Thenightfelllovelyintheextreme。Afterthemoonwentdown,theheavenwasathingtowonderatforstars。AndasIlayinthecockpitandlookeduponthesteersmanIwashauntedbyEmerson’sverses:
’AndtheloneseamanallthenightSailsastonishedamongstars。’
Bythisglitteringandimperfectbrightness,aboutfourbellsinthefirstwatchwemadeourthirdatoll,Raraka。Thelowlineoftheislelaystraightalongthesky;sothatIwasatfirstremindedofatowpath,andweseemedtobemountingsomeengineeredandnavigablestream。Presentlyaredstarappeared,abouttheheightandbrightnessofadangersignal,andwiththatmysimilewaschanged;weseemedrathertoskirttheembankmentofarailway,andtheeyebegantolookinstinctivelyforthetelegraph-posts,andtheeartoexpectthecomingofatrain。Hereandthere,butrarely,fainttree-topsbrokethelevel。Andthesoundofthesurfaccompaniedus,nowinadrowsymonotone,nowwithamenacingswing。
Theislelaynearlyeastandwest,barringouradvanceonFakarava。
Wemust,therefore,hugthecoastuntilwegainedthewesternend,where,throughapassageeightmileswide,wemightsailsouthwardbetweenRarakaandthenextisle,Kauehi。Wehadthewindfree,alightishair;butcloudsofaninkyblacknesswerebeginningtoarise,andattimesitlightened-withoutthunder。Something,I
knownotwhat,continuallysetusupupontheisland。Welaymoreandmoretothenor’ard;andyouwouldhavethoughttheshorecopiedourmanoeuvreandoutsailedus。OnceandtwiceRarakaheadedusagain-again,intheseafashion,thequiteinnocentsteersmanwasabused-andagaintheCASCOkeptaway。HadIbeencalledon,withnomorelightthanthatofourexperience,todrawtheconfigurationofthatisland,Ishouldhaveshownaseriesofbow-
windowpromontories,eachoverlappingtheothertothenor’ard,andthetrendofthelandfromthesouth-easttothenorth-west,andbehold,onthechartitlayneareastandwestinastraightline。
Wehadbutjustrepeatedourmanoeuvreandkeptaway-fornotmorethanfiveminutestherailwayembankmenthadbeenlosttoviewandthesurftohearing-whenIwasawareoflandagain,notonlyontheweatherbow,butdeadahead。Iplayedthepartofthejudiciouslandsman,holdingmypeacetillthelastmoment;andpresentlymymarinersperceiveditforthemselves。
’Landahead!’saidthesteersman。
’ByGod,it’sKauehi!’criedthemate。
Andsoitwas。AndwiththatIbegantobesorryforcartographers。Wewerescarcedoingthreeandahalf;andtheyaskedmetobelievethatinfiveminuteswehaddroppedanisland,passedeightmilesofopenwater,andrunalmosthighanddryuponthenext。Butmycaptainwasmoresorryforhimselftobeafloatinsuchalabyrinth;laidtheCASCOto,withtheloglineupanddown,andsatonthesternrailandwatchedittillthemorning。HehadenoughofnightinthePaumotus。
Bydaylightonthe9thwebegantoskirtKauehi,andhadnowanopportunitytoseenearathandthegeographyofatolls。Hereandthere,whereitwashigh,thefarthersideloomedup;hereandtherethenearsidedippedentirelyandshowedabroadpathofwaterintothelagoon;hereandtherebothsideswereequallyabased,andwecouldlookrightthroughthediscontinuousringtotheseahorizononthesouth。Conceive,onavastscale,thesubmergedhoopoftheduck-hunter,trimmedwithgreenrushestoconcealhishead-waterwithin,waterwithout-youhavetheimageoftheperfectatoll。Conceiveonethathasbeenpartlypluckedofitsrushfringe;youhavetheatollofKauehi。Andforeithershoreofitatcloserquarters,conceivethelineofsomeoldRomanhighwaytraversingawetmorass,andheresunkoutofviewandtherere-arising,crownedwithagreentuftofthicket;onlyinsteadofthestagnantwatersofamarsh,theliveoceannowboiledagainst,nowburiedthefrailbarrier。Lastnight’simpressioninthedarkwasthusconfirmedbyday,andnotcorrected。Wesailedindeedbyamerecausewayinthesea,ofnature’shandiwork,yetofnogreatermagnitudethanmanyoftheworksofman。
