FromthefortressIreturnedtomylodging,andquicklywastakenoutoftowntobeshownaprettyvilla,andEnglishgarden.ToaNorwegianbothmighthavebeenobjectsofcuriosity;andofuse,byexcitingtothecomparisonwhichleadstoimprovement.ButwhilstI
  gazed,Iwasemployedinrestoringtheplacetonature,ortaste,bygivingitthecharacterofthesurroundingscene.Serpentinewalks,andflowering—shrubs,lookedtriflinginagrandrecessoftherooks,shadedbytoweringpines.Grovesofsmallertreesmighthavebeenshelteredunderthem,whichwouldhavemeltedintothelandscape,displayingonlytheartwhichoughttopointoutthevicinityofahumanabode,furnishedwithsomeelegance.Butfewpeoplehavesufficienttastetodiscern,thattheartofembellishingconsistsininteresting,notinastonishing.
  Christianiaiscertainlyverypleasantlysituated,andtheenvironsIpassedthrough,duringthisride,affordedmanyfineandcultivatedprospects;but,exceptingthefirstviewapproachingtoit,rarelypresentanycombinationofobjectssostrikinglynew,orpicturesque,astocommandremembrance.Adieu!
  LETTERXIV.
  Christianiaisaclean,neatcity;butithasnoneofthegracesofarchitecture,whichoughttokeeppacewiththerefiningmannersofapeople——ortheoutsideofthehousewilldisgracetheinside,givingthebeholderanideaofovergrownwealthdevoidoftaste.
  Largesquarewoodenhousesoffendtheeye,displayingmorethanGothicbarbarism.HugeGothicpiles,indeed,exhibitacharacteristicsublimity,andawildnessoffancypeculiartotheperiodwhentheywereerected;butsize,withoutgrandeurorelegance,hasanemphaticalstampofmeanness,ofpovertyofconception,whichonlyacommercialspiritcouldgive.
  Thesamethoughthasstruckme,whenIhaveenteredthemeeting—
  houseofmyrespectedfriend,Dr.Price.Iamsurprisedthatthedissenters,whohavenotlaidasideallthepompsandvanitiesoflife,shouldimagineanoblepillar,orarch,unhallowed.Whilstmenhavesenses,whateversoothesthemlendswingstodevotion;elsewhydothebeautiesofnature,whereallthatcharmthemarespreadaroundwithalavishhand,forceeventhesorrowinghearttoacknowledgethatexistenceisablessing?andthisacknowledgmentisthemostsublimehomagewecanpaytotheDeity.
  Theargumentofconvenienceisabsurd.Whowouldlabourforwealth,ifitweretoprocurenothingbutconveniences.Ifwewishtorendermankindmoralfromprinciple,wemust,Iampersuaded,giveagreaterscopetotheenjoymentsofthesensesbyblendingtastewiththem.ThishasfrequentlyoccurredtomesinceIhavebeeninthenorth,andobservedthattheresanguinecharactersalwaystakerefugeindrunkennessafterthefireofyouthisspent.
  ButIhaveflownfromNorway.Togobacktothewoodenhouses;
  farmsconstructedwithlogs,andevenlittlevillages,hereerectedinthesamesimplemanner,haveappearedtomeverypicturesque.InthemoreremotepartsIhadbeenparticularlypleasedwithmanycottagessituatedclosetoabrook,orborderingonalake,withthewholefarmcontiguous.Asthefamilyincreases,alittlemorelandiscultivated;thusthecountryisobviouslyenrichedbypopulation.
  Formerlythefarmersmightmorejustlyhavebeentermedwoodcutters.
  Butnowtheyfinditnecessarytosparethewoodsalittle,andthischangewillbeuniversallybeneficial;forwhilsttheylivedentirelybysellingthetreestheyfelled,theydidnotpaysufficientattentiontohusbandry;consequently,advancedveryslowlyinagriculturalknowledge.Necessitywillinfuturemoreandmorespurthemon;fortheground,clearedofwood,mustbecultivated,orthefarmlosesitsvalue;thereisnowaitingforfoodtillanothergenerationofpinesbegrowntomaturity.
  Thepeopleofpropertyareverycarefuloftheirtimber;and,ramblingthroughaforestnearTonsberg,belongingtotheCount,I
  havestoppedtoadmiretheappearanceofsomeofthecottagesinhabitedbyawoodman’sfamily——amanemployedtocutdownthewoodnecessaryforthehouseholdandtheestate.Alittlelawnwascleared,onwhichseveralloftytreeswereleftwhichnaturehadgrouped,whilsttheencirclingfirssportedwithwildgrace.Thedwellingwasshelteredbytheforest,noblepinesspreadingtheirbranchesovertheroof;andbeforethedooracow,goat,nag,andchildren,seemedequallycontentwiththeirlot;andifcontentmentbeallwecanattain,itis,perhaps,bestsecuredbyignorance.
  AsIhavebeenmostdelightedwiththecountrypartsofNorway,I
  wassorrytoleaveChristianiawithoutgoingfarthertothenorth,thoughtheadvancingseasonadmonishedmetodepart,aswellasthecallsofbusinessandaffection.
  JuneandJulyarethemonthstomakeatourthroughNorway;forthentheeveningsandnightsarethefinestIhaveeverseen;buttowardsthemiddleorlatterendofAugustthecloudsbegintogather,andsummerdisappearsalmostbeforeithasripenedthefruitofautumn——
  even,asitwere,slipsfromyourembraces,whilstthesatisfiedsensesseemtorestinenjoyment.
  Youwillask,perhaps,whyIwishedtogofarthernorthward.Why?
  notonlybecausethecountry,fromallIcangather,ismostromantic,aboundinginforestsandlakes,andtheairpure,butI
  haveheardmuchoftheintelligenceoftheinhabitants,substantialfarmers,whohavenoneofthatcunningtocontaminatetheirsimplicity,whichdispleasedmesomuchintheconductofthepeopleontheseacoast.Amanwhohasbeendetectedinanydishonestactcannolongerliveamongthem.Heisuniversallyshunned,andshamebecomestheseverestpunishment.
  Suchacontempthavethey,infact,foreveryspeciesoffraud,thattheywillnotallowthepeopleonthewesterncoasttobetheircountrymen;somuchdotheydespisetheartsforwhichthosetraderswholiveontherocksarenotorious.
  ThedescriptionIreceivedofthemcarriedmebacktothefablesofthegoldenage:independenceandvirtue;affluencewithoutvice;
  cultivationofmind,withoutdepravityofheart;with"eversmilingLiberty;"thenymphofthemountain.Iwantfaith!
