byAnthonyTrollope
  Inthehappydayswhenwewereyoung,nodescriptionconveyedtoussocompleteanideaofmysteriousrealityasthatofanOrientalcity。Weknewitwasactuallythere,buthadsuchvaguenotionsofitswaysandlooks!LetanyonerememberhisearlyimpressionsastoBagdadorGrandCairo,andthensayifthiswasnotso。Itwasprobablytakenfromthe"ArabianNights,"andthepictureproducedwasoneofstrange,fantastic,luxurioushouses;ofwomenwhowereeitherveryyoungandverybeautiful,orelseveryoldandverycunning;butineitherstateexercisingmuchmoreinfluenceinlifethanwomenintheEastdonow;
  ofgood—natured,capricious,thoughsometimestyrannicalmonarchs;andoflifefullofquaintmysteries,quiteunintelligibleineveryphasis,andonthataccountthemorepicturesque。
  AndperhapsGrandCairohasthusfilleduswithmorewondereventhanBagdad。WehavebeeninacertainmannerathomeatBagdad,buthaveonlyvisitedGrandCairooccasionally。Iknownoplacewhichwastome,inearlyyears,sodelightfullymysteriousasGrandCairo。
  ButtheroutetoIndiaandAustraliahaschangedallthis。MenfromallcountriesgoingtotheEast,nowpassthroughCairo,anditsstreetsandcostumesarenolongerstrangetous。Ithasbecomealsoaresortforinvalids,orratherforthosewhofearthattheymaybecomeinvalidsiftheyremaininacoldclimateduringthewintermonths。
  AndthusatCairothereisalwaystobefoundaconsiderablepopulationofFrench,Americans,andofEnglish。Orientallifeisbroughthometous,dreadfullydilutedbywesterncustoms,andthedelightsofthe"ArabianNights"areshornofhalftheirvalue。Whenwehaveseenathingitisneversomagnificenttousaswhenitwashalfunknown。
  ItisnotmuchthatwedeigntolearnfromtheseOrientals,——wewhogloryinourcivilisation。Wedonotcopytheirsilenceortheirabstemiousness,northatinvariablemindfulnessofhisownpersonaldignitywhichalwaysadherestoaTurkortoanArab。WechatterasmuchatCairoaselsewhere,andeatasmuchanddrinkasmuch,anddressourselvesgenerallyinthesameolduglycostume。Butwedousuallytakeuponourselvestowearredcaps,andwedorideondonkeys。
  NorarethevisitorsfromtheWesttoCairobyanymeansconfinedtothemalesex。LadiesaretobeseeninthestreetsquiteregardlessoftheMahommedancustomwhichpresumesaveiltobenecessaryforanappearanceinpublic;and,totellthetruth,theMahommedansingeneraldonotappeartobemuchshockedbytheireffrontery。
  Aquarterofthetownhasinthiswaybecomeinhabitedbymenwearingcoatsandwaistcoats,andbywomenwhoarewithoutveils;buttheEnglishtongueinEgyptfindsitscentreatShepheard’sHotel。ItisherethatpeoplecongregatewhoarelookingoutforpartiestovisitwiththemtheUpperNile,andwhoaregenerallyallsmilesandcourtesy;andherealsoaretobefoundtheywhohavejustreturnedfromthisjourney,andwhoareofteninaframeofmindtowardstheircompanionsthatismuchlessamiable。Fromhence,duringthewinter,acortegeproceedsalmostdailytothepyramids,ortoMemphis,ortothepetrifiedforest,ortotheCityoftheSun。Andthen,again,fourorfivetimesamonththehouseisfilledwithyoungaspirantsgoingouttoIndia,maleandfemale,fullofvalourandbloom;orwithotherscominghome,nolongeryoung,nolongeraspiring,butladenwithchildrenandgrievances。
  ThepartywithwhomweareatpresentconcernedisnotabouttoproceedfurtherthanthePyramids,andweshallbeabletogowiththemandreturninoneandthesameday。
  ItconsistedchieflyofanEnglishfamily,Mr。andMrs。Damer,theirdaughter,andtwoyoungsons;——ofthesechiefly,becausetheywerethenucleustowhichtheothershadattachedthemselvesasadherents;theyhadoriginatedthejourney,andinthewholemanagementofitMr。Damerretardedhimselfasthemaster。
  Theadherentswere,firstly,M。Delabordeau,aFrenchman,nowresidentinCairo,whohadgivenoutthathewasinsomewayconcernedinthecanalabouttobemadebetweentheMediterraneanandtheRedSea。IndiscussiononthissubjecthehadbecomeacquaintedwithMr。Damer;andalthoughthelattergentleman,truetoEnglishinterests,perpetuallydeclaredthatthecanalwouldneverbemade,andthusirritatedM。
  Delabordeaunotalittle——nevertheless,somemeasureoffriendshiphadgrownupbetweenthem。
