Upononepointthereseemstobenoquestion:thatthefeastwassometimesfurnishedfromwithintheclan。Intimesofscarcity,allwhowerenotprotectedbytheirfamilyconnections-intheHighlandexpression,allthecommonsoftheclan-hadcausetotremble。Itwasvaintoresist,itwasuselesstoflee。Theywerebegirtuponallhandsbycannibals;andtheovenwasreadytosmokeforthemabroadinthecountryoftheirfoes,orathomeinthevalleyoftheirfathers。
  Atacertaincorneroftheroadourscholar-guidestruckofftohisleftintothetwilightoftheforest。Wewerenowononeoftheancientnativeroads,plungedinahighvaultofwood,andclambering,itseemed,atrandomoverbouldersanddeadtrees;buttheladwoundinandoutandupanddownwithoutacheck,forthesepathsaretothenativesasmarkedastheking’shighwayistous;
  insomuchthat,inthedaysoftheman-hunt,itwastheirlabourrathertoblockanddefacethantoimprovethem。Inthecryptofthewoodtheairwasclammyandhotandcold;overhead,upontheleaves,thetropicalrainuproariouslypoured,butonlyhereandthere,asthroughholesinaleakyroof,asingledropwouldfall,andmakeaspotuponmymackintosh。Presentlythehugetrunkofabanyanhoveinsight,standinguponwhatseemedtheruinsofanancientfort;andourguide,haltingandholdingforthhisarm,announcedthatwehadreachedthePAEPAETAPU。
  PAEPAEsignifiesafloororplatformsuchasanativehouseisbuilton;andevensuchapaepae-apaepaehae-maybecalledapaepaetapuinalessersensewhenitisdesertedandbecomesthehauntofspirits;butthepublichighplace,suchasIwasnowtreading,wasathingonagreatscale。Asfarasmyeyescouldpiercethroughthedarkundergrowth,theflooroftheforestwasallpaved。Threetiersofterraceranontheslopeofthehill;infront,acrumblingparapetcontainedthemainarena;andthepavementofthatwaspiercedandparcelledoutwithseveralwellsandsmallenclosures。Notraceremainedofanysuperstructure,andtheschemeoftheamphitheatrewasdifficulttoseize。IvisitedanotherinHiva-oa,smallerbutmoreperfect,whereitwaseasytofollowrowsofbenches,andtodistinguishisolatedseatsofhonourforeminentpersons;andwhere,ontheupperplatform,asinglejoistofthetempleordead-housestillremained,itsuprightsrichlycarved。Intheolddaysthehighplacewassedulouslytended。Notreeexceptthesacredbanyanwassufferedtoencroachuponitsgrades,nodeadleaftorotuponthepavement。Thestonesweresmoothlyset,andIamtoldtheywerekeptbrightwithoil。
  Onallsidestheguardianslayencampedintheirsubsidiaryhutstowatchandcleanseit。Nootherfootofmanwassufferedtodrawnear;onlythepriest,inthedaysofhisrunning,cametheretosleep-perhapstodreamofhisungodlyerrand;but,inthetimeofthefeast,theclantroopedtothehighplaceinabody,andeachhadhisappointedseat。Therewereplacesforthechiefs,thedrummers,thedancers,thewomen,andthepriests。Thedrums-
  perhapstwentystrong,andsomeofthemtwelvefeethigh-
  continuouslythrobbedintime。Intimethesingerskeptuptheirlong-drawn,lugubrious,ululatingsong;intime,too,thedancers,trickedoutinsingularfinery,stepped,leaped,swayed,andgesticulated-theirplumedfingersflutteringintheairlikebutterflies。Thesenseoftime,inalltheseoceanraces,isextremelyperfect;andIconceiveinsuchafestivalthatalmosteverysoundandmovementfellinone。Somuchthemoreunanimouslymusthavegrowntheagitationofthefeasters;somuchthemorewildmusthavebeenthescenetoanyEuropeanwhocouldhavebeheldthemthere,inthestrongsunandthestrongshadowofthebanyan,rubbedwithsaffrontothrowinamorehighreliefthearabesqueofthetattoo;thewomenbleachedbydaysofconfinementtoacomplexionalmostEuropean;thechiefscrownedwithsilverplumesofoldmen’sbeardsandgirtwithkirtlesofthehairofdeadwomen。Allmannerofislandfoodwasmeanwhilespreadforthewomenandthecommons;and,forthosewhowereprivilegedtoeatofit,therewerecarrieduptothedead-housethebasketsoflong-