  MyimaginationhurriesmeforwardtoseekanasyluminsucharetreatfromallthedisappointmentsIamthreatenedwith;butreasondragsmeback,whisperingthattheworldisstilltheworld,andmanthesamecompoundofweaknessandfolly,whomustoccasionallyexciteloveanddisgust,admirationandcontempt.Butthisdescription,thoughitseemstohavebeensketchedbyafairypencil,wasgivenmebyamanofsoundunderstanding,whosefancyseldomappearstorunawaywithhim.
  AlawinNorway,termedtheodelsright,haslatelybeenmodified,andprobablywillbeabolishedasanimpedimenttocommerce.Theheirofanestatehadthepowerofre—purchasingitattheoriginalpurchasemoney,makingallowanceforsuchimprovementsaswereabsolutelynecessary,duringthespaceoftwentyyears.Atpresenttenisthetermallowedforafterthought;andwhentheregulationwasmade,allthemenofabilitieswereinvitedtogivetheiropinionwhetheritwerebettertoabrogateormodifyit.Itiscertainlyaconvenientandsafewayofmortgagingland;yetthemostrationalmenwhomIconversedwithonthesubjectseemedconvincedthattherightwasmoreinjuriousthanbeneficialtosociety;stillifitcontributetokeepthefarmsinthefarmers’ownhands,I
  shouldbesorrytohearthatitwereabolished.
  ThearistocracyinNorway,ifwekeepclearofChristiania,isfarfrombeingformidable;anditwillrequirealongthetoenablethemerchantstoattainasufficientmoneyedinteresttoinducethemtoreinforcetheupperclassattheexpenseoftheyeomanry,withwhomtheyareusuallyconnected.
  EnglandandAmericaowetheirlibertytocommerce,whichcreatednewspeciesofpowertounderminethefeudalsystem.Butletthembewareoftheconsequence;thetyrannyofwealthisstillmoregallinganddebasingthanthatofrank.
  Farewell!Imustprepareformydeparture.
  LETTERXV.
  IleftChristianiayesterday.Theweatherwasnotveryfine,andhavingbeenalittledelayedontheroad,Ifoundthatitwastoolatetogoround,acoupleofmiles,toseethecascadenearFredericstadt,whichIhaddeterminedtovisit.Besides,asFredericstadtisafortress,itwasnecessarytoarrivetherebeforetheyshutthegate.
  Theroadalongtheriverisveryromantic,thoughtheviewsarenotgrand;andtherichesofNorway,itstimber,floatssilentlydownthestream,oftenimpededinitscoursebyislandsandlittlecataracts,theoffspring,asitwere,ofthegreatoneIhadfrequentlyhearddescribed.
  IfoundanexcellentinnatFredericstadt,andwasgratifiedbythekindattentionofthehostess,who,perceivingthatmyclotheswerewet,tookgreatpainsprocureme,asastranger,everycomfortforthenight.
  Ithadrainedveryhard,andwepassedtheferryinthedarkwithoutgettingoutofourcarriage,whichIthinkwrong,asthehorsesaresometimesunruly.Fatigueandmelancholy,however,hadmademeregardlesswhetherIwentdownoracrossthestream,andIdidnotknowthatIwaswetbeforethehostessmarkedit.Myimaginationhasneveryetseveredmefrommygriefs,andmymindhasseldombeensofreeastoallowmybodytobedelicate.
  HowIamalteredbydisappointment!WhengoingtoLisbon,theelasticityofmymindwassufficienttowardoffweariness,andmyimaginationstillcoulddipherbrushintherainbowoffancy,andsketchfuturityinglowingcolours.Now——butletmetalkofsomethingelse——willyougowithmetothecascade?
  Thecrossroadtoitwasruggedanddreary;andthoughaconsiderableextentoflandwascultivatedonallsides,yettherockswereentirelybare,whichsurprisedme,astheyweremoreonalevelwiththesurfacethananyIhadyetseen.Oninquiry,however,Ilearntthatsomeyearssinceaforesthadbeenburnt.
  Thisappearanceofdesolationwasbeyondmeasuregloomy,inspiringemotionsthatsterilityhadneverproduced.Firesofthiskindareoccasionedbythewindsuddenlyrisingwhenthefarmersareburningrootsoftrees,stalksofbeans,&c,withwhichtheymanuretheground.Thedevastationmust,indeed,beterrible,whenthis,literallyspeaking,wildfire,runsalongtheforest,flyingfromtoptotop,andcracklingamongstthebranches.Thesoil,aswellasthetrees,issweptawaybythedestructivetorrent;andthecountry,despoiledofbeautyandriches,islefttomournforages.
  Admiring,asIdo,thesenobleforests,whichseemtobiddefiancetotime,Ilookedwithpainontheridgeofrocksthatstretchedfarbeyondmyeye,formerlycrownedwiththemostbeautifulverdure.
  Ihaveoftenmentionedthegrandeur,butIfeelmyselfunequaltothetaskofconveyinganideaofthebeautyandeleganceofthescenewhenthespirytopsofthepinesareloadedwithripeningseed,andthesungivesaglowtotheirlight—greentinge,whichischangingintopurple,onetreemoreorlessadvancedcontrastedwithanother.TheprofusionwithwhichNaturehasdeckedthemwithpendanthonours,preventsallsurpriseatseeingineverycrevicesomesaplingstrugglingforexistence.Vastmassesofstonearethusencircled,androotstornupbythestormsbecomeashelterforayounggeneration.Thepineandfirwoods,leftentirelytoNature,displayanendlessvariety;andthepathsinthewoodsarenotentangledwithfallenleaves,whichareonlyinterestingwhilsttheyareflutteringbetweenlifeanddeath.Thegreycobweb—likeappearanceoftheagedpinesisamuchfinerimageofdecay;thefibreswhiteningastheylosetheirmoisture,imprisonedlifeseemstobestealingaway.Icannottellwhy,butdeath,undereveryform,appearstomelikesomethinggettingfreetoexpandinIknownotwhatelement——nay,Ifeelthatthisconsciousbeingmustbeasunfettered,havethewingsofthought,beforeitcanbehappy.
  Reachingthecascade,orrathercataract,theroaringofwhichhadalongtimeannounceditsvicinity,mysoulwashurriedbythefallsintoanewtrainofreflections.Theimpetuousdashingofthereboundingtorrentfromthedarkcavitieswhichmockedtheexploringeyeproducedanequalactivityinmymind.Mythoughtsdartedfromearthtoheaven,andIaskedmyselfwhyIwaschainedtolifeanditsmisery.Stillthetumultuousemotionsthissublimeobjectexcitedwerepleasurable;and,viewingit,mysoulrosewithreneweddignityaboveitscares.Graspingatimmortality——itseemedasimpossibletostopthecurrentofmythoughts,asofthealwaysvarying,stillthesame,torrentbeforeme;Istretchedoutmyhandtoeternity,boundingoverthedarkspeckoflifetocome.