  TherewasalsoanAmericangentleman,Mr。JeffersonIngram,whowascomprisingallcountriesandallnationsinonegrandtour,asAmericangentlemensooftendo。Hewasyoungandgood—looking,andhadmadehimselfespeciallyagreeabletoMr。Damer,whohaddeclared,morethanonce,thatMr。IngramwasbyfarthemostrationalAmericanhehadevermet。Mr。IngramwouldlistentoMr。Damerbythehalf—hourastothevirtueoftheBritishConstitution,andhadevensatbyalmostwithpatiencewhenMr。DamerhadexpressedadoubtastothegoodworkingoftheUnitedStates’schemeofpolicy,——which,inanAmerican,wasmostwonderful。ButsomeofthesojournersatShepheard’shadobservedthatMr。IngramwasinthehabitoftalkingwithMissDameralmostasmuchaswithherfather,andarguedfromthat,thatfondastheyoungmanwasofpolitics,hedidsometimesturnhismindtootherthingsalso。
  AndthentherewasMissDawkins。NowMissDawkinswasanimportantperson,bothastoherselfandastoherlineoflife,andshemustbedescribed。Shewas,inthefirstplace,anunprotectedfemaleofaboutthirtyyearsofage。Asthisisbecominganestablishedprofession,settingitselfupasitwereinoppositiontotheoldworldideathatwomen,likegreenpeas,cannotcometoperfectionwithoutsupporting—
  sticks,itwillbeunderstoodatoncewhatwereMissDawkins’ssentiments。Sheconsidered——oratanyratesoexpressedherself——thatpeascouldgrowverywellwithoutsticks,andcouldnotonlygrowthusunsupported,butcouldalsomaketheirwayabouttheworldwithoutanyincumbranceofstickswhatsoever。Shedidnotintend,shesaid,torivalIdaPfeiffer,seeingthatshewasattachedinamoderatewaytobedandboard,andwasattachedtosocietyinamanneralmostmorethanmoderate;butshehadnoideaofbeingpreventedfromseeinganythingshewishedtoseebecauseshehadneitherfather,norhusband,norbrotheravailableforthepurposeofescort。Shewasahumancreature,witharmsandlegs,shesaid;andsheintendedtousethem。Andthiswasallverywell;butneverthelessshehadastronginclinationtousethearmsandlegsofotherpeoplewhenshecouldmakethemserviceable。
  InpersonMissDawkinswasnotwithoutattraction。IshouldexaggerateifIweretosaythatshewasbeautifulandelegant;butshewasgoodlooking,andnotusuallyillmannered。Shewastall,andgiftedwithfeaturesrathersharpandwitheyesverybright。Herhairwasofthedarkestshadeofbrown,andwasalwaysworninbandeaux,veryneatly。
  Sheappearedgenerallyinblack,thoughothercircumstancesdidnotleadonetosupposethatshewasinmourning;andthen,noothertravellingcostumeissoconvenient!Shealwaysworeadarkbroad—
  brimmedstrawhat,astotheribbonsonwhichshewasratherparticular。Shewasveryneataboutherglovesandboots;andthoughitcannotbesaidthatherdresswasgotupwithoutreferencetoexpense,therecanbenodoubtthatitwasnoteffectedwithoutconsiderableoutlay,——andmoreconsiderablethought。
  MissDawkins——SabrinaDawkinswashername,butsheseldomhadfriendsaboutherintimateenoughtousethewordSabrina——wascertainlyacleveryoungwoman。Shecouldtalkonmostsubjects,ifnotwell,atleastwellenoughtoamuse。Ifshehadnotreadmuch,shenevershowedanylamentabledeficiency;shewasgood—humoured,asarule,andcouldonoccasionsbeverysoftandwinning。Peoplewhohadknownherlongwouldsometimessaythatshewasselfish;butwithnewacquaintanceshewasforbearingandself—denying。
  WithwhatincomeMissDawkinswasblessednooneseemedtoknow。Shelivedlikeagentlewoman,asfarasoutwardappearancewent,andneverseemedtobeinwant;butsomepeoplewouldsaythatsheknewverywellhowmanysidesthereweretoashilling,andsomeenemyhadoncedeclaredthatshewasan"oldsoldier。"SuchwasMissDawkins。
  Shealso,aswellasMr。IngramandM。Delabordeau,hadlaidherselfouttofindtheweaksideofMr。Damer。Mr。Damer,withallhisfamily,wasgoinguptheNile,anditwasknownthathehadroomfortwoinhisboatoverandabovehisownfamily。MissDawkinshadtoldhimthatshehadnotquitemadeuphermindtoundergosogreatafatigue,butthat,nevertheless,shehadalongingofthesoultoseesomethingofNubia。TothisMr。Damerhadanswerednothingbut"Oh!"