Theislewasuninhabited;itwasallgreenbrushandwhitesand,setintranscendentlybluewater;eventhecoco-palmswererare,thoughsomeofthesecompletedthebrightharmonyofcolourbyhangingoutafanofgoldenyellow。Forlongtherewasnosignoflifebeyondthevegetable,andnosoundbutthecontinuousgrumbleofthesurf。Insilenceanddesertionthesefairshoresslippedpast,andweresubmergedandroseagainwithclumpsofthicketfromthesea。Andthenabirdortwoappeared,hoveringandcrying;
swiftlythesebecamemorenumerous,andpresently,lookingahead,wewereawareofavasteffervescenceofwingedlife。Inthisplacetheannularislewasmostlyunderwater,carryinghereandthereonitssubmergedlineawoodedislet。Overoneofthesethebirdshungandflewwithanincredibledensitylikethatofgnatsorhivingbees;themassflashedwhiteandblack,andheavedandquivered,andthescreamingofthecreaturesroseoverthevoiceofthesurfinashrillclatteringwhirr。Asyoudescendsomeinlandvalleyanotdissimilarsoundannouncesthenearnessofamillandpouringriver。Somestragglers,asIsaid,cametomeetourapproach;afewstillhungabouttheshipaswedeparted。Thecryingdiedaway,thelastpairofwingswasleftbehind,andoncemorethelowshoresofKauehistreamedpastoureyesinsilencelikeapicture。Isupposedatthetimethatthebirdslived,likeantsorcitizens,concentredwherewesawthem。IhavebeentoldsinceIknownotifcorrectlythatthewholeisle,ormuchofit,issimilarlypeopled;andthattheeffervescenceatasinglespotwouldbethemarkofaboat’screwofegg-huntersfromoneoftheneighbouringinhabitedatolls。SothathereatKauehi,asthedaybeforeatTaiaro,theCASCOsailedbyunderthefireofunsuspectedeyes。Andonethingissurelytrue,thatevenontheseribbonsoflandanarmymightliehidandnopassingmarinerdivineitspresence。
CHAPTERII-FAKARAVA:ANATOLLATHAND
BYalittlebeforenoonwewererunningdownthecoastofourdestination,Fakarava:theairverylight,theseanearsmooth;
thoughstillwewereaccompaniedbyacontinuousmurmurfromthebeach,likethesoundofadistanttrain。Theisleisofahugelongitude,theenclosedlagoonthirtymilesbytenortwelve,andthecoraltow-path,whichtheycalltheland,someeightyorninetymilesbypossiblyonefurlong。Thatpartbywhichwesailedwasallraised;theunderwoodexcellentlygreen,thetoppingwoodofcoco-palmscontinuous-amark,ifIhadknownit,ofman’sintervention。Foroncemore,andoncemoreunconsciously,wewerewithinhailoffellow-creatures,andthatvacantbeachwasbutapistol-shotfromthecapitalcityofthearchipelago。Butthelifeofanatoll,unlessitbeenclosed,passeswhollyontheshoresofthelagoon;itistherethevillagesareseated,therethecanoesplyandaredrawnup;andthebeachoftheoceanisaplaceaccursedanddeserted,thefitsceneonlyforwizardryandshipwreck,andinthenativebeliefahauntinggroundofmurderousspectres。
Byandbywemightperceiveabreachinthelowbarrier;thewoodsceased;aglitteringpointranintothesea,tippedwithanemeraldshoalthemarkofentrance。Aswedrewnearwemetalittlerunofsea-theprivateseaofthelagoonhavingthereitsoriginandend,andhere,inthejawsofthegateway,tryingvainconclusionswiththemoremajesticheaveofthePacific。TheCASCOscarceavowedashock;buttherearetimesandcircumstanceswhentheseharbourmouthsofinlandbasinsvomitfloods,deflecting,burying,anddismastingships。For,conceivealagoonperfectlysealedbutintheonepoint,andthatofmerelynavigablewidth;conceivethetideandwindtohaveheapedforhourstogetherinthatcoralfoldasuperfluityofwaters,andthetidetochangeandthewindfall-