  Weturnedwithregretfromthecascade.Onalittlehill,whichcommandsthebestviewofit,severalobelisksareerectedtocommemoratethevisitsofdifferentkings.Theappearanceoftheriveraboveandbelowthefallsisverypicturesque,theruggednessofthescenerydisappearingasthetorrentsubsidesintoapeacefulstream.ButIdidnotliketoseeanumberofsaw—millscrowdedtogetherclosetothecataracts;theydestroyedtheharmonyoftheprospect.
  Thesightofabridgeerectedacrossadeepvalley,atalittledistance,inspiredverydissimilarsensations.Itwasmostingeniouslysupportedbymast—liketrunks,juststrippedoftheirbranches;andlogs,placedoneacrosstheother,producedanappearanceequallylightandfirm,seemingalmosttobebuiltintheairwhenwewerebelowit,theheighttakingfromthemagnitudeofthesupportingtreesgivethemaslendergracefullook.
  Therearetwonobleestatesinthisneighbourhood,theproprietorsofwhichseemtohavecaughtmorethantheirportionoftheenterprisingspiritthatisgoneabroad.Manyagriculturalexperimentshavebeenmade,andthecountryappearsbetterenclosedandcultivated,yetthecottageshadnotthecomfortableaspectofthoseIhadobservednearMossandtothewestward.Manisalwaysdebasedbyservitudeofanydescription,andherethepeasantryarenotentirelyfree.Adieu!
  IalmostforgottotellyouthatIdidnotleaveNorwaywithoutmakingsomeinquiriesafterthemonsterssaidtohavebeenseeninthenorthernsea;butthoughIconversedwithseveralcaptains,I
  couldnotmeetwithonewhohadeverheardanytraditionaldescriptionofthem,muchlesshadanyoculardemonstrationoftheirexistence.Tillthefactisbetterascertained,Ishouldthinktheaccountofthemoughttobetornoutofourgeographicalgrammars.
  LETTERXVI.
  IsetoutfromFredericstadtaboutthreeo’clockintheafternoon,andexpectedtoreachStromstadbeforethenightclosedin;butthewinddyingaway,theweatherbecamesocalmthatwescarcelymadeanyperceptibleadvancestowardstheoppositecoast,thoughthemenwerefatiguedwithrowing.
  Gettingamongsttherocksandislandsasthemoonrose,andthestarsdartedforwardoutoftheclearexpanse,Iforgotthatthenightstoleonwhilstindulgingaffectionatereveries,thepoeticalfictionsofsensibility;Iwasnot,therefore,awareofthelengthoftimewehadbeentoilingtoreachStromstad.AndwhenIbegantolookaround,Ididnotperceiveanythingtoindicatethatwewereinitsneighbourhood.Sofarfromit,thatwhenIinquiredofthepilot,whospokealittleEnglish,IfoundthathewasonlyaccustomedtocoastalongtheNorwegianshore;andhadbeenonlyonceacrosstoStromstad.Buthehadbroughtwithhimafellowbetteracquainted,heassuredme,withtherocksbywhichtheyweretosteerourcourse,forwehadnotacompassonboard;yet,ashewashalfafool,Ihadlittleconfidenceinhisskill.Therewasthengreatreasontofearthatwehadlostourway,andwerestrayingamidstalabyrinthofrockswithoutaclue.
  Thiswassomethinglikeanadventure,butnotofthemostagreeablecast;besides,IwasimpatienttoarriveatStromstad,tobeabletosendforwardthatnightaboytoorderhorsesontheroadtobeready,forIwasunwillingtoremainthereadaywithouthavinganythingtodetainmefrommylittlegirl,andfromtheletterswhichIwasimpatienttogetfromyou.
  Ibegantoexpostulate,andeventoscoldthepilot,fornothavinginformedmeofhisignoranceprevioustomydeparture.Thismadehimrowwithmoreforce,andweturnedroundonerockonlytoseeanother,equallydestituteofthetokenswewereinsearchoftotelluswherewewere.Enteringalsointocreekaftercreekwhichpromisedtobetheentranceofthebaywewereseeking,weadvancedmerelytofindourselvesrunningaground.
  Thesolitarinessofthescene,asweglidedunderthedarkshadowsoftherocks,pleasedmeforawhile;butthefearofpassingthewholenightthuswanderingtoandfro,andlosingthenextday,rousedme.Ibeggedthepilottoreturntooneofthelargestislands,atthesideofwhichwehadseenaboatmoored.Aswedrewnearer,alightthroughawindowonthesummitbecameourbeacon;
  butwewerefartheroffthanIsupposed.
  Withsomedifficultythepilotgotonshore,notdistinguishingthelanding—place;andIremainedintheboat,knowingthatallthereliefwecouldexpectwasamantodirectus.Afterwaitingsometime,forthereisaninsensibilityintheverymovementsofthesepeoplethatwouldwearymorethanordinarypatience,hebroughtwithhimamanwho,assistingthemtorow,welandedatStromstadalittleafteroneinthemorning.
  Itwastoolatetosendoffaboy,butIdidnotgotobedbeforeI
  hadmadethearrangementsnecessarytoenablemetosetoutasearlyaspossible.
  Thesunrosewithsplendour.Mymindwastooactivetoallowmetoloiterlonginbed,thoughthehorsesdidnotarrivetillbetweensevenandeight.However,asIwishedtolettheboy,whowentforwardtoorderthehorses,getconsiderablythestartofme,I
  bridledinmyimpatience.
  Thisprecautionwasunavailing,forafterthethreefirstpostsI
  hadtowaittwohours,whilstthepeopleatthepost—housewent,fairandsoftly,tothefarm,tobidthembringupthehorseswhichwerecarryinginthefirst—fruitsoftheharvest.Idiscoveredherethatthesesluggishpeasantshadtheirshareofcunning.Thoughtheyhadmademepayforahorse,theboyhadgoneonfoot,andonlyarrivedhalfanhourbeforeme.Thisdisconcertedthewholearrangementoftheday;andbeingdetainedagainthreehours,I
  reluctantlydeterminedtosleepatQuistram,twopostsshortofUddervalla,whereIhadhopedtohavearrivedthatnight.
  ButwhenIreachedQuistramIfoundIcouldnotapproachthedooroftheinnformen,horses,andcarts,cows,andpigshuddledtogether.