  whichMissDawkinshadnotfoundtobeencouraging。
  Butshehadnotonthataccountdespaired。Toamarriedmantherearealwaystwosides,andinthisinstancetherewasMrs。DameraswellasMr。Damer。WhenMr。Damersaid"Oh!"MissDawkinssighed,andsaid,"Yes,indeed!"thensmiled,andbetookherselftoMrs。Damer。
  NowMrs。Damerwassoft—hearted,andalsosomewhatold—fashioned。ShedidnotconceiveanyviolentaffectionforMissDawkins,butshetoldherdaughterthat"thesingleladybyherselfwasaveryniceyoungwoman,andthatitwasathousandpitiessheshouldhavetogoaboutsomuchalonelike。"
  MissDamerhadturnedupherprettynose,thinking,perhaps,howsmallwasthechancethatitevershouldbeherownlottobeanunprotectedfemale。ButMissDawkinscarriedherpointatanyrateasregardedtheexpeditiontothePyramids。
  MissDamer,Ihavesaid,hadaprettynose。Imayalsosaythatshehadprettyeyes,mouth,andchin,withothernecessaryappendages,allpretty。AstothetwoMasterDamers,whowererespectivelyoftheagesoffifteenandsixteen,itmaybesufficienttosaythattheywereconspicuousforredcapsandfortheconstancywithwhichtheyracedtheirdonkeys。
  Andnowthedonkeys,andthedonkeyboys,andthedragomanswereallstandingatthestepsofShepheard’sHotel。Toeachdonkeytherewasadonkey—boy,andtoeachgentlemantherewasadragoman,sothatagoodlycortegewasassembled,andagoodlynoisewasmade。Itmayhereberemarked,perhapswithsomelittlepride,thatnothalfthenoiseisgiveninEgypttopersonsspeakinganyotherlanguagethatisbestowedonthosewhosevocabularyisEnglish。
  Thislastedforhalfanhour。HadthepartybeenFrenchthedonkeyswouldhavearrivedonlyfifteenminutesbeforetheappointedtime。AndthenoutcameDamerpereandDamermere,Damerfille,andDamerfils。
  Damermerewasleaningonherhusband,aswasherwont。Shewasnotanunprotectedfemale,andhadnodesiretomakeanyattemptsinthatline。DamerfillewasattendedsedulouslybyMr。Ingram,forwhosedemolishment,however,Mr。Damerstillbroughtup,inaloudvoice,thefagendsofcertainpoliticalargumentswhichhewouldfainhavepoureddirectintotheearsofhisopponent,hadnothiswifebeensopersistentinclaimingherprivileges。M。DelabordeaushouldhavefollowedwithMissDawkins,buthisFrenchpoliteness,orelsehisfearoftheunprotectedfemale,taughthimtowalkontheothersideofthemistressoftheparty。
  MissDawkinsleftthehousewithaneageryoungDameryellingoneachsideofher;butnevertheless,thoughthusneglectedbythegentlemenoftheparty,shewasallsmilesandprettiness,andlookedsosweetlyonMr。Ingramwhenthatgentlemanstayedamomenttohelpherontoherdonkey,thathisheartalmostmisgavehimforleavingherassoonasshewasinherseat。
  Andthentheywereoff。IngoingfromthehoteltothePyramidsourpartyhadnottopassthroughanyofthequeeroldnarrowstreetsofthetrueCairo——CairotheOriental。Theyalllaybehindthemastheywentdownbythebackofthehotel,bythebarracksofthePashaandtheCollegeoftheDervishes,tothevillageofoldCairoandthebanksoftheNile。
  Heretheywerekepthalfanhourwhiletheirdragomansmadeabargainwiththeferryman,astatelyreis,orcaptainofaboat,whodeclaredwithmuchdignitythathecouldnotcarrythemoverforasumlessthansixtimestheamounttowhichhewasjustlyentitled;whilethedragomans,withgreatenergyonbehalfoftheirmasters,offeredhimonlyfivetimesthatsum。
  Asfarasthereiswasconcerned,thecontestmightsoonhavebeenatanend,forthemanwasnotwithoutaconscience;andwouldhavebeencontentwithfivetimesandahalf;butthenthethreedragomansquarrelledamongthemselvesastowhichshouldhavethepayingofthemoney,andtheaffairbecameverytedious。
  "Whathorrid,odiousmen!"saidMissDawkins,appealingtoMr。Damer。
  "Doyouthinktheywillletusgooveratall?"