theopensluiceofsomegreatreservoirsathomewillgiveanimageoftheunstemmableeffluxion。
Wewerescarcewellheadedforthepassbeforeallheadswerecranedovertherail。Forthewater,shoalingunderourboard,becamechangedinamomenttosurprisinghuesofblueandgrey;andinitstransparencythecoralbranchedandblossomed,andthefishoftheinlandseacruisedvisiblybelowus,stainedandstriped,andevenbeakedlikeparrots。Ihavepaidinmytimetoviewmanycuriosities;neveronesocuriousasthatfirstsightovertheship’srailinthelagoonofFakarava。Butletnotthereaderbedeceivedwithhope。Ihavesinceentered,Isuppose,somedozenatollsindifferentpartsofthePacific,andtheexperiencehasneverbeenrepeated。Thatexquisitehueandtransparencyofsubmarineday,andtheseshoalsofrainbowfish,havenotenrapturedmeagain。
Beforewecouldraiseoureyesfromthatengagingspectacletheschoonerhadslippedbetwixtthepierheadsofthereef,andwasalreadyquitecommittedtotheseawithin。Thecontainingshoresaresolittleerected,andthelagoonitselfissogreat,that,forthemorepart,itseemedtoextendwithoutachecktothehorizon。
Hereandthere,indeed,wherethereefcarriedaninlet,likeasignet-ringuponafinger,therewouldbeapencillingofpalms;
hereandthere,thegreenwallofwoodransolidforalengthofmiles;andontheporthand,underthehighestgroveoftrees,afewhousessparkledwhite-Rotoava,themetropolitansettlementofthePaumotus。Hitherwebeatinthreetacks,andcametoananchorcloseinshore,inthefirstsmoothwatersincewehadleftSanFrancisco,fivefathomsdeep,whereamanmightlookoverboardalldayatthevanishingcable,thecoralpatches,andthemany-
colouredfish。
FakaravawaschosentobetheseatofGovernmentfromnauticalconsiderationsonly。Itiseccentricallysituate;theproductions,evenforalowisland,poor;thepopulationneithermanynor-forLowIslanders-industrious。Butthelagoonhastwogoodpassages,onetoleeward,onetowindward,sothatinallstatesofthewinditcanbeleftandentered,andthisadvantage,foragovernmentofscatteredislands,wasdecisive。Apierofcoral,landing-stairs,aharbourlightuponastaffandpillar,andtwospaciousGovernmentbungalowsinahandsomefence,givetothenorthernendofRotoavaagreatairofconsequence。Thisisconfirmedontheonehandbyanemptyprison,ontheotherbyagendarmeriepastedoverwithhand-billsinTahitian,land-lawnoticesfromPapeete,andrepublicansentimentsfromParis,signedalittleafterdate
’JulesGrevy,PERIHIDENTE。’QuiteatthefarendabelfriedCatholicchapelconcludesthetown;andbetween,onasmoothfloorofwhitecoralsandandunderthebreezycanopyofcoco-palms,thehousesofthenativesstandirregularlyscattered,nowcloseonthelagoonforthesakeofthebreeze,nowbackunderthepalmsforloveofshadow。
Notasoulwastobeseen。Butforthethunderofthesurfonthefarside,itseemedyoumighthaveheardapindropanywhereaboutthatcapitalcity。Therewassomethingthrillingintheunexpectedsilence,somethingyetmoresointheunexpectedsound。Herebeforeusaseareachedtothehorizon,ripplinglikeaninlandmere;andbehold!closeatourbackanotherseaassaultedwithassiduousfurythereverseoftheposition。Atnightthelanternwasrunupandlitavacantpier。Inonehouselightswereseenandvoicesheard,wherethepopulationIwastoldsatplayingcards。Alittlebeyond,fromdeepinthedarknessofthepalm-