  FromtheconcourseofpeopleIhadmetontheroadIconjecturedthattherewasafairintheneighbourhood;thiscrowdconvincedmethatitwasbuttootrue.Theboisterousmerrimentthatalmosteveryinstantproducedaquarrel,ormademedreadone,withthecloudsoftobacco,andfumesofbrandy,gaveaninfernalappearancetothescene.Therewaseverythingtodrivemeback,nothingtoexcitesympathyinarudetumultofthesenses,whichIforesawwouldendinagrossdebauch.Whatwastobedone?Nobedwastobehad,orevenaquietcornertoretiretoforamoment;allwaslostinnoise,riot,andconfusion.
  Aftersomedebatingtheypromisedmehorses,whichweretogoontoUddervalla,twostages.Irequestedsomethingtoeatfirst,nothavingdined;andthehostess,whomIhavementionedtoyoubeforeasknowinghowtotakecareofherself,broughtmeaplateoffish,forwhichshechargedarix—dollarandahalf.Thiswasmakinghaywhilstthesunshone.Iwasgladtogetoutoftheuproar,thoughnotdisposedtotravelinanincommodiousopencarriageallnight,hadIthoughtthattherewasanychanceofgettinghorses.
  QuittingQuistramImetanumberofjoyousgroups,andthoughtheeveningwasfreshmanywerestretchedonthegrasslikewearycattle;anddrunkenmenhadfallenbytheroad—side.Onarock,undertheshadeofloftytrees,alargepartyofmenandwomenhadlightedafire,cuttingdownfuelaroundtokeepitaliveallnight.
  Theyweredrinking,smoking,andlaughingwithalltheirmightandmain.Ifeltforthetreeswhosetornbranchesstrewedtheground.
  Haplessnymphs!yourhaunts,Ifear,werepollutedbymanyanunhallowedflame,thecasualburstofthemoment!
  Thehorseswentonverywell;butwhenwedrewnearthepost—housethepostillionstoppedshortandneitherthreatsnorpromisescouldprevailonhimtogoforward.HeevenbegantohowlandweepwhenI
  insistedonhiskeepinghisword.Nothing,indeed,canequalthestupidobstinacyofsomeofthesehalf—alivebeings,whoseemtohavebeenmadebyPrometheuswhenthefirehestolefromHeavenwassoexhaustedthathecouldonlyspareasparktogivelife,notanimation,totheinertclay.
  Itwassometimebeforewecouldrouseanybody;and,asIexpected,horses,weweretold,couldnotbehadinlessthanfourorfivehours.Iagainattemptedtobribethechurlishbrutewhobroughtusthere,butIdiscoveredthat,inspiteofthecourteoushostess’spromises,hehadreceivedordersnottogoanyfather.
  AstherewasnoremedyIentered,andwasalmostdrivenbackbythestench——asofterphrasewouldnothaveconveyedanideaofthehotvapourthatissuedfromanapartmentinwhichsomeeightortenpeopleweresleeping,nottoreckonthecatsanddogsstretchedonthefloor.Twoorthreeofthemenorwomenwereonthebenches,othersonoldchests;andonefigurestartedhalfoutofatrunktolookatme,whommighthavetakenforaghost,hadthechemisebeenwhite,tocontrastwiththesallowvisage.ButthecostumeofapparitionsnotbeingpreservedIpassed,nothingdreading,exceptingtheeffluvia,warilyamongstthepots,pans,milk—pails,andwashing—tubs.AfterscalingaruinousstaircaseIwasshownabed—chamber.Thebeddidnotinvitemetoenter;opening,therefore,thewindow,andtakingsomecleantowelsoutofmynight—
  sack,Ispreadthemoverthecoverlid,onwhichtiredNaturefoundrepose,inspiteofthepreviousdisgust.
  Withthegreyofthemornthebirdsawokeme;anddescendingtoinquireforthehorses,IhastenedthroughtheapartmentIhavealreadydescribed,notwishingtoassociatetheideaofapigstyewiththatofahumandwelling.
  Idonotnowwonderthatthegirlslosetheirfinecomplexionsatsuchanearlyage,orthatlovehereismerelyanappetitetofulfilthemaindesignofNature,neverenlivenedbyeitheraffectionorsentiment.
  Forafewpostswefoundthehorseswaiting;butafterwardsIwasretarded,asbefore,bythepeasants,who,takingadvantageofmyignoranceofthelanguage,mademepayforthefourthhorsethatoughttohavegoneforwardtohavetheothersinreadiness,thoughithadneverbeensent.Iwasparticularlyimpatientatthelastpost,asIlongedtoassuremyselfthatmychildwaswell.
  Myimpatience,however,didnotpreventmyenjoyingthejourney.I
  hadsixweeksbeforepassedoverthesameground;stillithadsufficientnoveltytoattractmyattention,andbeguile,ifnotbanish,thesorrowthathadtakenupitsabodeinmyheart.HowinterestingarethevariedbeautiesofNature,andwhatpeculiarcharmscharacteriseeachseason!Thepurplehuewhichtheheathnowassumedgaveitadegreeofrichnessthatalmostexceededthelustreoftheyounggreenofspring,andharmonisedexquisitelywiththeraysoftheripeningcorn.Theweatherwasuninterruptedlyfine,andthepeoplebusyinthefieldscuttingdownthecorn,orbindingupthesheaves,continuallyvariedtheprospect.Therocks,itistrue,wereunusuallyruggedanddreary;yetastheroadrunsforaconsiderablewaybythesideofafineriver,withextendedpasturesontheotherside,theimageofsterilitywasnotthepredominantobject,thoughthecottageslookedstillmoremiserable,afterhavingseentheNorwegianfarms.Thetreeslikewiseappearedofmegrowthofyesterday,comparedwiththoseNestorsoftheforestI
  havefrequentlymentioned.Thewomenandchildrenwerecuttingoffbranchesfromthebeech,birch,oak,&c,andleavingthemtodry.
  Thiswayofhelpingouttheirfodderinjuresthetrees.Butthewintersaresolongthatthepoorcannotaffordtolayinasufficientstockofhay.Bysuchmeanstheyjustkeeplifeinthepoorcows,forlittlemilkcanbeexpectedwhentheyaresomiserablyfed.
  ItwasSaturday,andtheeveningwasuncommonlyserene.InthevillagesIeverywheresawpreparationsforSunday;andIpassedbyalittlecarloadedwithrye,thatpresented,forthepencilandheart,thesweetestpictureofaharvesthomeIhadeverbeheld.A
  littlegirlwasmounteda—straddleonashaggyhorse,brandishingastickoveritshead;thefatherwaswalkingatthesideofthecarwithachildinhisarms,whomusthavecometomeethimwithtotteringsteps;thelittlecreaturewasstretchingoutitsarmstoclingroundhisneck;andaboy,justabovepetticoats,waslabouringhardwithaforkbehindtokeepthesheavesfromfalling.