  pig。Itistoldthatthefeastswerelongkeptup;thepeoplecamefromthembrutishlyexhaustedwithdebauchery,andthechiefsheavywiththeirbeastlyfood。Therearecertainsentimentswhichwecallemphaticallyhuman-denyingthehonourofthatnametothosewholackthem。Insuchfeasts-particularlywherethevictimhasbeenslainathome,andmenbanquetedonthepoorclayofacomradewithwhomtheyhadplayedininfancy,orawomanwhosefavourstheyhadshared-thewholebodyofthesesentimentsisoutraged。Toconsiderittoocloselyistounderstand,ifnottoexcuse,thefervoursofself-righteousoldship-captains,whowouldmantheirguns,andopenfireinpassing,onacannibalisland。
  Andyetitwasstrange。There,uponthespot,asIstoodunderthehigh,drippingvaultoftheforest,withtheyoungpriestontheonehand,inhiskiltedgown,andthebright-eyedMarquesanschoolboyontheother,thewholebusinessappearedinfinitelydistant,andfalleninthecoldperspectiveanddrylightofhistory。Thebearingofthepriest,perhaps,affectedme。Hesmiled;hejestedwiththeboy,theheirbothofthesefeastersandtheirmeat;heclappedhishands,andgavemeastaveofoneoftheold,ill-omenedchoruses。Centuriesmighthavecomeandgonesincethisslimytheatrewaslastinoperation;andIbeheldtheplacewithnomoreemotionthanImighthavefeltinvisitingStonehenge。
  InHiva-oa,asIbegantoappreciatethatthethingwasstilllivingandlatentaboutmyfootsteps,andthatitwasstillwithintheboundsofpossibilitythatImighthearthecryofthetrappedvictim,myhistoricattitudeentirelyfailed,andIwassensibleofsomerepugnanceforthenatives。Buthere,too,thepriestsmaintainedtheirjocularattitude:rallyingthecannibalsasuponaneccentricityratherabsurdthanhorrible;seeking,Ishouldsay,toshamethemfromthepracticebygood-naturedridicule,asweshameachildfromstealingsugar。WemayhererecognisethetemperateandsagaciousmindofBishopDordillon。
  CHAPTERXII-THESTORYOFAPLANTATION
  TAAHAUKU,onthesouth-westerlycoastoftheislandofHiva-oa-
  Tahuku,saytheslovenlywhites-maybecalledtheportofAtuona。
  Itisanarrowandsmallanchorage,setbetweenlowcliffypoints,andopeningaboveuponawoodyvalley:alittleFrenchfort,nowdisusedanddeserted,overhangsthevalleyandtheinlet。Atuonaitself,attheheadofthenextbay,isframedinatheatreofmountains,whichdominatethemoreimmediatesettlingofTaahaukuandgivethesalientcharacterofthescene。Theyarereckonedatnohigherthanfourthousandfeet;butTahitiwitheightthousand,andHawaiiwithfifteen,canoffernosuchpictureofabrupt,melancholyalps。Inthemorning,whenthesunfallsdirectlyontheirfront,theystandlikeavastwall:greentothesummit,ifbyanychancethesummitshouldbeclear-water-courseshereandtheredelineatedontheirface,asnarrowascracks。Towardsafternoon,thelightfallsmoreobliquely,andthesculptureoftherangecomesinrelief,hugegorgessinkingintoshadow,huge,tortuousbuttressesstandingedgedwithsun。Atallhoursofthedaytheystriketheeyewithsomenewbeauty,andthemindwiththesamemenacinggloom。
  Themountains,dividinganddeflectingtheendlessairydelugeoftheTrade,aredoubtlessanswerablefortheclimate。Astrongdraughtofwindblewdayandnightovertheanchorage。Dayandnightthesamefantasticandattenuatedcloudsfledacrosstheheavens,thesameduskycapofrainandvapourfellandroseonthemountain。Theland-breezescameverystrongandchill,andthesea,liketheair,wasinperpetualbustle。Theswellcrowdedintothenarrowanchoragelikesheepintoafold;brokeallalongbothsides,highontheone,lowontheother;keptacertainblowholesoundingandsmokinglikeacannon;andspentitselfatlastuponthebeach。
  OnthesideawayfromAtuona,theshelteringpromontorywasanurseryofcoco-trees。Someweremereinfants,nonehadattainedtoanysize,nonehadyetbeguntoshootskywardwiththatwhip-
  likeshaftofthematurepalm。Intheyoungtreesthecolouralterswiththeageandgrowth。Nowallisofagrass-likehue,infinitelydainty;nexttheribgrowsgolden,thefrondsremaininggreenasferns;andthen,asthetrunkcontinuestomountandtoassumeitsfinalhueofgrey,thefansputonmanlierandmoredecideddepthsofverdure,standoutdarkuponthedistance,glistenagainstthesun,andflashlikesilverfountainsintheassaultofthewind。InthisyoungwoodofTaahauku,allthesehuesandcombinationswereexampledandrepeatedbythescore。Thetreesgrewpleasantlyspaceduponahillysward,hereandthereinterspersedwitharackfordryingcopra,oratumble-downhutforstoringit。EveryhereandtherethestrollerhadaglimpseoftheCASCOtossinginthenarrowanchoragebelow;andbeyondhehadeverbeforehimthedarkamphitheatreoftheAtuonamountainsandthecliffybluffthatclosesittoseaward。Thetrade-windmovinginthefansmadeaceaselessnoiseofsummerrain;andfromtimetotime,withthesoundofasuddenanddistantdrum-beat,thesurfwouldburstinasea-cave。
