IftheyhadneededexplanationitwouldhavebeengivenbytheannouncementintheofficeofthehotelthatatroupeofBritishblondeswasthenappearinginQuebecforoneweekonly。
  Afterdinnertheytookpossessionoftheparlor,andwhileonestrummedfitfullyupontheailinghotelpiano,theresttalked,andtalkedshop,ofcourse,asallofusdowhenseveralofatradearegottogether。
  “W’at,“saidtheeldestofthedark-faced,blackhairedBritishblondesofJewishrace,——“w’atarewegoingtogiveatMontrehal?“
  “We’regoingtogive’Pygmalion,’atMontrehal,“answeredtheBritishblondeofAmericanbirth,good-humoredlyburlesquingtheerringhofhersister。
  “Butwecahn’t,youknow,“saidtheladywiththefringedforehead;
  “HagnesisgoneontoNewYork,andthere’snobodytodoWenus。“
  “Yes,youknow,“demandedthe,firstspeaker,“oo’stodoWenus?
  “Bella’stodoWenus,“saidathird。
  Therewasanoutcryatthis,and“’Oweverwouldshegetherselfupfor’Venus?“and“W’ataguyshe’lllook!“and“Nonsense!Bella’stoo’eavyforVenus!“camefromdifferentlivelycritics;andthedebatethreatenedtobecometoointimateforthepublicear,whenoneoftheirgentlemencameinandsaid,“Charleydon’tseemsowellthisafternoon。“Onthisthechoruschangeditsnote,andattheproposal,“PoorCharley,let’sgoandcheer’imhopabit,“thewholegood-temperedcompanytroopedoutoftheparlortogether。
  Ourtouristsmeanttogivetherestoftheafternoontothatsortofaimlesswanderingtoandfroaboutthestreetswhichseizesaforeigncityunawares,andbestdevelopsitscharmofstrangeness。SotheywentoutandtooktheirfillofQuebecwithappetiteskeenthroughlongfastingfromthequaintandold,andonlysharpenedbyMontreal,andimpartiallyrejoicedinthecrookedup-and-downhillstreets;thethoroughlyFrenchdomesticarchitectureofaplacethatthusdeniedhavingbeenEnglishforahundredyears;theporte-cocheresbesideeveryhouse;theFrenchnamesuponthedoors,andtheoddityofthebellpulls;
  therough-paved,rattlingstreets;theshiningroofsoftin,andtheuniversaldormer-windows;thelittlenessoftheprivatehouses,andthegreatnessofthehigh-walledandgarden-girdledconvents;thebreadthsofweather-stainedcitywall,andtheshaggycliffbeneath;thebatteries,withtheirgunspeacefullystaringthroughloop-holesofmasonry,andthered-coatedsergeantsflirtingwithnursery-maidsuponthecarriages,whilethechildrentumbledaboutoverthepyramidsofshotandshell;theslopingmarket-placebeforethecathedral,whereyetsomeremnantofthemorning’strafficlingeredundercanvascanopies,andwhereIsabelboughtabouquetofmarigoldsandastersofanoldwomanpeasantenoughtohavesolditinanymarket-placeofEurope;thesmall,darkshopsbeyondthequarterinvadedbyEnglishretailtrade;themovementofallthestrangefiguresofclericandlayandmilitarylife;thesoundofaforeignspeechprevailingovertheEnglish;theencounterofothertourists,thepassagebackandforththroughthedifferentcitygates;thepublicwoodenstairways,droppingflightafterflightfromtheUppertotheLowerTown;thebustleoftheport,withitscommerceandshippingandseafaringlifehuddledcloseinunderthehill;themanydesolatestreetsoftheLowerTown,asblackandruinousasthelastgreatfireleftthem;
  andthemarshymeadowsbeyond,memorableofRecolletsandJesuits,ofCartierandMontcalm。