  Myeyesfollowedthemtothecottage,andaninvoluntarysighwhisperedtomyheartthatIenviedthemother,muchasIdislikecooking,whowaspreparingtheirpottage.Iwasreturningtomybabe,whomayneverexperienceafather’scareortenderness.Thebosomthatnurturedherheavedwithapangatthethoughtwhichonlyanunhappymothercouldfeel.
  Adieu!
  LETTERXVII.
  IwasunwillingtoleaveGothenburgwithoutvisitingTrolhaettae.I
  wishednotonlytoseethecascade,buttoobservetheprogressofthestupendousattempttoformacanalthroughtherocks,totheextentofanEnglishmileandahalf.
  Thisworkiscarriedonbyacompany,whoemploydailyninehundredmen;fiveyearswasthetimementionedintheproposalsaddressedtothepublicasnecessaryforthecompletion.Amuchmoreconsiderablesumthantheplanrequireshasbeensubscribed,forwhichthereiseveryreasontosupposethepromoterswillreceiveampleinterest.
  TheDanessurveytheprogressofthisworkwithajealouseye,asitisprincipallyundertakentogetclearoftheSoundduty.
  ArrivedatTrolhaettae,Imustownthatthefirstviewofthecascadedisappointedme;andthesightoftheworks,astheyadvanced,thoughagrandproofofhumanindustry,wasnotcalculatedtowarmthefancy.I,however,wanderedabout;andatlastcomingtotheconfluxofthevariouscataractsrushingfromdifferentfalls,strugglingwiththehugemassesofrock,andreboundingfromtheprofoundcavities,Iimmediatelyretracted,acknowledgingthatitwasindeedagrandobject.Alittleislandstoodinthemidst,coveredwithfirs,which,bydividingthetorrent,rendereditmorepicturesque;onehalfappearingtoissuefromadarkcavern,thatfancymighteasilyimagineavastfountainthrowingupitswatersfromtheverycentreoftheearth.
  IgazedIknownothowlong,stunnedwiththenoise,andgrowinggiddywithonlylookingatthenever—ceasingtumultuousmotion,I
  listened,scarcelyconsciouswhereIwas,whenIobservedaboy,halfobscuredbythesparklingfoam,fishingundertheimpendingrockontheotherside.HowhehaddescendedIcouldnotperceive;
  nothinglikehumanfootstepsappeared,andthehorrificcragsseemedtobiddefianceeventothegoat’sactivity.Itlookedlikeanabodeonlyfitfortheeagle,thoughinitscrevicessomepinesdarteduptheirspiralheads;buttheyonlygrewnearthecascade,everywhereelsesterilityitselfreignedwithdrearygrandeur;forthehugegreymassyrocks,whichprobablyhadbeentornasunderbysomedreadfulconvulsionofnature,hadnoteventheirfirstcoveringofalittlecleavingmoss.Thereweresomanyappearancestoexcitetheideaofchaos,that,insteadofadmiringthecanalandtheworks,greatastheyaretermed,andlittleastheyappear,I
  couldnothelpregrettingthatsuchanoblescenehadnotbeenleftinallitssolitarysublimity.Amidsttheawfulroaringoftheimpetuoustorrents,thenoiseofhumaninstrumentsandthebustleofworkmen,eventheblowingupoftherockswhengrandmassestrembledinthedarkenedair,onlyresembledtheinsignificantsportofchildren.
  Onefallofwater,partlymadebyart,whentheywereattemptingtoconstructsluices,hadanuncommonlygrandeffect;thewaterprecipitateditselfwithimmensevelocitydownaperpendicular,atleastfiftyorsixtyyards,intoagulf,soconcealedbythefoamastogivefullplaytothefancy.Therewasacontinualuproar.I
  stoodonarocktoobserveit,akindofbridgeformedbynature,nearlyonalevelwiththecommencementofthefall.AftermusingbyitalongtimeIturnedtowardstheotherside,andsawagentlestreamstraycalmlyout.IshouldhaveconcludedthatithadnocommunicationwiththetorrenthadInotseenahugelogthatfellheadlongdownthecascadestealpeacefullyintothepurlingstream.
  Iretiredfromthesewildsceneswithregrettoamiserableinn,andnextmorningreturnedtoGothenburg,toprepareformyjourneytoCopenhagen.
  IwassorrytoleaveGothenburgwithouttravellingfartherintoSweden,yetIimagineIshouldonlyhaveseenaromanticcountrythinlyinhabited,andtheseinhabitantsstrugglingwithpoverty.
  TheNorwegianpeasantry,mostlyindependent,havearoughkindoffranknessintheirmanner;buttheSwedish,renderedmoreabjectbymisery,haveadegreeofpolitenessintheiraddresswhich,thoughitmaysometimesborderoninsincerity,isoftenertheeffectofabrokenspirit,rathersoftenedthandegradedbywretchedness.
  InNorwaytherearenonotesincirculationoflessvaluethanaSwedishrix—dollar.Asmallsilvercoin,commonlynotworthmorethanapenny,andnevermorethantwopence,servesforchange;butinSwedentheyhavenotesaslowassixpence.Ineversawanysilverpiecesthere,andcouldnotwithoutdifficulty,andgivingapremium,obtainthevalueofarix—dollarinalargecoppercointogiveawayontheroadtothepoorwhoopenthegates.
  AsanotherproofofthepovertyofSweden,Ioughttomentionthatforeignmerchantswhohaveacquiredafortunethereareobligedtodepositthesixthpartwhentheyleavethekingdom.Thislaw,youmaysuppose,isfrequentlyevaded.
  Infact,thelawshere,aswellasinNorway,aresorelaxedthattheyratherfavourthanrestrainknavery.
  WhilstIwasatGothenburg,amanwhohadbeenconfinedforbreakingopenhismaster’sdeskandrunningawaywithfiveorsixthousandrix—dollars,wasonlysentencedtofortydays’confinementonbreadandwater;andthisslightpunishmenthisrelationsrenderednugatorybysupplyinghimwithmoresavouryfood.
  TheSwedesareingeneralattachedtotheirfamilies,yetadivorcemaybeobtainedbyeitherpartyonprovingtheinfidelityoftheotheroracknowledgingitthemselves.Thewomendonotoftenrecurtothisequalprivilege,fortheyeitherretaliateontheirhusbandsbyfollowingtheirowndevicesorsinkintothemerestdomesticdrudges,worndownbytyrannytoservilesubmission.DonottermmesevereifIadd,thatafteryouthisflownthehusbandbecomesasot,andthewifeamusesherselfbyscoldingherservants.Infact,whatistobeexpectedinanycountrywheretasteandcultivationofminddonotsupplytheplaceofyouthfulbeautyandanimalspirits?