  "Well,Isupposetheywill;peopledogetovergenerally,Ibelieve。
  Abdallah!Abdallah!whydon’tyoupaytheman?Thatfellowisalwaysstrivingtosavehalfapiastreforme。"
  "Iwishhewasn’tquitesoparticular,"saidMrs。Damer,whowasalreadybecomingrathertired;"butI’msurehe’saveryhonestmanintryingtoprotectusfrombeingrobbed。"
  "Thatheis,"saidMissDawkins。"Whatadelightfultraitofnationalcharacteritistoseethesemensofaithfultotheiremployers。"Andthenatlasttheygotovertheferry,Mr。Ingramhavingdescendedamongthecombatants,andsettledthematterindisputebythreatsandshouts,andanupliftedstick。
  TheycrossedthebroadNileexactlyatthespotwherethenilometer,orriverguage,measuresfromdaytoday,andfromyeartoyear,theincreasingordecreasingtreasuresofthestream,andlandedatavillagewherethousandsofeggsaremadeintochickensbytheprocessofartificialincubation。
  Mrs。Damerthoughtthatitwasveryharduponthematernalhens——thehenswhichshouldhavebeenmaternal——thattheyshouldbethusrobbedofthedelightsofmotherhood。
  "Sounnatural,youknow,"saidMissDawkins;"soopposedtothefosteringprinciplesofcreation。Don’tyouthinkso,Mr。Ingram?"
  Mr。Ingramsaidhedidn’tknow。HewasagainseatingMissDameronherdonkey,anditmustbepresumedthatheperformedthisfeatclumsily;
  forFannyDamercouldjumponandofftheanimalwithhardlyafingertohelpher,whenherbrotherorherfatherwasherescort;butnow,underthehandsofMr。Ingram,thisworkofmountingwasonewhichrequiredconsiderabletimeandcare。AllwhichMissDawkinsobservedwithprecision。
  "It’sallverywelltalking,"saidMr。Damer,bringinguphisdonkeynearlyalongsidethatofMr。Ingram,andignoringhisdaughter’spresence,justashewouldhavedonethatofhisdog;"butyoumustadmitthatpoliticalpowerismoreequallydistributedinEnglandthanitisinAmerica。"
  "Perhapsitis,"saidMr。Ingram;"equallydistributedamong,wewillsay,threedozenfamilies,"andhemadeafeintasthoughtoholdinhisimpetuousdonkey,usingthespur,however,atthesametimeonthesidethatwasunseenbyMr。Damer。Ashedidso,Fanny’sdonkeybecameequallyimpetuous,andthetwocanteredoninadvanceofthewholeparty。ItwasquiteinvainthatMr。Damer,atthetopofhisvoice,shoutedoutsomethingabout"threedozencorruptibledemagogues。"Mr。
  Ingramfounditquiteimpossibletorestrainhisdonkeysoastolistentothesarcasm。
  "Idobelievepapawouldtalkpolitics,"saidFanny,"ifhewereatthetopofMontBlanc,orundertheFallsofNiagara。Idohatepolitics,Mr。Ingram。"
  "Iamsorryforthat,very,"saidMr。Ingram,almostsadly。
  "Sorry,why?Youdon’twantmetotalkpolitics,doyou?"
  "InAmericaweareallpoliticians,moreorless;and,therefore,I
  supposeyouwillhateusall。"
  "Well,IratherthinkIshould,"saidFanny;"youwouldbesuchbores。"
  Buttherewassomethinginhereye,asshespoke,whichatonedfortheharshnessofherwords。
  "AveryniceyoungmanisMr。Ingram;don’tyouthinkso?"saidMissDawkinstoMrs。Damer。Mrs。Damerwasgoingalonguponherdonkey,notaltogethercomfortably。Shemuchwishedtohaveherlordandlegitimateprotectorbyherside,buthehadlefthertothecareofadragomanwhoseEnglishwasnotintelligibletoher,andshewasrathercross。
  "Indeed,MissDawkins,Idon’tknowwhoareniceandwhoarenot。Thisnastydonkeystumblesateverstep。There!IknowIshallbedowndirectly。"
  "Youneednotbeatallafraidofthat;theyareperfectlysafe,I
  believe,always,"saidMissDawkins,risinginherstirrup,andhandlingherreinsquitetriumphantly。"Averylittlepracticewillmakeyouquiteathome。"
  "Idon’tknowwhatyoumeanbyaverylittlepractice。Ihavebeenheresixweeks。Whydidyouputmeonsuchabaddonkeyasthis?"andsheturnedtoAbdallah,thedragoman。
  "Himberrygooddonkey,mylady;berrygood,——bestofall。CallhimJackinCairo。HimgotoPyramidandback,andmindnoting。"
  "Whatdoeshesay,MissDawkins?"