  TheywenttothechapeloftheSeminaryatLavalUniversity,andadmiredtheLeBrun,andtheotherpaintingsoflessmerit,butequalinterestthroughtheirsuggestionofawholedimreligiousworldofpaintings;andthentheyspenthalfanhourinthecathedral,notsomuchinlookingattheCrucifixionbyVandyckwhichisthere,asinrevelingamidthefamiliarrococosplendorsofthetemple。Everyswaggeringstatueofasaint,everyrope-dancingangel,everycherubofthosethatonthecarvenandgildedcloudsabovethehighaltarfloat——
  “Likelittlewantonboysthatswimonbladders,“——
  wasprecioustothem;thesacristandustingthesacredpropertieswithafeatherbrush,andgivingeachshrineabusiness-likenodashepassed,wasasalong-lostbrother;theyhadheartsofaggressivetendernessfortheyounggirlsandoldwomenwhosteppedinforahalf-hour’sdevotion,andforthemenwithbourgeoisorpeasantfaces,whostoleamomentfromaffairsandcrops,andgaveittothesaints。TherewasnothingintheplacethatneedremindthemofAmerica,anditstastewasexactlythatofathousandotherchurchesoftheeighteenthcentury。TheycouldeasilyhavebelievedthemselvesinthefarthestCatholicSouth,butforthetwogreatporcelainstovesthatstoodoneithersideofthenaveneartheentrance,andthattoovividlyremindedthemofthepossibilityofcold。
  Infact,QuebecisalittlepainfulinthisandotherconfusionsoftheSouthandNorth,andoneneverquitereconcileshimselftothem。TheFrenchmen,whoexpectedtofindtheretheclimateoftheirnativeland,andripenherwinesinaskindlyasun,haveperpetuatedtheimageofhomeinsomanythings,thatitgoestotheheartwithapainfulemotiontofindthesad,obliquelightoftheNorthuponthem。AsyoupondersomecharacteristicaspectofQuebec,——abitofstreetwithheavystonehousesopeninguponastretchofthecitywall,withaLombardypoplarrisingslimagainstit,——yousay,toyoursatisfiedsoul,“Yes,itistherealthing!“andthenallatonceasenseofthatNorthernskystrikesinuponyou,andmakestherealityamerepicture。Theskyisblue,thesunisoftenfiercelyhot;youcouldnotperhapsprovethatthepatheticradianceisnotaneffluxofyourownconsciousnessthatsummerisbuthangingovertheland,brieflypoisingonwingswhichflitatthefirstdashofrain,andwillsoonvanishinlongretreatbeforethesnow。Butsomehow,fromwithoutorfromwithin,thatlightoftheNorthisthere。
  Itlaysaddest,ourtravellersthought,uponthelittlecirculargardennearDurhamTerrace,whereeverybrightnessoffallflowersabounded,——
  marigold,coxcomb,snap-dragon,dahlia,hollyhock,andsunflower。Itwasasubstantialandhardyefflorescence,andtheyfanciedthatfainter-
  heartedplantswouldhavepinedawayinthatgarden,wherethelittlefountain,leapingupintothejoylesslight,fellbackagainwithamusicalshiver。Theconsciousnessofthislatentcold,ofwinteronlyheldinabeyancebythebrightsun,wasnotdeeperevenintheoncemagnificent,nowneglectedGovernor’sGarden,wheretherewasactuallyarawnessinthelateafternoonair,andwhithertheywerestrollingfortheviewfromitsheight,andtopaytheirdutytotheobeliskraisedtheretothecommonfameofWolfeandMontcalm。ThesoundingLatininscriptioncelebratestheroyalgovernor-generalwhoerecteditalmostasmuchastheheroestowhomitwasraised;butthesespectatorsdidnotbegrudgethespacegiventohispraise,forsofineathoughtmeritedpraise。ItenforcedagaintheideaofakindposthumousfriendshipbetweenWolfeandMontcalm,whichgivestheirmemoryitsraredistinction,andunitesthem,whofellinfightagainsteachother,ascloselyasiftheyhadbothdiedforthesamecause。
  Somelastingdignityseemstolingeraboutthecitythathasoncebeenacapital;andthisodoroffallennobilitybelongstoQuebec,whichwasacapitalintheEuropeansense,withalltheadvantagesofasmallvice-