  Affectionrequiresafirmerfoundationthansympathy,andfewpeoplehaveaprincipleofactionsufficientlystabletoproducerectitudeoffeeling;forinspiteofalltheargumentsIhaveheardtojustifydeviationsfromduty,Iampersuadedthateventhemostspontaneoussensationsaremoreunderthedirectionofprinciplethanweakpeoplearewillingtoallow.
  Butadieutomoralising.IhavebeenwritingtheselastsheetsataninninElsineur,whereIamwaitingforhorses;andastheyarenotyetready,IwillgiveyouashortaccountofmyjourneyfromGothenburg,forIsetoutthemorningafterIreturnedfromTrolhaettae.
  Thecountryduringthefirstday’sjourneypresentedamostbarrenappearance,asrocky,yetnotsopicturesqueasNorway,becauseonadiminutivescale.WestoppedtosleepatatolerableinninFalckersberg,adecentlittletown.
  Thenextdaybeechesandoaksbegantogracetheprospects,theseaeverynowandthenappearingtogivethemdignity.Icouldnotavoidobservingalso,thateveninthispartofSweden,oneofthemoststerile,asIwasinformed,therewasmoregroundundercultivationthaninNorway.Plainsofvariedcropsstretchedouttoaconsiderableextent,andslopeddowntotheshore,nolongerterrific.And,asfarasIcouldjudge,fromglancingmyeyeoverthecountryaswedrovealong,agriculturewasinamoreadvancedstate,thoughinthehabitationsagreaterappearanceofpovertystillremained.Thecottages,indeed,oftenlookedmostuncomfortable,butneversomiserableasthoseIhadremarkedontheroadtoStromstad,andthetownswereequal,ifnotsuperior,tomanyofthelittletownsinWales,orsomeIhavepassedthroughinmywayfromCalaistoParis.
  Theinnsasweadvancedwerenottobecomplainedof,unlessIhadalwaysthoughtofEngland.Thepeoplewerecivil,andmuchmoremoderateintheirdemandsthantheNorwegians,particularlytothewestward,wheretheyboldlychargeforwhatyouneverhad,andseemtoconsideryou,astheydoawreck,ifnotaslawfulprey,yetasaluckychance,whichtheyoughtnottoneglecttoseize.
  TheprospectofElsineur,aswepassedtheSound,waspleasant.I
  gavethreerix—dollarsformyboat,includingsomethingtodrink.I
  mentionthesum,becausetheyimposeonstrangers.
  Adieu!tillIarriveatCopenhagen.
  LETTERXVIII.——COPENHAGEN.
  ThedistancefromElsineurtoCopenhagenistwenty—twomiles;theroadisverygood,overaflatcountrydiversifiedwithwood,mostlybeech,anddecentmansions.Thereappearedtobeagreatquantityofcornland,andthesoillookedmuchmorefertilethanitisingeneralsonearthesea.Therisinggrounds,indeed,wereveryfew,andaroundCopenhagenitisaperfectplain;ofcoursehasnothingtorecommenditbutcultivation,notdecorations.IfIsaythatthehousesdidnotdisgustme,ItellyouallIrememberofthem,forI
  cannotrecollectanypleasurablesensationstheyexcited,orthatanyobject,producedbynatureorart,tookmeoutofmyself.Theviewofthecity,aswedrewnear,wasrathergrand,butwithoutanystrikingfeaturetointeresttheimagination,exceptingthetreeswhichshadethefootpaths.
  JustbeforeIreachedCopenhagenIsawanumberoftentsonawideplain,andsupposedthattherageforencampmentshadreachedthiscity;butIsoondiscoveredthattheyweretheasylumofmanyofthepoorfamilieswhohadbeendrivenoutoftheirhabitationsbythelatefire.
  Enteringsoonafter,Ipassedamongstthedustandrubbishithadleft,affrightedbyviewingtheextentofthedevastation,foratleastaquarterofthecityhadbeendestroyed.Therewaslittleintheappearanceoffallenbricksandstacksofchimneystoalluretheimaginationintosoothingmelancholyreveries;nothingtoattracttheeyeoftaste,butmuchtoafflictthebenevolentheart.Thedepredationsoftimehavealwayssomethinginthemtoemploythefancy,orleadtomusingonsubjectswhich,withdrawingthemindfromobjectsofsense,seemtogiveitnewdignity;buthereIwastreadingonliveashes.Thesuffererswerestillunderthepressureofthemiseryoccasionedbythisdreadfulconflagration.Icouldnottakerefugeinthethought:theysuffered,buttheyarenomore!areflectionIfrequentlysummontocalmmymindwhensympathyrisestoanguish.Ithereforedesiredthedrivertohastentothehotelrecommendedtome,thatImightavertmyeyesandsnapthetrainofthinkingwhichhadsentmeintoallthecornersofthecityinsearchofhouselessheads.
  ThismorningIhavebeenwalkingroundthetown,tillIamwearyofobservingtheravages.IhadoftenheardtheDanes,eventhosewhohadseenParisandLondon,speakofCopenhagenwithrapture.
  CertainlyIhaveseenitinaverydisadvantageouslight,someofthebeststreetshavingbeenburnt,andthewholeplacethrownintoconfusion.Stilltheutmostthatcan,orcouldever,Ibelieve,havebeensaidinitspraise,mightbecomprisedinafewwords.
  Thestreetsareopen,andmanyofthehouseslarge;butIsawnothingtorousetheideaofeleganceorgrandeur,ifIexceptthecircuswherethekingandprinceroyalreside.
  Thepalace,whichwasconsumedabouttwoyearsago,musthavebeenahandsome,spaciousbuilding;thestone—workisstillstanding,andagreatnumberofthepoor,duringthelatefire,tookrefugeinitsruinstilltheycouldfindsomeotherabode.Bedswerethrownonthelanding—placesofthegrandstaircase,wherewholefamiliescreptfromthecold,andeverylittlenookisboardedupasaretreatforsomepoorcreaturesdeprivedoftheirhome.Atpresentaroofmaybesufficienttoshelterthemfromthenightair;butastheseasonadvances,theextentofthecalamitywillbemoreseverelyfelt,Ifear,thoughtheexertionsonthepartofGovernmentareveryconsiderable.Privatecharityhasalso,nodoubt,donemuchtoalleviatethemiserywhichobtrudesitselfateveryturn;still,publicspiritappearstometobehardlyalivehere.Haditexisted,theconflagrationmighthavebeensmotheredinthebeginning,asitwasatlast,bytearingdownseveralhousesbeforetheflameshadreachedthem.Tothistheinhabitantswouldnotconsent;andtheprinceroyalnothavingsufficientenergyofcharactertoknowwhenheoughttobeabsolute,calmlyletthempursuetheirowncourse,tillthewholecityseemedtobethreatenedwithdestruction.Adhering,withpuerilescrupulosity,tothelawwhichhehasimposedonhimself,ofactingexactlyright,hedidwrongbyidlylamentingwhilsthemarkedtheprogressofamischiefthatonedecidedstepwouldhavestopped.Hewasafterwardsobligedtoresorttoviolentmeasures;butthen,whocouldblamehim?And,toavoidcensure,whatsacrificesarenotmadebyweakminds?