  "HesaysthatthatdonkeyisonecalledJack。IfsoI’vehadhimmyselfmanytimes,andJackisaverygooddonkey。"
  "Iwishyouhadhimnowwithallmyheart,"saidMrs。Damer。UponwhichMissDawkinsofferedtochange;butthoseperilsofmountinganddismountingweretoMrs。Dameragreatdealtooseveretoadmitofthis。
  "Sevenmilesofcanaltobecarriedoutintothesea,ataminimumdepthoftwenty—threefeet,andthestonetobefetchedfromHeavenknowswhere!AllthemoneyinFrancewouldn’tdoit。"ThiswasaddressedbyMr。DamertoM。Delabordeau,whomhehadcaughtaftertheabruptflightofMr。Ingram。
  "DenwewillborrowaleetlefromEngland,"saidM。Delabordeau。
  "Preciouslittle,Icantellyou。Suchstockwouldnotholditspriceinourmarketsfortwenty—fourhours。Ifitweremade,thefreightswouldbetooheavytoallowofmerchandisepassingthrough。Theheavygoodswouldallgoround;andasforpassengersandmails,youdon’texpecttogetthem,Isuppose,whilethereisarailroadreadymadetotheirhand?"
  "Yevillcarryallyourshipsthroughvidoutanytransportation。Thinkofthat,myfriend。"
  "Pshaw!YouareworsethanIngram。OfalltheplansIeverheardofitisthemostmonstrous,themostimpracticable,themost——"Butherehewasinterruptedbytheentreatiesofhiswife,whohad,inabsolutedeedandfact,slippedfromherdonkey,andwasnowcallinglustilyforherhusband’said。WhereuponMissDawkinsalliedherselftotheFrenchman,andlistenedwithanairofstrongconvictiontothoseargumentswhichweresoweakintheearsofMr。Damer。M。DelabordeauwasabouttorideacrosstheGreatDeserttoJerusalem,anditmightperhapsbequiteaswelltodothatwithhim,astogouptheNileasfarasthesecondcataractwiththeDamers。
  "Andso,M。Delabordeau,youintendreallytostartforMountSinai?"
  "Yes,mees;veintendtomakeonestartonMondayweek。"
  "AndsoontoJerusalem。Youarequiteright。Itwouldbeathousandpitiestobeinthesecountries,andtoreturnwithoutgoingoversuchgroundasthat。IshallcertainlygotoJerusalemmyselfbythatroute。"
  "Vot,mees!you?Wouldyounotfindittoomuchfatigante?"
  "Icarenothingforfatigue,ifIlikethepartyIamwith,——nothingatall,literally。Youwillhardlyunderstandme,perhaps,M。
  Delabordeau;butIdonotseeanyreasonwhyI,asayoungwoman,shouldnotmakeanyjourneythatispracticableforayoungman。"
  "Ah!datisgreatresolutionforyou,mees。"
  "Imeanasfarasfatigueisconcerned。YouareaFrenchman,andbelongtothenationthatisattheheadofallhumancivilisation——"
  M。Delabordeautookoffhishatandbowedlow,tothepeakofhisdonkeysaddle。Hedearlylovedtohearhiscountrypraised,asMissDawkinswasaware。
  "AndIamsureyoumustagreewithme,"continuedMissDawkins,"thatthetimeisgonebyforwomentoconsiderthemselveshelplessanimals,ortobesoconsideredbyothers。"
  "MeesDawkinsvouldneverbeconsidered,notinanytimesatall,tobeonehelplessanimal,"saidM。Delabordeaucivilly。
  "Idonot,atanyrate,intendtobesoregarded,"saidshe。"Itsuitsmetotravelalone;notthatIamaversetosociety;quitethecontrary;ifImeetpleasantpeopleIamalwaysreadytojointhem。
  Butitsuitsmetotravelwithoutanypermanentparty,andIdonotseewhyfalseshameshouldpreventmyseeingtheworldasthoroughlyasthoughIbelongedtotheothersex。Whyshouldit,M。Delabordeau?"