  Attheupperendoftheinlet,itslow,cliffyliningsinks,atbothsides,intoabeach。Acoprawarehousestandsintheshadowoftheshoresidetrees,flittedaboutforeverbyaclanofdwarfishswallows;andalineofrailsonahighwoodenstagingbendsbackintothemouthofthevalley。Walkingonthis,thenew-
  landedtravellerbecomesawareofabroadfresh-waterlagoononearmofwhichhecrosses,andbeyond,ofagroveofnoblepalms,shelteringthehouseofthetrader,Mr。Keane。Overhead,thecocosjoininacontinuousandloftyroof;blackbirdsareheardlustilysinging;theislandcockspringshisjubilantrattleandairshisgoldenplumage;cow-bellssoundfarandnearinthegrove;andwhenyousitinthebroadverandah,lulledbythissymphony,youmaysaytoyourself,ifyouareable:’BetterfiftyyearsofEurope……’
  Fartheron,thefloorofthevalleyisflatandgreen,anddottedhereandtherewithstriplingcoco-palms。Throughthemidst,withmanychangesofmusic,therivertrotsandbrawls;andalongitscourse,whereweshouldlookforwillows,puraosgrowinclusters,andmakeshadowypoolsafteranangler’sheart。Avalemorerichandpeaceful,sweeterair,asweetervoiceofruralsounds,Ihavefoundnowhere。Onecircumstancealonemightstriketheexperienced:hereisaconvenientbeach,deepsoil,goodwater,andyetnowhereanypaepaes,nowhereanytraceofislandhabitation。
  Itisbutafewyearssincethisvalleywasaplacechokedwithjungle,thedebatablelandandbattle-groundofcannibals。Twoclanslaidclaimtoit-neithercouldsubstantiatetheclaim,andtheroadslaydesert,orwereonlyvisitedbymeninarms。Itisforthisveryreasonthatitwearsnowsosmilinganappearance:
  cleared,planted,builtupon,suppliedwithrailways,boat-houses,andbath-houses。For,beingnoman’sland,itwasthemorereadilycededtoastranger。ThestrangerwasCaptainJohnHart:ImaHati,’Broken-arm,’thenativescallhim,becausewhenhefirstvisitedtheislandshisarmwasinasling。CaptainHart,amanofEnglishbirth,butanAmericansubject,hadconceivedtheideaofcottoncultureintheMarquesasduringtheAmericanWar,andwasatfirstrewardedwithsuccess。HisplantationatAnahowashighlyproductive;islandcottonfetchedahighprice,andthenativesusedtodebatewhichwasthestrongerpower,ImaHatiortheFrench:decidinginfavourofthecaptain,because,thoughtheFrenchhadthemostships,hehadthemoremoney。
  HemarkedTaahaukuforasuitablesite,acquiredit,andofferedthesuperintendencetoMr。RobertStewart,aFifeshireman,alreadysometimeintheislands,whohadjustbeenruinedbyawaronTauata。Mr。Stewartwassomewhataversetotheadventure,havingsomeacquaintancewithAtuonaanditsnotoriouschieftain,Moipu。
  Hehadoncelandedthere,hetoldme,aboutdusk,andfoundtheremainsofamanandwomanpartlyeaten。Onhisstartingandsickeningatthesight,oneofMoipu’syoungmenpickedupahumanfoot,andprovocativelystaringatthestranger,grinnedandnibbledattheheel。NoneneedbesurprisedifMr。Stewartfledincontinentlytothebush,laythereallnightinagreathorrorofmind,andgotofftoseaagainbydaylightonthemorrow。’Itwasalwaysabadplace,Atuona,’commentedMr。Stewart,inhishomelyFifeshirevoice。Inspiteofthisdireintroduction,heacceptedthecaptain’soffer,waslandedatTaahaukuwiththreeChinamen,andproceededtoclearthejungle。
  Warwaspursuedatthattime,almostwithoutinterval,betweenthemenofAtuonaandthemenofHaamau;andoneday,fromtheoppositesidesofthevalley,battle-orIshouldrathersaythenoiseofbattle-ragedalltheafternoon:theshotsandinsultsoftheopposingclanspassingfromhilltohillovertheheadsofMr。
  StewartandhisChinamen。Therewasnogenuinefighting;itwaslikeabickerofschoolboys,onlysomefoolhadgiventhechildrenguns。Onemandiedofhisexertionsinrunning,theonlycasualty。