  Agentlemanwhowasawitnessofthesceneassuredme,likewise,thatifthepeopleofpropertyhadtakenhalfasmuchpainstoextinguishthefireastopreservetheirvaluablesandfurniture,itwouldsoonhavebeengotunder.Buttheywhowerenotimmediatelyindangerdidnotexertthemselvessufficiently,tillfear,likeanelectricalshock,rousedalltheinhabitantstoasenseofthegeneralevil.Eventhefire—engineswereoutoforder,thoughtheburningofthepalaceoughttohaveadmonishedthemofthenecessityofkeepingtheminconstantrepair.ButthiskindofindolencerespectingwhatdoesnotimmediatelyconcernthemseemstocharacterisetheDanes.Asluggishconcentrationinthemselvesmakesthemsocarefultopreservetheirproperty,thattheywillnotventureonanyenterprisetoincreaseitinwhichthereisashadowofhazard.
  ConsideringCopenhagenasthecapitalofDenmarkandNorway,IwassurprisednottoseesomuchindustryortasteasinChristiania.
  Indeed,fromeverythingIhavehadanopportunityofobserving,theDanesarethepeoplewhohavemadethefewestsacrificestothegraces.
  Themenofbusinessaredomestictyrants,coldlyimmersedintheirownaffairs,andsoignorantofthestateofothercountries,thattheydogmaticallyassertthatDenmarkisthehappiestcountryintheworld;thePrinceRoyalthebestofallpossibleprinces;andCountBernstorffthewisestofministers.
  Asforthewomen,theyaresimplynotablehousewives;withoutaccomplishmentsoranyofthecharmsthatadornmoreadvancedsociallife.Thistotalignorancemayenablethemtosavesomethingintheirkitchens,butitisfarfromrenderingthembetterparents.
  Onthecontrary,thechildrenarespoiled,astheyusuallyarewhenlefttothecareofweak,indulgentmothers,whohavingnoprincipleofactiontoregulatetheirfeelings,becometheslavesofinfants,enfeeblingbothbodyandmindbyfalsetenderness.
  Iam,perhaps,alittleprejudiced,asIwritefromtheimpressionofthemoment;forIhavebeentormentedto—daybythepresenceofunrulychildren,andmadeangrybysomeinvectivesthrownoutagainstthematernalcharacteroftheunfortunateMatilda.Shewascensured,withthemostcruelinsinuation,forhermanagementofherson,though,fromwhatIcouldgather,shegaveproofsofgoodsenseaswellastendernessinherattentiontohim.Sheusedtobathehimherselfeverymorning;insistedonhisbeinglooselyclad;andwouldnotpermithisattendantstoinjurehisdigestionbyhumouringhisappetite.Shewasequallycarefultopreventhisacquiringhaughtyairs,andplayingthetyrantinleading—strings.TheQueenDowagerwouldnotpermithertosucklehim;butthenextchildbeingadaughter,andnottheHeir—ApparentoftheCrown,lessoppositionwasmadetoherdischargingthedutyofamother.
  PoorMatilda!thouhasthauntedmeeversincemayarrival;andtheviewIhavehadofthemannersofthecountry,excitingmysympathy,hasincreasedmyrespectforthymemory.
  Iamnowfullyconvincedthatshewasthevictimofthepartyshedisplaced,whowouldhaveoverlookedorencouragedherattachment,hadnotherlover,aimingatbeinguseful,attemptedtooverturnsomeestablishedabusesbeforethepeople,ripeforthechange,hadsufficientspirittosupporthimwhenstrugglingintheirbehalf.
  SuchindeedwastheasperitysharpenedagainstherthatIhaveheardher,evenaftersomanyyearshaveelapsed,chargedwithlicentiousness,notonlyforendeavouringtorenderthepublicamusementsmoreelegant,butforherverycharities,becausesheerected,amongstotherinstitutions,ahospitaltoreceivefoundlings.Disgustedwithmanycustomswhichpassforvirtues,thoughtheyarenothingmorethanobservancesofforms,oftenattheexpenseoftruth,sheprobablyranintoanerrorcommontoinnovators,inwishingtodoimmediatelywhatcanonlybedonebytime.
  ManyverycogentreasonshavebeenurgedbyherfriendstoprovethatheraffectionforStruenseewasnevercarriedtothelengthallegedagainstherbythosewhofearedherinfluence.Bethatasitmayshecertainlywasnoawomanofgallantry,andifshehadanattachmentforhimitdidnotdisgraceherheartorunderstanding,thekingbeinganotoriousdebaucheeandanidiotintothebargain.
  Astheking’sconducthadalwaysbeendirectedbysomefavourite,theyalsoendeavouredtogovernhim,fromaprincipleofself—
  preservationaswellasalaudableambition;but,notawareoftheprejudicestheyhadtoencounter,thesystemtheyadopteddisplayedmorebenevolenceofheartthansoundnessofjudgment.Astothecharge,stillbelieved,oftheirgivingtheKingdrugstoinjurehisfaculties,itistooabsurdtoberefuted.Theiroppressorshadbetterhaveaccusedthemofdabblingintheblackart,forthepotentspellstillkeepshiswitsinbondage.
  IcannotdescribetoyoutheeffectithadonmetoseethispuppetofamonarchmovedbythestringswhichCountBernstorffholdsfast;
  sit,withvacanteye,erect,receivingthehomageofcourtierswhomockhimwithashowofrespect.Heis,infact,merelyamachineofstate,tosubscribethenameofakingtotheactsoftheGovernment,which,toavoiddanger,havenovalueunlesscountersignedbythePrinceRoyal;forheisallowedtobeabsolutelyaimidiot,exceptingthatnowandthenanobservationortrickescapeshim,whichlooksmorelikemadnessthanimbecility.