  M。Delabordeaudeclaredthathedidnotseeanyreasonwhyitshould。
  "IampassionatelyanxioustostanduponMountSinai,"continuedMissDawkins;"topresswithmyfeettheearliestspotinsacredhistory,oftheidentityofwhichwearecertain;tofeelwithinmetheawe—
  inspiringthrillofthatthricesacredhour!"
  TheFrenchmanlookedasthoughhedidnotquiteunderstandher,buthesaidthatitwouldbemagnifique。
  "YouhavealreadymadeupyourpartyIsuppose,M。Delabordeau?"
  M。DelabordeaugavethenamesoftwoFrenchmenandoneEnglishmanwhoweregoingwithhim。
  "Uponmyworditisagreattemptationtojoinyou,"saidMissDawkins,"onlyforthathorridEnglishman。"
  "Vat,Mr。Stanley?"
  "Oh,Idon’tmeananydisrespecttoMr。Stanley。ThehorridnessI
  speakofdoesnotattachtohimpersonally,buttohisstiff,respectable,ungainly,well—behaved,irrational,anduncivilisedcountry。YouseeIamnotverypatriotic。"
  "Notquitesomuchasmyfriend,Mr。Damer。"
  "Ha!ha!ha!anexcellentcreature,isn’the?Andsotheyallare,dearcreatures。Butthentheyaresobackward。TheyaremostanxiousthatIshouldjointhemuptheNile,but——,"andthenMissDawkinsshruggedhershouldersgracefully,and,assheflatteredherself,likeaFrenchwoman。Afterthattheyrodeoninsilenceforafewmoments。
  "Yes,ImustseeMountSinai,"saidMissDawkins,andthensigheddeeply。M。Delabordeau,notwithstandingthathiscountrydoesstandattheheadofallhumancivilisation,wasnotcourteousenoughtodeclarethatifMissDawkinswouldjoinhispartyacrossthedesert,nothingwouldbewantingtomakehisbeatitudeinthisworldperfect。
  Theirroadfromthevillageofthechicken—batchingovenslayupalongtheleftbankoftheNile,throughanimmensegroveofloftypalm—
  trees,lookingoutfromamongwhichourvisitorscouldeverandanonseetheheadsofthetwogreatPyramids;——thatis,suchofthemcouldseeitasfeltanysolicitudeinthematter。
  Itisastonishinghowsuchthingslosetheirgreatcharmasmenfindthemselvesintheircloseneighbourhood。ToonelivinginNewYorkorLondon,howecstaticistheinterestinspiredbythesehugestructures。
  Onefeelsthatnopricewouldbetoohightopayforseeingthemaslongastimeanddistance,andtheworld’sinexorabletask—work,forbidsuchavisit。Howintensewouldbethedelightofclimbingoverthewondroushandiworkofthosewondrousarchitectssolongsincedead;howthrillingtheawewithwhichonewouldpenetratedownintotheirinteriorcaves——thosecavesinwhichlayburiedthebonesofancientkings,whoseverynamesseemtohavecometousalmostfromanotherworld!
  Butallthesefeelingsbecomestrangelydim,theiracuteedgeswonderfullyworn,asthesubjectswhichinspiredthemarebroughtneartous。"Ah!sothosearethePyramids,arethey?"saysthetraveller,whenthefirstglimpseofthemisshowntohimfromthewindowofarailwaycarriage。"Dearme;theydon’tlooksoveryhigh,dothey?
