquietandseeitthroughmyself。Butthatisnotthecaseatpresentand,ifIdon’twritetoyou,itisbecauseIamsodeeplyinterestedoverherethatIdon’tseemtofindtime。Itwasarealprovidencethatbroughtmetothishouse,where,inspiteofallobstacles,Iamabletodomuchgoodwork。IwonderhowIfindthetimeforallIdo;butwhenIthinkthatIhaveonlygotayearinEurope,IfeelasifIwouldn’tsacrificeasinglehour。
  TheobstaclesIrefertoarethedisadvantagesIhaveinlearningFrench,therebeingsomanypersonsaroundmespeakingEnglish,andthat,asyoumaysay,intheverybosomofaFrenchfamily。ItseemsasifyouheardEnglisheverywhere;butIcertainlydidn’texpecttofinditinaplacelikethis。Iamnotdiscouraged,however,andI
  talkFrenchallIcan,evenwiththeotherEnglishboarders。ThenI
  havealessoneverydayfromMissMaisonrouge(theelderdaughteroftheladyofthehouse),andFrenchconversationeveryeveninginthesalon,fromeighttoeleven,withMadameherself,andsomefriendsofhersthatoftencomein。Hercousin,Mr。Verdier,ayoungFrenchgentleman,isfortunatelystayingwithher,andImakeapointoftalkingwithhimasmuchaspossible。IhaveEXTRAPRIVATELESSONS
  fromhim,andIoftengoouttowalkwithhim。Somenight,soon,heistoaccompanymetotheopera。WehavealsoamostinterestingplanofvisitingallthegalleriesinParistogether。LikemostoftheFrench,heconverseswithgreatfluency,andIfeelasifI
  shouldreallygainfromhim。Heisremarkablyhandsome,andextremelypolite——payingagreatmanycompliments,which,Iamafraid,arenotalwaysSINCERE。WhenIreturntoBangorIwilltellyousomeofthethingshehassaidtome。Ithinkyouwillconsiderthemextremelycurious,andverybeautifulINTHEIRWAY。
  Theconversationintheparlour(fromeighttoeleven)isoftenremarkablybrilliant,andIoftenwishthatyou,orsomeoftheBangorfolks,couldbetheretoenjoyit。Eventhoughyoucouldn’tunderstanditIthinkyouwouldliketohearthewaytheygoon;theyseemtoexpresssomuch。IsometimesthinkthatatBangortheydon’texpressenough(butitseemsasifoverthere,therewaslesstoexpress)。Itseemsasif;atBangor,therewerethingsthatfolksnevertriedtosay;buthere,IhavelearnedfromstudyingFrenchthatyouhavenoideawhatyoucansay,beforeyoutry。AtBangortheyseemtogiveitupbeforehand;theydon’tmakeanyeffort。(I
  don’tsaythisintheleastforWilliamPlatt,inparticular。
  IamsureIdon’tknowwhattheywillthinkofmewhenIgetback。
  Itseemsasif;overhere,Ihadlearnedtocomeoutwitheverything。
  IsupposetheywillthinkIamnotsincere;butisn’titmoresinceretocomeoutwiththingsthantoconcealthem?Ihavebecomeverygoodfriendswitheveryoneinthehouse——thatis(yousee,IAM
  sincere),withALMOSTeveryone。ItisthemostinterestingcircleI
  everwasin。There’sagirlhere,anAmerican,thatIdon’tlikesomuchastherest;butthatisonlybecauseshewon’tletme。I
  shouldliketolikeher,eversomuch,becausesheismostlovelyandmostattractive;butshedoesn’tseemtowanttoknowmeortolikeme。ShecomesfromNewYork,andsheisremarkablypretty,withbeautifuleyesandthemostdelicatefeatures;sheisalsoremarkablyelegant——inthisrespectwouldbearcomparisonwithanyoneIhaveseenoverhere。Butitseemsasifshedidn’twanttorecognisemeorassociatewithme;asifshewantedtomakeadifferencebetweenus。Itislikepeopletheycall"haughty"inbooks。Ihaveneverseenanyonelikethatbefore——anyonethatwantedtomakeadifference;andatfirstIwasrightdowninterested,sheseemedtomesolikeaproudyoungladyinanovel。Ikeptsayingtomyselfallday,"haughty,haughty,"andIwishedshewouldkeeponso。Butshedidkeepon;shekeptontoolong;andthenIbegantofeelhurt。