  Whatafarceislife.Thiseffigyofmajestyisallowedtoburndowntothesocket,whilstthehaplessMatildawashurriedintoanuntimelygrave.
  "Asfliestowantonboys,arewetothegods;
  Theykillusfortheirsport."
  Adieu!
  LETTERXIX.
  BusinesshavingobligedmetogoafewmilesoutoftownthismorningIwassurprisedatmeetingacrowdofpeopleofeverydescription,andinquiringthecauseofaservant,whospokeFrench,Iwasinformedthatamanhadbeenexecutedtwohoursbefore,andthebodyafterwardsburnt.Icouldnothelplookingwithhorroraround——thefieldslosttheirverdure——andIturnedwithdisgustfromthewell—dressedwomenwhowerereturningwiththeirchildrenfromthissight.Whataspectacleforhumanity!Theseeingsuchaflockofidlegazersplungedmeintoatrainofreflectionsontheperniciouseffectsproducedbyfalsenotionsofjustice.AndIampersuadedthattillcapitalpunishmentsareentirelyabolishedexecutionsoughttohaveeveryappearanceofhorrorgiventothem,insteadofbeing,astheyarenow,asceneofamusementforthegapingcrowd,wheresympathyisquicklyeffacedbycuriosity.
  Ihavealwaysbeenofopinionthattheallowingactorstodieinthepresenceoftheaudiencehasanimmoraltendency,buttriflingwhencomparedwiththeferocityacquiredbyviewingtherealityasashow;foritseemstomethatinallcountriesthecommonpeoplegotoexecutionstoseehowthepoorwretchplayshispart,ratherthantocommiseratehisfate,muchlesstothinkofthebreachofmoralitywhichhasbroughthimtosuchadeplorableend.
  Consequentlyexecutions,farfrombeingusefulexamplestothesurvivors,have,Iampersuaded,aquitecontraryeffect,byhardeningthehearttheyoughttoterrify.Besidesthefearofanignominiousdeath,Ibelieve,neverdeferredanyonefromthecommissionofacrime,because,incommittingit,themindisrousedtoactivityaboutpresentcircumstances.Itisagameathazard,atwhichallexpecttheturnofthedieintheirownfavour,neverreflectingonthechanceofruintillitcomes.Infact,fromwhatIsawinthefortressesofNorway,Iammoreandmoreconvincedthatthesameenergyofcharacterwhichrendersamanadaringvillainwouldhaverenderedhimusefultosociety,hadthatsocietybeenwellorganised.Whenastrongmindisnotdisciplinedbycultivationitisasenseofinjusticethatrendersitunjust.
  Executions,however,occurveryrarelyatCopenhagen;fortimidity,ratherthanclemency,palsiesalltheoperationsofthepresentGovernment.Themalefactorwhodiedthismorningwouldnot,probably,havebeenpunishedwithdeathatanyotherperiod;butanincendiaryexcitesuniversalexecration;andasthegreaterpartoftheinhabitantsarestilldistressedbythelateconflagration,anexamplewasthoughtabsolutelynecessary;though,fromwhatIcangather,thefirewasaccidental.
  Not,butthatIhaveveryseriouslybeeninformed,thatcombustiblematerialswereplacedatproperdistance,bytheemissariesofMr.
  Pitt;and,tocorroboratethefact,manypeopleinsistthattheflamesburstoutatonceindifferentpartsofthecity;notallowingthewindtohaveanyhandinit.Somuchfortheplot.
  Butthefabricatorsofplotsinallcountriesbuildtheirconjecturesonthe"baselessfabricofavision;"anditseemsevenasortofpoeticaljustice,thatwhilstthisMinisteriscrushingathomeplotsofhisownconjuringup,ontheContinent,andinthenorth,heshould,withaslittlefoundation,beaccusedofwishingtosettheworldonfire.
  Iforgottomentiontoyou,thatIwasinformed,byamanofveracity,thattwopersonscametothestaketodrinkaglassofthecriminal’sblood,asaninfallibleremedyfortheapoplexy.AndwhenIanimadvertedinthecompany,whereitwasmentioned,onsuchahorribleviolationofnature,aDanishladyreprovedmeveryseverely,askinghowIknewthatitwasnotacureforthedisease?
  adding,thateveryattemptwasjustifiableinsearchofhealth.I
  didnot,youmayimagine,enterintoanargumentwithapersontheslaveofsuchagrossprejudice.AndIalludetoitnotonlyasatraitoftheignoranceofthepeople,buttocensuretheGovernmentfornotpreventingscenesthatthrowanodiumonthehumanrace.
  EmpiricismisnotpeculiartoDenmark;andIknownowayofrootingitout,thoughitbearemnantofexplodedwitchcraft,tilltheacquiringageneralknowledgeofthecomponentpartsofthehumanframebecomesapartofpubliceducation.
  Sincethefire,theinhabitantshavebeenveryassiduouslyemployedinsearchingforpropertysecretedduringtheconfusion;anditisastonishinghowmanypeople,formerlytermedreputable,hadavailedthemselvesofthecommoncalamitytopurloinwhattheflamesspared.
  Others,expertatmakingadistinctionwithoutadifference,concealedwhattheyfound,nottroublingthemselvestoinquirefortheowners,thoughtheyscrupledtosearchforplunderanywhere,butamongsttheruins.
  Tobehonesterthanthelawsrequireisbymostpeoplethoughtaworkofsupererogation;andtoslipthroughthegrateofthelawhaseverexercisedtheabilitiesofadventurers,whowishtogetrichtheshortestway.Knaverywithoutpersonaldangerisanartbroughttogreatperfectionbythestatesmanandswindler;andmeanerknavesarenottardyinfollowingtheirfootsteps.
  Itmovesmygalltodiscoversomeofthecommercialfraudspractisedduringthepresentwar.Inshort,underwhateverpointofviewI
  considersociety,itappearstomethatanadorationofpropertyistherootofallevil.Hereitdoesnotrenderthepeopleenterprising,asinAmerica,butthriftyandcautious.Inever,therefore,wasinacapitalwheretherewassolittleappearanceofactiveindustry;andasforgaiety,IlookedinvainforthesprightlygaitoftheNorwegians,whoineveryrespectappeartometohavegotthestartofthem.ThisdifferenceIattributetotheirhavingmoreliberty——alibertywhichtheythinktheirrightbyinheritance,whilsttheDanes,whentheyboastoftheirnegativehappiness,alwaysmentionitastheboonofthePrinceRoyal,underthesuperintendingwisdomofCountBernstorff.Vassalageisneverthelessceasingthroughoutthekingdom,andwithitwillpassawaythatsordidavaricewhicheverymodificationofslaveryiscalculatedtoproduce.