  regalcourt,anditssocialandpoliticalintrigues,intheFrenchtimes。
  UndertheEnglish,forahundredyearsitwasthecentreofColonialcivilizationandrefinement,withagovernor-general’sresidenceandabrilliant,easy,anddelightfulsociety,towhichthelargegarrisonofformerdaysgavegayetyandromance。Thehonorsofacapital,firstsharedwithMontrealandToronto,nowrestwithhalf-savageOttawa;andthegarrisonhasdwindledtoaregimentofrifles,whosepresencewouldhardlybeknown,butforthenattysergeantslounging,stickinhand,aboutthestreetsandcourtingthenurse-maids。ButinthedaysofoldtherewerescenesofcarnivalpleasureintheGovernor’sGarden,andtherethegarrisonbandstillplaysonceaweek,whenitisfilledbythefashionandbeautyofQuebec,andsomesemblanceofthepastisrecalled。
  Itisotherwisealonesome,indifferentlytendedplace,andonthisafternoontherewasnoonetherebutafewloafingyoungfellowsoflowdegree,FrenchandEnglish,andchildrenthatplayedscreamingfromseattoseatandpathtopathandoverthetoo-heavilyshadedgrass。Inspiteofaconspicuouswarningthatanydogenteringthegardenwouldbedestroyed,theplacewasthrongedwithdogsunmolestedandapparentlyinnodangerofthethreateneddoom。Thesealofadisagreeabledesolationwasgiveninthelegendrudelycarvedupononeofthebenches,“SuccesstotheIrishRepublic!“
  ThemorningofthenextdayourtouristsgavetohearingmassattheFrenchcathedral,whichwasnotdifferent,totheirhereticalsenses,fromanyothermass,exceptthattheceremonywasperformedwithaveryfullclericalforce,andwasattendedbyanuncommonlydevoutcongregation。WithEuropeconstantlyintheirminds,theywerebewilderedtofindtheworshippersnotchieflyoldandyoungwomen,butmenalsoofallagesandofeverydegree,fromtheneatpeasantinhisSabbath-daybesttothemodishyoungQuebecker,whospreadhishandkerchiefonthefloortosavehispantaloonsduringsupplication。
  Therewasfashionandeducationinlargedegreeamongthemen,andtherewasinallapiousattentiontothefunctioninpoeticalkeepingwiththeoriginandhistoryofacitywhichthezealoftheChurchhadfounded。
  Amagnificentbeadle,clothedinagold-lacedcoataidbearingasilverstaff,bowedtothemwhentheyentered,and,leadingthemtoapew,punchedupakneelingpeasant,whomutelyresumedhisprayersintheaisleoutside,whiletheytookhisplace。ItappearedtoIsabelveryunjustthattheircuriosityshoulddisplacehisreligion;butsheconsoledherselfbymakingBasilgiveashillingtothemanwho,precededbytheshiningbeadle,cameroundtotakeupacollection。Thepeasantcouldhavegivennothingbutcopper,andshefeltthatthisrestoredthelostbalanceofrighteousnessintheirfavor。Therewasasermon,verysweetlyandgracefullydeliveredbyayoungpriestofsingularbeauty,evenamongclergywhosegoodlooksaresonotableasthoseofQuebec;andthentheyfollowedtheorderlycrowdofworshippersout,andleftthecathedraltothesacristanandtheodorofincense。
  TheythoughtthetypeofFrench-CanadianbetterherethanatMontreal,andtheyparticularlynoticedthegreaternumberofprettyyounggirls。
  Allclasseswerewelldressed;forthoughthebestdressedcouldnotbecalledstylishaccordingtotheAmericanstandard,asIsabeldecided,andhadonlyaprovincialgentility,thepoorestworegarmentsthatwerecleanandwhole。Everybody,too,wasgoingtohaveahotSundaydinner,iftherewasanytruthintheodorsthatsteamedoutofeverydoorandwindow;andthisdinnerwastobeabundantlygarnishedwithonions,forthedullestnosecouldnoterrconcerningthatsavor。