  ForHeaven’ssakeputtheblinddown,orweshallbedestroyedbythedust。"AndthentheecstasyandkeendelightofthePyramidshasvanishedforever。
  Ourfriends,therefore,whoforweekspasthadseenfromadistance,thoughtheyhadnotyetvisitedthem,didnotseemtohaveanystrongfeelingonthesubjectastheytrottedthroughthegroveofpalm—trees。
  Mr。Damerhadnotyetescapedfromhiswife,whowasstillfretfulfromtheresultofherlittleaccident。
  "ItwasallthechatteringofthatMissDawkins,"saidMrs。Damer。
  "ShewouldnotletmeattendtowhatIwasdoing。"
  "MissDawkinsisanass,"saidherhusband。
  "Itisapityshehasnoonetolookafterher,"saidMrs。Damer。M。
  DelabordeauwasstilllisteningtoMissDawkins’srapturesaboutMountSinai。"Iwonderwhethershehasgotanymoney,"saidM。Delabordeautohimself。"Itcan’tbemuch,"hewentonthinking,"orshewouldnotbeleftinthiswaybyherself。"AndtheresultofhisthoughtswasthatMissDawkins,ifundertaken,mightprobablybecomemoreplaguethanprofit。AstoMissDawkinsherself,thoughshewasecstaticaboutMountSinai——whichwasnotpresent——sheseemedtohaveforgottenthepoorPyramids,whichwerethenbeforehernose。
  Thetwoladswereridingracesalongthedustypath,muchtothedisgustoftheirdonkey—boys。Theirtimeforenjoymentwastocome。
  Therewerehamperstobeopened;andthentheabsoluteclimbingofthePyramidswouldactuallybeadelighttothem。
  AsforMissDamerandMr。Ingram,itwasclearthattheyhadforgottenpalm—trees,Pyramids,theNile,andallEgypt。Theyhadescapedtoamuchfairerparadise。
  "CouldIbeartoliveamongRepublicans?"saidFanny,repeatingthelastwordsofherAmericanlover,andlookingdownfromherdonkeytothegroundasshedidso。"IhardlyknowwhatRepublicansare,Mr。
  Ingram。"
  "Letmeteachyou,"saidhe。
  "Youdotalksuchnonsense。IdeclarethereisthatMissDawkinslookingatusasthoughshehadtwentyeyes。Couldyounotteachher,Mr。Ingram?"
  Andsotheyemergedfromthepalm—treegrove,throughavillagecrowdedwithdirty,stragglingArabchildren,ontothecultivatedplain,beyondwhichthePyramidsstood,nowfullbeforethem;thetwolargePyramids,asmallerone,andthehugesphynx’sheadallinagrouptogether。
  "Fanny,"saidBobDamer,ridinguptoher,"mammawantsyou;sotoddleback。"
  "Mammawantsme!Whatcanshewantmefornow?"saidFanny,withalookofanythingbutfilialdutyinherface。
  "ToprotectherfromMissDawkins,Ithink。Shewantsyoutorideatherside,sothatDawkinsmayn’tgetather。Now,Mr。Ingram,I’llbetyouhall—a—crownI’matthetopofthebigPyramidbeforeyou。"
  PoorFanny!Sheobeyed,however;doubtlessfeelingthatitwouldnotdoasyettoshowtooplainlythatshepreferredMr。Ingramtohermother。Shearrestedherdonkey,therefore,tillMrs。Damerovertookher;andMr。Ingram,ashepausedforamomentwithherwhileshedidso,fellintothehandsofMissDawkins。
  "Icannotthink,Fanny,howyougetonsoquick,"saidMrs。Damer。
  "I’malwayslast;butthenmydonkeyissuchaverynastyone。Lookthere,now;he’salwaystryingtogetmeoff。"
  "WeshallsoonbeatthePyramidsnow,mamma。"
  "HowonearthIamevertogetbackagainIcannotthink。IamsotirednowthatIcanhardlysit。"
  "You’llbebetter,mamma,whenyougetyourluncheonandaglassofwine。"
  "HowonearthwearetoeatanddrinkwiththosenastyArabpeoplearoundus,Ican’tconceive。Theytellmeweshallbeeatenupbythem。But,Fanny,whathasMr。Ingrambeensayingtoyoualltheday?"
  "Whathashebeensaying,mamma?Oh!Idon’tknow;——ahundredthings,Idaresay。Buthehasnotbeentalkingtomeallthetime。"
  "Ithinkhehas,Fanny,nearly,sincewecrossedtheriver。Oh,dear!
  oh,dear!thisanimaldoeshurtmeso!Everytimehemovesheflingshisheadabout,andthatgivesmesuchabump。"AndthenFannycommiseratedhermother’ssufferings,andinhercommiserationcontrivedtoeludeanyfurtherquestioningsastoMr。Ingram’sconversation。
  "Majesticpiles,aretheynot?"saidMissDawkins,who,havingchangedhercompanion,allowedhermindtorevertfromMountSinaitothePyramids。Theywerenowridingthroughcultivatedground,withthevastextentofthesandsofLibyabeforethem。ThetwoPyramidswerestandingonthemarginofthesand,withtheheadoftherecumbentsphynxplainlyvisiblebetweenthem。Butnoideacanbeformedofthesizeofthisimmensefiguretillitisvisitedmuchmoreclosely。Thebodyiscoveredwithsand,andtheheadandneckalonestandabovethesurfaceoftheground。Theywerestilltwomilesdistant,andthesphynxasyetwasbutanobscuremountbetweenthetwovastPyramids。
  "Immensepiles!"saidMissDawkins,repeatingherownwords。
  "Yes,theyarelarge,"saidMr。Ingram,whodidnotchoosetoindulgeinenthusiasminthepresenceofMissDawkins。
  "Enormous!Whatagrandidea!——eh,Mr。Ingram?Thehumanracedoesnotcreatesuchthingsasthosenowadays!"
  "No,indeed,"heanswered;"butperhapswecreatebetterthings。"
  "Better!Youdonotmeantosay,Mr。Ingram,thatyouareanutilitarian。Ido,intruth,hopebetterthingsofyouthanthat。
  Yes!steammillsarebetter,nodoubt,andmechanics’institutesandpennynewspapers。Butisnothingtobevaluedbutwhatisuseful?"
  AndMissDawkins,intheheightofherenthusiasm,switchedherdonkeyseverelyovertheshoulder。
  "Imight,perhaps,havesaidalsothatwecreatemorebeautifulthings,"saidMr。Ingram。
  "Butwecannotcreateolderthings。"
  "No,certainly;wecannotdothat。"
  "Norcanweimbuewhatwedocreatewiththegrandassociationswhichenvironthosepileswithsointenseaninterest。Thinkofthemightydead,Mr。Ingram,andoftheirgreathomeswhenliving。Thinkofthehandswhichittooktoraisethosehugeblocks——"
  "Andoftheliveswhichitcost。"
  "Doubtless。Thetyrannyandinvinciblepoweroftheroyalarchitectsaddtothegrandeuroftheidea。OnewouldnotwishtohavebackthekingsofEgypt。"
  "Well,no;theywouldbeneitherusefulnorbeautiful。"
  "Perhapsnot;andIdonotwishtobepicturesqueattheexpenseofmyfellow—creatures。"
  "Idoubt,even,whethertheywouldbepicturesque。"
  "YouknowwhatImean,Mr。Ingram。Buttheassociationsofsuchnames,andthepresenceofthestupendousworkswithwhichtheyareconnected,fillthesoulwithawe。Such,atleast,istheeffectwithmine。"
  "Ifearthatmytendencies,MissDawkins,aremorerealisticthanyourown。"
  "Youbelongtoayoungcountry,Mr。Ingram,andarenaturallypronetothinkofmateriallife。Thenecessityoflivingloomslargebeforeyou。"
  "Verylarge,indeed,MissDawkins。"
  "Whereaswithus,withsomeofusatleast,thematerialaspecthasgivenplacetooneinwhichpoetryandenthusiasmprevail。Tosuchamongustheassociationsofpasttimesareverydear。Cheops,tome,ismorethanNapoleonBonaparte。"
  "Thatismorethanmostofyourcountrymencansay,atanyrate,justatpresent。"
  "Iamawoman,"continuedMissDawkins。
  Mr。Ingramtookoffhishatinacknowledgmentbothoftheannouncementandofthefact。
  "Andtousitisnotgiven——notgivenasyet——toshareinthegreatdeedsofthepresent。Theenvyofyoursexhasdrivenusfromthepathswhichleadtohonour。Butthedeedsofthepastareasmuchoursasyours。"
  "Oh,quiteasmuch。"
  "’Tistoyourcountrythatwelookforenfranchisementfromthisthraldom。Yes,Mr。Ingram,thewomenofAmericahavethatstrengthofmindwhichhasbeenwantingtothoseofEurope。IntheUnitedStateswomanwillatlastlearntoexerciseherpropermission。"
  Mr。Ingramexpressedasincerewishthatsuchmightbethecase;andthenwonderingattheingenuitywithwhichMissDawkinshadtravelledroundfromCheopsandhisPyramidtotherightsofwomeninAmerica,hecontrivedtofallback,underthepretenceofaskingaftertheailmentsofMrs。Damer。
  Andnowatlasttheywereonthesand,intheabsolutedesert,makingtheirwayuptotheveryfootofthemostnorthernofthetwoPyramids。
  TheywerebythistimesurroundedbyacrowdofArabguides,orArabsprofessingtobeguides,whohadalreadyascertainedthatMr。Damerwasthechiefoftheparty,andwereaccordinglydrivinghimalmosttomadnessbytheoffersoftheirservices,andtheirassurancethathecouldnotpossiblyseetheoutsideortheinsideofeitherstructure,orevenremainaliveupontheground,unlessheatonceacceptedtheiroffersmadeattheirownprices。